Drainage systems: device, principles of operation, laying. How the drainage system works and its types What kind of geotextile is needed for the drainage system

Experienced builders and suburban residents are well aware that "extra" water on the site is bad. Excess water leads to flooding of the foundation and basement floor, washing out of the base, flooding of beds, waterlogging of the territory, etc. As a result, in spring, autumn and even summer, it is impossible to walk through the summer cottage without rubber boots.

In this article, we'll look at:

• How to arrange water drainage on the site.
• How to make a budget storm sewer with your own hands.
• Drainage device. How to make inexpensive drainage and drain a wetland.

What kind of water interferes with the life of the developer and the suburban homeowner

About the types of surface and ground water, as well as drainage and storm sewer systems, you can write a separate book. Therefore, we will leave a detailed enumeration of the types and causes of groundwater occurrence outside the scope of this article, and concentrate on practice. But without the minimum theoretical knowledge, to take up the independent arrangement of drainage and storm sewers is to throw money away.

The point is that even improperly made drainage system functions for the first few years. Then, due to clogging (silting) of a pipe wrapped with geotextile, which was placed in clay, loamy, etc. soil, drainage stops working. And the money for the arrangement of drainage has already been spent and, most importantly, the construction of the drainage is associated with a large amount of excavation work with the involvement of equipment.

Therefore, simply digging and shifting a drainage pipe 3-5 years after its laying is difficult and expensive. The site has already been inhabited, landscape design has been made, a blind area has been equipped, a gazebo, a bathhouse, etc. have been installed.

We'll have to puzzle over how to redo the drainage so as not to turn the entire site around.

From here - drainage construction should always be based on geological survey data(which will help to find a water-resistant layer in the form of clay at a depth of 1.5-2 m), hydrogeological surveys and clear knowledge of what kind of water leads to flooding of the house or swamping of the site.

Surface waters are seasonal in nature, associated with a period of snowmelt and an abundance of rain. Groundwater is divided into three main groups:

• capillary water.
• Ground water.
• Verkhovodka.

Moreover, surface water, if it is not diverted in time, when infiltrated (absorbed) into the ground, turns into underground water.

The volume of surface water usually exceeds the volume of groundwater.

Conclusion: surface runoff must be diverted by storm (rain) sewage, rather than trying to do surface drainage!

Storm sewage is a system consisting of trays, pipes or ditches dug in the ground, leading water from drains outside the site + competent organization of the relief in the backyard. This will avoid stagnant zones on the site (lenses, pools), where water will accumulate, which simply has nowhere to go, and further waterlogging.

The main mistakes that are made with an independent drainage device:

• Non-observance of the correct slope of the laid drainage pipes. If we take the average, then the slope is maintained in the range from 0.005 to 0.007, i.e. 5-7 mm per 1 running meter of drainage pipe.

• Using a drainage pipe in a geotextile wrap on the "wrong" ground. To avoid siltation, a pipe in geotextile is used on soils consisting of clean medium- and coarse-grained sands.

• The use of cheaper limestone rubble instead of granite, which is washed away with water over time.
• Savings on high-quality geotextiles, which must have certain hydraulic properties that affect the quality of drainage. This is an effective pore size of 175 microns, i.e. 0.175 mm, as well as the transverse Kf, which should be at least 300 m / day (with a single pressure gradient).

Inexpensive do-it-yourself storm sewer

The first thing that comes to mind in order to equip a budget option for storm sewers on the site is to lay special trays.

Trays can be made of concrete or plastic, but the price of them "bites". This forces users of our portal to look for cheaper options for arranging storm sewers and drainage systems from the site.

Denis1235 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I need to make an inexpensive storm drain, about 48 m long, along the edge of the fence, to drain meltwater that comes from a neighbor. Water must be diverted to a ditch. I thought about how to make a water outlet. At first it occurred to me to buy and install special trays, but then they will leave “extra” gratings, and I don’t need special aesthetics for storm water. I decided to buy asbestos-cement pipes and cut them along with a grinder, thereby getting a homemade tray.

Despite the budgetary nature of this idea, the user was not attracted by the need to saw asbestos-cement pipes on their own. The second option is the opportunity to buy gutters (plastic or metal) and lay them on a prepared base in a concrete layer of about 100 mm.

Portal users responded Denis1235 from this idea in favor of the first option, which is more durable.

Hooked on the idea of ​​​​an inexpensive storm drain, but not wanting to get involved with cutting pipes on their own, Denis1235 I found a plant that produces asbestos-cement pipes, where they will immediately be sawn into pieces 2 m long (so that a 4-meter one does not crack during transportation) and ready-made trays will be brought to the site. It remains only to develop a scheme for laying trays.

The result is the following pie:

• Soil base in the form of a bed.
• A layer of sand or ASG about 5 cm thick.
• Concrete about 7 cm.
• Tray from asbestos-cement pipe.

When installing such a storm drain, do not forget to lay a metal mesh (for reinforcement) at the joints and leave a deformation gap (3-5 mm) between the trays.

Denis1235

As a result, I made a budget shower at the dacha. It took: 2 days to dig a trench, two more days to concrete and install the track. I spent 10 thousand rubles on trays.

Practice has shown that the track "overwintered" perfectly, did not crack and intercepts water from a neighbor, leaving the site dry. Also of interest is the option of rain (storm) sewage of the portal user with the nickname yuri_by.

yury_by Member of FORUMHOUSE

Because the crisis does not think to end, then I thought about how to arrange a storm sewer to remove rainwater from the house. I want to solve the problem, and save money, and do everything efficiently.

After thinking, the user decided to make a storm drain for water drainage based on flexible double-walled corrugated pipes (they cost 2 times cheaper than "red" sewer pipes), which are used for laying power cables underground. But, because the depth of the drainage route is planned to be only 200-300 mm with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, yuri_by I was afraid that the corrugated pipe could break in winter if water gets between the two layers.

Eventually yuri_by I decided to take a budget "gray" pipe, which is used in the arrangement of internal sewage. Although he had fears that the pipes, which do not have such rigidity as the "red ones", will break in the ground, practice has shown that nothing happened to them.

yuri_by

If you step on the "gray" pipe, it turns into an oval, but there are no significant loads in the place where I buried it. Only the lawn is laid and there are pedestrian loads. Having laid the pipe in a trench and sprinkled it with soil, I made sure that they keep their shape, and the storm drain works.

The user liked the option of installing an inexpensive storm drain based on “gray” sewer pipes so much that he decided to repeat it. All the nuances of the process are clearly demonstrated by the following photos.

Digging a hole to collect water.

Level the base.

We install a concrete ring.

The next stage is to fill the bottom of the well with gravel of fraction 5-20.

We cast a homemade well cover from concrete.

Paint the manhole cover.

We make a tie-in into the well of a drainage plastic "gray" sewer pipe, maintaining a slope of the route of 1 cm per 1 running meter.

We spill the pipe with a mixture of sand and water so that there are no voids between the walls of the trench and the pipe.

To prevent the pipe from floating up, it can be pressed with a brick or board.

We put the cover, mount the hatch and fill everything with soil.

This completes the production of the budget shower.

Construction of inexpensive drainage and drainage of the wetland

Not everyone gets the “right” sites. In SNT or in new cuts, the land can be very swampy, or the developer has a peat bog. To build a normal house for permanent residence on such land, and not an easy summer cottage, is both difficult and expensive. There are two ways out of this situation - to sell / exchange the site or to drain and bring the site in order.

In order not to engage in various costly alterations in the future, users of our portal offer budget options for drainage and drainage of the territory based on car tires. This option allows you to save the family budget.

Yuri Podymakhin FORUMHOUSE Member

Peat soil is characterized by a high level of groundwater. In my area, the water is almost flush with the surface, and after the rain does not go into the ground. To divert the top water, it must be thrown out of the site. I did not spend money on buying special pipes for drainage, but made drainage from car tires.

The system is mounted as follows - a ditch is dug, tires are laid in it, tires are covered with polyethylene on top so that the earth does not fall inside from above. Polyethylene can also be additionally pressed with "unnecessary" pieces of slate in the household. This will increase the overall rigidity of the structure. Water enters the "cover" pipeline and is then discharged outside the site.

But there are also more “heavy” places where much more needs to be done.

Seryoga567 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I have a plot in SNT, with a total area of ​​8 acres. There is a building on the site that I plan to complete and expand. The place is very low. Because drainage grooves for drainage in SNT are in a deplorable state, where they are buried, littered or clogged, then the water does not go anywhere. The GWL is so high that you can draw water from the well with a bucket, holding it by the handle. In the spring, the water in the country house stands for a long time, the site actually turns into a swamp and, if it dries out, it is only in the very heat in summer. No one wants to put the drainage ditches in order, so everyone swims. Therefore, I decided that it was useless to fight with the neighbors. It is necessary to raise your site and find a way to put all the "unnecessary" water from the site.

The removal of ground and storm water from the foundation will significantly increase the service life of both the capital building and the summer cottage. A drainage system that is simple in design will protect underground concrete structures from gradual erosion, and basements from flooding. But it is extremely important to prevent the destruction of the very foundation of the structure, right?

A well-designed drainage scheme around the house will help to build an efficient system for collecting and discharging natural water. We invite you to familiarize yourself with carefully selected and verified information based on regulatory documents and the real experience of builders of low-rise buildings.

We will talk in detail about the types of drainage systems, the features of their device, the specifics of operation. We will give arguments in favor of choosing a particular type of drainage. The useful information offered to your attention is supplemented with photos, diagrams and video instructions.

When designing a drainage system, first of all, determine the goals that are planned to be achieved. They may consist in draining the entire site, in protecting the foundation and basement of the house from excess moisture.

Of the existing drainage systems, two main types can be distinguished - open and deep (closed). The first can be used for the needs of agriculture, for water disposal from cultivated areas. Closed drainage is used to drain water in summer cottages and cottage areas, to protect buildings from the negative effects of high groundwater levels.

The organization of the drainage system is necessary with a high groundwater table, which is especially evident during the flood period. Drainage to protect the concrete foundation from the aggression of underground water and reduce the hydraulic load

Combined drainage systems are also used. They are often supplemented with storm sewer branches designed for the disposal of atmospheric water. Provided that they are properly designed, they can significantly save on the construction of each system separately.

Image Gallery

The first and main sign, according to which the owners of the site need to arrange drainage, is the stagnation of water during the snowmelt period. This means that the soils underlying the soil have a low filtration capacity, i.e. do not pass water well or do not pass it at all

Drainage is necessary in areas with pronounced signs of soil erosion: cracks that appear during the dry period. This is a manifestation of soil erosion by groundwater, which ultimately leads to destruction.

Collection and drainage of water is required if, during the period of snowmelt and heavy rainfall, groundwater rises to the level of laying communications

Drainage systems are built in areas with a characteristic slope. But in this case, they are needed for a balanced distribution of water and keeping it on elevated sites.

