How to build your own roof. How to make a gable roof: step by step instructions in photos and videos

Can an ordinary home master build the roof of a house with his own hands? At first glance, the task seems rather complicated, but after practicing at my own dacha, I realized that everything is real. I will show you step by step and tell you how to make a roof with your own hands, what components it consists of and what roofs are in general in private houses.

Before making a roof, you need to figure out what structures exist and what their main elements are called. Otherwise, you will not understand anything in the specialized literature, plus it will be difficult for you to talk with sellers in a store or market.

Which design is better to stay

Roof types	Short description
	Shed. The easiest, most affordable and economical option in terms of materials. The problem is that it is not suitable for medium and large houses. Most often, a shed roof is mounted on garages, sheds and other outbuildings.
	gable or tongs. A traditional and rather comfortable design that fits any home with a rectangular or square "box". Now more than half of the owners of private houses and cottages choose a gable roof.
	Shatrovaya. The hipped roof looks like a tetrahedral pyramid, consisting of isosceles triangles with a common vertex. Now it is rare, the main reason lies in the complexity of the beam-pulling system on which this design is based.
	Chetyrekhskatnaya or hip. This design is also based on the beam-tightening system, but is more common than the hipped one. Fans of these types of roofs should not be taken.
	Half hip. In the classic version, the half-hip roof is no longer used. The structure is assembled according to a gable truss scheme using puffs and “fillies” bent upwards.
	Mnogoskatnaya. Of all the existing multi-pitched roof is considered one of the most complex structures. It is installed only on buildings with an "original" layout or houses with several extensions. Only highly qualified professionals can work with such roofs.
	Attic. This type of roof is only slightly inferior in popularity to the gable construction. People are attracted to living attic space. You can build a mansard roof with your own hands, but you need some experience, so it's better to start with a gable roof.

After analyzing the popular types of structures, I realized that for an amateur, the best solution would be to install a gable roof.

General terminology

1. Ribs- all external corners and bends, except for the upper edge, are called ribs;
2. Valva- front plane in a multi-pitched roof;
3. endova- internal angle between adjacent planes on roofs with several slopes;
4. Skate- the upper edge of the roof, on which the slopes converge. There is no ridge on the tent and single-slope structure;
5. dormer window- a small triangular or spherical cut into the roof slope with a window frame inside. It is mounted more for decoration, there is little functional load on the dormer window. Fans of such designs are better off not messing with;
6. Eaves overhang- this is a cut of the lower part of the roof, more precisely, everything that is outside the wall. It is to the edge of the cornice that rain drains are attached;
7. Gable- a vertical sector on the facade of the building located between the slopes of the roof;
8. Gable overhang- lateral inclined cut of the roof plane.

Now let's figure out what the internal structures of the roof are called.

• Mauerlat- a support beam that is mounted on the walls around the perimeter of the box of the house, it can also be called the foundation of the roof. The cross section depends on the weight of the roof and the dimensions of the house, most often it ranges from 100x100 mm to 200x200 mm;
• rafter legs- perhaps the main structural element, the entire roof rests on them. In a gable roof, they are joined at an angle and form a stable isosceles triangle. For medium houses, beams of 50x150 mm are taken, and in large houses 100x150 mm or 100x200 mm;
• Rack- a vertical beam supporting the rafter legs. Can be based on ceiling beams or beds;
• lying down- this is a kind of Mauerlat, only the beds are installed not around the perimeter of the box, but on the walls of a large house. These elements are used only in the "layered" system, which I will mention later;
• puff or crossbar - a horizontal beam that connects two adjacent rafter legs of a gable roof and forms an isosceles triangle with them, thereby increasing the strength of the entire structure;
• Run- mounted in the case when puffs are not installed on all rafter pairs. Runs are needed for additional support for rafter legs and forest savings;
• ridge beam- (it is not indicated on this diagram) is mounted horizontally and installed at the top of the gable roof directly under the connection of the rafter legs or between the rafter legs.

Preparation and installation of a gable structure

At the preparation stage, you make a calculation of the truss system, draw a sketch or drawing, and then purchase the material and prepare the tool.

Roof calculation

The first thing you need to know is the angle of the roof plane. All pitched systems are divided into 3 types:

1. Flat roofs - in them the angle of inclination does not exceed 5º. Almost never found in residential buildings;
2. Roofs with an average slope - here the slope should be from 5º to 30º. Well suited for steppe regions where there are strong winds and little snow;
3. Roofs with a steep slope - these include all slopes with a slope of more than 30º. These roofs are placed in areas with snowy winters, because the steeper the slope, the faster the snow will come off it.

As for the calculations themselves, here it is necessary to divide the height of the roof from the attic floor to the ridge, by half the length of the span along the horizon. If you want to get the value as a percentage, then multiply the result by 100%.

Illustration	The difference between a layered system and a suspended one
	suspension system. The rafters in this system are installed only on the Mauerlat between the bearing walls. If the rafters are supported by racks, then the racks are attached to the ceiling beams.
	Layered system. This system differs from the suspended one in that the racks supporting the rafters are based both on the load-bearing walls and on the walls inside the house.

