Installation of wooden floors without a basement. How to make a floor in a house from foam blocks

In the age of industrialization, when our lives were filled with artificial polymer materials, many dream of natural simplicity and harmony. That is why the arrangement of the floor in a private house is usually immediately associated with a wooden floor. Indeed, in the interior country house he looks very nice.

Advantages of wooden floors in a country house

They are environmentally friendly and do not emit harmful fumes during operation.
Easy to give in fine finish- the tree allows you to get different, interesting from the standpoint of interior design, solutions.
Durable, easy to repair without the use of special tools.
The wooden floor is a source of coziness and comfort.

The structure of the floors in a country house

The design of the floor is quite complex, and they are arranged according to the same principle as the roof. What we see is only a finishing coating, under which a multi-layered "stuffing" is hidden. For each specific case, the installation of floors in country house depends on the characteristics of the supporting base (soil or floor), the purpose of the room and a number of other conditions. Although in their structure it is possible to distinguish common components.

Underlayment. Functionally perceives the operational load created by the coating, and transfers it to the walls or distributes it evenly over the base. For floors on the ground, its dense preparation is carried out; when installing on the floor, this role is played by the floor slab.

Screed. Aligns the underlying layer and, if necessary, gives the required slope, covers communications.

Interlayer. Bonds screed and coating.

Insulating layers. Hydro, sound or heat insulating are located, depending on the functions, under or above the screed.

What should be the gender

A competent floor device in a private house should provide him with:

strength, good resistance to impact loads and abrasion;
high thermal insulation properties if it is supposed to be used all year round;
good soundproofing characteristics;
waterproof and waterproof for wet areas, etc.

Ground floor wood flooring

The bearing base under the floor of the first floor can serve as:

priming;
beams or floor slabs.

Foundation primer

Doesn't require a lot of money. Usually it is performed in lags. The main issue that requires a priority solution is to ensure the dryness of the base. It should be located 12–15 cm higher than the blind area. To do this, a layer of compacted soil is laid in place of the cut sod, into which crushed stone or gravel is then compacted, a layer of 4–5 cm. The preparation of the base is continued by laying the underlying layer of slag, crushed brick or stone. All layers are then compacted and leveled.

After preparing the base, in increments of 0.8–1.0 m, brick columns are installed on it (height 2-3 pieces). On top of them, insulation of antiseptic materials is laid, say, from roofing material, and on top of it, respectively, logs. Planed boards are fixed to the joists using nails or self-tapping screws.

Ground floors can be insulated if necessary. Traditionally, polystyrene foam is used for thermal insulation or mineral wool. The insulation layer is then covered with a reinforced concrete screed. The floor is completed on the ground by laying the floor covering on the screed.

As you know, in spring, groundwater rises quite high, therefore, when laying floors on the ground, you need to take into account their level.

I would like to warn against this type of flooring for those who are going to live in the house only in the summer, since it is possible that the soil under the floors will freeze and deform in winter. This is perhaps the only exception - nothing else interferes with such a floor arrangement.

Base - overlay

When overlapping, made of concrete slabs, for flooring use typical schemes used for urban apartments. In the case of beam ceilings, the technology will depend on the way the beams are supported: in walls or on supporting pillars.

Cover device

In the beam ceiling, the bearing base consists of beams located at a certain step. In suburban construction, wooden ones are more common.

However, it should be noted that there are certain limitations for them:

the width of the span for interfloor ceilings should not be more than 5 m;
for attic - no more than 6 m.

The material for them is often wooden beams conifers. The rough floor will be the flooring made on their upper side. The roof structure includes:

beams,
reel,
insulation.

Beams are processed before installation antiseptics. Their beveled ends lead into a special nest,
prepared even during the construction of walls, not bringing it to the outer 2-3 cm. When supporting beams in a wall of stone or concrete, their ends are wrapped with a double layer of roofing material.

Roll forward On the side faces of each beam, bars with a square section of 4x4 or 5x5 are nailed, they are called cranial. It is on them that the reel is fastened from shields assembled from transverse or longitudinal boards, pressing the plates tightly against each other. Fasteners are made with self-tapping screws.

Insulation. Between the beams, first lay, bending on them by 5 cm, a layer of glassine, roofing felt or vapor barrier film, then thermal insulation. For interfloor overlapping, the height of the heat-insulating layer must reach at least 10 cm, for attic floor- 20–25 cm.

The device of "floating" floors

The floors got this name because the beams in this case are not incorporated into the structure of the building, that is, they are not actually connected to the walls.
Work begins with the laying of support pillars.

