How and from what you can make real asphalt yourself. Do-it-yourself technologies and recipes for making high-quality asphalt

The main terms this material is rubble, ordinary river sand, bituminous resin, as well as polymer materials for laying on the surface. The last component is not always used, as it is expensive, they are mainly used in the construction of motorways and highways. Despite the fact that all the components can be found in the shed, it will be a little difficult to make a paving in the country. You need to seriously prepare for this process.

We need a container for mixing the “ingredients”, a hearth of fire (can be a fire) for 6-8 hours continuously, about 100 liters of water to cool the suspension, as well as one of the pastes so that everything is kept in a pile. Resin or bitumen (preferably) can play its role. Consider step by step instructions for manufacturing.

Step 1 We prepare the container.

The first step is to make a prototype of a concrete mixer, since “killing” is expensive and useful item will be irrational. Suitable for our purposes metal barrel from oil or diesel fuel that sell branded products. If you don’t have one, you can buy it for a penny (or borrow it free of charge) from any farmer or from the company itself, which pours oil into retail containers. They are often thrown into scrap metal as a waste product. Close the lid, drill holes in the center from the bottom. We thread a metal rod (pipe, corner, square, etc.) and scald with inverter welding so that there is no leak anywhere. We weld an L-shaped twig to one of the edges, it turns out a “spit”.

Step 2 We mix the components.

We pour crushed stone into our “concrete mixer”, add a little sand (2: 1) there, mix everything thoroughly. You can’t collect wet building materials - they will immediately stick together, and it will be very difficult to pick them off the metal walls.

Step 3 We heat bitumen and polymer additives.

In a separate container (it is best to take a 15-liter bucket), we need to heat the bitumen to a boil, for better elasticity, you can add shampoo to it. It then burns out, but it will be much more convenient to interfere. We also add polymers and plasticizers there.

Step 4 We mix everything together.

You don’t need a lot of imagination here, just take and add boiling bitumen to a preheated barrel with crushed stone and sand. Important: you can not mix if the barrel and all the components are not warmed up - the bitumen will quickly cool down and it will be unrealistic to stir. For convenience, you can first add 50 liters of water to a barrel and bring to a boil. After that, pour in the bitumen and stir until the water evaporates.

The boiling point of water is 100 degrees, exactly what we need for bitumen to make it fluid and sticky. Remember that you can not overheat this material - it ignites at a temperature of 170 degrees, so watch the water. Just finished - pour it out!

Step 5 We fill in the holes.

The area into which you will pour the asphalt must be thoroughly cleaned, preferably blown out with a compressor. After pouring the hot mixture, you need to take a roller or any other tool (rammer) and compact the material. Be sure to moisten the metal of the tool with water so that it does not stick to the bitumen during tamping.

If you follow the instructions, then making asphalt at home will be safe, fast and even very interesting!

What is cold asphalt and what is its feature

Quite recently, a rather interesting product, polymeric asphalt, came to the territory of Russia. Its peculiarity is that it can be laid absolutely at any temperature. Tests showed excellent viscosity and stickiness even at -20C, which makes it possible to repair roads or make an entrance to the cottage even in winter.

It includes fluid bitumen grade SG or MG 70/130, characterized by increased viscosity. It also contains special plasticizers and modifiers that act similarly to " cold welding". Due to this, it is possible to obtain excellent results even at negative temperatures. The paths will have increased strength and will last much longer than conventional asphalt. The technology has been introduced for more than 5 years in Russia, and now anyone can buy such material.

It makes no sense to look for a method of how to make asphalt with your own hands, since cold technology implies a high-tech manufacturing process under pressure and is not available at home. Its cost is much higher than usual pavement and therefore rarely used in industry. But every summer resident can buy right amount for making paths in the garden or a small entrance for the car. You can buy in a regular store. Installation does not require special knowledge: just pour the mixture into Right place and compact with any convenient way, even car tires.

How to make new asphalt from old pavement

Another very popular method to ennoble a site without much capital investment is to use the old pavement as the main raw material for the manufacture of a new one. To do this, we need about 100 kg of old coating, which is thrown away during the repair of the highway, fresh bitumen, 10 kg of resin for elasticity and a concrete hardener. Consider step by step what needs to be done.

Today we will talk about how to make or make high-quality asphalt yourself at home with your own hands.

We will also consider methods, proportions and technologies. self-manufacturing asphalt from bitumen, sand, crushed stone and old asphalt. Learn how to properly lay homemade asphalt on personal plot

First of all, let's consider what classic industrial asphalt is made of?
Asphalt concrete is produced from crushed stone, sand (for better filling of small holes that crushed stone cannot fill), mineral filler (sandstone, limestone and others are used for better enveloping) and bitumen (a kind of binding material, "glue"). Gravel may also be included in the recipe. Each component in the manufacture of asphalt concrete is necessary for better compaction of the asphalt pavement.

Types of asphalt

Asphalt concrete, depending on its components, can be sandy (sand + bitumen), crushed stone (crushed stone + sand + bitumen + mineral powder) and gravel (gravel + crushed stone + bitumen + mineral powder). Only the right proportion of these components can result in quality asphalt.

Asphalt paving can also be hot and warm. But the difference in degrees is not that big. During hot laying, the temperature of the asphalt mix ranges from 130 to 170°C, while during cold laying, it should not be lower than 80°C. Cold laying of asphalt concrete is used for local (patching) repair

Asphalt production in the factory

The production of asphalt concrete takes place in several stages. First, the quality control of the source material (crushed stone, bitumen and mineral additives) is carried out. After that, the process of processing inert materials begins. As already mentioned, the production of a standard asphalt mixture is made from crushed stone, sand, mineral material and bitumen.

