Do-it-yourself grouting tiles in the bathroom: the secrets of professional builders. Do-it-yourself tile grouting - mastering the technology to perfection! How to make grout on tile

Of course, it is an excellent and practical floor covering. It is especially good in rooms exposed to moisture, and places characterized by high traffic. That is why such floors are most popular in many offices and institutions. Our apartments are no exception. Tiles on the floor today can be found not only in bathrooms and kitchens and hallways, but sometimes even in living rooms. Fortunately, on the construction market you can find an extensive range of this material, sometimes capable of imitating almost any surface. True, this flooring will be beautiful only if it can be correctly and accurately laid. And an important role in this procedure is played by the final stage - grouting the tiles on the floor. It is on how correctly this is done that the visual effect produced by the coating will depend.

How do they rub the seams between the tiles on the floor, how to do it right and why do you need to do it at all? We will answer all these questions in our review.

What are seams and why overwrite them

During the master, special crosses are laid between the elements, which contribute to the formation of seams - the same distances between each tile. And they are needed so that, firstly, the facing material in the end looks neat and aesthetically pleasing. In addition, laying is not always carried out on a solid foundation; sometimes there is a floor under the tile, which can be subject to shrinkage processes. And if you do not leave these small distances, then the ceramic coating can simply crack under the influence of the movements of the same concrete slab occurring under it. However, if the joints are left unfilled, then over time they will simply become clogged with dirt, which is unlikely to contribute to a favorable impression of the floor. And in those rooms where there is moisture, mold will begin to form in the seams. And so that such problems do not arise, the seam between the tiles is filled with special mixtures - grouts.

What are grouts

Before looking for information on how to grout the seams on the tiles on the floor correctly, you need to familiarize yourself with the types of this very grout. Professionals also call it a fugue. The fact is that not every material presented in stores is suitable for a particular room. All grout compositions are divided into types. There are quite a few of them, but it is enough for a non-professional to know only that there are fugues made on the basis of cement, made on the basis of epoxy resin and combined, which are called epoxy-cement.

The former belong to the category of the simplest and are suitable for use only in those rooms in which there is practically no humidity. If we take into account the fact that it is almost impossible not to wash the floors, then this option can not be considered at all. That is, grouting ceramic tiles on the floor with a cement fugue is undesirable.

Epoxy grouts are the highest quality and are suitable for any coating in any room, as they have high strength characteristics and are moisture resistant. However, they have one significant drawback. They are quite expensive. In addition, they are suitable for filling joints with a width of at least four millimeters, and it is quite difficult for a non-professional to work with them. Therefore, the home master is advised to pay attention to an intermediate option, which is ideal for flooring not only in the living quarters of apartments, but also in bathrooms and kitchens. Simply put, a cement-epoxy fugue is considered a universal option for the home, since it can be used to grout the seams on the tiles on the floor in almost any room.

How to choose "your" grout

First of all, you need to read what is written on the package. The manufacturer must indicate there the optimal width of the seams, in which it is rational to use one or another fugue. Accordingly, you need to know your own dimensions. There are also universal grouts. They can be used on flooring, the width of the joints of which is from two to twenty-two millimeters.

Then, having chosen the desired composition, pay attention to its color. The palette of shades in the store is presented in a large assortment, but you still need to know some basic rules. For example, the fact that contrasting grout can only be used if you are sure that your tile is laid perfectly. As a rule, the best option is to choose a tone that is as close as possible to the color of the tile. If the latter has a pattern of a different shade, then you can take a fugue of the same color as him.

Process steps

Before grouting the seams on the tiles on the floor, you must first wait a day after. This time can just be spent on buying a fugue and the necessary tools. The process of grouting itself consists of several stages. These are: preparing the base, diluting the grout (unless, of course, you purchased it ready-made, which, by the way, is quite expensive), applying the mortar to the seams, removing excess and final cleaning.

What will the master need to have for the grouting procedure

Special equipment and tools are not required, however, some set will still have to be prepared. Naturally, the trowel itself must already be purchased directly. By the way, it can be in the form of a powder, or it can be sold already ready for use. In principle, the second option is better in every way, since it is much easier to rub the seams on the tiles on the floor with such a composition, if only because it already has the desired consistency. To achieve the latter is not quite a skillful master, who carries out this procedure for the first time, with self-kneading, it is quite difficult the first time.

However, such a fugue also has its drawbacks. And the main one among them, in addition to the cost mentioned above, is that such a grout is not subject to long-term storage. That is, the remains of an expensive mixture, most likely, will have to be thrown away. So experts recommend that novice craftsmen still purchase dry grouts. And since such a thing, it is required to have on hand in this case also a container for breeding. You will also need a trowel, a special spatula (rubber), a foam rubber sponge and clean rags, a bucket for water, gloves and an abrasive grater.

Training

The tiled floor must be carefully cleaned of tile adhesive, if any, as well as dirt and dust. It also does not hurt to walk first with a vacuum cleaner, and then with a brush along the seams. Then you need to take a sponge and moisten them with plenty of water. After that, you can start breeding grout.

