Drain well in private. How to make a sewer well with your own hands: calculation and installation

IlonaP 3 years ago

Is it possible to equip a sewer well with your own hands? What rules are used to competently make a sewer well?

vasily

3 years ago

The storage well is designed to collect sewage. The order of its manufacture is as follows:

Well size calculation.

Select a well type.

Getting Started

Lead sewer pipes to the well. Build the walls of the well with brick, concrete, or stone. If possible, concrete rings can be installed in the pit.

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Kim Chen In

3 years ago

A sewer well is not just one thing.

There are a lot of types of sewer wells, and if you add the material for making sewer wells, then there are dozens of options.

It's not clear which well you asked about.

I think that no, in addition to the tool, knowledge and experience, calculations are needed.

Before arranging the sewerage, it is necessary to draw up a project, the project must be approved by the SES (Sanepid Station).

The distances are maintained in accordance with SNiP 2 04 03-85 (there is also SanPiN), that is (for example, this is true, we don’t know anything about your soil) the distance from the fence to the well, at least 2 meters, from the foundation of a residential building at least 15, from a well to a sewer well at least 20 (again, you need to know everything about your soil), and so on there are a lot of positions.

Sewer pipes are laid at the stage of foundation construction, if you have not done this, then you need a tool (diamond drilling rig) to drill the foundation.

Since we still do not know what kind of well we are talking about, I am describing a well that is usually called a "cesspool".

Here, be careful in the city, such structures should be completely sealed.

In rural areas, it is allowed to equip cesspools without a bottom, but I emphasize once again that you need to know everything about the soil.

In our time, rarely does anyone "strain" with the arrangement of sewer wells from reinforced concrete rings, or even more so from bricks.

It’s more convenient, faster, more durable, there are no problems with sealing and you don’t need to involve special equipment; this is the purchase of a storage septic tank (if there is a choice, I advise you to stop at a seamless one).

The container is light, it can be lowered into the pit by hand.

Determine the volume yourself, start from the number of residents, from the number of plumbing fixtures and from the intensity of the use of sewage in general (you can calculate consumption based on the readings of water meters).

Do not forget to organize the entrance of the sewer truck.

And the stages of arrangement look like this:

Pit under the septic tank.

From the foundation pit to the house there is a trench, the depth is below the freezing of the soil.

The 110th pipe is laid in the trench, the slope from the house to the septic tank, the slope is 2 cm per meter of pipe.

At the bottom of the pit there is a sand cushion, a rammer, if without special equipment, then crushed stone, a rammer, a screed in the "ears" screed.

The screed dried up, the septic tank was lowered, "anchored", backfilling, insulation.

The pipe was brought into the septic tank.

Backfilling the trench (the pipe can also be insulated, see for yourself).

The sewer must have ventilation, a vertical riser was brought out (connected through a tee).

The pipe went into the house, they scattered the 50th pipe around the house.

In general, everything, a huge number of little things, this once again emphasizes the impossibility of independent work.

This is a complex system.

vasily

3 years ago

An autonomous sewer system is made on the site if the centralized system is far away. It can be made with your own hands, without resorting to the help of builders. The simplest scheme of the sewer system consists of one storage well, where sewage merges, and pipelines through which wastewater flows. In some cases, this scheme has to be complicated.

If the distance between the storage well and the house is very large, it is necessary to equip manholes. They are installed after 15 m and are designed to clean the system.

If it is impossible to make a straight pipeline and there is a need to turn it, a rotary well is built at the turn point.

If the piping angle is too steep, a drop well will be needed.

A filter well is made if you plan to build a septic tank on the site. It should be located after preliminary water treatment in the first chambers of the septic tank.

Each of the types of wells has its own design, dimensions and is mounted according to its instructions.

Consider the manufacturing technology of a storage well for a simple sewer system with one well.

The storage well is designed to collect sewage. The order of work is as follows:

Determine the location of the well.

It is dug in the lowest place of the site. From the house, the pit should be located at a distance of at least 3 m, from a source of drinking water - at least 30 m. A road should be laid to it for the entrance of a sewage truck.

Well size calculation.

One person accounts for 150-200 liters of wastewater per day. The well should have a three-day supply of drains from the whole family. If there are 4 people in the family, the minimum volume of the pit is 3 cubic meters. Do not make the well deeper than 3 m, this will complicate its cleaning.

Select a well type.

If the groundwater in the area is close to the surface, the well is made airtight from concrete, followed by waterproofing. Another option is a pit with a dirt bottom, through which the water drains on its own.

Getting Started

Pour gravel to the bottom of the pit with a layer of at least 40 cm.

Lead sewer pipes to the well. Build the walls of the well from brick, concrete, stone. If possible, concrete rings can be installed in the pit.

Close the well with a lid with a hatch, mount the ventilation pipe. It should protrude 60 cm above the lid. Cover the lid with earth for thermal insulation, leave the hatch open.

The technology for arranging sewer wells has been worked out to the smallest detail and documented. Building codes prescribe the main series of codes that the work being carried out must comply with. In particular, SNiP has the number 2.04.03-85 and is called “Sewerage. External networks and structures”. The document regulates the placement of different types of structures, the dimensions and requirements for the structures being erected.

Regardless of the purpose, private or public use, the installation of sewer wells must be carried out according to the rules and requirements. For example, a viewing object must be placed in front of the entrance of the local sewerage system to the centralized collector, outside the red building line.

It is especially important to know that, according to SNiP, sewer manholes with pipelines up to 150 mm in size are arranged every 35 m, at 200 - after 50 m of straight-through pipeline sections. In addition, the installation of structures is indicated for:

• Rotary changes in the water runoff system;
• When changing the diameter of the pipeline or the presence of a slope;
• At the entry points of additional branches.

