How to make a sewer well. Do-it-yourself sewer well - rules and methods of device

sewer well do-it-yourself - rules and methods of device If you are building new house or decided to improve the old one, one of the main tasks will be the installation of communications that provide comfortable living. Since it is impossible without a properly designed drainage system, the question will arise - how to make a sewer well with your own hands. If you want to save money and do not plan to involve a contractor in this work, then before starting it, you should study all the norms and rules for sewerage for a private house. They are contained in SNiPs, which are quite difficult for people who are not related to the construction business to understand, so we suggest that you just read this article carefully. Rules for the construction of sewer wells Before you start doing something, you need to decide on the place for the well, its volume and depth. To do this, you need to draw at least a primitive sewerage scheme from the exit from the house to the well, which will also help you calculate required amount required materials. Sanitary requirements When choosing a place for sewer septic tank or cesspool First of all, the location of water intake points should be taken into account. And not only on their site, but also on neighboring ones. If contaminated sewage seeps into the aquifer and from there into the well, it can cause serious illness. The type of soil also matters - how permeable it is. The instruction requires compliance with the following distances between sewer and water wells: For sandy soils - at least 50 meters; With clay - at least 20 meters. Having determined the places on your site that meet these requirements, you can decide which one is more convenient to locate the structure, taking into account the distance to the house and the position of the outlet point of the internal sewer system. Technical requirements The first thing you should know is that you can not place the structure closer than three meters from the foundation of the house. The ideal distance is 8-12 meters in a straight line. But it is not always possible to withstand it: the layout and topography of the site may not allow this. In such cases, when building a sewer well with your own hands, you must observe following rules: If the length sewer pipeline very large, manholes must be installed on it. The first - at a distance of 3 to 12 meters from the outlet from the house, the next - every 15 meters. They are necessary to control the operation of the system and facilitate its cleaning if necessary. If the pipeline has turns or is connected to one common line of two or more outlets, a rotary well is installed at such nodes. It is also used as a lookout. If the terrain does not allow laying a pipe with a minimum slope, a drop well, allowing to ensure the permissible speed of movement of effluents. It is important! It should be explained why the speed at which sewage flows through pipes is so important. If it is very small, a plug may occur in the pipe, which will clog the lumen. If it is too large, then the liquid will drain quickly, not having time to entrain solid fractions with it, which again will lead to the formation of congestion. Water flows into the sewer well by gravity, which is provided by the slope of the pipe. With a diameter of 100 mm, it should be 2 cm for each running meter, if the diameter is 50 mm, the slope is one and a half times more - 3 cm per linear meter. That is, the farther the well is located from the outlet, the deeper it should be, since the entrance to it will be lower. By drawing a sewerage scheme on a scale with the correct slope of the pipeline, you will receive this mark, after which you can calculate the depth and volume of the container. For reference. The volume is calculated based on the number of people living in the house, each of whom has about 150 liters of waste per day, the type of well and the frequency of its emptying. Types of drain wells It can be accumulative or filtering. In any case, it is a working container with a closed hatch, the difference lies in the bottom device. So: Accumulative is designed to collect sewage, which, as it is filled, is pumped out by a sewage machine (ilosom) and taken out. It must be completely sealed. In the filtering liquid seeps into the lower layers of the soil, where it is gradually cleared, passing through its layers, so it is made without a bottom and is installed on a filtering layer of gravel, broken brick or rubble. It has to be pumped out less frequently. Attention! At a high level ground water the device of a filtering well without preliminary treatment of wastewater is unacceptable. There is also a more advanced design of sewer wells - a septic tank, in which stepwise cleaning takes place Wastewater, but it must be designed and installed by specialists. How to build a sewer well yourself Many private developers decide to deal with the sewerage device on their own, since this is not the most difficult task, and the cost savings are decent. Stages of work Since the average depth is 4-6 meters, it is better to dig a pit under it with an excavator to reduce labor costs and save time. The diameter of the pit must be greater than the outer diameter of the well (or its linear dimensions with a rectangular or square shape) by at least 30-40 cm. If you decide to make a storage tank from reinforced concrete rings, rubble stone or brick, the sequence of work is as follows: Digging a trench for the pipeline and digging a foundation pit; Preparation of the base by backfilling a layer of crushed stone at the bottom and ramming it; Filling the bottom with concrete; For reference. You can do it easier and lay a finished reinforced concrete slab on the bottom of the pit. Installing rings or laying brick walls. The seams between the rings are sealed with cement mortar, brick walls are also plastered with it; Input inlet device drain pipe. After its installation, the injection site is also carefully sealed; Note. The inlet pipe should protrude 5-8 cm into the well. Insulation of the outer walls with tar or a layer of greasy clay; Backfilling of soil with its compaction; Laying a floor slab with a hatch; Installation of a ventilation pipe to prevent the accumulation of explosive gases in the well, which are released during the decomposition of organic matter. It should rise above ground level by at least 60-70 cm. A filter well is built in the same way, with the only difference being that the bottom under it is not completely filled, but only under the walls so that they do not rest on the ground, but on concrete base. In addition, drainage holes are punched in the lower part of the first ring, and a backfill of rubble is made outside. In the case of brick construction, holes are left immediately in the lower rows of masonry. Plastic wells It is much easier to use ready-made containers made of durable and frost-resistant plastic. Perhaps the price of the products themselves will be higher than the cost of reinforced concrete rings, but you can save time and effort, as well as money, without calling a manipulator to install heavy and bulky structures in the pit. Plastic wells are lightweight and you can handle it yourself. They are produced in different volumes and diameters, with ready-made inlets for pipes, so you will not have any difficulties with their selection and installation. In addition to low weight and ease of installation, plastic wells have the following advantages: Absolute tightness, which will allow you not to engage in insulation work and not worry about possible leaks; Resistant to both very low and high temperatures; Resistance to aggressive environments; High strength and, as a result, durability. They will not require any repairs throughout the entire period of operation. Finishing work The finished well is completely covered with earth to prevent freezing. Only the hatch remains open. There should always be free access to it, and there should be access roads for silosos nearby. It remains only to think how to enter this necessary for comfortable life, but not a very attractive element in the landscape of the site, especially if it is located in an open place. Make it simple. Now on sale there are special decorative covers for well hatches in the form of a large boulder or a removable flower bed. Can be arranged around the hatch alpine slide or install a lightweight wood or wire frame for climbing plants. There are many options, it is enough to turn on the fantasy. Conclusion From all that has been said, we can draw an unambiguous conclusion: our comfort is in our hands, and if desired, it can be achieved without spending extra money and physical strength. If we talk specifically about the device of individual sewerage on the site, then the easiest way is to assemble it from finished products – plastic pipes, connecting elements and different kind wells.

