Rules for sheltering roses. How to protect a rose bush from frost: preparing flowers for winter Actual questions about hilling roses with earth

The first thing to do to protect roses is to spud all the bushes until the moment when frosts begin at night and the temperature drops below -3 ° C. If these frosts have already been noted, then hilling roses is prohibited. Otherwise, it will cause the plants to die. In such a situation, it is only allowed to use air-dry type shelters to protect spray roses in the winter.

Before hilling, it is necessary to remove all leaves from the lower parts of the shoots and spray them with Bordeaux or Burgundy liquid (its 1-2% solution is used).

It is necessary to start hilling in mid-September (in the northwestern part of Russia) with such land in which there are no residues of inorganic origin that have not decomposed. The size of the bushes directly affects the height of earthen mounds. If the roses are undersized, then they are spud up to 10 centimeters in height, if they are tall, then up to 35 centimeters.

In order not to accidentally expose the root system of plants, you can not take the land that is located next to the bushes. You need to bring it from somewhere else. In the spring, after rocking out, this land is used to sprinkle the soil around each bush, and this must be done once a year.

In the event that there is no land of the required quality, there is the option of hilling needles with sawdust, sand or peat. But the results from the use of such materials will be worse. If hilling is carried out early, this will not affect the development of plants and their decorative effect. Their normal vegetative growth and flowering continues.

After the steady cold begins, and the earth freezes up to 6 centimeters deep, the roses are completely covered. Before starting it, the tops of all shoots are cut off with a pruner so that the resulting hemp can be completely covered with insulation material. If the bushes are tall, then they are cut at a height of 25 cm from the level of the soil itself, and for undersized bushes - in accordance with the length that their shoots have.

If pruning is carried out in autumn, then the work of sheltering roses becomes much easier, and this is in contrast to the previously used practice, when the shoots were bent to the ground and pinned. Today, the previously existing opinion that cut roses do not winter well has been completely refuted.

Also, pruning in the fall helps to heal plants if they are affected by fungi, since spores of wintering mushrooms are also removed along with the harvested shoots.

Those leaves that remain after pruning on the shoots must be completely removed and taken out of the rose garden, and then destroyed if they are already affected by diseases. If the shoots of plants are healthy, then they are used in order to propagate plants.

It is necessary to carefully sweep away the snow that has already fallen on the frozen ground, and proceed to the actual shelter of the plants. If the shelter takes place using peat or leaves, then it is necessary to first spread the spruce branches around all the bushes so that the needles “look” outward and prevent all kinds of rodents from penetrating the roses. If the plants are insulated with pine needles, such protection with spruce branches is not required, since the sawdust is very prickly, and mice cannot make moves in them.

It is necessary to pour materials for insulation on previously hilled bushes so that there is an elevation in the center, and melt water flows calmly from such a shelter.

The outer border of the shelter should be behind the bushes at a distance of up to 60 centimeters. This is very important when, in a harsh, little snowy winter, it is necessary to protect the roots of roses from freezing.

After the plants are covered, it is necessary to immediately cover the material for insulation with a film. To prevent it from being blown away, be sure to press all the edges with the help of rails and other heavy objects. When laying the film, you must be careful and make sure that not a single stump sticks out above the insulation material. Otherwise, they will pierce the film when it settles under the load of snow that has fallen on it.

If there are such hemp, then they should be cut off or another layer of material for insulation should be placed. The film can be replaced by another material that is moisture resistant - roofing felt, roofing material or otherwise. It is important that the insulation material is completely dry until spring. It is on this that the successful preservation of roses depends.

The thickness of the protection layer depends on how thermally conductive the protection material is, what the weather is like at the beginning of winter, and where the rose garden is located.

If sawdust is used for insulation, then it is necessary to take into account the level of humidity. If sawdust was obtained in the process of sawing wood that was damp, then they contain a lot of water. Their ability to retain heat is half that of those that are completely dry. If a 30-cm layer of sawdust is poured, and it is -30 ° C outside, then a temperature of 1.5 ° C will remain in the upper level of the soil.