To begin with, the sand is sifted, and the crushed stone is divided into different size fractions (from 5 to 20 mm). Further, in accordance with the recipe, they enter a special drum for drying. A high temperature is maintained inside the drum in order to completely remove water from the mixture during the manufacturing process, as it degrades the strength of the future asphalt concrete. In addition to the fact that sand and gravel (it is possible to add screenings) are dried in the bunker at a temperature of about one hundred and sixty degrees, they are mixed with each other. Simultaneously with the drying of solid materials, the bitumen in the tanks is heated up to the same one hundred and sixty degrees. During the heating process, it is very important to observe desired temperature, the binder must not be too liquid or too hard.

At the next stage of production after heating, all components of asphalt concrete (crushed stone, sand, mineral additives and bitumen) are mixed. The material is mixed with special blades in a separate hopper.

Mixing is necessary for better enveloping, adhesion of bitumen with grains of crushed stone and sand, mineral additives also improve the quality of asphalt concrete (filling unnecessary voids into which water can enter and destroy the road). In some factories asphalt mix during mixing, it is passed through a series of sieves, thus, the asphalt is divided into the required number of portions with a uniform distribution of the asphalt concrete components.

For asphalt, it is very important to keep the proportion during manufacture, since the quality of the future road depends on it. After all, asphalt can melt in summer, and crack in winter precisely because of the wrong selection of components and laying temperature.

After thorough mixing, the hot asphalt goes into a storage bin (which is also kept at a high temperature).

Recipe for making asphalt at home:

Take the old compacted asphalt, crumble it into pieces 5x5x5cm in size. Add bitumen crushed with the same pieces 5x5x5cm. Proportions 3:1.

Put a barrel or a deep trough on a fire, pour bitumen into it first, then asphalt and cook so that there is more fire from the fire, not coal. You can also add used oil there, or old roofing material.

And cook, stir occasionally with a wooden stick until the whole mass becomes liquid. moreover, it is better not to take out the stick, you must constantly keep one end in the barrel. The finished asphalt becomes liquid and is divided into a more liquid fraction, which floats to the top, and all the pebbles sink down.

It is necessary to pour asphalt from a barrel into a bucket as follows: tilt it, the upper edge rests on the substituted bucket, and begin to scoop out the contents, raking heavy fractions from the bottom with a shovel.
To pour asphalt into the next bucket, you must first mix the entire mass in the barrel, otherwise the entire light fraction will pour out first. And it just contains a lot of bitumen, but it has few mineral additives.
Keep this in mind when pouring, otherwise you will not achieve the desired effect.

While you are pouring, keep the barrel of asphalt all the time on the fire, it is better to put it upside down on the coals so that the mass is very hot all the time. As asphalt was poured into a bucket, be sure to count the molten asphalt from the walls of the barrel, then it will not cool down and accumulate on the wall.

Please note that old asphalt will be reduced by more than 2 times. And if you have a standard 200-liter barrel, then you need to fill it halfway, and then it will not be so difficult to mix and tilt it. Even such a barrel will cook for 4-6 hours. It will need 15 buckets: 12 - asphalt, 3 - bitumen.

When you pour asphalt, level it wooden board and immediately throw small gravel on top, before everything has thickened yet. If some asphalt is left in the bucket, it can be next time put on a fire next to the barrel and melt.
And after cooking, be sure to clean the bottom of the barrel from slag, which burns to the walls and to the bottom.

Another way to make asphalt yourself with your own hands:

For 12 buckets of old compacted asphalt, crushed in pieces ranging in size from 5x5x5cm to 10x10x5cm, add 3 buckets of bitumen, crushed in pieces no larger than 5x5x5cm.

First pour bitumen into the barrel, then asphalt. Cook in such a way that there is more flame from the fire, and not coals, you can use waste oil, old roofing material from the roof, especially if rotten wood is used as firewood.
When it becomes more or less liquid, periodically stir with a wooden stick for uniform heating, keep the end of the stick in the barrel where the asphalt is being cooked, without removing it.
It is convenient to cook on a slope, placing bricks under the barrel, one brick from the side of the hill, from the side of the slope - two supports, two bricks on top of each other.
When welded, the molten asphalt becomes liquid, easily mixed with a wooden stick or a shovel, is divided into a more liquid fraction at the top and with pebbles at the bottom.
To pour asphalt into a bucket, a pair of bricks is taken out from the side of the slope and placed in two rows on the sides of the expected slope of the barrel so that the barrel does not roll to the sides.
Then the barrel is tilted and placed along the slope, resting its upper edge on a substituted bucket, and the contents are poured into the bucket, helping with a shovel, scooping up the heavier fractions from the bottom.

Before pouring the asphalt in the barrel is mixed every time. Anyway, the lighter fraction is poured first, containing more bitumen and less mineral additives, which must be taken into account when pouring.
Having filled the bucket, hold it so that it does not tip over the slope, and return the barrel to an upright position so that it lies on the bottom of the coals from the fire and the contents continue to heat up while the pouring process takes place. After returning the barrel
in a vertical position, you need to clean off the molten asphalt from the wall to the bottom with a wooden plank so that it does not cool on the wall.
You can dig a hole for the bucket and fill it with bricks, in this case, at the beginning of pouring, the bucket is placed on the bricks on the same level with the ground, and during subsequent pouring, the bricks are gradually removed from the hole so that the bucket sinks deeper
and the barrel, leaning on the edge of the bucket, each time leaned lower and lower, until the bucket sank to its full height and the barrel fell completely to the ground.
If, from the beginning of cooking, a bucket filled with asphalt and bitumen is placed next to the barrel on the fire, then two more buckets of cast asphalt can be additionally welded while the asphalt is being cooked in the barrel.