Documents governing the requirements: for reinforced concrete products - GOST 2080-90, for polymer structures - GOST-R No. 0260760. Manufacturers offer specifications for plastic structures, supplementing existing regulations.

Stone structures can be made of prefabricated, monolithic concrete, reinforced concrete mixtures, bricks. Filtering structures are made of rubble stone. For the manufacture of polymer structures, the use of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polypropylene (PP), polyethylene of the desired density (PE) is permissible.

Important! Models can be made of combined material.

Dimensional rulers, work on the arrangement of wells

Sewer wells according to SNiP must have the following dimensions:

• Pipelines up to 150 mm in diameter - at least 70 mm;
• Diameter up to 600 mm - from 1000 mm;
• Diameter size up to 700 mm - from 1250 mm;
• Diameter 800-100 mm - from 1500 mm;
• With a diameter of 1500 mm and above and a depth of 3 m and above are subject to individual consideration.

Volumes are not separately regulated, everything must be calculated from the depths and diameters specified on the diagrams. As for the work, the general cycle includes both preparatory actions, installation and completion.

1. Breakdown or marking of the territory, according to the rules of construction;
2. Cleaning the area from shrubs, vegetation;
3. Demolition/relocation of interfering structures. The impossibility of action is stipulated by special standards;
4. Preparation and arrangement of the entrance, the road to the construction site.

Arrangement and installation of a typical sewerage structure preparatory work according to SNiP:

1. An excerpt of a pit;
2. bottom cleaning;
3. Reconciliation with the project in terms of the level of laying, the angles of the slopes of the walls;
4. For stone structures, the arrangement of a waterproofing bottom layer, as shown by the diagram or plan (layer of at least 20 cm), subsequent tamping.

All preparatory work has been completed and the next stage is installation.

stone wells

The steps and actions are:

• Preparation of the base involves laying a slab or arranging a pillow made of M-50 concrete with a thickness of 100 mm;
• Arrangement of a concrete tray (M-100) reinforced with a steel mesh of the desired shape;
• Seal with concrete and bitumen end openings of the pipeline;
• Creation of an insulating layer of the internal cavity of the rings of the structure;
• The rings are installed only after the tray has gained strength (2-3 days), then the floor slab is laid. The solution used for work - M-50;
• Sealing joints with cement mixture;
• Waterproofing with bitumen;
• Mandatory plastering of the tray with cement, followed by ironing;
• Installation of clay interlocks at the entry point of a pipe/pipes with a width of at least 300 mm and a height of 600 mm greater than the diameter of the pipeline.

Subsequent test work takes place within a day and includes the complete filling of the structure with water with the blocking of the pipeline by temporary plugs. If leaks are not detected, the well walls are backfilled, a blind area measuring 1.5 m is equipped, the joints are insulated with a hot bituminous mixture - work on SNiP has been completed, the system can be put into operation.

The installation schemes for brick structures practically repeat the concrete ones, but instead of combining the rings, a stone is laid out. Waterproofing works are completely identical. Thus, stone wells of any type of sewerage are installed: household, industrial, storm water or drainage. But each design has its own nuances:

• The storm drain is equipped with lattice hatches that have a catchment function;
• Drainage wells themselves are drainage systems, so installation does not require special calculations.

Differences in configuration are determined by the series:

• KFK/KDK - household drains;
• KLV / KLK - storm water;
• KDV / KDN - drainage wells.

The size table gives a complete picture:

Drop wells

A more complex configuration determines the scope and requirements of SNiP for overflow wells. In addition to the tray device, it is necessary to make:

• Installation of risers;
• Have a water pumping equipment;
• Install a water wall;
• Create a practical profile;
• Set up a pit.

Otherwise, with regard to the installation of the shaft, base, floors - the rules are the same as the previous ones.

Important! The exception is a standing overflow well - a metal pipe is required to be installed in the base, which will prevent the destruction of the concrete structure.

The schema looks like this:

• Pipe-riser;
• Pillow water-breaking;
• Metal base (plate);
• Funnel reception (stand-up).

The funnel is required for compensatory discharge processes that are formed in the riser due to the rapid movement of flows. Do-it-yourself creation of overflow wells in private areas is not recommended, unless it is a pipeline with a diameter of 60 cm and a level difference of up to 3 m, but such pipes are practically not used in individual systems, successfully replaced by other types of wells.

The requirements of SNiP for drop wells are simple, installation is recommended in the following cases:

• It is necessary to significantly reduce the depth of the pipeline;
• If there are intersections with other underground utilities;
• Need to adjust the flow rate of wastewater;
• In the case when the well is the last before the direct discharge of wastewater into the river, lake.

The same reasons can serve as a reasonable justification for installing a drop well on your own site.

Arrangement of pipeline inlets into the well

Depending on the conditions of a particular place and soil, the entrance parts to the well are performed in different ways. Installation on dry ground is easier, as it regulates only two types of materials: cement and asbestos-cement mixture. For wet ground installation requires resin strand and waterproofing materials. But both methods are designed only for soils without subsidence.

On moving soils, SNiP installed movable connections: winding pipes with flexible plastic insulating packing. If you deviate from the rules, then you can insert a metal sleeve into the hole of the hatch and arrange a packing from a waterproofing material already inside.

polymer wells

Being a fairly new alternative replacement for stone wells, plastic structures are successfully used to create structures, however, so far only in private households.

Installation is regulated not according to SNiP, but only in accordance with the specifications, so the installation does not require functional features. An important difference between the simplest wells of intra-yard networks is simplicity, a large volume of water passage and the strength of the material. In addition to other advantages, polymer structures can reduce the size, for example, a concrete well of 1 m can be replaced with a plastic one with a diameter of only 30 cm. Despite the small volumes, maintenance will be even much easier than a stone well.