If you are building a new house or decide to improve the old one, one of the main tasks will be the installation of communications that provide comfortable living. Since it is impossible without a properly designed drainage system, the question will arise - how to make a sewer well with your own hands.

If you want to save money and do not plan to involve a contractor in this work, then before starting it, you should study all the norms and rules for sewerage for a private house. They are contained in SNiPs, which are quite difficult for people who are not related to the construction business to understand, so we suggest that you just read this article carefully.

Rules for the construction of sewer wells

Before you start doing something, you need to decide on, its volume and depth. To do this, you will need to draw at least a primitive sewerage scheme from the exit from the house to the well, which will also help you calculate the required amount of materials required.

Sanitary requirements

When choosing a place for a sewer septic tank or cesspool, you should first consider the location of the water intake points. And not only on their site, but also on neighboring ones.

If contaminated sewage seeps into the aquifer and from there into the well, it can cause serious illness. The type of soil also matters - how permeable it is.

The instruction requires compliance with the following distances between sewer and water wells:

For sandy soils- not less than 50 meters;
With clay- not less than 20 meters.

Having determined the places on your site that meet these requirements, you can decide which one is more convenient to locate the structure, taking into account the distance to the house and the position of the outlet point of the internal sewer system.

Technical requirements

The first thing to know is that you cannot place the structure closer than three meters from the foundation of the house.

