DIY Bathroom Renovation - The Best Ways to Create a Beautiful Interior! (71 photos). Stages and sequence of work when performing repairs in the bathroom

The bathroom is a room with special conditions: high humidity, temperature changes. Therefore, when starting a bathroom renovation, you should clearly plan the entire workflow, think over the sequence of steps to be performed. In this article, you will learn how to start a bathroom renovation and what types of work you need to do yourself.

Step-by-step instructions for renovation in the bathroom

Stage 1: drawing up a plan and choosing a design solution.

There are two types of bathroom renovations:

• unplanned, spontaneous, arose by the will of unforeseen circumstances. For example, when a pipe breaks, flooding by neighbors.
• planned, which is cosmetic or capital. It requires planning, serious investments and time.

It is worth starting repairs in the bathroom with a definition of design, interior. Think over to the smallest detail what this room will be like, choose a color. are considered traditional pastel shades, as well as a combination of blue with blue or peach with beige.

The next moment is a choice facing material. As a rule, finishing in the bathroom is done with tiles, porcelain tiles, mosaics, plastic panels. Check plumbing to see if it needs to be replaced. If necessary, select suitable option. We turn to measuring work: we measure all sides, calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. Based on these data, we mark the location of the plumbing.

Stage 2: selection of plumbing fixtures and finishing materials.

It is important to understand for yourself that the purchase of plumbing is preceded by the planning stage, and not vice versa. This means that first we develop a design project, draw up a plan, and only then we go to the store. Another point - you should clarify the dimensions of the plumbing you like and check with the plan whether it will fit.

As for finishing materials, it is preferable to purchase them immediately for the entire repair cycle, so as not to be distracted later, if suddenly something was not enough. Do not forget about the preparation of the necessary tools.

Stage 3: dismantling of plumbing and cladding.

After everything preliminary work completed, proceed to the beginning of the workflow:

• we take out the sink and bathtub from the room, even if they will not be replaced with new ones. So, you can keep them safe and clean.
• filming old tile, cleaning after it all surfaces: ceiling, walls, floor.
• remove from walls old paint if they were previously painted, as the adhesive solution or a new layer of paint will not adhere well to the surface.

Stage 4: replacement of communications: pipes, electrical wiring.

Very often, in an old house, you should carefully inspect and replace not only the pipes that are in the bathroom itself, but also the main riser, and sometimes interfloor pipes. Why is it worth doing it? Old pipes can leak at any time, and then the new repair will be damaged, and additional investment will be required to eliminate defects.

The next step is the replacement of wires, switches, installation of new sockets in conveniently located places. An important point of this stage is the installation of a ventilation system, it is preferable to make it forced. The construction market offers different types fans for forced ventilation.

Watch the video: Do-it-yourself bathroom renovation, where to start

Stage 5: leveling surfaces.

At this stage, we focus on the condition of the surfaces. Uneven walls will need to be leveled using special plaster mixes. First you will need to putty all defects in the form of cracks, potholes. In rather difficult situations, it will be necessary to apply several leveling layers of plaster.

Stage 6: surface finishing.

After all surfaces are leveled and dried, you can proceed to the finishing work: painting, tiling, coating.

An excellent option for decorating the ceiling is coating with emulsion paint. Moisture will not accumulate on such a surface, moreover, you can easily choose the desired color. A practical solution is to use plastic panels or stretch ceiling.

Stage 7: plumbing installation.

We install plumbing fixtures in their places, having completed all the finishing work. In this case, the entire space will be available for lining, and what is important - the plumbing will not be damaged or dirty.

Stage 8: finishing touches.

We place furniture, accessories: a mirror, hooks, lamps. If necessary, we will replace the door. Previously, this should not be done, since you can scratch, damage the surface of the canvas at the time of entering the plumbing or during its installation.

This is the sequence of repair work in the bathroom, which meets the principles of practicality, rationalization. Moreover, you can do all this workflow yourself, and the result will be a sparkling, impeccable cleanliness, attractive bathroom design.

Also read: quick and inexpensive do-it-yourself home repairs

Now you know where to start repairing the bathroom and how to complete all the stages of work. You can use the services of specialists, but it is much cheaper to do everything yourself. A beautiful bath is the dream of every person, because it is from this room that your morning begins. Watch video and read step by step instructions to learn how to carry out repairs yourself.

One of the most visited rooms in any house or apartment is the bathroom. That is why its repair must be approached with special attention and care. In this room there are the largest temperature and humidity fluctuations, which can negatively affect the overall finish. To get a cozy and functional bathroom, you should select high-quality and reliable building materials. For a rational and proper organization of bathroom renovation, it is necessary to clearly understand where to start restoration work.

Before proceeding with the purchase of materials and performing any actions, it is worth deciding on the type of repair. There are such types of bathroom restoration:

1. Unscheduled repairs - carried out as a result of an unforeseen emergency (flooding by neighbors or a pipe break). At the same time, you can finish with minor cosmetic actions or more global ones with the replacement of communication systems (replacement of pipes for supplying water, sewerage, updating tiles, etc.).
2. The planned repair may also differ in scale and material investments of the owner. Of course, a cosmetic finish will cost much less than a major restoration. In this case, everything depends on the technical condition of the premises and financial possibilities.

In any case, bathroom renovation requires preparation and calculation of all stages of work. To do this, you need to hire a professional estimator who can accurately calculate everything. Only after that you can negotiate with the construction team. But this is not the only option. If you have free time and minimal building knowledge, you can carry out all the restoration work yourself.

It must be understood that the payment for the work of builders is approximately 50% of the price of the building materials used. Accordingly, do-it-yourself bathroom renovation will cost at least one and a half times cheaper. It is necessary to prepare for the repair of a bathroom with all responsibility, since it will require not only a lot of knowledge in the construction industry, but also practical skills.

Preparing for a bathroom renovation begins with a study of the prices of building materials and necessary equipment. This will allow you to get a preliminary cost of all work.

Calculation of prices and costs for bathroom renovation

Almost every owner who plans to renovate a bathroom or bathroom asks a completely logical question - where to start? The best solution is the selection of building materials and budgeting. All this will allow you to find out how much each stage will cost. Building materials for a bathroom or bathroom must be selected with great care, as they must meet many requirements.

Of particular importance are the coefficients of moisture absorption and thermal expansion, since large differences in moisture and temperature are observed in this room. Not the last factor is the porosity of the material, since this affects the sanitary and hygienic safety of the entire room. Accordingly, you should not count on the purchase of very cheap materials, because otherwise you will have to re-repair.

It is rather difficult to select the exact parameters that the materials must meet. In addition, it is almost impossible for a non-specialist to understand the huge assortment. Because of this, it is worth choosing building materials that are specially made for bathrooms or for exterior finish premises. Approximate prices for the necessary components for the repair of the bathroom:

1. Floor tiles of domestic production - from 40 rubles / piece with a size (30x30), foreign collections are more expensive - from 60 rubles / piece. As a rule, European models are distinguished by the best decorative elements.
2. Wall tiles have the same cost as floor tiles.
3. Can be used for finishing porcelain stoneware, its price starts from 50 rubles / piece.
4. As consumables are glue, grout and cross patterns. This is another 50% of the cost of tiles per unit area.
5. Laminate boards - from 300 rubles / piece.
6. Self-leveling floors - from 220 rubles / 10 liters.
7. Hardwood or teak floor - from 500 rubles per square.
8. Polypropylene pipes for cold water- from 24 rubles / meter.
9. Reinforced polypropylene pipes for hot water- from 35 rubles / meter.
10. 50 mm sewer pipes - from 45 rubles.
11. Shut-off valves and fittings account for about 60% of the price of all pipes.