There are plenty of other benefits too:

1. Easy installation;
2. Low costs for digging pits, pits - smaller sizes do not require large excavations;
3. The outlets and tray design are clearly defined by the standards, are factory cast, and therefore there is no need for additional equipment or fabrication;
4. The materials for the manufacture of wells are indicated above, polymer structures are combined with any pipes made of plastic, cement, asbestos.

That is why it is worth once again paying attention to the choice before starting the installation of a sewer manhole. All installation schemes are simple, SNiP clearly indicates installation requirements, tray sizes, recommended volumes. But at the same time, the owner will be able to save on related work, the purchase of equipment and time costs.

Summer cottages, where it is not necessary to equip many wells, to build a tray for each, it is more practical to equip them with polymer structures. Modest in size, they do not lose their functionality and practicality.

1. Advantages of overflow wells for sewerage
2. Types of differential sewer wells

Sewerage is a rather complex system, even if it covers only a small suburban area. To create a sewer system, many elements are used, and one of the important details of any system is a drop well for sewage.

They are used in various ways, for example for:

• monitoring the functioning of the system;
• ensuring safe turns of the pipeline;
• wastewater treatment;
• accumulation of sewage;
• compensation for high-altitude differences in the system.

The latter type of wells will be discussed in detail in this article.

Differential sewer wells are used in order to compensate for the difference in height of the pipeline. A typical sewer overflow well looks like this: there is a well body, which is a wide concrete or plastic pipe, and two pipes that provide the supply and exit of effluents at different heights.

Benefits of overflow wells for sewerage

Overflow sewer wells perform the following functions:

• ensuring the operability of the pipeline in areas with difficult terrain;
• equalization of wastewater flow rates on pipeline sections with a strong slope;
• compensation of height difference between parts of the pipeline;
• alignment of the level of the outlet channel of the pipeline with the level of the location of the water intake.

Storm sewer overflow wells can be used both in domestic construction and in industrial areas.

The simple design of the devices allowed them to become quite common in private construction: having bought a finished structure, it is enough just to bury it in the ground and bring pipes.

Most often, for sewer systems, a spillway-type sewer overflow well is used, which, despite the limitation of areas of application (the simplest structures can only be used with a height difference of up to 1 meter), are a very common solution.

Types of differential sewer wells

There are several types of overflow wells, which is caused by different requirements for these devices.

Commonly used types include the following:

1. Tubular differential wells with an internal absorber.

   DIY sewerage

   Such a device assumes the presence of a riser on the internal cavity of the structure. The riser is mounted to the inlet pipe, and due to it, the speed of the passage of effluents through the system is limited.

2. Water blasting overflow wells with an internal absorber.

   In such structures, planes are installed to dampen the speed of wastewater movement. When water enters the plane, then there is a decrease in the rate of its movement.

In addition, there is a modification of overflow wells, equipped with a water seal.

Structurally, such a well is a conventional scheme, but done exactly the opposite: the inlet channel of the pipeline is at the bottom, and the outlet is at the top, which allows you to increase the level of the system in the next segment.

Such wells are quite complex, therefore they are used infrequently, only when necessary.

Conclusion

Overflow wells in the sewer make it possible to facilitate the work of the sewer system. When choosing a well, one should first of all consider plastic structures, since their advantages make it possible to talk about the greater convenience of these devices.

The device of the sewerage system in a country house, cottage

The device of sewer pipes

Any sewer begins with pipes coming from the bathroom, toilet, sink, washbasin (and also the pool).

Consider its device (the order of location and connection of sewer pipes):

1. Pipes connected directly to plumbing (sanitary fittings). As a rule, they go under the floor. The diameter of these pipes is 5 cm.
2. “Elbows” are connected to the previous pipes (pipes with a smooth bend of an angle of 45-90 degrees).
3. Elbows are connected to a pipe with a diameter of 10-11 cm, going to an external sewer pipe using adapters (adapters are pipes that have a tip for pipes with a diameter of 5 cm on one side and on the other side for pipes with a diameter of 10-11 cm).
4. A pipe with a diameter of 10-11 cm goes to the outside, connecting along the way with the rest of the adapters from other sanitary devices.
5. After each bend of the pipe (adapter or elbow), it is advisable to install a tee (a pipe that has a third exit with a cover) in order to check and clean the channel in case of blockage.
6. Before going outside, the last pipe of the internal sewerage is connected to the pipe of the external sewage system.
7. The external sewer pipe goes to the septic tank at a depth below the freezing of the soil (about 1.5 meters) and at an inclination of 2 cm per 1 meter of length (for example, with a length of 5 m, the slope will be a difference of 10 cm between the starting point and the end point).

   In cold areas, the external sewer pipe must be insulated.

8. From the septic tank goes the last pipe to the filter well.

In places of complex connections (for example, when several pipes from different places of the house are joined to one), crimp clamps should be installed to reduce vibration and increase structural rigidity.

If you have a two- or three-story cottage, and it has plumbing on different floors, then a riser (vertical pipe) should go along one wall, to which the rest will be connected.

Moreover, pipes from plumbing should go above the floor (not under the ceiling).

The riser will also be the ventilation of your sewer, so from the house it goes to the very surface of the roof and a little higher.

It is also advisable to install a small ventilation from a septic tank or filter well.

The riser itself must be attached to the wall with fixing clamps (on each floor in the upper and lower parts). At the intersections with the ceiling, the riser must be wrapped with soft thermal insulation and waterproofing so that it does not stagger and the insulating materials do not fall out.

The device of a sewer septic tank in a private house

The septic tank is set up as follows:

• First, a septic tank is a closed structure.

  But it can be with a hatch for cleaning.

