How to prune faded rose buds. Pruning roses to make the rose beautiful, it is pruned in spring, summer and autumn

In the summer, you can and should prune roses. If they are pruned to form and improve the bush, this is a sanitary procedure. But another thing is pruning rose bushes in the summer after flowering.

About caring for roses after flowering in summer

After the end of the first abundant flowering roses in the summer season she needs special care. It helps subsequently to release new shoots again, on which buds will appear. The flower may bloom again in autumn.

How to prune roses after flowering in summer so that they bloom again? After the buds have faded, wilted flowers are removed, and too long stems are shortened to give the bush a harmonious shape.

Note! There are non-repairable roses that bloom only once a season, so pruning them will not produce new buds.

Also in the summer, weeding in flower beds with rose bushes, soil mulching, watering and top dressing are mandatory. If necessary, the bushes are sprayed with fungicides to protect against insects and diseases.

With regular mulching of the soil, weed grass practically does not appear. To feed the bushes, potash fertilizers are scattered next to them. You can buy ready-made or use chicken manure.

If dry weather has set in, and there has been no precipitation for a long time, then rose bushes should be watered frequently. After watering, the soil is mulched. This will prevent the rapid evaporation of moisture from the soil. As mulch, use tree bark, wood chips or other organic materials. The mulch is laid out in a layer of 10 cm. The place near the bush with a diameter of 10 cm is not covered.

rose pruning

Why are roses pruned?

Depending on the height of the rose bushes, the variety of the group to which they belong, and the season, various pruning methods are used.

The first spring removal of branches from rose bushes is carried out to form the appearance of the bush, to remove excess shoots that prevent the normal growth of other stems, and also to remove damaged ones. This is primarily for decorative purposes.

Pruning in autumn prepares the bush for entry into winter, which contributes to:

• acceleration of the process of formation of new stems;
• strengthening the development of the root system;
• getting by the plant more nutrients;
• reduce the risk of infection.

Note! Proper pruning of the stems of rose bushes is the key to the appearance of updated shoots and the formation of new buds. Without having certain knowledge of such a procedure, you can cause irreparable harm to the plant.

Do roses need to be cut off faded buds? Such removal is carried out, first of all, in order to preserve the attractive appearance of the bush, and also contributes to the continuation of flowering. After that, the rose directs its strength to the process of throwing out new shoots with buds. This procedure is carried out until the moment when the plant begins to prepare for winter, and the branches harden.

More about pruning roses after flowering

When starting to remove wilted buds, you need to wear gloves to protect your hands from sharp spikes. The cut is carried out with a sharp pruner.

How to prune roses after flowering in summer? Cut off those flowers in which the petals have become weak and have begun to crumble. At this time, the blossoming buds begin to wither and bend down to the ground. At the same time, stems growing in the wrong direction can be removed. Extra shoots are removed to ensure penetration into the bush sunlight and air.

Before determining the place of the cut, carefully examine the leaves. They are united on the handle in groups of several pieces. The correct cut is made over a sheet, which consists of at least 5 small sheets. It should be noted that the new shoot will grow in the direction in which the leaf grows.

Note! When cutting a shoot over a cutting consisting of 3 leaves, a non-flowering shoot may grow. The appearance of new flowers on them is possible only for the next season.

How to prune faded rose buds for re-blooming

Pruning roses in July after flowering is carried out by removing the buds along with the branch. And you should pay attention to the growth point - near the place where the stalk connects to the leaf. Subsequently, a shoot begins to grow from it again, on which a new bud will be formed. You need to take into account the age of the bushes. Run away from annual plants cut about half.

Important! The branch should be cut only above the growing point.

On the next year each cut branch will give 2-3 shoots. Biennials are shortened by 2-3 eyes from the beginning of the base, and annuals are shortened directly above the upper bud, located under the faded bud.

In adult plants (over 3 years of age), all dead and weak branches, as well as small shoots formed after pruning in the previous year, are completely removed.

If you have to cut a large number bushes, it is not necessary to carefully determine the place of the cut. It is enough to remove the branch at a distance of about 5-8 mm above the selected leaf, since the growth points are located almost next to the leaves.

Pruning allows roses to be enjoyed longer during the flowering season. If faded roses are not cut off, then rose hips and seeds begin to form from them.

Many people believe that the process of cutting a branch must be carried out at an angle of 45 °, since with a perpendicular cut, a fungal infection may begin in the plant due to moisture accumulating in this place, and from an inclined one, water will roll faster.

Note! To protect injured places from possible damage, they can be treated with PVA glue.

You should not cut off a wilted bud by pinching the pedicel. After the procedure carried out in this way, a weakened shoot will appear.

Pruning roses with large buds has some differences from that of bushes of other varieties. They cut off the stem on which the flower formed to a certain place, and in spray multi-flowered roses and tea roses, after they have faded, the entire part of the branch above the first leaf is completely removed. This procedure is carried out in the same way for ground cover varieties.

Important! After the second flowering of the rose in autumn, pruning is undesirable. It is better if the plant is at rest and can prepare for winter time.

Pruning hybrid tea varieties

The branches of the bushes of hybrid tea roses are cut in such a way that a ball shape is formed. Since the buds are formed on the shoots formed in the current year, most of them are removed. Procedure schemes for such varieties use the following:

• on bushes one- and two-year-olds leave 2-4 buds, retreating 15 cm from the soil level,
• on adults - 4-6 buds at a distance of approximately 20 cm, and about 2-4 buds are left on the side shoots.

Pruning a room rose

Some believe that indoor rose after flowering it no longer forms buds, but this is not the case. At proper care they will reappear.

Branches are pruned in early spring. The second time the procedure is carried out after complete flowering, while 3 live buds are left on the branches. Also, shoots growing inside the bush are removed from the rose in a pot, and those on which wilted buds remain.

Pruning scheme for climbing varieties

Buds in climbing plants are formed only on last year's shoots. After flowering, cutting of old branches is carried out only if there are new shoots.

The formation of climbing bushes is carried out in a horizontal direction. Flowers and young branches appear along such branches in summer. Pruning after flowering is carried out in late summer - early autumn. Old lashes are cut off, leaving 30-40 cm from the base.

