What care for roses in summer. Winter shelter of roses How to spud roses for the winter except for the earth

Earth as a heater for roses: advantages and disadvantages

When creating protective winter shelters, garden soil is used as mulch, high bushes with it. However, quite strict requirements are imposed on the “winter” mulch:

the material should not be moisture-intensive;
the material should not cake and compact;
the material must maintain high breathability throughout the winter period.

Garden land does not fully meet these requirements. Under its high layer, it is really well preserved root neck rose bushes. More problems arise with hilled shoots and buds on them. Much here depends on the mechanical composition of the soil and wintering conditions. The main disadvantages of the land, in this case, include the following:

tendency to strong absorption of moisture and subsequent freezing;
loss of air permeability and heat-insulating properties during compaction.

When considering whether it is worth spudding roses with earth, it should also be remembered that in winter, plants need to be protected not only from frost, but also from decay, soaking and decay.

Tip #1 Garden soil may contain spores of dangerous microorganisms. Before covering roses with it, it is necessary to treat the soil with fungicides and achieve its microbiological purity.

Hilling roses for the winter with earth: arguments for and against

There are constant discussions about the pre-winter hilling of roses with earth among rose growers with great horticultural experience (See also the article ⇒). Opinions are mixed and can be grouped as follows:

Rose growers also pay attention to the fact that the earth should not be in direct contact with the shoots - this increases the risk of their decay.

Rules for the pre-winter hilling of roses with earth

If it is not possible to cover the roses in some other way, pre-winter hilling land must be performed based on the following rules:

In regions where it rains in winter, covering roses with earth is strongly discouraged. Under damp soil, the shoots are guaranteed to die.

Tip #2 If the winters in the region are too severe and frosty, hilling the earth is not enough. Requires additional building air-dry shelter above the bush.

Topical questions about hilling roses with earth

Question number 1. Do all roses need winter hilling?

Not all. Hilling is required for own-rooted roses - their root system more sensitive to frost than roses grafted onto hardy rootstocks. Hilling is also recommended for shallow planting, when the grafting site is located above the ground surface.

Question number 2. Is it possible to dig up the laid lashes of climbing roses with earth?

You can, but you must follow all the above rules. It is also important to remember that dropping will protect the shoots from frost, but will increase the risk of them withering. Therefore, it is necessary to correctly assess the climatic features of your region and abandon this method if winters are characterized by instability and frequent thaws.

The first thing to do to protect roses is to spud all the bushes until the moment when frosts begin at night and the temperature drops below -3 ° C. If these frosts have already been noted, then hilling roses is prohibited. Otherwise, it will cause the plants to die. In such a situation, it is only allowed to use air-dry shelters to protect spray roses in winter.

Before hilling, it is necessary to remove all leaves from the lower parts of the shoots and spray them with Bordeaux or Burgundy liquid (its 1-2% solution is used).

It is necessary to start hilling in mid-September (in the northwestern part of Russia) with such land in which there are no residues of inorganic origin that have not decomposed. The size of the bushes directly affects the height of earthen mounds. If the roses are undersized, then they are spud up to 10 centimeters in height, if they are tall, then up to 35 centimeters.

In order not to accidentally expose the root system of plants, you can not take the land that is located next to the bushes. You need to bring it from somewhere else. In the spring, after rocking out, this land is used to sprinkle the soil around each bush, and this must be done once a year.

In the event that there is no land of the required quality, there is the option of hilling needles with sawdust, sand or peat. But the results from the use of such materials will be worse. If hilling is carried out early, this will not affect the development of plants and their decorative effect. Their normal vegetative growth and flowering continues.

After the steady cold begins, and the earth freezes up to 6 centimeters deep, the roses are completely covered. Before starting it, the tops of all shoots are cut off with a pruner so that the resulting hemp can be completely covered with insulation material. If the bushes are tall, then they are cut at a height of 25 cm from the level of the soil itself, and for undersized bushes - in accordance with the length that their shoots have.

If pruning is carried out in autumn, then the work of sheltering roses becomes much easier, and this is in contrast to the previously used practice, when the shoots were bent to the ground and pinned. Today, the previously existing opinion that cut roses do not winter well has been completely refuted.