Flooding of the site during the snowmelt period

Erosion and erosion of the soil under the foundation

Water at the level of laying communications

Country plot with slope

#1: Open Drainage Device

Open drainage is the simplest and most economical way to drain water, which can be used under the following conditions:

• the underlying soil layer is clayey, poorly permeable to water, which is why the fertile layer, located 20–30 cm from the surface of the earth, is waterlogged;
• the site is located in a lowland, into which rainwater naturally flows during a period of heavy rainfall;
• there is no natural slope in the relief of the site, which ensures the movement of excess water towards the street.

Open drainage is arranged in areas with a high GWL, the mark of which is most often due to the location of the land allotment in a lowland or the clay composition of soils that do not pass or very weakly pass water into the underlying layers.

A drainage system designed to drain excess groundwater works great in tandem with a storm drain, the work of which is to collect and remove precipitation (+)

Planning a drainage scheme is best done at the design stage of a house. This will allow you to tie the work and place the storm water inlet under the gutters to the blind area.

Open drainage is considered the simplest and does not require a diagram. It is a trench 0.5 m wide and 0.6-0.7 m deep. The sides of the trench are at an angle of 30 °. They encircle the territory along the perimeter and direct wastewater into a ditch or pit, into a storm sewer.

Areas with a slope towards the street are easier to drain. For this, a gutter ditch is dug in front of the house, across the slope, which will retain water from the garden. Then they dig a ditch, it will direct the runoff towards the street, into a ditch.

If the site has a slope in the opposite direction from the road, then a transverse gutter is dug in front of the fence facade and another longitudinal one is made to the end of the site.

The disadvantage of such drainage is its low aesthetics and the need for regular cleaning of the gutters from silt and dirt, which periodically accumulates in them. This type of drainage is not recommended to be arranged under the road surface, as it leads to subsidence of the soil and deformation of the canvas.

The length of the lines for water flow, the number of wells and sand collectors depends on the area of ​​​​the site, its topography, and the intensity of precipitation in a particular area.

Drainage ditches can be strengthened from erosion with the help of reinforced concrete slabs, stone paving, turf with crushed bottom

If the site is considered to be more or less even, and its level of waterlogging is not too high, then the simplest drainage system can be dispensed with.

Along the foundation of the fence, at the lowest point of the site, they dig a ditch with a width of 0.5 m, a length of 2-3 m and a depth of 1 m. Such a drainage system, although it will protect against a high groundwater level, and perfectly cope with precipitation.

To prevent the edges of the ditch from collapsing, it is filled with rubble, broken glass and bricks. Having filled it, they dig the next one, it is also filled and compacted tightly. Excavated soil is used for filling low-lying places in the territory

Over time, this simple drainage system may become inoperable due to gradual siltation. To prevent this from happening, it can be protected with a geotextile. It is laid on the ground, after backfilling the ditch, the drainage layer is overlapped with it. From above, to hide the ditch, it is sprinkled with a layer of fertile soil.

#2: Building an Efficient Stormwater Drain

Storm sewerage is necessary for the accumulation and removal from the site of water that falls in the form of precipitation. It is equipped with point and linear catchment devices.

Image Gallery

Storm sewer systems are arranged to collect atmospheric water and prevent it from penetrating into the soil, and then into the underlying soil.

According to the type of water intake devices, storm sewer systems are divided into point and linear. The first are built in areas with organized drainage, the second - with unorganized

Linear water intakes have a much larger collection area than point ones. They are installed next to houses with unorganized drainage and on sites paved with a waterproof coating.

In linear stormwater, water is both collected and transported through a network of channels closed with a metal or plastic grate. In point systems, water is drained through a system of pipes laid in the ground.

Storm sewer with a point water inlet

Spot drainage channels

Water receivers of a linear variety

The structure of trays with gratings

The first type of water collectors is installed under the risers of an organized drainage system. The second type of water collectors is located under the slopes of roofs with unorganized drainage.

Water entering the sump moves through an open or closed pipeline. It is diverted either to a common well-water collector, or to a collector well, from which it moves to a centralized sewer network or gutter.

The storm water inlet is a container for collecting water, equipped with outlets for connecting pipes of a linear drainage system. Devices are made of durable plastic or cast iron (+)

The elements of the storm system with point water collectors are also drains, drains, dampers. Some manufacturers provide for the possibility of connecting storm water inlets with roof drains, as well as with underground drainage systems.

In addition, ready-made production models provide for the presence of sand traps and waste bins, which simplify the maintenance of the system.

A device with a decorative grille installed should be located 3-5 mm lower than the level of the track, the ground

This is a system of gutters made of plastic or concrete, which are installed on the site in those places where the accumulation of water is most likely, but highly undesirable.

For a drainage well, choose the most distant place from the house, well, cellar. If there is a natural or artificial reservoir nearby, then water can be drained into it

When designing with linear water intakes, the first thing they plan is the placement of a catchment or collector well. Next, determine the location of the rotary and revision wells. Their arrangement will depend on the placement of storm water inlets and closed sewer branches.

To prevent water from the street from entering the yard, gutters are installed along the gate line leading to the yard, garage doors, and also in the gate area. When choosing system elements to be installed on the roadway, the future load on them is taken into account.

To prevent moisture from getting inside the building, the slope of the coating in the garage is done towards the water intake grate. So water, when washing the car or thawing snow on the vehicle, will drain into the gutter.

Drainage trays must be installed on the porch, around the pool. They are also installed along the blind area, garden paths, laid out from the facing material of the sites.

To give the storm drain a neat look, special trays made of polymer concrete and plastic are used, which are closed with metal or plastic gratings. At the entrance to the house use a special pallet for cleaning shoes.

The grate for the gutter installed near the pool is chosen plastic, white, in order to avoid burns on a hot summer day.

With intensive use, drainage trays are mounted on a concrete base. The higher the load class on the roadway, the greater the thickness of the concrete base should be (+)

Gutters and water intake points are connected to a drainage tank. At the junction of gutters and pipes, inspection wells are provided. They are designed to facilitate access to the system and clean it from possible clogging.

Revision wells are made mainly of plastic. In order to obtain the required depth, their design provides for the possibility of building with the help of special extension elements.

Placement, slope and length of storm sewer pipes - all these characteristics are very individual and depend on many conditions on the site

A wide range of system elements allows the most rational design, which will be optimal from a technical and financial point of view.

The main elements of linear drainage are gutters made of concrete, polymer concrete, plastic, point receivers, sand traps, grids (+)

#3: Building Indoor Drainage Options

Underground, closed drainage is used if the device of an open system takes up too much space on the land plot or it absolutely does not fit into the landscape picture of the territory. The conditions for its installation of a closed drainage system are similar to the prerequisites for organizing a network of open drainage ditches and ditches.

Closed drainage schemes are used to protect the foundation, basements from groundwater and increase their service life. By analogy with open ones, they are used to drain a suburban area from excess groundwater.

It is mandatory to organize underground drainage on the site if:

• it is located in a lowland, in a swampy area;
• there is a natural reservoir near the buildings;

Underground drainage can be divided into two types:

• wall drainage;
• trench (formation) drainage.

Both types of underground drainage are carried out at the stage of building construction. If it was decided to start the problem of drainage after the construction of the house, then a trench ring system is used. There are also limitations for the use of trench drainage. It can be used if the house does not have a basement.

The fact is that, after, backfilling the pit with sand or soil creates a looser environment between the bedrock and the foundation. As a result, perched water penetrates into this environment, and then even the presence of a clay castle does not protect the building from moisture.

Therefore, if the house has a basement, for effective drainage, it is best to do wall drainage. It is used for draining groundwater directly from the foundation of the building, to protect basements, cellars, basements from flooding.

You can not plant trees and shrubs near the drain. The distance to the planted tree can be at least two meters and to the bush at least one meter.

Wall-mounted limits the rise in water level, preventing it from rising above the line of drainage pipes - drains. It is believed that a drainage pipe 1 m long is capable of draining an area of ​​​​about 10-20 m 2.

When arranging wall drainage, the pipe is laid along the perimeter of the building. The depth of the laying of drains cannot be lower than the base of the foundation slab or the base of the foundation. If the foundation is very deep, then it is allowed to lay the pipe slightly above its base (+)

The distance from the drainage pipe to the foundation depends on the location. They are laid in each corner (or through one corner) of the building, as well as in places of turns and pipe connections.

Revision wells are also located in places with a large difference in the level of the site and with a large length of pipes - the distance between the wells should be no more than 40 meters.

In the revision well, the pipe cannot be solid, it breaks. This is done so that if the pipeline is clogged, it remains possible to flush it using a high-pressure hose.

The whole system closes on the last well. It should be located in the lowest place. Further, the water flows into a conventional sewer or open reservoir. If it is not possible to divert water from the house by gravity, then pumping equipment is installed and it is pumped out forcibly.

To ensure gravity drainage of water, the pipes are laid to the side to the collection manifold. The slope should be two centimeters per meter of the drainage pipeline. The depth of the pipe should be greater than the depth of soil freezing.

The pipe is covered with drainage material - gravel, fine gravel or sand. The minimum layer that will ensure the flow of water into the drain is 0.2 m

To save on geocomposite materials and prevent them from mixing with the soil, geotextiles are used. It freely passes water to the drains and at the same time retains particles that lead to siltation. The pipe itself must also be wrapped in protective material before backfilling. Some drain models are produced with ready-made geotextile filters.

It is possible to increase the efficiency of wall drainage using a profiled polymer membrane, which can be two- or three-layer. One of its layers is a polyethylene film with formed protrusions, the second layer of the membrane is a geotextile fabric.

The three-layer membrane is equipped with an additional layer of smooth polyethylene film. The membrane helps filter water from the soil and at the same time serves as a waterproofing layer for the foundation of the building.

Closed trench-type drainage protects the building from flooding and moisture. It is a filter layer, which is poured into a trench at a distance of 1.5-3 m from the wall of the house.

It is better that the depth of the drain is 0.5 m deeper than the base of the foundation - so the water will not exert pressure on it from below. Between the trench with drainage and the foundation of the house, a layer of clay soil remains, which serves as the so-called clay castle.

As with the installation of a wall drainage system, drains are laid on a layer of gravel or fine gravel. Both pipes and gravel layer are protected by geotextiles from clogging.

#4: Building a Wall Drain Step by Step

In order to get a visual representation of the drainage process around a country house, consider an example. The site given in it required the installation of a groundwater drainage system, tk. under the soil-vegetative layer lie loams and sandy loams, which are extremely poorly permeable to water due to their low filtration capacity.