Rose pruning scheme

Further care

Like other plants, it needs timely watering. The ideal option is to install an automatic irrigation system. Specialists set it up in such a way that water flows under each bush periodically and in doses. This greatly simplifies the care of the flower garden. But since this is often not possible, it is necessary to water manually. It is advisable to moisten only the soil under the bush, and not the entire plant. At the same time, for one bush it is enough to add 5-15 liters of water.

Important! Water for irrigation should be preheated in the sun. Watering is carried out from 1 to 3 times a week. Their number is determined by the state of the soil in the flower beds.

Irrigation is carried out in evening time or early in the morning. Do not water in the midday heat. This can adversely affect the development of the plant: burns can form on tender leaves.

To ensure violent flowering, do not forget about fertilizers. Use granular top dressing. They are simply scattered near the plant. This is done 3-4 times a season. You can also use soluble fertilizers. They are first lowered into the water, and then poured into the ground next to the bush.

Subject to all the rules for summer pruning of roses, their abundant and lush bloom. And regular care and getting rid of excess shoots will help protect them from insect pests and diseases.

How to properly prune roses depends on their type. Don't forget to take care of quality tool for work.

Goals and timing of rose pruning

Roses in horticulture are commonly referred to as cultural forms of plants belonging to the genus rose hips of the rose family. With all the variety of types and varieties of roses, there are several general principles their cuts.

Pruning is one of the most important agrotechnical measures. Timely pruning of roses is the key to the longevity of the bush, its decorative effect, good and long flowering.

To anyone who is just starting to master the features of pruning roses, this process in many ways will seem simply incomprehensible. And it’s not even about the variety of species and varieties that require individual approach, and in a large number of trim types. Nevertheless, it is possible to single out the main tasks of pruning roses, on the basis of which to decide on the methods of its implementation.

So, pruning roses has the following goals:

• bush rejuvenation. By removing old shoots, the plant can spend all its strength on the formation of large beautiful buds;
• giving the bush the most decorative look. By cutting off excess and unproductive shoots, you can give the bush the desired shape;
• lush and long flowering. Buds are formed only on strong young shoots;
• creation of optimal conditions for wintering plants;
• reducing the risk of developing fungal diseases. The fact is that good ventilation, provided by removing excess branches inside the bush, prevents the occurrence of diseases;
• obtaining excellent specimens for cutting.

The basic rules for pruning roses are as follows:

• pruning is carried out to healthy wood;
• pruning is carried out on a kidney located on outside escape;
• if, after pruning, 2–3 shoots develop from one bud, then only one should be left, the rest should be removed;
• it is necessary to remove all diseased, thin, dead, weak, intersecting shoots to healthy wood or to soil level;
• so many shoots should be left so that there is normal air exchange and good illumination of the bush, this helps prevent the development of fungal diseases.

Pruning roses is a simple operation, but requires knowledge.

The shoots are cut with a sharp pruner 5-6 mm above the developed bud and at an angle of 45 °. The cut surface must be smooth, without cracks or burrs. It must be covered with garden pitch.

In the first summer after planting Special attention give to the formation of bushes. At this time, when pruning roses, all small, growing inward, thickening shoots, as well as those growing from the place of grafting or the root neck (in own-rooted ones) are cut into a ring, strongly growing ones are pinched. In July, the forming prunings are finished so as not to cause the growth of new shoots, which, before they have time to ripen, freeze slightly and often cause roses to be affected by diseases. In grafted roses, wild shoots are systematically cut to the ground, which in the first summer is especially abundant, with age it becomes less. In order not to weaken the plants, emerging buds can be removed.

In subsequent years, summer pruning consists in shortening individual shoots that grow too violently, especially in large-flowered rose bushes and stem rose crowns. However, the main task summer pruning- induce the plant to new flowering. In order for the bush to give the maximum number of flowers that a particular variety can give, its correct summer pruning is necessary. You cannot simply remove a faded rose flower with a simple pinch, i.e. I tore off one flower and that's it - this is a big mistake, because a new shoot with a flower will appear very high. It will be elongated, thin and will easily bend, i.e. bend. It is necessary to remove the flower before the petals completely fall off, i.e. as soon as the appearance has lost its appeal. It is necessary to cut off the flower below, then the new shoot in this place will be strong and hold tight (when cutting the flower, leave a 6-8 mm stump above the eye). Probably, disputes between gardeners about the need for pruning will never stop, because someone considers it a panacea for all ills, and someone perceives it as an act of vandalism over the very nature of the tree. However, years of experience show that pruning is necessary in many cases, promoting more vigorous growth and abundant flowering and fruiting, helping in the prevention and treatment of diseases and eliminating pests, and in addition, it prolongs the life garden plants allowing them to delight us with their fragrant fruits or beautiful flowers much longer.

At the same time, one should not start pruning plants thoughtlessly, because each species or even variety requires an individual approach: someone needs a minimum of intervention, and someone is unable to give a bountiful harvest without strong pruning in the spring.

However, remember: even observing the rules for pruning roses and performing this procedure in a timely manner, without proper care of the plant, it still will not bloom as it should. So take care of your garden, take care of the crops, and they will surely thank you with lush flowers and delicious fruits.

Pruning roses to form a bush

The bush is formed in the first summer after planting. Small shoots growing inward, and shoots coming from the root collar or grafting site, are cut into a ring. Too long or intensively growing shoots are pinched. In June, the formation of a bush when pruning roses is completed. Otherwise, the rose will produce new shoots that will not have time to mature before winter.

Removal of wild growth. Most often, roses are propagated by grafting: a varietal form of a rose is grafted to a wild stock. Later, wild shoots grow from the grafting site. Their leaves are smaller, the stems are lighter, they have more thorns. Part of the nutrients intended for cultivated plant. Therefore, such shoots must be immediately disposed of, preventing them from growing. Wild shoots are cut out in May. The earth is raked from the root neck of the bush to expose the place where the shoot grows. The sprout is cut at the base with sharply sharpened scissors or a knife. Together with the shoot, a little bark is removed. Cutting wild shoots near the surface of the soil is useless. Moreover, it will only increase their growth.

