Merging sheets in excel. Merge Sheets: Collect data from multiple sheets into one pivot sheet in seconds

Suppose you have several sales reports for different regions. If you want to perform calculations and draw graphs on the entire amount of data, you need to collect all the data on one summary sheet. Switching between multiple workbooks, copying hundreds of lines endlessly, or writing VBA can take a long time.

With the Merge Sheets add-on, you can collect data into one pivot sheet in seconds:

Collect sheet data from different workbooks on one sheet
Collect sheet data with the same name and merge by tab name
Merge sheet data with identical structure under one heading
Keep Formatting in Result Pivot Sheet

Add "Merge Sheets" to Excel 2019, 2016, 2013, 2010

Suitable for: Microsoft Excel 2019 - 2010, desktop Office 365 (32-bit and 64-bit).

How to work with the add-on:

How to merge data from multiple sheets into one into one in 3 steps

With the Merge Sheets add-in, you can collect and merge data from multiple sheets—and from different workbooks—into one master sheet in just 3 steps:

1. Click the Merge Sheets button on the XLTools panel > Select the type of operation:

Merge sheet data with the same name on one sheet

2. Mark the sheets that are tedious to merge. The data tree displays all sheets in all open workbooks.

3. Click the Merge button > Done! All data is copied to one master summary sheet.

How to combine data from multiple sheets in one pivot sheet

Let's say you have a series of sheets, and each sheet contains a sales report for a specific product category. The add-in will help you copy all these individual reports and combine the data into one summary sheet.

Click the Merge Sheets button > Select Merge Data from Multiple Sheets into One Sheet.
Click the Merge button > Done, all the data from the selected sheets are merged into one master sheet in the new workbook.

How to combine data from sheets with the same name on one pivot sheet

Let's say you have a number of books, and each one contains a regional sales report. Each report is divided into sheets with data on specific products - thus, the tabs in regional reports have the same name. The add-in will help you copy the data for all reports into one summary sheet.

Click the "Merge Sheets" button > Select "Merge data from sheets with the same name into one sheet".
Check the "Tables with headers" box if so.
Tip: so, the data will be combined under a single heading. This is convenient if the structure of the sheets you are merging is uniform, for example, if the reports are created according to the same template. If the headers do not match, each data range will be added with its own header.
Select the sheets to merge by checking the appropriate checkboxes in the data tree.
Tip: instead of merging sheets with the same name into groups one by one (one name group after another), you can select them all at once. The add-in will automatically collect data on the same tab names and display them on the corresponding separate sheets of the summary book.
Click the Merge button > Done, all the data of the selected sheets with the same name are collected in a new summary workbook.

How data is copied to the pivot sheet

Merging data essentially means extracting and copying data from multiple source sheets to a new sheet.

The data is copied completely - the entire range up to the last used cell on the original sheet.
The copied ranges are added sequentially, one range under the last line of the previous range.
The XLTools Merge Sheets add-in preserves cell and table formatting, cell references, functions and formulas, merged cells, and more.
The original data is not changed.

How to merge multiple sheets into one workbook

You can combine multiple sheets into one book using the XLTools Book Organizer add-on. It helps you copy and manage multiple sheets at the same time.

Got questions or suggestions? Leave a comment below.

To summarize and report results from separate worksheets, you can consolidate data from each sheet into a master worksheet. The sheets can be in the same workbook as the master worksheet, or in other workbooks. When you consolidate data, you assemble data so that you can more easily update and aggregate as necessary.

For example, if you have an expense worksheet for each of your regional offices, you might use consolidation to roll these figures into a master corporate expense worksheet. This master worksheet might also contain sales totals and averages, current inventory levels, and highest selling products for the entire enterprise.

tip: If you frequently consolidate data, it might help to create new worksheets from a worksheet template that uses a consistent layout. To learn more about Templates, see: Create a template. This is also an ideal time to set up your template with Excel tables .

Ways to consolidate data

There are two ways to consolidate data, either by position or category.

Consolidation by position: The data in the source areas has the same order, and uses the same labels. Use this method to consolidate data from a series of worksheets, such as departmental budget worksheets that have been created from the same template.

Consolidation by category: When the data in the source areas is not arranged in the same order but uses the same labels. Use this method to consolidate data from a series of worksheets that have different layouts but have the same data labels.

Consolidating data by category is similar to creating a PivotTable. With a PivotTable, however, you can easily reorganize the categories. Consider creating a PivotTable if you need more flexible consolidation by category.