Soil is removed from the underground to a depth of about 0.5 m. The excavated space is filled with a building layer: gravel, sand or crushed stone. The layer is rammed, carefully pouring water several times. Its upper level should be 20 cm above the ground level.
Along the perimeter of the base obtained, support pillars made of concrete or brick are installed, then also supports inside the house in increments of 0.7–1.0 m.
Moisture-proofing material is laid on the poles and beams are installed on top of it. The tightness of the fit to the posts is regulated using wooden wedges and gaskets.

Ground floors #8212 General view

Ground floor plans

In houses without a basement, flooring #8212 is a popular solution for ground floor rooms.. both residential and household. Simple design, the use of modern materials, the placement of a heating circuit in the floor (warm floor), make such floors comfortable and attractively priced.

Three basic schemes for laying floors on the ground

Fig.1. Monolithic overlap

on the ground (suspended floor)

After the concrete hardens, the entire load is transferred to the walls. In this version, monolithic reinforced concrete slab floor plays the role of a floor slab and should be calculated on normative load floors, have appropriate strength and reinforcement.

The soil is actually used here only as a temporary formwork when installing iron concrete slab overlap. This floor is often referred to as #171 suspended floor on ground #187 .

A suspended floor on the ground has to be done if there is a high risk of shrinkage of the soil under the floor. For example, when building a house on peat bogs or with a bulk soil height of more than 600 mm. The thicker the backfill layer, the higher the risk of significant subsidence of the fill soil over time.

Second option #8212 is the floor over foundation #8212 slab when reinforced concrete monolithic slab, poured onto the ground over the entire area of the building, serves as a support for the walls and the base for the floor, Fig.2.

Floor installation in a private house

The floor is an integral part of any room, whether private house(apartment) or public building.

Undoubtedly, one of the main parts that determine the entire interior of the room as a whole and ensure comfortable living and durability of the building.

This part of the premises is quite expensive (up to 30% of total costs) and laborious in design, it is the top layer of the floor that divides the building into zones.

For a one-story private house, such a division is as follows: basement, residential part, attic.

The base is the most wearing part, since the loads on it are the most constant.

Therefore, it lends itself to repair most often, although high-quality laying of the base and the use of high-quality materials make it possible to forget about repairs for a long time.

The material for the base should be selected taking into account the purpose of operation, the microclimate in the room, and its choice should be taken seriously: for example, you can’t lay parquet in a toilet or bathroom, and it’s better not to use laminate flooring in the kitchen or in the hallway.

Types of bases for a private house

In a private house, they can be of two types:

Wooden. The base is logs (beams) laid with a waterproofing litter (if we are talking about the foundation in the basement or living quarters in a house without a basement) or without it (if we are talking about a field between living rooms, living quarters and a basement or attic). Such bases are warm and do not require significant labor costs for installation.
Concrete. The basis for concrete bases is a prepared base in the form of a sand cushion. Compared to a wooden base, concrete floors involve wet work in several stages, which makes their production and installation voluminous and rather long.

Wooden floors can be mounted in the form of:

simple single plank base
double plank base (warmer).

Features of installing a plank wooden floor

A single plank base is mounted in compliance with the following recommendations:

The boards are laid on logs laid on the beams or on the support beams themselves (if the beams are embedded in the walls, then laying the logs on them is mandatory requirement).
If the support pillars serve as the basis for laying, then the beams are initially laid in compliance with established requirements: with a distance between supports of 80 cm, the beams must be laid 1x1 m, with a distance of 1 meter or more - 1.2x1.2 m ..
If there are no complaints about the beam system, then you can lay the floor on the beams themselves. If, nevertheless, the system of beams does not completely suit you, then it is better to additionally lay a grid of logs, leveling and securing with nails.
The logs used for laying the base can have a section of 50x50 or 60x60 mm.

Mounting a plank base is quite simple by attaching the boards you use with long self-tapping screws or nails to the logs or support bars.

If the laid plank base is planned to be finished, then we scrape it and varnish it (preferably in two layers).

If the plank base is used as a draft, then we lay the coating of your choice on it (it is recommended to use linoleum).

Laying a single plank base will not bring heat into your home, but will only reduce your costs.

Therefore, it is better to lay a double plank floor, which includes a rough base of unedged board and a finished floor of tongue and groove board.

For laying the rough base, we use boards pre-treated with an antiseptic (board thickness up to 45 mm), which are tightly laid on cranial bars stuffed on beams.

Next, we cover the rough base with a heat-insulating layer of at least 30 mm (use sawdust and clay or expanded clay) and lay the final base (use only coniferous boards for it), nailing it.

If you plan to lay an additional coating on a finished base, then it must be scraped off, after deepening the nail heads with a metal finisher and a hammer.

After that, you can lay any coating.

In order to ensure ventilation, it is necessary to make holes in the corners of the room (no more than 60 mm in diameter).