How to breed fugu

First, experts recommend carefully reading the instructions. Despite the fact that the grout dilution procedure is, in principle, the same, each manufacturer may still have its own nuances. Therefore, do not be lazy and carefully study what is written on the label. Then take three-quarters of the water from the rate indicated on the package and pour the puffer into it. Mix everything thoroughly. And then slowly add water until the solution reaches the desired consistency. After 10 minutes you can start working. It is necessary to grout only with gloves, since the mixture is quite capable of corroding the skin of the hands with prolonged contact.

Advice from experts! Since the novice master does not yet have the necessary skills, and the grout dries out within just a few hours, it is better not to dilute the entire mixture at once. Divide the contents of the package into two parts. And work out one first, and then the other. As for the amount of water needed for kneading, it must also be divided by half.

We rub the seams on the floor

The most common is the method using a rubber spatula. Since it will not be necessary to work immediately on the entire territory, but to process tiles literally per square meter, experts recommend moistening a couple of “squares” with water again immediately before the process itself. In general, professionals process 2-3 square meters. m in twenty minutes. A novice master will not be able to achieve such a speed, but this is not so important. The main thing here is accuracy and careful observance of technology. Well, the fact that you finish the work an hour or two later does not really matter.

So, how to properly grout tiles? Apply a puffer to the rubber spatula and begin to fill the seams with diagonal movements. And do not just smear on top, but try to press the composition, as it were, so that it fills the seam completely. Remove excess with the same spatula. At the same time, make sure that the filled joint coincides in level with the level of the tile. That is, if there are any recesses or voids, be sure to immediately add a fugue there. Since you need to grout the tiles on the floor in stages, work this way for about half an hour. After that, proceed to cleaning the jointed area.

To do this, arm yourself with a bucket of water and a sponge. Constantly wetting it and squeezing it well, go through the foam rubber over the entire surface, making movements in a circle. Your goal is to remove excess from the tile itself and the seams. If stains remain on the tile - this is not a problem. They will be removed during the final cleaning process. Now the main thing is not to leave pieces of dried fugue on ceramics. It won't be easy to remove it later. After you have processed one area, proceed to the next. And so on until all the seams are worn.

Finishing

After a day, you can begin to correct. It may well be that in some places the seams are not uniform enough. That is, there are surpluses. Experts recommend in this case to take either a grater and go through all the seams with them, holding the tool at one angle. Simply put, polish them. After that, you need to remove it with a vacuum cleaner, and then again take up wet cleaning. That is, thoroughly rinse the seams and tiles with a foam rubber sponge, periodically changing the dirty water. After the floor dries, stains may remain on it. Experts recommend in this case not to wash it a hundred times, but simply carefully wipe it with a dry cloth. On this, the procedure can be considered completed.

How to grout tiles in the bathroom on the floor

Just like in any other room. Except that in this case, experts recommend adding another step - covering the joints with sealant. After all, the bathroom, like no other, is exposed to moisture. And quite often the seams on the floor, and even on the walls, turn black from mold. And to prevent this from happening, buy a special sealant. It represents a liquid. It should be applied three days after grouting (you need to let the fugue dry). Take a thin brush for drawing and gently coat the seams with it.

Conclusion

We tried to tell as much as possible in detail about how to overwrite the tiles on the floor. And at the same time they shared the secrets of experienced craftsmen and gave recommendations from specialists. We hope that now you will not have any difficulties with grouting tile joints.

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In every building supermarket or market, you can easily purchase a suitable design and color, and depending on the operating conditions of the tiled surface, grout for joints.

Grout mixture (fugue) is designed to fill tile joints

The choice, in fact, is quite large. There are different manufacturers, a wide range of colors, fugues that differ in composition and purpose, ready-to-use formulations and mixtures that require preparation. In general, it is possible to choose the right grout for each specific case of tiling a room.

After all, the fugue, in addition to strength, must also have good water resistance, and, of course, emphasize the advantages of the tile. And so, you already understood that you can buy any suitable composition, but the purpose of the article is different. We will talk about how to make a fugue correctly, and how to dilute the grout so that it lasts a long time without burdening you with additional care for the seams.

Common prefabricated fugues

The retail trade network offers two types of grout mixtures:

Cement

Long known, most often used fugues. The basis, as the name implies, is finely ground cement, and fine sand acts as a filler. To give the desired qualities and characteristics, additives and plasticizers are introduced into the mixture, and the color scheme of the desired color.

It is not difficult to make a mixture ready for use, it is enough to dilute the composition with water or latex to such an extent that the consistency resembles putty. The biggest advantages of cement grouts are the simplicity and ease of use, and affordable price.

Epoxy mixtures are used to fill joints between materials with low water absorption.

The disadvantages include the porous and rough structure of the resulting joint, due to which the grout is more contaminated, and the insufficient water-repellent properties of cement fugues.

