What means to process the garden in the spring. Compositions of folk remedies

Spring is the beginning of garden work for. Not only nature awakens, but also various insects- pests that prevent the growth and fruiting of fruit trees and shrubs. In order for pests in the summer cottage to be as small as possible, it is important not to waste time, and to carry out the processing of plants on time. How to process trees and bushes spring in the garden from pests? The answer to this question will help you save not only the plant, but also its fruits.

How to treat trees and bushes in the spring in the garden from pests?

Processing trees and shrubs - what to use?

With the onset of heat and with the snow melting, you can proceed to the spring inspection of fruit trees and shrubs, with a view to their further processing. First of all, it is necessary to cut off excess diseased branches and branches, clean the trunk from dead bark and lichen present on it. Cleaned areas should be processed garden pitch or others by special means.

  • Whitewashing plants. Usually, a solution of slaked lime is used for whitewashing, which is applied in two layers to enhance the effect. Currently, products for whitewashing trees and shrubs containing copper sulfate and PVA glue have appeared on sale. This composition is more stable than mortar, and protects against pests and disinfects the bark.

  • Digging the soil. 3-4 days before spraying trees, you need to dig the soil around them in order to bring pests to the surface, where they will be destroyed.

  • spraying. You can start spraying all trees and shrubs from the end of March. Processing is best done in the evening.

For the treatment of trees and shrubs, various preparations are used. Of the chemicals most often used are the following types.

  • Even before the buds swell (preferably at the end of March), all the trees and bushes on the site should be sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate (100 grams are taken per bucket of water). This will help to avoid fungal diseases, the formation of mosses and lichens, black cancer, scab. Bordeaux liquid also helps well. These are the most popular and proven tools.
  • To protect grapes from spotted necrosis, anthracnose and bacterial cancer, it must be treated with an aqueous solution of iron sulfate (200 grams per bucket of water), spraying the vine and the soil under the plant. It is necessary to carry out the procedure before the swelling of the kidneys, in the period until mid-April.
  • Pears and apple trees must be treated before flowering with Iskra-M, Fufanon, Karbofos preparations. They are able to prevent the appearance of ticks, weevils, flower beetles, suckers. If the pests have already settled on the plants, then the treatment must be carried out twice. The second time - after flowering.

But often, gardeners use folk methods for processing horticultural crops. For example, to get rid of a spider mite, use an infusion onion peel. Against caterpillars and aphids - an infusion of garlic. Bred in hot water laundry soap and ash, help to cope with aphids, sucker, powdery mildew.

In order to treat trees and shrubs with high quality, they usually use a hand pump or sprayer, holding it during the procedure at a distance of 80 - 100 centimeters from the plants. From such a distance, the solution will fall on the leaves and branches in the form of small drops. When spraying, for self-protection against pesticides, you should use a respirator (or gauze bandage), goggles, a hat and gloves. Spraying of trees is carried out from top to bottom, first the upper branches, and then the lower ones. After the branches, the trunk and the area under the tree are treated.

So, now you know how to process trees and bushes spring in the garden from pests? But it must be remembered that processing should be done only with a newly prepared preparation.

See also video:

Spraying trees and shrubs in spring

The day is getting longer, the sun is getting warmer. Spring is coming - it's time for the most intensive work in the garden. People say: if you don’t make it in spring, you won’t burst in winter. And that's right. Begin spring work with horticultural technology.

Spring agrotechnical events

spring agrotechnical measures in the garden, we begin with preparation for the processing of fruit crops from diseases and pests:

  • On young seedlings, we remove heaters and process them from possible pests. We dry. Store in a dry place until autumn.
  • On fruit-bearing crops, we remove the trapping belts and burn them.
  • When a stable temperature of -5 ..-7ºС sets in, we trim the crown, clean the trunk and skeletal branches from the old lagged bark that served as " winter quarters» for pests. We process saw cuts and cuts with var, special formulations or simply disinfect with 5% copper sulphate and paint over with oil paint.
  • The April sun is bright. You need to hide stems and skeletal branches of trees from him, put whitewash and paints in a spring outfit, and at the same time destroy some of the pests.
  • Adult pests (weevils, fruit sawflies) can simply be shaken off the tree. The technology for this procedure is simple, but up to 60-80% of pests that overwintered during adult form, will be destroyed. The procedure must be carried out at a temperature not higher than + 7 ... + 8ºС, early morning in cloudy weather, so that the beetles, numb from the cold, did not fly away. Remove all protruding weeds under the crown. Lay out the film evenly. Use a long pole to shake the branches. Overwintered pests will sprinkle from the crown of the tree. It remains to carefully roll up the film with beetles to take out and burn the pests.