Also, pruning in the fall helps to heal plants if they are affected by fungi, since spores of wintering mushrooms are also removed along with the harvested shoots.

Those leaves that remain after pruning on the shoots must be completely removed and taken out of the rose garden, and then destroyed if they are already affected by diseases. If the shoots of plants are healthy, then they are used in order to propagate plants.

It is necessary to carefully sweep away the snow that has already fallen on the frozen ground, and proceed to the actual shelter of the plants. If the shelter takes place using peat or leaves, then it is necessary to first spread the spruce branches around all the bushes so that the needles “look” outward and prevent all kinds of rodents from penetrating the roses. If plants are insulated with pine needles, such protection with spruce branches is not required, since the sawdust is very prickly, and mice cannot make moves in them.

It is necessary to pour materials for insulation on previously hilled bushes so that there is an elevation in the center, and melt water flows calmly from such a shelter.

The outer border of the shelter should be behind the bushes at a distance of up to 60 centimeters. This is very important when, in a harsh, little snowy winter, it is necessary to protect the roots of roses from freezing.

After the plants are covered, it is necessary to immediately cover the material for insulation with a film. To prevent it from being blown away, be sure to press all the edges with the help of rails and other heavy objects. When laying the film, you must be careful and make sure that not a single stump sticks out above the insulation material. Otherwise, they will pierce the film when it settles under the load of snow that has fallen on it.

If there are such hemp, then they should be cut off or another layer of material for insulation should be placed. The film can be replaced by another material that is moisture resistant - roofing felt, roofing material or otherwise. It is important that the insulation material is completely dry until spring. It is on this that the successful preservation of roses depends.

The thickness of the protection layer depends on how thermally conductive the protection material is, what the weather is like at the beginning of winter, and where the rose garden is located.

If sawdust is used for insulation, then it is necessary to take into account the level of humidity. If sawdust was obtained in the process of sawing wood that was damp, then they contain a lot of water. Their ability to retain heat is half that of those that are completely dry. If a 30-cm layer of sawdust is poured, and it is -30 ° C outside, then a temperature of 1.5 ° C will remain in the upper level of the soil.

If the sawdust is raw, then in order to maintain exactly the same temperature, a layer twice as large is required. If the winter is initially snowy and warm, then in order to protect the roses, you only need to pour 15 centimeters of dry sawdust. If the weather is frosty and there is little snow, then the thickness of the poured layer should be increased to 30 centimeters. If the winter is windy, then exactly the same layer is needed for protection.

If the roses are covered with sawdust and film, then they should overwinter well. Under them, a stable temperature of the soil is maintained throughout the winter, and in the spring it rises extremely slowly, when the air and the earth are already actively warmed up by the sun. This helps the roses stay dormant until the night frost has passed.

It is advisable to use dry and fibrous peat for shelter. It must be prepared in advance and dried well. All this is done in the summer. In no case should you use raw or, especially, wet peat. It is very important that the shelter is protected from water. The thickness of the layer depends on the weather and where the rose garden is located.

It is very easy and affordable to use leaves to protect roses in winter. If applied correctly, they will protect the bushes very well from possible cooling. Any leaves are used for covering, but oak leaves are best. Harvesting occurs when it is warm and sunny. Before direct use, you need to store them in heaps that are reliably protected from rain.

In no case should you cover with wet leaves. They will settle under their own weight and compress so that they will not let air through. The layer of leaves should be 30 centimeters if the beginning of winter is snowy, and if there is no snow, but very coldy up to 50 centimeters. A layer of such a large thickness is needed due to the strong subsidence of the leaves and the partial loss of their ability to retain heat.

A very responsible job is to remove all shelters from roses in the spring. If roses are hilled, then they winter well, provided that frost holes are formed above the level at which hilling was carried out. But very often in autumn the wind sways the shoots, and holes in the form of funnels appear in the mounds, which are not always visible. In this case, frost holes may well appear below, and the safety of the bushes will be under serious threat.

When warm days come (April, end of March), it is necessary to remove snow from all shelters. Next, you should remove the film, then, when it completely thaws at the edges, it should not be under the sun for a long time. If you remove it in time, it will last a very long time. It is very important that the water vapors that are formed during the heating of the shelter freely go outside.