The ideal distance is 8-12 meters in a straight line. But it is not always possible to withstand it: the layout and topography of the site may not allow this.

In such cases, when building a sewer well with your own hands, you must follow the following rules:

If the length of the sewer pipeline is very large, it must be installed on it. The first - at a distance of 3 to 12 meters from the outlet from the house, the next - every 15 meters. They are necessary to control the operation of the system and facilitate its cleaning if necessary.

If the pipeline has turns or is connected into one common line of two or more outlets, it is installed at such nodes. It is also used as a lookout.

If the terrain does not allow laying a pipe with a minimum slope, a differential well is built to ensure an acceptable flow rate of effluents.

It is important! It should be explained why the speed at which sewage flows through pipes is so important. If it is very small, a plug may occur in the pipe, which will clog the lumen. If it is too large, then the liquid will drain quickly, not having time to entrain solid fractions with it, which again will lead to the formation of congestion.

Water drains by gravity, which is provided by the slope of the pipe. With a diameter of 100 mm, it should be 2 cm per linear meter, but if the diameter is 50 mm, the slope is one and a half times larger - 3 cm per linear meter.

That is, the farther the well is located from the outlet, the deeper it should be, since the entrance to it will be lower. By drawing a sewerage scheme on a scale with the correct slope of the pipeline, you will receive this mark, after which you can calculate the depth and volume of the container.

For reference. The volume is calculated based on the number of people living in the house, each of whom has about 150 liters of waste per day, the type of well and the frequency of its emptying.

Types of drain wells

It can be accumulative or filtering. In any case, it is a working container with a closed hatch, the difference lies in the bottom device.

So:

Cumulative is designed to collect sewage, which, as it is filled, is pumped out by a sewage machine (silo pump) and taken out. It must be completely sealed.
In the filter the liquid seeps into the lower layers of the soil, where it is gradually cleared, passing through its layers, so it is made without a bottom and is installed on a filter layer of gravel, broken brick or crushed stone. It has to be pumped out less frequently.

Attention! At a high level of groundwater, the device of a filtering well without preliminary treatment of wastewater is unacceptable.

There is also a more advanced design of sewer wells - a septic tank, in which stepwise wastewater treatment takes place, but it must be designed and installed by specialists.

How to build a sewer well yourself

Many private developers decide to deal with the sewage system on their own, since this is not the most difficult task, and the cost savings are decent.

Stages of work

Since the average depth is 4-6 meters, in order to reduce labor costs and save time, it is better to dig a pit under it with an excavator. The diameter of the pit should be greater than the outer diameter of the well (or its linear dimensions with a rectangular or square shape) by at least 30-40 cm.

If you decide to make a storage tank from reinforced concrete rings, rubble stone or brick, the sequence of work is as follows:

Digging a trench for the pipeline and excavation;
Preparation of the base by backfilling a layer of crushed stone at the bottom and ramming it;
Filling the bottom with concrete;

For reference. You can do it easier and lay a finished reinforced concrete slab on the bottom of the pit.

or brick walls. The seams between the rings are closed cement mortar, brick walls are plastered with it;

Inlet device for inserting a drain pipe. After its installation, the injection site is also carefully sealed;

Note. The inlet pipe should protrude 5-8 cm into the well.

Insulation of the outer walls with tar or a layer of greasy clay;
Backfilling of soil with its compaction;
Laying a floor slab with a hatch;

Installation of a ventilation pipe to prevent the accumulation of explosive gases in the well, which are released during the decomposition of organic matter. It should rise above ground level by at least 60-70 cm.

It is built in the same way, with the only difference that the bottom under it is not completely poured, but only under the walls, so that they do not rest on the ground, but on a concrete base. In addition, drainage holes are punched in the lower part of the first ring, and a backfill of rubble is made outside.
In the case of brick construction, holes are left immediately in the lower rows of masonry.

Plastic wells

It is much easier to use ready-made containers made of durable and frost-resistant plastic. Perhaps the price of the products themselves will be higher than the cost of reinforced concrete rings, but you can save time and effort, as well as money, without calling a manipulator to install heavy and bulky structures in the pit.