If you prepare the grout mixture not on water, but using latex, the fugue becomes much more elastic, it fills the seam better and the grout acquires moisture-resistant properties.

Epoxy

Modern fugues made on the basis of epoxy resins and hardener. They are used in rooms with high humidity and aggressive environments, and in places with mechanical stress. To grout joints on a tiled worktop or kitchen apron, it will also be right with an epoxy fugue. For the aesthetic appeal of the seams, and the creation of an original design, the grout composition can be filled with sequins, mother-of-pearl or colored dyes.

Buying ready-made grout mixtures in the store is certainly a good option, but there may be objective reasons that do not allow this. For example, a limited budget or a fugue, should have some special properties and qualities that are not inherent in store counterparts, and in general I wanted to experiment and show creative thought. In such cases, the grout can be done by yourself.

Grout (fugue) allows you to mask defects

Grout options made at home

There are several compositions of fugues that are easy to make yourself. According to the component that forms the basis of the grout, they are:

• Cement. A simple and cheap option to make a puffer is to mix cement and sand in equal proportions and then dilute the mixture with water. In this case, white cement is used, and sand of the smallest possible fraction. Dyes can also be added to the composition to give the desired color to the seam.
• Gypsum. Grouting tiles with your own hands from gypsum is also not difficult to implement, but you need to take into account the short setting time of this material, so you should not prepare too much of the mixture. And it would be right to add slaked lime or 2% of any glue of animal origin to the mixture, they will play the role of a plasticizer, which will make the grout less brittle and slightly increase the hardening time of the composition.
• Alabaster. This material is a type of gypsum that has only undergone additional high-temperature processing, and therefore, it is necessary to make a grout mixture by analogy with the previous option.
• Clay. To prepare a fugue from this material, you need to add a small amount of slaked lime to the clay mass for plasticity and a little cement for the strength of the composition when it hardens.

Also, do-it-yourself grouting will be considered an ordinary purchased white fugue with sparkles or dyes introduced into its composition. If the seam, in accordance with the design of the cladding, should be transparent, then the glitter grout can be made from liquid glass.

Requirements that grouts must meet

It is clear that home-made fumes are difficult to compete with industrial-made grouts, but it’s quite realistic to get as close as possible to the desired parameters. Before diluting the grout, we present to the review the requirements for the properties of the fugues:

• you need to prepare the puffer in such a way that it becomes elastic and easily distributed at the seams;
• after filling the joints and hardening the composition, the grout should not crack and crumble during the care of the tiles;
• the setting time of the mass must ensure the processing of at least one square meter of the lined surface;
• when using a fugue in wet rooms, they are subject to appropriate requirements for moisture resistance;
• the ability to apply household chemicals to grouts for the care of a tiled surface and seams in particular;
• the aesthetic appearance of the grout should correspond to the overall design of the room, so it is better to make the fugue white or colorless and only then fill it with the desired color or sparkles.

A correctly made fugue helps to level small chipped tiles and possible minor defects in the installation of ceramics. Conversely, poorly executed grouting will ruin even an impeccably executed tile laying.

Fugue - a filler of tile joints - carries a decorative and functional load

What types of grouts exist, how to make them with your own hands and what properties they should have, we found out. At the end of the article, it remains to give recommendations on what should not be done when processing seams with grouting mastics:

• for sealing floor tiles, and places exposed to pollution, do not use a light-colored fugue;
• do not embroider the tiles with cement-sand compounds and plaster mixtures, as the grout body turns out to be porous and collapses quickly enough;
• if the grout mass has already seized, it is impossible to dilute it with water for further use;
• after completion of the grouting work, do not postpone the cleaning of the tiled surface from the remnants of glue and fugue for a long time.

Well, how scary? As they say, the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing, all the more remember that, in case of failure with home-made grout, you always have a chance and opportunity to correct the situation already using factory materials.

Some forty years ago, no one knew such a word as grout. The last squeak in the form of Greek or Polish tiles still had to be managed to get, and it was not always possible to buy a tile of the same color. It was glued (it was glued, not laid) on the walls and floor in all conceivable and inconceivable ways. And what was not added to the adhesive mixture so that it would stay in the chosen place! They glued without seams, so no one needed grout.

But time and technology run forward, overtaking all ideas of beauty and practicality.

Peculiarities

Today, without grout, it is simply impossible to imagine a well-laid tile. The technology of laying facing tiles in our time implies that seams are made between the decorative elements. Seams are called the indent between the ends of two adjacent tiles not filled with tile adhesive. You need to know how to properly grout the seams on the tiles.

Intertile seams have a purely utilitarian purpose:

• They create a thermal gap. Everyone knows from the course of physics that bodies expand when heated. With very narrow joints or with no joints at all, ceramic tiles can crack in any direction, squeezing one another out.
• Tiles from different manufacturers are calibrated differently. Tile calibration is a tolerance for the deviation of the size of the finished product from the dimensions declared by the manufacturer. Sometimes the calibration can go up to 1 mm. When laying such unevenly sized tiles without seams or with narrow seams, it is impossible to get a more or less decent wall.