After the mounds have thawed, you need to immediately unpack the bushes so that if there are frost holes, all the ice can thaw and all damaged tissues dry out. To do this, the bushes are opened so that air can pass freely, and they are closed with insulation material only when there is a possibility that the temperature may drop to -5 ° C.

If there are no freezer shoots from below, then the bushes should be left a little hilled - the earth will not harm the plants.

At the very end of April, it is necessary to unwind all the roses, and remove all materials for insulation from the rose garden, leaving only a small amount of them. This period can be characterized by slight frosts at night. New shoots are very sensitive to negative temperatures. All it takes is a slight frost to kill them. That is why, if there is a possibility of matinees, you need to protect the bushes with materials specially designed for this. Completely the material for insulation is removed only in mid-May.

Peat and sawdust can be used several times. They should be stored in a place that is protected from rain, and specially dried if they become damp during the winter. But, if the roses were affected by the fungus, then the materials cannot be reused.

Good repeat and repeat again: we do not have roses that would not need shelter for the winter.

You need to cover absolutely all roses. In this article, we will look at a few important aspects this process:

Do I need to spud the roots of roses.
Is it necessary to tear off the leaves and process the cuts before wintering the roses.
How to scare mice away from roses during the winter.
When to bend the stems.
Good Examples winter shelters.

Roots - spud or not

There have been discussions on this topic on FORUMHOUSE for years.

Chigsa FORUMHOUSE Administrator

This method has both supporters and opponents. Therefore, this event is not mandatory.

Roses spud, making a mound about 30 centimeters high at the base of the bush. For hilling, you can not rake the earth directly from the pink flower bed, so as not to expose the roots of the plant, but bring it from another place. The consolidated opinion of the participants of our portal regarding the composition of the hill: it must be breathable.

Roses are best spudded with a mixture of soil and sand (50/50).

Peat and sawdust get wet and caked, straw - attractive environment for mice.

Actually, hilling is used to preserve during the winter a large number plant buds, because a higher temperature will remain under the hillock than outside, even in a snowless winter. Here are the arguments of supporters and opponents of the hill, we hope they will help you make the right decision:

For hilling	Against hilling
Spudding with earth is the most normal option for preserving roses. Wet hilling is harmful to plants only when heated, in spring, and under a windproof shelter.	If the shoots are under a wet hill in the active sun for more than two weeks, dampening is ensured.
If the composition of the ridge is correct and breathable (if it is not 100% clay, 100% peat, sawdust or sand), the shoots under it always remain.	Hilling with earth leads to frost holes; if the roses are hilled, there are always frost holes after thaws, if they are not hilled, frost holes are microscopic or they are not at all.

Roses are usually spudded in two steps: they are slightly spudded in mid-autumn to protect the bush from autumn frosts, and finally - closer to winter.

Member of our portal with a nickname Nat spuds roses: the site is located in a lowland, and the probability of freezing is quite high. But he spuds the roses along the spruce branches: that is, first he covers the roses with spruce branches, then slightly spuds, then pulls the covering material over the arcs.

Nat

For the first time we tried spruce spruce spruce last year, because. noticed that the roses, in direct contact with the hillock, prey.

It is better not to use the hilling method if you have heavy loamy soils, so as not to increase the likelihood of damping off.

Marina659 FORUMHOUSE member

Don't worry about the bump! In the spring you will rake it as it thaws, and nothing will support it.

Whether to remove leaves, whether to process cuts

If the roses are healthy, then it is not at all necessary to remove the leaves, this will be a procedure from the “give yourself extra work” series; the leaves themselves will wilt and fall beautifully, following the natural cycle. Option: you can cut off only diseased leaves.

If there is some kind of infection on the leaves, then with the smallest frosts it will cease to be viable.

Helga

The whitefly does not bring any harm, and will not survive the winter. Spraying with an insecticide will not bring harm or benefit.

But if you are still worried about this, spray the plants before shelter with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate.

On the issue of processing slices, the rose growing gurus of our portal are categorical.

Helga

Don't give yourself too much work. You never need to process any sections of roses with anything.