Processing of trunks and skeletal branches of fruit crops

Before processing the wood, lay a film under it. Inspect the trunk and large branches again, remove the remnants of the old bark, clean the cracks, close up the hollows and wounds. The film is needed to protect the soil from pests and re-infection of plants.

The chemical industry offers ready-made compositions for whitewashing and even painting trunks and main shoots of adult plants. The most popular dye for whitewashing - acrylic paint. On sale there are water-based and water-dispersion dyes marked "for garden trees." They stay on the bark of trees for a long time, they are not washed off by rains. Dyes contain an antiseptic, so no additional pesticides need to be added to the solution. Sometimes, if the composition is liquid, PVA glue is added to it. With a dense consistency, glue is not needed. If it is impossible to buy a ready-made whitewash solution, you can prepare it yourself.


Self-preparation of whitewash solutions

For young seedlings, the solution is prepared on a water-based or chalk-based basis. Lime can burn the tender bark of seedlings. BI-58 and copper sulfate are added to the solution as disinfectants. Other disinfectants can also be used. Glue, especially carpentry, cannot be used. It clogs the pores in the young bark, as a result of which gas exchange decreases, the trunks thicken more slowly (remain weak to maintain the crown).

Advice! To protect the young bark of seedlings from sunburn always install a support stake with south side trunk. There will be additional shadow protection.

In the garden, don't limit yourself to one whitewash a year. Whitewashing as it is washed off must be repeated.

For fruit-bearing trees, the following mixtures are prepared, with which the trunk and all skeletal branches are treated. Solutions are prepared on freshly slaked lime. It burns the eggs of many pests laid since autumn.

Blend 1.

Dilute slaked lime to a thick cream. For better adhesion to a bucket of solution, add 1-2 handfuls of clay, clerical glue (some gardeners use joiner's glue), copper sulfate and any strong-smelling pesticide BI-58, dichlorvos, etc.

Blend 2.

Prepare a solution of freshly slaked lime of a creamy density, add stationery glue, dissolved laundry soap, blue vitriol, hom fungicide (30-40 g / bucket), you can use oxychom (20 g / bucket). This composition is good for use in gardens affected by fungal diseases, mosses and lichens.

Blend 3.

In regions where nitrofen is allowed, you can add 200 g of the drug to a bucket of whitewash solution. It is effective against overwintering eggs garden pests.

Each gardener can use his own whitewash recipe. The above compositions are examples for beginners.

Whitewashing is completed by installing trapping belts from a straw bundle on the lower part of the trunk. Treat the tourniquet with any powdered pesticide (DDT, etc.), grease the bole with special anti-caterpillar garden glue and attach the trap belt to the glue track. Animals from the soil, including "household" ants, will get stuck on the adhesive track in the belt and die. During the spring, trapping belts are changed twice in 10-12 days. The old must be burned.

The measures taken will partially destroy the pests, but with the onset of the warm period, other sucking and gnawing representatives of the negative world will wake up harmful insects and beetles.

Brief description of pests

Pests of the green world can be divided into two groups according to the way they feed:

  • sucking,
  • gnawing.

In suckers, the oral apparatus is adapted for sucking the juices of the plant. In this case, the normal nutrition of the culture is disturbed and, with epiphytotic damage, leads to the death of the plant. The main sucking pests of the garden are aphids, mites, scale insects, leafhoppers, pennits, suckers and others. Adult individuals remaining from wintering in a short time, actively multiplying, form huge colonies. In the process of feeding, they secrete a sweet liquid "honeydew", which is a breeding ground for fungi, bacteria, viruses and the favorite food of ants. Eating honeydew affected by negative diseases, they spread diseases to all cultures they visit.