If the sawdust is raw, then in order to maintain exactly the same temperature, a layer twice as large is required. If the winter is initially snowy and warm, then in order to protect the roses, you only need to pour 15 centimeters of dry sawdust. If the weather is frosty and there is little snow, then the thickness of the poured layer should be increased to 30 centimeters. If the winter is windy, then exactly the same layer is needed for protection.

If the roses are covered with sawdust and film, then they should overwinter well. Under them, a stable soil temperature is maintained throughout the winter, and in the spring it rises extremely slowly, when the air and the earth are already actively warmed up by the sun. This helps the roses stay dormant until the night frost has passed.

It is advisable to use dry and fibrous peat for shelter. It must be prepared in advance and dried well. All this is done in the summer. In no case should you use raw or, especially, wet peat. It is very important that the shelter is protected from water. The thickness of the layer depends on the weather and where the rose garden is located.

It is very easy and affordable to use leaves to protect roses in winter. If applied correctly, they will protect the bushes very well from possible cooling. Any leaves are used for covering, but oak leaves are best. Harvesting occurs when it is warm and sunny. Before direct use, you need to store them in heaps that are reliably protected from rain.

In no case should you cover with wet leaves. They will settle under their own weight and compress so that they will not let air through. The layer of leaves should be 30 centimeters if the beginning of winter is snowy, and if there is no snow, but very coldy up to 50 centimeters. A layer of such a large thickness is needed due to the strong subsidence of the leaves and the partial loss of their ability to retain heat.

A very responsible job is to remove all shelters from roses in the spring. If roses are hilled, then they winter well, provided that frost holes are formed above the level at which hilling was carried out. But very often in autumn the wind sways the shoots, and holes in the form of funnels appear in the mounds, which are not always visible. In this case, frost holes may well appear below, and the safety of the bushes will be under serious threat.

When warm days come (April, end of March), it is necessary to remove snow from all shelters. Next, you should remove the film, then, when it completely thaws at the edges, it should not be under the sun for a long time. If you remove it in time, it will last a very long time. It is very important that the water vapors that are formed during the heating of the shelter freely go outside.

After the mounds have thawed, you need to immediately unravel the bushes so that if there are frost holes, all the ice can thaw and all damaged tissues dry out. To do this, the bushes are opened so that air can pass freely, and they are closed with insulation material only when there is a possibility that the temperature may drop to -5 ° C.

If there are no freezer shoots from below, then the bushes should be left a little hilled - the earth will not harm the plants.

At the very end of April, it is necessary to unwind all the roses, and remove all materials for insulation from the rose garden, leaving only a small amount of them. This period can be characterized by slight frosts at night. New shoots feel very good negative temperatures. All it takes is a slight frost to kill them. That is why, if there is a possibility of matinees, you need to protect the bushes with materials specially designed for this. Completely the material for insulation is removed only in mid-May.

Peat and sawdust can be used several times. They should be stored in a place that is protected from rain, and specially dried if they become damp during the winter. But, if the roses were affected by the fungus, then the materials cannot be reused.

Winter roses. One of the very important measures for care roses - protection plants from frost. How to prepare and cover roses for the winter.

Preparing roses for shelter

Preparations need to start well in advance. As early as August, cut flowers should be stopped, which will contribute to the ripening of the shoots, and, consequently, a better wintering. Do not remove the formed ovaries. At the same time, it is recommended to limit watering and loosening to a minimum, but weeding is mandatory.

! Hilling the bushes is a must!

Plants that are well developed, properly fed (growing in good humus soil containing potassium and phosphorus), not weakened by diseases and pests, endure winter much easier.