When cutting roses for the winter, it is recommended to cut the cut obliquely, then rainwater will not remain on the cut, but immediately roll to the ground, and the cut will dry out quickly. It is better to cut the branch above the bud, which looks outside the bush, then the future process will grow outside the bush.

sw111 FORUMHOUSE member

Then there is no need to process the slices. They dry up and live.

How to do mouse prophylaxis

For some rodent reason, mice adore roses as much as they love apple trees and grapes, and the thorns won't stop them. During the years of mouse pandemics, the rose garden can suffer very seriously.

GALAS

My whips have been nibbled this year.

An excellent means of prevention was given to the participants of our portal by the famous Russian scientist, breeder Ivan Puchkin: this is ordinary birch tar. Ivan Alexandrovich impregnates pieces of old felt boots with tar and places them next to the plants.

Tar to repel mice is also successfully used by the participants of our portal, the experience is always positive.

MiLeDi Member of FORUMHOUSE

Mice don't like it very much! Of course, this is more time-consuming than throwing poison bait. I have been using tar for 5 years, it is not washed off by rain, the smell under the shelter of roses remains until spring. Under bushes-trees less, but mice also do not like it.

Here is another way to use birch tar (the product is sold in a pharmacy).

We hang it on branches, wind it on columns of tape moistened with tar.
We lay out pieces of cotton wool soaked in tar in dangerous places of mouse migrations.

When to bend roses

Despite the fact that roses easily tolerate small frosts, and it is recommended to cover them already with slight frosts, it is better not to put off bending down until this time.

Pucha Member of FORUMHOUSE

At a stable -5, the stems will be brittle and may break when laid.

Climbing and standard roses, as well as floribundas, bend down in the middle of autumn, until the stems have lost their flexibility.

They bend down for a long time and gradually: they tie the plant by a rope, the second end of the rope is tied to a peg stuck in the ground (barbecue skewer). Once a week, the rose is slowly pulled to the ground by the rope until the distance above the ground is 50 cm. From above, the plant is covered with a double layer of the 60th lutrastil.

Examples of successful winter shelters

The shelter that a member of our portal with the nickname made for his roses ghost73:

made frames;
stapled to them three layers of thin spunboard;
on top of 2/3 covered with a layer of craft paper and geotextile;
the resulting hut was tied with burlap.

The ends will be closed with spruce branches, which is always enough in the household of a member of our portal: I regularly trim the Christmas trees that I planted near the bathhouse.

FORUMHOUSE members do not approve of felling spruce branches in the forest to cover roses.

A member of our portal has a successful experience of sheltering roses Andrew 61, roses have been wintering under it for 20 years and do not freeze.

At the first stage, a serious preparation of roses for wintering is done.

Andrey 61 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I do pruning with the removal of leaves.
I put metal arcs from reinforcement F 10.0.
Before covering with material, I remove all debris - leaves from fallen trees, etc., then spray or pour Bordeaux mixture over.

Shelter is made of arcs from several layers:

the first layer of film;
batting;
second layer of film.

The edges of the film are pressed with bars or pipe trimmings.

Andrew 61

They overwinter excellently. They will not be able to suffocate if the film lies on the arcs, the height of the arcs in a radius is approximately 0.8 m. Roses breathe freely.

One of the main rules for successful wintering was formulated by the authoritative FORUMHOUSE rose grower with the nickname stefan.

How big square shelter, the more successful wintering. The larger the buffer, the slower the temperature drops and the slower the rise.

Another member of our portal with a nickname prety covers roses with everything at hand: office plastic trash cans, flowerpots, etc.

prety

Under each rose is a handful of ashes and a pile of dry earth from under petunias.

Most hybrid tea varieties, some floribunda roses and many english roses hibernate without protection if the temperature does not drop below -5°C.

In the middle lane, shelter usually does not serve as a protection against freezing, but rather as a way to maintain the same temperature around the root collar and thus exclude damage from alternating frosts and thaws. In addition, it prevents part of the plant from drying out.

Snow is beautiful insulating material: In areas with stable snow cover, roses require less thorough protection. In northern regions with winter temperatures down to -12 ° C, flower growers use sawdust, compost or garden soil for shelter.