We suggest you watch a useful video on how the floors are arranged in private homes.

As mentioned earlier, a wooden base in a basement or living space without a basement is mounted on logs laid on a waterproofing pad.

The material for such a pillow can be sandstone, gravel or simple soil.

In this case, the logs are not laid on the pillow itself, but on brick columns (at least 2 bricks high), which are located over the entire floor area so that the step between the bars laid on them is 40-70 cm.

If the wooden base is laid on the floors, for example, between the basement or attic and the living quarters, then no waterproofing is needed in this case.

Logs are fixed through the way with the help of anchors or self-tapping screws.

When laying a wooden floor, it should be borne in mind that the wood used must first be impregnated to prevent it from being affected by various rodents, microorganisms and insects.

Before laying the concrete base, it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing on the previously compacted sand cushion, and then #8212 thermal insulation layer.

Many people ask themselves the question: how to cut a laminate? Here it is shown what and how you can cut it without much effort. Try!

In this article, you will learn how to lay a cork underlayment under a laminate. Good luck with your repair!

Only with such preliminary preparation you can start laying the concrete base.

The layer of laid concrete must be at least 5 cm and must correspond in level to the level of the foundation of the house at its highest point.

A concrete slab can still serve as the basis for pouring a concrete screed.

If the slab is flat, then you can safely save on waterproofing - you don’t need to lay it, and, having laid only thermal insulation, cover it with a fine cement-sand screed.

This will be enough.

Finished flooring should be laid on the screed only after it has dried and bonded.

By the way, if the flooring is a laminate, then it is necessary to first lay the concrete with a special bedding, and if it is parquet, then plywood must be laid under it.

If you want to lay a tile, then in addition to tile adhesive you don't need anything else.

How to insulate the floor in a private house?

It is better to start warming floors in a private house from the basement. It is necessary to isolate the walls from the cold soil from the outside with external thermal insulation. Indeed, according to statistics, the greatest heat loss occurs due to freezing of the soil to a great depth.

Natural beauty wooden house

The plinth is insulated from the outside with extruded polystyrene foam. This material has low thermal conductivity and good water resistance. It is best to insulate the walls from the outside along the entire height, up to the base of the foundation. The calculation of the thickness of the heat insulator is carried out taking into account the type of soil, the depth of soil freezing and the characteristics of the site. After installation, the underground part of the walls is again covered with earth. and the basement of the basement walls can be decorated with any decorative coating, thus the heat insulator will be hidden.

What to do with the floor above the basement?

Before performing work, you need to make sure that the underground space is dry. For natural ventilation air is made a vent leading to the basement. The soil must be carefully compacted and covered with sand by 20 cm.

Filling the underground space with insulation

Instructions for action:

Alternative option

OSB boards

When. if it is not planned to disassemble the floor, then it is possible to insulate the basement from the basement.

wooden blocks

wooden slats

How to insulate the floor if the house is on the ground?

The floor on the ground is a concrete or reinforced concrete slab located at the base of the house. It can be connected to the walls with a screed. or not connected.

Laying the floor on the ground will save your time and effort, but there are some limitations. For example, slabs should not be placed on loose or easily subsiding soils. In addition, laying can not be done where groundwater passes nearby.

Floor insulation with mineral wool

Concrete does not provide protection from cold air. Moreover, the concrete slabs themselves are cold. It is for this reason that the floor, if it is located on the ground, is always insulated.

We tamp, level the ground. We spread a layer of crushed stone / expanded clay (layer thickness - 10 cm). This protects the house from cold and moisture coming from below. Pour coarse sand over the expanded clay and level the layer. We make a concrete screed or lay down a concrete slab. We lay a waterproofing layer. We spread the heater. We do floor screed and flooring. In the case of a warm water floor, water pipes must be laid before the finishing screed.

How thick should the insulation layer be? It all depends on the thickness of the ceiling - if the room is high, then the thermal insulation can be laid in several layers. And in the case of a low ceiling, the maximum that you can afford is one layer of heat insulator.

Floor insulation

Floor insulation between floors is necessary only in cases where there should be different temperature. And the choice of material for insulation depends on the method of installing the floor - on logs or slabs. The attic also needs to be insulated, if it is used.

Floor insulation in a country house

We lay a vapor barrier on the plates between the lags. The panels must be laid so that they overlap each other by 10 cm or more. It is necessary to install ceilings above the vapor barrier layer, on slabs or between lags. The heat insulator must be laid close, without gaps and cracks. If several layers are installed - lay the plates with overlapping seams.

We put waterproofing on the heat insulator and install the floor. In the case of a wooden floor and a log, we make an air cushion, and in the case of installation on slabs, without it.