Gnawing pests gnaw on young vegetative (leaves, buds, young shoots, roots) and generative organs ( flower buds, flowers, ovaries). They inflict irreparable harm the emerging crop and the tree itself. In some years, pests destroy the crop by 50-100%. Often cause the death of culture. This group of pests includes caterpillars of various butterflies, barbels, click beetles, weevils, etc.

Fruit pest control methods

Pest control can be carried out in several ways:

  • Chemical, using pesticides.
  • Biological, using biopreparations made on a live bacterial and fungal basis and involving natural predators that eat adult pests, their eggs, and larvae. These include ladybugs, riders, certain types wasps and birds, including sparrows, warblers, titmouses, wagtails and others.
  • Folk decoctions, infusions, powders of appropriate anti-insecticide and anti-fungicide herbs, fruits, seeds.

General Approaches to Chemical Pest Control

It is a shame to realize, but the most common remains chemical method pest control. A solution prepared in 5-10 minutes, especially in a tank mixture, will rid the garden of pests in 2-3 sprays.

When using pesticides, you need to remember:

  • all chemicals(solutions, powders) have a high degree of risk to human health, animals and beneficial insects,
  • last processing chemicals ends a month or more before harvest,
  • considering them Negative influence on health, it is better to treat trees and shrubs with a tank mixture, after checking the preparations for compatibility. Mixtures of pesticides will reduce the number of treatments and expand the list of simultaneously destroyed pests and diseases.

When starting work with a chemical preparation, especially a new one, carefully study the recommendations and act strictly according to them. Increasing the dose of the drug in solution, untimely use will not give a positive effect, but will adversely affect the state of health and product quality.

Remember! Main condition effective protection from pests when using pesticides - this is the exact implementation of instructions and recommendations for their use.

When working with pesticides, it is always necessary to work in overalls that protect against the ingress of pesticides. After working with drugs, take a shower and change clothes.

Sucking pest control

Chemical preparations against sucking pests

  • Before bud break, fruit crops can be protected from pests by spraying with solutions of nitrofen and DNOC. Nitrafen can be replaced with Nisaran or Borneo preparations, which destroy pest eggs, and later larvae.
  • In the phase of bud swelling, before flowering and at its end, it is advisable to sprinkle the trees with 1% Bordeaux liquid or use a tank mixture of HOM and Fufanon preparations.
  • From systemic chemicals that destroy poisonous juice gastrointestinal tract sucking pests such as aphids, scale insects, false scale insects, whitefly thrips, psyllids, it is effective to use according to the recommendations of aktara, confidor, karbofos, rovikurt, benzophosphate. Karbofos and Aktellik are successfully used against ticks, including spider mites.
  • Mospilan and prestige are dual action drugs: systemic and contact. They successfully destroy eggs, larvae and adults of pests.
  • Contact preparations (require repeated spraying after rains and watering) arrivo, decis, karate, fastak, fury, cymbush, citkor, sherpa (approximately the same in chemical composition) effectively destroy not only sucking aphids, mushroom mosquitoes, thrips, whiteflies, but also gnawing pests.
  • Thunder and thunder-2 are successfully used against ants and bears.
  • Of the new preparations, sunmite is recommended against ticks and whiteflies at all phases of crop development, especially on apple trees.
  • Stirrap in the targeted destruction of the spider mite.

Biological products against sucking pests

On my own garden plot to obtain ecological products, it is better to use biological preparations. Bioinsecticides do not affect human health. Do not harm animals and beneficial insects. They can be used for pre-harvest treatments, and some (planriz) even during harvest.

Of the bioinsecticides, the most effective and often used are bowerin, fitoverm, actofit, bitoxibacillin, lepidocide, bicol (see instructions). Verticillin has a particularly fast effect on aphids and whiteflies, and bitoxibacillin and Bicol on aphids and spider mites.