Image Gallery

For drainage, we develop a trench around the house. Since the work was carried out with a mini-excavator, they retreated 1.2 m from the walls so as not to damage the building. If you save manually, you can make closer. The bottom of the working is 20-30 cm below the foundation

The branches of the trench formed around the house should have a slope towards the common trench, intended for the pipe for draining the collected water to the collector well

We fill the bottom of the trench with sand. We ram it and form a slope of 2-3 cm per linear meter. We direct the slope towards the common trench, the bottom of which is also filled and rammed. In the case of crossing the trench with communications, we take into account that the drainage pipes must pass below them

We prepare drains, perforated polymer pipes, for laying in a trench. We wrap them with geotextile, which will prevent clogging of the system and filter groundwater

We cover the rammed bottom of the trench with a second layer of geotextile, pour gravel on it and put drains

The channels for draining water from storm sewers and the drainage system are laid in one trench. It is permissible to divert the water collected from them into one collector and use common manholes

Having wrapped the gravel backfill along with the drainage pipe with a second layer of geotextile, we fill the trench with quarry sand. We do not use the soil dumped during the development of the trench, the sand will better pass the water to collect the drain

The effectiveness of the drainage system and its reliability depends not only on the correctness of the system design, but also on the quality of the materials used. Particular attention should be paid to HDPE drainage pipes with geotextiles. These elements of the system must be laid in compliance with the rules of the technical process.

Basic materials for drainage

The materials that are used to create a drainage system include:

• perforated pipes;
• drainage pumps;
• geotextile;
• drainage membranes.

To create an effective drainage system on the site, you need to learn more about each specified material.

What geotextile is needed for the drainage system

Geotextiles are needed in order to ensure the stability of the entire system and prevent subsidence of the soil in the trench. Also, this material is a filter that helps prevent silting of the drainage pipe.

The best material for use in the drainage system is a material that is made from virgin raw materials. It is worth noting that a feature of high-quality geotextiles is snow-white color.

For the drainage system, it is worth choosing thermally bonded geotextiles, since needle-punched geotextiles do not have the necessary hygroscopic characteristics. This is due to the fact that the second named type of geotextile is quickly clogged with soil.

Geotextiles can be replaced with drainage mats, which are made of geocomposite. But when buying them, it is worth remembering that they need to be wrapped with geofabric.

Geotextile laying process

When laying geotextiles in drainage ditches, the following rules must be observed:

1. The bottom and walls of the ditches must have a flat surface. It is also worth remembering that there should be no debris at the bottom.
2. Some types of the described material are sensitive to ultraviolet radiation. Because of this, you should not remove the wrapper before starting work.
3. If the geotextile was damaged during installation, it is worth replacing the used piece of material with a new one.
4. When laying, the formation of folds and waves should not be allowed. But at the same time, you also need to ensure that the canvas is not stretched, as this can lead to its rupture.


5. When laying material over a large area, it must be fixed.
6. To prevent damage to the material, it should be backfilled immediately after being placed in the trench.
7. After the backfilling of the drainage material over the geotextile is completed, it is necessary to wrap the edges of the material. In this case, the overlap of the edges should be about 20 cm. This will provide protection from contamination of the draining material.
8. At the last stage, it is necessary to lay soil on the edges of the geotextile and compact it.

When purchasing drainage pipes and geotextiles, you should not choose the cheapest products, as they may be of poor quality.

Drainage membranes

The membranes are usually made of polyethylene and have a pimply structure. It should be noted that membranes that are made from primary raw materials are more durable. If such products are made from recycled polyethylene, they can withstand a load approximately 2 times lower than the material from the primary one.

The membranes are designed to perform the following functions:

• protection of the waterproofing layer from mechanical damage;
• protection of waterproofing of building foundations;
• distribution of the load that arises from the pressure of the backfill soil, as well as from the pressure of groundwater;
• filtering groundwater and redirecting it to pipes;
• protection of the waterproofing layer on the exploited roof.

Thus, the described membranes are used in industrial and civil construction, in the creation of cottages, as well as during the construction of roads.

Types of drainage pumps and their areas of application

Pumps are divided into two main types:

• submersible;
• superficial.

Submersible pumps are completely immersed in water. They are more powerful, as they are often used to raise water from a well. Such units are compact and do not create noise during operation. The disadvantages of such products include the complexity of the repair, as well as the need to remove the pump from the ground for maintenance. Surface pumps are located at some distance from the water, and the water is pumped with a hose.

Drainage pumps can be used in everyday life, as well as in industry and construction. For example, they are often used in areas for pumping water from drainage wells. The pump can be permanently installed in the well or be submerged into it only when necessary. The second option for using the pump is used only if a small amount of water accumulates on the site.

Pipe design features

Almost all drainage pipes have a perforated surface. Due to this, the walls can be thin, but at the same time retain rigidity. At the same time, large-diameter pipes can be light in weight, which makes it easier to create a drainage system.

The described pipes may have one or two layers. In single-layer, the inner and outer surfaces are corrugated. Such products are characterized by good flexibility, so they are often used to organize drainage in the area. Double-layer pipes have a smooth inner surface, so that debris does not get stuck in the drainage system.

Double-layer pipes have greater rigidity, so they can be laid at a depth of up to 6 meters. If single-layer structures are used, they are used at a depth of 2 meters. When connecting the described elements, the same fittings are used that are used for PVC pipes. It is worth remembering that adhesive tape is not suitable for fastening such products, as it does not hold materials securely.

The principle of operation of the drainage system

If the site is located in a wetland or near a body of water, then a drainage system should be installed around the entire site. This will divert water from the foundation of the house and make the land suitable for planting crops.

The principle of operation of the drainage system is as follows:

• surface and ground water enters perforated pipes and is discharged into the sewerage system;
• after entering the sewer, the water is discharged into the drainage well.

While working, you should remember some points:

1. Drainage efficiency depends on the correct pipe diameter. If there is a lot of water on the site, you should choose the largest pipes.
2. Perforated drainage pipes with a diameter of 110 mm are able to collect moisture from the ground within a radius of about 5 meters. This figure should be taken into account when drawing up a sewer system plan.
3. In order for water to be removed more efficiently, it is necessary to lay the entire drainage system under a slope. The drainage well should be located below all other elements of the system.
4. During installation, it is necessary to sprinkle perforated pipes.

bouw.ru

How the drainage system works and types of drainage

The principle of operation of the drainage system is that artificial barriers are created in the way of groundwater movement from trenches filled with bulk materials - sand and gravel. Pipes with perforated walls, which are called drains, are laid at the bottom of the trenches with a certain slope. Groundwater, falling into such trenches, is filtered through sand and gravel and accumulates in drain pipes, and then is removed from the site by gravity.

There are several main types of drainage:

• Surface drainage.
• Deep drainage.
• Reservoir drainage.
• Wall drainage.

Surface drainage is performed to protect the site from surface water flooding. In this case, the depth of the trenches is not more than 50 cm.

With the device of deep drainage, the depth of the laying of drains can reach several meters. Reservoir drainage is arranged in the presence of pressure groundwater, when the use of other drainage systems is not enough.

Formation drainage usually consists of a layer of sand up to 30 cm thick, with strips of crushed stone spaced several meters apart, which may be laid under the entire building.

Wall drainage is used to protect basements and foundations from flooding.

The order of construction of the drainage system

For drainage, first of all, establish at what level the groundwater is in relation to the depth of the foundations and to the surface of the soil. The exact level of groundwater can be determined using engineering surveys, but if this is not possible, then information can be obtained by asking neighbors, especially if their houses have basements.

If groundwater rises to a level of less than 2.5 meters from the soil surface, then drainage must be performed.

Next, determine the place where you will discharge water from the drainage system. Of course, it is desirable to invite surveyors who can perform high-altitude survey of the site and the surrounding area with the help of precision instruments. But, if this is not possible, then the nearest water bodies - a river, a lake or ravines - can be a guide. They are always the lowest points of the terrain.

Then determine what types of drainage you need to build. If it is determined that the site is often and abundantly flooded by groundwater, then perform deep drainage to protect the garden and wall drainage for the foundations of the house.

If there are no reservoirs or ravines nearby for water discharge, make a water absorption well at least 3 meters deep. Fill the bottom in such a well with several layers of sand and gravel so that the water is filtered into the lower layers of the soil.

Drainage trench construction technology

The procedure for constructing a drainage trench is as follows:

• First, fill the bottom with coarse sand with a layer 50 mm thick.
• Lay the drainage pipe with a slope of 0.002 (2 mm per 1 linear meter) in clay soils and 0.003 (3 mm per 1 linear meter) in sandy ones. If the lower point of the runoff is located with a difference of several meters from the level of the site, then it is better to make a slope of up to 5-10 mm per 1 running meter. Wrap the drainage pipe with a special fabric - geotextile and cover it with a layer of washed gravel fraction 10-20mm 30-40cm thick.
• Next, lay another layer of coarse sand 10-20 cm thick. From above, fill the entire structure with soil previously removed from the trench. From above, cover the trench with a layer of turf to prevent silting of the drain.
• Lay the pipes, as in a conventional sewer, in straight lines, and arrange inspection and rotary wells on turns.

How to make wall drainage and garden protection

Wall drainage is designed to protect the foundations of the house and basement walls from flooding.

When installing near-wall drainage, on the wall, perform a pasting waterproofing from a Dreniz-type material, which consists of a waterproof polymeric and filtering geotextile layers.

Lay the drainage pipe along the perimeter of the house at a distance of at least 1 meter from the wall and not lower than the mark of the base of the foundation. To ensure the flow, determine the lowest mark of the bottom of the well on one of the corners of the house closest to the discharge point, and lay pipes from it with the necessary slope to other corners of the house.

To protect the garden and vegetable garden, make a drainage system in the form of a "herringbone" in plan with trenching to a depth of about 1 meter. At the same time, keep in mind that one pipe can dry up to 15-20m2 of area. Side pipes should be 60-70mm in diameter, and the main collector pipe should be at least 100mm. Connect drainage pipes using fittings - tees and elbows, as well as sewer pipes.

Materials for drainage systems

For drainage, use asbestos-cement, ceramic and polymer pipes. In asbestos-cement and ceramic pipes, make cut holes yourself. If you have to make cuts in asbestos-cement or ceramic pipes, then you need to know the following. Make cuts with a width of 4-5 mm, and the length of the cut should be half the diameter of the pipe, and they should be located alternately on both sides of the pipe after 50 cm. Lay pipes with cuts so that the cuts are in a horizontal plane.

Modern manufacturers now offer a large selection of polyethylene, plastic and PVC pipes with ready-made perforations. When choosing pipes with ready-made perforations, you need to know that plastic pipes can be laid at a depth of no more than 1 meter, polyethylene pipes no more than 3 meters, PVC pipes have the greatest strength and can be used at great depths - up to 10m.

