How to make a slatted ceiling with your own hands - instructions. Do-it-yourself rack ceiling installation: detailed instructions How to mount a suspended rack ceiling

Increasingly, people began to look not only for beautiful and reliable ceiling design options, but also for budget ones. The slatted ceiling just meets all of the above qualities, it is not surprising that it is increasingly being used not only in offices or cafes, but also in your own home. To date, there are a lot of colors of rack flow, which allows you to fit it into almost any interior.

If you decide to make such a ceiling with your own hands, first of all you need to buy accessories for it. This can be done in thematic companies that sell and install them. Below we give several examples of slatted ceilings, from which, perhaps, you will choose something for yourself.

First of all, of course, the rack ceiling must be chosen correctly. Today, stores sell ready-made ceiling designs of this type, which are mainly intended for a bathroom or bathroom. But if such structures do not fit in area, the rack ceiling must be completed by yourself. After all the materials are selected, you need to take care of the tools necessary for installation. To install a slatted ceiling with your own hands, you will need a puncher, a clerical knife, metal scissors, a pencil, a screwdriver or a screwdriver, dowel-nails and pliers.

Before you start installing the rack ceiling in the kitchen or anywhere else, you need to decide on its type. In the photo below, we show a diagram of two types of ceilings - a closed type and an open one.

Stages of mounting a rack ceiling

1. Drawing a horizontal line-level for installing a rack ceiling. Such a line should run in such a way that it will be possible to install spotlights in the future. But at the same time, it should be at least 13 centimeters from the existing ceiling.
2. A ceiling profile is installed along the entire perimeter of the room along the drawn line. Holes for fixing it can be made using a puncher. But it is not recommended to use it for drilling tiles. To do this, there are special drills for working with ceramic tiles.
3. Tire ceiling attachment. The tire is attached to the surface with hangers or dowel-nails. The latter are used if there is a need not to lower the ceiling too much. This stage completes the laborious work of installing a rack ceiling.
4. Panels measured and cut to the required dimensions are attached to the installed busbar. In such panels, holes are also pre-drilled for spotlights. To do this, draw a circle of the required size with a pencil in the right place. In the middle of such a circle, a hole is carefully made with a drill, from which small slices are cut with scissors to the edges of this circle, which are then simply broken off, and the places are cleaned, after which a perfectly even hole is obtained.

Using a screwdriver or screwdriver, the tires are lowered so that the panels lie neatly on the ceiling profile. Then, at the final stage of installation, it is necessary to install interpanel strips.

DIY editing video

Slatted ceilings have long and firmly taken their place in the field of construction and repair, significantly displacing other types of suspended structures. And they took this place by right, because slatted ceilings have many advantages.

This is the speed of installation, ease of construction, a variety of colors and the ability to create any interior, from strict classic to fantasy.

Types of rack ceiling

The slatted ceiling consists of slats connected to each other with the help of corners and special profiles.

The material from which the slats are made can be different, both plastic and metal, but aluminum slatted ceilings are most often presented on the construction market.

Lath ceiling mounting scheme

For installation, special suspensions, mounting and starting profiles are produced, and their own, special, for each type of rails.

Rails for fastening rails, called stringers or traverses, are made of galvanized steel with a thickness of 0.6-0.7 mm and are available in several variations, especially for a particular ceiling (for German or Italian type rails, for open, closed or seamless). The shape of the traverse and grooves differ depending on the type and design of the rails.

To design the joint of the ceiling with the wall, a wall profile (starting) is produced.

It is of two types: P-profile and G-profile. The easiest way is to use the L-profile, but the U-shaped starting profile gives additional rigidity to the entire structure.

To attach the rack ceiling to the main draft one, you can use straight hangers, long self-tapping screws or special adjustable hangers (“euro hangers”).

If the draft ceiling is even, a direct suspension is sufficient. With such a suspension, you will get a rather rigid structure that is not adjustable in height.

If the draft ceiling is wooden, you can use long self-tapping screws, wrapping them through special holes in the traverse, which, as a rule, are located above the attachment points of the inserts. After all the rails are in place, you just need to tighten or loosen the screws to make the surface perfectly flat.

After that, you can snap the inserts.

Euro hangers are used when a large ceiling area is sewn up or multi-level ceilings are mounted. The use of euro hangers allows you to adjust the ceiling height up to 1500 mm, but for installation in residential premises, hangers up to 500 mm are most often used.

Rack ceilings are divided into several types:

• Open: a small gap of approximately 15 mm remains between the rails.

  Typically, such structures are installed in rooms with a height of at least 5 meters (shops, warehouses, etc.). For the installation of an open ceiling in residential premises, special filling profiles or inserts are used;

• Closed: the slats are fastened end-to-end according to the lining principle;
• Seamless: slats are attached end to end.

  With this method, high density and strength are ensured.

Reiki sold in our country most often have two types of design:

• German, the shape of the rail is rectangular, most often used to assemble an open ceiling with or without inserts;
• Italian, with a rounded shape of the rail, is used to create seamless ceilings.

The dimensions of the rails for the false ceiling vary: the width of the rails is 50-300 mm, the thickness is 0.4-0.7 mm, the length is from 3 to 6 m.

Rail color and finish

You can choose any color of slatted ceilings, from traditional white to avant-garde black, and when installing an open slatted ceiling with inserts, you can choose inserts in tone or in a contrasting color.

It is during installation that rails or inserts with a mirror coating of chrome or super-chrome or gold are often used.

Installing a slatted ceiling

Mirrored ceilings visually increase the height of the room. Metallic slats are used to create a high-tech interior.

The finish of the ceiling panels can be smooth (glossy or matte), textured (imitating almost any material) or perforated. The latter type is often used in rooms with high requirements for ventilation or sound insulation.

Advantages

Suspended ceilings made of aluminum have a number of undoubted advantages:

• Fire resistance, which allows the use of aluminum slatted ceilings in places with increased fire safety requirements;
• Resistance to moisture, which is indispensable in rooms with high humidity (kitchens, bathrooms, pools);
• Good light reflectance;
• Environmental friendliness (mold does not form on aluminum ceiling panels, slats do not emit any harmful substances into the atmosphere);
• Durability;
• Functionality (suspended ceilings are easy to install, hide engineering communications, there are no difficulties in repair and dismantling).

Assembly

In order to assemble a suspended ceiling with your own hands, you will need:

• slats;
• inserts (if necessary);
• traverses or stringers (tires for fixing rails);
• angular or U-shaped profile and hangers for attaching stringers (straight or adjustable);
• perforator drill and screwdriver;
• level (regular or laser);
• paint thread;
• a knife, metal shears or a hacksaw with a fine tooth;
• roulette;
• marker or pencil;
• self-tapping screws, dowels.