• As a rule, do-it-yourself septic tanks consist of concrete rings, rubble stone or brickwork. Purchased (ready-made) plastic septic tanks.
• Outside, the septic tank is well isolated from water, laying clay about 20 cm thick under the bottom and along the walls.
• The joint of concrete rings must be smeared with resin.
• In a septic tank, sewage decomposes naturally from anaerobic bacteria, leaving a little sludge at the bottom.
• After the accumulation of wastewater residues, it passes into the filter well.

Ready-made septic tanks have different waste treatment systems.

We will write about them in future articles.

The distance from the septic tank to the house can be 5-20 m.

Filter well device

Self-made filter wells also consist of concrete rings, rubble stone or brickwork. Only they do not have a bottom, instead of it there is a crushed stone pillow.

Through it, filtered water seeps into the soil.

Drain hole in a private house with your own hands - how to make it

It is also desirable to make a hatch in the well to check if it is clogged. If it does not clog, then the cleaning system is working fine. That's the whole sewer filter well device.

The average dimensions of the filter well: depth - 2-3 m; diameter or width - 1.5-2 m; the depth of the cushion of crushed stone or gravel is 0.5-1 m.

Cesspool device

The simplest septic tank for sewage waste is a cesspool.

In fact, it is the same well (and with the same dimensions). The pit is not cleared naturally, therefore, when the tank is filled to 2/3 of the depth, a sewage machine must be called in to pump out the contents.

To make the cesspool fill more slowly, you need to order pipes with small holes. Through them, the liquid will slowly seep into the soil, slowing down the filling of the container.

SCHEMES OF SEWER NETWORKS

Sewer networks operate in gravity mode with partial filling of the pipeline section.

In this regard, the solution of the sewer network scheme depends mainly on the terrain, soil conditions and the location of water bodies.

Sewer networks are routed in the following sequence: first, dividing the territory of the canalized object into sewerage basins with watershed lines, the collectors of sewerage basins are traced along their low places; then, intercepting the collectors of the sewage basins, the main and suburban collectors are routed towards the treatment facilities and, finally, the street networks are routed to the collectors in such a way that each branch of the street network has a minimum length. The locations of the pumping stations are determined when calculating the network.

It is most expedient to place them in those places where the individual collectors suitable for the pumping station have the same laying depth.

The decision of the scheme of the sewer network (its tracing) is the most important stage in the design of the sewer, since the cost of the sewer as a whole depends on it.

The variety of local conditions does not allow us to recommend typical solutions for sewer network schemes.

The schemes encountered h;j in practice can be classified as follows.

1. Perpendicular scheme(Fig. III. 7, a)- collectors of sewage basins are traced perpendicular to the direction of water movement in the reservoir. This scheme is mainly used
for the discharge of atmospheric wastewater that does not require treatment

2. Crossed scheme(rice.

III. 7, b)- pool collectors
sewers are traced perpendicular to the direction of water movement in the reservoir and intercepted by the main collector, traced parallel to the river. This scheme is used with a smooth fall of the terrain to the reservoir and the need for cleaning
Wastewater.

3.Parallel (fan) circuit(Fig. III. 7, in)- collectors
sewerage pools are traced parallel to the direction of water movement in the reservoir or at a slight angle to it and are intercepted by the main collector transporting wastewater to the treatment plant perpendicular to the direction of water movement in the reservoir.

This scheme is used in case of a sharp drop in the terrain to the reservoir, as it allows you to exclude increased speeds in the collectors of the sewage basins, which cause the destruction of pipelines.

III.7. Schemes of sewer networks

a - perpendicular; b- crossed; in- parallel; G - zone; d - radial; /- Sewer pool collectors; 2 - boundary of sewerage basins; 3 - the boundary of the canalized object; 4 - main collector; 5 - pressure pipeline; S- release; 7-main collector of the upper zone; 8 - too.

lower zone

4. Zone (belt) scheme(Fig. III.7, G)- the canalized area is divided into two zones: from the top, wastewater is discharged to the treatment plant by gravity, and from the bottom it is pumped by a pumping station. Each of the zones has a scheme similar to the crossed scheme. The zone scheme is used with a significant or uneven fall of the terrain to the reservoir and the absence of the possibility of canalization of the entire territory (for example, the lower zone) by gravity.

Radial scheme(Fig. III.7, e)- wastewater treatment is carried out at two or more treatment stations. With this scheme, wastewater is discharged from the canalized area in a decentralized manner.

This scheme is used for complex terrain and sewerage of large cities.

The above classification of sewer network schemes is very approximate.

Proper routing of street sewer networks is essential. There are three following schemes for tracing street sewer networks.

Ambient tracing(rice.

Do-it-yourself sewer pit in a private house

III. eight, a)- street networks
encircle each quarter on all four sides. This scheme is used for flat terrain and large blocks.

2. Trace along the lower side of the block(Fig. III.8, b) - street networks are laid only on the lower sides of the served quarters. This scheme is used with a significant drop
terrain.

III.8. Tracing schemes for street networks

a- enclosing; b- on the lower side of the quarter; in- quarterly; / - quarters; // - building; /// - industrial enterprises

Cross-quarter tracing(Fig. III. 8, in)- street networks are laid inside the quarters. This scheme allows you to significantly reduce the length of the network, but complicates its operation.

Sewer lines should be laid in a straight line; in places where the network turns, in places where the slope of the line and the diameter of the pipes change, as well as at the junction of several lines, it is necessary "to arrange wells

Line and connection turns must be made at an angle equal to or less than 90°.

When solving the sewer network scheme and the sewerage scheme as a whole, the sequence of construction must be taken into account.

Usually, when developing schemes, a number of possible options are outlined that meet sanitary requirements.

Finally, one or another option is chosen on the basis of a feasibility study carried out when drawing up a technical project.