If attic space- non-residential, used for storage, has ventilation (natural), then you need to put a structure over the insulation to protect it from the wind.

Scheme of floor insulation in wooden house

Beams from interfloor ceilings are also a natural support for the ceiling and lags for the floor of the room above the first. How to carry out thermal insulation between them and how to insulate them?

For thermal insulation, do the following:

We install a heat insulator between the beams from the side of the upper floor. We do this in several layers. From above we cover everything with a waterproofing layer. We fill the logs on the beams and arrange the floor here (first rough, then finish). We go down to the lower floor and deal with vapor barrier (install on a wooden floor). The vapor barrier must be closed with drywall or hemmed boards.

Floor insulation with foam

How can I insulate the floor in a private house?

There are several options:

Styrofoam ordinary. You need to choose the brand of plates depending on the load on the floors. Plates PSB-S-35 will help to insulate the living space. The edges of the plates can be either milled or ordinary. In order to overlap the plates to each other, use expanded polystyrene with milled edges. This will help to avoid gaps and gaps between the plates, which can nullify the effectiveness of any insulation.

There are two styling options - one thick layer or two thin ones.

Expanded clay insulation

Expanded polystyrene extruded. The only but important difference is the high density and well-closed cells. This structure allows it to withstand huge loads. Therefore, it is suitable for warming not only a residential building, but also a garage. However, something else emerges from the high density of the plates. These slabs can be laid directly on a layer of gravel or expanded clay, and there is no need to make a concrete base. What allows you to use extruded polystyrene foam on gravel? This is a low water absorption coefficient. as well as thermal conductivity. The thickness of the thermal insulation in this case can be equal to 8 - 9 cm.

Polyurethane foam. Chips and rigid slabs of polyurethane foam material can be used to insulate the floor on the ground. However, they must be laid on a waterproofing pad - the water absorption coefficient of the plates is generally 0.7 - 2.9 percent.

Modern materials coated on both sides with aluminum or fiberglass. This reduces vapor permeability and increases thermal insulation. The edges of the plates can be found both straight and milled. They are used to lay the insulation overlapping each other.

Mineral wool. Fibrous, soft wool is often used for flooring above basements or for insulation between floors in a house. Under and above the wool there are layers that need to be insulated with vapor and waterproofing.

Floor insulation on logs

Expanded clay. This light and porous material is made from burnt clay. Expanded clay performs a number of functions - levels the floor, protects against moisture and heat loss. If you get a thick layer of expanded clay - you can not think about waterproofing. Expanded clay is used to insulate the floor on the ground. To simplify subsequent work, pour the compacted layer of your expanded clay with a sand-cement mixture. Such liquid fillings can be performed on each layer of expanded clay.

The most common version of the foundation for small private houses, when a non-buried strip foundation is made (there is no basement), and the base of the floor is created directly on the existing soil. This is done where there is no threat of high standing. ground water, and the relief of the site is homogeneous, lying approximately at the same level of the horizon. If the soil is located under a large slope, soil moisture during the year is excessive, it makes sense to make the base of the floor of the first floor of the house at a distance from the ground, leaving a ventilated space between them. Features of the device of both floor options in private homes will be considered in this article.

Features of the foundation device

The device of the floor and foundation of the house on the ground

The advantage of floors that rest directly on the underlying soil layers is that they do not carry an additional load on the foundation of a private house. The floors of the first floor, which do not come into contact with the soil, provide for the device of a kind of floor slab, which is based on the foundation. Therefore, the second option requires taking these features into account when designing and calculating the required width of the base sole.

If the base of the floor of the first floor is a reinforced concrete slab, be sure to take care of the waterproofing of the foundation itself and the place of its contact with the overlapping structure, especially if this option is chosen due to the high soil moisture. A slab that is not insulated with a hydrobarrier will pull moisture from the foundation, which will lead to its premature destruction and loss of strength, as well as the penetration of dampness into the house. In addition, care should be taken to ventilate the space between the ceiling and the soil, thereby reducing the level of humidity here.

The device of the floor of the first floor on the ground

This method of arranging floors in a private house where there is no basement is considered the simplest in terms of execution and inexpensive in terms of material costs. There are two main options that apply in this case:

installation of a concrete floor base (screed);
installation of wooden floors on logs.

Each of the presented options has its own characteristics, both in the sense of the complex necessary work as well as in terms of the end result. The choice often depends on what building material is the main one in the construction of the house itself. If the walls are made of logs or timber, a wooden floor will be more organic. In a stone or brick building better fit coupler. But this is not an absolute pattern, so there may be other combinations.