Note: The examples in this article were created with Excel 2016. Though your view may differ if you"re using another version of Excel, the steps are the same.

How to consolidate

Follow these steps to consolidate several worksheets into a master worksheet:

Use a formula to consolidate data

If the data to consolidate is in different cells on different worksheets:

Enter a formula with cell references to the other worksheets, one for each separate worksheet. For example, to consolidate data from worksheets named Sales (in cell B4), HR (in cell F5), and Marketing (in cell B9), in cell A2 of the master worksheet, you would enter the following:

tip: To enter a cell reference-such as Sales!B4-in a formula without typing, type the formula up to the point where you need the reference, then click the worksheet tab, and then click the cell. Excel will complete the sheet name and cell address for you. NOTE: formulas in such cases can be error-prone, since it's very easy to accidentally select the wrong cell. It can also be difficult to spot a mistake after entering a complex formula.

If the data to consolidate is in the same cells on different worksheets:

Enter a formula with a 3-D reference that uses a reference to a range of worksheet names. For example, to consolidate data in cells A2 from Sales through Marketing inclusive, in cell E5 of the master worksheet you would enter the following:

Need more help?

You can always ask an expert in the Excel Tech Community , get support in the Answers community , or suggest a new feature or improvement on

If the data that you want to analyze is on multiple sheets or in multiple workbooks, you can combine it on a single sheet using the Consolidate command. For example, if you have a separate expense sheet for each regional office, you can use consolidation to create a corporate expense sheet based on this data. Such a sheet might contain totals and averages of sales, current inventory levels, and most popular products across the organization.

The type of consolidation should be chosen taking into account how the sheets to be merged look like. If the data on the sheets is arranged in a uniform way (the names of the rows and columns may differ), use the consolidation by location. If the same row and column names are used on the sheets for the corresponding categories (the data may be arranged differently), use category consolidation.

Consolidation by location

Consolidation by category

Avg., and the other - The average

Consolidation by location

To consolidate by location, the range of data on each of the source worksheets must be in list format with no blank rows or columns.

Consolidation by category

To consolidate by category, the data range on each of the source sheets must be in list format with no blank rows or columns. In addition, the categories must be named the same. For example, if one of the columns is called Avg., and the other - The average, the consolidation will not sum those columns.

I would like to talk about two enough simple ways to bind magazines and books, as well as separate sheets from various magazines with articles you need, for example, about cooking. Over time, such book-bound magazines will make an excellent library. In the years of stagnation, when good books were in short supply, I collected "fiction" published in the magazines "Technology of Youth" and "Ural Pathfinder", in which the stories and novels that interested me were published with sequels. The methods of binding that I want to offer here, I have not yet seen anywhere in the literature. Of course, I didn’t come up with them myself, but I spied on one specialist from the city of Priuralsk.

How to bind a book at home

Usually, when binding, individual sheets are stacked, in which, stepping back from the edge of the spine, holes are punched, drilled or pierced, and then the sheets are sewn using these holes. However, as a result of this technology, part of the text is difficult to read, especially on those sheets on which the text is located very close to the edge of the sheet from the side of the spine of the future book.

The book, formed from sheets using the technology proposed below, is to some extent spared from such a drawback. At the initial stage of binding work, in both cases, the same operations are carried out: the sheets are stacked, trimmed along the lower and leading edges, the upper edge can be trimmed later. After all, as you know, sheets even from the same magazine, but from different issues, usually do not match in format. Then the stack is compressed using a press, vice or clamp. The simplest clamping option is two even boards (two metal corners), bolted on both sides (Fig. 1). Clamp the stack (from the side of the spine) in a vise so that the narrowest sheet peeks out of the vise by about 5 mm (see Fig. 1). Then, the spine is cleaned with a large file, removing strongly protruding edges of the sheets, and then the transverse grooves are sawn through with a hacksaw or a jigsaw in the spine (the number of grooves is at your discretion) to a depth of 1.5 ... 2 mm. This is the main feature of the proposed binding technology. After all, if the sheets are punched or drilled at such a distance from the edge, then the threads threaded into the holes will inevitably break through the edges of the sheets. So you can place holes from the edge of the block at a distance of at least 1 ... 1.5 cm, which will certainly lead to a "capture" of the text.