These are indicative prices for the most necessary materials when renovating a bathroom. By comparing the area of ​​the floor, walls, ceiling and the induced cost, you can approximately calculate the total cost of restoration work. When making calculations, the following must be taken into account:

1. The use of cheaper materials can lead to difficulties and delay the work.
2. A reserve of 3-5% should be made for waste and battle. For example, if your area needs 300 pieces of tiles, then it is better to buy 310 or 315 pieces.
3. Similar actions should be done when buying putty, cement, sand, silicone, etc.
4. Depending on the size of the bathroom and the degree of complexity of all restoration work, it will take from 2 weeks to 3 months. This is with the condition of independent work. If you hire a team professional builders things will go much faster.
5. As for plumbing fixtures, their choice depends on the design decision and the material capabilities of the owner.

Adviсe

In addition, experts can give a lot of good advice in this area. So, when hiring a construction team, you should also ask about the price of finishing materials. If they are professionals in their field who have extensive experience in this area, then they will have connections with hardware stores where they have discounts.

Another useful advice When it comes to choosing a heated towel rail, stainless steel products are the best option in terms of price and quality. To really save water and electricity, you need to buy a modern faucet with a motion sensor. It turns on only when hands are raised and delivers water at a pre-set temperature. This is far from the cheapest option, but it allows you to save water consumption up to 50% and electricity up to 40%.

As you know, the bathroom is a warm room with constantly high levels of humidity, which is an ideal breeding ground for bacteria and microorganisms dangerous to human life. Because of this, you should not use structures on the crate, since such niches will sooner or later become a breeding ground for infection.

Based on all the tips and recommendations above, you can choose high-quality building materials at the best price.

Bathroom renovation: where to start. Sequence of work

To spend quality repair in the bathroom for the shortest possible time and at an affordable price, it is worth carrying out all the manipulations in sequence. step by step plan actions:

• The choice of models and the number of plumbing fixtures that you plan to install.

• Creation design idea and color choice.

• Preparation of a purchase budget finishing materials.

• Preliminary preparation of the premises.

• Inspection of the condition of the floor and the choice of options for its repair.

• Floor repair: insulation, screed replacement, waterproofing.

• Laying pipes for water supply and sewerage.

• Electrical wiring.

• Wall and ceiling decoration.

• Floor finishing.

• Wall cladding, grouting, sealing corners.

• Installation ventilation system.

• Installation of plumbing fixtures.

This sequence of work will optimize the entire repair process and understand what needs to be done at a particular stage. We will go over each item in more detail below.

Starting a bathroom renovation

Design and plumbing

This is the very first and milestone in the repair of the bathroom, since the design also depends on the choice of plumbing fixtures. It must be understood that not only the appearance of the room, but also the accuracy of laying all communication systems depends on the model of the sink, toilet or bathroom. For example, a tulip washbasin greatly simplifies the laying of pipes, in parallel with this, it requires the use of perfectly smooth tiles without relief. Otherwise, stains and stains of dirt will remain on the walls. Another option to simplify pipe laying is to install a faucet on the bathtub.

It is impossible to list all the nuances and subtleties. Even in houses of the same type with the same dimensions, different materials can be used, as well as their combination, which, in the end, will bring a special appearance and a difference in costs within 20%. Because of this, it is worth carefully considering the layout and design.

It is also worth understanding that not every idea can be translated into reality in city apartments. For example, to install a mixer built into the wall, you will have to hammer bearing walls which is simply unacceptable.

Bathroom Renovation Materials

Pipes

Today almost no one uses metal constructions, since plastic products are more reliable and affordable. The most optimal option for the bathroom are polypropylene pipes. Sometimes metal-plastic analogies are used, but they are more relevant for the heating system in the house. In addition, polypropylene welds are more reliable than metal-plastic fittings. Because of this, PP pipes can be built into the wall without fear of an accident.

To supply water to the bathroom and create a sewerage system, it is necessary to use pipes made of polypropylene or PVC. Due to this, you can save the budget, simplify the installation process and get really durable structures that require minimal maintenance.

Fittings and fittings for plastic pipes

When creating a pipe system, it is worth using special couplings, fittings for soldering and fastening polypropylene pipes to each other. It is worth noting that there are a huge number of adapters that allow you to combine different materials. Yes, modern plastic pipes can be reliably connected to metal counterparts. When connecting to metal, it is necessary to use shut-off valves, which are soldered into plastic. All this helps to avoid system leakage.

Tile

For the bathroom, the best option for finishing material is tile, as it has excellent characteristics of resistance to humidity and temperature changes. Also unpretentious in care. It is better to use porcelain stoneware as a floor covering. This material is slightly more expensive than conventional tiles and has several advantages. First of all, it is high strength and resistance to stress.

In addition, porcelain stoneware, even with a smooth surface, is not slippery, which significantly reduces the degree of injury.

Bathroom tiles are subject to high demands not only from an aesthetic point of view, but also from a hygienic point of view. At first glance, inconspicuous dirt or specks can become a further breeding ground for bacteria and microbes. Because of this, you should not save on the quality of this building material.

Glue and tools

When starting to lay tiles in the bathroom, you must use a slow drying adhesive - 12-24 hours. This will allow timely elimination of small flaws during self-assembly and improve the quality of the finish coating.

It is also worth choosing a spatula with a tooth depth, which is indicated in the recommendations on the adhesive package. If such information is not available, spatulas with a tooth height of 3-6 mm should be used. You should not use a coarse-toothed trowel, as high adhesive rusts will lead to the formation of cavities under the tile.

During installation, you will also need a diamond drill for laying pipes and a tile cutter. Do not forget about the templates - plastic crosses. For grouting, use a special trowel or an economical option - a piece of electrical cable with a diameter of 5-6 mm. The finishing of the seams is carried out using flannel rags.

The rest of the tool is selected according to standard construction criteria.

Room preparation

How to start preparing a bathroom for renovation. First of all, carry out the dismantling of old plumbing fixtures. The pipes from the supply of cold and hot water are preliminarily disconnected. To avoid problems, shut off the water on the risers.

After that, everything is removed from the bathroom. The result is an empty room with bare walls and floor. The heating system is also turned off and plugs are placed. Next, you need to turn off the power supply to junction box. For lighting, you will have to use portable lamps and extension cords.

After completing all the above manipulations, you can begin to clean the surfaces, starting from the ceiling. If the repair is carried out in the "brezhnevka", then you may be in for a surprise - an insulating box of the room with a GPV, which must be removed. All work should be done very carefully. To avoid the collapse of the ceiling, props are used.

Old wall and floor tiles are removed with a chisel or perforator. Surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned of cement or adhesive residues. The most dusty and unpleasant stage is the removal of the top layer of plaster. To do this, you must use a drill with a metal brush of 80-100 millimeters. If the old finish is loose, it must be removed to brick or concrete.

Where to start renovating the floor in the bathroom

Initially, an audit of the condition of the floor is carried out, which will determine the scope of work. After removing the tiles with a perforator, it is necessary to remove the remains of the cement substrate. If the base is very strong, it can only be removed with a grinder with a diamond wheel.

Inspection of the old screed will allow you to determine whether a complete replacement is necessary or it is enough to make a new fill and alignment. The latter option will save time and money on repairs, but it is possible only if the old substrate is in satisfactory condition. In addition, self-leveling floors in the bathroom with small size are the most correct solution. It must be remembered that the thickness of such a floor must be at least 30 mm.