Old asphalt is more than doubled. A 200-liter barrel should be filled to no more than half (15 six-liter buckets - 12 asphalt and 3 bitumen), otherwise it is difficult to mix and turn a full barrel. Such a barrel is brewed from 4 to 6 hours.
When pouring, the asphalt is leveled with a wooden stick or board, and fine gravel is immediately thrown onto the flooded area while the asphalt is still liquid. Asphalt, which thickened in the bucket and remained in it, is left for the next cooking to be put in the same bucket next to the barrel on fire and melted.
Molded asphalt melts much more easily than compressed asphalt. The barrel and bucket must be cleaned every time after cooking by beating off the slag sticking to the walls and bottom, otherwise the cooking time next time increases very significantly. Speaking of asphalt, I immediately want to say that this building material has more disadvantages than advantages in relation to summer cottage. Asphalt pavement has only a few main advantages - low cost, high strength, simple technology creation and versatility. Often asphalt is chosen only because it has the lowest price compared to paving materials for garden paths such as paving slabs, paving stones, decking, natural stone etc.

The disadvantages of asphalt are very significant factors that affect not only the landscape design of the garden plot. Among the most significant shortcomings are:

1. In hot weather, asphalt evaporates and exposes the human body to harmful substances. In addition to this, he bad smell will not allow you to have a rich rest in the garden, which is what we need.

2. Asphalt coating practically does not have a decorative ability, therefore, it will not only not be suitable for decorating a site, but, on the contrary, will worsen the situation. Asphalt paths practically do not fit into garden styles, which is also very bad. The only exception is colored asphalt, to which various pigments are added, so that the coating can be not only the usual gray color, but also green, pink, blue, etc.

3. With poor-quality laying, asphalt quickly collapses into winter period: water enters the cracks, freezes, and when it freezes, it destroys the coating.

4. During the heat, the asphalt melts.

As you can see, the disadvantages of asphalt pavement are more significant than the advantages, but despite this, asphalt paths are recommended to be built at the functional nodes of the garden: for example, between the garage and the utility block. It is strictly forbidden to build asphalt paths near recreation areas, because of the harmfulness of asphalt.
How to lay asphalt with your own hands?

In order to put asphalt in the country with your own hands, you need to carefully prepare the area, know the technology of laying asphalt and have at least a home-made manual roller for asphalting.

You should immediately draw your attention to the fact that it is very difficult to make asphalt on your own, because. it is necessary to heat up the bitumen, mix it with crushed stone and additives and know correct proportions. Since asphalt is not expensive, it is best to order a ready mix from a road repair company. In this case, you will not lose a lot of money, for that the asphalt will be brought to you hot, straight to the installation site, all that remains is to quickly level it, tamp and roll it.

Do-it-yourself preparation of the area for asphalting

First of all, we mark the boundaries of the future asphalt track. On the this place it is necessary to remove a layer of soil (at least 30 cm, it all depends on the purpose of the path) and make sure that tree roots do not pass near the future path, otherwise they will soon begin to destroy the asphalt. If there are roots, then we cut them down with an ax. After that, along the entire perimeter of the track, we install borders, which will be the borders.

The role of the curb is not only to prevent the spread of asphalt, but also a decorative function. To install the curbs, we dig a small, even trench and plant them on cement mortar into this trench. To create an even border, we stretch the rope from the beginning to the end of the sides of the track and navigate along this rope. As a border, you can use bricks that are laid not only on the side faces, but also on the side.

Next, we proceed to create a pillow under the asphalt. We carefully tamp the bottom of the trench for the track, fill it with the first layer - crushed stone (10-15 cm thick, large fraction) and again tamp. On this layer we fall asleep another layer of rubble, but only of a finer fraction, the layer thickness is not more than 10 cm. Well, the last layer is sandy, about 5-10 cm. Once the pillow is created, fill it with water and, using the skating rink, carefully roll out.

In order to prevent water from collecting on an asphalt path, make a small drain in advance: build the path at an inclination of 1-2 degrees and circle it with drainage that directs the flow of water into the soil.

Self-laying new asphalt

As we said earlier, it is more expedient to order asphalt at the factory. After the asphalt is delivered to your site, you must immediately proceed to laying it, because the solution quickly hardens.

First of all, we spread the asphalt with a shovel over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe track, making it evenly filled. Further, using a mop-engine, we level the asphalt along the entire path, while throwing asphalt into the pits, and leveling the bumps. It should be noted that the minimum thickness of the asphalt pavement must be at least 5 cm to ensure the strength of the garden path, so this requirement must be observed.

As mentioned earlier, asphalt hardens quickly, so it’s better to invite a few helpers to create a path so that the process goes faster.

As soon as part of the track is planned out, we take a hand roller and begin to roll this segment, while the rest plan the track further.

Mandatory requirement: before rolling the track, lubricate the skating rink with diesel fuel so that the asphalt does not stick to it and the track is perfectly flat. You can also lubricate the shovels with diesel fuel, so that it would be easier to throw asphalt onto the track.