Make rotary, water intake and manholes for the drainage system from reinforced concrete rings 600 mm high, the diameter of which should be from 400 to 700 mm. At the bottom of the wells, make concrete trays with a slope towards the general drain. Now on the construction market you can buy ready-made PVC wells with a diameter of 315mm and a depth of up to 3m.

By following all these instructions, you can make drainage with your own hands on your site without going there.

www.saitprodom.ru

Features and principle of operation of perforated drainage pipes

Perforated drainage pipes are the basis of deep drainage.

Thanks to the use of just such pipes, which well remove excess moisture from the soil, it is possible to maintain the required water balance.

At the same time, the territory of the site and the house will be protected from the negative impact of waterlogging, which occurs with heavy rainfall and a high level of groundwater.

Perforated pipe is a high performance product that is most commonly made today from plastics such as HDPE and PVC.

Plastic is of the highest quality and durability, reliability and affordable price, which led the material to a leading position in the ranking.

It has successfully replaced ceramics and asbestos cement and has become the material of choice for all modern developers and construction companies.

Such pipes are the best option for conducting a drainage system in a private house or cottage.

They will provide excellent water drainage from the territory and will deliver excess moisture to special reservoirs, ditches or artificially created wells.

Features and principle of operation of drainage pipes without perforation

You can use this material absolutely everywhere, because it has the highest technical and quality characteristics.

kanalizaciyasam.ru

Prerequisites for organizing drainage

Drainage is an expensive system, even if you do not have to pay for the services of specialists and the owner of the site is ready to do all the work on his own. Therefore, you should figure out how much it is generally needed.

The need for a system device cannot be determined “by eye”, because groundwater can lie close to the surface, which becomes a real problem only during floods or heavy rains.

Many areas are located in the lowlands. Waterlogged soil causes root rot, which creates many difficulties in caring for the garden and garden.

Plants often infect fungal diseases, “eat” mold. Some crops do not take root in wet soil, and the crop rots in the bud.

Dense clay soil rocks do not absorb water well. This leads to frequent flooding of the underground parts of buildings. Due to the high degree of mineralization, flood and atmospheric waters negatively affect buildings: they destroy building materials and provoke corrosion.

Even high-quality waterproofing is not able to 100% prevent basements, foundations, plinths from getting wet. As a result, buildings serve much less than they could.

You can determine whether drainage is needed on the site by several signs:

• terrain. Sites located in lowlands and on steep slopes need a drainage system. Otherwise, fertile soils can be eroded or flooded during rains and floods.
• Puddles. The flat terrain is convenient for construction, but puddles can appear and remain for a long time. This is a clear sign that water is poorly absorbed into the soil. A drainage system should be installed throughout the site.
• Plant root rot. If excess liquid remains in vegetable gardens, flower beds and lawns, the plants will rot and get sick.
• Moisture-loving plants. If one or more types of moisture-loving plants grow on the site, this clearly indicates waterlogging of the soil.
• Flooding of basements and cellars. An obvious "symptom" of the need for drainage is the flooding of foundations and underground building structures.
• Hydrogeological research and observations. If experts have determined that the site has a high GWL, or similar conclusions can be reached during excavation, care should be taken to drain the soil.

Proper laying of drainage pipes on the site is the only way to inexpensively and effectively get rid of excess water.

If you contact a specialized company, the system will cost significantly more. It is better to understand the features of the arrangement of drainage and do everything yourself.

The principle of the device of the drainage system

Soil drainage at the site can be closed, buried in the ground, and open, which is a network of open grooves.

In the first case, the system is designed to drain groundwater if it floods the site. In the second, drainage provides a decrease in soil moisture during the flood and rainy season.

Both types of systems can be developed and installed in-house.

Depending on whether it is necessary to collect moisture from the entire site or only from certain zones, drains are equipped with linear and point water inlets.

Systems of the first type require careful design; when arranging them, it is necessary to strictly observe the laying technology and the slope angle of the drainage pipes.

AT linear options, it becomes necessary if you need to drain the areas around buildings, paths, entrances, ennoble the local area or remove excess moisture from the garden.

Such drains are shallow ditches where water flows and then moves to special receiving tanks, storm sewers or to an off-site discharge point.

Point collectors also be sure to accurately calculate and design in advance. They serve to locally collect water, but are connected to a similar linear system of ditches or pipes.

Through the specified drainage channels, the collected water is discharged in the same way into the collector well and then into the absorbing well, gutter or pond. Therefore, work on the installation of systems with point water inlets is not much different from systems with linear options.

open systems very easy to perform and cheap, but they spoil the landscape with an unaesthetic appearance. Another disadvantage is that the walls of the ditches have to be constantly corrected, because. they crumble under the influence of moisture, and the system ceases to perform its functions (water stagnates at the bottom of the trenches and does not move to the place of discharge).

To solve the problem of shedding the walls of the ditches, you can use the method of backfilling with crushed stone: a large fraction material is laid on the bottom, and a fine fraction on top, after which the entire drainage cushion is covered with turf.

This option allows you not to trim or strengthen the walls of the trenches, but it is suitable for areas with relatively low humidity, because. the carrying capacity of the ditch is greatly reduced.

The use of polymer and concrete trays in the construction of open drainage greatly facilitates and speeds up the work. In order to ennoble the landscape and protect the systems from clogging, such open systems are covered with cast-iron gratings.

For arrangement closed system special perforated pipes are used - drains laid to the depth of the foundation. They are laid in pre-formed ditches, covered with material with excellent filtering properties, gravel, fine gravel or FMS. To control the operation of the system and carry out periodic cleaning, manholes are installed in the corners of the building.

When determining how to properly lay the drainage pipe to protect the plants from excess moisture, you can use the average values. As a rule, the optimal depth is 0.6-1.5 m.

Moreover, for flower beds, lawns, beds, it does not exceed 0.9 m, and to protect the rhizomes of trees, it is necessary to dig as deep trenches as possible, especially if the site is located on peat soils.

Types and parameters for selecting drainage pipes

Of all materials for the manufacture of pipes the most popular polymers. Their undeniable advantages are durability, resistance to chemicals and smooth inner walls that do not stick to dirt. Stormwater and groundwater drain into the pipeline and freely move to the water collectors by gravity.

The drainage system, assembled from modern materials, can serve up to half a century. The main thing is to mount it correctly, conduct technical inspections on time and not ignore the need for repairs.

Another advantage of polymers is their relatively low cost, since ready-made drainage is inexpensive, practical and durable.

Perfect solution - geotextile jacketed pipe. The outer material filters water while retaining dirt. Due to this, the pipelines do not silt.

Alternative to drain pipes - conventional sewer. You can easily make drainage from them with your own hands - for this, you just need to drill holes in the products, and wrap them with geotextile fabric on top.

If a local drainage system is required, pipes with a diameter of 100-200 mm can be dispensed with, and if it is necessary to remove moisture from a large area or there is too much water, it is better to choose products with a diameter of 300-400 mm. The best choice is special drain pipe with filter jacket.

Pipeline laying technology

When arranging drainage, the relief of the site is of fundamental importance. The system must be built in such a way that there are no problems with the outflow of fluid into the ditches. If there are no results of geodetic studies, you should independently draw up a diagram, marking on it the places where rainwater drains.

When creating a circuit, you need to be careful, because. errors will cause drainage to be ineffective. According to the finished drawing, they outline how to lay and tilt the drainage pipe and where to install the water collectors. After checking the data, markup is carried out on the ground and work begins.

The pipeline leads to a drainage well. If it is long and located on a flat area, manholes are equipped at each segment of 50 m. They are also needed in places where the pipeline turns and bends, where the slope changes.

A drainage well can also be built with your own hands. It consists of a bottom, a shaft with a neck and a hatch. The dimensions of the well should be large enough so that a person can descend into it and clean it of silt. If it is not possible to equip an overall well, then it should be equipped in such a way that it is possible to wash the walls with a hose and scoop out the dirt.

Concrete, plastic, brick can be used as materials for the manufacture of wells.

The strongest and most durable structures are made of reinforced concrete well rings. They have a large diameter, they are easy to maintain. Minus - difficulties with installation due to the large mass. As a rule, you have to attract assistants or use special equipment.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

When developing a scheme and during the construction of a drainage, some difficulties may arise. So that they do not become an obstacle to the qualitative removal of water from the site, check out useful videos.

Features of the arrangement of the drainage system on the site:

How to equip drainage in the country, using improvised means:

Features of arranging drainage in the garden:

The design of the drainage well made of polymers:

How to lay drainage pipes correctly:

To lay a drainage pipe with your own hands, it will take time and effort, but the costs will be only for materials. Do not save on them: get good quality pipes and wells. An effective drainage system will protect the planting of cultivated plants, the house, outbuildings from moisture and will last for many years. The main thing is not to forget to inspect and clean wells and drains in a timely manner.

sovet-ingenera.com

The reliability and efficiency of the drainage sewage system directly depends on both a properly designed project and the choice of its elements. Perforated drainage pipes must be laid in accordance with the technical process and connected accordingly.

Almost all perforated drainage HDPE pipes have a corrugated surface. This design allows a small wall thickness without loss of rigidity. Therefore, even products of large diameter have a relatively small weight. This greatly simplifies installation when it is required to organize the drainage of the site.

Photo: perforated pipe manufacturer Ruvinil

Pipes for drainage systems, equipped with perforations, are two-layer and single-layer. For the former, the inner surface is made smooth in order to facilitate the movement of debris (sand, earth particles, etc.) that enters the sewer system. Due to this, the likelihood of "overgrowing" of the pipe is reduced.

In single-layer pipes, both surfaces (internal and external) are corrugated. This design allows for more flexibility, so single-wall structures are great for organizing drainage in the area next to the house.

Due to the greater rigidity, the laying of two-layer pipes for drainage systems can be carried out to a depth of up to six meters. For single-layer structures, the limit is two meters.

When connecting the elements of the drainage system, the same fittings are used as for ordinary PVC pipes. Despite the fact that the sewerage system is considered non-pressure, it is not recommended to use adhesive tape to fasten pipes, as some "masters" suggest. The reliability of such a fastening is rather doubtful.

Drainage fittings

Almost all pipes for drainage systems are equipped with filter elements. There is a certain limitation regarding their shelf life. For example, perforated drainage pipes with geotextiles installed in the filter can be stored in a warehouse for up to one year.

For material based on coconut fibers, this period is limited to six months.

The territory of the site may be located in a wetland, a wet lowland or close to a reservoir, that is, in places that do not meet the accepted standard. In this case, a drainage system is installed around the house and the site.

This solution option will provide reliable protection for the foundation, and will also prevent rain and groundwater from accumulating in the surrounding area.

The principle of operation of the drainage system is as follows:

• surface and ground waters through perforated holes in a pipe laid in the soil enter the sewerage system;
• along it, they are diverted to the place of accumulation or disposal (for example, a drainage or collector well).

