How to fill up an old cellar. How to permanently get rid of dampness in the cellar and basement

When the long-awaited spring comes, many begin to have problems with flooding cellars and cellars. Such an unpleasant situation happens due to a rise in the level of groundwater. The earth becomes like a sponge that absorbs water and retains it. If the groundwater level rises above the foundation, then moisture seeps into the room through cracks.

The cause of basement flooding is the first aquifer. It is formed from nearby rivers, lakes, reservoirs. Also, the level of groundwater is affected by melted snow and precipitation in the form of rain. There are several ways to help deal with annual floods. By choosing one of them for yourself, you will be able to make the basement dry.

Creation of a drainage system

Drainage is a drainage system consisting of trenches, pipes and a well. With it, it is possible to prevent flooding of the basement, as well as drain land plot. The drainage system is made at the stage of basement construction. A properly installed system will help to forget about the water in the basement once and for all and protect the foundation from destruction.

How does it work drainage system
The basis of drainage is a pipe large diameter(not less than 100 mm). It has holes all over. Through them, groundwater seeps into the pipe and flows into the collector. In order for the system to work well, the following conditions must be created:

Dig a sloped trench around the basement below the floor. This will ensure efficient water collection and runoff.
Be sure to use filter materials (geotextile and crushed stone) that will protect the pipe from flooding.
Drainage to the central sewer, where a large amount of groundwater will accumulate.

What is necessary:

drainage pipe wrapped in geotextile;
fine, washed gravel;
geotextile fabric;
river sand.

Mounting

Make a trench below the floor level around the foundation and a deep well at a distance of 10-15 meters from the building. The trench should have a slope sufficient for water runoff.
Place a sheet of geotextile into the excavated trench. And then cover with crushed stone (layer thickness 10 cm). Thus, you will create a primary layer that filters groundwater.
At the next stage, lay the drainage pipe (preferably two-layer in geotextile) on a layer of rubble. Check that the slope is maintained throughout the trench. Using a tee, lay the outlet pipe to the well.
The laid pipe is completely covered with rubble. Leave 20 cm to the top of the trench. Fold the free edges of the geotextile over the crushed stone bedding. This will completely isolate the drainage from the ground. After that, fill the trench with sand.

As a result, you will get a reliable drainage system. Geotextiles and crushed stone act as a filter, preventing clogging of the perforated pipe. And the sand will ensure the transportation of moisture from the soil surface to the drainage channel.

Conclusion
Drainage channels installed around the basement will help eliminate main reason flooding - high level ground water. The result of the drainage will be a dry basement. Unfortunately, this system has its own significant drawback. It is customary (according to technology) to install drainage channels outside the premises, so not all basements can be equipped this way.

However, in exceptional cases, cellar owners can build drainage channels inside the premises. The installation process is almost the same, with the exception of some points that occur during the floor screed stage. After installation internal system drainage, the basement will lose 30 cm of height.

Creation of an automatic water pumping system

Not all basement owners have the opportunity to create a slope with a drainage system. Therefore, in such areas, a different method is used. To dry the room, install automatic system pumping out excess water.

What does that require:

Create a recess (pit) in the basement. Dig a hole measuring 50x50x50 cm. Then reinforce it with concrete or brickwork - this must be done to prevent the walls from collapsing. Pour 10 cm thick gravel into the hole.
Purchase a special pump that automatically turns on when a certain level of water accumulates.

Mounting
In the excavated pit, place the pump, connect the hoses to it and take them away from the room. When the volume of groundwater increases, it will first accumulate in the pit. The pump will start, reacting to the rising level, and pump out excess moisture. This will continue until ground water will not fall completely.

Conclusion
A fairly simple system that is inexpensive. Quick to install and easy to set up. But this system has two significant drawbacks. First, the pump works properly until it exhausts its resource, and then it will have to be replaced. Second, the pumping system will not eliminate the cause of flooding, but only temporarily relieve the consequences.

Basement waterproofing

Wall and floor waterproofing helps provide a quality waterproof barrier. It consists of three layers: penetrating waterproofing, bituminous mastic and plasters. Apply coats above flood level with some headroom in case groundwater rises.