Pruning by timing is divided into spring, summer and autumn.

Pruning rose bushes in spring (with video)

After pruning, the roses are sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate at the rate of 100 g per 1 liter of water, then the bushes are spudded and covered with a film or lutrasil to create a shadow.

If spring night frosts are no longer expected, then the shelter is removed from the roses and unraveled.

Spring pruning is the main one, since the formation of a rose bush and its subsequent development are directly dependent on it. Pruning times may vary from year to year due to weather fluctuations in middle lane Russia. But in any case, it must be done on time. If the rose was cut too early, then during the first warm days the buds will begin to swell and grow, but with repeated frosts, which also often happens in the middle lane, they die; if pruned late, the bush will spend too much energy on the formation of new shoots, which will subsequently be removed.

Pruning of rose bushes in the spring is carried out immediately after the removal of the shelter and the clearing of the bush. Roses are pruned in the spring in March - April. It is advisable to wait for the awakening of the kidneys. Then it will be clear which stems are damaged by frost, and which endured the winter normally.

The rose is pruned, thereby creating conditions for the beginning of the formation of a bush, which is typical for this garden group, and the most lush flowering.

The stems are shortened to a height of 20–25 cm. The exception is curly and park species: only old shoots are cut from them.

The growth buds of roses are located in the axils of the leaves. The cut is made as close to the kidney as possible, but so as not to damage it. The cut is made with a sharp pruner at an angle of 45° with an inclination from the kidney and at a distance not exceeding 0.5 cm from it. The bud should be on the outside of the branch.

The shoot is cut to healthy tissue. Determining the state of the branch is simple: if the core is dark, brown, then the tissues are damaged. The healthy core of the branch is painted white or greenish-white.

Sometimes several sprouts develop from strong buds at once. Of these, only one shoot is left, and all the rest are removed as soon as possible.

All varieties of roses need regular sanitary pruning. Broken, dry, diseased and damaged branches, as well as thin and weak growths are cut to the level of the soil or to a healthy shoot.

To facilitate the care of a rose, before planting a bush, you need to check if there are any wild shoots on it. The discovered sprouts are cut off with a sharp knife or scissors at the base, capturing a little bark.

Intersecting branches are cut so that one of them is below the point of intersection.

The rose bush should not be thickened. So many shoots are left on it to ensure normal air exchange and sufficient illumination.

After pruning young roses, the soil under them is mulched with well-rotted manure or compost.

The video "Pruning rose bushes in spring" shows how this procedure is performed:

Proper pruning of roses in summer

To maintain the decorativeness of the rose during the summer, sanitary pruning is carried out. Summer (sanitary) pruning is carried out from the beginning of the first flowering until the autumn. At the same time, flowers that have lost their attractive appearance are removed. No need to wait until all the petals have completely fallen off: this increases the risk of disease.

As you can see in the photo, during the summer pruning of roses, the flowers are cut off as soon as the petals begin to wilt:

Thus, they provide repeated flowering, cut off diseased, yellowed foliage and sluggish shoots.

Proper pruning of roses in the summer allows you to ensure continuous flowering, as well as prevent the consumption of nutrients for the formation of seeds. The cut is made on the 1st strong kidney. If you simply cut off a flower with a pedicel, buds will awaken on the remaining weak part of the stem. They will grow stunted thin shoots.

At the end of summer, the inflorescences cease to be removed. Otherwise, shoots will still actively form on the bush. They will not have time to ripen by winter and will die from frost.

In order to prevent the development of diseases and pests, shoots that are too thick and growing inside the bush are removed.

The only exception is blooming times per year, a small-flowered climbing rose of the Rambler subgroup, which is cut off immediately after flowering so that replacement shoots appear that can bloom in a year.

Watch a video of pruning roses in the summer to better understand how this agricultural technique is performed:

Rules for pruning roses in autumn (with video)

Autumn pruning of roses is carried out in November. In order not to cause intensive growth of shoots, pruning should be minimal. Usually limited to the removal of flowers and fruits damaged by frost. According to the rules for pruning roses in autumn, the shoots of standard plants are cut off by 1/3, then the crops are covered for the winter. In areas with strong winds, it is advisable to cut stems that are too long by 15–30 cm so that the wind does not shake and damage them.

Autumn pruning is mostly associated with the process of preparing roses for winter period and implementation of shelter. Before sheltering a plant for wintering, after a negative daytime temperature has been established, it is recommended to remove all flowers, foliage, immature, inferior, diseased and broken shoots. Pruning of the main shoots is carried out in accordance with the garden group of roses. All cut parts are removed from the site and burned, as they can become a source of infection.

Here you can find a video of pruning roses in the fall to prepare plants for winter:

Pruning species and miniature roses

Pruning species (wild) and old roses. A species rose eventually grows into a dense, strong bush. Most of these roses do not really need pruning, and they are not recommended to be touched for about 4 years, so that the bush can build up a powerful base.

Long (light) pruning is necessary if the bush grows too much, if it comes into contact with neighboring bushes and damages its shoots, if some branches have begun to die off. First of all, the oldest shoots that are at least 4 years old, located near the ground, need to be pruned in order to stimulate the young growth that gives abundant flowering. The surviving shoots of remontant varieties must be shortened by about a third (Fig. 60); in single-flowering plants, shoots should not be cut at all, since flower bud they basically lay it at the top of the bush.

Pruning roses patio and miniature. The patio rose, as well as the real miniature rose, are smaller versions of the regular large-flowered and multi-flowered roses.

When planting a miniature rose, only the top and deformed shoots are cut off. In subsequent seasons, it is cut in the same way as hybrid tea.

Pruning ground cover and climbing roses

Pruning a ground cover rose. In the spring, sanitary pruning is carried out, and the ends of the shoots are cut into 2–3 buds.

The ground cover rose does not need autumn pruning, only diseased, damaged branches that have not matured, as well as shoots and branches that have lost their decorative effect, and all the foliage remaining on the bush are cut out. Once every 5–6 years, for the purpose of rejuvenation, the bush is cut short, by 5–7 buds.