Bathroom floor waterproofing

You can not use ordinary film in this room. The best option is aquaizol or analogues from polyester. Today it is the most reliable material for the bathroom and bathroom.

When installing a waterproofing layer, the layers are glued together using mastic or welded with a special industrial hair dryer. The insulating layer must be laid on the walls for at least 25 centimeters with folds in the corners. Only after that you can fill the floor and form a new screed.

self-leveling floor

For a self-leveling floor, a two-component composition should be taken: the initial fill and a viscous layer. After that comes the leveling liquid layer.

A new floor screed must be created with modern and high-quality materials. Expanded clay should not be used as a heater, as it is very hygroscopic. Styrofoam concrete is also not suitable for the bathroom. The most optimal option is glass-magnesite plates. They have high strength, which allows them to be mounted directly on the reinforcing mesh.

For a high-quality floor screed in the bathroom, it is necessary to take into account some features:

1. Cement must have a grade of at least 400.
2. It is necessary to use only sifted quartz sand.
3. The ratio of sand to cement is 4:1.
4. The volume of water is equal to the amount of cement.
5. Also, 10% of the total volume of the PVA emulsion is added to the water.
6. The general formation of the screed is carried out by beacons with a layer thickness of at least 40 mm.
7. After leveling, dotirka is carried out with a smooth trowel.

It should be noted that a new cement-sand screed must dry for at least 40 days. Only after the expiration of this period can the repair work be continued.

Where to start laying communications in the bathroom during the repair?

Open pipes in the bathroom significantly worsen the appearance of the room, and chasing the walls to hide them is quite tedious and dusty. If we talk about a block house, then such a procedure is simply impossible, since the reinforcement in the slabs will not make it possible to make the necessary niches. In addition, sewer pipes do not have welded joints and must be accessible for inspection in case of blockages.

Pipe laying

Coming out of the above features, all pipes must be run along the bottom of the room in one bundle and closed with special slopes. In finishing, the slopes covering the pipes can be tiled. In addition, these structures are best made removable for quick access. You will also need small strobes, especially for vertical pipes, which lead to mixers or a boiler.

Replacing the pipeline should start with the sewer system. Drain pipes are assembled quite quickly with the help of rubber seals and sealant. You can lay them out in one day. After that, the polypropylene water supply pipes are soldered. For the heating system and heated towel rail, it is worth using metal-plastic pipes, which bend perfectly and are also settled in niches. As an additional protection, strobes with pipes can be foamed.

Installation of electrical wiring

As mentioned earlier, the bathroom has high humidity, which puts forward special requirements for materials, especially electrical system. The most optimal and reliable option is to use double-insulated wires that are tightened into a protective corrugation. High-quality insulation will create a reliable and safe electrical supply system.

Bathroom renovation: where to start plastering

The process of finishing with plaster should be carried out along the beacons, which will allow you to get perfectly flat surfaces for finishing cladding. To do this, it is necessary to apply two layers: starting and finishing. In this case, you can not save on materials.

It should be noted that the waterproofing apron should not be cut, it must be glued to the wall with tape and covered with a layer of putty. There are no special recommendations and features for finishing; it is carried out, as in other rooms, from ceiling to floor. It is better to apply the plaster mix in portions.

Bathroom ceiling insulation

Even in very warm homes, insulating the ceiling in the bathroom or bathroom is a must, as this will reduce the amount of condensate. As you know, excessive moisture is the primary cause of repair. As for the floor, it is worth mounting a LSU layer on the ceiling, which is attached with mounting glue or silicone. For reliable fastening, props are used, one per meter of area.

Features of filing the ceiling of the bathroom

The ceiling is the most vulnerable spot. This requires a warm and beautiful design, with high resistance to condensation. Because of this, the best option is plastic lining or ceiling laminate. Mounting Features:

1. The laying of the material is carried out using building silicone or mounting adhesive.
2. When mounting each next board, a thin layer of glue is applied to the tongue of the lock. Any spills are removed immediately with a rag.
3. The last boards of the ceiling are laid with a house, and after pressing the middle they snap into place and fall into place.
4. Before the glue dries, rack supports are used.

These are reliable structures, since they are not only glued, but also connected with tongue and groove locks, which makes it possible to form a one-piece shield. It should be noted that the ceiling finish is carried out before the wall cladding. This is necessary so that the entire ceiling structure is supported by the ends of the wall tiles. All this guarantees a tight and reliable design.

Where to start finishing the bathroom floor

The most successful solution for the floor is porcelain tiles. It is glued end-to-end, without seams. Any spilled adhesive should be cleaned up immediately. A layer of glue is applied in longitudinal strokes with a spatula. For a 30x30 tile, the consumption should be 0.25-0.35 sq.m.

Laying starts from the door so that the cut parts are hidden under the bathtub or the slope of the pipes. The last row with cut tiles should be laid after the main part has dried, so as not to lose the accuracy of the entire coating.

Each laid tile must be tapped with a rubber mallet. Thus, they sit well on the glue and move to the free edge. To avoid voids, glue rusts are made shallow and parallel.

Another option for the bathroom is a wooden floor. Such designs are quite warm, and it is even pleasant to step on it with bare feet. Due to the elasticity of the material, it can withstand baths with great weight, which gives another plus in the use of wood. Nevertheless, it is necessary to understand that the installation of such a floor requires more material costs and time.

The best option for the bathroom is larch or teak. Initially, the material is impregnated with PVA emulsion, and acrylic varnish is used as a finish. All this guarantees durability and quality of a design. For installation, grooved materials are used, which are laid similar to the ceiling, and leave an indent of 25 millimeters from the walls. The gap near the wall will allow the wood to move freely when it swells. Before installing the skirting boards, the gap can be filled with polyurethane foam.

Where to start cladding bathroom walls

The best material in terms of price and quality for the bathroom is tile. Also recently, plastic paneling has gained popularity. It is an inexpensive and hygienic material.

When installing wall tiles, the seams are cut; for this, template crosses are used when shrinking onto the glue. The technology is practically no different from the installation of floor tiles. In the tiles through which pipes and electric wires will pass, corresponding holes are made in advance with a diamond crown.

After the glue has hardened, the corners of the tiles are sealed with silicone. After applying the sealant, a piece of cable is applied, pressed and immediately removed. Due to this, silicone perfectly penetrates into the corner, and the seam itself receives a smooth and concave surface. Any spills should be removed immediately with a rag soaked in vinegar.

On the planes, it is also necessary to process the seams with a special compound. At the same time, the crosses are taken out, and the seams are filled with material. To avoid irregularities and errors, you should use a special tool or the same cable.

Installation of electrical, plumbing and ventilation in the bathroom

Installation of plumbing fixtures involves the following steps:

1. Installation of a sink, bathtub or shower.
2. Installation of mixers.
3. Connection of water heaters (if necessary).
4. Replacement of meters for cold and hot water.

As for the installation of the ventilation system, quite often the box removed before repair can be reused. Cleaning and painting will restore the original look. To increase the efficiency of the system, it is worth installing a flapper valve that will not allow cold air to enter the room in winter. If you have free money, you can install more modern systems ventilation, which abound in hardware stores.

The bathroom should have a minimum number of electrical appliances, as high humidity can disrupt their functionality or even threaten the health of the host. The fixed set includes ceiling lamp, exhaust fan. Of course, in reality, each owner installs more devices, the main thing is that they have excellent protection against moisture.