Mounting a rack ceiling

You can watch the video on the installation of the rack ceiling below:

First, decide on the location of the lamps or chandeliers.

If spotlights are provided in the ceiling, it will have to be lowered 12-15 cm from the draft ceiling. To fix the chandelier, install a hook in the draft ceiling or fix the embedded part (bar or thick plywood).

Then mark the mounting height. If the draft ceiling is even, it is enough to mark the height from it.

It is most reliable to mark the height from the floor. The best option would be to use a laser level. Mark the points on the wall in any way and draw a line with a marker along which the starting profile will be installed.

If the structure is installed on a tiled wall, it is better to navigate along the horizontal seams. Sometimes it happens that there is no exact horizontal along the tile joint, but it is still better to tie the ceiling to the tile, otherwise it will visually seem that the surface is skewed, even if in fact it is perfectly horizontal.

Cut the starting profiles to the size of the walls, mark the points for drilling holes for fastening and drill from the outside (if you drill from the wrong side, the burrs will prevent the profile from fitting snugly to the wall).

Then drill holes for the dowels in the wall. Pre-drill the tile with a special drill, otherwise it may crack. Fasten the start profiles to the wall. In the corners, you can overlap the profiles or cut them at an angle of 45º.

Decide on the direction of the rails on the ceiling and attach the guide profiles.

Mark the attachment points of the hangers, positioning them so that the distance between the traverses is no more than 120 cm, and the distance between the hangers on one traverse is 40-60 cm. Screw the traverses to the hangers.

Now you just have to snap the rails to the profiles, having previously removed the protective film from them. Work with gloves, as prints may remain on mirrored surfaces.

Try not to stain or scratch the coating of the rails. Do not forget to pre-make holes for spotlights by cutting them with metal scissors. Cut the outer rail to size by running a knife along the inside of the rail several times, and, cutting across the metal with scissors, break off pieces of the rail, bending and unbending them.

After all the rails are snapped to the traverses, correct the horizontal by twisting or loosening the suspensions, and snap the inserts into place.

Suspended rack ceiling is ready!

Slatted ceilings are widely used for finishing rooms with high humidity and pollution, such as kitchens, bathrooms, and laundry rooms.

The reason for their popularity is the lightness of the material, its durability, moisture resistance and ease of care.

We mount the rack ceiling with our own hands

Mounting it is also easy. To figure out how to assemble a rack ceiling, you must first understand what it is.

Rail material and ceiling design

Slatted ceilings consist of aluminum, steel, plastic slats (5 to 30 cm wide and 0.4-0.7 mm thick) and a suspension mounting system.

Laths are matte or glossy, smooth or textured and may differ in seams.

The way the rails are connected to each other is: open, closed and gapless.

The mounting system consists of the following parts:

• The carrier rail - combs - galvanized strips with locking teeth, under which the rails are inserted.

  The design of the edge of the rail is such that the bottom, hidden edge, snaps into place with a fastener, and the top, front one, covers it.

• Adjustable suspension consisting of a bracket attached to the comb and a rod attached to the base ceiling.
• Corner, wall, profile, which is needed to close the joint between the wall and the suspended ceiling.

The hanging height can be from 5 to 15 cm.

It cannot be less than 5 cm (4 cm is the tire width), but how much more depends on the size of the communications that are bred under the ceiling and the design solution.

It is necessary to decide whether the rails will be attached along or across the room. A long and narrow room with longitudinal slats on the ceiling will seem even longer and narrower.

Therefore, the decision must be made based on the dimensions of the room.

Mounting method for rack ceiling

Before figuring out how to assemble a rack ceiling, you need to stock up on the necessary tools. For work you will need:

• building level 1.2-1.6 m;
• ruler, tape measure;
• marker;
• sharp knife, metal scissors;
• dowels, self-tapping screws;
• drill.

How to assemble rack aluminum ceiling: Installation algorithm:

1. In the upper corner of the room at a distance of not less than 4 cm, we make a mark along which the rails will be attached.
2. Using a level, this mark must be moved around the entire perimeter of the room in increments of no more than 1 m.
3. We measure the length of the wall, parallel to which the strips will be mounted, mark and cut off the corner profile of the desired length.
4. We drill holes for fastening the profile - 5 cm from the wall and further every 50-60 cm.
5. We apply the profile to the marked line on the wall and through the holes we outline the attachment points.
6. We drill holes, apply a profile, insert dowels and fasten the profile on self-tapping screws.
7. We also attach the corner profile to the rest of the walls of the room.
8. We fix the carrier rail perpendicular to the wall along which the rails will go.

   With a tape measure, we measure a distance of 30-40 cm from the wall, and then every 90-100 cm - to the end of the wall. The distance from the tire to the corner profile should be about 1 m.

9. We strengthen the carrier rail with the help of suspensions. To do this, you need to attach it to the ceiling and mark the attachment points 30 cm to the left and right of the wall.

   Between them at a distance of 1-1.5 m we mark additional fasteners. We also make markings for all tires.

10. We punch holes at the marked points with a puncher, insert dowels into them.
11. The rail can be mounted directly to the ceiling or on adjustable hangers, depending on the required hanging height.
12. The length of the rack ceiling panels should be equal to the length (width) of the ceiling, less than 0.3-0.5 cm.

    We measure and cut the required number of panels.

13. We proceed to the installation of the panels: we first insert the panel diagonally, and then align it along the wall and snap it into place with the carrier rail clamps.
14. We insert the second behind the first rail, matching it along the seam with the previous one and so on to the opposite end of the wall.
15. The suspension height must be adjusted by the depth of the screwed-in screws or suspension adjustment (depending on which mounting option is chosen).
16. If the last rail does not completely fit in width, you will have to cut it: outline a line along which it will need to be cut with a sharp knife along the ruler.

    The rail must be bent and unbent along this line until it breaks along it. On a long rail, it is better to make cuts to the line and break off its extra half in parts.

17. The trimmed panel is installed under the corner profile, fixed in it with wooden spacers.

    The rack ceiling is ready.

If recessed fixtures are installed in the ceiling, then mark their location, make holes and insert the lamp housings in advance, and remove the wiring during installation.

03/20/2013 at 16:03

In modern construction, new methods of finishing are being introduced every day, and ceiling coverings are no exception. Finishing the ceiling with a rail is considered one of several options most used in both houses and apartments.

