What is the best way to insulate the ceiling in a private house? Do-it-yourself ceiling insulation in a private house How to insulate the ceiling of a house from the outside with your hands.

Any owner strives to create comfortable living in his home. To do this, it periodically monitors possible heat losses, as a result of which the room temperature may decrease and energy use increase. Window and door openings are the main conductors of cold air.

As a rule, they are the first to be replaced by homeowners with quality products. Many rushed to insulate the walls, the foundation. And about the ceiling, for some reason, they do not always remember. And in vain! According to the laws of physics, heat loss due to poor-quality ceilings can be over 20 percent. The barrier created at the top will prevent heat from escaping, and the heaters will not have to heat the environment.

Ways to insulate the ceiling in a private house include both indoor work and in the attic. These works to strengthen the energy protection of the house are equivalent, so each owner can choose a convenient option for themselves.

The difference between the methods lies in the installation technology and the materials used:

• Insulation of the ceiling from the inside is accompanied by subsequent surface finishing with drywall or other suspended structures. It should be noted that the height of the room after installation will decrease from 10 to 25 cm. The material used must have vapor-permeable properties. These can be: mineral or basalt wool, penofol.
• External insulation of the ceiling is carried out in the attic. A more economical and profitable option, since it does not require further finishing work, if the use of an attic room is not provided. It is recommended to use a vapor barrier material to prevent moisture from reaching the ceiling. Most often used: foam, penoizol, mineral wool, expanded clay.

The choice of insulation

The modern construction market offers a huge amount of materials for ceiling insulation. Even expanded clay, sawdust, hay, clay and slag are used, which have a number of significant disadvantages among their advantages. The choice must meet the requirements of the technology.

The main requirements that a heater must meet:

• do not emit toxic substances;
• be resistant to moisture;
• have a low flammability.

Popular materials for home energy saving work

Mineral wool in the form of sheets or rolls is widely used in construction work. The characteristic of a heater meets technical requirements of thermal insulation. The use in residential premises is dictated by the absence of toxic substances in the composition and excellent thermal insulation properties. Mineral wool has components of limestone, basalt, diabase and dolomite.

Rocks endow the material with valuable qualities:

• low degree of thermal conductivity;
• resistance to temperature changes;
• lack of flammability;
• ecological feature.

And yet the material has disadvantages:

• ability to absorb moisture;
• during installation, be sure to use a waterproofing film;
• additionally process the seams of the joints with mounting foam for better sealing;
• for fixing the insulation, a crate is made of a wooden bar or profiles;
• relatively short service life (10-15 years).

Penofol consists of interlayers of polyethylene foam and aluminum foil. Combines the properties of several insulating materials with a fairly wide range of applications. Represents the basis in the innovative decoration of balconies and loggias.

It has low thermal conductivity, which will save energy. Protective qualities will prevent the penetration of cold air, drafts and radon into the room. In summer, penofol will help keep the house cool, create a comfortable microclimate.

The light weight of the material makes installation convenient, and the structure of the structure is not weighed down. To work with penofol, you will need a minimum amount of improvised means: a construction knife, adhesive tape and liquid nails.

Along with the advantages, there are also disadvantages:

• flexible surface means finishing the ceiling with a suspended structure with a frame;
• it is problematic to fix the material on some surfaces;
• to increase thermal protection, it is recommended to use mineral wool.

Expanded polystyrene is known to many more as polystyrene. Easy-to-use material creates a strong protection of heat in the room, without harming the health of the household. With proper installation, it fully justifies the costs and retains its qualities for a long time.

The advantages are:

• moisture resistance;
• good thermal conductivity;
• light weight, excluding structural reinforcement;
• simple installation.

The disadvantages include:

• easy flammability;
• instability to the effects of ultraviolet rays and solvents;
• low resistance to mechanical damage.

Penoizol is a liquid foamed foam. To insulate the ceiling from the outside, it is necessary to use special equipment for applying a binder to the surface.

Material advantages:

• affordable price;
• thermal insulation qualities;
• resistance to ignition;
• easily fills hard-to-reach places;
• safe operation.

Disadvantages:

• lack of special equipment excludes self-assembly;
• low resistance to mechanical stress;
• the first 2-3 weeks after installation, it evaporates a small amount of a toxic substance;
• ability to absorb moisture.

Do-it-yourself warming

If you adhere to the technological process and make the right choice of material, the installation is quite capable of doing it yourself.

Insulation of the ceiling inside the room using mineral wool

To complete the work, you will need material:

• mineral wool;
• metal profiles or wooden bars 150x30 mm;
• hardware;
• vapor barrier film;
• staples;
• mounting foam;
• dowels with a wide hat;
• drywall.

Set of tools:

• perforator;
• roulette;
• a hammer;
• screwdriver;
• scissors;
• construction knife.

Installation steps

• On the ceiling, make a crate of their wooden bars or a metal profile in increments of 50 cm.
• Cut the insulation to the size of the crate cell with an increase of 2 cm on the sides.
• Lay mineral wool in the cells without tamping it.
• Treat the joints of the insulation with mounting foam for sealing. The foam will also serve as resistance to the shrinkage of the insulation.
• Cover the surface with a vapor barrier film. The joints of the material should overlap by 10 cm. Using staples, fix the film to the crate.
• Finish the ceiling using drywall sheets.