When working with a roller, it is necessary to move slowly at the same time, making only rectilinear movements(reverse is prohibited). During rolling, seams will form at the junctions between the lines, in order to remove them, it is necessary to roll across the seams.

Never leave the roller on the track after work.

For high-quality rolling, the roller should protrude beyond the border of the track by at least 10 cm.

If the weight of the roller is not enough for a good rolling of the track, then you can ask one of the assistants to stand on the frame of the roller, then the weight will increase.

Laying asphalt on the old pavement on the plot

If you decide to lay asphalt not on the soil, but on the old asphalt surface or concrete screeds, then the terrain preparation process will change. Instead of a pillow of crushed stone and sand, you just need to repair the old coating. To do this, you need to rid the surface of dirt and various debris, if there are small cracks, they must be expanded by hand, so that in the future they would be tightly clogged with asphalt.

After that, it is necessary to pour molten bitumen around the entire perimeter of the future garden path and, using a mop-engine, smear the bitumen into strips of 50 cm (not less). Along the entire length of the path, it is necessary to make transverse bituminous strips in increments of half a meter, and then we create an asphalt path with our own hands using the technology indicated above.

How to repair an asphalt path yourself?

Even if you have laid the asphalt with your own hands with high quality, the path will still begin to collapse sooner or later. The most common damaging factors are:

Asphalt began to melt in hot weather

Water got into the cracks in winter and when it thawed, it destroyed the coating

Heavy equipment, for which this track is not designed, drove onto an asphalt path

In order to repair the asphalt pavement with your own hands, it is recommended to use cold asphalt, which can be laid even when low temperatures(minus).

How to cover broken asphalt?

If the paved path has completely collapsed and is not suitable for repair, then this situation must be corrected. There are two ways to fix a broken asphalt path:

1. Remove asphalt and re-pave

2. Lay on top of the asphalt paving slabs or pour concrete screed

As for the first method, everything construction firms road repairers must remove the broken asphalt, re-create a cushion of crushed stone and sand, and roll out a new asphalt surface. For an inconspicuous garden path, this process will be difficult and not economically viable.

It would be more expedient to fill a layer of sand (at least 5 cm) on top of the asphalt, fill it with water and start paving paving slabs.

In order to save money, today they often resort to the restoration of asphalt that has already been in use. Let's take a closer look at how to use old asphalt and what it takes.

The secondary use of asphalt is possible only after regeneration, which is carried out at the plant. But this process is simple and quite allows you to do all the work yourself.

Having carefully tamped the soil in the place of future asphalt laying, we equip a pillow of sand and gravel, water it and re-compact the layer. This completes the preparation of the base - now you need to acquire the source material that remains with you after the dismantling of the old coating, or simply buy old asphalt. You will also need a few kilograms of bitumen and physical strength.

In order to melt the old asphalt, we load it into a metal container along with the purchased bitumen and heat it up. To do this, simply place the container over the fire. We constantly stir the composition until it melts to a homogeneous mass, after which we add a little more crushed stone and sand so that the mixture has a crumbly consistency. The recycled asphalt can then be laid on top of the previously formed base. To avoid sticking of the composition to the surface of the stacker, it is possible to treat the sealing surface of the device with old oil mining.

That, in fact, is all you need to know about how to use old asphalt at home.

Recycling of asphalt at the plant, as mentioned above, is carried out by the regeneration method. In this case, while mixing the molten composition of the old asphalt, new mineral fillers and plasticizers are sometimes added to it, in addition to standard bitumen.

Recycling of asphalt to improve the efficiency of recovery plants, it is better to do it after grinding. Also, this method significantly increases the degree of accuracy of the batch recipe. But, in this case, it is necessary to additionally deal with the sticking of asphalt material on the working elements of crushers.

The solution to this problem was thermal crushing in steam plants. In such aggregates during crushing, the material is heated up to 80°C. But this is abroad, and in domestic production, in order to regenerate old asphalt, in the standard version, conventional installations are used to mix such compositions. Also, additional equipment for the storage, transportation and dosage of asphalt concrete mix is ​​used.

It is a multi-component mixture based on sand, stone and bituminous binder. The “correct” name of the material is asphalt concrete, which does not prevent the use of the term “asphalt” even in specialized publications.

The composition of asphalt includes bitumen, sand, varieties of crushed stone or gravel, as well as mineral additives and fillers. Bitumen remains the only constant component, and the remaining components can be added in various proportions.

Functions of Fine Asphalt Mix Components

Sand, contained in the asphalt, plays the role of a filler and a shallow base, contributes to the distribution of pressure from the road to the ground. Without sand, the bituminous binder would flow out and crushed stone would be squeezed up.

In the case of special asphalts containing cement, sand is involved in the cementation process and gives the pavement additional hardness.

mineral filler- is a rock (sandstone, limestone or chalk) crushed to a dusty state, designed to fill residual voids. Sandstone is the most versatile, as it is inert to almost any chemical attack. Calcium carbonates (limestone and chalk) are commonly used on roads general purpose, while sandstone can be used near chemical plants.

Rubber- added to the asphalt in the form of rubber crumb (1-1.5 mm), gives the coating high water resistance and plasticity. Rubber-treated asphalts are much less likely to crack, which increases the time between repairs. The disadvantage of such roads is the high cost, so their use is limited to laying the most critical sections of highways.