Tools and materials

From the tool you will need:

• Axe;
• Hand saw wood and metal;
• Chainsaw or an electric saw;
• Hammer;
• Plane;
• Drill;
• screwdriver;
• Open end wrench set.
• Roulette, level, plumb.

It is advisable to knock down at least 1 stand from the boards for working at height, popularly referred to as the "goat".

Materials:

• Beam under rafter legs- the most common section is 50x150 mm;
• Beam under Mauerlat- you can take a solid beam or assemble it from the material under the rafter legs. In both cases, the price is about the same;
• Beam under puffs, runs and racks- I took a bar 50x50 mm, but you can use a rafter beam 50x150 mm;
• Bars for counter battens- standard section 30x40 mm;
• Board for roofing lathing- it is selected for roofing material, the most common option is unedged board;
• metal studs with thread and nuts to them - section 12–14 mm;
• Mounting brackets and plates- sold ready-made with holes for self-tapping screws;
• self-tapping screws
• Nails- in assortment starting from length 50 mm and more;
• Metal staples- are made of reinforcement or rolled products with a thickness of 10 mm or more.

Mauerlat installation

Illustrations	Operating procedure
	Arrangement of a block base. If the house is block (brick, cinder block), then under the Mauerlat you need to pour a concrete reinforced belt over the wall. The height of the belt is 250–300 mm, the width of the belt is equal to the thickness of the wall. You make a wooden formwork, lay a reinforcing cage inside and fill everything with concrete.
	Stud bookmark. Even before pouring concrete, it is necessary to vertically install a number of threaded studs or simply pieces of reinforcement in the center of the future strapping with a step of 0.6–1 m. Mauerlat will then be attached to them. In houses made of aerated concrete, a concrete reinforced belt is poured directly into the U-shaped shaped gas blocks.
	Mauerlat in a wooden house. There is no Mauerlat as such in wooden houses; its function is performed by a beam or a log of the upper trim.
	Aligning the base. Under the Mauerlat, the base should be perfectly flat, if at first you missed this moment, then you will need to level it before laying. The base can be leveled with a cement-sand mortar or glue for gas blocks (glue is used in houses made of aerated concrete).
	We equip waterproofing. The beam should not be in direct contact with concrete, therefore, before laying the Mauerlat, we cover the roofing material on top, preferably in 2 layers.
	Beam installation. We drill holes in the Mauerlat for the studs embedded in the wall, put the beam on the studs and pull it to the wall. Be sure to place a wide washer on top and lock the mount. A solid beam is joined into half a tree, that is, make a cutout as in the photo, join two sectors and drive 5–7 long screws or nails on top. If the Mauerlat is recruited from rafter bars, then they are simply stacked apart and fastened with self-tapping screws.
	Mauerlat. There are cases when the Mauerlat is assembled from pieces laid between the floor beams, but the strength of this design is much lower, plus you will need 2 times more anchors for fastening.
	Wood processing. Absolutely all the wood that goes to the construction of the roof must be treated at least 2 times with antiseptics and flame retardants, otherwise the roof will stand for no more than 10-15 years, then it will be eaten by bugs.
	Wood moisture. It is impossible to make a roof from a freshly sawn forest, in the process of drying under load, beams and boards can lead or they will begin to crack. To reduce costs, you can take freshly cut wood in advance and stack it under a canopy, the wood will dry out during the season, the laying order is shown in the diagram on the left.