Roses with immature shoots that continue to develop until the very arrival of frost are in particular danger in winter and often freeze out. Therefore, everything that interferes with the maturation of wood and encourages the plant to continue growing should be avoided. late autumn.

This means that you should not fertilize in the shade or directly under the crowns of trees, fertilize at a later date, oversaturate the soil with nitrogen, leave roses without watering (in the event of a dry summer!), Hill them up at the end of summer and autumn and cut them off at this time (in September and October) flowers on long stems.

! Dry and very hot summers are dangerous for roses. Even in dry soil sheltered roses die from frost. Roses especially need shelter for the winter if they were planted in the fall and were not well established in the ground..

The first light frosts do not harm the roses, on the contrary, they contribute to the salting of the shoots. Before the onset of significant frosts, spud the bushes to a height of 10-25 cm with dry earth mixed with sand in a ratio of 1: 1. This protects the base of the bush, where the dormant buds are located, from freezing. The earth for hilling cannot be raked between the bushes, otherwise the roots of the roses will be close to the surface.

! It is impossible to spud with peat and sawdust, as they are highly saturated with moisture and freeze through in winter.

Proper pruning of roses

Roses are pruned in autumn to create better conditions overwintering, just before shelter.

In October, all leaves should be cut, weak, thin or diseased shoots should be cut to the base, and all healthy strong shoots should be cut to a height of 40-60 cm (no more).

It is also necessary to remove the wen. As a rule, they have a reddish tint. Do not be sorry, cut them at the base, as they not only do not overwinter themselves, but can also cause the death of the entire plant. Apical buds sprout on mature shoots of roses until frost and young shoots grow. Therefore, in autumn:

• hybrid tea roses cut in half;
• polyanthus, floribunda, ground cover, miniature, park - by one third;
• Leaves to stipules should also be removed. Cropped bushes are tied with twine.
• At climbing roses cut off only unripened tops and wen. If there are more than 10 stems, then cut out all the weakest and oldest shoots (older three years). Before the onset of persistent frosts, while the shoots remain elastic, the stems of roses are removed from the support, tied with synthetic twine and laid on the soil covered with spruce branches, pressed from above with shields, boards, boxes. Adult plants with powerful thick stems are recommended to be dug up for laying so that when the stems are bent, their bark does not burst. Standard roses are also bent down for shelter, fixing the trunk with stakes, staples or horns.

Shelter of spray roses

After the onset of not great frosts, when the soil begins to freeze, the roses should be covered. It is best when the temperature drops to (-6 ... -8 ° C) and upper layer the soil will freeze a few centimeters. Previously, roses and the ground under them are treated with 3-5% iron sulphate or.

Several ways to shelter roses in winter

Methods are air-dry and insulation using organic "insulation material".

More often, to cover roses, soddy soil, compost, humus are used as a “warming material”, all these substrates can be mixed with sawdust or peat.

The warming material listed above can be safely brought in advance on a trolley to each bush and left in piles until the first days of November.

! Wood sawdust and peat by themselves cannot be used. These materials absorb and retain moisture well, which will lead to freezing in winter, and also reduce air exchange under cover.

It is very difficult to keep insulation materials dry after shelter, because thaws and rains are possible in November. Therefore, it is advisable to cover the “insulation” from above plastic wrap. Under shelter, plants die not only from frost, but also from dampening, soaking and drying. Therefore, one must be very careful and watch the roses during the winter.

! All insulation materials must be dry (especially sawdust and peat). Otherwise, they freeze and form an air-tight coating. As a result, roses can die from lack of oxygen.

The first way to protect roses

On the damp areas condensation accumulates under the air cover, which leads to the decay of roses. In this case, the bushes are covered with spruce branches and poured on top. thick layer"insulating material".

The second way to protect roses

As soon as frosts begin (-3 ... -5 ° С), the “warming material” should be immediately thrown with a shovel to the roses, as if spudding the bush to a height of 35-40 cm and compacted with hands, covered with spruce branches on top, or wrapped in several layers with old covering material.