At first glance, it looks like a set of panels mounted on a profile.

Structural elements of the rack ceiling.

The panels themselves are made of aluminum material, which is coated with a multi-layer decorating coating. This type of suspended ceiling does not require finishing.

Today, the market is rich in a variety of choices of types of panels, shapes, different colors. And how to make a rack ceiling is an individual question for each builder.

Positive finishes

• the rack ceiling is designed so that the multi-layer processing allows you to easily and without problems wash the ceiling;
• not amenable to combustion, as it has anti-corrosion and chemical resistance;
• resists moisture due to the fact that it is made of aluminum;
• it is easy to mount ceiling lights, air conditioners, as well as ventilation grilles;
• improve the illumination of the room in daylight, as it has the properties of light reflection;
• rack ceiling is easy to mount;
• has a fairly low price.

Due to its positive qualities, this material can be used in rooms with high humidity.

Installing the ceiling from the rails

The typical shape and size of a rail for a closed type ceiling.

The installation of such a ceiling, like any other, must be carried out from the marking and measurement of the room in order to determine the required amount of material.

Along the perimeter of the room where the rack coating will be installed, the attachment points of the profile are marked.

So that the installation of the profile does not create problems, it is recommended to make openings on it at intervals of 30-40 cm, so that the material does not deform, holes must be made on it from the outside. This is required so that when drilling on the other side, there are no burrs left that will prevent the profile from adhering closely to the wall.

Consider the following:

1. Attach the U-shaped profile with dowels or self-tapping screws.
2. When installing the ceiling from the rails to the draft, stringers are installed, observing an interval of about 1.2 m.

   They are mounted in parallel.

3. Next, you need to make marks for suspensions. At the intersection of the profile connection with the stringer, the profile is cut with metal shears and folded back.
4. Stringers are hung on the suspensions and installed in the groove on the profile located at the end.
5. The ceiling rail is attached to the stringer with a latch located in the groove.
6. The installation of ceiling rails begins from the edge, leading diagonally into the profiles, then it is necessary to align and snap the stringer.
7. When all the rails are practically installed and only the last two remain, they will have to be cut before installation.

How to cut a ceiling rail

Rack ceiling design.

Before you start trimming, you need to note the distance of the cutting itself in the entire length of the rail.

When the marking is done, a cut is made with a knife from the beginning to the end along the cutting line, but it is not cut off to the end.

The second time, draw the knife along this line more strongly.

To avoid deformation of the rail, the part to be cut off is cut with scissors 25-30 cm each, bending the pieces in turn and breaking them off. The rail that has been trimmed is installed so that the trimmed side is located against the wall.

The last final rail is made shorter than all by about 14 cm, one of its edges is inserted into the end profile until it rests. Next, the reverse end is inserted into the opposite profile and snapped into place.

Installation of fixtures in the ceiling from the rail

Before you start installing the ceiling from the rail, you need to decide on the lighting.

During the installation of such a system, lighting installation becomes problem No. 1.

For ceilings of this type, spotlights are most suitable.

1. Luminaires must be selected depending on the area of ​​​​the room, on the distance at which the slatted ceiling will be in relation to the draft, and, of course, on the necessary lighting.
2. The ceiling itself is usually lowered by the size of the lamp with a margin of 1 cm. This is the distance necessary to ventilate the cartridge in order to avoid its malfunction.
3. Spotlights come in different modifications and are made for different types of light bulbs and different types of cartridges.
4. When installing fixtures in the bathroom and toilets, products with halogen bulbs are usually used.

   The size of such structures is much smaller than it is possible to allow a slight lowering of the rack ceiling during their installation.

5. For the installation of these fixtures, 6-8 cm of space between the draft and suspended ceilings is enough.

The first thing to do before installing fixtures in a false ceiling is to wire.

For this process, it is necessary to dismantle the old wires, which must be extended to connect new fixtures. The extension itself is carried out by ordinary twisting, but when joining the metal, a homogeneous element is used (for example, aluminum with aluminum).

However, modern industry produces clamps with which it is possible to connect metals of different composition. At the intended location of the fixtures, the wires are fixed with the help of dowel-clamps.

Some Features

When connecting spotlights, special terminals are used, which are clamped with a screwdriver, or terminals for chandeliers, using which it will not be difficult to replace the cartridge in case of breakage.

After wiring, you need to install clamps on it and check the quality of work using a test lamp.

If, after checking, the wiring works smoothly, then the lamp holders are connected to the clamps, and only then the rack ceiling is installed.

The suspended ceiling itself is made of aluminum, in connection with this, the holes for the lamps are made before the installation of the rails.

Holes can be made with a regular knife, cutting out the size of the circumference of the lamp itself on the panel.

And it is possible in another way. To do this, the lamp itself is applied to the rail and outlined with a pencil along the inner contour, a hole is made inside the resulting circle with scissors and a hole is cut out in a spiral.

The luminaire, as a rule, should be in the center of the panel for ease of installation. You can also mount the lamp below, and then install the already completed panel on the ceiling.

Master class: do-it-yourself installation of a rack ceiling

When the installation of the ceiling covering is completed along with the lamps, the lamps are screwed in and the full serviceability of the lighting system is checked.

So, how to make a rack ceiling depends on the tastes of the owners and the size of the room. Good luck building!

batten ceiling

For the homeowner, the adoption of water procedures is relaxation, for the bathroom ceiling - the load caused by high humidity. How to combine the requirements for good looks and splash and steam resistance? Easy - install a rack ceiling.

Panel structures are a type of suspended ceilings.

They consist of a frame fixed on the ceiling and rails made of plastic or metal attached to it. Thanks to hanging panels, you can not only create a fresh and interesting design of the room, but also improve its lighting in many ways, using built-in spotlights in various combinations. Moreover, slatted ceilings are quite simple and can even be mounted independently.

Initial data

The ceiling in the bathroom is constantly under the influence of moisture and steam, settling in the form of condensate.

Often it gets splashed from the shower. Therefore, it is moisture resistance that is the key parameter when choosing the material from which the suspended structure will be made. A coating that does not resist moisture is doomed - after a while it will begin to either delaminate, or mold from the "invasion" of fungi and bacteria, or rust (relevant for metal surfaces).

To meet modern standards, the material for the ceiling in the bathroom must meet other requirements: reflect light well, absorb sound, be easy to clean, be environmentally friendly, and not support combustion.

To varying degrees, all these requirements are met by plastic and aluminum. It is from them that most of the rack ceilings are made.

Plastic or aluminum?