Plastic wells are lightweight and you can handle it yourself. They are produced in different volumes and diameters, with ready-made inlets for pipes, so you will not have any difficulties with their selection and installation.

In addition to low weight and ease of installation, plastic wells have the following advantages:

Absolute tightness, which will allow you not to engage in insulation work and not worry about possible leaks;
Resistant to both very low and high temperatures;
Resistance to aggressive environments;
High strength and, as a result, durability. They will not require any repairs throughout the entire period of operation.

Final work

The finished well is completely covered with earth to prevent freezing. Only the hatch remains open. There should always be free access to it, and there should be access roads for silosos nearby.

It remains only to think about how to fit this element, necessary for a comfortable life, but not too attractive, into the landscape of the site, especially if it is located in an open place. Make it simple.

Now on sale there are special decorative covers for well hatches in the form of a large boulder or a removable flower bed. You can arrange an alpine slide around the hatch or install a light wooden or wire frame for climbing plants. There are many options, it is enough to turn on the fantasy.

Conclusion

From all of the above, we can draw an unambiguous conclusion: our comfort is in our hands, and if desired, it can be achieved without spending extra money and physical strength. If we talk specifically about the device of an individual sewerage system on the site, then the easiest way is to assemble it from finished products - plastic pipes, connecting elements and various types of wells. How to do it right, the video in this article will tell you.

For permanent or temporary residence suburban area a source of water is required, preferably a functioning one all year round. One of the simplest and most inexpensive sources of water supply in construction is a well, which you can dig with your own hands, almost without resorting to the services of special equipment.

First, consider the basic requirements for the location of the well.

It should be as close to the house as possible, but not close to the walls.
Also important is the maximum distance from all possible sources of pollution - cesspools, landfills, etc.
In the chosen place there should not be high waters (they are found in swampy areas) that can pollute the water in the well.

Despite the mentioned low cost of building a well, certain costs and efforts are still required. Therefore, it is so important to choose the right place so that this one provides a constant water supply in the required volumes.

There are many methods for finding a place for a well - using aluminum frames, willow vine, glass jars, by observing natural phenomena or animal behavior. But one of the most effective and at the same time available ways considered the study of landscape features. We will definitely not find water (or we will find it, but in an insignificant amount) in those areas that:

have significant relief elevations;
located near wells or other water intake points;
are located on the steep bank of the reservoir;
densely planted with acacia or pine.

Note! There are also places where a well will produce poor quality water. Such places include low coastlines and dried-up swamps - the water here often contains a large number of manganese and iron.

Various depressions and depressions are our areas of search. A kind of indicators of the presence of underground aquifers are plants such as willow, lingonberry, birch, and so on. A specific place for digging should be selected where the crowns of these plants lean. Finally, if the fruits of a recently planted apple tree rot, and she herself is sick, then groundwater lies nearby, because this garden tree susceptible to moisture-saturated soil.

From the diagram below, you can get acquainted with the types of plants, as well as the depth of the corresponding groundwater.

Note! Fog can be another effective indicator. Hot summer in the evening or morning time where the water is very close to the surface, fog spreads. The density of the latter is directly related to the proximity of the aquifer. Characteristically, the observation of the fog makes it possible to calculate the place for the construction of a well with an accuracy of up to 75%.

Where does water come from?

At the bottom of the constructed well, water begins to accumulate (it comes from the aquifer, which is also called the horizon) with an area from several tens of meters to several kilometers square. The horizon, the “power” of which is sufficient to fill the well, usually lies at a depth of 4 to 20 m. If an aquifer is still not found at around 20 m, then further digging of the well is unprofitable - it is easier to equip.

Stage two. We prepare everything you need

The procedure for the construction of wells is not standardized by any state regulations and standards. The classical device was formed for more than one century, until it acquired a modern look.

To make a well with your own hands, you need to prepare:

a tripod made of metal corners or wooden poles;
winch;
rope ladder;
shovel;
scrap;
material for strengthening the mine.