Ceiling insulation in the attic using foam

Materials required for installation:

• foam sheets 40 mm thick;
• mounting foam;
• OSB sheets 15-18 mm;
• hardware.

Instruments:

• drill;
• hacksaw;
• a hammer;
• metalwork knife;
• screwdriver.

Installation steps

• Clear the attic of debris. If there are damaged spots or holes, repair them with a cement or gypsum mixture.
• Put the foam on the surface, tightly docking with each other.
• Process the connecting seams with mounting foam.
• Cover the top with OSB sheets (15-18 mm) or boards.

If you plan to use the attic as an attic, the insulated surface must be filled with a cement screed, at least 5 cm thick. Reinforcing mesh must be used.

• Insulation in the attic using foam sheets must be supplemented with a finish in the form of a screed or wooden boards. Unprotected foam is subject to mechanical damage that will affect its functionality.
• Thermal insulation from the outside is easier and more economical.
• Mineral wool must not be compressed. Losing structure, it loses valuable properties.
• Built-in lamps in the insulated ceiling should be mounted with a fence from the material with plasterboard inserts at a distance of 2-3 cm.
• To increase thermal protection, you can lay the attic in a complex way: with foam plastic and mineral wool. Layers of insulation should resemble brickwork.
• Use a marked film for vapor barrier. The use of ordinary polyethylene is not allowed.
• When using penofol for insulation in the attic, lay the foil down.

Ceiling insulation is the most important event among all insulating works. Everyone knows that, according to the laws of physics, heat rises, therefore, if insulation is not carried out, it will escape through the cracks, and the house will become cold. Insulation is the most economical way to make your home more comfortable and energy efficient. By reducing the amount of heat entering or leaving the home, insulation helps achieve a comfortable indoor temperature with less need for artificial heating and cooling. This makes the home more energy efficient and helps reduce energy bills.

Therefore, it is so important to insulate the ceiling in a private house. Without thermal insulation, the roof of the house will also suffer from direct sunlight from above and cold air coming from below. Such a roof quickly cracks and collapses.

Before proceeding with the thermal insulation of ceiling coverings with your own hands, it is necessary to take into account many nuances. This is the choice of insulation, and the ability to competently carry out installation.

The better to insulate the ceiling: types of heaters

Of course, different materials have their pros and cons. To properly insulate, familiarize yourself with the characteristics of popular insulating materials. This will give you the answer to the question of how best to insulate the ceiling in a private house.

Styrofoam

It is a lightweight gas-filled material. Insulation with expanded polystyrene inside the house is usually performed in combination with plasterboard sheets.

Its advantages:

• energy efficiency;
• resistance to adverse factors;
• a light weight;
• dimensional stability;
• chemical inertness;
• low cost

The disadvantage of foam is flammability.

Separately, it is necessary to highlight extruded polystyrene foam. It provides minimal water absorption and low steam content, so it is considered the best material for thermal insulation of ceilings in bathrooms in a private house, baths, saunas. In its production, additives are used that increase resistance to fire.
Laying polystyrene foam with your own hands indoors

Penofol

This foil insulation works differently than traditional materials. The reflectivity of aluminum foil allows you to retain heat longer.

The main purpose of foil insulation is vapor barrier.

Penofol consists of two materials that perform opposite functions - polyethylene foam and aluminum foil. If heat penetrates through the foil, closed bubbles will not let it through.

Advantages:

• fire resistance;
• does not pass steam and moisture;
• has sound absorbing ability.

The disadvantages of penofol include the lack of rigidity. Such thermal insulation cannot be covered with finishing solutions. You have to fasten it not with glue, but with staples or nails, since it will not adhere to glue.

Mineral wool

This type of insulation allows for high-quality insulation of the external ceiling in a private house. Because of the ease of use of mineral wools, they are very popular. This material has a number of distinctive qualities:

• high level of insulation, thanks to which the heat in the house remains for a long time;
• soft structure;
• fire resistance, which guarantees high safety of wooden houses;
• not afraid of temperature changes;
• excellent soundproofing.

The disadvantages of mineral wool include the fact that it cannot be crushed, tamped, due to the compaction of the fibers, thermal insulation properties may decrease. When wet, mineral wool completely loses its properties, so it must be isolated from vapors.
It is better to work with mineral wool in a mask (for more details, see the video)

Ecowool

An innovative insulating material made from organic binders will allow you to insulate the ceiling with high quality. Its distinctive characteristics are softness and gray color. Ecowool fibers are interconnected due to electrostatic stress and microcohesion of particles.

It is completely free of synthetic additives, so the material does not contain volatile organic compounds and ozone-depleting substances.

Ecowool is an ideal heat insulator in the homes of people with asthma and allergies. But such guarantees are given only by proven manufacturers. Handicraft ecowool is often filled with harmful substances.

Penoizol

One of the most popular modern options for insulation in a private house is foam spraying. This method allows you to save time and effort when working with your own hands. It takes very little space to store this heater. No fastening to the base and related work is needed.

Sprayed foam adheres well to any material. When applied, it expands, sealing all holes and gaps, penetrating into hard-to-reach places where air leakage can occur. A 5-7 cm layer of insulation gives it noise-reducing properties. If you also insulate the floor and walls with this material at the same time, extraneous sounds will not penetrate into your house.

polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam insulation creates an excellent air barrier - an excellent vapor retarder. PPU fills all the cracks and holes, providing protection against drafts. Polyurethane foam is environmentally safe, biologically neutral, does not cause allergic reactions. The only disadvantage of using PPU is the high cost.