In order for the final result to have clear horizontals and verticals, a poorly calibrated tile must be shifted, centered, changing the size of the seam for each adjacent pair.

In order to avoid gaps between the laid elements of wall and floor decoration, into which water and dirt will enter, the seams are filled with a special solution called grout. Ceramic tiles, for the most part, have a slight rounding at the edges due to the peculiarities of its manufacturing technology.

Glaze covering ceramics is applied to only one surface. Therefore, the ends of the tile have the color of the clay from which it was made, and differ from the color of the pattern on the front side. When the seams are not worn, the brown edges are visible to the naked eye and spoil the whole picture.

A common mistake of amateurs is that they believe that imperfections in tiling and mechanical damage in the form of small chips can be hidden with grout. She, like paint, only emphasizes all the flaws. Therefore, it is better to replace a defective tile immediately or lay it in an inconspicuous place. e.g. for a bath or shower.

The composition and basis of the grout from different manufacturers are different. Some add special antifungal additives, others - hardening components, others try to give the grout more elasticity, and others - water-repellent properties.

The more such consumer properties a grout has, the more expensive it is.

Kinds

The basis for the most commonly used grouts is usually gypsum or cement, the resulting joint is opaque, uniform in composition and color. To give the lined tiled surface an aesthetic appearance, the grout is tinted (coloring pigments are added) in various colors. But in special cases with such a composition it is impossible to achieve the desired result.

To obtain a transparent or translucent seam, epoxy-based compounds are used, which can be tinted in different colors or various fillers can be added. Fillers can also be finely ground powder of silver or gold color and small beads, as well as small holographic sparkles, as for decorating nails.

The strength of such a grout will be no less than that of the tile itself, and dirt will not eat into the seams.

Another type of grout is based on the use of furan resin. Its feature is an exceptionally deep black color. In grouts based on gypsum or cement, the darkest color is anthracite, black with a gray tint. This is due to the characteristics of the base materials, which no one has yet been able to tint daughter.

Today, as a grout in places of increased load and humidity, silicone-based sealants painted in different colors are increasingly being used.

The classic grouting material was and remains tile adhesive for clinker. The seam is strong, its width does not matter, the color is only gray.

The grout is sold in any building supermarket both in a ready-to-use form and as a mixture for preparing a mortar for clinker tiles. This is an equal replacement.

How to breed?

Those who make repairs with their own hands should memorize the rule for preparing solutions from dry mixtures: the mixture is added to water, not water to the mixture. But grouts are an exception to this rule. Since the features of their composition are such that they take little water, water is added to the dry powder to obtain a solution of the desired consistency.

The water used to prepare any mortar should in no case be warm or hot, otherwise the mixture will immediately turn into a frozen, shapeless lump with which nothing can be done. First of all, you need to correctly calculate the proportions.

Manufacturers, as a rule, indicate on the packaging the recommended amount of water per 100 g or per 1 kg of dry mix. But this figure is not mandatory. The density of the solution depends on the result that you want to get in the end. For the standard grouting method, the solution should be like thick homemade sour cream or tomato paste. If during mixing part of the mixture remains dry, add water in very small portions until the solution reaches the desired density.

If, on the contrary, the mixture turned out to be very liquid, similar to kefir, you can gradually add dry grout, again in small portions. And mix well so that there are no lumps.

Some additives make grout mixtures very non-hygroscopic, and the particles of the mixture do not want to get wet. It is necessary to knead such compositions carefully and for quite a long time until a thick homogeneous mass is obtained.

The viability of the diluted grout is small, on the strength of half an hour or an hour. After this time, the solution begins to harden, clot, lose plasticity, and it is no longer possible to work with it. Therefore, it is most preferable to dilute the grout in small portions. If during the work the composition began to thicken, you can add a small amount of water to it and stir well.

If you cook a lot of grout, then it is very difficult to work it all out without losing quality. Preparing a large amount of the mixture at once is logical only if several people work on grouting at once, each of which performs a certain stage.

The most suitable container for diluting the grout is a rubber or flexible polymer cup with a volume of 300 to 500 ml. Flexibility is due to the fact that when the mixture hardens, it becomes very hard and it is almost impossible to scrape it off hard dishes. When twisting a soft cup, the frozen grout “snaps off” from the walls and is knocked out with a slight tap. If you try to knock on a hard container, then the cup is more likely to crack than the grout will fall behind the walls.

In the case of using a ready-made grout mixture, the manufacturer did everything for us. It can be used by taking it straight out of the bucket. Just remember to close the lid tightly so that the unused grout does not dry out. After 12-24 hours in the open air, the finished mixture is first covered with a film, and then turns into a solid, unsuitable for grouting substance.