As for the last point, the most promising material is concrete rings. They are strong (reinforced with steel bars ø1 cm or more), durable (service life is 50 years), frost-resistant and waterproof.

product name	Height x Wall thickness, cm	Internal diameter, cm	Weight, kg
KS-7-1	10x8	70	46
KS-7−1.5	15x8	70	68
KS-7-3	35x8	70	140
KS-7-5	50x8	70	230
KS-7-9	90x8	70	410
KS-7-10	100x8	70	457
KS-10-5	50x8	100	320
KS-10-6	60x8	100	340
KS-10-9	90x8	100	640
KS-12-10	100x8	120	1050
KS-15-6	60x9	150	900
KS-15-9	90x9	150	1350
KS-20-6	60x10	200	1550
KS-20-9	90x10	200	2300
KO-6	7x12	58	60
KS-7-6	60x10	70	250

Concrete rings can be:

wall (abbreviation - KS), which are used to equip the neck and are suitable for all types of wells;
additional - used in cases where the standard options are not suitable, because these have non-standard sizes;
Reinforced concrete rings - used for drainage and sewer wells, communication systems, gas and water pipes.

There are other types - with an overlapping slab, with a bottom, prefabricated, etc. In order to avoid displacement of the rings after installation, they are equipped with special grooves that prevent the moment of displacement.

Note! For a well in a suburban area, it is best to use wall products KS-10 or KS-15 (the numbers are inner diameter in decimetres).

After choosing a place and preparing everything necessary, we can begin construction.

Stage three. Well construction

We’ll make a reservation right away that it won’t work out alone - you need at least one more person.

We perform all actions in this sequence.

Step 1. We lay the first concrete ring in place of the future mine. The “cutter” digs the walls of the ring, as it deepens, it sinks deeper and deeper. It is advisable to use a product with pins or cone-shaped points for the first ring in order to facilitate downward movement.

Step 2. After the upper edge of the ring reaches the same level with the ground, put another one on top and continue to work. The weight of each ring is approximately 600-700 kg.

Step 3. Two people are enough to roll the ring to the place of work. But if it is possible to use a crane, then it is better not to neglect it, because with the help of such special equipment, you can more accurately lower the ring onto the seat.

If the soil is dry and strong, then you can go deep by 2-3 meters, and after that, using a crane, install several rings in a row.

Step 4 Similarly, we continue the procedure until the aquifer is reached. As practice shows, for a standard work shift (8 hours), 3 concrete rings can be laid.

Note! The proximity of the aquifer can be seen from the small springs gushing from the walls and the rapidly decreasing temperature.

After the appearance of fontanelles, we go deeper a few more meters, after which we cover the bottom with a “pillow” of rubble (it will serve as a water filter).

Step 5 The mine is pumped by drainage. The more water is pumped out of the well, the greater its debit will be.

Stage four. We protect the structure from surface water

To keep the well clean, it must be properly protected. Water should enter the shaft only from below, and therefore the walls must be reliably insulated. To do this, we firmly connect the rings to each other, resorting to one of two possible methods.

We drill the walls of the rings and fix them with metal brackets mounted on bolts.
We twist the rings with steel wire, catching it on the loading eyes. To twist the wire, we use a metal rod, for example, a crowbar.

Pay attention to the waterproofing of the seams between the rings! If water seeps through the seams, this will lead to contamination of the well. To close the joints, use a substance that will not affect the quality of the water.

We strengthen the seams according to the following scheme.

Step 1 . We put pieces of linen rope in the voids between the rings ( great material- natural and environmentally friendly).

Step 2. We cover the ropes with a solution of sand, cement and liquid glass. In this way, we will achieve reliable waterproofing, which, moreover, will be completely neutral when in contact with water.

Step 3. On top of the upper rings, we dig a pit of a meter depth.

Step 4 We waterproof the outer surface of the rings using liquid.

Step 5. We lay a thermal insulation layer around the upper rings (we can use any foamed polymer, for example, foam).

Step 6. We fill the pit around the well with clay. This is called "clay castle".

Video - Clay castle

Stage five. We equip the well

But the construction of a well is not limited to drilling a mine and its strengthening. To do this, we equip upper part designs - head.