This insulator is suitable even for non-residential premises, the insulation in which often leads to the formation of condensate in the cold season. PPU does not allow steam and moisture to pass through, so it is possible to avoid condensation and protect the metal ceiling. Spraying polyurethane foam even with one layer is guaranteed to provide complete sealing.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay insulation makes it possible to provide effective and inexpensive heat saving in any type of room.

Of the positive points, there are:

• high fire resistance;
• relatively low water absorption;
• high pressure resistance;
• frost resistance;
• good sound absorption;
• ability to accumulate heat;
• low thermal transmittance.

Expanded clay is made from clay. It can also be used in conjunction with other insulation materials:

• for leveling uneven support surfaces to make them suitable for laying insulating panels or rolls;
• for high performance solutions that optimize the thermal performance of the roof in summer and winter;
• to create a safe distance between chimneys and hot pipes, preventing ignition.

Before starting DIY work, the airtightness and load-bearing capacity of the base plate should be assessed, taking into account the additional weight of the new insulating layer.

Sawdust

Insulation with sawdust is the simplest and practically inexpensive way. It is better to take sawdust from coniferous wood of a medium-sized fraction. They contain resin, which provides resistance to fungus, mold and insects. It is better to buy sawdust in advance and let them rest for at least a year indoors.

Before using sawdust, it is necessary to carry out high-quality waterproofing, as they are afraid of moisture, and only then carry out installation.

Depending on the structure of the material, insulation can be divided into several groups:

Group	materials	Peculiarities	Where are they used
Monolithic	Styrofoam, polystyrene, penofol	Stacked in large blocks	Suitable for internal and external insulation
Sprayers	Polyurethane foam, polyisol	pouring method	For external only
Fibrous (porous)	Mineral wool, ecowool	Basically, installation is carried out using special tools.	For internal and external
Bulk insulation	Expanded clay and sawdust	The minimum backfill thickness is 20 cm	For external

How to insulate the ceiling

Insulate the ceiling from inside the room or outside. Internal insulation is carried out using monolithic slabs. Then they make a false ceiling of drywall or other structures. With low ceilings, it is better to carry out external insulation.

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house from the outside? For this, any heaters with vapor-tight abilities are suitable. If the ceiling is being insulated in an old house, the space must be cleared of debris and any old insulation material that has become unusable before carrying out work on laying new insulation. The most common installation method is to lay insulating material between and above the beams.

When the question arises, what is the best way to insulate the ceiling of a private house, many choose between traditional and new generation materials that allow free pouring. The second method is better because the substance fills all the gaps. Rigid insulation boards cannot be cut so precisely that they fit into the gaps between the beams. Therefore, such isolation is less perfect, since it is impossible to achieve complete solidity.

For external insulation, a frame made of wooden beams and boards is mounted on the floor of the attic with traditional heaters. And then it is filled with the selected thermal insulation material (see video above).

Between the insulation and the ceiling, you need to lay a layer of vapor barrier so that the moisture that rises with the air is not absorbed by it.

Ecowool has two mounting methods. At the first time, it is pumped with the help of "blowing machines". The fiber fills the entire space, forming a seamless coating. Cellulose fibers absorb excess moisture. Therefore, with this method, insulation is carried out without a vapor barrier device. But when insulating with penofol, an air gap of at least 2 cm is made between the ceiling and the insulation.

The injection of ecowool during insulation can be performed before laying the roofing during the construction of a private house.

With the second method, you can simply scatter ecowool on the horizontal surface of the ceiling or fall asleep between the sheets of sheathing. But the manual method is more complicated and does not allow you to evenly distribute the material.

For the installation of bulk material, it is backfilled and leveled. Then roofing material is laid on top of it. Its sheets should go on top of each other. The joints of the coating for sealing are coated with bituminous mastic.

Why do many people prefer ordinary sawdust? If a tree is buried in a wooden house, it will become completely environmentally friendly. Knowing which insulation is best for the ceiling, you will be able to carry out high-quality insulation with your own hands, which will prolong the life of the house.

Ceiling insulation in a private house is a guarantee of warm rooms in winter and a cool climate in summer. You need to take care of this even at the stage of building a house. But if the house got ready, you can still insulate the ceiling with minimal effort.

School knowledge of physics can still be useful in life. So, due to convection, when cold air goes down and hot air goes up, all the heat accumulated in the room will penetrate through the uninsulated ceiling into the unheated attic. Because of this, it is necessary to increase the power of the boiler and, as a result, incur additional heating costs.

For the same reason, ceiling insulation requires a more serious approach than wall insulation - due to air currents, the heat loss of a wooden ceiling can reach 3 W / m2 / K. For brick or concrete floors, the figure is even higher. At the same time, there is no need to insulate the ceilings between living quarters if the temperature in them is the same. It is enough to take care of soundproofing and save money on thermal insulation of the attic and roof.

In summer, it is also better to have an insulated ceiling - the roof heated in the sun transfers heat into the room, nullifying the work of air conditioners. Having spent once on thermal insulation, you can enjoy a comfortable microclimate in your home for many years.

What to look for when choosing a heater?