Those who are going to make a drainage system with their own hands, you need to pay attention to the following points:

• the efficiency of drainage depends on the correct choice of pipe diameter;
• a perforated drainage pipe with a diameter of 110 mm collects water within a radius of five meters (this should be taken into account when planning a drainage system);
• to drain groundwater, it is necessary to observe a slope towards a septic tank or a drainage well;
• interconnecting all elements of the system, one should adhere to the technology of this process;
• it is imperative that pipes are sprinkled when they are laid, and one should not forget about the drainage layer.

The correct installation of the drainage pipe around the house is shown in the figure.

Designations indicated in the figure:

• A - bulk soil or turf;
• B - waterproof layer (polyethylene film can act in this role);
• C - thermal insulation layer, recommended thickness 100mm;
• D - slope angle, as a rule, one centimeter by one meter (towards the storage well);
• E - filler;
• F - waterproofing coating of the basement of the building;
• G, K - drainage layer;
• H - storm sewer;
• J - pipe of the drainage system;
• L - hole in the base of the foundation.

Theoretically, it is possible to organize a drainage system without a ditch, but its efficiency will be low, so we will not consider this option.

When the main drainage system passes under the roadway intended for the movement of heavy vehicles, GOST indicates that the laying depth must be at least a meter. At the same time, a “cushion” is created under the pipe, at least 50 mm thick. The composition of the leveling layer (cushion) can be made of sand or crushed stone with a particle size of up to 32 mm.

Pipes with thin walls are laid in places where they will not be subjected to high loads, that is, near the house or in the area adjacent to it.

Crushed stone and sand are used as sprinkling, the layer thickness is from 50 mm. Its purpose is to protect the drainage line from mechanical damage and, at the same time, not prevent groundwater from entering the system.

A prerequisite is the equipment with geotextiles or geofabric, which act as a filter that does not allow debris to enter the system. It can cause clogging. The pipe is wrapped with geofabric, or the filter membrane is laid on the bottom and walls of the ditch.

It is recommended to use a pipeline with a diameter of 110 mm, this is the best option for organizing drainage in the area near the house. Despite the fact that the price of double perforated pipes is higher than single ones, it is better to buy them for the drainage system. In this case, there is less risk of clogging.

To ensure high efficiency in removing water from the soil, it is required to install a separate well, the cover of which is best made with a lattice. It will be supplied with water from a storm sewer. In this case, you do not have to worry about filling the septic tank.

The drainage system must be independent of the storm, otherwise there is a high risk of flooding the foundation of the building with water. At the same time, the large diameter of the double (smooth-walled) drainage pipe will not save the situation.

As a rule, storm and drainage sewers are laid side by side, observing one angle of slope. Each of them can be directed to a common well if a reverse-acting valve is placed on its inlet. It will not allow water to enter the drainage system.

The device of such a valve is shown in the figure.

Reverse Acting Valve Schematic

• A - a valve that opens under the influence of the incoming flow;
• B - valve spring;
• C - working flow (in our case, water from storm or drainage sewers).

It is desirable to divert water from collector wells to a public storm sewer system. If this is not possible, water can be supplied to an open drain, or drained onto a specially prepared layer of crushed stone, where it will be absorbed by the soil.

Sewer well laying

There are many options for the disposal of water accumulated by drainage and storm wells, examples of implementation are a separate issue.

Perforated drainage pipes require periodic maintenance to remove debris. In addition, it will be necessary to clean the collector well from the accumulation of silt. Then you should check the correct position of the check valve.

vizada.ru

Drainage pipes: what is it and how they work

They are also called drains. They perform the functions of receiving and diverting water, which are so necessary and important for draining the area. The system of interconnected drains is called drainage.

The principle of their work is simple and understandable, so the owners of land most often make the drainage system on their own. Drains are laid along or around the site (building) with a slope of 1% (1 cm per meter) towards any water collector (ditch, collector well, pit, canal, reservoir) or the lowest point of the terrain. Gravel, sand and soil fall asleep on top.

Drains are drainage (suction) and collecting. On the walls of the drainage pipes there are holes located in a certain order. It is through the walls and junctions that water enters the drains and is transferred to the collectors (drainage wells), and from there, through the collecting cavities, it is discharged outside the boundaries of the area being drained. Thus, a sufficiently thick, dry, stable piece of land is formed.

Varieties of drainage pipes

In the modern world, with the advent of new technologies, the requirements for wastewater systems are constantly growing. The use of outdated schemes and materials is inappropriate and difficult.

Asbestos-cement pipes, as well as ceramic ones, have already become a thing of the past. They were replaced by plastic drainage materials - light, comfortable, flexible, non-corrosive, reliable, safe and durable. They withstand high temperature fluctuations (-70 to +50°C) and are easy to install, so they can be laid with your own hands. For their manufacture use:

• vinyl plastic or NPVC (unplasticized polyvinyl chloride);
• polyethylene HDPE and PVC (low and high density).

Where are drain pipes used?

Drainage pipes have found application not only in everyday life for diverting excess groundwater from foundations and plinths and the installation of drainage wells, but also in civil and industrial construction (melioration, laying highways). For each case, it is necessary to correctly select the dimensions and technology of manufacturing elements.

Dimensions

When choosing drainage pipes, it is important to correctly determine their size. The performance of the entire system depends on the diameter of the drains. For domestic needs, materials Ø 200 mm will be sufficient, and pipes Ø 300–400 mm will be needed to drain a large volume of water. The most common are elements with a diameter of 110 mm.

To accurately determine the size, you need to consider:

• soil texture;
• the level of freezing and moistening of the soil;
• planned volumes of drainage;
• pipe laying depth (for each diameter there is a maximum allowable depth);
• trench width. It should be 40 cm larger than the diameter of the pipe.

Drains with a diameter of more than 300-400 mm are considered industrial, in everyday life they are used to build wells. The drainage system does not always consist of elements of the same diameter, in which case a reducer (adapter) is required for connection.

Design features

The main difference between a drain and a conventional pipe is the presence of perforation (partial or complete). With full perforation, 1.3 mm holes are located every 60° along the circumference of the cross section. Partial perforation provides three slotted holes in the upper part of the shell. Holes are made between corrugations (stiffening ribs) that provide rigidity and durability of the system.

To create shallow drainage, where materials are laid to a shallow depth, single-layer corrugated drains with a stiffness class of 2-4 kN / m² are perfect.

Two-layer drains, which have high strength and stiffness class, are usually used to solve more global problems that require deep backfilling. In places with a high probability of clogging (sand, small grains of soil), drains with a filter layer or special filter material are used.

Types of drainage pipes

To create a drainage system, you can use the following types:

• ceramic;
• asbestos-cement;
• polymeric.

The first two types are used less and less over the years. Their high cost and short service life affect.

Polymer pipes have a number of advantages, the main of which are low cost of layout and operation, high service life and the ability to make a drainage system with one's own hands.

Perforated pipes

Almost all polymer pipes have a corrugated surface and a small wall thickness. Therefore, drainage products of even large diameters are light in weight, which facilitates the organization of drainage in general.

Can you do your own perforation? It is possible, but not desirable, unless you are an expert in sopromat and higher mathematics. Factory perforation is thought out to the smallest detail and is ideal in geometry. Made in a handicraft way, it will be unreliable - the slightest mistake can affect the operation of the entire system and lead to the formation of a swamp instead of land reclamation.

The holes are made in the form of narrow and long slots to minimize the entry of debris into the pipes. The number of such slots per circle is almost the same for all manufacturers:

• 360° - the holes are located in general around the entire circumference. Such perforation is used in heavily flooded areas with approximately equal amounts of groundwater and precipitation;
• 240° - the lower segment in 1/3 of the perimeter of the circumference of the section remains non-perforated. These pipes have shown themselves well as drainage bases in areas with heterogeneous soil or natural slope;
• 180 ° - commonly called a half, used in areas where one type of water exceeds the other (for example, there is much more melt water than ground water or vice versa) or as an application to storm drains;
• 120° is an infrequently used configuration, used for low volume surface drainage.

The main advantage of perforated pipes is that they work with the entire surface. This guarantees efficient drainage, clean channels and drains.

Pipes in geotextile

Geotextile - a braid for perforated elements that protects holes from clogging. Drains in such a braid are well suited for loamy and sandy lands. For domestic drainage pipes, geotextiles with a density of 100-200 g / m² are used, although it can also be denser - up to 600 g / m².

The higher the density, the higher the price, so the geotextile fabric should be selected rationally so as not to increase the cost of drainage work unnecessarily. In addition to drainage geotextiles, other varieties of it are also produced: road and needle-punched, so if you buy this material separately, pay attention to its purpose.

Key functions of geotextile braid:

• reinforcement - strengthening the bearing capacity of the base;
• surface protection - prevention (or limitation) of damage to the working part of the pipe;
• drainage - collection and removal of precipitation and groundwater;
• filtration of impurities - retention of sand and soil (anti-suffusion screen).

Ceramic pipes

They are made from lamellar clay with possible additives. There are perforated ceramic pipes and with a corrugated outer surface (grooves increase the absorption properties).

According to GOST standards, three types of pipes are produced: cylindrical, six- or octagonal. All varieties have a geometrically regular cross-sectional shape:

• inner contour - circle;
• the outer contour is a polygon or a circle.

Ceramic pipes do not have sockets. In drainage systems, they are interconnected by means of couplings and clamps.

HDPE pipes

HDPE is probably the best pipes for modern drainage systems. They are distinguished by an extended service life (50 years), strength (withstand water freezing), and elasticity. For plastic pipes, a wide variety of connecting elements and fittings are produced, so a system of any length and configuration can be built on them. Such drains are the basis of underground drainage.

They have good throughput, are multifunctional, therefore they are successfully used in private, civil and industrial construction. HDPE are perforated on all sides, only on top or with alternating rows of holes and a smooth surface.

The principle of operation and the process of laying them is the same as for other types of pipes.

Experienced builders advise using HDPE corrugated pipes for greater efficiency, laying them in crushed stone.

Polypropylene pipes

Polypropylene drains are very popular because of their properties:

• long service life and high stability;
• the ability to withstand high loads and strong pressure in the system;
• ease of transportation and assembly;
• good self-cleaning due to smooth inside walls;
• resistance to clogging and flooding.

To connect them, thermal welding (soldering iron) is needed, but the PP pipes connected in this way form a monolithic structure. And this is their main advantage.

In a word, drainage polypropylene matrials are an impeccable ratio of price and quality.

Pipes with coconut winding

Coconut fiber is a type of filter material. This binding has its pros and cons:

• 100% natural composition;
• high resistance to deformation, decay and mold;
• elasticity;
• excellent moisture permeability;
• reliable protection against clogging;
• the ability to standardize (bring together) the drainage system with storm and sewerage.