Having made cuts, the block (package) is installed with the spine up. Next, the spine is smeared with PVA glue (or bustilate), diluted thinner, so that it penetrates into the gaps between the sheets, as well as into the cuts. Then, pieces of nylon or other strong thread are placed in the cuts so that the ends go beyond the spine by about 2 ... 3 cm (Fig. 2, a) or (as you like) the spine is pulled together with one long thread (Fig. 2, b). In conclusion, the entire spine is once again smeared with glue. When the glue dries, the ends of the threads are cut off and the block is made into a light cover, that is, they simply glue a thick paper cover to the spine and paste the endpapers. (Bookends are the first and also the last double sheets of the block, connecting it to the cover. - Editor's note.) Sheets will no longer pop out of such a book, as from cheap store-bought paperbacks. In a similar way, the aforementioned store books that have crumbled are also strengthened. But still, in both cases, it is better to make a hard cover instead of a soft cover.

When making a hard cover, a piece of fabric or gauze is glued onto the spine of the block using a polyvinyl acetate emulsion (Fig. 3), so that parts of a piece of fabric 2–3 cm wide extend beyond the side edges of the spine. braids with a roller on the edge (bright cloth patches folded in half are also suitable). However, you can capitalize and not do it. Next, cut out two cover covers from cardboard. The width of each cover must be equal to the width of the glued block. There are many different options for making caps, but I want to offer what I think is the simplest one. Having cut out the cardboard covers, I select a beautiful fabric, oilcloth, leader, etc. A blank of the book’s clothes is cut out of the binding material, not forgetting to provide 2 ... 3 cm allowances-fields from the top, bottom and front edges. The distance between the covers is equal to the spine width plus 2×8 mm (Fig. 4, a). Between the covers on a workpiece of material, you can glue a lag - a strip of thick paper or drawing paper (the width of the strip is equal to the width of the block). The lids are carefully coated with PVA and glued to the workpiece of clothes, smoothing well so that there are no bubbles. Then the edges of the workpiece are wrapped on the covers (Fig. 4, b), glued to them, and the finished cover is dried under pressure.

We are preparing two endpapers, each of which is a white sheet of paper folded in half. We glue one half of the sheet to the cover (Fig. 6), and the other to the outer sheet of the block, and the endpaper is not completely glued to the sheet, leaving a 1 cm wide strip adjacent to the endpaper fold without glue.

Everything, the binding is finished, and the book is placed under the press. Of course, I do not know professional terms, but it seems to me that I have stated everything clearly.

I also want to offer a notebook method of binding magazines. It is somewhat different from the traditional one, when holes are formed along the spine edges of the magazines, for example, with a hole punch, and the magazines are pulled together with a cord. It is clear that in this case part of the text is not always readable. My notebook method is devoid of this drawback, since the entire binding is made on the outside of the spine.

First, put all the magazines in a pile and mark the places of future punctures in the roots along the ruler (Fig. 7).

Then they take the last issue of the magazine and with a large needle, follow the marks, sew it through the middle, forming three or five stitches (Fig. 8, a). I note that with such firmware, the “native” metal clips of magazines can even be removed. The next magazine, laid on top, is stitched in the same way, but in the opposite direction. After each firmware, the thread is pulled, removing the backlash (slackness). Having finished the firmware of the second magazine, the thread (with a needle) is connected with the end of the thread protruding from the lower magazine (Fig. 8, b). It is clear that the third magazine is stitched similarly to the first, and at the end of the seam, its thread is connected with the thread of the seam of the second magazine, prying the first stitch of the seam of this magazine with a needle.

For strength, the threads of the seams of all magazines are knitted at the points of their entry and exit (see Fig. 7). In principle, such a binder can already be used. But it is better to clamp the stitched stack in a press (vise) and coat the spine with liquid PVA glue.

After drying, a solid block is already obtained. And of course, it is better to make a hardcover for the stack, as described above. It is desirable to trim the edges, but if the magazines are the same, then you can not do this. And then without training, the cut will turn out to be a curve.

all materials of the section "Ideas for the master"

Previous publications:

If you need to print big poster at home without resorting to the services of a plotter - then this article is for you. But how can this be done? You can break our document into a large number of small fragments and print it on A4 sheets with your home printer. As a result, we get a large, almost seamless poster. In this article, we'll take a closer look at two methods. print a poster - no additional software required, only by standard means, and also consider a special program that can print with a simple home printer big poster. As always, the article will contain detailed instructions on how to quickly achieve the desired result. Let's say we have a large document, a picture, a graph, a map of the area - in general, anything from which we need to make a large poster. We will need a printer, a pair of scissors, PVA glue and half an hour of time. If everything is ready, let's get started!

To print a large poster from A4 sheets, you can do without additional software. There are many options for setting up printing in the standard printer software.