What does that require:

Buy materials: hydrotex or penetron, bituminous mastic, sand, waterproof cement, metal mesh for plaster are used as penetrating waterproofing.
Collect necessary tools: hard brush and spatula for applying compounds, iron brush for grouting brick joints or cracks, a mixer and a container for mixing the solution.
Prepare the basement: pump out the water - for this it is convenient to use the "Kid" pump with a lower suction. After drying, clean the surface of the floor and walls from dirt. Rub the seams, corners, cracks with a brush.

Mounting

Treat the concrete floor and walls with penetrating waterproofing. This composition is deeply absorbed and clogs macrocracks through which water penetrates into the basement.
Then coat the corners, seams, cracks with bituminous mastic. Then, in the same way, apply mastic to the remaining surface of the walls and floor. The layer thickness must be at least 2 cm.
Attach the metal grill to the wall. It is necessary to ensure the rigidity of the plaster layer. Prepare a cement mortar, medium viscosity. Using a spatula, apply a layer of plaster 3 cm thick.
Lay on the floor metal mesh and fill with liquid cement mortar and let it dry. At this point, the process of creating basement waterproofing can be considered complete.

Conclusion
The waterproofing layer prevents groundwater seepage through cracks. It also makes concrete stronger, extending the life of walls and floors. The waterproofing method is an excellent alternative to a drainage system, which is not possible in all basements.

So, the above methods of dealing with basement flooding will help get rid of excess water. Each has its own installation features, advantages and disadvantages. You need to choose a method based on specific goals and financial capabilities.

Video: how to make drainage in the basement with your own hands

For many car owners, an underground room is an indispensable part of the garage. It greatly enhances the functionality of the garage. The inspection pit allows you to perform complex repairs, and the basement to store the necessary things.

But underground rooms need in special protection, since moisture can harm your car, cause corrosion. Therefore, to the question waterproofing the basement of the garage from the inside from groundwater should be approached with great care.

While creating waterproofing many materials are used. Waterproofing materials differ in price, service life and other characteristics. Popular building materials are penetrating waterproofing, bitumen and roll materials, polymer membranes.

This is what it looks like schematically garage basement waterproofing:

Consider two main cases − creating waterproofing in the construction of a garage and refurbishment of existing building.

During construction

The most important parts of the basement to work on are the inside and outside of the walls, the floor, and the closing lid. Best to plan garage basement waterproofing at the very beginning of construction. This will make your work much easier.

First of all, you need to find out ground water level. If the environment is not too aggressive, and you can build a garage with an underground room on the site, then you should start building drainage system. In the simplest case, you can do without laying pipes. The mixture is poured along the perimeter of the future building. The mixture consists of soil, sand and stones.

A more complex drainage system is being built with pipes. First, you will need to dig a trench around the perimeter of the building. The depth of the trench is equal to the depth of the basement + 40 centimeters. Buried vertically in a trench plastic pipes. They will let excess water through.

To prevent clogging, the pipes are covered lattice. Then the trench is covered with geotextile and a layer of rubble. But even with a drainage system, protection must be reinforced with waterproofing in the basement itself.

For inner surface walls is a great solution penetrating waterproofing.

Penetrating waterproofing- ready-made composition of special cement, sand and chemicals.

Composition in the literal sense "penetrates" inside the walls and provides protection against moisture. The substance is suitable for capillary-porous structures. These include walls on a concrete and cement basis, brick. Penetrating waterproofing gets inside the micro-voids and crystallizes there.

crystals do not let moisture through, protect your cellar from harmful effects. Penetrating waterproofing can only deteriorate due to the destruction of the walls themselves. In other words, she will serve a very long time. The substance must be applied to a slightly damp surface, so it will be better absorbed.

penetrating waterproofing mixed with water and applied to the surface with a brush. The layer thickness is about two millimeters. Manufacturers claim that the substance penetrates almost a centimeter deep. The application process is simple and does not require special skills.

Instead of penetrating waterproofing, other methods can be used, for example, liquid rubber. The substance is laid on any surface - dry, damp or simply wet. For brick, plaster with increased protection against moisture is well suited.

The process can be mastered by any car owner, the involvement of hired specialists is not required. To start applying plaster, you must first clean the wall and apply a primer. Next, the plaster is applied in three layers. The first is a primer, the second will be the main one, and the third is applied to level the surface.