Of the shortcomings, it is worth noting only a considerable price. However, taking into account a lot of positive qualities and the period for which the system will be laid in the ground, drainage materials with coconut coating should be given the most serious attention.

PVC pipes

Made from polyvinyl chloride. Like all drainage materials, they are used to drain the area, drain water from the upper layers of roads, and protect buildings from excessive moisture. They are mainly used for deep drainage, since such modifications, according to the norms, have a good laying depth (up to 10 m from the surface) and have:

• high strength;
• resistance to various chemical elements;
• good manufacturer's warranty.

The only drawback is that these products are very sensitive to shocks in cold weather and can be deformed, so their transportation in cold weather is difficult, it must be carried out very carefully to avoid losses.

Pipes with expanded polystyrene

Drainage pipes filled with expanded polystyrene are suitable for a wide range of applications. This is a great alternative to other types of polymeric materials that are recommended to be laid in gravel. Here, crushed stone is not needed, unless it is part of the support structure.

When choosing, consider:

• the length of the entire drainage system and its throughput;
• ground water level;
• catchment area;
• estimated water pressure in and out of the system;
• soil type and permeability.

The undoubted advantage of such pipes can be called the fact that their length can be easily reduced with the help of improvised wire, clamp or rope.

Chrysotile cement pipes

Chrysotile - white asbestos, environmentally friendly without any toxic and harmful impurities. It is not dangerous to human health, so pipes from it are used when setting up a wide variety of pipelines, including the drainage system.

A distinctive feature of such products is the penetration of water not through holes in the walls, but through the pores. They can be used in any soil: cohesive, non-cohesive, acidic and alkaline, with high mineralization.

• excellent water permeability;
• long service life (over 25 years);
• high strength: withstand high pressure (up to 5.8 MPa) and strong mechanical stress;
• increased bookmark depth;
• simple and clear connections;
• affordable prices and the optimal level of patency.

Cons: Transportation, handling and assembly of large diameter pipes requires special construction equipment, which makes installation expensive

Drainage pipe manufacturers

The construction market offers a huge range of imported and domestic drainage products. Among our manufacturers, the most famous are such enterprises as Ruvinil, Nashorn, Politek, KamaPolymer LLC and others. Polieco, Uponor, Wavin and Rehau products are popular among foreign suppliers.

Pipes for drainage "Perfocor"

Perforated polyethylene products. Designed for the assembly of solid drainage systems. They have increased resistance to aggressive atmospheric phenomena due to the double wall, white inside (smooth) and black outside (corrugated). The stiffness of the rings ranges from SN4 (in 50 meter coils) to SN8 (in 6 meter lengths).

They are produced in Russia according to the standards prescribed in the technical conditions 2248-004-73011750-2007. For different diameters, it is possible to use a wide range of Korsis fittings (elbows, tees, couplings, adapters, plastic wells), and drains Ø 110–160 mm are perfectly connected without the use of sealing rings with ECOPAL couplings.

Pipes for drainage "Korsis"

Specialized for the arrangement of storm drains and free-flow sewers. Manufactured from high quality polyethylene according to technical standards 2248-001-73011750-2005, they have a double wall - black corrugation on the outside and white smooth inside (or yellow for PR-2 and PR-3 contours).

Corsis shaped components are used for connection to the system. Moreover, elements of large diameter (from 250 mm to 1200 mm) are produced with an already welded socket, so only one sealing ring is used during assembly. Pipes of smaller diameter are connected by a Korsis coupling and two rubber O-rings.

The main manufacturer is the POLYPLASTIC group, which has its own facilities in many regions of Russia, Kazakhstan, Belarus and Ukraine.

Pipes for drainage "Pragma"

This is a PipiLife development for the needs of storm, municipal and industrial drainage, for the removal of wastewater during road construction. The material is a special type of polypropylene (PP-b), which is less vulnerable to impacts and perfectly withstands powerful drains and large temperature differences (-60°C to +100°C). In this way, Pragma drains compare favorably with PVC pipes.

High ring stiffness of 8 kN/m² makes them indispensable in particularly difficult laying conditions. Undoubted advantages of Pragma materials: they are easily mounted, freely cut and easily connected to each other, with HDPE and PVC pipes, sewer smooth-walled routes, as well as with polymer and concrete wells. Assembly and laying do not require the use of heavy construction equipment, which saves on construction and installation work.

Pipes for drainage "Softrock"

They are produced according to the technology of the foreign company SoftRock. Scope of application: indoor drainage of a septic tank, land, basement, foundation, roof drain. They quickly gained popularity. The main advantage is that working with them is simple and fast. The SoftRock drainage system consists of a flexible perforated pipe filled with Russian-made polystyrene foam (“cube”) or imported (“hedgehog”). The SoftRock design eliminates the need for crushed stone and increases the efficiency of the drainage system by 20-50%.

Video: installation of the drainage system Softrock

Pipes for storm sewers

Stormwater pipes will help to divert melt and rainwater from the building. They, together with gutters, trays and storm water inlets, form an above-ground or underground storm sewer and ensure the safety and durability of the building. Requirements for materials: strength, resistance to solar and mechanical influences, sediment reagents, temperature extremes.

For the construction of the drain, cast-iron, polymer or reinforced concrete pipes are used (laying under roads). It is important to choose the right diameter so that there is no overflow of storm drains. For private houses, sewer pipes Ø 100 mm are used.

Drainage pipes for underground water

They are the basis of water disposal systems. They collect water and remove it outside the site. They help to cope with increased soil moisture, dampness in cellars, the appearance of mold and frost, the formation of puddles and ice on paved surfaces, and prevent rotting of the root system of plants.

Waterproofing (foundations, walls) is not always effective. An effective drainage system is needed. When choosing its design, first determine the type of soil and only then proceed to the purchase of material. In order for the drainage network to work smoothly, the drains are placed at a specially calculated depth. For this, two conditions must be met:

• lay pipes below the freezing level of the soil;
• lay at least 50 cm deeper than the bottom mark of the base of buildings (near which drainage is carried out).

For deep laying it is necessary to use pipes with increased strength (double-sided pipe).

Table: drainage for different soils

Laying a drainage pipe with your own hands

A large accumulation of groundwater can cause irreparable damage, for example, flood the foundation, as a result of which a house built, it would seem, for centuries, will shrink. There will be a warp of the roof, walls, doors and windows. Excessive humidity will affect the health of those living in the house, because mold and fungus will constantly form in the wettest places. You can avoid all this by installing even the simplest, but high-quality drainage system.

1. Ditch preparation:
   • first, all ditches are marked and a place for a collector well into which groundwater will be discharged. Be sure to have a slope towards the water intake, otherwise the water will stagnate in the pipes. If the surface of the site is uneven, then ditches are dug along the relief. On a flat surface, the slope is created artificially;
   • the number of trenches depends on the type of soil and its degree of moisture. On clay soils, drains are laid more often. The depth of the ditches depends on the type of drainage, but not less than 0.5 m, the width increases as it approaches the water collector (well);
   • when the trenches are dug, the bottom is prepared for laying materials. They create a shock-absorbing cushion - a 10-centimeter layer of granular sand and on top of this same layer of gravel, on which drains are already placed in a geotextile winding (for other types of drains, geotextiles are laid in such a way that they cover the pipes when backfilled).
2. Pipe laying and system assembly. The drainage is laid out into ditches and connected to each other with the help of fittings (crosses, tees, couplings), forming a single network. After laying the pipes and assembling the system, you need to make a control check of the slope using an ordinary household cord stretched along the line of passage of the elements. In places of rotation and where the angle of inclination changes, manholes with covers must be installed to clean the entire system.
3. Connection of drainage elements to each other. The most important thing when connecting is good sealing:
   • one of the easiest ways is to fit PVC pipes on glue: the degreased surface of the joint of a smaller diameter is smeared with glue, the elements are connected, and the joint is once again treated with moisture-resistant glue;
   • you can use heat welding (only for polypropylene types): the joints are heated, the pipes are joined and left to cool. Molten polypropylene, solidifying, provides good tightness;
   • small diameter elements can be connected with compressor fittings and turnbuckles. The quality of the connection is not inferior in strength to welding.
4. Performing a backfill. After checking the operation of the system, it is backfilled (if the system is of a closed type). For better water permeability, the pipes are sprinkled with gravel or crushed stone, covered with geotextiles, and then with a layer of sand (10–15 cm). From above, earth is poured above the soil level. Precipitation will pass, snow will fall, and over time, land mounds will settle and level with the surface of the site. An open drainage system is decorated with gravel of different sizes. If the last layer is decorated with marble chips, and plants are planted along the edges of the ditches, then you get a unique landscape design.

Video: do-it-yourself open drainage from pipes and improvised iron

Drainage pipe cleaning

A clogged drainage system is not able to fully perform its functions, so it is important to clean it periodically to get rid of lime buildup inside.

mechanical way

Different methods are used depending on the location of the system. If it lies on the surface, then cleaning can be done manually on your own. For deep drainage, you will need a pneumatic installation with a cleaning roller and a special nozzle for crushing large growths. Cleaning should be done every 3-4 years.

People living in country houses often face the problem when excess water accumulates in the area adjacent to the building due to heavy rains or snowmelt, which in turn disrupts the comfort of living. Also, a complicating factor is the high level of groundwater in the area. Problems of this nature arise in properties located in lowlands or on hillsides, where the content of clay in the soil reaches high levels. Excessive moisture in the soil has a detrimental effect on the foundation of the building, eroding the adjacent soil layers and flooding the basements.

Drainage - a technology for removing excess moisture from the foundation

The drainage system, which will collect and drain excess water from the territory adjacent to the house, will help get rid of the above problems. Such a tool can be used throughout the site, but this is a rather costly option in terms of finances and time. Installing drainage around the house is a sufficient measure for a comfortable stay.

What is drainage

Drainage- This is a system that removes excess moisture from the building using a pipe structure. There is an opinion that only a blind area is enough to effectively collect water, but experts in this field recommend installing a full-fledged drainage system, which allows for much better protection of the building from the harmful effects of moisture.

No matter how beautiful the blind area is, it will not completely protect the house from moisture.

Drainage system for home can be of three types:

Open. It is a structure where open-type trenches are used as drainage drains, the depth and width of which is 0.5 meters. This is the easiest drainage option for self-installation. The disadvantages of such a system include an unaesthetic appearance, as well as the unreliability of the structure, which will require additional strengthening of the walls with special trays;

Zasypnaya. This is a structure where the prepared trenches are covered with coarse gravel or rubble, and turf is laid on top. The advantage of such drainage is a long service life and ease of installation. In addition to pluses, there are also minuses: low throughput, impossibility of maintenance;

Closed. It is carried out by laying drainage pipes with holes in the ground. Such a system is distinguished by its efficiency and lack of disadvantages of other systems. Its minus is a rather complicated installation.