Change in asphalt structure when mineral filler is added

Classification

One of the main parameters is the size of the crushed stone used, dividing asphalts into the following groups:

1. dense- are used for laying the top layer of the coating and contain fine gravel. In the case of a crushed stone fraction of less than 5 mm, such asphalts are used for pavements with low load (sidewalks and pedestrian crossings) and are called fine-grained. Larger fractions of crushed stone (5-15 mm) are suitable for creating the top layer highways;
2. porous– are used in the lower part of the multi-layer pavement and contain less bitumen than dense asphalts;
3. highly porous- optimal as a basis for highly loaded highways. In their production, the largest crushed stone of a fraction of 15-40 mm is used. Such dimensions provide the necessary water permeability, creating drainage in lowlands and swampy areas. Larger size reduces the shift of the road base and indentation into upper layer soil, reducing the risk of washout and subsidence of the coating.

Manufacturing technology

The basis of any asphalt production lies in the preparation of the initial components, mixing at high temperature and storage in special heated bins.

The close location of the plant to the construction site is important, since the material must be transported for laying in a heated state. If the mixture cools, it will be very difficult to compact it, and the resulting coating will not be strong enough. Consider the stages of asphalt production.

Preparation of the components from which asphalt is made

This includes drying and sifting. Sand, crushed stone and rock usually arrive at the plant in a wet or air-dry state. The presence of residual moisture is fraught with a decrease in the strength of the coating and splashing of the hot bituminous mixture when water enters it.

To eliminate possible consequences, the material is dried at a temperature of 150-160 ° C - this temperature allows you to get rid of moisture adsorbed in the pores of the material.

Screening of crushed stone is carried out using a screen. The mineral filler is pre-crushed in a crusher, after which it is also subjected to fractionation. Depending on the production technology, drying can be single or double, repeated after crushing or screening.

Mixing components

Crushed stone and sand are fed to a belt conveyor, transporting them to a common bunker. Mixing with filler and bitumen can occur simultaneously or be carried out after reaching a homogeneous crushed stone-sand mass.

After adding bitumen, the temperature is maintained at the level of 160-170?C. After reaching the required consistency, the mixture (already asphalt) enters the storage bin, where it can remain heated for up to 4 days. During this period, it must be shipped to the consumer in order to avoid loss of strength characteristics.

Modification of asphalt with additives that give useful performance properties is carried out simultaneously with asphalt mixing. When creating a rubber-asphalt mixture, rubber crumb is added to a heated, ready-to-use product.

Delivery

Transportation of asphalt concrete to the construction site is carried out by road. Most often, ordinary dump trucks are used, which have a body that is resistant to hot asphalt. For transportation over long distances, kochers can be used - cars with special heat-saving containers. They are designed to preserve the properties of asphalt concrete for 2 days.

How asphalt is made at the factory and whether it is possible to do it yourself with your own hands will tell the video:

How to check the parameters of the roadway and raw materials for its production

To avoid purchasing low-quality asphalt concrete, you should ask the seller for a product conformity certificate. It is issued only after passing a set of tests corresponding to GOST or SNiP (depending on the scope).

In the market for quality control services, there are a number of regional laboratories that carry out sampling and testing of asphalt pavements. During the study, an average sample is taken from the total mass of the material. The analysis of the roadway is carried out by examining the core, which is an asphalt rod obtained by drilling the road with a special hollow drill.

Cold asphalt do it yourself

Let's make a reservation right away that cold asphalt is only laid on its own, and its production is carried out only at the factory. The technology itself differs from the traditional coating in lower operating temperatures (70-110 °C) and the addition of a complex of protective and polymeric additives to its composition. The latter are necessary to give greater strength and the formation of a protective antioxidant film on the bitumen surface.

Despite the name, cold asphalt still has to be heated in cold weather to convert the bitumen into a plastic state. Together with this burner, you need to heat up the place where the asphalt will be laid. Depending on the manufacturer, it is possible to carry out work with cold mixtures even when negative temperatures(up to -20 ... -10 ° С).

The advantage of cold asphalt is a long shelf life. Unlike classic asphalt concrete, it does not need to be applied immediately after purchase. The disadvantages include lower strength, which is almost 2 times less than that of hot asphalt.

For tamping the coating, a vibrating plate or improvised means is used - a thick wooden beam, car wheel. The final finishing of the surface occurs after repeated passage of cars. It is not recommended to make solid sections of the road from cold asphalt, as they collapse under pressure. vehicle weighing over 3.5 tons.

Modified cold asphalt:

Recycling of old asphalt

The high cost of creating a road makes it necessary to look for ways to save money. One of them is recycling - the processing of waste asphalt, in order to reuse. Processing is carried out in stationary conditions or in mobile recyclers.

The process is carried out in several stages:

• removal of a layer of old asphalt - performed by a remixer that removes the roadway by milling;
• crushing the milled layer to the size of crushed stone. The resulting product is called granulate and can be used for laying roads and preparing crushed stone-sand building mixtures;
• heating in a furnace without direct contact with fire (to avoid ignition);
• adding a fresh portion of bitumen and polymer additives, if necessary.

Recycling technology is of industrial importance and is usually used in the laying of urban and intercity highways. If there is an opportunity to buy recycling asphalt for private purposes, do not hesitate - there is no difference in performance properties, while the price will be significantly lower.

Mobile asphalt recycling plants

Installation #1 Installation #2

Modernization of asphalt concrete pavements

Despite sufficient practicality, roadbeds can be improved. One way is to use special mastics for asphalt. They include bitumen or bitumen emulsions containing rubber polymer additives.

Ordinary bituminous mastics are used in the hot state, and emulsions - in the cold. The principle of operation of mastics is to seal cracks and pores on the surface of the web. This prevents water from entering the road and its destruction - water contributes to cracking of the coating during freezing and water hammer during the passage of vehicles.