Concrete insulated screed

Scheme of the device of insulated concrete screed on the ground

The base of concrete, which is poured on the ground, has long been used in all kinds of utility and technical buildings, such as garages, sheds, warehouses. On the first floors of private houses without a basement, concrete screeds have been used relatively recently as the basis for finishing flooring. Several factors influenced the popularization of this method, such as:

the need to create smooth horizontal surfaces, which is required by some types of modern floor coverings;
the emergence of affordable materials for effective thermal insulation;
arrangement of systems of water heat-insulated floors for heating.

Now let's take a step-by-step look at how to properly create a concrete screed on the ground on the ground floor of private houses.

Preparation and rough filling

Soil compaction before laying the rough screed

Preparatory work begin with tamping the soil and adding a pillow for a rough screed. The soil can be compacted both manually, using a simple device in the form of a piece of log with an attached double-sided handle, and mechanical devices that exist for this purpose. In order for the ramming process to be most effective, the soil surface is abundantly wetted with water.

The initial layer of backfill is selected based on its total thickness. If the distance from the soil to the level of the intended floor is significant (more than 25-30 cm), the most available material. It could be construction garbage or clay.

Further, the pillow is formed by a layer of large gravel, the thickness of which should be about 10 cm. The gravel creates a rigid base, roughly levels the surface and prevents a possible capillary rise of moisture from the underlying layers. On top of the gravel, a sandy (or small gravel) pillow is formed about 5-7 cm thick. The quality of the sand does not play a role here, so a clay-saturated quarry option is quite suitable. The sand cushion is leveled as much as possible, after which a durable plastic film is laid. The latter performs two functions:

the first layer of waterproofing;
an obstacle to the water contained in the concrete.

Pouring a rough reinforced screed

The film is laid continuously with a wall approach of up to 15 cm. Now you can pour a rough layer of concrete. For these purposes, a lean mortar is usually prepared, where the ratio of fillers (sand and gravel) and cement is approximately 9:1. Here, instead of crushed stone, if possible, you can use expanded clay. A pillow made of expanded clay concrete will provide additional insulation for the base of the floor. The rough screed is formed with a layer of about 10 cm. Despite the fact that the initial filling does not have to have an ideal surface, it is desirable to level it more carefully. This will facilitate further waterproofing and laying insulation.

Important! For the preparation of concrete, any sand is not suitable. There is a lot of clay in the quarry material, which will drastically reduce the strength of the concrete slab and lead to its cracking. For these purposes, you need river sand or washed, including for the preparation of expanded clay concrete composition.

The draft layer is usually not reinforced, since the load on it is small. After pouring, a break in work is necessary to allow the concrete to gain strength. Although the material completely crystallizes within 26-28 days, it is sufficient to wait a week. During this time, concrete with sufficient moisture gains about 70% strength. During this period, it is necessary to monitor the proper moistening of the concrete surface, especially if the work is carried out during the hot season. To do this, abundantly moisten the ripening concrete 1-2 times a day.

How to make waterproofing and insulate the floor?

Floor insulation with extruded polystyrene foam

For the main waterproofing layer, it is better to use not a polyethylene sheet, but a full-fledged, reliable material. Here it will be enough to process the rough concrete base with bitumen, followed by laying the rolled material. Suitable roofing material or hydrostekloizol. The rolls are rolled out with an overlap of adjacent strips by 10-15 cm. Hot gluing in this case can not be used, but it is necessary to process the joints with bituminous material. The rolled material is laid on the surface of the wall above the level of the intended finishing screed.

You can insulate the floor with dense foam (it is cheaper), or extruded polystyrene foam. The second one is preferable for these purposes, as it is much stronger, absolutely hydrophobic, and its plates usually have tongue/groove-type docking elements at the edges, which greatly simplifies its installation. The seams between the sheets of insulation can be filled with polyurethane foam or treated with special glue. Foam also needs to go through the gaps around the perimeter of the room between the wall and polystyrene foam.

Finishing fill

Laying reinforcing mesh and beacons before pouring the finishing screed

For these purposes, a solution is prepared with a normal ratio of 4:2:1, or 3:3:1, where, respectively, gravel, sand, cement. Before finishing pouring concrete, it is necessary to lay a mesh for reinforcement and install beacons, thanks to which it will be possible to achieve a strictly horizontal surface.

Reinforcing mesh can be used metal with a cell of 100 mm, or rigid plastic. The reinforcing elements are laid with an overlap (1-2 cells), not reaching the wall about 1.5 cm. Here, a damper tape is glued around the perimeter, which is designed to compensate for temperature changes linear dimensions screeds. The mesh should not lie on the insulation, but should be located approximately in the center of the concrete layer. To do this, use special stands or improvised means (bottle caps, brick fragments, etc.).

After the installation of the final base of the floor and its careful leveling (grinding or self-leveling solutions), it remains to wait for its full maturation and proceed with laying the final floor covering.