We equip a blind area around the well - a small platform made of concrete or carefully compacted rubble. The blind area should go at least 1 m from the shaft on each side and, importantly, is built through certain time after construction is completed, when the soil settles.

We also build a canopy over the structure to prevent precipitation from entering the mine. If a pump is used to supply water, then it is better to close the shaft completely, leaving a small hole for the hose and cable.

As a conclusion. Protecting the well from frost

If the aquifer is too close to the surface, the water may freeze in winter. In such cases, a "" is built over the structure, and any available material(for example, polystyrene or mineral wool). Moreover, the water supply pipe must be introduced into the mine below the freezing level of the soil.

In the diagram below, two wells are used for the system at once - one directly for water supply, the other for supplying water to an intermediate reservoir.

Video - Construction of a well

Equipping the system of water supply and sewerage of any type can not do without sewer wells. Their equipment is provided even with, on a suburban area. The well plays a huge role in the repair and preventive work such as rinsing, pumping and cleaning. In its absence, you will not be able to identify the blockage site and eliminate the consequences.

The arrangement of all sewer systems with special designs for control, repair, maintenance or functional needs requires SNiP 2.04.03-85 “Sewerage. External networks and structures”. The regulations indicate where, how many and which wells to put.

Typical well structure:

manhole cover;
neck;
working chamber, about 1.8 m high;
the shaft, as a rule, is round, equipped with a staircase;
bottom.

When constructing a sewer well on pipes with a diameter of up to 0.3 m, the best option- a round well with a diameter of 1 m, with a working chamber diameter of at least 0.7 m.

If the pipeline diameter is more than 0.3 m, experts recommend installing rectangular reinforced concrete wells with a bottom diameter of 1 m.

When constructing a sewer well, the angle between it and the outlet and inlet connecting pipes should be no more than 90?. The angle can only be changed when installing differential wells.

If pipes of different diameters are connected to the well, then their connection should take place along the pipes.

The main types of sewer wells:

By network:

Sewage - household and industrial;
drainage;
Stormwater.

According to the material of manufacture:

From concrete;
From brick;
Polymer.

By appointment:

Variable;
Lookouts:

changing the direction of flow (rotary, nodal);
direct-flow (linear, control, washing).

At the same time, the most important and primary task of any sewer well is to monitor everything.

Also with the help of sewer wells:

it is possible to overcome the difference in its components and in the height of the outlet and inlet pipes;
remove blockages;
collect dirt accumulated in drains.

Sewer manholes

Manholes are:

linear - they are installed on straight sections of the network. They have the simplest device and do not require specific knowledge during installation. The length depends on the diameter of the pipe and is 35 - 300 m;
rotary - are built where the direction of the pipeline changes. In fact, this is a special point at which you can carry out Maintenance well. These wells are installed on all bends of the laid sewer pipe,
nodal - installed in places where the branches of the sewer system are connected;
control - are built at the points of connection of the yard, quarter, street to the central sewer scheme.

Inspection wells must be installed on straight sections at a distance of 35-300 m and under the following conditions:

changes in the size or slope of pipes;
changes in flow direction;
attachment of side branches.

Usually these wells are of the same type and are arranged as a shaft with a chamber inside, where the incoming and outgoing pipelines are connected by a special tray. They differ in the depth of the pipes.

In nodal and rotary wells, the tray is made in the form specified by SNiP. The angle of rotation should not be less than 90° and should be smoothly rounded.

The control well can often be a nodal one.

The flushing well, as a rule, is straight-through. It is installed at the beginning of the circuit, where there is a possibility of blockages.

Drop wells

Drop wells change and regulate the flow of effluents in height, and change the speed of their movement.

They need to be arranged if:

Depending on their internal structure, drop wells are divided into types of drops:

with an existing drain of a practical profile and a water well;
tubular, having a vertical pipe;
with a fender and spillway wall;
multi-stage chess, extinguishing the incident energy;
fast currents - short segments with a large slope to accelerate a slowing stream.

Drop wells with a water seal do not lower, but raise the flow level. This is achieved by a special chamber that accumulates drains. They are installed where it is possible to ingress of explosive and flammable substances.