Curly roses. In roses that bloom several times during the summer, flowers appear on both old and annual shoots. Wilted inflorescences are also removed from plants, side shoots cut into 2-4 eyes. Rejuvenating and thinning pruning is carried out as needed.

In roses that bloom once a summer, flowers appear on perennial shoots. Such plants need regular rejuvenating pruning and thinning. Climbing roses are pruned immediately after flowering, so that the young shoots have time to ripen before the onset of frost.

In varieties with decorative fruits, wilted flowers are not cut.

wild roses. Practically do not require pruning, with the exception of sanitary. If wild roses are grown as bush roses, pruning is carried out accordingly.

Cascading roses. They only need thinning.

Pruning spray, flower bed and repair roses

Bush roses. Varieties that bloom once are not pruned, but only thinned out. Pruning impairs their flowering.

Constantly flowering varieties are pruned. Strong shoots are shortened only slightly, weak ones are cut into 3-4 buds. Every 3-5 years, the bush is thinned out and anti-aging pruning is carried out. When pruning spray roses remove branches growing inside the bush. Old unproductive shoots are cut off near the ground.

Flower bed roses. Weakly growing varieties are cut into 3-4 buds (10-15 cm) to get strong stems.

Medium-growing varieties are cut into 4–6 buds (15–25 cm).

Strong-growing varieties are cut into 8 buds. To rejuvenate the bush, pruning is carried out in the same way as pruning low-growing varieties.

Repair roses. Roses of these varieties are pruned to stimulate the formation of strong basal shoots. Another goal is to form a spherical bush. Its center should be open, and the peripheral stems should be evenly spaced.

Flowers of such roses appear on the growth of the current year. Therefore, they need annual moderate to heavy pruning. Thick stems are cut to 4-6 buds (about 20 cm from the ground). The remaining stems are shortened to 2-4 buds (about 15 cm from the ground). In an adult plant, 2-3 stems are completely removed annually to rejuvenate the bush.

Proper pruning of standard roses

Pruning of standard roses is carried out similarly to that of spray roses, forming a symmetrical crown shape. Shoots that thicken the crown are especially carefully cut off, since a lot of shoots do not contribute to an abundance of flowering.

For standard roses, depending on the garden groups, heavy or light pruning is used. Strong pruning is used for crowns of hybrid tea, floribunda, grand diflora, polyanthus and miniature roses, and light pruning is used for climbing and ground cover roses.

Pruning of climbing boles is carried out by strongly cleaning the crown. Leave a few young strong branches, pruning them to a powerful outer bud.

Their crown should be compact. Drooping varieties are thinned out. The rest are moderately pruned.

In the spring, after planting, the stem crown is cut short with an indent of 10–15 cm from the base of the bush. In subsequent seasons, pruning will depend on the growth potential of the grafted rose, on its group and on the general condition of the plant after overwintering. If the rose survived this period well, it is pruned, leaving 2-3 more buds than the same varieties of spray roses. If the plant did not survive the winter well, it is cut shorter, by 5–7 buds.

In summer, a hybrid tea rose, a floribunda rose and a miniature rose grafted onto a trunk form a symmetrical crown due to pinching shoots of 2–3 buds.

Pruning hybrid tea and polyanthus roses

Hybrid tea rose as a result of the obligatory spring pruning develops flower shoots that will bloom in the same year. In the year of planting, the plant is cut short, by 2-3 buds.

Subsequently, when pruning hybrid tea roses, it is necessary to take into account the varietal specifics:

• a vigorous variety needs long (light) pruning because short pruning often results in blind (non-blooming) shoots. With it, 5–7 buds are left on the shoot;
• when pruning other varieties, medium (moderate) pruning is used. Each one-year-old shoot is cut to 3-5 buds; a strong mature 2-4-year-old shoot has 2-3 buds, depending on the intensity of growth.

A properly formed bush has a maximum of 5 strong shoots, all the rest are removed. The most valuable is the young shoot growing from the base of the bush. It should be carefully preserved, since at its expense the bush is rejuvenated. During the formation of the shoot, a young root begins to sprout. The root system is growing. If such a shoot is removed, the root will not be able to form. Autumn pruning is carried out at a height of 20–30 cm from the base of the bush, leaving 5–7 buds.

Saplings with two or more shoots are pruned in the spring immediately after planting, keeping 2-3 buds each, weak shoots are cut more strongly. Thanks to this, flowers will appear in the first year. I also shorten the roots to about 30 cm (if they were cut back in the nursery, just refresh the cuts). If a rose is planted in the fall, then the roots are shortened to the same indicators, and the shoots are slightly shortened.

Further pruning is associated with the varietal affiliation of flowers. So, varieties that are characterized by active growth are pruned weakly, since otherwise you can get "blind" shoots, that is, shoots that do not give flowers. Other varieties respond well to moderate pruning.

The most valuable are the shoots that appeared from the root zone, as they help to rejuvenate the bush and increase the mass of the root system. If they are cut off, a new root will not develop either.

To get high-quality cut material, hybrid tea roses are cut into 2-3 buds.

Polyanthus roses. When planting polyanthus roses, all weak shoots are cut off, and strong ones are shortened by about 4 buds. Varieties characterized by low height and weak growth are subjected to heavy pruning in the spring, because thanks to this they give a lot of shoots that bloom in the same summer.

Actively growing varieties for early flowering are lightly pruned in the year of planting. next spring weak shoots are cut, strong ones are shortened to a third of their length, and growths on them are 3 buds. Further care involves cutting out all old, weak and thickening shoots, pruning strong shoots also by a third of their length.

Proper pruning of a floribunda rose

In the first season after planting, a strong pruning of floribunda roses is carried out by 3-4 buds. Subsequently, the most optimal pruning for a floribunda group rose is a mixed spring pruning, during which:

• lightly cut some shoots to provoke early flowering of others, by 5–7 buds;
• strongly cut other shoots to stimulate the growth process of renewed basal shoots and get a displaced late flowering, by 2-3 buds.