When planning the finish, the first thing to do is to decide on the answer to the main question - what material will the slats be made of. To do this, consider the main advantages and disadvantages of each option.

PLASTIC:
- relatively cheap;
- easier to install (more flexible, easier to cut by hand);
- less susceptible to pollution (stains from water and steam);
- easier to wash.

- uncomplicated in terms of decorative qualities (looks cheap);
- more fragile, therefore demanding for transportation and storage;
- can melt and even support combustion, while emitting acrid smoke;
- it is difficult to identify a really high-quality product that will not fade or deform over time.

ALUMINUM:
— strong and durable;
- does not support combustion and does not melt;
- has a higher reflection coefficient;
- can be mirrored and glossy, made in gold or silver;
- allows you to create ceilings of more complex multi-level forms.

- more expensive than plastic
- a little more difficult to install;
- less resistant to stains and stains from splashes and steam;
- more demanding in care.

In principle, if there are no strict requirements for minimizing the budget, it is better to give preference to more beautiful and durable aluminum ceilings.

The installation rules for aluminum and plastic rails are identical, especially if you use a power tool - a jigsaw (to adjust the length and width of the strips) or a drill with crowns (to create holes for lamps).

The main thing is to choose the right consumables that will correspond to the rigidity of the structure being processed.

Undeniable advantages

Why do many homeowners prefer slatted ceilings? Because they have a number of positive characteristics:
- affordable price;
— a wide range of design proposals; no need for surface preparation;
- the ability to hide communications (electrical wiring, ventilation ducts) behind the casing;
- ease of self-assembly and dismantling;
— absence of wet processes during installation;
— readiness for operation immediately after installation;
- elementary care (normal washing);
- long service life - from 20 years.

Panel selection

Reiki differ in width, height, panel and edge shape, texture, color.

The maximum length is 6 m, which is enough for most bathrooms. If necessary, the sections can be extended, although a small joint will still be visible. To reduce the amount of waste, if possible, it is better to contact the company that offers the sale of panels to the length required for each individual customer.

The width of the sheets ranges from 5 to 30 cm. The larger it is, the fewer rails will have to be fixed, however, from the point of view of aesthetics, this option is not suitable for everyone.

Models with a width of 10-15 cm are in the greatest demand.

Aluminum rails are made from sheets with a thickness of 0.3 to 0.6 mm. The thicker the material, the stronger the ceiling, 0.5 mm is the best choice and a guarantee that the strips will keep their shape and not deform. Unlike aluminum, plastic slats are made not solid, but honeycomb - hollow.

A sufficient total thickness of such a panel is 8-10 mm.

According to the shape and the corresponding type of installation, there are two types of planks that are suitable for bathrooms in private homes:
- closed slats resemble a lining, since during installation they go behind each other, tightly docking;
- with inserts - open slats, which are used together with additional narrow strips that close the voids between the slats.

Thus, the tightness of the ceiling coating is ensured.

Lath ceiling scheme

The principle of the rack ceiling device involves the use of a special "toothed" frame - the link between the ceiling and the finishing cladding. However, this in no way complicates either the selection process or the installation of the structure.

Frame components and face rails, as well as diagrams with mounting recommendations, are available from a single vendor. Fasteners (dowels, screws) are the only thing that you may need to buy additionally.

Components of the rack ceiling:
1. Main and intermediate panels.

2. Stringers (rails are attached to them).

How to make a rack ceiling

3. Knitting needles (with their help, the rack ceiling is suspended from the ceiling by the stringers).
4. Closing end profile (located along the junction of walls and ceiling). The minimum distance from the floor to the false ceiling is 5 cm, the maximum is unlimited.

According to the shape of the planks, they are divided into "Italian" and "German".

The corners of the first are rounded, the second are rectangular. In terms of performance, they are identical. Regarding design preferences, the most popular are white and mirror panels. They expand the space in some way, compensating for the volume that will be taken for the installation of the frame and the laying of communications for lighting fixtures.

Preparing for installation

To install the ceiling, you will need the following tool: laser and spirit levels; drill or puncher with drills for concrete, brick, wood (based on the material of walls and ceilings); nozzle (crown) for cutting holes for lamps; jigsaw with a blade for plastic or aluminum (depending on the type of rails); screwdriver; felt-tip pen; ruler.

You also need to take care to purchase goggles that protect against dust when drilling, and light fabric gloves so that fingerprints do not remain on the panels.

Rails, side rails, frame components and fasteners (screws, dowels) are best bought in one store. This will not only save time, but will also ensure that the entire structure will consist of elements specifically designed for each other.

The bathroom does not require any special preparation - just take out all the things that interfere with free movement. Outwardly, the overlap itself can look like anything, anyway, the slats will hide it. The main thing is that it does not “crumble” and that there is no mold and fungus on it that will continue to multiply.

If a major overhaul of the bathroom will be carried out, then it is worth starting from the ceiling, then finishing the walls and completing the process with a floor device.

At the same time, you need to take into account that it is better not to hang the rails right away - you just need to assemble the entire frame and carry out communications that will be hidden behind the ceiling. The panels are mounted at the very end, when all wet and dirty processes are completed.

Carrying out work

1. The first step is to designate the perimeter along which the end profile will be mounted.

If the floors and walls are even, then you can measure with a simple ruler from the ceiling a distance sufficient to accommodate lighting fixtures. A spirit level is used to control measurements. But since not all bathrooms can boast of the accuracy of wall structures, it is better to use a laser self-leveling level to mark the perimeter.

The result of these "events" should be a closed line drawn on the walls with a pencil or a washable felt-tip pen.

2. Installation of the end profile is carried out on dowels driven into the wall every 30-50 cm. did not slip).

It is important to check if the drill has an impact function that can lead to cracking. For the same reason, you should not drill at the edge and at the junctions of blocks. When the hole in the tile is ready, you can change the drill to a coarser one that matches the material of the wall.

3. The end profile is designed to hide the edges of the planks, the main bearing load is taken by the suspensions attached to the ceiling. They are placed every meter, fixing on dowels. Additional fasteners are installed in places under the lamps.

4. Carrier tires (stringers) are fixed to the suspensions on the screws. As a result, a frame will be obtained on the ceiling, consisting of several parallel rails with a meter distance between them.

5. The main rails of the ceiling are hung on the tires, manually fixing them in the combs of the frame. In parallel, during installation, holes for lamps are cut out in the corresponding strips. It is important that the lamp is in the center of the canvas and does not go beyond the edge - then it will be easier to fix the elements, and the whole structure will remain tight. Often the last rail does not fit in width - then it needs to be cut along the entire length.