! The use of spruce branches to cover roses is especially recommended: it has bactericidal properties and repels mice.

The third way to hide roses

Spruce branches are used, which need to cover the bushes to a height of 20-30 cm, and put a film on top and pour a small layer of peat or earth on it.

The fourth way to protect roses

Reliable air-dry way to shelter roses. Along the ridges or ridges, wooden stops or boxes 30-40 cm high are installed, shields (“house”) or boards are placed on top of them closely.

Before heavy autumn snowfalls, the boards are covered with a layer of roofing felt or roofing material so that the soil remains dry. From the ends of the ridge, they are first left open, and with the onset of stable frosts, they are covered with boards or roofing paper.

The fifth way to shelter roses

Other air dry shelter, when wooden or metal frames are installed above the previously hilled bushes, on which the covering material is pulled, and then covered with plastic wrap on top.

Plants are covered in advance, in October, starting to hill up the soil to a height of 10-15 cm. After that, they are additionally hilled already in mid-November to a height of 30-40 cm.

In winter, such shelters are additionally covered with snow. This method gives the best results of wintering roses during a harsh winter. It provides protection not only from low temperatures, but also from high humidity, since the greatest losses of roses occur from soaking and rotting of shoots. It is only necessary to remember that before the onset of stable night temperatures (-7 ... -8 ° С), the ends of the shelter must be open. Otherwise, in the warmth of the roses will rot and mold. With a more significant cooling, the vents are closed, but not tightly.

The sixth way to shelter roses

AT mild winters such shelter is unnecessary. Lighter is enough. simple and reliable way shelters. Without waiting for the onset of a steady cold snap, around the end of October-beginning of November, in clear weather, prepared rose bushes are covered with a double layer of dense covering material (lutrasil) or spruce branches are used, which protects roses from both cold and wind, and from the destructive sun at this time and temperature difference. Weak and young bushes are additionally better to cover with boxes from above.

Shelter of roses in tubs

Recently, many gardeners have been growing roses in tubs, and standard roses are also grown. The big problem is to save these plants in winter.

If it is not possible to keep tub roses during the winter in a cool, bright room, they can be prepared for overwintering in the garden. It is obligatory to bury a tub with a rose, otherwise the soil in it will freeze through and the roses will die. You should dig a hole the size of the tub in which the rose grows; place the tub in a hole flush with the soil surface, carefully cover the shoots of the rose with spruce branches or insulate otherwise, for example, spud, falling asleep on top of the earth.

Shelter of standard roses

Preparing standard roses for winter requires special efforts. Standard roses, formed by a tree whose trunk has already lost its flexibility, cannot be bent to the ground.

The shoots of standard roses after pruning are insulated with covering material, this is very convenient. A tight bag is pulled on top, tied with a rope and the neck of the bag is fixed on the trunk. Then spud earth as high as possible. From above, you can sketch spruce branches and cover everything with leaves

! Particular care should be taken to insulate the vaccination site.

Shelter of climbing roses

Curly climbing roses can be insulated with thick fabric, for example, burlap or covering material, without removing the lashes from the support.

In regions with relatively mild winters, climbing and semi-climbing roses are covered with spruce branches directly on the support, fixing the spruce branches on the stems and support with a cord.

Currently, many varieties of climbing roses are not even insulated for the winter, they are very resistant to frost, but it is necessary to spud the root system up to 20-25 cm.

Spring removal of shelters

In the spring, during the onset of stable warm weather (April 15-25), the roses are freed from the warming layer, cut off, covered with dry leaves, paper or covering material. This prevents the plants from drying out too much and sunburn helps to adapt to new conditions. When sprouts appear, the shelter is removed. It is better to carry out this work in cloudy weather.

Spring removal of shelters is a very crucial moment. Well-covered roses in the fall in the spring may die from improperly removed shelter.