Instruments

Before you start grouting the seams, you need to prepare a bucket of clean cool water, latex or vinyl gloves and a few dense sponges (like for washing dishes) with fine pores, as well as two hygroscopic cloth napkins. For the convenience of work, a stepladder is needed. Directly to fill the joints with grout, you need a flexible polyurethane spatula 5-10 cm wide and a container with a ready-made solution.

If grouting skills are not developed, it is better to take a small tool. It's also a good idea to have a paint knife on hand for partial correction of the seam. To form an aesthetic seam, you need a round ebonite stick of small diameter - 3-5 mm.

In special cases, masking tape with good adhesion may be needed. You can choose a device such as a special machine for filling seams. This will greatly simplify your work and you will complete it faster.

How to apply?

Be sure to use gloves, so you will seal the seams without fear for the condition of your hands. The composition of the grout is quite aggressive. Without hand protection, you risk contact dermatitis.

In order for the seams to turn out neat, without extraneous inclusions and color deviations due to the tile adhesive not removed from the ends, they must be cleaned before starting work. Experienced craftsmen wash the seams with a richly wetted sponge directly in the process of laying tiles. They do this because it is much more difficult to renew dried tile adhesive. But if it so happened that the dried glue still remained in the seams, it can be cleaned with a small spatula or a paint knife. This operation must be carried out carefully, as mechanical action can damage the glaze of the ceramic product. You will get chips that are very difficult to repair.

After cleaning the seams, it is preferable to rinse them with a damp sponge and joint.

It is necessary to cover the seams as quickly as possible, apply the solution with confident movements and close up all the chips. You can also darken the seam or recolor it. You can change the color by adding special paints.

There are several ways to get nice and even seams using grout.

Based on gypsum or cement

In any case, it is possible to rub the seams only after the tile adhesive has lost its mobility and the tile has clearly fixed in place. For floors, this moment is determined by the time when it will be possible to walk on the tile without pushing through the tile with the weight of one's own body.

The composition is applied to a clean seam in a direction transverse to it with little effort, with continuous strokes along its entire length. The remains of the grout are removed from the tile with the same spatula, running it along the seam. The seam becomes even. Excess grout is sent back to the container with the finished composition. Visually, you can immediately assess the full filling of the seam with grout. If somewhere there is a gap (hole) or an insufficient amount of grout, it is advisable to correct these defects without waiting for the seam to harden. In the same way, fill the seams on the entire wall. Then they return to the place from which they started, and already clean the grout.

Cleaning the grout with this method of applying it, aims to make all the seams equally even and smooth. This operation is done with a round ebonite stick. If there is no such tool, then you can use a round pencil or an oval lighter. Passing a stick along the seam with a little pressure on the grout that has begun to harden, remove all excess from the seam and form its slightly concave smooth surface. The seams are slightly recessed, even along the entire length.

After the formation of the seam, the tile is wiped first with a slightly damp, and then with a dry cloth. Here it is very important to start the process of forming a beautiful seam before the moment when the grout begins to gain strength.

In another case, the composition is applied in the same way, only the seam is formed immediately with a damp sponge or finger, swiping with a sufficiently damp sponge with a little pressure. With this method, you will not have to return to an already worn area. In addition, the tile is washed directly during the grouting process. After drying, it will be enough to wipe the surface with a dry cloth.

The finished composition is placed in a trowel bag with a nozzle of the size required for the seam. Fill first either vertical or horizontal seams. When squeezing the mixture, you need to carefully monitor that it fills the seam completely, without gaps. Since any mixtures diluted with water have the property of shrinkage, that is, a decrease in volume upon drying and evaporation of moisture from them, it is necessary to apply grout in a slightly larger amount than it seems directly at the moment of mashing the seam.

sealant

Sealants are produced in tubes and cylinders for special pistols. For mashing seams, the second option is used. The sealed tip of the balloon is cut off with a sharp knife, after which the cone nozzle, which comes with the sealant, is screwed onto it. The cylinder is inserted into the gun, the tip of the cone nozzle is cut off so as to obtain the required seam width. The sealant is squeezed out exactly into the seam. Leveling it can be done with a wet finger or sponge. From the surface of the tile, excess sealant should be immediately washed off with a damp sponge and wiped dry with a cloth.

Resin based

The composition usually has a two-component structure, consisting of the resin itself and the hardener. To obtain a more homogeneous mass without air bubbles, the resin must be heated in a water bath to a temperature of about 50-60 degrees before mixing. Add hardener, tinting paste if required, and filler of choice according to the design. The mixture should be applied directly to the seam. You can use a piping bag with a nozzle or buy a special trowel bag. Align the seams most conveniently with a flexible plastic spatula.

If the grout gets on the surface of the tile, immediately wipe the soiled area dry, then rinse with a damp sponge and wipe dry again.

When grouting joints on tiles that do not have a smooth, but a relief surface, the mixture from the front surface of the tile should be immediately washed out with plenty of water. Otherwise, it will be extremely difficult to bring it into a decent form. The grout that has eaten into small depressions of the relief is very poorly cleaned during hardening. You can mess up the whole job.