Gnawing pest control

If sucking pests suck out the juices of plants, then gnawing ones physically destroy the generative and vegetative organs of plants. The group of gnawing pests is made up of bud beetles, flower beetles, leaf beetles, weevils, click beetles, barbels. All types of codling moths damage fruits, and butterflies, passing through the stage of voracious caterpillars, are able to destroy the green dress of fruit trees in a short time and significantly reduce the yield. Adults of gnawing pests hibernate in fallen fruits, leaves, cut branches and shoots, in tree hollows and cracks in the bark. Here they lay eggs, from which, with the onset of heat, larvae and caterpillars hatch, devouring the green crown of trees.

Chemical preparations against gnawing pests

  • Of the chemicals used against gnawing, the same chemicals are used as for protection against sucking pests: karbofos, benzophosphate, aktara, decis, fastak.
  • Against leafy caterpillars of the ringed silkworm, winter moth, moths, before the buds of fruit crops open, the treatment is carried out with DNOC or nitrafen. At the beginning of bud break, a suspension of gardona or (for younger individuals) eptobacterin, dendrobacillin is used.
  • To protect against flower beetles in the period from bud break to budding, a suspension of phosphamide is used, against a glass case - an emulsion of phosalone.
  • Codling moths and sawflies are effectively killed with antio emulsion. Purposefully against codling moths, you can use a suspension of Gordon, rovikurt, zolon.
  • Trichlormetafos is recommended against sawflies and mining moths.

Biological preparations against gnawing pests

Of the other drugs, bitoxibacillin, boverin verticillium, summer resident, fitoverm, lepidocide are widely used. They effectively protect fruit crops from moths, thrips, whiteflies, codling moths, scoops, flower beetles and other pests. And wide compatibility with other biological products and chemicals makes them indispensable in the manufacture of tank mixes. Biological preparations are especially convenient for multi-collection berry and horticultural crops and vegetables.

Bioinsecticides combine systemic and contact action on pests. Acting according to the neurotoxin type, they cause paralysis and death of adult sucking and gnawing individuals. The duration of action of bioinsecticides is much shorter than chemical preparations, therefore they require more frequent treatments (after 10-15 days). The purchase of drugs and the time spent on treatments are increasing, but ... health is more expensive. Main condition effective use biological products - strict adherence to instructions and recommendations on dilution and periods of use.

Folk remedies for pest control

Ways to protect fruit crops from pests with folk remedies involves the preparation of infusions, decoctions and powders of insecticide herbs and herbs with antifungal properties. It should be noted that the prepared preparations are not as harmless as it seems. They are sometimes based on such potent alkaloid compounds that eating an unwashed apple or peach can result in severe poisoning. Some gardeners offer decoctions of hemlock, black henbane, hogweed, aconite, and other poisonous herbs. Judging by the rules of application, decoctions and infusions are the same chemicals, only at a lower concentration. Using people's councils be careful.

Rules for the use of folk methods of pest control:

  • It is necessary to collect the aerial part of plants (stems, leaves, inflorescences) for the preparation of solutions at the time of the beginning or full flowering, and tubers, bulbs, roots and rhizomes - in early spring or late autumn. Dry naturally.
  • Given the toxicity of some plants, it is necessary to prepare preparations from them (dry and wet) strictly according to the prescription and store them in places inaccessible to children and animals.
  • For cooking use special dishes not used for cooking.
  • Bury residues and waste from solutions in the ground. They must be inaccessible to animals and birds.
  • Plants are treated no more than 3 times per growing season. In epiphytotic cases, the number of treatments is increased by 1-2 sprays or dustings.
  • Spraying and other treatments are carried out in the evening.
  • Stop processing plants 20-30 days before harvesting and only absolutely non-poisonous plants 5-7 days before. During flowering and harvesting, solutions are not used.