A properly formed bush has no more than five strong shoots, all the rest are subject to mandatory removal. Autumn pruning is important to produce at a height of 30-35 cm from the base of the bush.

Weak pruning does not allow to preserve the decorativeness of the plant, although it contributes to early flowering, strong pruning depletes the bush, due to which the buds are tied at a later date, and moderate pruning does not provide constant flowering. Therefore, they resort to combined pruning, in which some of the shoots are pruned strongly, while others are weakly pruned. This will allow the bush to keep its shape and bloom earlier.

With further care, all shoots directed deep into the bush are necessarily cut out, annual shoots are cut off by a third, lateral growth is cut off on the shoots of the second year of life, and old shoots are removed if young growth is sufficient.

Proper pruning of a climbing rose (with video)

Subgroup rambler (real climbing, small-flowered climbing). This group includes roses with long (up to 3–4 m) elastic shoots and miniature flowers in large inflorescences. They bloom in June - early July, once, for 30-35 days along the entire length of the shoot that survived the winter.

In the spring of next year, for the correct pruning of climbing roses, it will be possible to slightly shorten the tops of the shoots, but the main pruning falls on the period after the buds have faded. In the process, all faded shoots are completely removed. If this was not done in the summer, they need to be cut in the spring. With proper and complete care, new shoots form on the bush, which will bloom this year.

As shown in the video of pruning climbing roses, in the first year after planting, the bush is cut to 35–40 cm, which forms a huge number of basal shoots:

Flowering in the first year is absent. In all subsequent years, pruning is performed in the same way. In the spring, only sanitary pruning is recommended.

The main pruning of this species is done immediately after flowering is completed, in summer period. The rose of this group blooms on last year's shoots, so those that have faded are cut off at the base of the bush into a ring. At the same time, many replacement shoots are formed, but only 5-10 of them are required to form a bush, the rest must be removed.

Look at the photo - when pruning climbing roses in the fall, only the very top with underdeveloped buds is removed and then sanitary molding is carried out:

This is done for the reason that the climbing rose blooms on last year's shoot, which must be preserved.

Rules for pruning a park rose

Roses of this species need annual formative and sanitary pruning. Weak pruning of park roses activates the appearance of new shoots, contributing to the rejuvenation of the bush and the emergence of abundant long flowering. Due to the development of basal shoots, the mass of roots also increases, which positively affects the vital activity of the whole plant.

In the first two years, it is necessary to create a strong skeleton of the bush, for which all weak shoots, faded flowers, etc. are cut out. In autumn, young shoots are cut to 5 cm, which will make it easier for them to cope with wintering.

Types of park roses that bloom once in the middle of the season are pruned in the spring, removing up to a third of the length of the basal shoots, because due to the abundant flowering, the branches often break off under their own weight. In autumn, strongly grown shoots are also pruned so that they do not break during strong wind or heavy snowfall.

Pruning other types of roses

Climer subgroup (climbing, climbing large-flowered rose). The flowers of this group reach 2–3 m in height, they have large flowers collected in small inflorescences. It blooms profusely and for a long time, some varieties bloom repeatedly.

The flower is formed on the shoot of the 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th order, that is, it blooms for 4 or more years. At the same time, flowering becomes weaker year after year, therefore, when growing roses of this group, it is required to leave 2–4 summer shoots.

Sanitary pruning is carried out in the spring. If possible, some lashes are formed horizontally or at an angle (this technique helps to avoid exposing the bottom of the bush).

During the summer, after the removal of flowers that have lost their decorative effect, the shoot is shortened by 3–4 buds, which stimulates re-blooming.

During the autumn, only the top is shortened at the shoot, and rejuvenating pruning is carried out at the old bush. It is forbidden to cut all shoots: low pruning contributes to a return to the bush form, since most of the varieties of this group are any of climbing varieties spray roses, also the plant may stop blooming.

Semi-climbing and spray roses. Before planting, the tops of the shoots and roots are shortened, and unviable growth is also removed. The next year, in the spring, weak shoots are completely cut out, and strong ones are reduced by a third of their length.

Pruning shrub rose, scrub rose and English rose. Such a rose can only bloom on a two-year-old or more mature shoot. In the spring, it is necessary to carry out sanitary pruning and make the shoots shorter by 3-4 buds, and also remove the brushes with the fruits of the last season, so that the bush can bloom earlier.

In autumn, you should also remove all thickened, old, sluggish, deformed, diseased shoots at the base of the bush on a ring so that they cannot grow back. After pruning, 3–7 stems will remain, half of which must be shortened by 2 times. Side shoots from all surviving stems are subject to removal, and tops are cut into 3–5 buds. In the end, you will get a bush with shoots of various lengths.

During the spring period, it should grow and continue its flowering from spring to autumn. They rejuvenate the park rose with a strong pruning to the base of the bush, save 3-4 buds to provoke the growth of "sleeping buds".

Rose pruning tools

Many growers don't like to prune roses because they have to deal with thorny stems. However, if pruned correctly, the development of the plant will improve, it will become more abundant and more beautiful to bloom. In young seedlings, pruning improves the formation of the root system, which begins to develop faster.

Also, due to pruning, young shoots appear and vegetate more actively. Removing dry and old parts of the bushes allows you to ensure the correct distribution of nutrients throughout the plant. Pruning also contributes to the flow to all parts of the bush fresh air, which helps prevent the development of diseases, in particular black rot.

This operation requires a lot of time, in addition, it requires some practice and special tools.

To prune roses, first of all, you need to arm yourself with secateurs and gloves to help avoid damaging your hands. In order to get to hard-to-reach stems, as well as to get rid of faded buds from climbing roses, use a long-handled lopper.

All tools should be kept clean and thoroughly washed and dried after each cut. It is also recommended to wash the tools after cutting each individual bush: in this case, the spread of the disease can be prevented if one of them was infected.

How to prune roses in spring, summer and autumn?

Before starting the operation, you need to assess the condition of the bush and decide which pruning method to choose, because the latter depends on the type of rose and the goals for which this manipulation is carried out. So, autumn pruning carried out more rigidly, as a result of which the bush can be shortened to 40 cm in height. Spring pruning is carried out in order to ensure the penetration of fresh air and sunlight to the stems and leaves.