If the tile "does not fit", then the seams are obtained in different widths in one row - vertical or horizontal. In this case, after the standard filling of the seams, you can use the following trick: on a dry and clean tile along the entire length of the seam that needs to be adjusted, masking tape is glued on both sides. The width of the seam is chosen based on the widest. The grout is diluted a little more liquid than for filling joints.

The mixture is carefully applied to the formed seam, immediately smoothing it and eliminating defects. The adhesive tape is removed without waiting for the mixture to solidify. Otherwise, the grout will begin to crumble along the edges of the seam and the edge of the seam will become jagged instead of straight. Masking tape can also be used when grouting tiles with small relief to protect the edge of the front surface from getting grout on it. In this case, you do not have to spend a lot of time washing. The same applies to finishing materials with a porous structure. Here you simply cannot do without adhesive tape.

After grouting all vertical and horizontal joints, do not forget to fill with the mixture all technological cutouts on the tile near the heated towel rail, outlets for hot and cold water, faucets for connecting the washing machine, and so on.

When filling joints on tiles with straight (unsmoothed) ends, the joints must be made without deepening. That is, the seam and the front surface of the tile must form a single surface. Otherwise, the brown side surface will be visible from under the grout and spoil the whole impression.

High-quality tile laying does not guarantee its long service life. Therefore, a very important stage is the grouting of joints between ceramic products. It is from this final step that the final quality of the work done, the appearance of the composition, its operational capabilities, and durability directly depend. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the features of the room where the tiles are installed, for example, in the bathroom or in the kitchen.

The seams between tiles represent the gap or distance at the junction from one ceramic element to another. There are certain and generally accepted standards according to which the technology of laying tiles is carried out. The gap left between the parts is approximately 2 to 5 mm. However, these indicators take into account only the average parameters of the tile, and the larger it is, the wider the seams should remain.

This approach carries a rational grain, which is due to a purely practical aspect. In addition, it is necessary to wipe the seam in the bathroom in order to exclude the penetration of moisture, which is detrimental to the base of the bathroom floor. As a result, it is the seams that are responsible for the condition and how long the shower room will be in. Here are some other advantages of competent grouting:

• improves ventilation of the base of the wall or floor;
• the displacement of the tile is leveled;
• protection against water, dirt, fungus;
• reliable adhesion of all surfaces;
• attractive appearance.

Choosing a solution

It is necessary to wipe the seam correctly so that no troubles occur during operation. To do this, you need to choose a quality composition that has high characteristics. Today, this aspect is given less attention than required, however, this can lead to very sad consequences. To choose the right mixture, it is worthwhile to select according to the following parameters:

Wall joints between tiles can be treated with standard grout, special grout or varnish. After a certain period of time, the bathroom coating loses its qualities, so you should choose a special mixture, characterized by reliable adhesion of the composition to the surfaces. Thus, a composition having a loose structure is not suitable here.

We prepare the solution

Under the elimination of seams, mixtures packaged at the enterprise are usually used. On the one hand, it is very convenient, fast, and the selection takes a minimum of time, and is carried out for each specific case. In addition, being in its original packaging, the powder, unlike liquid solutions or varnish, can be stored for quite a long time. After all, it is not always possible to calculate the right amount of material the first time. Therefore, the mixture is poured gradually, adjusting the density of the solution.

On the other hand, manufacturing companies offer ready-made and packaged formulations in special containers. The weak side of this method of application is the impossibility of storing opened packages, i.e. you will have to use the entire mass or throw out an unused amount of grout. Thus, kneading the composition for the seams on your own is much more profitable than purchasing finished products.

At present, making a grout mass with your own hands is quite simple. An alabaster blank and a certain amount of water will do. Some time after stirring, a white substance is formed, which is applied to the seam. However, when dried, the mass may crumble, which makes it impossible to use it on a long-term basis. Silicone, gypsum additives or varnish will not fundamentally change the situation.

Worth knowing! For the preparation of high-quality grout, it is best to have the necessary experience. Otherwise, the resulting mass will be of poor quality, which will lead to its crumbling after drying. It might be better to go with the purchase option.

How to apply?

In order to qualitatively wipe the seams between the tiles, you need to prepare the following list of tools:

• a small rubber spatula;
• capacity;
• water;
• foam sponge;
• tassel;
• mixer.

Filling the container with water, it is necessary to add a grout solution to it in small portions. Under this case, you will need a medium-sized container, with the exception of when working with large volumes. The mixture is brought to a homogeneous state and applied to the surface with a trowel or spatula. It goes something like this:

• cleaning the base from debris, dirt;
• treatment with agents directed against microorganisms;
• seams are wetted with a wet brush for reliable adhesion;
• prepare some mastic and apply it to the seam;
• carefully tamp the mortar between the tiles with a spatula;
• if there are no voids, then remove the excess;
• after the solution dries, moisten it with water - this will avoid cracks;
• must be applied to the seams between the baseboard and the wall.