First of all, you need to decide on the place of laying the insulation - inside or outside the living rooms. The first option is highly undesirable for several reasons:

• ceiling height is reduced;
• it is impossible to use bulk insulation;
• the cooling point is shifted closer to the inner side of the floors;
• inevitable repairs due to the dismantling of the old ceiling.

Attic insulation is devoid of all these negative features. But if an attic is not provided, or an attic floor is provided for in the project, the roof must be immediately insulated.

The choice of materials for insulation with your own hands

Styrofoam or EPPS, as well as mineral wool and its analogues, are suitable for insulation from the inside and outside. Such materials are laid between beams or in a specially constructed frame and covered with drywall, OSB boards or clapboard.

But if the house has a sauna, then it is better not to insulate the ceiling above it with polystyrene foam - due to high temperatures, it can begin to release substances harmful to humans.

Aerated concrete slabs are also excellent for internal insulation - due to their low weight and ease of installation. Their thickness up to 10 cm will not “eat” a lot of height, and additional plating is not required. Glue for polystyrene boards is applied to the plates with a notched trowel and pressed against the ceiling.

The insulation is puttied and painted.

Bulk heaters are quite economical - shavings, ecowool or expanded clay. True, having a high hygroscopicity, they require good waterproofing. Such insulation is poured between the beams from the side of the attic with a layer of about 15 cm, and for ease of movement in the attic they are covered with OSB boards.

True, having a high hygroscopicity, they require good waterproofing.

What kind of insulation is not chewed by mice?

Mice gnaw on any insulation. But not as food, but to expand their moves. You can hear claims that mice eat Styrofoam. This is not entirely true - they gnaw through it and build nests in it. But the same fate will befall mineral wool, although a little later.

Because of the flowability, ecowool can save a little - but rodents will simply endure it until they can settle and move normally in a heater. Expanded clay is the most resistant to rodents - strong "pebbles", large enough so that mice and even rats cannot carry them away, and at the same time small enough to fill up their moves.

But there is a catch here - the mice will arrange “laying” there. Therefore, the only way to protect the insulation is to keep rodents out of it in principle. Everything else is just a temporary and very unreliable solution.

How to insulate the ceiling of the attic floor?

Do-it-yourself insulation from the attic side is quite simple. First, space is freed up and the floor covering is completely removed (if it was). Work is done step by step:

To insulate a concrete floor, the technology is exactly the same - it is enough to lay logs on top of the concrete. You can also use sprayed materials, but this requires special equipment and certain skills.

How to insulate the ceiling from the inside?

With the help of a suspended ceiling, you can insulate the room from the inside. For this:

Due to the lack of ventilation, it is undesirable to use spotlights in an insulated ceiling - they heat up and quickly fail. And upon contact with the foam, the insulation may begin to melt.

There are three ways to solve the problem. The first is to use only pendant chandeliers and wall lights. The second is to remove the layer of thermal insulation around the fixtures built into the ceiling. At the same time, do not forget about the vapor barrier - it should close the mineral wool without gaps. And the third is to lower the ceiling a few more centimeters, sufficient to install spotlights.

How to insulate the attic floor and the ceiling of the attic floor is described in detail in the video:

In the conditions of severe Russian winters, the problem of high-quality insulation of a house is a matter of, if not survival, then at least the comfort of life and health of your family members. In a “cold” cottage without any thermal insulation, heating costs will beat all conceivable records, and colds will become the norm for its residents.

But this will not happen if you make sound insulation of walls, floors and ceilings in the house. This is especially true for ceilings - heated air always tends to rise, and if it does not meet a barrier in the form of a layer of heat-insulating material on its way, it will simply go outside. And you end up with condensation on the ceiling and b about higher heating costs.

The quality of ceiling insulation is highly dependent on what material would be used and how well it was installed. And at this point, the owner is faced with the question: what to choose? Today, there are many types of insulation on the building materials market, and each of them is presented as the best in its segment. This article should help you solve the problem of choosing thermal insulation materials, it will tell you about their features, installation methods, advantages and disadvantages.

Ways to insulate the ceiling

First you need to talk about ways to insulate the ceiling. In our case, this will be the ceiling of the last floor, above which there is only an attic and a roof - it is through it that the main heat losses occur.

The first method of insulation is external. If you do not plan to make an attic under the roof, then this method is suitable for you. A frame is mounted on the floor of the attic with the help of a wooden beam and boards, the inner space of which is filled with heat-insulating material. The design of the frame depends on what kind of insulation you use.

If you want to arrange an attic or a small warehouse in the attic, then the ceiling should be insulated from the inside.. In this case, in the rooms of the last floor, the above-mentioned frame is formed on the ceilings, fixed with dowels-nails. After laying the heat-insulating material, it is closed with drywall, plastic panels or clapboard. This method of insulation is very time consuming and also reduces the height of the dwelling. Therefore, at the stage of building a house, this moment should be taken into account and the walls of the last floor should be made a little higher.

Advice! A layer of vapor barrier should be laid between the insulation and the ceiling, otherwise the moisture rising with the air will be absorbed by the insulation, which will significantly worsen its properties. In addition, dampness under the roof does not have the best effect on the strength of the rafters.

Insulation of ceilings in the house with mineral wool

Mineral wool is a fibrous heat insulator produced in the form of rolls or plates. The composition of the material is determined by GOST R 52953-2008, and in total there are three types of mineral wool - stone, slag and glass (better known as glass wool). Let's consider them in more detail.