It is recommended that cuts be made at an angle of 45°, and they should be neat, without torn or chewed edges. When pruning, dry, broken and affected parts of the bushes, as well as thin and weak shoots, should be removed. If the seedlings have whitened and thin shoots after storage, they must also be cut off, otherwise the plant will die. On grafted roses, it is necessary to cut off the shoots that appear below the rootstock, since otherwise the cultivated part of the plant can die.

After trimming, the cut site should be treated with an antiseptic, which will help prevent possible infection. As such an antiseptic, it is permissible to use a solution of brilliant green.

Seven types of pruning roses

There are seven types of rose pruning, which depend on the time they are held and the type of crop.

1. Basic (shaping) pruning. Carried out in the spring. It pursues the following goals: stimulation of the growth of new shoots from the renewal buds; regulation of flowering time; guarantee of abundant and lush flowering throughout growing season plants; maintaining the shape of the bush, which is characteristic of garden rose. This pruning is carried out taking into account the biological characteristics of the group and variety of roses.

2. Sanitary pruning. It is carried out in order to form a healthy strong bush with lush and long flowering, as well as to prevent the occurrence of diseases and pests. This type of pruning is performed as needed throughout the growing season (in spring, summer and autumn periods), it is the same for all groups. It implies the following stages: removal of old flowers that have lost their attractiveness and decorative effect, thereby ensuring their subsequent flowering; pruning diseased yellowed foliage in order to prevent the further development of diseases and pests; pruning interfering with each other shoots; removal of shoots that thicken the crown and grow inside the bush, thereby providing excessive ventilation and direct sunlight access to all foliage and buds; spring pruning of all frozen, dry, brown, diseased shoots to a healthy place, autumn pruning of unripened and weak shoots; in case the rose is grafted, the shoots are removed at the very base.

3. Anti-aging pruning. It is carried out in order to rejuvenate the bush, as well as to stimulate the growth of young abundantly flowering growth and to form replacement shoots, which will later become the skeleton of the bush. It is applicable to all types of roses if the plant has slowed down its growth rate, has begun to bloom less abundantly, or has become bare at the bottom. Pruning is carried out on shoots older than 4 years to form strong young shoots. During the procedure, the old hardened shoots are removed completely in the spring or immediately after flowering (species, old and park roses), or cut into 3-4 buds from the bottom of the bush and removed immediately after the formation of replacement shoots.

4. Long pruning. When using long pruning, it is customary to leave at least two-thirds of the stem, in other words, the shoots that have survived after lightening the bush are subjected to slight shortening. This method widely used in the implementation of pruning species, old, park and English roses, as well as vigorous varieties of tea-hybrid group. If it is necessary to induce earlier flowering of individual shoots, light pruning is applied among other groups. With regular use of long pruning, the bush is very stretched and blooms poorly, although it blooms earlier than it should. For this reason, you can not limit yourself to only light pruning for several years in a row.

Long pruning is used when planting seedlings and after cleaning the winter shelter. Suitable for hybrid tea and garden roses.

5. Moderate pruning. By moderate is meant pruning at about half the height, at which shoots are left at the level of the 4-5th bud from the base of the bush. A weakened shoot is cut short or removed completely. Moderate pruning is used for any group of roses, with the exception of climbing, specific, old, English and park rose. In addition, with the help of medium pruning, a bush is formed.

6. Short cut. When performing short pruning, the shoot is cut at the level of the first three buds from the base of the bush, as a result, a shoot 15–20 cm high remains.

It is used in the spring pruning of patio roses, adult hybrid tea roses, miniature roses, and rambler climbing roses a year after planting and as a rejuvenating pruning method for all other rose groups.

Short pruning is carried out during the spring planting of seedlings. It is suitable for climbing roses, if you need to stimulate the growth of new shoots so that they bloom the next year.

7. Combined pruning use, if necessary, to form bushes of some varieties of roses (primarily the type of floribunda). Thanks to this type of pruning, the bush during the flowering period looks more elegant.

When the rose bush lacks internal forces to continue flowering, or when flowering comes to an end, its flowers begin to wither, so they must be removed. This process is known as "dead bud pruning", which is done to preserve the attractive appearance of the rose bush and encourage continued flowering. Pruning causes the rose to form new shoots and buds instead of wasting energy on fading flowers or seed formation. During flowering, you should regularly remove fading flowers from the rose bush until the branches begin to stiffen in preparation for winter.

Steps

Part 1

Preparing for pruning faded buds

Part 2

Pruning for the correct subsequent formation of shoots

Find a rose leaf that faces the direction you want. When examining a rose bush, you should note that its leaves consist of smaller leaves, united on the leaf stalk in groups of three or five. For the correct pruning of a rose, its branch must be cut directly above desired sheet consisting of 5 or more small leaves. This sheet of five leaves (called a true leaf) should grow in the direction in which you want to grow a new shoot. For example, if you want the new shoot to face outward, then cut off the branch above the leaf that also points outward from the bush.

1. Pay attention to the growing point. Directly above the junction of the leaf cutting with the branch, you can notice a dark dot. This point is a growth point from which a new shoot can subsequently grow and bloom. You need to prune the branch above the growing point.

   • If you need to cut and remove wilted flowers from a large number of bushes, then it is not necessary to check for a growing point each time. Luckily, the growing points of roses are very close to the leaves, so you just need to prune about 5mm above the desired leaf.

2. Cut the branch at a 45 degree angle. In no case should you cut perpendicular to the branch. A beveled cut will help to ensure that the water that falls on it drains quickly and does not provoke the development of a fungal infection on the shoot.

   • There are diametrically opposed opinions about pruning roses at an angle of 45 degrees. Some sources claim that pruning at an angle does not affect the healing process of the cut, nor the subsequent number of flowers on the new shoot.
   • Consider treating each fresh cut with a dab of PVA glue. This will reduce the risk of infection of the bush with any disease through the injured area.