Need to know! Grouting the seams on the wall and floor carries certain differences. For example, the wall surface should be processed from top to bottom, and the sealant is applied last. The floor covering is filled from the far corner to the exit, by analogy with laying tiles.

Let the bath dry for 24 hours, then re-treat with protective agents against exposure, rot, mold, fungus. This will significantly reduce the risk of the appearance of various microorganisms for the most vulnerable areas. One way or another, moisture will accumulate on the surface of the bathroom floor, naturally, for it, the seam on the tile will be like a channel for a river. Thus, to complete the work, it remains simply to apply epoxy.

After the bathroom has acquired its final form, it is necessary to take care of the attractive appearance of the room. You can use a tile grout marker to remove traces of putty. Usually the surface is wiped off in 2-3 approaches, if the mastic is not yet completely dry, cleaning is postponed until it is completely dry.

The remains of the solution on the ceramics are removed with water and a spatula. Wet the excess and then gently scrape it up with a scraper. The remaining stains are removed with a damp cloth or sponge. If the tile has a ribbed or uneven surface, then cleaning is carried out with a toothbrush. At the final stage, it is better to use a glass cleaner that polishes the surface well.

Need to know! It is necessary to clean the mastic that has not yet fully hardened, otherwise it will be very difficult to soak it, and for products with a relief surface this becomes very difficult.

Caring for bathroom ceramics is, for obvious reasons, different from a normal room. About once every two months it is necessary to carry out a thorough cleaning here using special detergents or folk products in the form of lemon, vinegar, soap and others. Bleaching is carried out using hydrogen peroxide and soda. They do an excellent job with harmful microorganisms, dirt and fungus.

Video instruction

When the main work of laying the tiles is left behind, you can proceed to its final stage - grouting. This work plays a very important role, because a well-made grout will be able to disguise tile laying defects, if any, and, conversely, a bad grout will completely destroy the impression of an impeccably executed installation. In addition, the empty spaces between the tiles with poor-quality grout blacken over time from fungus and mold. Therefore, it is worth paying special attention to the question of how to grout the seams on the tiles in order to improve the overall appearance of the coating, as well as provide additional protection.

Video instruction

What are grout compositions?

Grout for tile joints is of two types:

• cement based;
• epoxy based.

Cement grouts inexpensive and easy to use, and therefore the most popular in home use. They are presented in the form of dry mixes with the addition of modified polymers and are diluted with water or latex before starting work. Modified polymers give the grout material resistance to moisture, and this allows it to be used even in outdoor open areas. Ready-made mixtures are also on sale, which do not require additional preparation, but they are usually much more expensive.

If the joint during installation turned out to be wider than 3 mm, then it is better to purchase cement grout with the addition of sand, and if the joints are smaller, then it is recommended to use ordinary cement-based grout.

Safety Tip: Cement grouts can cause inflammation of the skin, eyes, and lungs. Therefore, when working with these materials, be sure to wear safety glasses, a respirator and rubber gloves.

Epoxy grouts contain epoxy resin and hardener. Such compositions perfectly tolerate mechanical, chemical and thermal effects, they are much more stable and stronger than cement counterparts, but they are also more expensive. They are used mainly in industrial premises. At home, it is reasonable to use such a grout only if the width of the joints between ceramic tiles is more than 6 mm (since it is quite viscous, it will not be able to penetrate narrower joints).

Epoxy grouts are a mixture of 2 components: paste and catalyst, which are mixed immediately before use. The proportions of these two components must be accurate, so you need to use a scale.

What is the best tile grout? Experts recommend buying epoxy grout for ceramic tile joints, as it is more beautiful, stronger and more reliable. It will last up to 50 years, perfectly protecting the cladding from moisture, fungi and bacteria, as well as from exposure to chemicals. If you still decide to buy a cement-based grout, then it is advisable to buy latex for it.

As for the color of the grout, this is a matter of taste: you can choose the grout according to the main color of the ceramic tile or prefer a classic light tone.

Grout Width

What should be the width of the grout joints? A lot of it depends on personal preference. Some, for example, like narrow seams. Excessively wide seams suppress the tile visually. Square ceramic tiles ranging in size from 10 to 60 cm will look neat with 3 mm joints. The irregular shape of the tile becomes less noticeable with wider joints, but no more than 12 mm. A joint with a width of more than 12 mm will become stronger if coarse sand is added to the grout, but even this will not always protect it from cracking.

To the same extent, it is not recommended to make the joints too narrow, since it will not be possible to fill them properly with grout, as a result of which water can seep into the lining. Good craftsmen know that the quality of the lining will be at a high level with a sufficient width of the joints, when they can be well filled with grout. And this means that the seams will be waterproof, and they will also be able to absorb the deformation of the tiles during expansion or contraction. This ability of seams is reduced many times over with a width of less than 1 millimeter.