Among other things, there (in most cases) there is such a function as “printing a poster”. It is she who will help us print any document on a variety of A4 sheets. Thus, after gluing the sheets, we will get a large poster or picture on the wall. If this is the result you are trying to achieve, then let's look at an example.

Example: How to print a poster from multiple A4 sheets

Open the picture or document from which you want to make a large poster and press "print" or the keyboard shortcut "Ctrl + P". You should have a similar menu (see Fig1)

in which you need to select the properties of your printer.

Set the page size and the desired orientation of the sheets (Portrait or Landscape). Then, scrolling down a bit (in my Page Layout section) you need to find “Print Poster”. Standard poster print sizes are 4 sheets. This means that your picture will be divided into four fragments, which will be printed by the printer. After putting these pieces together like a puzzle, you will get a large drawing. If the size of 4 A4 sheets does not suit you, click the "Set" button.

Here you can specify a different number of segments into which your image will be divided. And also (very conveniently) you need to check the box “Cut lines in the margins” and on each sheet there will be an edge (Cut) that needs to be cut evenly and a field (Paste) is marked on which you need to apply glue and apply the next fragment of our large poster. All settings are made - we send everything to print. The result is an almost seamless large poster. If you are satisfied - then we have achieved the desired result by standard means.

But as you can see, there are quite a few settings for printing a poster. That is why there are special programs for printing large posters on A4. They allow more flexible partitioning. We will talk about this in another part of the article.

Conference > Chatter > Questions and Answers > Is there a way to glue sheets of paper together

View Full Version : Is there a way to glue sheets of paper together

Is there a way to glue sheets of paper together so that it looks like it's one sheet?
Do not offer adhesive tape and ordinary types of glue

26-07-2006, 19:14

Wallpaper!!!
Sheets of paper are glued together and it seems that this is one sheet!: D

daughter of Monroe and Kennedy

26-07-2006, 21:17

how are they glued?

27-07-2006, 01:13

No no and one more time no.

27-07-2006, 01:16

Ya can… in photoshop 🙂

yes, it’s just that a person doesn’t know how to make a double-sided printing in order to print normal money 😀

Hare[True]

27-07-2006, 04:28

Boogago!!! let him draw by hand) and at night he buys seeds from grandmothers)!

tried it - didn't work...
the grandmothers rebelled and atpisdili with a friendly talpa: D

You need to press :D

28-07-2006, 00:14

try saliva! 😀

you can electrify ... however, this is not for long))))

pps better go to work....

young counterfeiter

28-07-2006, 01:22

pasted on a leveled wall 😉

read the code and think, what a cruel article to fuck (a fake of a state sign), is it worth it to sit for 20 years for 1000 rubles

03-08-2006, 23:37

spit - sure! 😀

03-08-2006, 23:55

and how to glue flat to flat or edge to edge.

07-08-2006, 04:13

Tex... if this topic was created again about counterfeiting money .. then I should (again) upset you... DON'T EVEN THINK!

ps But in general (the old grandfather's way) rub with garlic :)))) ... try it.

Whom to rub with garlic? Counterfeiter?...:rolleyes: :confused:

07-08-2006, 17:41

Uh-huh ... and guess what place:%))))

paper of course!

😀 😀 😀 idiots
it was necessary to glue 2 sheets of a4 paper to get an a3 sheet - because. from the Ovirov questionnaire it was necessary to make the Foreign Ministry one.
The question is no longer relevant.
Thank you all for the flattering assessment of my abilities.

question two
if you slap a print from a Canon photo printer on medium quality paper - how easy is it to distinguish it from the original (given that no one has seen the original except me?)

madam, use the correct Russian language so that there are no more offers to rub you with garlic or plant you.

well, if you don’t look especially carefully, then in any way

mockingbird

08-08-2006, 13:03

I PRINTED MONEY AND I WAS GOING TO LEAVE FOR THE CORDON ...

08-08-2006, 13:19

next question will probably be about nitroglycerin

Wow, it's a good business to print money! 😉 take a share

mockingbird

08-08-2006, 13:49

are you going by ferry?

08-08-2006, 14:02

- Tell me, why do you have dollars more expensive than the exchange rate?
- Handmade. Yes, even at night.

1. Why did the adhesive tape not please?
2. Why didn’t the glue please?
3. And how do you need to glue it together? Two sheets to make one large one or glue it so that it is on both sides? =) If it's big, then the plotter is in your mouth and go ahead! If on both sides, then what for is it necessary? Is it really possible to counterfeit money? =) And what do you need to glue?