You can install such a well in an individual sewer if you are not sure that the volume of flow will be sufficient for self-cleaning of the pipes.

Sanitary requirements for overflow wells

In accordance with SNiP 2.04.03-85 p.4.25-note: when installing a sewer system with a pipeline diameter of up to 0.6 m and a drop height of up to 0.5 m, it is not required to arrange an overflow well. With a drop height of up to 3 m and a pipeline diameter of 0.6 m, tubular drops are installed. In this case, at the beginning of the network, you need to install a flushing well.

Wells on gravity sewer and pressure pipelines better to build standard projects. All structural elements are marked, they have inscriptions: sewer wells ... series ...

As a rule, reinforced concrete structures and elements manufactured in accordance with GOST 8020-56 are used. Hatches are produced in accordance with GOST 3634-91.

In suburban construction, you can build brick wells

In this case, the depth of the tray should have a size equal to the diameter of the big pipe systems.

The wells are made from the following materials:

and prefabricated reinforced concrete;
polyethylene;
polyvinyl chloride;
fiberglass.

Until now, in accordance with SNiP, the bulk of the wells are made of reinforced concrete rings, sometimes from cubes, or.

Polymer systems that surpass them in many ways are just entering the market.

How to waterproof wells

The sewer well must be sealed to protect environment from runoff.

When constructing a well from reinforced concrete rings with your own hands, you can use various special formulations. There are special waterproofing compounds for joints.

Before applying the waterproofing composition, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work: remove loose surface, dry, clean with a brush from dirt. In places of leakage, it is necessary to make a recess in the form of a dovetail by 5 cm and lay it with a waterproofing agent.

The joints must first be moistened, then filled with the composition.

Only then can waterproofing be applied to the entire structure. It is necessary to apply 3 layers, leaving each to dry for 24 hours.

During the formation of the waterproofing layer, it is important to exclude the influence of mechanical stress and frost on the treated surface. Also during this time, the treated surface must be moistened.

Performance internal waterproofing sewer well produced 14 days.

Equipment for wells made of reinforced concrete elements

A standard well made of reinforced concrete consists of:

round or rectangular base;
rings;
ceilings with a hole for the hatch;
manhole cover.

Rings and base plates are produced absolutely flat, only with mounting loops.

In the lower ring, you need to punch holes for entry, and on the slab, arrange a tray of the required shape from concrete or cement.

Such a structure is used in all types of inspection and differential wells.

The height of the well is created by several rings - standard and additional. Before mounting each ring, the mounting loops of the lower one must be removed.

All elements of the structure are sealed with cement mortar. Thus, their waterproofing leaves much to be desired, and runoff pollutes the ground.

polymer wells

Modern wells made of plastic and mobile technology have made it possible to significantly reduce the size of wells. Today you can install plastic device small volume, up to 0.3 m in diameter.

All conveniences of human habitation are connected with three components: electricity, water and sewerage. The owners of "summer residences" - dachas, small country houses- they try to equip a seasonal home with maximum comfort. Providing it with electricity is the most simple task, almost every corner of Russia is electrified. Water supply is decided by the arrangement of wells or wells. Most complex issue- local sewerage device - also has standard solution: a do-it-yourself drain pit is being built on the site.

A drain pit in a private house or in a country house is an elementary structure designed to collect and accumulate local sewage effluents. Here by sewer pipes are transported household waste from toilets, from kitchen sinks, washing machines and dishwashers.

Any treatment facilities in anticipation of this simplest collection of sewage flows are not provided. As the pit fills, it is cleaned by pumping out the contents. Depending on the cleaning method, the accumulated sewage is removed by special machines - sewers or, after treatment with biological products, are used for watering plants and as fertilizer.

Types of drain pits

Drainage pits are classified in relation to ground level and materials of manufacture.

Relative to ground level

On this basis, collections of sewer waste are divided into two groups:

superficial;
underground.