6. When the ceiling is ready, the bathroom is cleaned and the ceiling is thoroughly washed. If necessary (for example, replacing a damaged part), part or all of the structure is just as easy to disassemble by dismantling the ceiling strips one by one.

Lighting

For installation in a false ceiling, luminaires are suitable, the protection class of which allows use in wet rooms (IP 44 - protection against splashes; IP 55 - protection against a direct jet of water).

Electrical wiring must be laid in corrugated pipes, and all contacts are securely insulated.

The design and laying of networks under the lamps are carried out before the installation of the rack ceiling.

Before installing the latter, the finished wiring should already “hang” on the floor. Often, energy-efficient and halogen light bulbs with reflectors are used for lighting.

The most daring design decisions in the decoration of residential premises cannot be carried out without paying special attention to the ceiling. Oddly enough, but 80% of the guests and relatives who came to look at the repair you completed, fix their eyes on it.

Undoubtedly, they are one of the best options for finishing shower ceilings, bathrooms, kitchens and corridors. The advantages of such suspension systems include the ease of assembly of the structure and their lightness (its total weight is implied). This can significantly reduce the time for general repairs.

Under it is very easy to hide any ceiling communications. You can easily install any lighting devices in it. This video will show options for placing lighting fixtures.

The ceilings are made of aluminum by cold stamping, covered with special paints and protective varnish. Mounting structures also undergo special processing (anodizing). This protects the slatted ceilings from corrosion and the destruction of elements from moisture.

What are rack suspension systems

There are two options for installing rack ceilings in a room:

• Installation of open-type slatted ceilings
• Installation of rack ceilings of the closed type

The closed type includes a suspended metal frame on which aluminum panels are mounted. A spacer insert is installed in the gap between the panels. In width, they are much narrower than the main rails (16 mm) and may have a different color from them.

Unlike the closed type, the rack open ceiling does not provide for filling the inter-rack space. Such a ceiling has good ventilation and eliminates the appearance of water condensate on the inner surface of the aluminum rails.

Important to remember! The use of inexpensive galvanized is not recommended in rooms with high humidity. Such ceilings are subject to corrosion and over time, rust appears on their surface. This will spoil the appearance of the entire ceiling. Rust will also shorten the life of the suspended rack ceiling.

Calculation of component materials for a suspended ceiling

To do in any room, read the simple rules:

• The number of wall corner is equal to the perimeter of the room
• The distance between the carrier rails is not more than 1.2 m.
• Universal hangers are attached to floor slabs with a step of 0.3 m
• The ceiling rail must lie on the shelf of the wall corner with a gap of no more than 5 mm and no less than 3 mm from the wall
• The total area of ​​the ceiling rails and inserts must be equal to the area of ​​the existing ceiling.

• Width
• Height
• The axis of the bearing tires and the distance between them
• Mounting points for universal hangers
• Points of location of lighting devices

Fastening of all elements of the frame to the walls and ceiling should be done with dowel-nails quick installation of 6 x 40 mm. Their number is just as easy to calculate. The wall corner is fixed in increments of 35 - 40 cm. One dowel-nail is used to fasten one universal suspension.

Assembly tool kit

Before you need to assemble the following tool:

1. Laser or water level
2. Rule with a level of 1.5 m, pencil (softness of the TM lead is recommended), measuring tape, ruler
3. Bulgarian or hacksaw
4. Electric impact drill or hammer drill
5. Drills with a diameter of 6 mm for working with concrete, metal and tiles, if it is laid on the walls
6. Hammer
7. A set of crowns for metal (according to the diameter of the recessed luminaire)

Marking the future ceiling

Slatted ceilings in any room can be done after the walls are finished (painting or wallpaper). The level of the ceiling from the rails is lowered to an arbitrary height. In this case, do-it-yourself spotlights will be installed.

To do this, the ceiling level must be lowered to the height of the lamp. Do not forget to add a gap of +1 cm - this is a technological tolerance that is calculated for lighting wires connected to the device.

With a ruler and a pencil, we mark from the existing ceiling (usually a concrete slab). Using a laser or water level, we mark (focusing on the first mark - a benchmark) on the walls the horizontal plane of the future rack ceiling. With the help of a pencil and a ruler, we connect the marks along the perimeter of the room (for large rooms it is convenient to use a coloring chop paint thread).

Important to remember! If the rack ceiling is installed in rooms where the walls are tiled, the ceiling level should not fall on the tile joint. When drilling holes for the wall corner, this can cause the destruction of the tile.

Installation of wall angle profile

On the wall corner in the center of the vertical shelf, we mark the places of the holes with a pencil. This must be done in increments of 35-40 cm. Holes are drilled with a drill and a drill for metal.

The corner is applied to the wall and marks for dowels are placed along the previously marked line with a pencil. It's important to know! To do this, you need to use a special drill (for concrete). Having finished drilling, install plastic dowels in the holes and fix the wall corner.

There is an installation video at the end of this article that will show you how to practically fix the wall corner.

Installation of universal hangers

Parallel lines (stringer axes) are applied to the ceiling with a step of 1.2 m with a pencil and a ruler. This must be done based on the sketch of the room. On the marked axes with a step of 0.3 m put the attachment points of the suspensions.

According to the marked points on the axes of the location of the stringers, the suspensions are fastened. With a drill and a drill for concrete, holes are drilled in the floor slabs. Dowels are hammered into them with a hammer.

The universal suspension consists of a knitting needle with a loop bent at an angle of 90 degrees and a knitting needle with a hook for hanging a universal tire. They are interconnected by a rigid band spring. This allows you to easily adjust the height of the suspension with your own hands. Through the loop, the suspension is attached with a dowel-nail to the floor slab. This video will show you how to attach and adjust the universal gimbal.

Installation of bearing profiles (stringers)

A stringer is mounted on the hooks of the hangers. Holes (notches) are provided on it for fastenings. If necessary, it is cut to size with a grinder. The level of the profile is adjusted by the spokes of the suspensions.

The panels are cut to size with a grinder. In places where spotlights should be located, holes are cut out. This should be done with a crown for metal (nozzle for a drill). Lighting devices are inserted into them with a rhinestone. Reiki snap into grooves on the stringers.

To complete the image of our rack ceiling, we install inserts in the inter-rack space. Cut-to-size caps snap into the groove between the decorative ceiling slats (panels). A suspended ceiling has been installed in your home. A video on the installation and installation of a rack ceiling with your own hands will visually acquaint you with the work described above.