Wooden floor installation

In spite of big variety modern flooring, wooden floors have a lot of adherents among consumers. This can be understood given that wood is the most environmentally friendly material that can create a favorable microclimate in a residential area. Moreover, the modern board that is used for flooring allows you to make an ideal surface without cracks, which appearance in no way inferior to parquet.

The device of wooden floors on logs without insulation

Classic way floor board flooring suggests the presence of a log, wooden beams, which are located in parallel with a certain step, which depends on the thickness of the floor wooden layer. On the ground floor of a private house, when the floors are laid on the underlying soil, preparatory and intermediate work until the creation of a rough foundation and its waterproofing is no different from that described above. That is, for the device of a high-quality wooden floor, a reliable leveled concrete base is also required.

After installing the bearing bars, the floor should be insulated. The use of expanded polystyrenes is undesirable here, since these materials do not allow steam to pass through, which can cause water condensate to form, which will adversely affect the wood. In addition, foam, for example, can be chosen by rodents, which will entail some discomfort.

Waterproofing and insulation of a wooden floor with mineral wool

For a wooden floor on the logs of the first floor of a private house, it is better to use mineral wool, or rather one of its varieties. However, when laying mineral wool, you should take care of the moisture insulation of the insulation. If the hydrobarrier has already been created from below (on top of the rough screed), then it remains only to arrange upper layer hydro barrier film.

Important! To protect mineral wool from moisture, polyethylene film is not used. You need a special film web that can pass steam. If polyethylene is used, condensation will form under it with all the ensuing consequences.

The waterproof film is laid on the logs and the insulation laid between them before installing the floor board. Adjacent strips should overlap each other by at least 10 cm. So that the canvases do not move, they are fixed with a stapler to the supporting bars.

The most common version of the foundation for small private houses, when a non-buried strip foundation is made (there is no basement), and the base of the floor is created directly on the existing soil. This is done where there is no threat of high standing groundwater, and the relief of the site is homogeneous, lying approximately at the same level of the horizon. If the soil is located under a large slope, soil moisture during the year is excessive, it makes sense to make the base of the floor of the first floor of the house at a distance from the ground, leaving a ventilated space between them. Features of the device of both floor options in private homes will be considered in this article.

Features of the foundation device

The device of the floor of the first floor on the ground

installation of a concrete floor base (screed);
installation of wooden floors on logs.

Each of the presented options has its own characteristics, both in terms of the complex of necessary works, and in terms of the final result. The choice often depends on what building material is the main one in the construction of the house itself. If the walls are made of logs or timber, a wooden floor will be more organic. In a stone or brick building, a screed is better. But this is not an absolute pattern, so there may be other combinations.

Concrete insulated screed

the need to create smooth horizontal surfaces, which require some types of modern flooring;
the emergence of affordable materials for effective thermal insulation;
arrangement of systems of water heat-insulated floors for heating.

Now let's take a step-by-step look at how to properly create a concrete screed on the ground on the ground floor of private houses.

Preparation and rough filling

Preparatory work begins with tamping the soil and adding a pillow for a rough screed. The soil can be compacted both manually, using a simple device in the form of a piece of log with an attached double-sided handle, and mechanical devices that exist for this purpose. In order for the ramming process to be most effective, the soil surface is abundantly wetted with water.

The initial layer of backfill is selected based on its total thickness. If the distance from the soil to the level of the intended floor is significant (more than 25-30 cm), the most accessible material is used first. It can be construction debris or clay.

the first layer of waterproofing;
an obstacle to the water contained in the concrete.

Important! For the preparation of concrete, any sand is not suitable. There is a lot of clay in the quarry material, which will drastically reduce the strength of the concrete slab and lead to its cracking. For these purposes, river sand or washed sand is needed, including for the preparation of expanded clay concrete composition.

How to make waterproofing and insulate the floor?

You can insulate the floor with dense foam (it is cheaper), or extruded polystyrene foam. The second one is preferable for these purposes, as it is much stronger, absolutely hydrophobic, and its plates usually have tongue/groove-type docking elements at the edges, which greatly simplifies its installation. The seams between the sheets of insulation can be filled with polyurethane foam or treated with special glue. Foam also needs to go through the gaps around the perimeter of the room between the wall and polystyrene foam.

Finishing fill

Reinforcing mesh can be used metal with a cell of 100 mm, or rigid plastic. The reinforcing elements are overlapped (1-2 cells), not reaching the wall about 1.5 cm. Here, a damper tape is glued along the perimeter, which is designed to compensate for temperature changes in the linear dimensions of the screed. The mesh should not lie on the insulation, but should be located approximately in the center of the concrete layer. To do this, use special stands or improvised means (bottle caps, brick fragments, etc.).