Installation of the truss structure

Illustrations	Operating procedure
	Installing the end rafters. The first are 2 triangles at the edges. To keep them from wobbling, I reinforced both triangles with a temporary stand and a diagonal brace. In addition, I also fixed the temporary vertical rack with two boards diagonally.
	Starting mounts for rafters. On the Mauerlat, I installed and secured bars of 50x150 mm with metal corners. The bars are cut at an angle of inclination of the roof. Please note: the corners are attached to 8 self-tapping screws (4x4) and are installed only on one, outer side.
	Fixing rafters from below. As the rafter legs are installed, the base of the beam is clamped with the same stop and fastened with self-tapping screws. Later, in addition to self-tapping screws, I plan to tighten this entire structure with a 12 mm through stud.
	Additional fixation. In principle, such fasteners are enough, but to be sure, I decided to support the rafter leg with triangles from below.
	On the extreme rafter triangles, I put 2 metal corners from the inside. A metal plate is screwed on the outside, and then the pediment will be sheathed on top with a 25 mm board and siding.
	Gain. In addition, 1 m from the Mauerlat to the extreme rafters, I fixed additional support racks.
	ridge beam. From above, I launched a ridge beam, for this I fixed 2 puffs (crossbars) with a gap of 150 mm on the rafters, inserted a beam between them and fixed it with metal corners on self-tapping screws.
	Building. The ridge beam came out longer than the rafter leg, so it had to be increased. I attached 2 linings from the same beam on the sides and pulled it all off on both sides with 12 mm studs.
	Fixing rafters from above. My rafters turned out to be 6 m each, and the entire span was 7 m wide. At the top point, the load is solid, especially in the extreme triangles, so I cut out the lining from a 5 mm thick steel sheet, drilled them and pulled them together with five studs.
	Fastening puffs(crossbars). Intermediate crossbars on the extreme rafter triangles are inserted inward and fixed with metal plates on both sides.
	Hairpins. All other rafter triangles are fastened with two puffs (one puff on each side). On the rafters, the puffs are fixed with two studs and four self-tapping screws.
	We pull the cord. After the final installation of the extreme rafter triangles, a cord is pulled between them. This landmark will help us set all the other rafters in the same plane.
	Planting rafters. In my case, each rafter at the connection point with the Mauerlat was cut, as shown in the photo. But this is not the only option for connecting the rafter leg to the Mauerlat.
	Rafter landing options. Option A - the rafter leg, as it were, wraps around the Mauerlat; Option B - not only the rafter leg is cut, but also the Mauerlat itself; Option B - the rafter leg is cut at an angle, but so that the cutout does not slip, stops are still attached to the beam on both sides; Option D is the same as option C, only in it the rafter leg is not cut off near the mauerlat, but continues for at least another half a meter and you get a ready-made cornice overhang. There are also gashes with a “tooth”, but they need experience and special tools.
	Docking in a wooden house. In a wooden house, the rafters cannot be rigidly attached to the Mauerlat, they will warp when shrinking. For fixing, a floating mount is used here, the photo on the left shows how it works.
	Filly. My cornice overhang turned out to be a continuation of the rafters. If the length of the rafters is not enough, then they rest against the Mauerlat or extended floor beams, and the cornice overhang is increased by the so-called "fillies". Usually these are bars with a section of 50x100 mm, which are attached to the rafters with self-tapping screws. Each such bar should overlap the rafters for at least half a meter and hang over the wall for the same distance.
	truss system. The assembly of the truss system is over, now I will show you how to properly mount the roof sheathing.

Roof installation rules

Illustrations	Operating procedure
	We mount a drip. The first to be mounted on the edge of the gable overhang is a “dropper” - a corner made of a thin metal sheet, which is needed to seal the cut. To do this, I cut niches in the rafters and stuff a 25x150 mm board into them on both sides, so that I get an angle. A dropper is attached to this outer corner with self-tapping screws.
	Barrier for thermal insulation. A barrier is inserted and fixed between the rafters parallel to the wall, it will not allow the internal roofing thermal insulation to slide down.

During the construction of private houses, the roof is most often made gable. There are reasons for this. First, it is reliable. Handles wind and snow loads well. The second - it is compatible with any roofing. The third is relatively inexpensive. The fourth is a simple design that is difficult to spoil. Fifth - it looks attractive. All this, and also the fact that a do-it-yourself gable roof is built without special knowledge, determines its popularity.

Do-it-yourself assembled gable roof ready for installation of roofing

Step-by-step installation of a gable roof

As you saw above, there are a lot of truss systems. Accordingly, when assembling each has its own characteristics, but in general the order is the same. It is necessary to say about the general step: pre-drying and processing of wood. This step is required if you bought fresh lumber, not dried.

The use of raw wood of natural moisture in the construction of the roof will lead to problems: the beams will bend, they will dry out, the geometry will change. All this will lead to the emergence of stress points and at the slightest sign of overload (a lot of snow, strong wind or rain), negative processes will begin. Their elimination is a complex and costly undertaking. Therefore, either buy dry wood (no more than 20%, ideally chamber drying 8-12%), or buy material a couple of months in advance, put it in ventilated piles. After that, treat with the necessary impregnations (from fungal attack and to reduce flammability) and only after that use it in the installation of the truss system.

Timber must be dried in ventilated stacks. To do this, they are laid in short pieces of boards. They are placed a meter from the edges and further through the meter. Spacers must be installed under the bottom

We will talk about the main stages of assembly, about how to make a gable roof with your own hands in this section.

Mauerlat

The assembly of the gable roof truss system begins with the installation of the Mauerlat. It must be set strictly horizontally, therefore, before starting installation, the horizontalness of the wall to which it is attached is carefully checked, if necessary, it is leveled with cement mortar. You can continue work after the solution gains 50% strength.

Depending on the system, this is a beam with a section of 150 * 150 mm or a board with dimensions of 50 * 150 mm. It is attached to the top row of masonry walls. If the house is wooden, its role is played by the upper crown. If the walls are made of light building blocks - foam concrete or aerated concrete and others - their rigidity is not enough to redistribute the load. In this case, a reinforced concrete belt is made over the last row of masonry, into which embedded fasteners are embedded - wire or studs. A bar or board is then mounted on them.

There are several ways to connect walls and Mauerlat:

• In the masonry (in the reinforced concrete belt) a smooth rolled wire of large diameter is fixed (two ends stick up). Holes are then made in the board in the necessary places, into which the wire is threaded. She then twists and bends.
• Studs with a diameter of at least 12 mm are immured in the wall. Under them, holes are made in the Mauerlat, a beam / board is placed) and tightened with nuts with wide washers.
• Aligning the beam or board along the outer or inner edge of the wall, take a drill with a diameter of 12 mm, make holes for the anchor bolts. They (the same diameter of 12 mm) are hammered to the very hat, then tightened with a key.