• Already in March, grooves for melt water should be made near the roses.
• When the snow melts, remove the film that served as a shelter and carefully loosen the top layer of the insulation material.
• After a while, the dried part of the insulating material should be removed and loosened again.
• With the establishment of warm days in the 2nd half of April, the shelter should be removed completely. This is best done on a cloudy day or in the evening.
• Then it is necessary to clear the site of debris, and again cover the shoots with roofing paper, film, from wind and sunlight.
• By the end April - early May, you can remove the shading and immediately start pruning. First of all, it is necessary to remove all the frozen, blackened ends of the shoots and cut off the shoots that died from frost or wetting to the base. Then proceed to the formation of the bush.
• With strong pruning, almost the entire shoot must be removed, except for 2-3 lower well-developed buds;
• With an average pruning on the shoot, 4-6 lower buds should be left;
• With a weak one, remove only a small part of the shoot and leave 8-10 or more buds.
• Hybrid tea roses of the floribunda group are distinguished by the precocity of shoots, but their spring pruning must be differentiated: 1-2 shoots should be cut long, i.e. leave up to 8 buds, and 1 cut short, by 2-3 buds. Then the first will give abundant flowering, and from the lower bud of a short shoot a new powerful replacement shoot will develop - the basis of next year's flowering.
• Polyanthus roses should be cut short, i.e. into 2-3 well-developed buds. Then, during the summer, several strong shoots develop from the lower buds, which will bloom from mid-summer to late autumn. The shorter last year's shoots are cut off in spring, the more replacement shoots develop, the more magnificent flowering.

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A good wintering of plants is the key to a beautiful garden in the coming season. Rose needs the most comfortable conditions winter sleep. We tell you how to cover rose bushes correctly.

How to prepare roses for winter

Of course, the best covering material for roses in winter is snow. All additional measures are taken in his absence. If you know from experience that the winter months in your area are frosty, but with little snow, it is imperative to cover roses for the winter

1. Adjust the feeding regimen

How well roses tolerate winter temperatures depends on the maturity of the shoots. Naturally, young branches will die in severe frosts, so it is not worth stimulating their growth at the end of the season.

In August, stop applying nitrogen fertilizers. At the end of the season, roses need potassium-phosphorus top dressing, which will strengthen the root system of the plant.

To understand whether roses are ready for wintering, you can by the color of the branches. The red hue of the shoots indicates active growth. Mature shoots turn green.

2. Adjust watering

In summer, roses need regular abundant watering, but in the fall it must be stopped. Otherwise, the bush will be weakened and overwinter badly.

3. Pinch off the shoots

In late August - early September, pinch the tops of all young shoots to stop their growth. When autumn is in full swing, it may be too late to do this.

4. Stop loosening

Starting in September, stop loosening the soil in the trunk circles. It can wake up dormant buds. As a result, the plant will be highly vulnerable to severe frosts.

5. Trim

In the second half of September, when the morning frosts begin, you can start pruning roses. First of all, it is necessary to remove all remaining buds, cut out weak, unripened shoots growing in the middle of the bush.

Also, in late October - early November, all leaves from the bush are removed and burned. Firstly, it is necessary for the prevention of black spot and other fungal diseases. Secondly, the leaves under cover can rot and infect the entire plant with rot.

Formative pruning is carried out depending on the type of rose. Hybrid tea roses and floribunda roses are pruned to the middle of the bush. Pruning climbing roses depends on which group the plants belong to - climbers or ramblers. All about the differences between them can be found in our article: Everything you need to know about climbing roses.

How to prune roses in the garden?

Revealing secrets correct pruning roses of different types.

6. Treat the bushes

In order not to give a chance to the fungus, it is advisable to treat the bare bushes with iron sulphate or a ready-made fungicide. Fungicides are diluted according to the instructions on the package. Iron vitriol is used in the proportion of 300 g of the product per 10 liters of water (3% solution).