Advantages and disadvantages of the material

It is worth noting the following:

1. For light-duty applications, asphalts are not very expensive, unlike the multi-million dollar cost of laying highways;
2. With proper quality, asphalt is indispensable in any weather.
3. Numerous defects are rarely visible from the car window, which are clearly visible to pedestrians;
4. The production of heated and viscous mixtures is not an easy task, despite the automation of the process;
5. The difficulty of using heated mixes is partly offset by the appearance of cold asphalt;
6. Asphalt paths in the garden are not made precisely because of the unpleasant smell of bitumen, although over time the mixture hardens and causes inconvenience only in the hot season.

Existing alternatives to asphalt are currently too expensive and not as practical. Unlike other building materials, asphalt is improved not by developing new materials, but by upgrading old ones.

The widespread introduction of polymer modifiers makes it possible to fundamentally improve the properties of road surfaces and expand the limits of their technological application, which is confirmed by numerous tests of the material.

We will also consider the methods, proportions and technologies for self-production of asphalt from bitumen, sand, crushed stone and old asphalt. How to properly lay homemade asphalt on a personal plot

First of all, let's consider what classic industrial asphalt is made of?
Asphalt concrete is produced from crushed stone, sand (for better filling of small holes that crushed stone cannot fill), mineral filler (sandstone, limestone and others are used for better enveloping) and bitumen (a kind of binding material, "glue"). Gravel may also be included in the recipe. Each component in the manufacture of asphalt concrete is necessary for better compaction of the asphalt pavement.

Types of asphalt

Asphalt concrete, depending on its components, can be sandy (sand + bitumen), crushed stone (crushed stone + sand + bitumen + mineral powder) and gravel (gravel + crushed stone + bitumen + mineral powder). Only the right proportion of these components can result in quality asphalt.

Asphalt paving can also be hot and warm. But the difference in degrees is not that big. During hot laying, the temperature of the asphalt mix ranges from 130 to 170°C, while during cold laying, it should not be lower than 80°C. Cold laying of asphalt concrete is used for local (patching) repair

Asphalt production in the factory

The production of asphalt concrete takes place in several stages. First, the quality control of the source material (crushed stone, bitumen and mineral additives) is carried out. After that, the process of processing inert materials begins. As already mentioned, the production of a standard asphalt mixture is made from crushed stone, sand, mineral material and bitumen.

To begin with, the sand is sifted, and the crushed stone is divided into fractions of various sizes (from 5 to 20 mm) using a screen. Further, in accordance with the recipe, they enter a special drum for drying. A high temperature is maintained inside the drum in order to completely remove water from the mixture during the manufacturing process, as it degrades the strength of the future asphalt concrete.In addition to the fact that sand and gravel (it is possible to add screenings) are dried in the bunker at a temperature of about one hundred and sixty degrees, they are mixed with each other. Simultaneously with the drying of solid materials, the bitumen in the tanks is heated up to the same one hundred and sixty degrees. During the heating process, it is very important to maintain the correct temperature, the binder must not be too liquid or too solid.

At the next stage of production after heating, all components of asphalt concrete (crushed stone, sand, mineral additives and bitumen) are mixed. The material is mixed with special blades in a separate hopper. Mixing is necessary for better enveloping, adhesion of bitumen with grains of crushed stone and sand, mineral additives also improve the quality of asphalt concrete (filling unnecessary voids into which water can enter and destroy the road). In some factories, the asphalt mixture is passed through a series of sieves during mixing, thus, the asphalt is divided into the required number of portions with a uniform distribution of the asphalt concrete components.

For asphalt, it is very important to keep the proportion during manufacture, since the quality of the future road depends on it. After all, asphalt can melt in summer, and crack in winter precisely because of the wrong selection of components and laying temperature.

After thorough mixing, the hot asphalt goes into a storage bin (which is also kept at a high temperature).

Recipe for making asphalt at home:

Take the old compacted asphalt, crumble it into pieces 5x5x5cm in size. Add bitumen crushed with the same pieces 5x5x5cm. Proportions 3:1.
Put a barrel or a deep trough on a fire, pour bitumen into it first, then asphalt and cook so that there is more fire from the fire, not coal. You can also add used oil there, or old roofing material.

And cook, stir occasionally with a wooden stick until the whole mass becomes liquid. moreover, it is better not to take out the stick, you must constantly keep one end in the barrel. The finished asphalt becomes liquid and is divided into a more liquid fraction, which floats to the top, and all the pebbles sink down.

It is necessary to pour asphalt from a barrel into a bucket as follows: tilt it, the upper edge rests on the substituted bucket, and begin to scoop out the contents, raking heavy fractions from the bottom with a shovel.
To pour asphalt into the next bucket, you must first mix the entire mass in the barrel, otherwise the entire light fraction will pour out first. And it just contains a lot of bitumen, but it has few mineral additives.
Keep this in mind when pouring, otherwise you will not achieve the desired effect.

While you are pouring, keep the barrel of asphalt all the time on the fire, it is better to put it upside down on the coals so that the mass is very hot all the time. As asphalt was poured into a bucket, be sure to count the molten asphalt from the walls of the barrel, then it will not cool down and accumulate on the wall.

Please note that old asphalt will be reduced by more than 2 times. And if you have a standard 200-liter barrel, then you need to fill it halfway, and then it will not be so difficult to mix and tilt it. Even such a barrel will cook for 4-6 hours. It will need 15 buckets: 12 - asphalt, 3 - bitumen.