A closed drainage system is difficult to do correctly without certain skills and knowledge.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of installation and design of sewerage and water supply. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Mistakes that are made when performing drainage independently

The installation of a drainage system without the participation of specialists is often accompanied by the following errors:

Use of a wall drainage system to ensure the removal of excess moisture in areas with a high level of groundwater;

The use of the pipeline in geotextile type filters in areas with clay soil, which will eventually lead to clogging;

The use of levels during the laying of the pipeline;

Installation of storm wells where drainage should be installed;

The most common mistake is to install one drainage system around the house. As practice shows, this is too little. It is imperative to install a drainage system that will drain water from the roof of the building into a special well.

Also, the use of one pipeline for drainage and stormwater around the house should be avoided, as the drainage will not cope with its functions during rains, which will lead to flooding of the site. Waterlogging of the soil near the foundation can lead to its heaving during frosts, which in turn will have a detrimental effect on the foundation of the house, up to complete destruction.

Soil heaving is one of the serious reasons leading to the destruction of the house.

For the manufacture of storm water, orange-colored sewer pipes (designed for soil) and special wells are used, where excess water will accumulate, which can later be watered with vegetation.

Varieties of drainage systems

The drainage scheme around the house is divided into two main varieties:

Surface(violates the aesthetic appearance of the site);

Deep(perforated pipes are used).

Surface drainage

Surface drainage around the house is more affordable, simple and easy to perform all the necessary operations. Such drainages cannot cope with groundwater and are used only to divert melt and rainwater. There are the following surface drainage systems:

Linear. It is used to divert rain and melt water from the entire area of ​​​​the site. Through trenches dug in the soil, water is diverted to a special well, where it accumulates. Such channels are closed from above with decorative gratings;

Spot. They are used to quickly collect water from a single source. Such drainage is closed with a special metal grate to prevent blockage. All local points are connected by pipes to the main pipeline, which drains water into a drainage well;

Carefully closed points will not interfere with the inhabitants of the yard and will not spoil the exterior of the house

Open. It is a system of channels and gutter trays designed to drain excess water. Its unimpeded movement is ensured by a bevel in the trench at an angle of about 30o, directed towards the main trench or drainage well. The advantage of an open type drainage system is low cost and ease of performing the necessary work. The disadvantages include the destructibility of the walls of the trench and not an aesthetic appearance;

Closed. The arrangement is similar to open drainage, with the exception of the use of special trays with decorative grilles, which allows to increase the service life of the structure, as well as increase safety;

Zasypnaya. This type of system is used in areas with a small area, where it is impractical to install open drainage. Arrangement of backfill drainage begins with digging a channel with a depth of 1 meter (the slope should be directed towards the drainage well). The base of the trench is covered with geotextile, after which it is covered with coarse crushed stone or gravel. To give an aesthetic appearance to the site, the structure is covered with a layer of turf from above. Such drainage of the house and the site has its drawbacks, these include the impossibility of maintenance during operation without dismantling.

This is how the scheme of backfill protection against moisture looks like

Deep type drainage

In places with a high level of groundwater, or in possessions with clay soil located in the lowlands, a deep drainage scheme is applied around the house. Systems of this type must cope with the removal of large volumes of water, so the arrangement process is accompanied by the use of perforated pipes, the diameter of which depends on the amount of liquid removed.

For the arrangement of deep drainage, see the video:

There are two types of deep drainage system around the house:

Wall. It is installed in country houses with a basement or basement. Such drainage does not require additional work for the arrangement, as it is installed during the laying of the foundation. Pipelines are laid directly into the excavation dug under it. At the lowest point of the trench, it is necessary to install a drainage tank, which will serve as a storage well, or drain water outside the site;

Ring. Ring drainage around the house is used in areas with a high content of clay in the soil, as well as in the absence of basements and basements in the house. Trenches are dug at some distance from the building (2-3 meters). The drainage depth around the house must be half a meter more than the lowest point of the foundation. This is necessary to improve the effectiveness of its protection. A layer of rubble is laid at the bottom of the trenches.

The ring system is used in clay areas, and in the absence of a basement and basement in the house

The cost of installing turnkey drainage systems

Hiring specialists allows you to avoid many mistakes in the arrangement of the drainage system. There are many companies on the market that provide drainage installation services, including project development and all necessary work. The average cost of such services is 2300-5000 rubles per square meter and a depth of 1 to 3 meters, respectively.

Also, additional services can be offered, which are paid separately:

Laying a pipeline for a storm sewer system. The cost of laying pipes to a shallow depth on average reaches 1,000 rubles per linear meter, and laying to a freezing depth is available at a price of about 1,800 rubles;

The cost of manufacturing a manhole depends on the depth of installation and reaches approximately 7,000-10,000 rubles for a recess of 1.5-3 meters, respectively;

When connecting pipes to a manhole, it is important to make sure that the joints are tight

Arrangement of a shower receiver is available at an average price of 4000 rubles.

Important! It is better to sign contracts for the installation of turnkey drainage systems with trusted companies that provide a warranty period, which should be at least 3 years.

The price for the arrangement of drainage is formed and depends on the following conditions:

Land area(the calculation of the cost depends on the length of the channels);

Complex necessary works;

Slope angle(height between the top and bottom points of the trench);

soil type(works on wet clay soil are more expensive than those on ordinary soil);

Ground water level(deep drainage is more expensive than surface drainage).

Visually about drainage systems, see the video:

Conclusion

Arrangement of a drainage system in suburban areas is a necessary condition for a comfortable stay in a private house. The right choice of drainage scheme and its correct installation will help protect the foundation of the building from the harmful effects of moisture, which will ensure a long service life of the entire structure. You can carry out the arrangement of the drainage system yourself, but it is better to trust professionals who will do all the necessary work efficiently and quickly.

Land owners often face the problem of excess water after snowmelt, rain or high groundwater levels. Excess moisture is harmful not only to plant roots, but also leads to flooding of basements and even to premature destruction of building foundations. Installing a drainage system will help to cope with this problem. This is an engineering structure, thanks to which storm and groundwater are discharged outside the site.

The system includes point drainage systems and linear channels. Drainage is a gravity system. Pipes (drains) are laid with a uniform slope (1–3 cm per meter of length). This is especially important in silty soils. The decrease should go away from the house. Manholes are arranged at pipe bends. They make the system easier to maintain. Straight sections are equipped with wells every 30-50 meters.

Layout of drains on the site according to the "Christmas tree" scheme

Drains on the site are laid out according to the "Christmas tree" pattern. The diameter of the auxiliary pipes is 75 millimeters, the main one is 100 millimeters. Through the central pipe, water is discharged outside the site.

Do not lay pipes close to the house and the fence. The distance from the foundation to the pipe is at least 1 meter.

Types of drainage

Drainage can be done open and closed. The choice of drainage system depends on the climate, the type of soil. The level of groundwater is also important.

1. Open drainage is the easiest way to arrange drainage. Water flows down the ditches to a predetermined place. Drainage trays with decorative gratings are also used. The most important thing here is the slope. It should be 2-3 centimeters per meter of length.
2. The closed version is more common. These are branched drainage systems located in the ground. Pipes or crushed stone are placed at the bottom of the trench. Brushwood or large stones are also suitable for this. The main thing is that the material conducts water. To make the water decrease faster, the slope is 2-5 centimeters per meter of length.

open system

A ditch is dug around the perimeter of the site and the house. The width should be 40–50 centimeters, the depth 50–60 centimeters. The slope is made to a common water intake trench. For better drainage of water, the walls of the ditch are beveled at an angle of 30 degrees.

Such a system has its own characteristics:

• insignificant cost;
• work does not take much time;
• has an unaesthetic appearance;
• with a large amount of water, it is necessary to increase the depth of the ditch, which increases the likelihood of falls and injuries;
• over time, the wall of such a ditch collapses.

Decorative trays extend the life of the drainage system and give a more aesthetic appearance.

Trays are used to increase the service life. They can be plastic or concrete. Decorative grilles increase safety. The appearance of the site is also improved.

Modern drainage according to a linear scheme involves the use of special parts: channels, gutters and trays, which are installed in pre-prepared ditches, dug to the place of water collection with a slope. Lattices are laid over such ditches.

closed system

A pipe drain carries water to a catchment well. Drainage drains are laid in trenches. Perforated pipes are covered with crushed stone and covered with geotextiles. Connecting with the collector, the water is discharged to the collection well.

With the help of a network of drainage pipes, soil excess moisture is discharged into separately located drainage wells.

The closed type includes a drainage pit. A hole dug to a depth of 2 meters is filled with gravel. It collects excess moisture. In the future, the water gradually goes into the soil.

Backfill drainage is similar to closed, but the difference between them is that instead of pipes, in this case, the trench is half filled with large rubble or broken bricks. The upper part of the trench is covered with a smaller fraction - small stone or gravel. The top layer is made of soil. Backfill drainage is now rarely used. On clay soils, the system quickly fails. The filter media is silted up and does not let water through.

Modern drainage systems

Modern industry offers new types of drainage systems. Synthetic materials are durable and lightweight. The versatility of parts ensures ease of assembly.

Pipe and pipeless structures have been developed. Plastic devices are environmentally friendly. Pipes are sold with or without geotextile wrapping. The drainage kit includes two-layer drains and synthetic filters.

Gravel-free systems

Instead of crushed stone are used synthetic aggregates. The bottom of the trench is tamped and covered with sand. Lay pipes taking into account the slope. Layers are covered with permeable material tecton.

The thickness of the backfill depends on the permeability of the soil. Usually it is 100-300 millimeters. Geotextiles are laid on top and soil is poured. Soft drainage is more expensive, but more effective than crushed stone.

Geotextile is used in drainage systems as a separating layer

Systems without pipes

According to new technologies, pipes can be replaced with another design. Synthetic drainage mats are now being produced. This is a three-dimensional plastic mesh wrapped with geotextile. Lightweight products made of composite material are easy to install. Their advantage is protection against silting.

Even if the upper or lower layers of the geotextile are silted up, the drainage grid itself will continue to work perfectly and drain groundwater

With strong soil moisture, there are enlarged systems. These are drainage tunnels and fields. Plastic elements are assembled into monumental structures. They can be used in large areas.

softrock systems

The cassette consists of a perforated pipe and polystyrene foam filler. The structure is covered with a durable woven mesh. The top layer is made of double geotextile. Special channels improve water flow. A drainage cassette is 35–60% more efficient than a system with crushed stone.

The flexible pipe in the case has a length of 3 meters. She is completely ready to install. The softrock drainage system is located at a depth of 45 centimeters. After installation, they are covered with soil.

The softrock system uses expanded polystyrene instead of crushed stone

According to customer reviews, the system is reliable and durable. Many have installed it on their own. The time of year does not affect the production of works. Particularly noted is the flexibility of the sections, which makes it possible to bend around trees and buildings.