Stages of hilling roses

You need to cover roses after several frosts, but before the ground freezes. In the north, this is usually done in mid-November. As soon as a constant negative air temperature is established, roses will no longer be able to do without shelter.

If the rose has grown too tall, you first need to shorten the stems so that they are not swayed by the wind.
Next, you need to check the location of the vaccination site. If planted correctly, the grafting site is underground. Otherwise, you need to add a layer of earth from 2.5 to 5 cm. Even if you have to raise the flower bed, the grafting site should still remain at the correct level.
The base of the bush and shoots are spudded to a height of about 30 cm using sawdust, compost or earth. The earth should be taken from another part of the garden: you can not dig near the bushes - this will damage the roots.

It is not recommended to unravel roses too early. Haste will negate all the work, as young shoots will die from frost. But it is also impossible to delay such work, because the shoots that have begun to grow under cover will be in danger of damping out.

With any sharp tool, even if you work carefully, it is easy to injure young shoots. It is better to unwind the roses with your hands or gradually blur the protective slide with a jet warm water. Compost or sawdust should be leveled around the bush. Part of the land taken in autumn for hilling roses from another part of the garden will probably need to be returned to its place. Leaves that will not be embedded in the soil are sent to compost.

Late spring frosts a problem for gardeners middle lane. Taking shelter here ahead of schedule is equivalent to its complete absence. The first forsythia flowers will be a reliable signal that it is time to remove the cover from the roses and start pruning.

You should not rush to throw away a bush that does not immediately show signs of life in the spring. Some roses, severely damaged in winter, are able to shoot only a few weeks after pruning. Usually roses are pruned in April, but you should wait until the end of May and only then dig out definitely dead bushes. You can find out about the safety of a bush like this: if you pull on it, but it does not give in, it means that it is alive; if a crack is heard, then, unfortunately, it will be required.

The rules for sheltering roses for the winter are repeated year after year, and yet, gardeners continue to make mistakes. In particular, it is too early to cover roses for the winter. Therefore, we decided to raise this topic again.

TERMS OF ROSE SHELTER

Many wonder why the literature on horticulture does not give at least an approximate date for the shelter of roses. It just doesn't exist! The weather is now so changeable that it is pointless to give even approximate dates.

Behind last years several times the autumn was very protracted: frosts did not come for a long time. In these cases, roses were covered as early as December! Therefore, every year you need to be guided by the weather.

Roses are covered after stable frosts of -5-7C are established. Do not be afraid of the first frosts, they will not damage the roses. Moreover, for small sub-zero temperatures roses are hardening.

Don't think that roses will go to sleep as soon as you cover them. They will also live under cover, but now in darkness. Only with the onset of persistent cold life processes slow down and the roses go to sleep. Instead of getting a good night's sleep, the roses are simply exhausted!

Experienced gardeners cover roses in two stages. At first, light cover (photo 2, 4) and only with the onset negative temperatures finally insulated for the winter (photo 3, 5).

Those who covered the roses in mid-October (and even with foil!), Made a big mistake. Plants are living beings. They need light, just like you and me. Without light, roses weaken, are more easily affected by diseases and, as a result, hibernate worse.

DO YOU HAVE TO PRINT THE ROSES?

Professional rose growers urge that (if possible) do not prune roses in the fall. Open wounds after pruning are the way to go for any fungal infections. If the stems can be bent, it is better to do without pruning.

Some gardeners have adapted to bend even tall rose bushes (up to 1.5 meters). To do this, they dig up the root from the side of the bush where the stems will be inclined. In the spring, fertile soil is poured to the root, and it quickly recovers.

If you do not like this method, and the shoots are too long, then cut them off (to the size of the shelter). Coat all cuts on the stems with garden pitch.

You can also remove red, very young shoots. In winter, they will die anyway, and we don’t need a source of rot under cover. In thick new shoots, you can leave the lower part (2-3 buds). Perhaps they will be saved.

climbing roses do not cut at all or remove only old and diseased shoots. Such stems do not bend well, and in summer they bloom worse. By removing them, we facilitate the task of shelter and give room for the growth of new shoots.