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

GOST R 52953-2008 “Heat-insulating materials and products. Terms and Definitions"

Stone wool is made from various rocks such as diabase or gabbro, and also contains clay, limestone, dolomite and a binder containing formaldehyde resins. The average coefficient of thermal conductivity of stone wool is 0.08-0.12 W/(mK). In our case, the lower its value, the more the material is suitable for the role of insulation.

Important! One of the biggest drawbacks of mineral wool is that it can contain substances in its composition that, when heated, release phenols into the air that are dangerous to humans. There have been discussions and disputes around this issue for a long time. Basalt wool is considered the safest, which contains the minimum amount of potentially harmful substances.

Unlike stone, slag wool is produced from blast-furnace slags and other metallurgy waste. The thermal conductivity coefficient averages 0.47 W / (mK), which, combined with its high hygroscopicity (ability to absorb moisture), makes slag wool an unsuitable material for ceiling insulation. In addition, it has residual acidity, so it should be kept away from metal pipes, beams and other products.

Glass wool ranks first in the quality of thermal insulation among mineral wool - 0.03 W / (mK). It also has a very low price. The disadvantages include the fact that particles of this material can harm a person by getting on the skin, eyes or lungs. But this is to some extent characteristic of all types of mineral wool, therefore, when working with them, it is imperative to wear gloves, goggles, a respirator mask and closed work clothes.

The main advantage of all types of mineral wool is that this material is very convenient for transportation, carrying and installation, as it has a low weight. In addition, it is non-combustible and can only sinter at very high temperatures (losing its heat-insulating properties). And it is especially important for country houses that mineral wool is not an attractive place for rodents, insects, fungi or mold.

The most famous manufacturers of this material are Isover, Ursa and Paroc. If quality is important to you, then when you go to a hardware store, look for mineral wool from these companies. When choosing, also pay attention to the density of the material - the ceiling may not withstand too dense and heavy samples of mineral wool.

The process of insulation should begin by determining the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling, because first you need to calculate how much mineral wool, vapor and waterproofing films you will need. Next, the technology of the external method of ceiling insulation will be considered. If you need internal insulation, follow the same instructions, but swap the layers of hydro and vapor barrier.

glass wool prices

glass wool

Ceiling area calculation

In addition to the insulation itself, you will need wooden boards or a metal profile, tools for cutting mineral wool, protective clothing and accessories (gloves, a respirator and goggles) and fasteners.

1. First, we lay a vapor barrier film on the attic floor, while making sure that there are no gaps on it. Laying should be overlapped, the seams should be glued with a special vapor barrier tape.
2. On top of it we mount a crate made of wood or a galvanized profile. The distance between the slats should be several - a couple of centimeters - less than the width of the sheet or roll of mineral wool. So the insulation will fit tighter. The height of the crate should exceed the thickness of the heat-insulating layer by 1-2 centimeters in order to subsequently ensure air circulation between it and the waterproofing.
3. We unpack the mineral wool and put it in the space between the slats. If the material is laid in several layers, the next layer should overlap the seams of the previous one.
4. From above, we attach waterproofing to the crate using a furniture stapler. At the same time, as already mentioned above, there should be a small space between it and the mineral wool for air circulation.

Foam insulation

Styrofoam is considered the second most popular after mineral wool. Foam plastics are called polymeric materials, consisting of cells filled with gas. That is why foam plastics perform well as a heat-insulating material. Of these, in everyday life you can most often find polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam. On average, the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the foam is 0.041 W / (mK), which, in terms of insulation qualities, makes it similar to glass wool.

Like mineral wool, expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam have a low price and low weight. The latter property makes their transportation, storage and installation on the ceiling convenient. However, polystyrene has a number of disadvantages that make it not the best choice for a residential building.

1. Styrofoam burns well and at the same time emits many substances dangerous to humans. Moreover, they can stand out even with a slight heating.
2. Mice can live in the foam layer, but it is worth noting that it is not a breeding ground for insects or fungus.
3. In a room whose ceiling is insulated with foam, a "greenhouse effect" may occur.

There are two ways to mount foam - on the frame and on glue. The first is in many ways similar to mineral wool insulation, but when laying foam sheets between the slats, “liquid nails” must be applied to their sides. And about the installation of this material with glue, you should tell in more detail and step by step.

Styrofoam prices

Styrofoam

1. The surface on which the foam will be laid is thoroughly washed and cleaned from possible irregularities. If necessary, it can be primed.
2. Glue is applied to the foam sheets (tile works well) and after three minutes of waiting, the sheet must be pressed against the surface of the attic or ceiling.
3. Repeat the procedure with all other foam sheets.
4. Apply a layer of reinforcing plaster on the sheets and lay the fiberglass mesh. After drying, the mesh is covered with another layer of plaster.

Penoizol as a heater

An alternative to polystyrene foams and polyurethane foams can be penoizol, which is a "liquid" foam. Thanks to special additives, it gets rid of the main disadvantages of its solid counterparts - attractiveness to rodents and flammability. The disadvantage of penoizol is that for its application it is necessary to call a team of workers with special equipment, and this can be quite expensive.

The technology of insulation using penoizol is simple: we lay a vapor barrier and fill the space between the attic beams with a layer of insulation to a thickness of 20-30 centimeters. From above, you can additionally lay a layer of roofing material and lay a plank floor.