7. Spud the bush

Make sure the rose grafting site is below ground level. If it is bare, spud the bush. It is advisable to use ready-made peat soil for these purposes.

However, if frequent thaws occur in your climate in winter and sleet with rain is not uncommon, the rose may begin to rot and rot. Hilling roses in such conditions is possible only if they are planted on a slope, and the water near the bush does not stagnate for a long time.

8. Bend down the shoots of climbing roses

For the winter, the stems of climbing roses must be transferred to a horizontal position. Even if in last years they hibernated vertically, without shelter, you still risk leaving them on a support.

If the shoots are thick, there is a chance that they will break. Such plants bend down gradually, over several weeks. Every week lower the shoot down, fixing it until it touches the ground.

Even without further shelter, the likelihood of a rose overwintering well under snow is much higher than in open frost and harsh February sun.

Do not lay shoots on bare ground. When the snow melts, the plant can rot. Use as a layer wooden planks or a piece of styrofoam.

9. Don't rush to cover

Without additional insulation, roses can withstand temperatures down to -10ºС. Growers living in warmer regions cover their roses only in December. As a rule, the most optimal time to shelter the bushes - the end of November, when the thermometer is set at around 0ºС. The main thing is to catch the moment before a lot of snow falls.

10. Install the arcs

Covering roses for the winter means creating a layer of air between the plant and environment. The larger the air cushion, the more reliable protection and less risk of rose rotting. Therefore, it is desirable to install the shelter on arcs. Accordingly, it is easier to cover roses growing in group plantings than single plants.

A delicate flower not only protects itself with thorns. For all its external fragility, the plant turns out to be a real fighter, it can survive even the first frosts with dignity. It is precisely because of this stability that gardeners are always advised to what temperature roses can be left uncovered, and how to avoid the most common mistakes. At what temperature to cover roses for the winter, read right now.

When to cover roses for the winter

Under cover, roses can withstand long-term drops in temperature even to -30 without snow, and without it they freeze already at -12, especially hybrid tea. So when is the best time to hide? Even professionals often give the wrong answer to this question for beginners.

It is generally accepted that roses should be covered when the temperature is set at -5 ... -7 o. Many still firmly believe that frosts will not only not damage roses, but rather harden them before wintering. These tips were born when there were no non-woven breathable materials yet and they were covered in the old fashioned way - a spud plus spruce branches. With this method, early packed roses could simply soak at positive temperatures, but now it is no longer necessary to wait for frost. Lutrasil transmits light, air and retains heat, smoothing out the difference between day and night temperatures. The weather in late autumn is unpredictable, you can’t guess what will happen: a slight minus (-5o), at which open roses will not suffer, or suddenly -12o- and they will immediately freeze.

Therefore, it is necessary to cut and cover the bushes from October 15th. By this time, the vegetation of the roses stops, they begin to enter a state of dormancy. But it is quite possible to start this business earlier, for example, from October 1. Practice has shown that early shelter does not harm in any way. On the contrary, roses ripen in greater comfort.

Preparing roses for winter

Experienced gardeners know that leaving roses open for the winter is not worth it. By spring, they may die completely or be injured from frost. Which roses need to be covered for the winter, in what way, each gardener decides individually, based on personal experience. But preparatory work start early when lush bloom roses are pleasing to the eye. It is necessary to carry out planned activities from the middle of summer, so that the bush gain strength and be able to successfully winter:

• Stop making complex and organic fertilizers and switch to potassium and phosphorus;
• The last top dressing is carried out in mid-September, when potassium magnesia is scattered under the bushes to strengthen the roots.