Compositions of folk remedies

For the treatment of plants from pests, several compositions can be offered:

  • To protect against spider mites, aphids work well by spraying healthy tops of potatoes and tomatoes with a decoction.
  • Against aphids, suckers, spider mites, you can prepare a solution in hot water wood ash with laundry soap.
  • Infusion of onion peel is effective against caterpillars, aphids, spider mites.
  • Pour tobacco dust or shag hot water. Daily infusion with the addition of soap is effective against aphids, codling moths, suckers, leaf-eating caterpillars, spider mites, slugs.
  • Against apple and fruit moths (the summer period of butterflies), suckers (after flowering), aphids use fumigation with tobacco dust. It is poured on small piles of slightly damp straw with garbage or heaps of waste and set on fire.
  • An infusion of burdock leaves is used against caterpillars of whites and scoops.

Now compare the proposals of other "lovers of folk solutions." For instance:

To combat caterpillars and larvae, it is proposed to spray the trees with a mixture of solutions of aconite (wrestler), leaves and hemlock inflorescences. How much do you think this folk way harmless, given that plants are among the most poisonous representatives of the plant world?

It is almost impossible to list all the recommended compositions of herbs, roots, bulbs and fruits, chemical and biochemical preparations and formulations. But after reading the article, you can make your choice of measures to protect horticultural crops from pests.

Spring has finally come and gardeners rushed to their summer cottages. Now they have a lot of work to do, including the early spring spraying of the garden. But before that, one more thing needs to be done.

Necessary tools and materials

Spray boom

Respirator

Protective glasses

Gloves

Sprayer

garden knife

show all

1 Pre-spring work in the garden

Now is the time to shake off the snow from the trees. It is wet, heavy and may well break branches. Nature wakes up after winter. Therefore, in early spring it is necessary to carry out a certain set of activities on the site.

    • Processing the garden with copper sulphate
    • Gardening in February

Carefully inspect the branches of fruit trees for pests that have overwintered on them. Now is the time to think about pruning broken and dry branches, so bring along garden pruner. You can also form a crown of trees.

But the main work is still spraying trees. As soon as the average air temperature reaches + 5 ° C, and the buds have not yet had time to bloom, it is necessary to fight diseases and feed the trees.

2 Protecting trees from spring burns and pest control

In early spring the weather is quite unstable. She can be high daytime and drop sharply at night. Under these conditions, the bark on the trees warms up unevenly. Suppose, on a warm March day, the temperature of the trunk in the sun will be 12 degrees more than on the shaded side. Lime whitewashing of the trunk helps to get rid of such a difference.

In this case, the readings will differ only within 3 or 5 degrees. Overheating of the bark followed by freezing can cause early spring burns. And they will lead to the death of the tree, especially if it is a young seedling. It is necessary to restore the whitewash if it was broken during the winter period.

When pruning garden trees in early spring, you need to get rid of damaged branches. They should not be left under a tree, because they are probably infected with: cytosporosis, scale insects, bark beetle larvae, black cancer or other pests and diseases.

Simultaneously with this work, it is required to treat existing wounds on trunks and branches. Damage is cleaned, leveled with a knife until living tissue appears, then disinfected with a 1% solution of copper sulfate, in a ratio of 10 g per 1 liter of water, and carefully cover this area with garden pitch.

3 How to spray trees in early spring

Modern industry offers gardeners a variety of various means for spraying trees at the very beginning of spring. For these purposes, apply:

  • copper sulfate;
  • mineral oil emulsion;
  • Bordeaux liquid;
  • emulsion "Preparation-30";
  • nitrofen and others.

The cheapest drug is copper sulfate. But do not look at its low cost, it is quite effective, so most gardeners prefer it. It is used for scab, fruit rot, leaf curl, black cancer, brown leaf spot and other diseases.

Mineral oil emulsions are liquid mixtures mineral oil with water and emulsifier. The composition of the emulsifier usually contains:

  • soap;
  • glue or kaolin;
  • iron or copper sulfate.

Emulsions fight pests such as aphids, scale insects, help destroy the eggs of the codling moth, suckers and other insects. They should be applied in early spring, until the buds open. In summer, at temperatures over 35℃, the emulsion can cause severe burns on the tree.