As for the washing machine, it does not apply to stationary appliances, and its installation is carried out in conjunction with the bathroom.

Conclusion

Doing your own bathroom remodeling can save you a lot of money. But in parallel with this, unprofessional actions lead to errors in the implementation of certain stages. Because of this, it must be said that the options for restoration work depend on the owner himself and his financial capabilities. The main thing is that you already know where to start renovating the bathroom.

Are you thinking about renovating your bathroom with your own hands? This is not surprising, since the implementation of the entire repair process on your own will be much cheaper. On average, the amount of the possible fee is calculated from half the cost of all necessary materials.

But, of course, you should not think that everything will be simple: you will need to calculate all possible costs, have knowledge and sufficiently high skills, if not in repair, then at least in handling tools. If you do not have the above, then it would be better for you to contact the specialists. Think and weigh your decision carefully. Read this article about do-it-yourself bathroom renovation with a photo and then finally decide on your decision. In it, we will dwell in sufficient detail on the production of actions in their chronological order indicating the materials and the approximate cost of the costs of the necessary materials.

To carry out a bathroom renovation with your own hands, you will have the following:

• Choose plumbing, determine its quantity and nomenclature;
• Develop a bathroom design and choose the color you need:
• Calculate and purchase the necessary finishing materials;
• Prepare the room in which the repair will be carried out;
• Assess the current condition of the bathroom floor. Decide on the method of its repair and purchase materials for the work;
• Repair floor. This item will include:
• its waterproofing - that is, measures to make the floor waterproof.
• screed replacement, under the screed rises the layer created to level the floor, and on which the flooring is usually installed.
• floor insulation;
• Pipeline laying;
• Work with electrical wiring;
• Plastering of the ceiling and walls;
• Wall cladding, grouting and sealing corners;
• flooring;
• Installation of a ventilation system.
• Installation of plumbing of your choice.

The time that you spend on do-it-yourself bathroom renovation is counted from 2 weeks, in case of replacing the bathroom and toilet. It will take at least 2 months to replace the floor screed. Let's go directly to the points of the specified plan:

Selection of plumbing

It is difficult to talk about specific tips here, since everything will depend on your choice of brand and manufacturer. We only mention that when repairing, you should think about what to do with the old bathroom. If it is intact, then below, when considering the preparation of the premises, ways to improve it will be indicated.

Design stage

This stage is directly related to the choice of plumbing, as it will affect the complexity and cost of the repair itself. So, the characteristic of the tiled wall covering depends on the shape of the washbasin. It will be impossible to specify all the details; this is a topic for a separate article. Keep in mind that when building a house, bathtubs are made out the same way with the same materials from the same supplier, respectively, the cost of repairs can reach up to 1/5 of the cost of housing. AT ordinary house it makes no sense to think about a mixer built into the wall, since such an opportunity is laid even during construction, and breaking the wall is an unacceptable option.

Do not use normal commercial wood and simple steel parts. Such materials absorb moisture or are prone to corrosion, so using them in a place with high humidity does not justify itself. For the same reasons, installing sockets and switches in the bathroom is life-threatening. Of course, there are ways to make them, meeting a number of formal requirements, but we will not consider them here. If your apartment is tight on space, consider installing a walk-in shower. This will help free up some space in which you can install something more necessary. Think and choose a design that you like.

estimate

It makes no sense to explain why it is necessary to evaluate the equipment needed for repair. Remember that it is wrong to be guided by a lower price when choosing materials for do-it-yourself bathroom renovation. There are a number of parameters that are essential, but which are quite difficult to figure out without special knowledge. These are the coefficients of moisture absorption, thermal expansion and porosity of the material. Since the bathroom is a place with a large variation in temperature and high humidity, which affects both the strength of materials and the sanitary and hygienic situation in the home, it will be wrong to proceed from the principle of cheapness.

Some parameters, you most likely will not find in the description of the material, so you should select materials that are directly intended for use in the bathroom. The materials used for outdoor construction may also be suitable, since the conditions of interest to us are similar.

• The price of a tile will be from 40 to 60 rubles per piece, depending on the country of origin. The quality of tiles of domestic and European manufacturers on average do not differ from each other, but European samples usually have best design. The situation for floor tiles and wall tiles is the same, the difference is only in size. Porcelain tiles will cost more, from 50 rubles apiece, however, it is recommended to use it for flooring. Unlike ordinary ceramic tiles, they have a non-slip surface and greater durability. Considering the rather high traumatism of bathrooms in medical statistics, this is an important circumstance. In the store, you should pay attention to the condition of the surface of the tile. The presence of damage on it will lead to the appearance of uncleaned dirt. In order to make sure the integrity of the tile you choose, lean it against your face and look at it along the light source. Another factor is the aspect ratio. If the tiles are of different sizes, and this is quite possible, then during installation, the surface will look repulsive, and even if it is not installed, you will have to spend time returning the goods to the seller. To check, take a few pairs and attach the edges to each other and take a closer look. The difference in size should not exceed a millimeter. Then test the edges, they should be even.
• Tile adhesive. Given that the installation of tiles will be carried out by you yourself - the best choice there will be a slowly drying glue, from half a day to a day. This will allow you to correct all possible mistakes made and give you the opportunity to work for your own pleasure. The spatula should be selected specifically for the glue, such information is contained on the package. If for some reason the package does not contain information about the pitch and depth of the teeth, and the glue itself has proven itself, then choose a shallow depth of 3 to 6 millimeters. Using a spatula with large teeth will likely lead to the appearance of cavities under the tiles.
• Templates for laying tiles. It is best to take plastic crosses, because they are easier to work with.
• Tile grout. It is not necessary to purchase, since a piece of cable 5-6 millimeters in diameter may be suitable for grouting.
• Glass-magnesite sheet from 250 rubles per 1 sheet.
• Laminate from 300 rubles per board.
• Bulk floor. For the bathroom, it is preferable to use two components, this is the initial viscous filling, then comes the liquid one, for leveling. The approximate price is from 220 rubles per 10 liters, the same with the effect of insulation - from 640 rubles per square meter.
• Teak or larch floor. If you decide to make a wooden rather than a tile floor. It will cost more, but it looks and feels better. Price from 500 rubles per square meter.
• Pipes. The best option is polypropylene pipes: for cold water (PPN) from 24 rubles per square meter, for hot (PPR) from 35 rubles. The choice is due to the fact that working with steel pipes is difficult, metal-plastic tends to flow in fittings over time, while polypropylene can be welded and hidden in the wall. Sewer pipes go from 45 rubles. Fittings fall into the same category. Solid plastic fittings are most preferred as this will avoid potential leaks. The transition to metal makes sense when connecting pipes to the boiler. Shut-off valves must be spherical and soldered into plastic. The cost of fittings and fittings will be 60% of the price of pipes. When buying, measure the outer diameter of the pipe with a caliper. To work with pipes, diamond drills are required, if the sizes do not match, you will have to buy more, and such drills are quite expensive.
• PVA emulsion - from 240 rubles for a 5-liter package.
• Plumbing. It all depends on your choice, let's just not skimp on quality - plumbing should serve for a long time and in good faith. When considering options for a heated towel rail, it is recommended to take a stainless steel heated towel rail. Other options are either of poor quality or overpriced. When choosing a faucet, consider purchasing a faucet with an infrared sensor that automatically turns on the water when you bring your hands up with a pre-set temperature. You've probably seen this at airports. The mixer, of course, is not the cheapest, but it will allow you to cut your water costs by half, and heating energy by 40-45%.