The distance between the studs (wire) should not be more than 120 cm. Cut-off waterproofing must be laid on the wall (belt) under the Mauerlat. It can be rolled roofing felt or waterproofing in two layers, it can be smeared with bituminous mastic.

Rafter installation

There are more than a dozen types of gable roof truss systems. First of all, you need to choose what yours will look like. Further, in order to make it easier to work, a template is made from thin boards for all cuts, cuts and other similar details. To do this, you may need to assemble the first form on the roof, and then make templates for the finished one.

The assembly order depends on the type of truss system. If the rafters are layered, they are installed gradually, assembling from the elements directly on the roof. In this case, it is convenient if the beams of the ceiling are laid and, if possible, the draft flooring of the attic or attic.

In systems with hanging rafters, a farm is assembled on the ground - a ready-made triangle of puffs and rafter legs with all the required struts, racks. The required number of farms is assembled at once. Then they are lifted to the roof, placed vertically there and attached to the Mauerlat.

On the one hand, this is convenient - it is easier to work on the ground, with a high assembly speed, the accuracy is high: one farm is not much different from the other, which simplifies the procedure. But it can be difficult to raise finished trusses, especially for large buildings. To make this easier, two inclined boards are installed, which at one end rest against the ground, and the other sticks out a little above the wall. Farms are brought closer to this “lift”, one by one they are installed below, ropes are tied and pulled along the boards to the roof. In the absence of a winch or crane, this is the most acceptable method.

The assembly of rafters requires certain knowledge: how and in what order to mount them, how to mark and make cuts. See the video for the assembly of one of the schemes with a headstock.

Assembly order of the truss system

Everything, the do-it-yourself gable roof is assembled and ready for installation of roofing material.

The process of installing the rafters itself raises enough questions, but there are many ways and it is impossible to tell about them all. See one of them in the video. The system is large and went up to the roof in parts, and there it was already assembled into a single structure. It is convenient for large houses.

Features of the installation of the truss system of a wooden house

The difference between wooden houses is that the log house shrinks, and this leads to a change in the geometry of the truss system. If the elements are fixed rigidly, the roof may fall apart. Therefore, the mounts are made floating. There are special sliding fasteners, which in this case attach the rafters to the upper crown and to the girders, if any (see photo).

In order for the rafter to move freely during shrinkage, its long part is fixed strictly parallel to its edge, and the support is placed strictly perpendicular. If necessary, a platform is cut out under it. Mark the mount so that the hook is in the lowest position or near it. They are mounted on special self-tapping screws that come with the kit (ordinary ones do not fit). If the installation is done on a log, so that the rafter leg does not slip along it, a semicircular hole is cut out in the lower part, on which it will rest.

Such fasteners are sold on any construction market, it is called "slippery". How to attach the slippery to the beam, see the video.

Video on assembling and installing a gable roof truss system

It is not easy to build a gable roof with your own hands: there are a lot of subtleties and nuances, there are different ways of fastening, building up. Describing them in words is a thankless job. This is the case when it is better to see. Below is a selection of videos that you might find helpful.

Video report on how a gable roof is made

The story of the owner of the house about the stages of construction. There are interesting technical points that may be useful.

Two types of rafter connection: rigid and sliding

Video about the two most problematic types of connections.

How to determine the angle of the rafters

Full video report on the assembly of the truss system

This movie is just under an hour long, but the entire process is shown from start to finish with plenty of detail. The roof is placed on, but when installed on buildings of a different type (except for wooden houses), there is no difference.

Before you begin to describe the step-by-step construction of the roof, you need to understand its structure as a whole. As a rule, all roofing systems include three separate parts, together, representing a single roof structure:

1. The most important part of the roof can be called its supporting frame, which consists of a rafter system, a batten and a ridge board. For the device of the supporting frame, materials such as reinforced concrete, metal and wood can be used.

However, when building a private house, wood is most often used, which not only has a low price, but is also, in principle, easy for roofing. It is this roof construction option that will be discussed below.

At the same time, we note that for the device of the truss system it is best to use boards 5 cm thick and 10 cm wide, and boards 2.5 cm thick and 10-12 cm wide are suitable for battens.

2. The second part of the roof is an insulating layer, on which the service life of the roof depends.

As practice shows, one of the main problems of the roof is evaporation and the appearance of condensate, which has a significant impact on the supporting structure as a whole and can simply make it unusable. And to prevent this from happening, you should choose the right insulation layer for the roof structure. For this, roofing material is mainly used, as the cheapest material, but it is also very common to find the use of a vapor-waterproofing film or glassine.

3. And the last equally important part is the roofing material, which can also be of different types.

The most common and cheapest roofing material is, of course, asbestos-cement and bituminous slate. The second place in popularity, most likely, is occupied by ondulin, which is very similar to wavy slate and has excellent resistance to negative influences. Metal tiles are less in demand, which, although considered the most practical material, causes some difficulties during installation.