Bordeaux liquid is an opaque sky-blue solution. Gardeners have been using this liquid for more than a hundred years in the fight against garden pests. It is recommended to use it until the buds open. The mixture destroys the scab and fungal diseases trees or shrubs. It is also used as a disinfectant for fruit tree wounds. It is not recommended to store it, it must be used immediately after preparation.

The emulsion "Preparat-30" is an oil-oil emulsion of white or light gray color. It is packaged in 2-liter jars and has a shelf life of 2 years. Everything can be emulsified in spring fruit crops from wintering herds of scale insects, spider mites, leafworms, suckers, moths and other pests. And in the summer to spray the trees and ornamental shrubs from vagrants of the first and second generation of scale insects

Nitrofen is a drug against wintering stages of pests and diseases. This pasta Brown color, packaged in tin or glass jars or polymer bottles. The shelf life of nitrofen is 2 years. It behaves well as a disinfectant for wounds on fruit trees.

4 Treatment of trees with copper sulphate

Before spraying, it is first necessary to clean the trunk of lichens with a brush. When processing trees, you can use hand pump, they are sold in special stores for the garden. But it is desirable to have an automated sprayer. It is much more convenient and easier to work with. For those gardeners who already have mature trees, you need to have a garden hose that can be extended different ways. Most likely, you will have to tie it to a stick so that you can reach even the highest branches or use special telescopic rods.

It is worth worrying about your own safety. Robe, gloves, headwear and goggles. These items will protect you from getting the solution on bare areas of your body. A respirator will not allow vapors of the solution to enter the upper respiratory tract.

Before processing begins, the solution must be stirred. This is done as follows: 100 g of copper sulfate is diluted in a bucket of water. IN cold water vitriol dissolves worse. Therefore, you can dilute it at home in hot water, for example, in three-liter jar, and then pour the contents into a bucket.

The solution must be poured into the sprayer through a funnel and several layers of gauze. Content filtering is a must. This is done so that the sprayer nozzle and hose cannot become clogged with undissolved particles. Now you should pump air into the balloon, hang it on your shoulder and go.

This article describes the process of treating trees with copper sulphate. But you can use any means that you like best or have already bought. Each package contains detailed instructions how to use it.

5 How to properly spray trees

Wood processing must be carried out carefully from all sides. The jet must be directed from the edge to its central part. It is best to do this alternately with each large branch. Only in this case it is possible to achieve the maximum effect.

Don't forget to spray the soil around the tree. If last year's leaves are still on it, they will rot much faster. Also, with the help of the solution, spores of harmful fungi or the pests themselves will be destroyed. The remaining solution can be used on nearby shrubs, vines or other plants.

After you process the trees, you must carefully rinse the machine with water. To do this, pour into the sprayer clean water and drive her away. In this case, the nozzles and hoses will not be clogged with the remaining dried particles of the solution. Change your clothes and be sure to wash your hands and face with soap.

6 What is needed for spraying trees and shrubs

Also, in early spring, trees can be treated with combined means. They will help to cope with several types of pests at once, which will give you the opportunity to avoid several cycles of spraying trees and fertilize the plant at the same time. An example is urea. You can learn about this from our other materials.

In order for the spraying of trees to be carried out with high quality and to have good efficiency, it is necessary to have all necessary tools and fixtures.

In order to prevent the trees from infecting diseases and pests, gardeners spray the plants with various preparations. In this article, you will learn how to spray, when and by what means.

Despite the fact that breeders are constantly creating plants resistant to all kinds of diseases, tree care cannot be canceled. Anyway - even super resistant varieties to harmful pathogens, as a result, they are affected by various infections and voracious pests. To your garden trees gave good harvest, it is necessary to process them in a timely manner starting from the spring season.

When to do the first spraying of fruit trees in the garden in the spring?

If you do not process on time orchard by special means, best case- you will collect a minimum of fruits, and in the worst case, you will be left without a harvest at all. There is a calendar according to which gardeners recommend spraying trees and bushes.