Ecowool

The prefix "eco-" in the title of this material is not for the purpose of advertising. Ecowool is indeed an environmentally friendly material, as it consists of 80% natural cellulose. The remaining 20% ​​are various additives, such as lingin, which gives the structure stickiness, or boric acid and antiseptics that protect ecowool from decay, fungus and rodents. Also, the composition of this material includes flame retardants, thanks to which ecowool does not burn, but only smolders under the influence of flame and very high temperatures. The thermal conductivity of the material is 0.038 W / (mK).

There are two ways to insulate the ceiling with environmentally friendly cotton wool - dry and wet. In the first case, the material is placed in the prepared "cells" of the ceiling, but at the same time its thermal insulation properties will be only 60-70% of the possible ones. The second method uses special equipment that moistens ecowool and sprays it under high pressure. Upon contact with water, the insulation becomes sticky and adheres tightly to the surface of the ceiling or attic. The disadvantage of ecowool is just that for its “wet” application you will need special equipment and people who know how to work with it.

Consider the stages of ceiling insulation using ecowool in an external way.

Ecowool prices

1. The surface of the ceiling is cleaned and leveled - it is necessary to get rid of dirt and debris.
2. A crate made of wooden beams is mounted, similar to a crate for laying mineral wool. If desired, this stage can be skipped, but then it will be impossible to use the attic.
3. A layer of vapor barrier film is laid. If necessary, it is possible to wrap the crate structure itself in it.
4. With the help of a blowing machine, the space between the slats is filled with ecowool. Particular attention should be paid to cracks and hard-to-reach places. The minimum layer of insulation should be 25 centimeters, but if you live in an area with very cold winters, then the thickness should be increased to 40-50 cm.
5. A waterproofing film is laid over the ecowool, overlapping and fastening the seams with a special adhesive tape.

Video - External attic insulation with ecowool

Ceiling insulation with expanded clay

Expanded clay is a bulk heat-insulating material, which is a stone made of baked clay with a porous structure. It is very popular as a floor insulation, but it is also suitable for ceilings if they are insulated externally. The thermal conductivity of expanded clay is 0.18 W / (mK). Due to its composition, this insulation does not burn, does not smolder or melt, does not emit harmful substances into the air and is unattractive to fungus or mice.

But at the same time, expanded clay is inferior in terms of thermal insulation properties to foam plastic or mineral wool, and, moreover, it is a very dense and heavy material, therefore it can only be used for fairly strong ceilings with support beams.

The technology for insulating the ceiling with expanded clay is as follows.

An alternative to expanded clay among bulk heat insulators can be foam glass, also often called foam crumb. Its thermal conductivity is 0.08 W / (mK), which is more than two times less than expanded clay (recall that in the case of insulation, the lower this indicator, the better).

sawdust as insulation

Finally, we come to a material that has been used as insulation for decades, even before the advent of foam and mineral wool. These are sawdust. They can be used both independently, simply filling the attic with them, and as part of a mixture with clay or cement.

The only advantage of such a heater is its cheapness - you can either use the waste of your own construction, or contact the nearest sawmill and get the material for free or for a symbolic price. But does the cheapness of sawdust outweigh all its shortcomings?

Expanded clay prices

expanded clay

1. Sawdust burns well, therefore, when using them, all electrical wiring in the attic should be protected with metal boxes. In addition, this material should not be used near a chimney or chimney.
2. Rodents, insects, or a fungus can appear in the sawdust, and without impregnation with an antiseptic, these problems cannot be eliminated.
3. The material shrinks over time, which significantly worsens its thermal insulation properties. In addition, you will have to add fresh sawdust regularly.
4. With such a heater, it is impossible to use the space under the roof - neither to arrange an attic, nor to store old furniture and other things in the attic.

Cement-sawdust mortar is prepared as follows: for 10 parts of sawdust of small or medium fraction, 1 part of cement and 1 part of lime are taken. Substances are thoroughly mixed with each other until a dry mixture is formed. Then you need to take 5-10 parts of water mixed with a few tablespoons of copper sulfate. Vitriol in our case acts as an antiseptic, which will not allow sawdust insulation to rot. Pour the mixture and bring it to a homogeneous mass. Checking if it is ready is quite simple: take the cement-sawdust mixture and squeeze it in your fist. If no water drips from it, then it is ready.

Next, you need to prepare the attic for insulation. To do this, you need to lay a vapor barrier material and treat all wooden structural elements with a flame retardant (impregnation that protects against combustion). After that, you need to lay out the cement-sawdust mixture, level it and leave it for a couple of weeks so that it dries completely.

Important! If necessary, cement can be replaced with clay. Also remember that when drying in the cement-sawdust insulation, cracks may appear. They need to be sealed with the same mixture.

Outcome

This review of materials for thermal insulation of the ceiling in the house can be completed. Now, having weighed all the pros and cons, you can choose the most suitable insulation for you. Below is a table designed to compare the characteristics of thermal insulation materials.

Table. Comparison of the main parameters of popular heaters.