Grouting ceramic tiles: how it's done

How to properly grout ceramic tiles? First of all, we check whether the glue is completely dry. Then we carry out a thorough cleaning of the seams from the remnants of glue, dirt and dust, remove the remaining spacers. When working with unglazed tiles, it must be moistened before grouting, otherwise it will draw water from the grout. Glazed tiles do not need to be wetted.

All grouting materials must be kept for some time in the room where grouting will be carried out. The optimum temperature for grouting is 18-25 ° C.

You can see the grouting process in detail in the video below - grouting ceramic tiles video. It consists of the following steps:

• mixing the grout composition;
• maintaining the grout mixture for its better wetting;
• re-mixing grout;
• grout distribution;
• cleaning excess grout.

The grout is mixed with water or latex additives. Dry polymer grouts are mixed exclusively with water. In any case, add such an amount of liquid that the resulting mixture is easily distributed. This is important to remember, because excess liquid will weaken the grout (we adhere to the proportions indicated on the packaging of the material).

The grout is mixed by adding the dry component to the liquid

We mix by gradually adding the dry component to the liquid (at first we pour only three-quarters of the total amount of liquid). After mixing all the dry ingredients with the liquid, add the remaining liquid in small portions, constantly checking the consistency of the grout. Mixing is carried out using a rectangular trowel or an electric mixer. The stirrer must be completely immersed in the solution so that air does not enter the mixture, because air bubbles weaken it.

All components are mixed, most of the lumps are broken. Let the solution stand for 10 minutes to soak. Mix the grout again so that no lumps remain. If it is necessary to prepare several portions of the grout, then you need to be sure that their composition will be identical. Therefore, when mixing new portions, we try to observe the proportions and order of connection of the components, and so that the color of the grout is constant, when mixing the next portion, we add grout from each package to it.

Advice! When purchasing multiple packs of grout, make sure they are all from the same serial number.

The finished grout should have sufficient density so that it is kept in a slide when spreading.

Materials and tools needed for grouting

• Scraper with rubber nozzle
• Grout
• Sponge
• Bucket
• A wooden stick with a pointed end, jointing, or a toothbrush
• Plywood
• net cloth
• paint roller
• Respirator (for working with cement grouts)
• Rubber gloves
• Protective glasses

We spread the grout with a slide on the surface of the cladding.

The grout is laid out in a slide on the surface of the tile

To distribute the solution, we use a trowel (respectively for walls or floors). Apply the grout to the tile diagonally, holding the grater at an angle of 30° to it. We try not only to cover the seams with mortar, but also to press it with force into the seams in order to fill them tightly, because their strength depends on the density of filling the seams.

The grout is applied at an angle of 30 degrees to the tile

We do not grout over the entire surface at once. First, we distribute the solution in a small area (no more than 2 square meters) to find out how quickly this grout sets. If it seizes quickly, you need to stop and do the cleaning. Sometimes it is possible to spread the grout over an area of ​​up to 9m2, and only then start cleaning, in other cases it is necessary to cover only small areas and clean them.

The first grout removal is dry.

To do this, use a grater, holding it at right angles to the tiles and moving it diagonally to the grout joints (so that the edge of the tool does not accidentally remove part of the grout from the joint). When the excess is removed, the grout should be allowed to set before cleaning. While grouting and cleaning, do not forget to stir the grout periodically so that it retains its softness before applying to the following areas.

During the grouting process, periodically stir the grout so that it retains its softness.

The second removal of the grout mixture is wet. When should it be started? The time it takes for the grout to fully set before wet cleaning varies greatly. It may take 5 minutes, or it may take 20 minutes or more. The rate of evaporation of moisture from the grout directly depends on the adhesive and tile, the type of substrate, as well as weather conditions.

Wet cleaning of the cladding surface

For wet cleaning, you need a bucket of water and a sponge (it is desirable that the sponge be with rounded edges - this will not form grooves in the seams). With soft circular motions, we remove particles of sand and cement. We act carefully to avoid the formation of grooves in the grout. At a time, we clean only a small area (1-2m2), wetting the sponge often enough to wash off the grout particles that have penetrated into the pores of the tiles. We try to rinse the sponge well and wring it out as hard as possible, shake off excess water from our hands.

At the second stage, we inspect the grout seams so that they are all neat. With the help of jointing, a toothbrush or a wooden stick with a pointed end, we align and smooth the seams.

Line and smooth seams with stitching

Then we trim their edges with a sponge. Ideally, the seams should be even on top, not convex, although most seams become slightly concave afterward, but this is acceptable. It is important that in the end they all turn out to be of the same depth and shape.

The seams are leveled, now it remains to carefully clean the surface of the cladding from the remaining traces of grout. We act carefully so that the sponge does not wipe the grout from the seams. After this cleaning, grout residues must be completely removed from the surface of the tiles. Seams should dry for 15 minutes.

The grout remaining on the surface of the tile is removed with gauze or a soft, clean cloth.

Job done, put the plywood sheet on the floor and don't let anyone walk on the floor until the grout is completely dry. Some grouts take up to two or more weeks to dry (check the drying time in the manufacturer's instructions).