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How to lay a sewer in a private house with your own hands

1. Types of autonomous sewer systems in a private house
2. How to lay a sewer - procedure
3. Installation of an external sewer system
4. Laying sewer pipes with your own hands
5. Rules for the arrangement of internal sewage

Arrangement of a suburban area is not an easy task.

In the process of building a house and various life support systems, various questions constantly arise. The very first and extremely important issue is the creation of sewage: at the development stage, it may simply be absent, and this will immediately have a bad effect on comfort. This article will describe in detail how to lay a sewer in a private house.

Often, homeowners turn to specialists for laying sewers.

Of course, this option is always possible, but the cost of such services will be very high. A much more profitable solution could be laying sewers in a private house with your own hands: you will have to try, but there will be no particular difficulties along the way.

To make a decision about laying a sewer, you must first solve one important task - to find out if there is a centralized sewer nearby.

Its presence will greatly simplify all the processes associated with the arrangement of sewage. To connect to the main network, it will be necessary to figure out which pipes will be required, how to connect them, and how the connection to the centralized system is made.
In any case, the greatest efforts will have to be made to equip the external sewage system: digging trenches is a rather laborious task.

In addition, all trenches must have a sufficient depth exceeding the depth of soil freezing in the region (in more detail: “Sewerage depth in a private house - what and how according to the standards”). The average depth of trenches usually varies from 0.5 to 1.5 meters.

Insufficient depth of the pipeline will bring a lot of trouble in the very near future: as soon as frost sets in, the drains in the pipes will freeze, and the pipes will burst from high pressure.

And it is almost impossible to repair them in winter, you will have to wait for warming. And all this time to use the sewer will not work.

To avoid such problems, you should carefully read this article, from which you can find out how sewerage is carried out in a private house with your own hands. In addition, we will rather talk about arranging a local autonomous sewer system, which is great for areas remote from the main sewer (more: "Autonomous sewerage of a private house - types, advantages and disadvantages").

Types of autonomous sewer systems in a private house

There are several types of local sewage systems:

1. Cesspool pit.
2. Septic.
3. Biological treatment station.

The cesspool, despite its outdated design, is still in demand and is used in private households.

One of the key factors behind this choice is the ease of construction. The old technology for creating a drain pit does not imply its tightness, which creates some danger to the environment, but the updated scheme does not have this drawback.

In any case, before installing any type of sewage, it is necessary to conduct a geological survey of the site, and then it will be easier to choose a design, and the norms for laying sewers will become clearer.

It is easiest to build a drain pit from bricks used to equip the walls of the structure. Red bricks are best suited.

If it is possible to use lifting equipment, then you can equip a pit of reinforced concrete rings: the construction will be a little easier, since the rings are produced ready-made.

The bottom of the pit should be concreted, and the structure itself is covered with a slab equipped with ventilation outlets and an inspection hatch.
The most widespread are local autonomous sewerage systems that provide gradual wastewater treatment - septic tanks.

This type of system is better suited for permanent use, which is the reason for its popularity. In this case, sewerage in a private house does not require special knowledge, and operation is extremely simple.

When purchasing a finished structure, installation will be even easier, since such systems have an enclosed manual (read also: “Do-it-yourself sewerage system in a private house - rules for installation and installation”).

A weighty argument in favor of a septic tank is the processing of wastewater, which reduces the frequency of calling vacuum trucks to clean the storage. In modern septic tanks, the number of chambers is usually in the range of 2-3, which allows for a high degree of sewage treatment.

Built-in aeration elements and biofilters can work for quite a long time, so there are practically no problems with septic tanks.

How to lay a sewer - procedure

To make sewerage wiring in a private house not cause difficulties, it is necessary to draw up a clear action plan:

1. The first step is to find a suitable place where the waste storage tank will be located. Mandatory condition: the tank must be lower than the level of the sewer outlet from the building.
2. In parallel with the first point, a place is selected for the collector to leave the house.
3. The selected sewer outlet from the building must be selected very carefully: it must be understood that all sewage will pass through this section, so the load will be large.

   In addition, there must be some space in this place for the collector to be correctly installed (without corners and deviations).

4. After preliminary preparation, it is necessary to start creating a high-quality and accurate design of the sewer system. There is an important nuance here: it is desirable to minimize the number of corners and turns. External sewerage should be as straight as possible, and in the internal one there must be corners and bends. These rules for laying sewers in a private house must be observed in order not to experience problems with a lack of material or a poorly functioning system in the future.
5. When the sewer project is ready, you can start acquiring materials and tools (if necessary).
6. If you have all the necessary elements, you can proceed to the arrangement of external and internal sewage.

Installation of an external sewer system

Laying sewerage in the ground requires a large amount of earthwork.

Of course, in some cases, everything is simplified due to the presence of the old design. If the sewer has already been built, and it only needs to be replaced, then there will be no particular problems: just remove the old pipes and install new ones.

But most often the sewer system has to be completely redone.

There is nothing wrong with this, although there will be a lot of work: you need to raise the floors and deepen the structure to a suitable depth (if necessary). To perform such an operation, it is necessary to dig a hole under the foundation, which will allow you to measure the depth of the foundation itself. As a rule, this value exceeds 1 meter, and such a depth is quite enough for the normal functioning of the sewer system.

Having equipped the outlet, a trench is dug leading to a reservoir for storing and processing wastewater.

The trench along its entire length should have a constant slope, and the depth will gradually increase towards the collector.

Do-it-yourself sewer pipe laying

For proper operation of the sewage system, two branches of the pipeline are required: external and internal.

To lay outdoor sewer pipes, it is necessary to properly prepare the trench: its bottom is covered with a layer of sand, which is compacted. After compaction, the thickness of the sand cushion should be about 20 cm. This will prevent excessive soil pressure on the pipeline.

An important aspect is the connection of pipeline sections: all joints must be airtight.