All these parts of the roofing system must be made of sufficient quality, since the reliability of the entire finished structure depends on them. And the roof, no matter what kind it is, must be able to perform the following functions:

• the roof must withstand wind and snow loads;
• must be waterproof;
• the roof structure should not accumulate condensate;
• the roof should provide normal humidity and even temperature in the house;
• there must be good resistance to temperature extremes and chemical influences;
• and lastly, the roof must be constructed so that it can be cleaned of dirt and repaired.

Roof construction steps

As we mentioned earlier, we will consider the most commonly used wooden roof structure in the construction of private houses, we will take the cheapest materials - roofing felt and slate - as the insulating and roofing material.

Note that there are two methods of attaching the lower part of the supporting frame of the roof to the wall of the house: the frame is either attached to the floor beam, or the frame is attached to a special Mauerlat, which is a thick wooden beam measuring 15x15 cm in cross section, laid along the axis of the wall.

Mauerlat helps to evenly distribute loads at the points of support of the roof structure along the entire wall of the building, but most often you can do without it, that is, use the first option, but keep in mind that the strength of the beams themselves and the walls of the house must be so high to withstand all roof.

When describing the stages of construction, the supporting frame of the roof is attached to the floor beam.

Step 1 Rafter device

We begin to build a supporting frame. To do this, first of all, using nails 1.5 cm long, it is necessary to fasten the rafters together at the top point in the form of an end connection. Then, stepping back a little lower from the top point, by about 60-65 cm, you additionally need to fasten the rafters together with a board, you should get a design in the form of the letter “A”.

Next, first of all, the extreme rafters are installed, while their lower ends are laid on the wall of the house with a release of about 20 cm. rafter board, and the other to the ceiling beam.

Then you need to install the rafters in the center of the house and mount the ridge board on top, which will give the rafters a stronger connection with each other. After all this work has been done, you can install the rest of the rafters according to the same principle as they did earlier. It must be remembered that, ideally, the distance between the rafters should be no more than 50 cm.

Step 2 Sheathing

Before proceeding to this step, we note that the lathing system can be of two types, which have their own specific design features and are designed for a certain type of roofing material.

The first and most time-consuming system is considered to be a continuous type system, which, as a rule, consists of two continuous layers, the seams of which intersect in each row. The first layer of such a system is mainly made of edged boards, and waterproof plywood is used as the second layer.

The second most common and simplest type of sheathing is the thinned system, which is commonly used for hard roofing material. And in our case, we will use this particular type of crate. To do this, the boards for the crate are laid at a distance of about 5 cm from each other with a release of approximately 25 cm beyond the extreme rafters. The batten boards are also fastened with nails, that is, there are two nails for each rafter leg.

Step 3 Insulation

To organize insulation over the crate, it is necessary to lay roofing material rolls vertically with an overlap of at least 15 cm. You can fix the roofing material to the crate with medium nails with a wide hat.

At this step, you should also mention warming. If it is assumed that the house will be without an attic or with a residential attic, then it is recommended to lay insulation material between the rafters, which is most often used as foam plastic or mineral wool.

Step 4 Roofing

The last step in the construction of the roof is the laying of the roofing material, in our case 6-wave slate. It is always necessary to start laying slate from the bottom. At the same time, when laying the first three rows, it is imperative to check how even these rows are, otherwise, if one of the slate rows has even the slightest deviation from a flat line, then the entire roof will have to be re-covered.

When laying, it should also be taken into account that the overlap of the second row of slate on the slate of the first row during longitudinal laying should be at least 10-15 cm, and during transverse laying, the overlap of one sheet of slate on another should be at least one “wave”. Fastening of slate sheets is carried out with the help of special slate nails.

Conclusion

As you can see, the construction of the roof consists of just a few simple steps, while the proposed version of the roof system is good for reasons such as:

1. The construction of such a roof does not require a huge amount of building materials, and, consequently, high material costs;
2. The installation of the roof, described above, is so simple that you can easily and quickly do it yourself, and, therefore, you can save on hiring a team of builders.
3. And lastly, building a roof with your own hands, you will always be sure that all the work has been done with high quality and the roof will not let you down in inclement weather.

Roof installation is a complex multi-stage process. In order to independently assemble and install the truss system, it is necessary to carefully study the methods of connecting the elements, calculate the length of the rafters and the slope angle, and select the appropriate materials. If you do not have the necessary experience, you should not take on complex designs. The best option for a small residential building is a do-it-yourself gable roof.

A standard roof of this type consists of the following elements:

Mauerlat is a beam laid on top of the walls along the perimeter of the building. It is fixed with threaded steel rods immured into the wall or anchor bolts. The beam must be made of coniferous wood and have a square section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. Mauerlat takes on the load from the rafters and transfers it to the outer walls.

rafter legs- these are long boards with a section of 50x150 mm or 100x150 mm. They are attached to each other at an angle and give the roof a triangular shape. The design of their two rafter legs is called a truss. The number of farms depends on the length of the house and the type of roofing. The minimum distance between them is 60 cm, the maximum is 120 cm. When calculating the pitch of the rafter legs, one should take into account not only the weight of the coating, but also the wind load, as well as the amount of snow in the winter.