In our time, it is rarely necessary to rely on something other than yourself. When repairs begin in the house, they must make repairs in the bathroom, toilet. In addition to laying tiles, floors, plastic panels, installing all the necessary equipment, the repair of the ceiling begins. In rooms with high humidity, not many types of ceilings can be installed, most often they stop at the installation of suspended structures, they withstand high levels of humidity and temperature, while they last a very long time and maintain the level of hygiene as high as possible, it can be treated with chemicals. It is unable to collapse from dampness, fungus, rust, it happens in the toilet, so the installation of a slatted ceiling is recommended by many experts. In addition to a large number of advantages, the rack ceiling is quite inexpensive, so it will not hit your overall family budget.

The first step is to consider what your bathroom will look like, what kind of walls it will have, what color of the ceiling you will do and what the layout of the panels will be. When you have decided on the types and colors of the material, you can proceed to the first stage of work on the installation of a false ceiling.

The instruction for carrying out any work related to repair and construction states that it is correct to carry out the work, it is necessary to correctly draw and plan:

• first measure the total perimeter in the bathroom, understand what kind of U-shaped profile you need to fix on the walls, along the perimeter of the ceiling to fix the stringers. Put it on the plan;
• how the required profile size for fasteners is calculated, you can begin to calculate what rails are needed, how long the comb should have. The amount in which you need a comb for the design to be complete. Produced on the drawing. To correctly calculate the number of stringers, it is necessary to mark the ceiling perpendicular to where the decorative panels are directed. The step between them should be up to 1 meter;
• how the amount is calculated, you need to determine the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling surface in order to know on what area the rack ceiling is being installed.

This is done so that during the purchase of building materials, you can rely on calculations for which total area you need slats and other components of the false ceiling. Please note that when creating a plan, take into account the directions of the lines created by the junction of the battens. Their location most often goes from the window to the end wall of the room. The arrangement of the lines creates the main visual effect of narrowing or expanding the room. If you have a square bathroom, then diagonal stripes look the most beautiful.

List of tools and materials

Once the markup is done, you can safely go to the building materials store to purchase everything you need. Usually in one store - you can immediately purchase tools and materials. Here is a list of what to buy:

• rails, stringers, profiles, comb;
• be sure to purchase small suspension elements;
• most likely, you will need a hammer drill, drill, screwdriver;
• in order for the workflow to be most pleasant and of high quality, you will need a marker, a water level, a tape measure, a metal ruler, a knife;
• dowels, self-tapping screws are needed for fastenings.

Please note that if the room is too large, then most likely you will have to splice the panels. In this case, the kit will include intermediate interpanel liners. They make the joint neat and visually beautiful.

Accessories for slatted ceiling

Materials for metal profile

Markup instructions

When the ceiling plan in the bathroom is ready, the necessary things are bought and ready to go, you can proceed to the important stage - the working marking of the ceiling. Of course, it should be understood that the installation of a suspended structure can only be done when the tiles, walls and equipment are fully installed and ready for use. The layout of the structure on the floor can be made. The layout will help identify flaws.

During marking, the entire perimeter is marked with a marker, along which a U-shaped profile is installed, while using the building level. If your ceiling in the bathroom or toilet is installed qualitatively and completely even, in horizontal projection, then the whole process of working layout will be noticeably simplified. You are unlikely to have any difficulties, they may appear if you decide to place a multi-level rack ceiling with your own hands. Do not forget to strictly follow the pre-prepared drawing of the overall design of the ceiling.

Even at the drawing stage, you need to think about what the design will be, what distance will be between the false ceiling and the ceiling, how many lamps you will place in it.

All electrical cables must be fixed

As the markup is applied, you need to put marks under the stringers. The lines must be strictly perpendicular to the end of the room and each of the finishing panels.

Fixing the profile and fixing parts

First of all, during fixing, it is necessary that the supporting structure is fixed according to the markup. It is necessary to fix the U-shaped profile according to the markup, which will be the main bearing element of the entire structure. Use dowels, they will most qualitatively help to fix the profile on the ceiling. Then, retreating from the edges of the profile by 50 millimeters, drill holes with a drill prepared in advance for this purpose. Between the edges of the fasteners, make holes at a distance of 500 millimeters from each other. Do not forget that it is necessary to drill from the outside of the profile. This will avoid the occurrence of burrs, which can not only injure your hands, but can also create a gap between the profile and the wall, which will negatively affect the overall design of the suspended ceiling.

Mounting traverses

When the profile is fully fixed, prepare, coordinating your actions with the markup and drawing, places for suspensions. Modern manufacturing companies offer a variety of hangers for suspended structures, from easy-to-install plates to less popular wire. But today, adjustable suspensions are considered the most convenient of the suspensions offered by hardware stores, thanks to their system, it is possible to precisely level the ceiling surface, which is often obtained with bumps, depressions, pits.

Profile fixing

Profile fixing in the corner

Mounted perimeter

We begin fixing - place the extreme points at 300-400 millimeters from the end wall, intermediate at a distance of 120-150 centimeters from each other. Now you can fix the stringers. Stringers are rails with grooves to which the slatted panels of the suspended slatted ceiling are attached. Choose stringers that will allow you to create a gap between the profile and them 10 millimeters. In order not to wonder how to disassemble the slatted ceiling, when due to temperature changes in the bathroom or toilet there will be a slight deformation of the material. Now, perhaps, the structure has been assembled, which should be mounted carefully.

Finished metal frame

Assembly and arrangement of the rack ceiling

The first step in assembling the false ceiling structure in the bathroom, toilet and any other room is cutting the panels to the length required according to the drawing for insertion into the profile. Or measure the distance between the panels and make them 5 millimeters shorter than this distance. It is very convenient to cut the elements with a knife, you can use other construction tools that you purchased in advance. Once the panels are ready to assemble the structure, you can proceed to it. Let's figure out how to make a slatted ceiling with your own hands without involving specialists in the field of repair work.

Each rail is neatly fastened

Fastening rails to the frame

To begin with, we insert the first panel: having brought the extreme part of the first panel into the groove of the profile, we introduce it in the opposite direction with a reverse movement. You can insert the following. We insert the panel into the stringer until you hear a click. He reports that the tongue of the tire has fixed the edge. Thus, we insert the rails inside the panel. The insertion of the rails must be carried out carefully. Installing a rack ceiling, in fact, is a simple matter and can be done independently, without the involvement of specialists. No one can do this job better than professionals. The assembly and installation instructions will not replace the accumulated hands, thanks to it the assembly will be better.