When you wake up pouring asphalt, level it with a wooden board and immediately throw fine gravel on top, before everything has thickened yet. If there is some asphalt left in the bucket, next time you can put it on a fire next to the barrel and melt it.
And after cooking, be sure to clean the bottom of the barrel from slag, which burns to the walls and to the bottom.

First pour bitumen into the barrel, then asphalt. Cook in such a way that there is more flame from the fire, and not coals, you can use waste oil, old roofing material from the roof, especially if rotten wood is used as firewood.
When it becomes more or less liquid, periodically stir with a wooden stick for uniform heating, keep the end of the stick in the barrel where the asphalt is being cooked, without removing it.
It is convenient to cook on a slope, placing bricks under the barrel, one brick from the side of the hill, from the side of the slope - two supports, two bricks on top of each other.
When welded, the molten asphalt becomes liquid, easily mixed with a wooden stick or a shovel, is divided into a more liquid fraction at the top and with pebbles at the bottom.
To pour asphalt into a bucket, a pair of bricks is taken out from the side of the slope and placed in two rows on the sides of the expected slope of the barrel so that the barrel does not roll to the sides.
Then the barrel is tilted and placed along the slope, resting its upper edge on a substituted bucket, and the contents are poured into the bucket, helping with a shovel, scooping up the heavier fractions from the bottom.

Before pouring the asphalt in the barrel is mixed every time. Anyway, the lighter fraction is poured first, containing more bitumen and less mineral additives, which must be taken into account when pouring.
Having filled the bucket, hold it so that it does not tip over the slope, and return the barrel to an upright position so that it lies on the bottom of the coals from the fire and the contents continue to heat up while the pouring process takes place. After returning the barrel
in a vertical position, you need to clean off the molten asphalt from the wall to the bottom with a wooden plank so that it does not cool on the wall.
You can dig a hole for the bucket and fill it with bricks, in this case, at the beginning of pouring, the bucket is placed on the bricks on the same level with the ground, and during subsequent pouring, the bricks are gradually removed from the hole so that the bucket sinks deeper
and the barrel, leaning on the edge of the bucket, each time leaned lower and lower, until the bucket sank to its full height and the barrel fell completely to the ground.
If, from the beginning of cooking, a bucket filled with asphalt and bitumen is placed next to the barrel on the fire, then two more buckets of cast asphalt can be additionally welded while the asphalt is being cooked in the barrel.

Old asphalt is more than doubled. A 200-liter barrel should be filled to no more than half (15 six-liter buckets - 12 asphalt and 3 bitumen), otherwise it is difficult to mix and turn a full barrel. Such a barrel is brewed from 4 to 6 hours.
When pouring, the asphalt is leveled with a wooden stick or board, and fine gravel is immediately thrown onto the flooded area while the asphalt is still liquid. Asphalt, which thickened in the bucket and remained in it, is left for the next cooking to be put in the same bucket next to the barrel on fire and melted.
Molded asphalt melts much more easily than compressed asphalt. The barrel and bucket must be cleaned every time after cooking by beating off the slag sticking to the walls and bottom, otherwise the cooking time next time increases very significantly.Speaking about asphalt, I immediately want to say that this building material has more disadvantages than advantages in relation to a summer cottage. Asphalt pavement has only a few main advantages - low cost, high strength, simple creation technology and versatility. Often asphalt is chosen only because it has the lowest price compared to paving materials for garden paths such as paving slabs, paving stones, decking, natural stone, etc.

The disadvantages of asphalt are very significant factors that affect not only the landscape design of the garden plot. Among the most significant shortcomings are:

1. In hot weather, asphalt evaporates and exposes the human body to the influence of harmful substances. In addition, the unpleasant smell itself will not allow you to have a rich rest in the garden, which is what we need.

2. Asphalt coating practically does not have a decorative ability, therefore, it will not only not be suitable for decorating a site, but, on the contrary, will worsen the situation. Asphalt paths practically do not fit into garden styles, which is also very bad. The only exception is colored asphalt, to which various pigments are added, so that the coating can be not only the usual gray color, but also green, pink, blue, etc.

3. With poor-quality laying, asphalt quickly collapses in winter: water gets into cracks, freezes, and when it freezes, it destroys the coating.

4. During the heat, the asphalt melts.

As you can see, the disadvantages of asphalt pavement are more significant than the advantages, but despite this, asphalt paths are recommended to be built at the functional nodes of the garden: for example, between the garage and the utility block. It is strictly forbidden to build asphalt paths near recreation areas, because of the harmfulness of asphalt.
How to lay asphalt with your own hands?

In order to put asphalt in the country with your own hands, you need to carefully prepare the area, know the technology of laying asphalt and have at least a home-made manual roller for asphalting.

You should immediately draw your attention to the fact that it is very difficult to make asphalt on your own, because. it is necessary to heat the bitumen, mix it with crushed stone and additives and know the correct proportions. Since asphalt is not expensive, it is best to order a ready mix from a road repair company. In this case, you will not lose a lot of money, for that the asphalt will be brought to you hot, straight to the installation site, all that remains is to quickly level it, tamp and roll it.

Do-it-yourself preparation of the area for asphalting

First of all, we mark the boundaries of the future asphalt track. At this place, it is necessary to remove a layer of soil (at least 30 cm, it all depends on the purpose of the path) and make sure that tree roots do not pass near the future path, otherwise they will soon begin to destroy the asphalt. If there are roots, then we cut them down with an ax. After that, along the entire perimeter of the track, we install borders, which will be the borders.