One of the most common solutions for the outer surface of basement walls is the use of bituminous mastic and roofing material - homemade multi-layer coating. Building materials are of low price and good performance. Instead of roofing material, slate can be used, it is similarly “reinforced” bituminous mixture.

Next step - floor protection. Ideal for underground floors reinforced concrete. Typically, car owners use roll and sheet materials. The method is simple and effective. The first step is to apply a primer. A protective material is placed on it. More complex and expensive options are cast, impregnating gluing waterproofing.

The last step in creating moisture protection is cover installation. It prevents the penetration of moisture into the above-ground part of the garage. Even if the basement is flooded, the cover will provide temporary protection against corrosion. The lid can be made of wood, the thickness should be at least 10-15 centimeters.

How to waterproof a cellar in a garage, see below:

Repair

Unfortunately, the basement flood. Then the question arises - how to get rid of water and make the cellar in the garage dry? Effective way is setting internal drainage. If there are floors in the garage, they will have to be opened. A trench is being dug along the perimeter of the basement, with a depth of 30-50 centimeters. The bottom should be tamped and a layer of rubble (15-20 centimeters) should be poured on it.

Plastic pipes called drains are laid in the trench. You need to put them downhill to make it easier for water to get in. Then the drainage pipes are covered with geotextile and rubble, sand is poured on top.

Drainage helps drain water in the garage in the basement, but it still needs to be drain. The first phase is natural drainage. First, you should clean the cellar of all things, as well as remove the shelves, garbage, racks. After cleaning the garage leave for two or three days. Then you can speed up the process.

For this purpose use brazier. It can be made with your own hands - the basis will be a metal bucket. Please note that the bucket must be not painted.

Firewood is placed in a homemade brazier and set on fire. Heat accelerates air circulation in the basement, the walls dry quickly and warm up.

When the cellar in the garage became dry, you should do repair damage to waterproofing to prevent re-flooding.

If all else fails, there is only one thing left - fall asleep. How to fill a cellar in a garage? Well suited for this task are gravel, clay, fine-grained sand, construction garbage. Need to fill up the basement in layers. The first layer is clay, and the second is sand. These materials are cheap and readily available.

Conclusion

Present on the market today wide selection waterproofing materials . One of the most convenient and popular solutions is penetrating waterproofing. The substance is applied to the surface of the walls, it penetrates into the voids and crystallizes. crystals do not miss moisture and provide long lasting protection. Life time protective coating limited by the life of the walls themselves.

In addition to walls, waterproofing needs cellar floor. The range is also very large. The cheapest options are roll and sheet building materials. First, a primer is applied to the floor surface, then laid protective layer. A worthy replacement is cast or impregnating waterproofing, it is made on the basis of other substances. The last step is to install the closing cover.

In the old country house there is a basement. It is a box 2 * 2 * 2 meters welded from iron, below ground level. And groundwater in this place starts already at 90cm. In short, the iron basement has long since rusted at the bottom, and there is more than a meter of water there (after pumping out from the bottom, fountains spout and a meter of water again a day later). The basement is not needed, it is necessary to get rid of it in the simplest and cheapest way, but so that it does not give any other problems in the future.

I searched in search engines about backfilling - and did not find a specific solution: a lot of conflicting ideas, and mainly aimed at saving the basement.

Some advise to fill in layers - expanded clay to the bottom, then sand, then earth, then crushed stone ... Others advise to fill everything with sand ... Thirds advise to fill everything with clay ... Fourths advise to pour crushed stone with sand ... Fifths advise to fill in construction debris and then concrete from above ...

So what's the best way to fill a basement? For example, if you don’t bother with all these layers, pump out the water (although it won’t work completely dry - 15 centimeters remain), and just pour 8 cubic meters of ordinary earth there?
I don’t understand what is the fundamental difference if you fill in sand or clay? I need some kind of logical justification for this or that material, why it should be used. And why no one advises pouring ordinary earth?

If, during the construction of the garage, such nuances as the features of the relief were not taken into account (for example, if the garage is in a lowland or on a slope) and the level of groundwater, the waterproofing was not carried out qualitatively and the drainage system was installed, then, most likely, repairs will be required over time cellar in the garage. Read.