Name	Density, kg/m3	Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/(mK)	combustibility
glass wool	200	0,03	Does not burn, melts
Basalt wool	From 75 to 200, depending on the brand	0,12	Does not burn, melts
Styrofoam	40 to 150	0,041	Burns, emits hazardous substances
Ecowool	40 to 75	0,038	Does not burn, melts
Expanded clay	800 to 1200	0,18	Does not burn
Sawdust	200 to 400	0,08	Are burning

Do not want to breathe phenols and are a fan of environmental cleanliness? Then you should opt for ecowool, but here you will have to provide for the costs of hiring a specialist who will insulate the ceiling using this material. The most optimal in terms of cost, ease of installation, safety and thermal insulation properties is mineral wool, while basalt wool should be singled out separately, as it contains the least amount of harmful substances and has the widest range of allowable temperature. The cheapest options would be sawdust or expanded clay. Styrofoam is relatively inexpensive, has good thermal insulation, but the substances emitted by it can be dangerous.

Video - What is the best way to insulate the ceiling of a private house? Comparison of options

Compared to city apartments in high-rise buildings, private houses have a large area of ​​contact with the external environment, so the issue of high-quality thermal insulation is much more relevant here. About 35% of the heat escapes into the ambient air through an uninsulated ceiling if the roof and attic space are not insulated with a thermal barrier. Losing so much thermal energy for nothing is an unaffordable luxury, so we will consider the best options for thermal insulation of ceilings.

Insulation from the inside or from the side of the attic - which is preferable?

Modern building technologies provide for the installation of heat-insulating layers simultaneously with the construction of the building. In this case, the most convenient and efficient insulation installation schemes are selected at the design stage, taking into account the type of ceiling, the total load on building structures, and the need for heat saving in a given climatic zone. This happens ideally if a new house is being built in compliance with building requirements and rules.

If a private building was erected a long time ago, or recently, but on its own, it is quite possible that there may not be high-quality thermal insulation, including ceiling ceilings, in the house. In such a situation, homeowners have to solve the problem of insulation on their own, choosing methods that meet the needs for saving heat, the features of the building in general and the type of floors in particular. The first question that arises on the way to solving the indicated problem is the side of the ceilings, from which it is more convenient and expedient to arrange a thermal insulation barrier.

It is possible to insulate the floors on each side, and in any case it will be correct. But when choosing a method of insulation, you need to take into account some nuances. The first of these is the height of the ceilings. If the ceilings are low, and there is no desire to hide the usable space further, insulation from the attic clearly suggests itself, because the insulation layer (at least 5-6 cm) plus the finish (2-3 cm) will make the ceilings even lower. Another situation - the rooms have already been finished, the interior is decorated, and it suits the household quite well. Warming the ceiling from the inside will lead to the need to make repairs again, which is inappropriate in every respect. Here, it is also preferable to lay a heat-insulating barrier on top of the floors.

It makes sense to insulate ceilings from the inside only in a situation where a major overhaul is being carried out in the house. In this case, one of the methods of internal thermal insulation of ceilings is envisaged, which is carried out during the repair and finishing works. Although recently, homeowners increasingly prefer to insulate the ceiling from the attic. So much more convenient, less expensive and, moreover, easy. And this is a strong factor if you plan to install a heat-insulating barrier with your own hands.

There is an option to insulate the floors on both sides. So do those who want to turn housing into an impregnable fortress for the winter cold and summer heat, so that they can constantly save on energy bills.

Looking for the right material - polymers or fibers?

Now there is a sufficient choice that can be applied for our purposes. Along with the use of modern thermal insulation materials, traditional heaters are often used, which have been serving for this for more than one century. These include wood chips and sawdust, as well as materials based on them (sawdust concrete, a mixture of woodworking waste with clay). Some cover the floor of the attic with a layer of dry leaves or paws of coniferous trees. Such methods of floor insulation were used by our ancestors, but nothing prevents us from using such completely natural and often free materials in our time. Although modern technologies and materials are preferred by consumers, therefore, we will briefly consider their diversity and main characteristics.

By classifying the materials applicable for the insulation of ceilings, they can be divided into several groups:

• polymer heat insulators;
• fibrous insulation;
• sprayed materials;
• bulk substances.

Polymers include the well-known polystyrene and extruded polystyrene, which is rapidly gaining popularity, known to many under the commercial name "foam". Polyfoam is used very widely for thermal insulation purposes in construction. The popularity of the material is provided by two factors - a very affordable cost and good thermal insulation properties. A high-quality material with a density of at least 35 kg / m 3 also has sufficient hydrophobicity so that there is no need to install hydro- and vapor barriers when installing an insulating layer. Everything would be fine, but there are, the main of which is flammability, accompanied by extreme toxicity. The smoke emitted during the combustion of this polymer is capable of sending anyone who inhales it 2-3 times to the forefathers. For this reason, in many developed countries, this insulation is prohibited for thermal insulation work in residential buildings.

Penoplex is devoid of many of the shortcomings of foam. It belongs to the class of non-combustible or self-extinguishing materials, so its use in residential construction is not limited. In addition, polystyrene is absolutely not susceptible to moisture, is not susceptible to damage by bacterial and fungal microflora. The strength of foam plastic is one of the highest when compared with other heat insulators, so polystyrene is often used where strength characteristics play an important role (under the screed, thermal insulation of building basements, basements). In terms of thermal insulation properties, polystyrene is approximately the same as polystyrene - to create a reliable thermal barrier, a layer of insulation of 5-10 cm is enough (depending on the geography of the region).