After the installation of the final base of the floor and its careful leveling (grinding or self-leveling solutions), it remains to wait for its full maturation and proceed with laying the final floor covering.

Wooden floor installation

Despite the wide variety of modern floor coverings, wooden floors have a lot of adherents among consumers. This can be understood given that wood is the most environmentally friendly material that can create a favorable microclimate in a residential area. Moreover, a modern board that is used for flooring allows you to make an ideal surface without cracks, which in appearance is in no way inferior to parquet.

The classic way of laying a floor board involves the presence of a log, - wooden beams, which are arranged in parallel with a certain step, which depends on the thickness of the floor wooden layer. On the ground floor of a private house, when the floors are laid on the underlying soil, preparatory and intermediate work until the creation of a rough foundation and its waterproofing is no different from that described above. That is, for the device of a high-quality wooden floor, a reliable leveled concrete base is also required.

In projects country houses and cottages very often architects design monolithic floors on the ground. This floor construction is one of the most practical, reliable and economical of all. possible solutions zero-level ceilings in a country house. If in in general terms describe what kind of design it is, then the next puff cake of the floor on the ground is obtained. At the base, dense soil cleared of natural grass cover, then a bulk compacted layer of sand, a waterproofing film (membrane), then reinforced metal mesh a rough screed, a layer of insulation, again a waterproofing film, and finally, a finishing finish cement-sand screed. This general description the entire structure of the floor on the ground. But depending on the design and engineering solutions in the house, they can have several options, both in terms of the thickness of the floor pie and in its composition.

For example, if a house project has warm floors with a liquid coolant (water or antifreeze), then most often it is arranged on the ground and compacted sand bedding. rough concrete screed 80-100 mm thick, then insulation in the form of foam boards or extruded polystyrene foam 50-100 mm thick, then cement-sand screed 50-70 mm thick. The floor pie on the ground without the device of the "warm floor" (TP) system is practically no different from the design with the TP, but has more thin layer finishing screed 40-50 mm.
Write and say: In many construction forums, there are lively discussions on the topic so it is necessary to arrange a rough screed for the installation of floors on the ground, to lay insulation. Arguments are approximately the following nature of statements. Like, tamp the sand bed well and with high quality and there will be no drawdown, so arranging a rough screed, especially a concrete one, is a waste of money. The same arguments are given in the question of the need for laying insulation under the screed. They write that the earth is a good heat accumulator and the heat from the house will accumulate in the underground space, and then warm it.
Both the first and even more so the second arguments are highly controversial. In fact, in order to tightly and efficiently compact a sandy or sandy-gravel layer under a screed, it is necessary to use a mechanical vibrotamper. But at the same time, no one can guarantee that as a result of periodic settlement of heaving soils at the base, uneven subsidence of a compacted layer of sand or ASG will not occur. In this case, there is a danger formation of cracks in the sand-cement screed laid without an underlying concrete layer. Regarding the heat-accumulating properties of the earth under the floor, in this case the ordinary laws of thermodynamics work. results thermotechnical calculations show that at an outside temperature of 24 degrees C. the soil under the heated room warms up to no more than +8 degrees C, and inside the living quarters of the house it is recommended to keep comfortable temperature at + 18-24 gr.S.
Therefore, if we do not lay a heat-insulating barrier at the border of contact between the underground space and the heated room, part of the heat will be spent on heating the soil, and this is an endless process. With the same success, you can try to warm the sky over the spot of building a house. It is precisely such a barrier that is a layer of thermal insulation made of expanded polystyrene, polystyrene, expanded clay, etc.