Repair

If it was decided to fill up the cellar in the garage, which is regularly flooded, then it is necessary to responsibly approach the choice of soil composition so that subsequently the soil does not subside and water is not pushed to the surface. Read the instructions on how to make a cellar in the garage.

For backfilling the cellar, you can use the following materials:

fine river sand (used in the annual flooding of the basement in spring period by 20 - 30 cm);
clay;
expanded clay;
crushed stone;
construction scrap.

If the cellar is flooded under the very shelves, then it is better to fill it up in layers: construction debris, broken brick, gravel and sand.

If groundwater is constantly standing in the cellar, then the best option will fall asleep in layers of clay and sand.

The universal filling material will be river sand in combination with expanded clay.

Water in the cellar - what to do?

The constant dampness of the walls in the basement, the main sign of poor quality waterproofing, and, accordingly, a signal for action, that is, the urgent repair and restoration of the garage.

Before proceeding with repair work, first of all, they dry the cellar and, accordingly, the basement of the garage.

There are two main, tested over the years, ways to dry the cellar:

The use of a roaster. This method consists in equipping a home-made brazier from an old metal bucket in which a fire is made (the bucket is installed in the center of the room). This method is very simple, the only caveat is that you need to keep the fire going. long time. This method is very effective, since the smoke generated during the combustion of fuel destroys additionally all the mold and fungus present in the basement.
The use of candles and pipes. This method consists in installing the pipe in such a way that one end of it is located in close proximity to the floor, and the other end of the pipe goes outside. A container with a candle is installed under the pipe, which is necessary to create forced ventilation. The structure can be removed only when the humidity drops to an acceptable level.

To arrange external drainage, it is necessary to dig a trench around the perimeter of the garage, forty centimeters deeper than the level of the basement floor, it is recommended to make a trench with a width of forty centimeters. With a step of two meters, wells are made in the trench, into which perforated pipes wrapped with geotextiles are installed. The prepared drainage system is backfilled with soil.

Internal drainage is a network of perforated pipes mounted along the inner contour of the garage at a certain depth.

One of the options for waterproofing the cellar (basement) is the injection method. The essence of this method is to saturate the soil with special polymer resins and acrylate gels using expandable packers. But this method is quite expensive, moreover, it requires the involvement of specialists and equipment.

Waterproofing can also be done by spraying liquid rubber, instantly setting and forming a polymer membrane. This method, in combination with ventilation and insulation, will permanently save the cellar from condensation and humidity. Read the guide on how to choose a garage roof.

As a result of violation natural ventilation in the cellar, as well as in the presence of temperature differences on the walls and ceiling of the cellar, condensation forms. Accordingly, in order to prevent condensation from forming, it is necessary to equip natural or forced ventilation, as well as insulate the cellar ceiling.

Accordingly, a set of measures taken to equip the hood in the cellar will have a beneficial effect on the microclimate of the cellar and significantly reduce the level of humidity.

High humidity in basement garage provides ideal conditions for the formation and reproduction of mold and fungus.

Mold can live on any surface of a completely different material, be it concrete, wood, stone or paint, and accordingly have a destructive effect on the finish, as well as the structural elements of the garage (for example, rotted floor beams can lead to the collapse of the garage floor).

One of the popular ways to combat the fungus is to treat infected surfaces with a 40% formalin solution.

To combat mold in the cellar of the garage, you can use by special means, which have antiseptic properties, improve ventilation, as well as update the waterproofing of the cellar.

Hood

One of the main conditions for creating an optimal microclimate in the cellar is the arrangement of a supply and exhaust ventilation system, which can be either natural or forced. The ventilation system can be equipped either with two pipes (exhaust and supply), which are installed in two opposite corners cellars. This system is ideal for small cellars. The exhaust pipe is installed at a height of 18 mm from the floor, the other end of the pipe must protrude approximately 400 mm outside. The supply pipe is located at a distance of 300 mm from the floor, and the other end of the pipe is approximately 300 mm outward. Pipes can be made of asbestos concrete or PVC. Forced ventilation is carried out due to the equipment of an electric fan, other differences from natural ventilation forced ventilation does not have.

How to insulate?