Prices are approximate and based on the current market value. Nevertheless, you can somehow navigate at such prices and, taking into account the area, calculate the repair of the bathroom with your own hands. You will not need all of the above directly when performing work, some of the options presented are alternatives, their choice will be discussed in more detail below.

We repeat once again: you should not be guided by cheapness when choosing materials, their use will only lead to more complicated work. When purchasing materials, consider possible marriage and calculation errors: there is almost always a need for some stock. So, with tiles it is recommended to have 3-5% of the excess amount. When renovating a small bathroom, you will do a little more - 5-7%. For other materials, add 35-40%.

Now let's get straight to work.

So, as already mentioned: first of all, the question is in the old bathroom. Cast iron bath can be upgraded with acrylic or epoxy. Installing a new cast iron bath will not give any advantage in terms of quality and service life, and its dismantling and installation of a new bath is quite time consuming. For a tin bath, in the absence of enamel chips or other serious damage, an acrylic liner can be used. If the tin bath is in poor condition, do not hesitate and choose a new one. To update the bathroom, you do not need special skills. The difference between acrylic and epoxy is price and labor intensity, the latter being cheaper but somewhat more difficult to work with. It is impossible to create an insert on your own - it is made at the factory, where you will have to order it, the installation technology is as follows:

• thoroughly clean and degrease the bath;
• insert the liner and check the correct fit drain holes;
• recheck and apply glue to the inside of the tub.

The method is quite expensive, but still cheaper than a new bath.

Turn off the water. Disconnect the cold water supply from the cistern. If you are not going to move out for the duration of the repair, then it makes sense to run water to the kitchen through a temporary pipeline. Even using an ordinary hose will do, the main thing is not to forget to turn off the water for a period of absence or at night. The quality, as you understand, of such a system is far from ideal. But otherwise, you will have to do without water for about 10 days, which is an even worse prospect.

Proceed to dismantle everything in the bathroom. Only the walls should remain. Do not touch the sewer system at this stage yet, muffle the heating for the heated towel rail with screw plugs. Next, turn off the power in the bathroom.

Now you can start cleaning the surfaces of the bathroom. This part of the work is associated with garbage and dust, work with glasses, a respirator and, if you don’t want to clean the whole apartment later, with a closed door or a film in the opening.

Work starts from the ceiling. For old tiles use a hammer drill with a chisel for concrete. If cement mortar was used to fasten it, then you will have to remove it completely. Be careful when working with the floor! If your old screed is in good condition, then the puncher can damage it when cleaning the cement substrate, and this is unnecessary trouble for you. If there is reason to save the old screed, then use a grinder with a diamond cup. The work will be done more accurately and will reduce the cost of overhauling floors.

For the top layer of plaster and old paint, a drill with a 80-100 mm round metal brush is used. In old houses, the plaster is often fragile, this must be removed to the ground, whether it be brick or concrete. It is enough to level a solid one with a drill using a cleaning brush and measuring the level. When working with plaster over electrical wiring in the bathroom, you need a hammer drill with a chisel. Remove the wires. Just in case, tap the walls and try to drill them: in a number of houses of the Brezhnev era, gypsum-fiber boards were used for insulation. If you find something like this, you will have to dismantle them. Work will increase, but their replacement is necessary. Be careful when working with the ceiling, it can come to collapse. Take care of the supports.

Cleaning completed, old tiles removed. Time to mop the floors. After wet cleaning, you can begin to inspect the installed screed. The presence of at least one crack will lead to the need to replace it, which means a major overhaul of the floor in the bathroom. Of course, if the damage is small, then this can be avoided by using a self-leveling floor layer. But more on that later. First of all, consider the need to remove the old screed and proceed with the waterproofing of the floor.

In order to waterproof the floor, there are few options: it is aquaizol or its polyester analogue. Ordinary film for the bathroom is not applicable, moisture will seep in one way or another, while Aquaizol will retain water at any temperature. The insulation should be led to the wall at least a quarter meter (25 cm) based on weight. 4000 liters of water for 10 square meters is the tensile strength of the coating. Folds at the corners should not have cuts. The joints of the waterproofing layer are glued with mastic or welded with industrial hair dryer. Before doing such welding, practice, it's not easy.

Having finished with the insulation, proceed with the installation of a new screed. In assessing the possible costs, already mentioned desired material. This is a glass-magnesite plate. Its strength will allow you to lay the reinforcing mesh and install beacons without delay. There are no alternatives, foam concrete and foam concrete are too fragile, and expanded clay absorbs water. This is an extremely long stage, the new screed must stand for 40 days before you can continue work. There are special requirements for the screed cement mortar:

• brand of cement from the 400th; sand must be quartz;
• sand and cement are related to each other in a ratio of 4: 1;
• the volume of water must be equal to the volume of cement;
• to water you need to add PVA emulsion in the amount of 1/10 of the volume of water.

The formation of the screed is carried out along the markers in a layer of 4-5 cm. Having leveled the formed surface, bring it to smoothness. A tiled floor requires a level base surface for its flooring.

Let's move on to replacing the pipeline. You should start with sewer pipes, since it is assembled quite quickly on seals with sealant, one day is enough. Welded joints are not made on sewer pipes. After that, you can proceed with peace of mind to soldering water pipes.

How to lay them? It’s not worth doing it in the open, it will bring aesthetic pleasure to few people, making strobes, if you don’t know the concept, is a groove in the wall laid to be able to remove the pipe, a tedious and time-consuming task, and in the case of block houses, fittings cannot be violate, and she herself will not allow a strobe to be made. Nevertheless, there is a solution: the pipes can be run parallel to the floor, and then a galvanized slope can be made on them. Next, with the help of silicone on the completed slope, glue the facing tiles in the same color to the future look of the bathroom.

The slope is also glued with silicone to the floor and ceiling, and can be completed even after the work is completed. If necessary, silicone can be cut with a mounting knife. With a standard bathroom layout, the length of the slope will be approximately a meter. You still can’t do without strobes, but this is only for vertically installed pipes: for a faucet in the bathroom, if there is one in your bathroom, for a faucet in the washbasin, and a couple more if the boiler is installed in the bathroom. Pipes should be foamed in the strobes, this will serve as additional protection against fogging and heat loss. The process of installing polypropylene pipes is very simple, the main advantage is that after thirty minutes from the end of the welding of the last connection, you can use your piping system. uh

Remember, butt joints are not allowed. Use fittings and couplings to connect them.

For welding joints, you will need: a machine for socket welding of pipes made of polypropylene; nozzles for used pipes; pipe cutter; shaver, beveler. Metal-plastic is well suited for a heated towel rail. Thanks to its flexibility, the lower fittings will be hidden under the slope, and the position of the upper ones will not change.

It is worth laying it with a double-insulated wire tightened into a corrugation. The most commonly used is plastic, the price is low, however, if you are planning to replace the wiring throughout the house, use metal, the wiring will be shielded.

Before starting plastering work, glue the protruding waterproofing to the wall with construction tape; as already mentioned, it cannot be cut off. The bathroom is a cramped room, so we recommend using not a trowel, but half a rubber ball to apply plaster. It can be used for all kinds of work with alabaster, plaster or hardening compounds. It will be easier to work that way.

The plaster itself must necessarily be carried out along the lighthouses - a flat surface is required for subsequent wall cladding. It is best to use beacon profiles, which are easy to get in any hardware store. Making lighthouses yourself is not worth it, you will only waste your time and hardly be able to achieve a flat surface. The plastering sequence is normal, to the floor from the ceiling. Apply two layers - for the conditions of the bathroom with its fluctuations in humidity and temperature, this form will be the strongest.