Surface collectors of sewage

This option is only suitable for use in the warm season. It is used extremely rarely, since in this case the sewer network has to be laid on top. The required slope (from the "supplier" of wastewater - sinks, toilets, etc. - to the collector) can only be provided if all sources of wastewater are located above the inlet of the tank. It is advisable to arrange surface drain tanks in areas with high level ground water.

Underground drain pits

Underground sewage collection facilities are the most common. Depending on the number of drains, the design of the drain pit may or may not have a sealed bottom. Sanitary standards Russia pits without sealing the bottom are allowed if the daily volume of effluents does not exceed 1 m 3.

In all other cases, a sealed underground reservoir is equipped.

According to the materials of manufacture

For the construction of the construction of the drain pit, you can use the following materials:

ceramic brick;
concrete (in the manufacture of a monolithic structure);
waste tractor tires;
plastic;
wood.

For do-it-yourself drain pits, concrete rings are the most inappropriate option. Their installation requires construction machinery- cannot handle heavy items manually.

The simplest and cheap way arranging a drain pit in a private house or on suburban area- the design of its walls with the help of tires. But such a design is unreliable in terms of tightness: there is a high risk of the liquid component of sewage entering the soil.

Location - sanitary restrictions

Some homeowners believe that they can do anything on their site, and they are deeply mistaken. Sanitary Services they are not dormant - they require strict observance of the norms and rules in force in the state, regardless of the type of property.

The location of the drain pit in a private house is also strictly regulated: the standards stipulate the minimum allowable distances from the wastewater storage tank to engineering structures, residential buildings and site boundaries:

to the conduit (central) - 10 meters;
to the underground gas pipeline - 5 meters;
to drinking well: 20 meters clay soils, 30 m - on loams, 50 m - on sandstones and sandy loams;
to a residential building (own and neighboring) - 10-12 meters;
to the fence (site boundary) - 1 meter.

It is also regulated maximum depth drain pit: it should not exceed 3 m, if the groundwater level allows it. These restrictions are contained in SanPiN 42-128-4690-88 and SNiP 30-02-97.

Important: Homeowners should be aware that non-compliance sanitary requirements can threaten not only with a fine - in case of damage to the health of others, a criminal case may be initiated.

In addition, doing drain hole at the dacha with their own hands, it must be located on the site in such a way that it is possible to organize an unhindered access to it for special equipment at the time of pumping out.

Tip: Practice shows that it is better to place a drain pit at a distance of at least 15 meters from the windows of residential premises.

Construction order

The device of a drain pit in a private house with your own hands, regardless of the choice of material, is carried out according to the general algorithm:

Explosive gas is formed in sewer tanks. To take him away ventilation is arranged. Its role is played by a pipe brought out through the lid of the pit. Its dimensions are regulated by building codes: diameter - 100 mm, height - at least 600 mm from ground level.

Choosing a drain cleaning method

Before you build a drain pit in a private house, you should decide a very important question: how will you clean it. The amount of work on the improvement of the site depends on this:

if it’s easier for you to periodically invite specialists with a sewage truck, take care of organizing an access road;
if you are ready to clean it yourself, purchase a plastic container with an airtight lid and find out in advance who will take your waste. Do not forget about the means of protecting the skin of the hands and respiratory tract. It is better if it is a gas mask, but, at worst, a respirator will do. Of course, you can not do without rubber boots.

When arranging a drain hole, you need to take care not only how to dig it, but also how to clean it.

Modern technologies make it possible to significantly simplify the process of cleaning the drain pit, if it fills up quickly, or even make it practically waste-free. It's about about microscopic helpers - capable of turning drains into enough clean water and a solid fraction suitable for use as a fertilizer.

Bacteria not only decompose the contents of the drain pit, but also diligently fight against an unpleasant odor.

Just keep in mind, when deciding how to clean the drain pit in a private house, that you should choose biological products in accordance with the composition of the wastewater. Most bacteria do not survive contact with household chemicals: detergents and washing powders are detrimental to them. However, microorganisms that are resistant to aggressive environments are now being grown.

After the bacteria have worked hard, it remains for you to pump out the liquid component with the pump (it is completely harmless to humans, animals and plants) and remove the solid sediment from the pit.

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