When the slats are inserted, it may turn out that the edge panel does not fit, since its width is less than necessary. In this case, you will need to trim the excess width to fit the remaining distance. This will allow you to complete the assembly of the suspended ceiling with high quality. Mark along the length of the rail with a knife, using a ruler. The marking depth should be small. On the part of the rail that you will be removing, make cuts perpendicular to the marking, which, with the help of perturbation (flexion and extension), are separated from the resulting rail. By breaking off the excess part in pieces, you will make smooth edges that will not spoil the visual quality of the ceiling.

Lighting

It is worth considering in advance where the lamps and other lighting elements will be installed. For this type of ceiling are best suited:

• LED lamps - they will emphasize the elements of decor and create an atmosphere of modernity;
• fluorescent lamps create high-quality lighting in a classic simple style;
• spotlights will create an atmosphere of home comfort.

Wiring is carried out during the fixation of parts and the installation of the carrier profile. The lighting fixtures themselves are installed during assembly. Lighting must be installed in accordance with the ceiling structure so that no wiring elements are damaged during installation with bolts or other fasteners. Handle electronics with care.

Wiring is carried out during the installation of the frame

Check the operation of the lighting fixtures and, if they work correctly, we can assume that the installation of the slatted ceiling in the bathroom or toilet has been completed - it is fully ready for operation. As you can see, mounting the ceiling in the toilet is not at all difficult and the design does not require any significant effort at all, the main thing is to know how to mount or how to disassemble the slatted ceiling in the toilet and bathroom and then there will be no problems during operation.

When decorating the interior of residential premises, many prefer slatted ceilings. The popularity of such structures is explained by high quality, practical, operational characteristics, a wide variety of textures and textures. Installation is not difficult even for beginners. The main thing is to adhere to the technology and the sequence of work. As an illustrative example, thematic videos are presented, which show the assembly of a slatted ceiling.

How to assemble a rack ceiling?

Benefits of slatted ceilings

The rack ceiling is suitable for interior decoration of bathrooms, kitchens, hallways, office centers, swimming pools, garages. The high degree of moisture resistance of the material allows it to be used for arranging verandas, gas stations, and summer areas. How beautiful the rack ceiling looks in design, you can see in the videos on interior design.

Advantages of rack structures:

• resistance to temperature changes;
• moisture resistance;
• long operational resource;
• simple installation, fast installation;
• ease of care;
• versatility.

The rack ceiling is not afraid of leaks due to the complete tightness of the structure. Each rail fits snugly against the other. Before installation, the rough ceiling surface does not need to be plastered and puttied. It is enough to dismantle the old coating.

The main advantage is the simple installation of rack ceiling structures, as you can see by studying the video.

Important! If you plan to install the ceiling in rooms with high humidity, it is recommended to pre-treat the draft ceiling with an antifungal compound.

Installation / installation of rack ceilings is carried out after the completion of the finishing of wall surfaces.

The most in demand aluminum. Aluminum fits well into any interior concept, has dust-repellent properties, is moisture resistant, and is easy to clean from dirt. It is easy to cut the aluminum panel in case of fitting the rails to the desired size. Installation of the ceiling is shown in the video.

Suspended rack ceiling during installation takes 10-15 cm in height. Compensate for the loss of usable space in small rooms will help the correct selection of colors, textures, textures. It is worth giving preference to light colors and a mirror surface.

Features of the rack ceiling

The rack ceiling consists of ceiling panels (battens), which are made of sheets 0.4–0.7 mm thick (steel, aluminum, plastic) 5–30 cm wide, 3–6 m long. You can place an order for the manufacture of a ceiling structure according to individual measurements. Cut the panels to the desired size and on their own, using scissors for metal.

The composition of the suspension system: load-bearing tires (stringer, traverse), corner profiles, adjustable suspensions. Stringer - a galvanized steel profile with "teeth" for which ceiling strips are attached. Each type of panel has its own stringer.

Important! To avoid gaps during the installation of the ceiling structure, it is recommended to purchase traverses and rails from the same company.

The suspension has brackets fixed to the traverse, and a rod that will be fixed to the base surface. The most convenient for work is an adjustable suspension that allows you to perfectly level the surface of the ceiling structure. When performing installation, it is quite possible to determine the distance to the suspension system and the main surface of the base base yourself.

The rail is fixed to the base ceiling by a system of suspensions and rails with special fasteners for profiles.

All the main elements of the rack ceiling structure are made of aluminum using cold stamping technology. The rail is painted with powder coloring compositions that protect the structure from negative factors.

Types of river ceilings

The ceiling panel (rail) is perforated, rounded, rectangular, matte, glossy, can have a different texture, color, which will allow you to choose a rack ceiling for any interior style. Panels, decorative inserts of the same color scheme create a harmonious space.

The design of suspended rack ceilings is determined by the type of panels (open, closed type). In the open version, there are gaps between the rails of approximately 0.15 mm. Installation of the ceiling structure is completed by fixing decorative inserts in the places where gaps form. The rack ceiling can be installed without gaps. With closed joints, the panels overlap each other and are fixed with tongues. Inserts are not required.

When choosing rails, pay attention to their size:

1. Panels are produced in lengths of three to four meters. If it becomes necessary to purchase the right size, check before buying if the machine is for cutting.
2. The panel can have a width of 10-20 cm. The best option for small spaces is 10 cm slats.
3. In order for the ceiling to have sufficient strength and keep its shape well, the rail must have a thickness of at least 0.5 mm.

Installation, diagram of the rack ceiling structure

In order to properly install the rack ceiling on your own, we recommend that you watch the video before starting work. Installation is not particularly difficult even for beginners. Detailed instructions and a diagram will be given that will help to install the rack ceiling in accordance with all the rules.

Before starting installation, you need to prepare:

• hydraulic level;
• pliers;
• pencil;
• screwdriver;
• scissors for cutting metal.

Installation of a slatted false ceiling can be done at any distance from the base one. Use adjustable hangers. Rack suspended ceiling systems can even be mounted back to back. The gap will be 0.4 cm, which will be equal to the thickness of the tire.

Installation begins with an inspection of the base base, marking for the installation of the guide rail. Using a hydraulic level, the place of the future ceiling is marked along the entire perimeter, stepping back 10-15 cm from the base. Draw a horizontal line, as shown in the video, which is a guideline for attaching guide profiles. The start and end points of the line must match.

The standard length of the profiles is 3 m. With metal shears, you can achieve the desired length. How to cut a panel is shown in the video. After marking, the profile is mounted. Measure the length of the wall, cut off the profile of the desired size. If there are no holes in the profile, they are drilled with a drill. The first hole is drilled at a distance of 45–50 mm from the wall surface, the subsequent holes are drilled at 40–55 cm each.