Ceiling insulation is required not to comply with the temperature regime, but to prevent future problems that will certainly arise if condensation is not stopped. The best option would be to use a glass-magnesite sheet, unlike the floor, bonded to the surface of the LSU ceiling will be silicone or mounting adhesive. At the time of work, use the slats as supports, somewhere around 1-2 per meter of ceiling. Do not remove them until the glue has dried.

Having finished with the insulation, we move on to glossing, although this gloss carries a functional value like condensate. good option is a material such as plastic lining or laminate. Don't worry about the reliability of the material. Moisture-resistant adhesive, even if it peels off in part of the ceiling, will not cause collapse - since the boards are interconnected, forming a single integral structure. Upon completion of work with the ceiling, you will proceed to the wall cladding. The laid tiles will serve as a support for the laminate.

When preparing the material, follow these points:

1. processing the wrong side of the PVA material with an emulsion;
2. laying itself is carried out using mounting glue or building silicone;
3. the crest of the tongue, it is understood as the protrusions due to which the boards are connected, as well as the method of such a connection itself, a thin layer of glue is applied, its drips must be immediately removed.

Suitable for silicone table vinegar, for adhesive solvent. Please note - the last two boards of the laminate should be laid together, fold them into a house and insert, pressing the joint until it clicks into place. Do not forget about the props before the glue hardens.

Corners should be sealed with silicone to prevent moisture from penetrating under the ceiling sheathing. When making holes for wiring, do not make them at the junction of laminate boards. I think you understand why. When finished with the ceiling sheathing, foam the hole or fill it with silicone.

Of course, there are other options as well. But independent production stretch ceilings is often unjustified, and we will not describe its methods here. If you wish to do so, please review the selection criteria. Possible and rack ceiling- also a very common option, but its manufacture is the topic of a separate article.

For wall cladding, tiles are usually used. Porcelain stoneware has similar properties, but is more expensive, while the advantages that were mentioned when choosing floor tiles do not matter for walls. Covering the walls of the bathroom with plastic panels is spreading, it is quite cheap and meets the rules of hygiene, but in this article we will not consider how to work with such material.

When laying tiles on the walls, the cutting of the seams should be observed. For this, crosses are used, inserted between the tiles on the glue and immediately removed, as described above. The application of glue is carried out with longitudinal strokes of a spatula, with an average tile size of 30 by 30 centimeters - 0.25-0.35 square meters each. There are no voids under the tiles, so apply glue so that the rustications are parallel to each other and not too deep. Each tile you install should be tapped side by side with a rubber mallet from the previous tile to the free edge. On those tiles that will fall on the outlets of the wiring pipes, you need to pre-drill holes with a diamond crown. Once the glue has set, seal the corners with silicone. The method is simple - a thin plastic film is applied to the silicone, then a piece of electrical cable is applied.

Apply pressure and then remove the silicone streaks with vinegar. A smooth concave surface should form. If desired, the corner seam can also be covered with a decorative overlay due to the same silicone. On the plane, the cutting of the seams is carried out with a special composition, which is cheaper than silicone. The cross is removed, the remaining seam is filled and pressed down with a cable - the film is optional in this procedure - the streaks are removed. Do not cut the seams with your finger - irregularities that are not visible to the eye will appear inside the seam, in which dirt tends to accumulate. The technology for laying wall and floor tiles does not differ in itself, a small feature for the floor will be discussed in the next section.

Please note that if you use a mixer with decorative caps, then you should buy a crown with a larger diameter than pipes. Otherwise, you will have to measure out the places for the holes, which requires jewelry work.

For the floor, there are two options for tiles - the reasons why porcelain stoneware is better than tiles or wooden floors have already been explained.

In the case of a wooden floor, the procedure will cost more, but the result is more pleasant. The boards should be selected tongue-and-groove, the laying procedure will be similar to the ceiling, but leaving an indent from the wall of 2-2.5 centimeters. This space is designed for the swelling of the boards. Do not leave cavities, fill the gaps with polyurethane foam before installing the skirting board. A wooden floor coated with PVA emulsion and liquid acrylic varnish will last a very long time.

For tiles, installation should be done from the door, so that the cut tiles are under the slope or in the bathroom, where they will not be visible. This last row of cut slabs is laid last after the glue has set under the other slabs so as not to knock down the work already done. The only difference from laying on the wall is the absence of seams - the tiles fit together.

First of all, inspect the box, removed in preparation for repair. Often, after cleaning and repainting, they are suitable for further use. Just install it back. It would be better if you additionally install a flapper valve in it to avoid cold air flows in winter. It is recommended to install a fan for the ventilation system, this will ensure better air circulation in the apartment, and prevent the appearance of fungus on the walls.

It has no fundamental features. Often, for new products, you can even find instructions for the sequence of actions for its installation. Your actions include installing a bathtub (it will not be possible to carry it out on your own, without an assistant) or a shower cabin, as well as a sink. Then there are mixers, then a water meter. If you wish, you can connect a water heater to your bathroom.

In the bathroom, it is permissible to mount such stationary electrical appliances as an exhaust fan, the cord must be three-core, have a protective conductor and a Euro plug with a sealed entry into the housing, and a ceiling lamp that requires a waterproof design. Washing machine- a topic for a separate discussion, since it does not apply to stationary devices.

All were dismantled necessary steps for the production of repairs in the bathroom with their own hands. Watch the video, where the bathroom renovation procedure is described step by step. We did not mention bathrooms combined with a toilet due to the numerous features of the work and about twice the laboriousness of repairing two separate rooms, this topic needs to be discussed separately. As you can see, the procedure is time consuming, and if you are unsure of your skills, then it is better not to take it.

It is better to entrust this time-consuming and rather long procedure to specialists. They definitely know how to do things right. But you should still be familiar with all aspects of a bathroom renovation, for a higher chance of completing the entire renovation process successfully and without complications.

At least after reading this article, you will be able to control the work of the performers to whom you decide to entrust the repair in the bathroom. On the other hand, if you are sure of success, go ahead! Repair costs will be significantly reduced. For a more successful do-it-yourself bathroom renovation, we recommend that you watch a video on this procedure.

A bathroom can be elegantly refurbished, even with the simplest building materials. It is not necessary to purchase elite porcelain stoneware and lay out walls with it up to the ceiling, order stretch ceiling, to spend money on arranging underfloor heating with marble, it is enough to have a desire to do repairs, the ability to handle tools and a small fraction of good taste.

Under the word "budget" in the article, the options for finishing with the most affordable materials will be considered:

• paint and varnish;
• PVC panels;
• wallpaper.

In addition, the secret of creating an interior in style will be revealed and it will be proved that brick as a finishing material in the bathroom is not inferior to other materials. After all, "budget repairs" can also be stylish.

DIY wall painting

Wall painting is considered one of the easiest and least expensive ways to finish. It is important to choose the right paint and prepare the surface of the walls.

Advice! Design your bathroom. It is not recommended to cover absolutely all surfaces with paint, it is advisable to close the areas near the bathtub and sink with moisture-resistant panels or finish with an apron made of inexpensive ceramic tiles.

Step 1. Choosing a paint for the bathroom

Bathroom paint should have antibacterial properties and be moisture resistant. Otherwise, the appearance of fungus and peeling of the coating cannot be avoided.