It is better not to save money on the installation of revisions, since cleaning a clogged sewer can be much more expensive (read also: “Do-it-yourself installation of sewer pipes - options and methods”).

On average, revisions are installed on each segment 4 m long, and are closed with plugs from the outside.

Rules for arranging internal sewerage

In modern construction, the laying of sewer networks is most often done using plastic pipes. They have a lot of advantages: they are corrosion resistant, easy to install and can last much longer than metal counterparts (read: “Internal sewage in a private house is a do-it-yourself device”).

Installation of internal sewerage in a private house involves taking into account the amount of plumbing.

When installing a large number of plumbing fixtures, the outlet pipe must have a diameter of 100 mm or more. In addition, you need to understand that most outlet channels are made of 50 mm pipes, so you will have to connect pipelines of different diameters.
Of course, this is not a particular problem, since ready-made adapters can be purchased on the market, allowing you to create the highest quality and tight connection.

When installing the structure, you should pay attention to the quality of the seals: they should not have defects, otherwise sewer leaks cannot be avoided.

The riser in the house must be equipped with a revision, and the height of its installation must exceed 1 meter from the level of the floor covering.

Also, the structure is equipped with a ventilation outlet, which is mounted on the roof (the distance from the roof must be more than 0.7 m). If there is no ventilation, characteristic sewer odors can occur in the house, which will negatively affect comfort.

When installing a riser in a cold room, you need to take care of insulation.

How to make a sewer in a private house with your own hands

To connect the riser to the outer part of the sewer, a special outlet of a smaller diameter is used. This release is mounted at a large angle - from 90 degrees. The connection between the risers is usually carried out by two bends with an angle of 135 degrees. An additional riser will require a 45-degree tee and an additional branch.

With independent construction, it would be better to avoid such difficulties by mounting a single riser or collector.

Conclusion

This article answers the question "how to lay a sewer in a private house?".

If all the work is done correctly, then the sewer system will delight residents with its work for a long time.

Laying sewer pipes in a private house, prices are lower.

You are welcomed by a master who privately performs a variety of types of plumbing work.

I have been doing this for many years, I have vast experience, I have professional tools, I know all modern materials and technologies. I guarantee you exceptional quality, the shortest possible time, an adequate cost of services.

Now I want to tell you about the laying of sewer pipes in a private house - in my opinion, the most crucial stage in the installation of sewers.

The normal, stable functioning of the system depends on how competently and accurately it is produced.

How much does it cost to install sewers in a private house.

The cost of installing sewer systems	Price in rub.
	Installation of a sewerage point with the device of risers, revisions, plugs and fragrances
	Pipe insulation
	Laying pipes of external sewerage
	Chasing under the pipe (for concrete)
	Chasing under the pipe (for brick, foam concrete)
	The device of a hole in the foundation for the withdrawal of a sewer pipe
	Drilling through holes (concrete up to 32mm)
	Drilling through holes (brick, foam concrete up to 32 mm)
	Chasing the channel for pipes up to 32mm concrete
	Chasing under pipes up to 32mm brick. Features of building a cesspool in a private yard with your own hands foam concrete

So, first, a room plan is drawn up, the footage and all connections are calculated, and the optimal system configuration is selected. At this stage, the customer already knows the exact cost of the work and can purchase materials. I can recommend good Russian or foreign manufacturers who produce durable, technologically advanced pipes that are not prone to deposit formation.

Most often, the laying of sewer pipes begins with trimming.

This is done with a regular hacksaw, but it is important that the cuts are strictly perpendicular. After trimming, you need to remove the burrs, and chamfer the outside. If this is not done, the sealing ring will collapse during installation, violating the tightness of the connection.

Then you need to lay out the prepared segments along the trajectory, close them, carefully fasten the joints.

The depth of docking is from 5 to 8-10 cm, depending on the diameter. It is desirable that communications go along the walls, taking up a minimum of space. But it is necessary to leave a small margin of space for possible repairs.

During the laying process, it is important to maintain the required slope.

According to building codes, it is 2-3 cm per meter of communication (depending on the diameter of the pipe), but even with a slope of 1 cm, the sewer will function normally.

The slope must be maintained throughout the route. So that it is not broken, you can use special suspension clamps.

It is believed that laying sewer pipes is a simple operation. So it is, but often the installation has to be done in narrow, hard-to-reach places. And it is important to ensure complete tightness of the connections, so you often have to deviate from the original scheme and come up with other options. Especially if the customer, in addition to the toilet and bath (shower) wants to connect a washing machine and bidet.

If the sewerage in a private house is external, then it needs to be insulated.

Usually I use special materials, and I fill the track with gravel on top. When everything is done, I make sure to check the tightness of the connections.

Upon completion of installation, the customer receives a guarantee.

Many owners of private houses have to wonder: how to make a sewer well? Of course, it is always better to turn to professionals who are familiar with the installation technology and will be able to cope with the task. But if you don't have the funds to hire professionals, or if you want to save money on installation, then it's worth taking a closer look at this process and considering the individual steps.

To carry out the arrangement of the sewer well, you will need a number of materials:

1. Rubble.
2. Reinforced concrete rings.
3. Pipes for sewerage.

After preparing the materials, you need to understand how to properly make a sewer well and where it is best to place it.

Performing a sewer well with your own hands, carefully approach the choice of a place to place it. It should be installed at some distance from the house in order to exclude the possibility of flooding with foundation drains. If there is a well for water intake on the site, then the distance between them must be at least thirty meters.

Other important parameters for choosing a place:

1. The well should be installed so that a vacuum truck can freely drive up to it for cleaning. Otherwise, you will experience constant problems with pumping wastewater.
2. How to properly install a sewer well relative to the house and choose a place? Consider the location of the sewer pipe leaving the building. There should be no angles greater than 120 degrees between it and the well, or serious connection problems will arise.
3. Near the structure, it is not necessary to carry out landings and place other structures.