Autumn pruning of roses

Rose pruning is compulsory procedure, which must be carried out with all roses, except climbing ones. There are several types of pruning:

• light shaping pruning. With such pruning, you just need to slightly shorten the shoots, leaving about two-thirds of them. The cut must be made with sharp scissors or secateurs, always at an acute angle about one and a half centimeters above the kidney, which grows outward;
• medium cut. Such pruning can be done with any rose bushes that have been growing with you for more than a year. The rules are the same as for forming pruning - an acute angle, a cut above the kidney, the kidney should grow outward;
• strong rejuvenating pruning. Such pruning should be carried out with plants that are five or more years old. This is an excellent anti-aging agent for rose bushes, it stimulates flowering, shoot growth, helps roses to overwinter easily and promotes good growth. With this method, stumps about 12-15 cm from the ground remain from the bush.

Pruning roses in the fall for beginners can sometimes seem like something difficult. This is not true at all - if you do not know how to prune your roses properly, shorten their shoots by half. With this option, you will form a crown, and rejuvenate your bush, and prepare it for cold winter. Medium pruning for beginners is a win-win.

Autumn processing of roses

Bush processing protective equipment carried out only after all the leaves have been disposed of. If flowers remain on the shoots, only the petals are removed, and the boxes are left. If they are cut off, the plant regards this as a signal for the activity of nearby buds. If the autumn is warm, they have time to germinate and die with the onset of frost. And that means they freeze. That is why those varieties that are not pruned for the winter are freed from leaves, but the fruits are not touched.

Many gardeners try to choose disease-resistant roses, but even they should be protected from possible diseases. Even if your yard is perfectly groomed, danger can come from a neighboring garden or from wild plantings. That is why you should not rely on chance and treat roses from infection. Especially if there are obvious symptoms of the disease. Autumn spraying with fungicides will not allow pathogens to survive until spring. This way you can avoid spreading it.

For this, both long-tested and modern drugs are used.

One of the most famous substances for autumn processing roses are inkstone. For autumn spraying of roses, a solution is prepared from 300 g of the substance and 10 liters of water (3% solution). The treatment is carried out after complete dissolution of the crystals.

Iron vitriol can only be diluted in glass, plastic or enameled containers. In metal containers, chemical reaction with the release of harmful iron oxide. When working with the drug, precautions must be observed for means of the third hazard class.

Articles for flower growers

Hilling roses before shelter for the winter

After pruning the mature shoots of roses, regardless of species, the hilling procedure is carried out. Hilling roses is carried out with the aim of:

• protect plants from cracking at the base of the stem;
• additionally warm the roots of the plant;
• protect the lower buds of plants from frost, which are on next year form new young shoots. Read also the article: → "Do I need to dig up roses for the winter."

Spud roses with loose compost, peat substrate and nutrient garden soil. It is not recommended to spud roses with materials such as shavings, sawdust, hay and straw. These materials often lead to decay of the basal neck of the bush, and are also a favorable environment for the propagation of fungal diseases.

The dependence of the method of insulation on the type of flowers

• Park Rose. It tolerates frost well, and therefore there is no need for shelter. However, seedlings or young bushes are best insulated. ground cover rose. This species does not require special care.
• floribunda. The bushes are cut in half, leaving a maximum height of 40 cm, the leaves are removed. Then spud and cover with improvised materials. miniature rose. Small ones are spudded, covered with dry foliage and insulation, and a frame is installed on top of them. On top of metal arcs or wooden boxes stretch the film, strengthen the ends.

• Climbing rose. The stems are twisted into bundles, thick shoots are carefully pinned with wire so that they do not touch the ground, and laid on dry foliage or needles, sprinkled with the same layer of insulation on top and covered with polyethylene or synthetic fiber. Bush rose. spray rose you need to shorten and sprinkle with prepared earth with a layer of 30 cm. In this case, the entire gap must be filled. The vaccine should be hidden under a seven-centimeter layer. hybrid tea rose. The best method of protection would be an air-dry shelter. standard rose. Apply air-dry shelter.

Rice. one root system four-year hybrid tea rose His Majesty. adventitious roots: a.- formed above the grafting site on the root collar b.- two tiers of shoots are visible - the result of hilling and backfilling.