Due to their low cost and excellent performance, latex, silicone, and acrylic paints are most widely used. At the same time, water-based mixtures do not have an unpleasant pungent odor, and silicone paints can act as a hydrobarrier.

Traditional oil paints deprived of such dignity, and also quickly covered with cracks, so it is better to immediately refuse this option.

When choosing shades, remember that small bathrooms are inappropriate to be painted in dark tones, since visually this will further reduce the space. Do not overdo it with the number of bright spots or complex patterns and their number so that the interior does not look vulgar. Soft pastel colors will visually expand the room and fill it with light.

Please note that paints can be matte, glossy and semi-gloss. Of this variety, it is matte enamels that hide small defects on the walls best of all, while drops and streaks are clearly visible on glossy surfaces. However, if you can't make a choice, consider combining glossy and matte surfaces. This technique will make the bathroom modern and stylish without significant costs.

Step 2. Preparing the walls for painting

Do not forget to take out all the furniture from the bathroom, remove the mirrors, seal the faucets with masking tape, and cover the plumbing with film or newspapers, because preparing the walls for painting is the dirtiest and most time-consuming step.

You should not apply new layers of paint over the old peeling, nothing good will come of it. If you have a drill in your arsenal, get a couple of sanding attachments for it and clean off the old paintwork from the walls. Remember safety precautions.

No drill? Use paint strippers, a scraper, and a spatula. The method is effective, but it is better to work in a respirator and gloves made of thick rubber.

You can remove the paint by thermal methods, for example, using a burner or a building hair dryer. Heat the wall section and scrape off the peeled coating with a narrow spatula.

When all the old paint is removed from the walls, it is necessary to repair cracks and potholes, knock down the ledges.

Step 3. Prepare materials and tools

Prepare paint and tools, following manufacturer's instructions. To apply paint, you will need a roller, brushes, if you have an airbrush - great. Before purchasing, measure the area of ​​​​the surfaces to be coated, adjust the amount of material, taking into account the volume. For high-quality painting, it is better to apply two layers, keep this in mind at the time of purchase.

Step 4. Preparing the workplace

Free up the workplace near the walls from unnecessary items, if you are not going to redo the floor coverings, then cover them with film or paper. Carefully protect the tub and sink from dirt.

Start work from the most inconspicuous corner, in this place you can learn in practice the properties of the paint and, if necessary, dilute it to the optimum consistency. We recommend that you paint the walls with a roller, and use a brush to treat only hard-to-reach areas, corners and borders of joints of various colors. Panels in the bathroom are still in vogue, if you plan to make them, then mark the height on the wall, draw a horizontal line.

Step 5. Start staining

Apply a deep penetration primer to the wall. It will not only improve the appearance, but also increase the strength of the coating, reduce the likelihood of paint peeling.

Apply a second coat of primer on top of the first and wait 24 hours

Pour a portion of paint into a special plastic tray for rollers. Dip a roller into it, rotate it several times, remove excess paint on a horizontal platform.

Practical advice. To minimize the chance of paint spilling onto the floor, rotate the roller before blowing it out of the tray.

Step 6. Painting technology

Start painting from top to bottom, this method reduces the likelihood of streaks, they are immediately smeared, the roller “rolls” on them. Paint carefully, do not allow gaps. Don't be upset if the first layer looks ugly, this is expected. The fact is that on the wall there are areas with old and new plaster, the remains of an unremoved coating, etc. All of them absorb paint in different ways, which is displayed on the outside. The second layer will fix all problems, the finish will be monophonic.

paint small areas, difficult places immediately correct with a brush. The paint should smooth out the lint marks on its own. If this does not happen, add a solvent to it. Pay attention so that he is conscientious, read the instructions for use. If in doubt - test the solvent for compatibility with a small amount of material, if the paint has curled - change the solvent.

It is desirable to apply the second layer, not completely dried up first, so the coefficient of adhesion between them increases. Checking the readiness of the surface is simple - run your fingertips over it, they should not get dirty, but only “creak” a little.

If you are making a multi-colored panel, then you need to paint the surface in the second color only after applying two layers of the first. In this case, start working from the top of the wall, the panel is finished last. So you insure against paint getting on already finished plots. Apply masking tape along the border line. Make sure that the paint does not flow under it, paint only with a brush, the direction of movement is in the direction opposite to the adhesive tape. Never stick adhesive tape on paint that is not completely dry, this is very important. If you stick it on a freshly painted surface, then during removal, with a high probability, part of the paint will also be removed with it, you will have to redo everything.

Wall decoration with PVC panels

The cost is somewhat more expensive than the first method, but in terms of design indicators it is much better. Yes, and the preparatory work is greatly facilitated, there is no need to remove old coatings, level the walls and close up gaps on them. The crate under the panels can be made of wooden slats or special plastic profiles with clips. We recommend using the second option. The cost of plastic additional elements has almost no effect on the price of repairs, and the work is greatly simplified. In addition, the plastic profile is not afraid of moisture, which is very important for bathrooms. Wooden slats need to be impregnated with antiseptics - an additional loss of time.

Calculate the number of panels needed, make a margin of 5-10%. If there is little experience, but the bathroom has a lot engineering communications, to close which you need to trim the panels, then take a margin of 10%. At the same time, estimate the number of starting profiles, external and internal corners. They are sold in a standard dyne, they cost a penny, there is no need to save.

Step 1. Mounting the crate

The panels are arranged vertically, the crate must be done horizontally. The distance between the planks is 50–60 cm. Make markings on the wall, make sure that the lines are parallel. The crate is fixed with dowels, drill holes with a drill with a perforator, use drills with victorious soldering. To prevent the floor from getting dirty with building dust, cover the place near the wall with film or paper. As soon as all the holes are made - immediately remove it. Do not leave cleaning for later, practice shows that no matter how carefully you work, the garbage will surely spread throughout the bathroom.

Make holes a few centimeters deeper than the length of the plastic part of the dowels, otherwise you will not be able to insert them all the way, dust will interfere. First, drill two extreme holes, attach the profile, then fix it in several more places. The horizontal distance between the dowels is 60–70 cm.

How to fix elements in the same plane?

1. Check the condition of the wall with a plumb line, pay special attention to the attachment points of plastic profiles or rails.
2. Fix the two extreme elements under the level, re-check their position. If there are large recesses at the place where the profiles are attached, then use linings made of various materials. The dowels must attract the profile over the entire plane; there cannot be a gap between it and the wall at the attachment point.
3. Pull the ropes between them, two are enough at the ends of the profiles or rails.
4. Install all other profiles under the rope, with its help control the position of the rails.

Step 2. Installing plastic panels

Measure the wall in at least three places. If they have a spread of no more than a centimeter, then the work is noticeably simplified - all panels can be cut to size at the same time. To do this, you need to find out the shortest, cut all the rest along it. Stack the panels in a stack of 5-10 pieces. cut off on a flat plane and grinder with a disk for metal. A discrepancy of up to one centimeter will be hidden by the ceiling and floor profile. It is installed at the top between the wall and the flow and at the bottom at the junction of the wall and the floor. Put plastic corners on the sides.

Professionals finish the walls without corners, very accurately cut the panels at an angle of 45 °. But for this, in addition to great practical experience, special tools are needed. They are expensive, it is not economically feasible to buy only for finishing one bathtub.

Place the first panel, check its position. Everything is fine - fix it with clips. If you have wooden slats, then fasten with staples with a stapler. Both options provide sufficient security for fixing the panels. The first is mounted - install the second, press it against the first until a characteristic click. It indicates that the elements are connected by a lock. According to this algorithm, continue to work until the last plastic panel remains. Insert the ends immediately into the corners.