It is located at the highest point of the roof and most often represents a longitudinal beam connecting both slopes. From below, the timber is supported by vertical racks, and the ends of the rafters are attached to the sides. Sometimes the ridge consists of two boards, which are nailed to the top of the rafters on both sides and connected at a certain angle.

Racks - vertical bars with a section of 100x100 mm, located inside each farm and serving to transfer the load from the ridge run to the load-bearing walls inside the house.

The struts are made from timber scraps and set at an angle between the uprights and the rafters. The side faces of the truss are strengthened with struts, the bearing capacity of the structure is increased.

Puff - a beam connecting the lower parts of the rafters, the base of the truss triangle. Together with struts, such a beam serves to strengthen the truss, increases its resistance to loads.

Lying is a long beam with a section of 100x100 mm, laid along the central load-bearing wall, on which vertical racks rest. Lying is used when installing layered rafters, when the run between the outer walls is more than 10 m.

The crate is a board or timber stuffed on the rafters. The crate is solid and with gaps, depending on the type of roof. It is always attached perpendicular to the direction of the rafters, most often horizontally.

If there is no more than 10 m between the outer walls and there is no load-bearing wall in the middle, arrange hanging rafter system. With such a system, the upper ends of adjacent rafters are sawn at an angle and connected to each other with nails, excluding the installation of racks and ridge timber. The lower ends of the rafter legs rest on the outer walls. Due to the lack of racks, the attic space can be used to equip the attic. Very often, floor beams perform the function of puffs. To strengthen the structure, it is recommended to install the upper puff at a distance of 50 cm from the ridge.

In the presence of a central supporting wall, the arrangement is more justified layered truss system. A bed is laid on the wall, support posts are attached to it, and a ridge beam is nailed to the posts. This installation method is quite economical and easier to perform. If the ceilings in the interior are designed at different levels, the racks are replaced with a brick wall dividing the attic into two halves.

The installation process of the roof includes several stages: attaching the Mauerlat to the walls, assembling the truss trusses, installing the rafters on the floors, installing the ridge, and attaching the batten. All wooden elements before assembly are carefully treated with any antiseptic composition and dried in the air.

For work you will need:

• timber 100x10 mm and 150x150 mm;
• boards 50x150 mm;
• boards 30 mm thick for lathing;
• ruberoid;
• metal studs;
• jigsaw and hacksaw;
• hammer;
• nails and screws;
• square and building level.

in wooden houses Mauerlat functions are performed by logs of the last row, which greatly simplifies the workflow. To install the rafters, it is enough to cut grooves of the appropriate size on the inside of the logs.

in brick houses or buildings from blocks, the installation of the Mauerlat is as follows:

Mauerlat bars should form a regular rectangle and be in the same horizontal plane. This will facilitate further installation of the roof and provide the structure with the necessary stability. In conclusion, markings are made on the bars for the rafters and grooves are cut along the thickness of the bar.

When choosing a hanging truss system, it is necessary to assemble the trusses on the ground, and then install them above the floors. First you need to draw up a drawing and calculate the length of the rafter legs and the angle of their connection. Typically, the roof slope is 35-40 degrees, but in open, heavily ventilated areas, it is reduced to 15-20 degrees. To find out at what angle to connect the rafters, you should multiply the angle of the roof by 2.

Knowing the length of the run between the outer walls and the angle of connection of the rafters, you can calculate the length of the rafter legs. Most often, it is 4-6 m, taking into account the cornice overhang 50-60 cm wide.

The upper ends of the rafters can be fastened in several ways: overlap, butt and "in the paw", that is, with cut grooves. For fixing use metal pads or bolts. Next, the lower and upper puffs are mounted, and then the finished trusses are lifted up and installed above the ceilings.

The extreme trusses are attached first: with the help of a plumb line, the rafters are set vertically, the length of the overhang is adjusted and attached to the Mauerlat with bolts or steel plates. So that during the installation process the farm does not move, it is strengthened with temporary jibs from a bar. After installing the extreme rafters, the rest are exposed, keeping the same distance between them. When all the trusses are fixed, they take a board with a section of 50x150 mm, the length of which is 20-30 cm longer than the length of the eaves, and nail it along the upper edge of the slope. Do the same on the other side of the roof.

The first option: a rectangular groove is cut out on the rafter leg at the point of contact with the Mauerlat by 1/3 of the beam width. Stepping back from the top of the box 15 cm, a steel crutch is driven into the wall. The rafter is leveled, the grooves are aligned, then a wire clamp is thrown on top and the beam is pulled close to the wall. The ends of the wire are securely fixed on the crutch. The lower edges of the rafters are carefully cut with a circular saw, leaving an overhang of 50 cm.

The second option: the upper rows of walls are laid out with a stepped brick cornice, and the Mauerlat is placed flush with the inner surface of the wall and a groove is cut in it for the rafter. The edge of the rafter leg is cut at the level of the upper corner of the eaves. This method is simpler than the others, but the overhang is too narrow.

The third option: ceiling beams are extended beyond the edge of the outer wall by 40-50 cm, and roof trusses are installed on the beams. The ends of the rafter legs are cut at an angle and rest against the beams, fixing with metal plates and bolts. This method allows you to slightly increase the width of the attic.