08-08-2006, 14:04

Understood! Either use a plotter, or do this:
Print the sheets so that there is nothing on the parts to be glued (yes, even with adhesive tape!) And connect them according to the type of wallpaper so that everything fits together.

I can draw a picture to make it easier to understand 🙂

Alternatively, take carbon paper and a pencil 🙂
You superimpose these two sheets on the A3 format and circle this matter through copying. And then with pencils - the corresponding parts are soft, hard and semi-hard along the ruler.

MFA does not accept glued =)
Yes, I decided a long time ago that it’s easier to fake a seal on the Ovirov profile than to try to glue the sheets on the Foreign Ministry 😀 😀 😀

Although the store shelves are littered with notebooks and notepads for any purpose, finding a truly unique thing is not easy. It is faster and more affordable to make a notebook with your own hands. It doesn't take long, and the result is a one-of-a-kind accessory for your recordings in the format you need. This article presents a step-by-step master class for making notebooks with tips and video tutorials.

DIY notebook making tools

To make a notebook or diary, first of all prepare paper for writing. Simple notebook sheets (in a cage, ruler) or landscape paper will do. To cut a large number of sheets evenly for a small notebook, use a clerical knife. You will need the following tools and supplies:

scissors;
ruler;
awl;
thick needle and strong threads;
stapler;
glue, double-sided thin tape or adhesive tape;
materials for the cover (base cardboard, colored cardboard, fabric);
decorations (sets for scrapbooking).

How to make a workbook with your own hands?

You can make a notebook with a small number of sheets (up to 10-12) in 2 ways:

Stapling.

Necessary number of sheets neatly fold in half.
Open the pages in the middle, staple along the fold line.

Usually 2 staples are enough, but if the page length exceeds half an A4 sheet, put staples at a distance of 5-10 cm between them. The thicker and thicker the paper, the larger the staples should be.

Stitching.

Carefully fold the sheets in half.
Mark with a pencil several pairs of future stitching holes (the distance between the punctures is 1-3 cm).
Pierce holes with an awl at the marked points (make sure that the hole does not exceed the diameter of the sewing needle - 1-2 mm).
For thin paper, prepare a needle with a single thread, for thick paper - with a double thread. There is no need to make a knot at the end of the thread.
Sew the pages through the holes made along the fold with a simple needle-forward stitch, starting the first stitch from the outside (leave the end of the thread hanging 5-10 cm).
The ends of the thread after stitching should be on the outside of the notebook.
After everything is sewn, pull both ends of the thread and tie with a strong knot.

If you need a thick notebook with a lot of pages, the usual binding technique will do, which is done in two ways:

Make blank books (each of 3-5 sheets folded in half; the thicker the paper, the fewer sheets).

All books are individually stitched with threads in the above way. The blanks are then sewn together or glued together.
The method of simultaneous stitching of blank books and fastening them together with one continuous thread:

Sew the first blank from the bottom up.
Without cutting the thread and without tying a knot, go to the second blank, only you will be sewing it from top to bottom, grabbing the outer stitches of the first booklet with a needle along the seam.
Having reached the bottom, proceed to the third blank, sewing it like the first (from the bottom up), while grabbing the stitches of the second booklet. When finished, move on to the next piece.
When sewing, pull the thread harder so that the pages do not hang out, and the books fit snugly together.
After sewing the last workpiece, fasten the ends of the thread together with a knot.

If you take not white sheets, but colored ones, you get an original notebook with multi-colored sections. You can also experiment with the texture and thickness of the paper. At the end of the work, check that the edges of the resulting book are even. It is most convenient to cut the curved edge with a clerical knife along the ruler.

How to make a cover for a notebook?

Stapled pages will look unfinished if not bound. For a thin notebook or ready-made paper block bound with a spiral, cut out two sheets of colored cardboard that fit. The cardboard is glued to the first and last pages of the book with glue or double-sided adhesive tape, then decorated.

For the cover of a thick notebook with a wide spine, you need:

Make 3 base blanks: the front and back of the cover (cut out of thick cardboard to fit the notebook), a cardboard piece for the spine of the appropriate size.
Glue all 3 blanks onto one large piece of colored cardboard (fabric or other material that will be the cover) with strong glue or double-sided tape. Bend the edges and corners of the cover material inward and glue it to the base cardboard.
Glue the first and last pages of the made notebook to the inside of the cover. As a result, the cardboard base must be completely hidden (from the outside - by the cover material, from the inside - by the outer pages of the notebook).
We put the finished notebook with the cover under the press for the night, then decorate. The design of the cover is only limited by your imagination. Use improvised materials: colored paper of different textures, lace, fabrics, threads, beads, rhinestones, etc.