Another topic of discussion on monolithic floors on the ground is the need to reinforce a rough concrete or cement-sand screed, which in construction terminology is defined by the term " underlying layer". In order not to delve deeply into this topic, we will quote excerpts from SP 29.13330.2011 Floors. (SNiP 2.03.13-88. Floors on the ground (clause 9):
"..9.1. Non-rigid base layers (from asphalt concrete; stone materials of a selected composition, slag materials, from crushed stone and gravel materials, including those treated with organic binders; soils and local materials treated with inorganic or organic binders) can be used subject to their mandatory mechanical seal.
9.2. A rigid underlying layer (concrete, reinforced concrete, reinforced concrete, steel fiber reinforced concrete (SFRC) and steel fiber reinforced concrete (SFRC)) must be made of concrete of a class not lower than B22.5.
If, according to the calculation, the tensile stress in the underlying layer of concrete of class B22.5 is lower than the calculated one, it is allowed to use concrete of a class of at least B7.5 with the execution of a leveling screed before applying the floor covering, at least B 12.5 - when applying all types of coatings, except for polymeric mastic bulk directly on concrete base, and not lower than B15 - when applying polymeric mastic bulk directly on a concrete base.
9.4. The thickness of the underlying layer is set by calculating the strength from the acting loads and must be at least, mm:
- sandy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
- slag, gravel and crushed stone. . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
- concrete in residential and public buildings . . . . . . . . . . . 80
- concrete in industrial premises. . . . . . . . . . . 100
9.5. When using a concrete underlayment as a coating or a base for a coating without a leveling screed, its thickness should be increased by 20 - 30 mm compared to the calculated one.
9.8. When using a rigid underlying layer to prevent deformation of the floor in case of possible settlement of the building, its cut-off from columns and walls through gaskets made of rolled waterproofing materials should be provided.
9.9. In rigid underlying layers, temperature-shrinkage joints should be provided, located in mutually perpendicular directions. The dimensions of the areas limited by the axes of the expansion joints should be set depending on the temperature and humidity conditions of floor operation, taking into account the production technology construction works and adopted design solutions.
The distance between expansion joints must not exceed 30 times the thickness of the underlying slab, and the depth of the expansion joint must be at least 40 mm and at least 1/3 of the thickness of the underlying layer. The increase in the distance between the expansion joints should be justified by the calculation for temperature effects, taking into account design features underlying layer.
The maximum ratio of the length of the sections limited by the axes of the expansion joints to their width should not exceed 1.5.
After the shrinkage process is completed, the expansion joints must be sealed with a putty composition based on Portland cement grade not lower than M400.
9.12. Expansion joints of the building must be repeated in the concrete underlying layer and performed throughout its entire thickness ... "

As you can see, there are no direct instructions for reinforcing the underlying layer in the joint venture. But, in the list of rigid foundations, as an underlying layer, we see both non-reinforced (concrete) and reinforced (reinforced concrete, reinforced concrete) materials.
Decisions in this regard are made on the basis of calculations by the designer of design organizations and bureaus. But, as a rule, in project documentation country houses, reinforcement of the rough screed is provided with reinforcement of the M8 periodic profile with a step of 200 mm. and a metal mesh 3-4 mm thick (in cards or rolls) with a cell of 100x100 mm. It is necessary to raise and fix the reinforcement and mesh from the bottom of the screed by 25-35 mm. to create a protective concrete layer. Such a screed is made with a thickness of 80 mm. from concrete mix in which a crushed stone fraction of 5-10 mm is used. (fine) and the sand is only river. Below is a drawing of a typical design cake of a monolithic floor on the ground, typical for most house projects:

And they do this: According to the practice of construction work, developers very often, in order to save money, do not reinforce the rough screed (underlying layer) with reinforcement. But this is already the decision of the construction customer to trust the calculation in the design documentation or follow the advice of the master builders.
The next question that interests a private developer when constructing a rough screed is when and where to apply waterproofing in the thickness of the layer cake of the floor on the ground.
The first waterproofing layer is laid immediately over the compacted sand or PG layer. And its task is not only to cut off capillary moisture, but also to prevent water leakage from the draft (underlying) concrete screed. Thus, they try, among other things, to maintain the strength and grade of the poured concrete layer. The second layer of waterproofing for the same purposes is laid out under a layer of finishing screed. As waterproofing materials, both ordinary high-strength polyethylene films and special membranes are used. The first option is cheaper, the second is more expensive.
Separately, it is worth dwelling on the issue of the thickness of the heat-insulating layer in the floors on the ground. In the design documentation of both foreign and Russian architects, it is recommended to arrange a heat-insulating layer of foam or XPS boards (extrusion) with a thickness of 50-100 mm. In each project, these values are derived on the basis of thermal calculations for enclosing structures.
Summarizing the above, we can draw conclusions and give the following recommendations for the installation of monolithic floors on the ground:
1. Qualitatively and correctly compact the sand or SG layer using a mechanical vibrating plate.
2. Install waterproofing barriers in the form polyethylene films or special membranes.
3. Fill or arrange a draft (underlying) layer according to the drawings of the structural section (CD) of the house project.
4. Lay a heat-insulating layer, the thickness of which is determined thermotechnical calculation in the project documentation for the house (section KR).
5. In a rigid underlying screed (concrete, cement-sand mixture, etc.), it is imperative to provide
6. hard underlying layer (rough screed) from walls, partitions, columns and technological outlets (sewerage, water supply) in the premises of the building where floors are laid on the ground.

In this part of the material on the installation of a monolithic floor on the ground, we did not consider in detail how to properly arrange a finishing screed. The device of the final screed should be approached especially carefully. To date, the main methods of laying a finishing screed are the traditional method of pouring a cement-sand mortar (wet screed) and the method of filling a moistened cement-sand mixture (semi-dry screed). But these are the topics of a separate article.

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