Already in early spring, when the snow has melted, the first spraying should be done. It is desirable that there is no longer frost on the street, and the air temperature reaches + 5ºС. Usually, this period falls in mid-March. The process is carried out in the following sequence:

  • Trim garden trees
  • Clean the stem of the plant with a brush
  • Prepare treatment solution
  • Use it completely immediately, otherwise it will lose its properties
  • When you spray the branches and trunk, then give Special attention cracks in the bark
  • In hard-to-reach places, harmful microorganisms may remain, carefully process the branches

IMPORTANT: When processing plants, use protective equipment, as spray solutions contain chemicals that are harmful to human health.

Terms and schedule of spraying fruit trees in the spring from diseases, pests

Fruit trees are divided into two types:

  • stone fruits- these include: cherry, blackthorn, cherry plum, peach, apricot, dogwood, sweet cherry, plum, etc.
  • pome fruits- these include: irga, pear, quince, apple tree, etc.

In order to reap a good harvest in the summer and autumn, it is necessary to work on the cultivation of the garden in the spring before the buds open, before the flowering begins, after the flowering of the plants itself. They are carried out as follows:

  1. At the end of March - beginning of April they use iron, blue vitriol, urea, Bordeaux liquid, diesel fuel to fight, destroy insect pests that overwintered on plants, they also get rid of fungal infections with these means.
  2. Applying urea for spraying trees before they bloom ( in the middle of April), you will destroy the emerging pest larvae. From moniliosis, scab (on apple trees), powdery mildew fit: Horus, colloidal sulfur.
  3. During, after flowering in May work is underway to combat putrefactive diseases, and fixing procedures are being carried out to develop immunity. For this purpose, combined agents are used, which include insecticides, fungicides.

How to spray fruit trees in early spring before and after bud break?

  • Clean out the garden before beginning spraying work in early spring. Remove dead bark from trees and trim dry branches. Carry out the treatment of trunks with lime.
  • Treat the plants before the buds begin to swell hot water- you can spray on tree branches from a watering can or bucket.

  • blue vitriol effectively copes with a wide range of plant infections: cytosporosis, clasterosporiasis, coccomycosis, spotting, scab. It is used for early processing of horticultural crops.
  • Karbofos- means against larvae.
  • carbamide- the drug easily copes with fungal infections of fruit trees.

Spraying fruit trees in spring after flowering

As mentioned above, in order to prevent pests and putrefactive infections from infecting the fruits, plants should be sprayed after flowering. For this use:

  • colloidal sulfur
  • Neoron
  • Copper oxychloride
  • Thiovit-Jet

IMPORTANT: When preparing a spray solution, always follow the instructions - follow the proportions. If you prepare a highly concentrated mixture, you can harm the plants, and if you prepare a weak one, then the pests will not die.

Spring spray preparations for fruit trees: apples, pears, plums

So that your garden is well-groomed - do not be lazy and start processing plants in the spring, as soon as the snow melts. Do not forget to spray in April, May. To do this, stock up on the following chemicals:

  • Copper-based products- Bordeaux liquid, Copper sulfate. They are effective in the fight against fungal diseases.
  • DDT(powder) - copes well with mites, weevils, pests that feed on leaves.
  • Anabasin. This tool destroys beetles, suckers, caterpillars.
  • Carbamide. Not only does it fertilize the soil, it also defeats fungal infections and destroys insect pests.

Spraying fruit trees in spring with vitriol: breeding

The processing of the orchard with iron sulphate is carried out in March.

Recipe:

Components:

  • Iron vitriol - 300 g
  • Warm water - 10 l

Cooking:

  1. Pour vitriol into an enamel container with water
  2. Stir the mixture with a wooden stick
  3. Pour the solution into the sprayer

IMPORTANT: Do not spray branches with iron sulphate when on garden plants leaves have already appeared.

Spraying fruit trees in spring with copper sulphate: breeding

This inorganic compound used to get rid of pests, fungal infections. A 1% solution of copper sulphate will be effective for the processing process.

Recipe:

Components:

  • Copper sulfate powder - 100 g
  • Water - 10 l

Cooking:

  1. Dilute the solution in a plastic or enamel bowl
  2. Pour it into the sprayer and use immediately

Copper vitriol. Application for plant treatment

Carbamide for spraying trees in early spring: how to breed?