Video tutorials on creating a notebook at home

After watching a selection of the presented videos, you will learn how to make any notebook with your own hands. Such an activity is not expensive in terms of money and is available even to children, because. does not require complicated steps. And the exclusive handmade cover will turn a purchased notebook into an original thing and will be a wonderful gift for any holiday.

A printed publication called a brochure is known to each of us. When a brochure is mentioned, the first thing that comes to mind is a small book that contains promotional or curriculum information. The description of the brochure found on the Internet also characterizes it as a printed, non-periodical book edition, derived from the French word brocher - to stitch.

The text content of the brochure has slightly departed from the original, today the material filling the brochure is for reference or advertising. The capacity of the brochure and the ability not only to tell about the product, but also to show it, thanks to colorful illustrations, made the brochure one of the most popular advertising media. A reputable company must have in its arsenal not only business cards, booklets, leaflets or catalogs, but also a brochure that can, at minimal cost, convey detailed information to a large number of potential customers. A brochure, unlike a booklet or leaflet, inspires confidence, it is pleasant to hold it in your hands and flip through the pages. A well-made design, well-chosen and thoughtful text, pleasant paper quality, bright illustrations are able to hold the reader's attention, but we should not forget about such an important factor on the way to perfection as the way our brochure is fastened. The thickness of the brochure depends on the number of pages, therefore, the binding must be carefully selected. The main task of the brochure, except of course the task of information, is not to end up in the waste paper basket, but to last as long as possible.

1 Among the many ways of fastening pages that are successful with customers, the stapling method can be called a staple. The method is reliable, time-tested, economical. The option of stapling with a paper clip is well known to us since childhood, thus, they sewed, and continue to fasten ordinary notebooks. The so-called “saddle” sewing option, when the ends of the staple or paper clip pierce the middle of the root fold in two or more places, and are fixed, tightly fastening the sheets of the product. Another option for stapling with a paper clip is called sewing in a wheelbarrow, here the staple pierces the fold of the spine from the front side, and the ends of the staples are clamped, not inside the brochure, but on its reverse side. Both staple binding options have their pros and cons. If the customer chooses the “push-in” fastening method, then the product fastened in this way will not open enough. Which of course will affect its overall appearance and the life of the brochure. But if the ordered brochure has a small number of sheets not exceeding 60 pages, then the staple binding method is better than any other. You can also sew a block of the product with the help of threads; this method of stitching is used if the product has a cover and contains a large number of sheets. The sheets are connected and stitched with a thread, and then with the help of hot glue, the cover is attached to the product.

2 A brochure that has a large number of pages, assuming a soft cover, can be bound using the CBS method, which means glueless binding. A brochure bound this way looks great. A small minus to such a fastening is the same impossibility to put the brochure open, and since the brochure contains illustrations in addition to text, difficulties cannot be avoided during full viewing. The service life of a brochure made with the help of KBS is several years, and all this time the pages of our brochure can be opened constantly without fear of causing any damage to its appearance. Despite the fact that with the help of KBS, the brochure has a rather solid appearance, it is also necessary to take into account the fact that not all materials are suitable for this method of binding. Some types of thick paper, such as coated paper, are difficult to glue together, in which case it is necessary to choose another, more suitable method.

3 Brochure binding with a spring is considered to be the most spectacular and elegant. The brochure on a spring disposes to itself, inspires confidence. As a rule, the spring that fastens the sheets of a brochure is metal or plastic. The cover of such a brochure can be either soft or hard, made using various design materials. The use of embossed cardstock makes it easy to make a brochure stand out from others. This spring-bound brochure has the fullest spread, requires page changes, and will last longer than most for your campaign. In addition, brochures on the spring are distinguished by the ability to have both a minimum number of pages and a maximum.

4 A close relative of spring binding brochures, this is a bolt/ring variant of brochure binding. The color scheme in case of choosing such a fastening is more extensive, and the fan fastening will give the brochure an original look.

In any case, which option of the binding method for a brochure you would not prefer, remember that the last of the printing manufacturing processes, of course, gives the finished look to the brochure, but first of all it serves for convenient and long-term use, while delighting customers with its appearance.

The help of MoscowBrand printing specialists in the development and production of brochures, detailed information, competent and comprehensive advice will help you with your choice, ensuring excellent quality and low cost.