When making a sewer well with your own hands, you should pay attention to its tightness. According to the norms, it should not let water through, but this entails additional problems and will have to be cleaned more often. Therefore, most owners perform a filtering bottom that removes sewage.

You choose the size yourself, depending on the number of discharged drains. Many are interested in how to make a sewer well in a private house for 3 - 4 people and what depth to choose? The optimal solution for such a family is about 4 reinforced concrete rings, the larger the size, the less often you have to clean.

Construction

Now we will tell you how to build a sewer well. After choosing a location and depth, it would be nice to perform a simple scheme. It indicates the location of the house, the sewer pipe and the well, the dimensions of the future structure.

It is recommended to purchase reinforced concrete rings in advance, measure their diameter, height of each element. These parameters add up the dimensions of the required pit. It needs to be a little wider and deeper than the rings in order to install without problems. Additionally, it is necessary to provide a trench for supplying a sewer pipe.

Pit preparation

Manual development with shovels is a rather complicated option that takes a lot of time and effort. If you need to complete a structure with great depth, then only the first stage may take several days.

Another way to make a sewer well with your own hands is to attract specialized equipment, including an excavator. He will quickly cope with the task, significantly save time in the construction process.

After preparing the pit, you can proceed to the next steps.

How to install a sewer well?

For filtering structures, it is necessary to fill the bottom with crushed stone, its layer must be at least 40 centimeters. If the structure is completely sealed, then a reinforced concrete slab or concrete mortar for pouring is used as the base.

In practice, you can make a sewer well with your own hands from various materials, including:

1. reinforced concrete rings.
2. Brick.
3. wooden elements.
4. plastic structures.

Brick laying takes a sufficient amount of time, and wooden structures are damaged faster in high humidity. Plastic can be used, but it must be handled carefully so as not to damage the elements during installation. Therefore, it is best to use reinforced concrete, it is the most reliable and durable material today.

How to arrange a sewer well from reinforced concrete? Rings are installed on a prepared base. These structures are extremely heavy and may require a small crane or manipulator for installation. The joints should be smeared with sealants - they will exclude the flow of effluents into the soil.

1. Initially, pipes from the house are brought to the well. They are connected to each other, you will need a special machine for metal welding.
2. A hole of the required diameter is punched in one of the rings, depending on the dimensions of the pipes.
3. Direct installation is carried out with the supply of the sewerage system to the structure. The junction with concrete should be well lubricated with sealant, it eliminates leaks.

After installation, you can fill up the trench with the pipe. An additional floor is installed directly on the structure. The cavities around are sprinkled with soil, the soil is carefully laid on the floor, a small free hole remains.

Cover installation

A cover is installed on top. It should be waterproofed so that rain and melt water do not get inside. It is not recommended to fill the cover with soil, it must be freely accessible and provide an outlet for accumulating gases.

Good ventilation is extremely important during further operation. Organic matter decomposes inside, methane and hydrogen sulfide are released. They must be brought to the surface, a large accumulation of methane poses a potential threat to the structure.

Now you know how to install a sewer well. Drawing conclusions, we can distinguish several main stages of construction:

1. Preparatory work, choice of location and size, purchase of materials.
2. Preparation of a pit and a trench for a pipe supply.
3. Foundation laying.
4. Ring installation.
5. Sewer connection.
6. Installation of overlapping with a cover and backfilling with soil.

How to make a cover?

It is best to purchase the standard cast iron version along with other elements. Making a sewer well cover with your own hands will require a lot of time and effort; additional materials and tools are needed for manufacturing.

But if the standard cover was destroyed during operation and it needs to be replaced, then you can make it yourself from the available materials. The simplest solution is to make it out of wood. You will need to pick up strong and high-quality boards, cut them to the required size, and connect them together. It is better to give a round shape after assembly, trim with electric saws and jigsaws. Wood is recommended to be treated with protective compounds, then it will serve you for a longer time.

You can make a concrete cover. To do this, you need to choose a round shape, lay wires in the form of reinforcement on its bottom, it will significantly increase the strength of the structure. The prepared solution is poured from above, aged until completely dry and cured. The lid is carefully removed from the mold, it can be laid on the well.

So that the foundation of the house does not collapse due to the influence of moisture contained in the soil, it is imperative to make a drainage system. To save money, it is recommended to build a drainage well for sewage with your own hands or seek help from specialists.

What drainage wells exist?

Drainage wells can be:

• rotary;
• viewing;
• collector;
• absorbent.

Features of rotary wells

As a rule, during the operation of the sewer system, pollution occurs, which often accumulate in perforated pipes. To clean them, you will need to install rotary type wells. They are installed at pipe turns, with a pass through one. Thus, access to the inlet and outlet section of the pipe is provided.

Installation of a concrete drainage well

The dimensions of such a structure will depend on whether a person needs access to the inside of the well in order to carry out repair actions. Thus, the approximate diameter of the well should be about one meter, only it will already be considered a viewing well.

Inspection type wells

Drainage viewing structures are made to control the operation of the sewer system. This design is characterized by a large shaft, that is, it must be of sufficient size for easy access by a person who will monitor the condition of the sewer. If necessary, repair and maintenance work will be carried out.

installation of a plastic drainage well

A structure of this type is designed to perform several actions at once, it can also be rotary, since it is also installed at the point of convergence of several pipes or at their turning point.

Absorption type wells

These structures can also be called filtering, since they are most often mounted on the territory where there is a need to drain it, while there is no possibility of outputting currents to the general sewer system. In such cases, the depth of the wells will be approximately two meters.