Rice. 2 root system annual own-rooted polyanthus rose Orange Triumph.

Rice. 3 root system a four-year-old grafted New Down climbing rose; a- adventitious roots b- roots formed above the grafting site

During the summer, roses need the most careful care: loosening, watering, fertilizing, adding soil (or hilling), pruning fading inflorescences, as well as protection from pests and diseases.

In case of soil compaction, after heavy rains or abundant watering and in a dry summer loosening is carried out to a depth of 5-8 cm at a distance of 15-20 cm from the bush, and the base of the bush is sprinkled with humus or well-weathered limed peat to a height of 10-12 cm.

In urban flower beds, you can sometimes find underdeveloped rose bushes with single flowers. This happens because ignorant gardeners in the spring, when plants are released from the ground, greatly expose root collar, and later, when watering from a hose with a beating jet, they wash off part of the soil and expose the base of the bush even more.

Root system dries up, and dormant buds at the base of the shoots do not awaken and do not give new strong flowering shoots. As a result, plants develop poorly and bloom poorly. Particularly affected are own-rooted polyanthus and hybrid-polyanthus roses, in which the entire active mass of roots is located in the upper soil layer at a depth of 15-20 cm.

In urban flower beds, where the layer of bulk soil is small (in best case 30-40 cm), and the construction of deep pits is difficult, grafted roses need to create conditions for the development of roots in the upper soil horizon.

This can be achieved by pouring (or hilling) nutrient soil to the base of the bush at least once or twice during the summer.

Rose observations in natural soils showed that with strong hilling throughout the summer in grafted tea-hybrid, polyanthic. hybrid-polyanthus and climbing roses, adventitious roots are formed on the stem part of the scion.

They have a thick lobe and are located at a depth of 10-20 cm. Hilling from year to year leads to the formation of a longline root system. The plant gradually moves to its own roots, grows well and blooms profusely, intensively using the upper layers of the soil.

At the same time, the roots of the stock still continue to function.

Bedding solves several issues of rose care at once, especially in urban conditions: stimulates the formation of an adnexal root system, protects the root neck from drying out, helps to awaken the lower dormant buds from which flower stalks develop (for remontant and climbing roses, flowering of the next year depends on replacement shoots).

Land for bedding must be taken from the side. It is impossible to replace the seed with hilling, since this reduces the layer of earth between the rows and this leads to the drying up of the root system, moving away from the bush of both the hilled and neighboring plants.

Abundant weekly watering(weekly in hot summer) promotes continuous growth and flowering of roses. It should be watered in the furrows around the bush so that the soil is moistened to a depth of at least 50 cm. After the water has been absorbed, the furrows are leveled and mulched (with humus or peat).

Feeding can be combined with watering organic and mineral fertilizers. It should be noted that during the fermentation of slurry, a lot of growth stimulant auxins that are useful for the plant are lost.

In the first half of summer, during budding, roses are fed with a liquid solution of fresh mullein (1:10), 10-15 g is added to one bucket ammonium nitrate, 25-30 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium salt.

After the first bloom when the buds of the second flowering are laid, you should still feed the roses, increasing the dose of ammonium nitrate to 20-25 g and superphosphate to 50-60 g per 1 bucket of solution.

Third top dressing give no later than the beginning of August, while reducing the dose of ammonium nitrate to 10-15 g and increasing the dose of potassium salt to 20-25 g per bucket of solution.

For the last feeding only superphosphate (50-60 g) and potassium (20-25 g per bucket of clean water) are included, which are necessary at this time in order to promote the ripening of faded shoots and delay the growth of new ones.

Withered flowers must be removed to encourage the development of new buds from the axils of the upper leaves of the flower shoots.

In the second half of August, loosening and watering should be stopped., and leave the set fruits on the plant. It also contributes to the maturation of the wood and better preparation plants for winter.