Urea is suitable for effective fight with scab on fruit trees, it prevents the development of fungal diseases: moniliosis, coccomycosis, etc. Carbamide also serves as an excellent top dressing for plants, promotes their growth.

Recipe:

Components:

  • Water - 10 l
  • Carbamide - 100 g

Cooking:

  1. Pour water into a plastic bucket
  2. Pour urea in there
  3. Stir the solution, urea dissolves very quickly
  4. Pour the mixture into the sprayer, treat the garden

Video: Spraying cherries, apple trees, plums in spring

Garden processing in spring

Stages of processing fruit trees from pests and insects

Chemical spraying is considered the most effective preventive measure, and is carried out in several stages:

  • The first stage - after the snow melts, before bud break (early spring spraying). Usually it is the end of March, with temperatures ranging from above 5 degrees Celsius.

During this period, tree trunks are carefully examined for the presence of insect clutches, old and exfoliated bark is removed, after which they are treated with lime-containing products. In early spring, a diesel fuel treatment method is used - after spraying, it creates an oily film, under which insect pupae and eggs die within a few hours.

It is also necessary to carry out preventive treatment with insecticides (Aktara, Alatar) with the addition of fungicides (Agrolekar, Bronex, Bordeaux mixture).

  • The second - from mid-April, after the first leaves bloom (green cone phase).

Before flowering, it is necessary to complete the second stage of processing from the codling moth. Organophosphorus agents are used, such as: Azamthiophos, Glyphosphate. as well as biological active ingredients Bacillus subtilis: strain 26 D, M-22 VIZR, IPM 215.

  • The third - after flowering is completed at the end of May.

During the flowering period, pest control is not performed, but you can protect the color from diseases and ticks that come out of hibernation immediately after it is completed. Copper sulphate and "Preparation 30 V" should be used. Biological pesticides are also suitable: Abamectin, Spinosad, Aversectin S.

  • The last treatment takes place in the fall, after the leaves have fallen to reduce the number of pests that have settled down for the winter.

During this period, spraying with substances of general action against pests and diseases is carried out so that they do not have time to hide for the winter. Use Karambid, inkstone and Fufafon.

For old, but still fruit-bearing plants, additional strengthening top dressing is carried out in July, for better formation and further ripening of fruits.

The most effective preparations for processing the garden

  • Fufafon - will protect trees from apple, plum sawfly, cherry weevil, bud mites;
  • Carbamide (urea) - from aphids, suckers, caterpillars, apple beetles, leafworm caterpillars. 50 gr. urea is diluted in 10 liters of water and sprayed on the garden after flowering. After entering the soil, urea additionally fertilizes it;
  • Copper sulphate (copper sulfate) protects against curl, coccomycosis, moniliosis, black cancer, scab, phyllosticosis, fruit rot. 100 gr. vitriol is diluted in 10 liters of water. Consumption from 2 to 5 liters. solution per tree, depending on size, per bush - up to 1.5 liters. Plant roots are prophylactically disinfected from bacterial and fungal infections by immersing them in a ready-made 3% solution for 3 minutes. Copper sulphate is a toxic substance; pouring residues into water bodies is strictly prohibited;
  • Iron vitriol destroys moss, lichen, septosporosis, cytosporosis, powdery mildew, gray rot. Additionally replenishes the lack of iron in fruit trees. Due to the high acidity, ferrous sulfate can burn the leaves, so a 3% solution is used before blooming, and in the fall after the leaves fall. The rest of the time, 1% will do;
  • "Preparation 30 V" - relieves scale insects, aphids, moths, whiteflies, red and brown fruit mites. The drug creates a film on the bark and disrupts the metabolism in the eggs and larvae of insects, leading to their death. 200 gr. diluted in 10 liters of water and sprayed before bud break and after foliage falls, taking a break once every 2 years;
  • Bordeaux mixture protects against curliness, monoliosis and scab. 150 gr. copper sulphate is bred in warm water, 200 gr. lime is quenched in a metal bowl. Then, a solution of copper sulphate, while stirring, is poured into a solution of lime.
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