The device of layered rafters

1 shows the cutting of the struts of the rafters into a bed laid on intermediate supports, and in Fig. 2 - supporting the rafter leg on the Mauerlat

The procedure for installing a layered truss system:

When the main elements are fixed, the surface of the rafters is treated with flame retardants. Now you can start making the crate.

A beam of 50x50 mm is suitable for the crate, as well as boards with a thickness of 3-4 cm and a width of 12 cm or more. Waterproofing material is usually laid under the crate to protect the truss system from getting wet. The waterproofing film is laid in horizontal stripes from the eaves to the roof ridge. The material spreads with an overlap of 10-15 cm, after which the joints are fastened with adhesive tape. The bottom edges of the film must completely cover the ends of the rafters.

It is necessary to leave a ventilation gap between the boards and the film, so first wooden slats 3-4 cm thick are stuffed onto the film, placing them along the rafters.

The next stage is the sheathing of the truss system with boards; they are stuffed perpendicular to the rails, starting from the roof eaves. The step of the lathing is affected not only by the type of roofing, but also by the angle of inclination of the slopes: the larger the angle, the greater the distance between the boards.

After the installation of the battens is completed, they begin to sheath the gables and overhangs. You can close the gables with boards, plastic panels, clapboard, waterproof plywood or corrugated board - it all depends on financial capabilities and personal preferences. Sheathing is attached to the side of the rafters, nails or self-tapping screws are used as fasteners. Overhangs are also hemmed with various materials - from wood to siding.

Video - Do-it-yourself gable roof

The final stage of the construction of any building is the construction of the roof. This design refers to important parts of the structure, which should reliably protect it from the penetration of precipitation, wind and cold. The methods of mounting individual roof elements primarily depend on the type of construction chosen for the house.

One of the most common design options is a gable broken mansard roof.

Different types of roofs differ in their design features and shapes. When arranging the roof, pitched roofing options (single-pitched, multi-pitched) are usually used.

The simplest for installation are single-pitched, they are characterized by low labor intensity and high installation speed, due to the too low under-roof space it is not possible to equip a full-fledged attic (mansard). Such a roof is installed on a building, the two walls of which have different heights. A shed roof is rarely equipped on residential buildings (usually in climatic zones where strong winds predominate). Most often they are installed in garages and all kinds of outbuildings.

According to the features of the arrangement, multi-pitched roofs are among the most complex types of roofs. They consist of a large number of structural elements. The installation of the truss system of such roofs should be carried out with particular care. Pitched roofs (according to their design features) are divided into:

• attic, when a room is arranged under the roof, where the owner can store various things or convert it into a living room;
• non-attic, when the load-bearing components of the roof perform the functions of overlapping the upper floor.

With this design, there is no usable space under the roof

Before you build the roof of the house, you need to choose a certain type of multi-pitched structure:

• gable are the most common type, such a roof consists of two surfaces connected at the top, the edges form two gables, the slopes can be of different lengths, then the gables are transformed into irregular triangles, such roofs can be covered with any roofing material, they are reliable, durable and easy to install;
• four-slope formed by four triangles (often of different shapes), connected by vertices at a common point;
• hip, in which two slopes are trapezoidal, and the other two are triangular, they have good resistance to wind loads, therefore they are often settled in the south;
• half hip, this subtype is formed so that the lengths of the side planes are shorter than the lengths of the main ones, usually such structures are equipped in regions with difficult climatic conditions;
• broken lines they are a kind of gable, formed from four planes connecting at an obtuse angle;

The main types of construction of the truss system

• multi-forceps differ in a rather complex design, such roofs are installed on elite-class houses, which have an interesting geometric configuration;
• mansard they are equipped when the attic is planned to be converted into a living space, this type has a broken profile and is quite difficult to install, it is often a type of multi-gable, gable roofs;
• tented form four triangular slopes, the tops of which are connected together.

roofing material

Before you make the roof of the house, you should decide on the type of roofing material. The load acting on the frame depends on its weight. This affects which truss system will be built. It is necessary to provide for the features of fastening individual elements of the roof. It is necessary to take into account the use of additional structures, the use of which strengthens the truss system.

Pitched roofs are usually covered with:

• sheet materials (corrugated board, metal tiles, copper, steel, aluminum seam roofing), bitumen-containing (ondulin);
• piece materials (classic tiles, slate, bituminous tiles).

Modern "soft" roof

Ceramic tiles are the heaviest. If this type of roofing is chosen, then the truss system must be calculated taking into account such a significant load.

To equip the truss system, coniferous wood should be purchased (moisture content 20%, without knots, blue and other defects). Before starting the installation of the roof, it is also necessary to purchase the following materials:

• roofing;
• vapor barrier;
• waterproofing film;
• insulation;
• iron staples;
• screws, screws, nails.

The calculation of the required material must be made according to the drawing of the roof, on which the connecting nodes of the truss system, as well as reinforcing elements, must be placed.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer roof design and repair services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

The main elements of the roof

• Mauerlat;
• truss system;
• roofing cake.