But it is better to cut the leaves. On them dark spots- signs of fungal diseases. The leaves have now fallen off. They need to be collected from under the bush.

Before shelter, treat the bush with a fungicide (HOM preparations, Bordeaux mixture).

HOW TO COVER ROSES?

Many years of practice and communication with gardeners show that The best way shelters are spruce branches and a double layer of spunbond. There was a case when they forgot to cover one rose and remembered about it when it was already snowing. There was no spruce at hand, they covered it only with spunbond. Rosa did great! It was Flammentanz.

Why the pawpaw? It provides an air gap between the shelter and the ground. Under the weight of snow, the spunbond strongly presses down the rose, and less and less air remains there. When there is little air, the plants begin to warm up. In addition, rose stems can break. Lapnik takes on the snow load.

If there is nowhere to take pine branches or you do not want to do this, any branches from pruning shrubs will do. They are stuck around the rose at an angle and make something like a hut. Spunbond is covered from above and pressed with stones.

So cover any roses. But goofy stems are very flexible. When you untie them from the support and try to bend them down, they strive to rise again. At the same time, they pull out the arcs with which they were pressed.

To make it easier for yourself, temporarily press down the stems with boards (photo 2). Then put the arcs, sticking them well into the ground. After that, the boards can be put on top of the arcs, and when the shoots get used, the boards can simply be removed (extra weight is not needed).

Where to get arcs? You can buy special plastic or metal ones that are sold at garden centers. You can cut arcs from willow or hazel branches.

Great option - polypropylene pipes for 3/4" water. They are good because they do not deteriorate from frost, like plastic arcs for a greenhouse. Such pipes can simply be stuck into loose earth. And if the rose is tilted on the lawn, then first you need to stick thin pegs and put arcs from the tube on them.

WHAT SHOULD NOT COVER ROSES?

1. Film. Think 10 times before covering with foil. On warm days in autumn and April, when the snow melts, condensation accumulates under it. Plants support. Excess moisture is the most common cause death of roses.

Some gardeners say they always use film. But this is possible if the owners are often in the garden and have the opportunity to ventilate the shelter on warm days. Before the onset of stable cold weather, an outlet must be left in the shelter. This is easy to do in the fall. But in April, there is a dense and hard crust around the film. It is difficult to open it. Another thing is spunbond: as soon as the snow melts from it, spunbond begins to breathe.

2. Plastic bucket or basin. In fact, this is the same film - plastic does not let air through. The volume of air that is under the bucket or basin will be very saturated with moisture vapor, which will again lead to warming up.

3. Tops of garden flowers. Sometimes roses are covered with stems of marigolds, zinnias, phlox, gelenium and other flowers. You can't do this! The leaves begin to rot and infect the roses.

4. sawdust. According to the experience of past years, sawdust strongly absorbs moisture from the soil. Because of this, they freeze in the winter, and thaw for a long time in the spring. And again the same problem - warming up the root collar.

IS IT NEEDED TO GRIND THE STALMS OF ROSES?

There are two opinions about this approach. Some gardeners do this every year, others believe that hilling can damage. In my practice, there was a case when, in a protracted spring, roses were propped up, which were piled up with earth from below. Bushes without hilling overwintered perfectly. If hilling is used, then do it just before the shelter. Use dry land (store it in a shed). On the medium bush roses need 1-2 buckets of earth (just pour into the center of the bush).

PROTECTION OF ROSES FROM RODENTS

Under the shelter of roses and grapes, mice like to settle. Digging their moves, rodents damage the roots. In the spring, roses have to be cast.

Try to drive the mice away from the shelter. Put inside thorny branches (rose hips, gooseberries, villus), thorny fruits of burdock or thistle.

And, of course, poisoned rodent baits. On sale there are briquettes that are not afraid of precipitation. Grain baits can be poured into plastic bottle cut off on both sides. Such a bottle should be placed inside the shelter, and the mice will enter it, as if into a tunnel.

SUMMING UP

To make sure you find your roses alive in the spring, don't cover them early, don't use foil, spray the bushes for disease.

If you follow these rules, roses will please with their beauty and abundant flowering.

N. Petrenko, Ch. editor