For a device of this design, you must follow a certain technology:

• first, a hole of the required size is dug;
• a layer of gravel is laid on its bottom and a container is placed inside, it can be a pipe with a diameter of 50 cm;
• when this pipe is installed, broken brick, crushed stone, slag or gravel of a medium-sized fraction are poured into it;
• around this filled structure, gravel is sprinkled;
• thus, a good and high-quality drainage reservoir is obtained. From above it must be covered with geotextile material and a layer of earth laid. As a result of these actions, a structure is obtained, with the help of which the natural drainage of effluents into the ground is carried out.

principle of operation of the absorption drainage well

Collector wells

Such structures can also be called water intakes, since this is the last compartment of a closed drainage system. In this well, water is collected and accumulated, which will later be pumped into a previously prepared recess, ditch or artificial reservoir.

installation and selection of a collector well

Typically, such containers are constructed from ready-made sealed plastic wells, which are equipped with a waterproof bottom.

What materials may be required for a drainage structure?

Like pipes, drainage wells can differ in the material of manufacture and size. Most often, plastic or concrete is used for the production of such structures:

• to implement the second option, concrete rings are used, the height and diameter of which may be different. Installation of the structure is carried out in a pre-prepared pit, while the rings are lowered carefully with the help of special equipment. In this case, the main advantage will be the strength and durability of the structure, and the disadvantage is the complexity of installation work;
• now plastic analogues are successfully replacing concrete wells, since they are easier and faster to install. Also, the advantages include low cost, low weight and the presence of all the required taps. Plastic drainage wells are not subject to corrosive damage and can successfully serve for at least 50 years. For high-quality and reliable pipe supply, rubber seals are used, which maintain tightness for decades. Since the use of a corrugated pipe is envisaged, the device will be securely fixed in the ground due to its stiffeners.

How to build a drainage tank?

Ready-made drainage structures for the construction of a well are distinguished by ease of installation, reliability and good quality. The main disadvantage of finished wells is their high cost, in particular, this applies to products with a diameter of 800-1000 mm. To save money, you can build such a structure yourself.

construction of a drainage reservoir

For the manufacture of a drainage structure, it is required to acquire corrugated pipes of the appropriate diameter:

• for the construction of manholes, a pipe diameter of 340 mm or 460 mm is suitable, this is enough to ensure manual cleaning of the sewer system by means of water pressure from a hose;
• to make a storage or filter tank, you will need pipes with a diameter of 575 or 695 mm;
• if there is a need to periodically penetrate inside the well for repair and maintenance work, then you need to buy pipes with a diameter of 925 mm.

In addition to plastic corrugated pipes, you also need to buy rubber seals of a suitable diameter, a hatch and plastic for the bottom device.

To save money, you can buy the components separately.

During the assembly and installation of the storage facility, a certain sequence should be observed:

• holes are cut in the well for connecting pipes and installing rubber seals;
• the bottom of the well is mounted. Experts recommend treating the bottom of the structure with bituminous mastic, so the bottom of the well will be protected from leaks;
• using crushed stone and sand, you need to make a base in a drainage ditch, after which it is poured with cement;
• a finished structure is installed on the prepared bottom. To prevent the risk of leakage of the structure, it is recommended to coat the places where the drainage pipes are connected with bituminous mastic;
• the tank is filled with crushed stone and sand, after which the tamping and laying of the base for the hatch device is carried out. The hatch is placed in a pre-prepared cement frame.

The presence of a hatch is a prerequisite, since it is necessary to clean the drainage system. The service life of the structure directly depends on the correct manufacture and installation of the well.

Well construction step by step

When all the materials have already been purchased and prepared, you can proceed with the installation work:

• First, the pipe must be cut to length, while taking into account the depth of the drainage well.
• It is necessary to cut holes for connecting pipes, retreating 50 cm from the bottom edge of the pipe. Rubber cuffs are inserted into these holes.
• The bottom of the well is fixed, while the docking site must be treated with a bitumen-based sealant.
• To install the well, you need to prepare a pit in advance, at the bottom of which cement mortar is poured.
• The structure can only be installed after the cement has completely hardened, after which drainage pipes are connected to it.
• The space formed between the walls of the pit and the structure must be covered with sand and gravel.
• A hatch is placed on top of the installed tank.

Features of the installation of plastic wells

As a rule, ready-made plastic structures are not cheap, so you won’t be able to save much. The only thing you can do is to buy individual elements of the required size and diameter yourself. So, you need to prepare:

• corrugated pipe of the appropriate diameter;
• plastic for bottom device;
• rubber seals. For the installation of a storage or filtration well, a pipe with a diameter of 695 or 575 mm is required.

In the process of installing a drainage well with your own hands, it is important to adhere to a certain algorithm:

• the corrugated pipe must be cut, taking into account the depth of the well. Next, it is required to make holes in it for connecting perforated pipes, which are connected using rubber seals;
• a ditch is dug, on the bottom of which a layer of gravel with sand is laid. After that, the structure is poured with cement mortar and covered with geotextile material;
• at the next stage, the bottom is installed, which is connected to the pipe, while the docking place must be treated with bituminous mastic;
• now it is possible to bring drainage pipes to the structure, and the joints should also be coated with a sealing compound;
• it is imperative to install a pump that will ensure the pumping of the collected water;
• the voids formed around the well must be covered with fine-grained gravel;
• at the last stage of work, the roof is mounted.

Summing up

A necessary part of the drainage system is the drainage tank. It is installed in order to monitor the operation of the entire system, it is also necessary to carry out repair and preventive measures.

To simplify the installation process of the structure, you can buy a finished product that will cost a lot, but if this is not possible, you can build it yourself. For this, plastic pipes or concrete rings of the required diameter are used.

In fact, building a drainage structure is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. It is enough to purchase the necessary set of parts and adhere to a certain algorithm of actions.