Fibrous materials for thermal insulation works in construction include varieties of mineral wool. The material differs in the nature of the raw material, which is used for the manufacture of the material. All types of mineral wool are produced by melting minerals and forming fibers held together with organic adhesives. If the fibers are formed from molten glass, the result is glass wool. Slag wool is made in the same way from blast-furnace slag and other mineral waste from metallurgical production. Basalt wool, considered the highest quality material from this category, is formed by thermal action on certain types of rocks.

All fibrous heaters are made in various densities. The highest specific weight has mats, which are used mainly for facade thermal insulation for plastering. Such a heat insulator is strong and rigid, therefore it forms a solid surface for finishing work on it. Mineral wool of medium density is also produced in the form of mats, but the material is looser and does not have high strength. Mineral wool with the lowest specific gravity goes on sale rolled into rolls. To insulate the ceiling in the house, you can use mineral wool of medium and low density, and the first will be more appropriate for thermal insulation from the side of the attic with a cold roof, the second - for the installation of a thermal barrier from the inside.

Sprayable and bulk options - there is plenty to choose from

The last word in the technology of thermal insulation of building surfaces is sprayed heat insulators. These include polyurethane foam and ecowool. The first material is a polymer, the second is made from natural raw materials (cellulose). Both heat insulators are applied to the surfaces to be insulated by spraying, although in some cases ecowool is poured into the existing gaps in a dry form, followed by tamping.

Polyurethane foam by its chemical nature, method of application and structure of the finished thermal insulation is very close to conventional mounting foam. For the preparation of a foam material with excellent adhesive properties, two components are used, which are dismounted and then applied using special equipment. The advantage of sprayed insulation is its seamlessness, which prevents the formation of cold bridges. Polyurethane foam in the polymerized (hardened) state is not combustible and has 1.3 times better thermal insulation characteristics than polystyrene. The disadvantage of a heat insulator is the gradual destruction under the influence of ultraviolet radiation (needs to be protected) and the impossibility of working with it with your own hands (the equipment is expensive and it is not advisable to purchase it for one-time use).

The most used loose heat insulator is expanded clay - porous granules of various fractions. The raw material for the production of expanded clay is ordinary clay, so this insulation is environmentally friendly and natural. This insulation does not burn, has moderate hygroscopicity and good thermal insulation properties. The ability to resist heat loss depends on the size of the granules - the smaller the fraction, the higher the thermal conductivity.

For insulation of the attic floor, it is advisable to use expanded clay with a fraction of 5-10 mm.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling from the side of living rooms

There are two ways to insulate floors from the inside. The first one involves the installation of heat-insulating plates or mats directly on the floor surface using glue and additional fixation with special dowels. This method is best used if a reinforced concrete slab is used as the floor. The second technology provides for the installation of a crate for subsequent sheathing with drywall sheets, plastic panels or clapboard. In this case, the insulation is laid between the supporting elements of the frame. This method is feasible for any type of ceiling. Both methods give a good thermal insulation effect, although the thickness of the layer is often limited, due to the desire to save a maximum of usable space.

To implement the technology of direct installation of insulation on plates, extruded polystyrene is more often used, although mineral wool mats with a high specific gravity can also be used. Polystyrene is preferred for several reasons:

• the material is lighter, more convenient to work with during its installation;
• the thermal conductivity of polystyrene of the same thickness is about one and a half times lower than the same indicator of high-density mineral wool;
• to form finishing layers on the surface of mineral wool, you need to have the skills of such an activity, while plastering on polystyrene is no more difficult than on drywall.

In general, the installation of these heaters differs little. The only difference is in the polymer-cement mixtures used for gluing heat-insulating sheets. The sequence of actions with this method of insulation is as follows:

• we process the floor slab with a priming mixture;
• we prepare polymer cement glue (according to the instructions on the package);
• we apply the adhesive mixture on the insulation sheet (along the perimeter and in the center), after which we press the polystyrene plate to the concrete surface and set it in a horizontal plane;
• after the glue has set (about a day later), we additionally fix the insulation sheets with "umbrellas" - special dowels with a wide round cap.

It remains to plaster the insulation using a reinforcing mesh and apply finishing finishing layers. If the second method is used, which involves laying insulation in the gaps between the slats or profiles, we take medium or low density mineral wool as a heat-insulating material. Thermal insulation is placed between the elements of the frame and slightly fixed with bent planks of direct hangers, with which the profiles are attached to the ceiling, after which the crate is closed with sheathing.

Thermal barrier device on the attic floor - available methods

For the installation of a thermal barrier on the side of the attic, all of the materials mentioned above are applicable. If you need to hire specialized teams for insulation with ecowool or polyurethane foam, it will not be difficult for any home craftsman to form heat-insulating layers with expanded clay, mineral wool or polymer sheet insulation.

If the overlap is made with a reinforced concrete slab, it is more expedient to use expanded clay, filling it with a layer of up to 15 cm, or lay penoplex, filling the seams between the sheets of polymer insulation with mounting foam. When it is better to use mineral wool, since it is similar to wood in terms of its ability to pass water vapor. Fibrous insulation is laid between the load-bearing wooden beams, after which a vapor barrier is made of the appropriate film. Then counter-rails are sewn along the beams, which will be the basis for laying the attic floor boards.

If there is free access to lumber waste, you can reduce the cost of the event as much as possible by filling the spaces between the beams with a mixture of small chips and sawdust. This method of thermal insulation will be the most environmentally friendly and natural for floors made of wood materials.