After the autumn showers, the water stood in the basement, it was necessary to make high-quality drainage. I remembered the crushed stone and figured out in my mind how many resources I need to swell into this project: time, labor, transport to transport this crushed stone, and then scatter it ... I was looking for instructions on the Internet, stumbled upon Softrock, decided to take a chance and did not regret it. Easy, inexpensive, modern and wise: Styrofoam balls are stuffed into the belt. Indeed, everything is ingenious - simply

Valentinehttp://softrock.ru/o-nas/otzyvy/

The pipe there is the same as that of a 110 or 160 pipe, it is the same, the filtration element is only foam plastic, with poor soils of sand and gravel, you can kill a lot and the site will turn into a swamp, and this pipe can be laid down with a landscaped area, it will turn out neatly. The main thing that year was doing 2 sections from the standard system geotextiles, sand, crushed stone + pipe + crushed stone, geotextile soil., the second is only softrock - in the first section the soil has not yet left and the water is standing, and the softrock works faster. It has a surrounding foam layer, it is like a heater for drainage, and the diameter is stable 27 cm. Of course, everything depends on its purpose, it’s just that the softrock will go along the site, and if it doesn’t carry the load on the road.

Drenazh2013https://www.forumhouse.ru/threads/195034/page-3

Modern and high-quality drainage, if you, like me, did not know how technology stepped in this area, then look at softrock, there is something to be surprised at. Very easy to install, no maintenance required. No rubble or problems. The outer material only passes water, it is not necessary to clean. No, it's really very convenient.

Cinderellahttps://www.otovarah.ru/forum/topic/4373-drenazh-softrok-softrock/

Drainage for storm water

The facade, foundations, and the territory near the house suffer from precipitation. Stormwater drainage system includes:

• roof drains;
• point storm water inlets;
• storm sewer;
• drainage system.

With the help of gutters and pipes, water is removed from the roof. Downspouts are installed under the drainpipe. They direct water through pipes to storm sewers. Typically, two-layer polymer drains are used. They are laid in trenches at a slope of 2 centimeters by 1 meter.

Drainage system and storm sewer

Rainwater must be removed from the building. To do this, drainage wells or storage tanks are arranged in the drainage system. Rainwater is collected in a sealed reservoir. It can be used for irrigation or technical purposes.

The walls of the well are reinforced with concrete rings. The depth should be at the level of the filtering layer of soil. Then the water will gradually go into the soil. If such layers lie deep, wells are drilled. The level of groundwater must be taken into account. At their high level, the wells are inefficient.

Storm sewage for a country house should be installed simultaneously with the drainage system for a more correct calculation of water drainage

Installation of the drainage system: phased technology

Before starting installation, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the site, mark natural slopes, and determine the level of groundwater. According to the scheme, mark the trenches on the ground. For this, pegs and a cord are used.

Calculation and drainage scheme

The calculation consists in determining the upper and lower points of the system. The lower point corresponds to the place of water discharge. The top is selected 30 centimeters below the foundation. The slope angle is taken not less than 1%.

You need to calculate the length of the entire trench. To do this, add up the distance from the well and the length of the trench around the house. One percent of this amount is equal to the difference between the upper and lower points. If the place of water intake is higher, a drainage pump is needed.

The correct scheme of the drainage system will help to make it yourself

The diagram of the drainage system indicates:

• location of buildings on the site;
• place of water storage;
• main conductor;
• drainage drains.

SNiP drainage system

When designing drainage systems to prevent or eliminate flooding of territories, it is necessary to comply with the requirements of SNiP drainage 2.06.15-85, as well as SNiP 2.06.14-85 and SNiP II-52-74.

1. When designing, preference should be given to systems with gravity drainage. Drainage systems with forced pumping of water require additional justification.
2. Depending on the hydrogeological conditions, horizontal, vertical and combined drainages should be used.
3. The use of a drainage system should be substantiated by studying the water, and for the arid zone - and salt balance of groundwater.
4. The implementation of horizontal drainage by open trench and trenchless methods is determined by economic feasibility. In the case of open horizontal drains at a depth of up to 4 m from the ground, the depth of soil freezing, as well as the possibility of their overgrowth, should be taken into account.
5. Open channels and trenches should be arranged in cases where it is required to drain large areas with one-, two-story buildings of low density. Their use is also possible for protection against flooding of ground transport communications.
6. For fixing the slopes of open drainage ditches and trenches, it is necessary to use concrete or reinforced concrete slabs or rockfill. Drainage holes should be provided in reinforced slopes.
7. In closed drainages, a sand-gravel mixture, expanded clay, slag, polymeric and other materials should be used as a filter and filter backfill.
8. Water should be diverted through trenches or channels by gravity. The construction of catchment tanks with pumping stations is advisable in cases where the relief of the protected area is lower than the water level in the nearest water body, where surface runoff from the protected area should be diverted.
9. Discharge of water into storm sewers is allowed if the throughput of storm sewers is determined taking into account the additional costs of water coming from the drainage system. In this case, the backwater of the drainage system is not allowed.
10. Inspection wells should be arranged at least every 50 m in straight sections of drainage, as well as in places of turns, intersections and changes in slopes of drainage pipes. Inspection wells are allowed to be used as prefabricated from reinforced concrete rings with a sump (at least 0.5 m deep) and concreted bottoms in accordance with GOST 8020–80. Inspection wells on reclamation drainages should be taken according to SNiP II-52-74.
11. As pipes, you should use: ceramic, asbestos-cement, concrete, reinforced concrete or PVC pipes, as well as pipe filters made of porous concrete or porous polymer concrete.
12. Concrete, reinforced concrete, asbestos-cement pipes, as well as porous concrete pipe filters, should only be used in soils and water that are non-aggressive to concrete.

Pipes for the drainage system

Modern industry produces three types of pipes:

• asbestos-cement;
• ceramic;
• polymeric.

The first two types are now rarely used. They are expensive, heavy and short-lived. A variety of plastic pipes fills the market. Single and double-layer, flexible and rigid polymer pipes have many advantages.

For drainage, polymer pipes are most often used.

Do-it-yourself drainage laying

You can install drainage on the site yourself. Pipes and fittings for them will help you choose in any company. To make a drainage system, you will need the following tools and materials:

• asbestos cement or plastic pipes, fittings;
• wrenches, scissors for cutting pipes;
• filter non-woven material;
• ready-made or manufactured manholes;
• storm water inlets (water collection inlet), trays, gutters, gratings, sand traps;
• gravel, sand;
• level;
• bayonet and shovel;
• perforator electric or pneumatic;
• wheelbarrow, buckets;
• iron or wooden tamper;
• individual protection means.

The construction of a deep drainage system is as follows:

1. The beginning of construction occurs with the installation of a collector well, that is, a place where water from the entire system will be collected. It will be simple and rational to use a ready-made container made of durable polymer, although it is also possible to independently manufacture a well from reinforced concrete rings.

   

   A prefabricated drainage well is needed so that excess water accumulates in it, which fills the drainage system to capacity

2. Next, trenches are being prepared for laying drainage pipes. The trench is dug 20–30 cm deeper than the estimated depth of the pipes to be laid, while maintaining a slope of 0.5–0.7%.

   

   The depth of the trench depends on the climatic conditions of the area where the drainage system is installed.

3. If it is impossible to withstand the given slope, then an additional pump for the drainage structure of the site will have to be included in this scheme.
4. In dug trenches, sand cushions 10 cm thick are arranged, which are very carefully compacted.
5. Then the trench is lined with geotextile fabric so that its edges extend beyond the trench.
6. Gravel is poured onto the fabric with a thickness of 10-20 cm, on which the pipes will be laid.

   

   We lay out the geotextile fabric so that it completely covers the entire area of ​​​​the trench and continues to spread along the surface of the earth for another 20-30 centimeters

7. In the places where the pipeline of the drainage structure turns, manholes are installed. Wells are also placed on straight sections every 50 meters.

   

   An inspection drainage plastic well is needed in order to easily check the drainage system, and, if necessary, repair or clean it

8. After the pipes are laid, washed gravel is poured on top of them with a layer of 10 to 20 cm, and all this is wrapped in excess overlapping geotextiles. You can secure the fabric with plastic twine.

   

   A layer of washed gravel is poured onto the pipes and wrapped in excess geotextile

9. Geotextile will act as a filter that does not allow soil particles to pass through and prevent the gravel layer from silting up.
10. Trench backfilling: sand, then soil or gravel, and turf is laid on top. A sand cushion is needed to prevent pipe deformation during the off-season.

    

    Grass turf can be laid on top of the drainage trench or decorated with stones

Video: laying drainage using a perforated pipeline

Drainage system maintenance and cleaning

Maintenance consists of inspecting and cleaning the system. Regular inspection will help to identify minor faults.

The main methods of maintenance of drainage and drainage systems:

1. Drainage cleaning (mechanical method). It can be carried out in different ways. The choice of any of them depends on where exactly the pipes are located, the design features. If the drain lies on the surface, it is best to choose a manual cleaning method. It can be carried out independently, without the involvement of qualified specialists. When it comes to deep drainage, more efficient methods will be required, which may involve excavation. In this case, you will need a pneumatic installation with a cleaning tool and a shaft. The second option involves the use of a special nozzle that will eliminate deposits on the pipe walls and crush large inclusions. The system should be cleaned at least once every 3-4 years.
2. Drainage flushing (hydrodynamic method). As a rule, the cleaning of the system is carried out in sections, using a hose and a pump. Global cleaning of the system should be done once every 10-15 years. To do this, you need to provide access to each drain from both ends. On one side, the pipe goes into the drainage well, and the other end is brought to the surface. To do this, even at the stage of laying the system, outlets are made and with the help of fittings the pipe is lengthened and brought to a certain place. During the flushing process, pumping equipment is connected either to one or the other end of the pipe, and a stream of water is passed under pressure. In this case, a compressor is used, which will supply compressed air to the pipe. The system is cleaned by the action of the flow of a mixture of air and water. The hydrodynamic method is different high efficiency - under such influence, sediments and debris are crushed, after which they are washed out of the drains with clean water.

Video: cleaning the drainage well with a drainage pump

Manholes require regular cleaning. They must always be closed. Pipes are cleaned of debris using a hydraulic method using high pressure. Mechanical cleaning with scrapers or ruffs is unacceptable.

In order for the water drainage system from the site to work as efficiently and as long as possible, it is necessary to pay attention to its maintenance and repair.

The type of drainage system is determined by the characteristics of a particular site. Each owner chooses the most suitable option for him. Drainage laying can be done independently, with the necessary calculations, compliance with sanitary standards and rules and recommendations of specialists. With proper operation, the system can work for more than 50 years.