• If you want to reduce the size of a rose bush, cut branches closer to its base. This is especially necessary for fast-growing varieties of roses, such as english roses David Austin. However, the lower the pruning is, the more time it will take for the rose to form new shoots with buds.
• If you do not cut off faded roses, then seeds and rose hips will begin to form from them. Pruning will allow you to enjoy the rose for longer in its growing season.
• Cut young and tender rose shoots can be thrown into compost pit. However, stiff, thick branches of roses should not be thrown there, as they will take too long to decompose compared to young branches.

What could be more beautiful than blooming roses. In every garden - small, spacious - roses create an atmosphere of romance, fabulousness and discreet luxury. Roses look spectacular both in the flower bed and in separate plantings.

But in order for roses to bloom luxuriously and please the eye, you need to take care of them. One of the main aspects of caring for these beauties is proper pruning, and this should be done regularly and professionally.

By cutting roses, we determine the number of young shoots, therefore, we create conditions for the formation of a large number of young shoots.

We also send the power of the plant to its development, influence the lush flowering and lengthen the lifespan. Therefore, proper pruning of roses is very important. Pruning roses is not a difficult procedure, however different groups require a specific approach.

Rose pruning period

Spring is the best time to prune roses. Forsythia blooms can tell you when to pick pruners. As soon as the forsythia is covered with golden flowers, and the buds begin to swell at the bottom of the rose bushes, then you can start pruning. Somewhere at the end of April.

If you cut roses earlier, then during frosts, the cut shoots will freeze. Then the lush flowering of the rose will come later. If you linger with pruning, the rose will spend its energy on the growth of new foliage and shoots. As a result, the plant will be weak, and the flowering will not be lush.

Wild shoots, which often appear below the graft, are cut off. To do this, you need to expose root collar and cut it off at the base.

When pruning roses in summer, faded flowers should be removed, thus ensuring re-blooming. In autumn, it is necessary to cut off overgrown rose bushes, remove branches affected by fungi.

But the main pruning of roses is carried out, as noted earlier, in the spring, when it is clear which branches have not overwintered, and on which swollen buds are visible.

Basic rules for pruning roses

First of all, when pruning roses, you need to consider on which shoots the plant forms flowers: on last year's or on the shoots of this year. Next, you should clearly know what you want from this pruning: early and abundant flowering, or a certain shape of the bush.

Exist general rules to be carried out.

It is necessary to work with a sharpened tool (garden knife, pruner, file) so as not to make torn cuts. The tool must be well cleaned and disinfected.

It is necessary to wash it in boiling water, and treat the blade with a disinfectant, for example, alcohol. Because with each incision, pathogens of various diseases stick to garden tool and possibly be transferred to other plants.

Old shoots differ from young shoots in the color of the bark.

It is necessary to remove all old, weak, diseased, dead, and shoots growing inward.

The shoots of roses are cut off above the kidney. Buds are the rudiments of shoots that form in the axils of the leaves. On old branches, these are dormant buds that wake up immediately after pruning.

Pruning species spray roses

Shrub roses do not need constant pruning. Species spray roses form flowers on the shoots of last year, so they need last year's branches for lush flowering.

Every few years, the oldest shoots are removed to rejuvenate the bush. It is necessary to cut the shoots near the ground to stimulate the growth of young shoots. Pruning old shoots at the top of the bush will result in exposure. If spray roses are not cut at all, the bushes will age prematurely.

Pruning ground cover roses

These roses are not pruned. Remove frozen, broken shoots. To rejuvenate the bush, it is necessary to carry out a radical pruning 5 years after planting.

Pruning hybrid tea roses and floribunda roses

This group is united by the most noble roses, for them spring pruning is vital. Due to spring pruning, roses develop flower shoots, and they begin to bloom in the same year.

The density of pruning roses depends on the vigor of certain varieties. In low-growing varieties, 4 buds are left on the main shoot, and in vigorous roses - 7 buds. The more pruned floribunda roses are, the larger the new flowering growth will be.

Therefore, in low-growing varieties, it is necessary to shorten the shoots strongly so that new ones grow better. In miniature roses, shoots can be cut up to 10 cm, leaving the top bud.

Before pruning, it is necessary to remove the mound of earth that protected the grafting site in winter. Delete old branches as well.

Pruning spray roses

English roses are cut to 1/3 of the length. Spray roses should have an even mix of annuals, biennials, and perennial shoots.

Pruning reblooming climbing roses

Very beautiful re-blooming roses require annual pruning. Remove shoots growing in the wrong direction. To stimulate the lush flowering of roses, the side shoots are shortened. To rejuvenate old specimens of roses, shoots that are older than 6 years are completely removed.

How to prune single bloom climbing roses

These roses include ramblers. They grow very fast, the shoots of these roses grow up to 10 meters. With such dimensions, it is very difficult to trim. As a rule, these roses do not need pruning.

Climbing roses are pruned in the summer, immediately after flowering. Faded shoots are shortened by 20 cm.

How to prune standard roses

These roses are grafted onto a trunk. The purpose of pruning a standard rose is to give the crown a beautiful neat appearance. To achieve this, the bush is cut into 3 buds and the shoots growing inside are removed.

For roses on medium and high stems, pruning is carried out depending on the garden group and the grafted variety. Cascading and drooping standard roses thin out a little. Also remove the shoots that grow from the roots.

Pruning roses is necessary primarily for regular rejuvenation and maintaining health. Pruning also achieve a good shape of the bush, lush and long flowering.

To many rose lovers, pruning seems to be a complex and mysterious process. To master the secrets of pruning roses, you need to stock up on a good tool, get acquainted with the basic principles common to all types of roses, and master the pruning technique.

Necessary set of tools: side cutters with sharp blades of two types (for cutting thick and young shoots), garden shears with long handles for cutting in hard-to-reach places, a garden saw for trimming very thick shoots and removing old stumps, and a garden knife for trimming low-quality cuts. Thick gloves are needed to protect the hands from thorns, and to protect the cut surface from possible infection, garden var or a special paste called "Rannet", convenient to use.