Properly selected thermal insulation material and well-conducted insulation of the garage floor with a cellar should prevent condensation in that very cellar. The best option, the most suitable for warming according to their technical specifications, will be extruded polystyrene foam. Expanded polystyrene sheets are placed in the space between the slats, pre-mounted crates. Plywood sheets can be fixed on top of the insulation.

Video

The appearance of mold or condensation on the walls and ceiling of the cellar is the first sign high humidity. This means that the sooner measures are taken to identify the cause of dampness in the cellar and measures to eliminate it, the more financial resources will be saved that may be needed, if no measures are taken, to restore the garage foundation and cellar.

WP_Query Object ( => Array ( => 1 => rand) => Array ( => 1 => rand => [m] => [p] => 0 => => => => => 0 => => => => 0 => => => => 0 => 0 => 0 [w] => 0 => => => => => => => => => 0 => = > => [s] => => => => => => => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => => => 1 => 1 => 1 => 1 => => => 50 => =>) => WP_Tax_Query Object ( => Array () => AND => Array () => Array () => wp_posts => ID ) => WP_Meta_Query Object ( => Array () => => => => => => Array () => Array () =>) => => SELECT SQL_CALC_FOUND_ROWS wp_posts.ID FROM wp_posts WHERE 1=1 AND wp_posts.post_type = "post" AND (wp_posts.post_status = "publish") ORDER BY RAND() LIMIT 0, 1 => Array ( => WP_Post Object ( => 6607 => 2 => 2017-10-25 21:19:10 => 2017-10-25 17:19:10 =>

Can you see everyone

open circuit

So, divorced in the basement:

Cold water supply;
Hot water supply;
Heating;
Sewerage.

cold water

Image	Description

Cold water bottling

Stop water meter

Solutions:

Welding or replacement of the wedge;
Grinding cheeks and mirrors;

Leaks in the water meter

Causes:

Solutions:

Cold water bottling leak

Blockage or overgrowth of the riser

Solutions:

Booster pump leak

DHW

Low water temperature

High water temperature

Support washers Solutions:

Heating

Causes:

Clogged elevator nozzle;

Solutions:

Repair stop valves;

Reasons: Solutions:

Solutions:

Sewerage

Clogged riser

Blockage of the bed

Outlet blockage on the well

Leaks

Causes:

Destruction of the bell;

Solutions:

Conclusion

We hope that our material will help the reader to successfully solve most of the typical problems associated with the operation of engineering networks in the basement of a residential building. As always, Additional information can be found in the video attached to the article. Good luck! => Network engineering in the basement: device and typical malfunctions => => publish => open => closed => => inzhenernye-seti-v-podvale-450 => => => 2017-10-25 21:19:10 => 2017 -10-25 17:19:10 => => 0 =>?p=6607 => 0 => post => => 0 => raw =>)) => 1 => -1 => => WP_Post Object ( => 6607 => 2 => 2017-10-25 21:19:10 => 2017-10-25 17:19:10 => Technical basement in an apartment building typical apartment building and find out how they work. And also consider what problems they can create for residents, and how to solve these same problems. The article is focused primarily on novice plumbers: most of the problems described should be solved not by the residents of the house, but by representatives of organizations serving it. So, let's go.

Can you see everyone

Let's start with a list of networks located in the basement and related equipment. But first, a small lyrical digression. For apartment buildings Soviet-built typically centralized supply of heat and hot water. It can be implemented in two fundamentally different ways:

Closed heat supply scheme does not provide for the selection of water from the heating circuit. Water for DHW needs is heated in heat exchangers, where it is supplied with energy by the heat carrier of the heating system;

Heating substation with hot water heat exchangers

open circuit means that hot water is taken directly from the heating network through the DHW tie-ins in the elevator units.

Elevator node. Black pipes - hot water tie-ins The vast majority of Soviet-built buildings (and, accordingly, at least 80% of the currently operating housing stock) use open circuit heat supply. That is what the author of the article is going to describe. So, divorced in the basement:

Cold water supply;
Hot water supply;
Heating;
Sewerage.

In addition, in the basement there are two nodes that provide the house cold water(water meter) and thermal energy (elevator). Now let's move on to the device and network problems.