Take the exact dimensions of the last panel, cut it along. You can cut with a mounting knife or a grinder. If you use a knife, then the operation must be done in two stages. First - cut upper part and transverse stiffeners. Second - bend the panel, at the bend on the second side, completely cut off the desired part with a mounting knife.

Finish the rest of the walls in the same way. Practice shows that it is better to make a place near the bathtub from ceramic tiles. It is possible not in the entire wall, but only an apron. The main thing is to close the area, which constantly comes across water during the adoption of water procedures.

Video - Installation of PVC plastic panels in the bathroom

Video - Finishing the walls in the bathroom in 1 day with plastic panels. Inexpensive do-it-yourself bathroom renovation

Wall papering

For wallpapering, you can use only waterproof types. This method of finishing has a number of undeniable advantages.

1. Low cost makes it possible to have an exclusive and reliable coverage with small material losses.
2. High technology. Among all possible ways wall decoration in the bathroom wallpapering is the easiest. The work is carried out within a few hours, the room can be used for its intended purpose the very next day.
3. It is possible to frequently change the design of the premises. In some cases, re-pasting can be performed without removing the old one - the repair time is significantly reduced, and the amount of construction debris is minimized.

Disadvantage - in terms of physical strength, wallpaper is inferior traditional materials. But, if you behave carefully and avoid mechanical damage, then the period is calculated for many years. In addition, defects on the wallpaper are easily eliminated, after pasting there will always be a small amount of materials left. Don't throw it away, keep it "just in case" for repairs.

What wallpaper to choose for pasting the bathroom

It goes without saying that only waterproof. During the purchase, pay attention to physical strength, and it depends on the material of manufacture.

wallpaper type	Brief performance indicators
	The most modern, have high mechanical strength, can have a long direct contact with water. Available in a wide range of colors, they can be plain or with various patterns and ornaments, with a structured or smooth front surface. Disadvantages - relatively high price, the need to use special glue.
	The cheaper segment is inferior to vinyl in terms of performance. It is recommended to use on wall areas that are not exposed to water splashes.
	They are made from a special polymer film, have a huge amount of design solutions. Disadvantages - relatively high price and complexity of finishing. In addition, they can only be used on perfectly flat surfaces.

How to glue the wallpaper correctly so that later you do not have to constantly re-glue the peeled off areas?

Step 1. Surface preparation

The most important moment of the production of works, of course, not counting right choice wallpaper. Wall linearity parameters affect not only the appearance of the wall, which is very important, of course. On an uneven wall, it is even theoretically impossible to glue waterproof wallpaper. And this means that there will definitely be air pockets and other places where the wallpaper is not glued. During the use of the bathroom, these areas constantly increase in size, this continues until the peeling becomes noticeable. Repair will be required, it is quite difficult to perfectly align the wallpaper after repair, and in some cases it is impossible. What are the requirements for the wall surface?

Surfaces must be primed in two layers, this increases the reliability of adhesion and serves as additional protection against moisture penetration.

Calculate the surface area, make a small margin. Each roll of wallpaper is labeled with length, width and total area. Use this information when purchasing materials. Do the same when choosing glue.

Step 2. Algorithm for sticking vinyl wallpaper

Measure the height and width of the wall, cut right amount stripes. Stripes, depending on the pattern, can be applied end-to-end or overlap. Cut off with a small margin in length, it will then be removed with a knife, an uneven cut will be buried by ceiling and floor plinths.

Practical advice. The most difficult thing to glue wallpaper in the corners of the room. The fact is that they can have slopes, and this has a negative impact on quality. To prevent such consequences, never make junctions of strips at the corners, try to have their middle in these places.

1. Glue the strip smeared with glue to one wall of the corner, align it strictly vertically.
2. Carefully bend the wallpaper, but not all the way into the corner, lightly glue the strip to the second wall.
3. Slowly begin to bend the wallpaper towards the corner, while constantly monitoring the displacement of the second edge, it should always be in a vertical position. The corner of the wall is uneven - not a problem, let air pockets remain in some places, the main thing is that the edge of the wallpaper on the second wall is vertical.

If you do not follow this nuance, then on the entire adjacent wall the wallpaper strips will be slanted, and this is a big marriage.

For spreading with glue, you will need a large room, the bathroom, as a rule, does not have such dimensions. Decide where exactly you will prepare the wallpaper. Take measures to prevent contamination of floor coverings, do not allow glue to get on the front surface. When pasting walls with wallpaper, accuracy is one of the important conditions for high-quality work.

Carefully squeeze the air out from under the wallpaper. You can use rubber spatulas or rollers. But it is best to do the work with clean, dry hands. So you will feel the bumps and be able to eliminate them in a timely manner. It happens that the air pocket is discovered late, several strips of wallpaper have already been pasted. It's not a problem. Pierce the air bubble in 2-3 places with a needle, after that you can press the wallpaper again, they will take the desired position.

Stick wallpaper over the outer vertical edge of the door frame with a slight allowance, smooth or trim the allowance immediately

After the glue is completely dry, cut off the excess length and attach the skirting boards. Skirting boards are fixed with liquid nails or in other ways, taking into account the material of their manufacture.

How to renovate a loft-style bathroom

Quite a fashionable style among young people, it is difficult for older people to get used to it. Loft style - repair method various premises, including production, with minimal financial losses. All structures remain in the same place, construction works for surface finishing are produced without the use of additional materials. Leave old water and sewer pipes in the same place, you can remove the old paint from them and apply a new one. No need to try to make them match the wall, on the contrary, use contrasting colors that emphasize the placement of pipelines. When identifying problem areas troubleshoot immediately.

As for the walls, you can remove the old plaster to the brick, throw in large depressions with cement-sand mortar, but do not level or overwrite. Wipe brickwork wire brush, try to highlight the position of each brick. The older the seam and brick, the better, the more modern the loft will be considered. Everything should be simple and natural, no plastic sheathing, plasterboard and other finishing materials.

It is recommended to protect the planes from the inevitable gradual destruction to cover them with a moisture-resistant varnish. Before varnishing, carefully remove the dust, it is advisable to vacuum the surfaces with a powerful unit. Lacquer use only transparent. Varnish preferably with a pneumatic spray gun. The air jet allows you to process even hard-to-reach areas of the seams, and the strong impact of the varnish drops on the surface increases penetration and adhesion. In addition, repair work is significantly accelerated. And one more plus - old seams can collapse while working with a brush, sand will get into the varnish. This is very noticeable on the front surfaces of the brick.

Types of waterproof varnishes

Type	Performance characteristics
Polymer	It has excellent adhesion to bricks and concrete, is characterized by high mechanical strength, due to plasticity it compensates for dynamic loads. It can be one- or two-component, solvent or toluene is used as solvents. Complete drying time is no more than two hours.
Polyurethane	An oligomer with the inclusion of polymeric components was used as a base. Modern coating, in terms of quality, occupies a leading position. It is possible to add mineral dyes to change the color.
Silicone	The most affordable, have satisfactory physical and operational performance. Prolonged direct contact with water is not recommended. Odorless, the safest coatings for health, controlling government organizations allowed for use without restrictions.

Professional builders recommend that the section of the wall directly near the bathtub be finished with ceramic tiles, and the rest of the surfaces should be made under the loft. This approach will combine modern fashion design premises while maintaining the usual level of amenities.

Video - Industrial style loft bathroom

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