A profile is applied to the intended line and holes for dowels are drilled in all walls. The profile is “sit down” on self-tapping screws, fixing it end-to-end at the inner corners, at the outer corners - at an inclination of 45 degrees.

Installation of hangers

With a marker, using a tape measure, mark where the traverses will be fixed. The first mark is applied at a distance of 35 cm from the wall surface, the next - in increments of 80–95 cm. The suspension is fixed with hardware. Check the position with a hydraulic level.

The next stage is fixing, fastening the load-bearing tires. In order for the design to turn out to be perfectly even, errors should not be allowed. With a small distance from the base, it is permissible to mount the stringer directly on the rough surface.

The stringer is installed perpendicular to the panels, on the same level with the profile, which is fixed along the perimeter. The mounting of the carrier rail to the suspensions is carried out with a screwdriver. A gap of 1 cm is left between the stringer and the corner profile. If the stringer is short, the suspension is fixed at the beginning of the traverse. The next stringer is attached end-to-end with the previous one.

After mounting the carrier bar, especially if an adjustable hanger has been used, check with a tape measure how level the stringer is. All elements must be located horizontally, parallel to the X, Y, Z line axes.

Mounting process

Before installing the rack ceiling structure, prepare the rails of the desired length by first taking measurements. Measure the distance between the wall surfaces transverse to the axis where the traverses are located. A marker draws a line on the inner surface of the bar along which the rail will be cut. Scissors cut off curved corners. By notching, bending and unbending the panel, remove the extra piece.

The panel is freed from the protective film, cut to the desired size. The rail is inserted into the guides and snaps into the traverse clamps until a characteristic click is heard. Each subsequent bar must be installed next to the previous one.

The height of the traverse can be adjusted by changing the screwing depth of the hardware, but only if the stringer is fixed to the base base. An adjustable suspension will help you change the height.

If the last panel does not fit in the remaining space, it is cut to size. Deep cut marks are applied along the entire length with a knife. Perpendicular cuts are made on the removed segment. You need to cut the panel very carefully, trying not to damage it. The rail enters the profile with a cut-off part, the other end of the bar is attached to the tongues of the traverse.

Important! The penultimate panel (rail) should be 13 mm shorter than the others.

Installation of rack suspended structures involves the installation of inserts, if they are included. The finished look of the design will give the plinth. They will hide the joints between the wall surfaces and the ceiling. For uneven walls, wide skirting boards are used, as shown in the video.

Suspended ceiling is one of the most rational finishing solutions for rooms with a high base level. There are many varieties of suspension systems: these are Armstrong panels, stretch ceilings, and plasterboard cladding. In rooms with high humidity, the installation of anti-corrosion systems is relevant. These are aluminum slatted ceilings. How to make a rack ceiling? It is better to entrust complex wavy or oblique-angled structures to professionals, but any home craftsman can perform a simple lining with slats.

Choice of rack ceiling

The construction market offers a wide selection of rack ceilings from various manufacturers. According to the type of installation, they are divided into 3 types: open, closed and gapless. Open mounted with gaps between the strips of 14-16 mm. They are installed in rooms with a height of at least 5 m, most often in trading floors. Closed ones are arranged according to the principle of lining boards: the slats go behind each other. Gapless are installed end-to-end without gaps.

When buying, you should pay attention to the parameters of the rails. The length should be chosen such that when cutting there is as little waste as possible. The width of the panels varies from 9 to 20 cm. For small rooms it is better to choose narrow panels, for spacious ones - wide ones. The thickness of the slats is an indicator of strength and reliability, but thicker and more expensive. For installation in an apartment, panels with a thickness of about 0.5 mm are considered optimal.

Reiki may have some design differences. Rectangular edges are typical for German products, rounded - for Italian. Wave-like curved panels are suitable for the embodiment of bold design ideas.

The color scheme of the rails can be any, but the most common shades are: white, black, metallic, gold, chrome (with a mirror surface).

In addition to the rails themselves, the kit should include:

• guides;
• adjustable suspensions;
• wall plinths;
• installation instructions.

It is important to ensure that the guide rails and panels are from the same manufacturer. Otherwise, you may encounter insoluble installation problems and end up with a poor-quality ceiling with slots. The kit is designed for a certain area. When facing large areas, it is more profitable to buy large sets: in total they will cost less. Sold rails must have a protective coating.

Despite the design features of one or another type of rails, their installation is basically similar. In order to make the ceiling rack, you will need:

• roulette;
• level;
• long line;
• marker;
• perforator;
• drill;
• metal scissors;
• home tool;
• fasteners (dowels, screws).

Back to index

Mounting a rack ceiling

1. Work begins with markup. In the corner of the room from the draft ceiling, the distance is measured at the level of which the cladding will be performed. It should be at least 4 cm. However, if you plan to install built-in lights, then you need to make an allowance of 1 cm.
2. A line is drawn from the starting mark along the entire perimeter of the wall. Its horizontal position is determined by the level.
3. Further along the mark, the installation of the wall plinth is carried out. It is cut to length and applied to the line to mark the fastening. The first points from the corners are located at a distance of 5 cm, the next - in increments of 30-40 cm. The wall plinth is fastened with self-tapping screws and dowels.
4. After installation along the entire perimeter of the wall of the wall plinth, guides (stringers) are installed. With a small indent from the ceiling, they can be attached directly to it. If the distance is large, then use suspensions. Suspensions are fixed with driven anchors. Extreme suspensions are placed at a distance of 30-40 mm from the wall. The rest are mounted in increments of 1.2 m. Stringers are attached perpendicular to the planned direction of the rails.
5. Reiki are cut along the length of the wall, parallel to which they will be installed. In this case, you need to give an allowance of 5 cm.
6. The installation of the first rail is simple: it is angled behind the plinth, aligned and fixed to the stringers with special locks.
7. After installing the first rail, you need to install the rail on the opposite side. The size of the room is unlikely to match the size of the whole number of rails. The end will have to be cut. The trimmed rail is wedged with a spacer or simply laid on the wall plinth without fixing.
8. The installation of the remaining rails is carried out similarly to the first. Some difficulties can be caused by laying the last plank. It will not work to get it behind the plinth at an angle. It is recommended to cut it to a length slightly greater than the distance between the skirting boards. Then, when moving back and forth, you can push the rail all the way under one plinth, lift it and lead it behind the opposite one.