Basic principles and techniques for pruning roses
Growth buds (eyes) are located in the axils of the leaves. After leaf fall, they are clearly visible above the leaf scars. The higher the buds are, the faster they germinate. At the bottom of the rose shoot are "sleeping buds", which, before germinating, must go through several stages in their development. Pruning to immature buds delays flowering. Pruning should provide the possibility of airing the crown and access of leaves and buds to the light. The rose should, if possible, be cut to the outer buds and not thicken the center of the bush. The cut should be smooth, without torn edges, no closer than 0.5 cm from the kidney and with a slight slope from it. Pruning should be done to a healthy (white) core. When several shoots appear in the axil of one leaf, it is necessary to remove all but one at an early stage.

You need to start pruning all types of roses by removing dead, diseased and frost-damaged stems, as well as thin and weak growths. Such pruning is called sanitary or thinning.

In order to avoid the spread of diseases, the removed parts of the plants should be burned. You can only work with a serviceable, clean and well-sharpened tool.

Rose pruning types

Strong (short) pruning, at the level of 2-4 buds from the base of the shoots, is usually used when spring planting seedlings, in case of rejuvenation of old bushes or as a last chance for weakened bushes of hybrid tea roses.

Medium (moderate) pruning, at the level of 5-7 buds, stimulates early flowering and provides maximum decorative effect.

Weak (long) pruning is a slight shortening of the shoots and is used as a summer pruning to remove faded inflorescences. For ground cover roses and some scrubs, this type of pruning is essential for at least a few years, after which heavy pruning may be needed to rejuvenate the bush.

Combined pruning. Experienced rose growers often use various combinations of the listed types and achieve almost continuous flowering. Combined pruning - The best way to prolong the flowering of floribunda roses.

Timing for pruning roses

There are spring, summer and autumn pruning of roses.

The spring pruning is the most important, sometimes referred to as the main pruning. It is held annually, although its scale for different garden groups and even varieties within the same group can vary significantly. After opening the roses, sanitary pruning is carried out, leaving only live shoots. With the onset of bud swelling, the main pruning is carried out, the volume of which depends on the age and condition of the bush.

Summer pruning is carried out in a minimum volume, faded flowers and inflorescences are removed to the first developed bud. hybrid tea roses cut with part of the stem to the first true leaf. Timely removal of faded flowers prolongs the flowering period.

Autumn pruning is mainly related to climatic risks and shelter techniques. In warm climates, roses do not need pruning in autumn. In our conditions, almost all roses, to one degree or another, require winter protection. It is necessary to remove the unripened parts of the shoots and shorten the roses to the height of the shelter. At the same time, it should be remembered that strong pruning harms climbing large-flowered roses and straight-growing powerful scars, therefore, when sheltering, they are bent to the ground.

Pruning hybrid tea roses

Before planting, roses need heavy pruning in spring, and moderate pruning in autumn. Hybrid tea roses bloom on current year's growth and need moderate annual pruning. This ensures good branching and the formation of young shoots. Powerful varieties do not tolerate heavy pruning, after which they can produce non-flowering shoots. At the same time, constant light pruning can interfere with the rejuvenation of the bush and reduce flowering. If the rose blooms only on the tops of tall shoots, the base of the bush is exposed and the number of young shoots is reduced, measures must be taken. Some of the oldest shoots that have reduced flowering should be cut to the base, while others should be heavily pruned. Young shoots are pruned moderately. Experienced rose growers avoid such situations and use combined pruning.

floribunda rose pruning

Usually these roses look more overgrown and branched, despite the annual pruning. After sanitary pruning, shoots growing towards the center of the bush can be removed or cut to the outer bud. Then one part of the remaining main shoots is cut off strongly, the other - moderately. Lateral shoots on the main stems are shortened to 2-3 buds.
Combined pruning for floribunda roses is the best solution. Some of the shoots are stimulated for early flowering, and the other - for the growth of basal shoots and a later wave of flowering.

Pruning climbing large-flowered roses

The most difficult group of roses for conditions where they need serious winter protection. As a rule, when winter shelter these roses suffer not so much from frost as from damage to powerful shoots when they are bent down. For those who love roses of this group, it is better to choose varieties with relatively plastic shoots. In the spring, after the opening of roses, it is necessary to carry out sanitary pruning. After that, the main shoots should be cut to the top overwintered bud, some too long shoots can be slightly shortened (to give the bush a neat shape). Lateral shoots need to be cut, leaving 2-3 buds. In summer, faded flowers and inflorescences are removed with part of the stem to the nearest leaf.

Pruning rambler climbing roses

The main base for the next year's flowering of these once-blooming roses is the young growing shoots of the current season. Old shoots sharply reduce flowering. Necessary condition abundant flowering - young replacement shoots should appear annually and mature for a good overwintering. For this purpose, faded shoots older than two years of age are cut out immediately after flowering, and young growing shoots are pinched in early September by 3-4 buds. In the spring, after sanitary pruning, the degree of thickening of the bush should be assessed, since overgrown bushes bloom weaker and are poorly ventilated. Too dense bushes may suffer from powdery mildew and in some cases serve as a permanent source of infection. It is enough to leave 5-7 young shoots and 3 two-year-old ones, the rest should be completely removed. Lateral branches on two-year-old shoots should be shortened to 15 cm.

Pruning roses Modern Shrub

In Russia, roses of this group are considered semi-climbing, in some countries they are called modern shrub roses, in others - landscape. Most of the roses in this large and complex group are voluminous and, in warmer climates, are undemanding to heavy and frequent pruning. When pruning, one should take into account the strength of growth and the degree of development, not only different varieties but for every plant. The main task of pruning is to achieve a uniform and compact shape of the bush. Under all conditions, diseased and shoots directed inside the bush are removed. Major escapes in high grades(from 1.3 m) should be shortened by no more than a third. If the height of the variety does not exceed 1.2 m, you can cut it in half. In the presence of a large number of long side branches, they can be cut by two-thirds. If the side shoots are short, then they are cut to 10 cm. In hedges of roses in this group, traditional pruning is not used. To achieve maximum decorativeness in the spring, only dead branches are removed, and all shoots are cut evenly, about half the height. Subsequently, thinning (rejuvenating) pruning may be needed, the volume of which will depend on the age and condition of the bushes.