For mounting the Mauerlat, a wooden beam (square or rectangular section) is used. It serves as the basis of the entire structure and is the place where the roof is attached to the building. Mauerlat allows you to evenly distribute the load on the walls of the building.

Mauerlat "collects" the load from the rafters and distributes it over the surface of the wall

The cross section of the beam is calculated based on the complexity of the roof and the weight of the frame. When mounting the Mauerlat around the entire perimeter of the building, its elements are connected to each other according to the cutting principle. Additional reliability is provided by nails or bolted connections.

The rafter system is installed on the Mauerlat and serves as the basis for laying the roofing pie. Be sure to provide for the angle of the roof slope. A roof with a large slope is faster freed from water and snow. Therefore, for the arrangement of roofs with a slope of 50º, rafters of a smaller section are used than for more gentle roofs. This information must be reflected in the project documentation.

If the roof is erected on a building of small width, then A-shaped structures are mounted (a ridge run is not needed). The horizontal jumper (crossbar) provides the required rigidity, and also reduces the load on the spacer. The upper fastening of the rafter legs is reinforced with a wooden or metal lining.

The bottom of the rafters can rest against the Mauerlat with a cut end (design without overhang). If the project provides for an overhang, then a recess is made at the bottom of the rafter. The upper part of the cutout rests on the Mauerlat.

The design of rafters without an overhang is used very rarely.

When arranging mansard roofs, layered truss systems are usually installed, in which the rafter legs are equipped with an additional point of support. For this, support posts are used, which are connected by girders. Additional structural rigidity is provided by struts and other elements.

After the installation of the rafter system, the roofing pie is equipped. First, waterproofing is laid, for which a special membrane is used. It must be fixed on the rafters. In order not to worsen the ventilation of the roof, the overlap of the membrane over the ridge should be avoided. On top of the waterproofing, bars (counter-lattice) are attached to the rafters. This ensures the required air gap.

The crate is attached to the counter-crate. Depending on the type of roofing, it is made of:

• boards;
• bars;
• plate materials (when a continuous crate is required).

Roofing is attached to the crate. It takes on the entire load and redirects it to the design of the truss system.

If the roof is not “broken”, then the attic will not occupy the entire usable area of ​​​​the attic

Roof erection procedure

The construction process includes the following steps:

• mauerlat laying;
• arrangement of the truss system;
• construction of a roofing pie.

Before erecting a roof, you should order a project for the roof of the house. After the construction of the walls of the building is completed, waterproofing (roofing, roofing felt) should be laid on top of them (under the Mauerlat). When arranging a gable (single-pitched) roof, it is laid on two walls, on which the rafter legs rest. When a hipped roof is being built, the Mauerlat is installed around the entire perimeter of the building. Waterproofing is also laid on all walls.

After that, the floor beams should be installed. The ends of the beams should protrude to the planned width of the eaves (usually within 0.4-0.5 m). First, the extreme beams are laid, then the remaining ones are set up (the step depends on the step of the rafters, usually 0.6 m). The beams are fixed on the Mauerlat with nails or self-tapping screws. Boards are laid on top (not fixed).

Assembled the "skeleton" of the roof in a frame house

Further construction work includes the installation of racks, for which a 50x150 board is used. They are fixed using spacers, and their height depends on the design of a particular roof. First, the extreme racks are installed, after which the rest are exposed. A ridge beam is attached to them with self-tapping screws.

The frame of the pediment is being equipped, sheathed with an inch board. Then the cornice is completely mounted. The ends of the overlap are closed with a frontal board, and 2 belts of boards are attached from below. Gutter holders should be installed.

A waterproofing membrane is attached to the rafters. A counter-lattice is made from above, and then a crate is arranged. Roofing material is laid on it.

The roof is insulated from the inside with modern heat insulators. More often, mineral wool is used for this. More expensive (sheet, sprayed polymeric heaters) are used less frequently.

Insulation of the roof of a house with an attic

The heat insulator is closed with a vapor barrier (special membrane). The material protects the insulation and the entire wooden structure from moisture.

Video description

Visually and step by step the entire process of installing the roof and roofing in the following video:

Possible mistakes

Before you build a roof at home, you should consider the following nuances:

• it is important to correctly determine the dimensions of the spans of the floor, if the building has a sufficiently large width, then it is necessary to choose a rafter leg of the maximum section;
• in order to prevent deflection of the building legs when using rafters of a small section, the farm must be equipped with additional support posts and other elements;
• when calculating the roof, wind loads should be taken into account; for this, the rafter legs must be fixed with brackets;
• the density of the lathing (sparse, solid) depends on the type of roofing.

Roof variety

A non-specialist can easily confuse a hip roof with a hipped roof.

Complicated version of a gable roof

Sloping roof for a house with an attic

Conical roof on the rounded part of the house

A combination of old and new - a gable roof on a modern house

The complex multi-tiered roof looks very impressive

Video description

A few more beautiful and practical types of roofs in the following video:

Conclusion

A well-made roof is a guarantee of a warm and dry home. Therefore, it is important to strictly observe all stages of the technology for erecting a truss system and laying a roofing pie. To avoid the need to redo the entire structure over time, trust the construction to professionals.