The role of the curb is not only to prevent the spread of asphalt, but also a decorative function. To install the curbs, we dig a small, even trench and plant them on cement mortar in this trench. To create an even border, we stretch the rope from the beginning to the end of the sides of the track and navigate along this rope. As a border, you can use bricks that are laid not only on the side faces, but also on the side.

Next, we proceed to create a pillow under the asphalt. We carefully tamp the bottom of the trench for the track, fill it with the first layer - crushed stone (10-15 cm thick, large fraction) and again tamp. On this layer we fall asleep another layer of rubble, but only of a finer fraction, the layer thickness is not more than 10 cm. Well, the last layer is sandy, about 5-10 cm. Once the pillow is created, fill it with water and, using the skating rink, carefully roll out.

In order to prevent water from collecting on an asphalt path, make a small drain in advance: build the path at an inclination of 1-2 degrees and circle it with drainage that directs the flow of water into the soil.

Self-laying new asphalt

As we said earlier, it is more expedient to order asphalt at the factory. After the asphalt is delivered to your site, you must immediately proceed to laying it, because the solution quickly hardens.

First of all, we spread the asphalt with a shovel over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe track, making it evenly filled. Further, using a mop-engine, we level the asphalt along the entire path, while throwing asphalt into the pits, and leveling the bumps. It should be noted that the minimum thickness of the asphalt pavement must be at least 5 cm to ensure the strength of the garden path, so this requirement must be observed.

As mentioned earlier, asphalt hardens quickly, so it’s better to invite a few helpers to create a path so that the process goes faster.

As soon as part of the track is planned out, we take a hand roller and begin to roll this segment, while the rest plan the track further.

Mandatory requirement: before rolling the track, lubricate the skating rink with diesel fuel so that the asphalt does not stick to it and the track is perfectly flat. You can also lubricate the shovels with diesel fuel, so that it would be easier to throw asphalt onto the track.

When working with the roller, it is necessary to move slowly at the same time, making only rectilinear movements (reverse movements are prohibited). During rolling, seams will form at the junctions between the lines, in order to remove them, it is necessary to roll across the seams.

Never leave the roller on the track after work.

For high-quality rolling, the roller should protrude beyond the border of the track by at least 10 cm.

If the weight of the roller is not enough for a good rolling of the track, then you can ask one of the assistants to stand on the frame of the roller, then the weight will increase.

Laying asphalt on the old pavement on the plot

If you decide to lay asphalt not on the soil, but on the old asphalt pavement or concrete screeds, then the process of preparing the area will change. Instead of a pillow of crushed stone and sand, you just need to repair the old coating. To do this, you need to rid the surface of dirt and various debris, if there are small cracks, they must be expanded by hand, so that in the future they would be tightly clogged with asphalt.

After that, it is necessary to pour molten bitumen around the entire perimeter of the future garden path and, using a mop-engine, smear the bitumen into strips of 50 cm (not less). Along the entire length of the path, it is necessary to make transverse bituminous strips in increments of half a meter, and then we create an asphalt path with our own hands using the technology indicated above.

How to repair an asphalt path yourself?

Even if you have laid the asphalt with your own hands with high quality, the path will still begin to collapse sooner or later. The most common damaging factors are:

Asphalt began to melt in hot weather

Water got into the cracks in winter and when it thawed, it destroyed the coating

Heavy equipment, for which this track is not designed, drove onto an asphalt path

In order to repair the asphalt pavement with your own hands, it is recommended to use cold asphalt, which can be laid even at low temperatures (minus).
How to cover broken asphalt?

If the paved path has completely collapsed and is not suitable for repair, then this situation must be corrected. There are two ways to fix a broken asphalt path:

1. Remove asphalt and re-pave

2. Lay paving slabs on top of the asphalt or pour concrete screed

As for the first method, all construction companies engaged in road repair must remove the broken asphalt, re-create a cushion of crushed stone and sand, and roll out a new asphalt surface. For an inconspicuous garden path, this process will be difficult and not economically viable.

It would be more expedient to fill a layer of sand (at least 5 cm) on top of the asphalt, fill it with water and start paving paving slabs.

In order to save money, today they often resort to the restoration of asphalt that has already been in use. Let's take a closer look at how to use old asphalt and what it takes.

The secondary use of asphalt is possible only after regeneration, which is carried out at the plant. But this process is simple and quite allows you to do all the work yourself.

Having carefully tamped the soil in the place of future asphalt laying, we equip a pillow of sand and gravel, water it and re-compact the layer. This completes the preparation of the base - now you need to acquire the source material that remains with you after the dismantling of the old coating, or simply buy old asphalt. You will also need a few kilograms of bitumen and physical strength.

In order to melt the old asphalt, we load it into a metal container along with the purchased bitumen and heat it up. To do this, simply place the container over the fire. We constantly stir the composition until it melts to a homogeneous mass, after which we add a little more crushed stone and sand so that the mixture has a crumbly consistency. The recycled asphalt can then be laid on top of the previously formed base. To avoid sticking of the composition to the surface of the stacker, it is possible to treat the sealing surface of the device with old oil mining.

That, in fact, is all you need to know about how to use old asphalt at home.

Recycling of asphalt at the plant, as mentioned above, is carried out by the regeneration method. In this case, while mixing the molten composition of the old asphalt, new mineral fillers and plasticizers are sometimes added to it, in addition to standard bitumen.

Recycling of asphalt to improve the efficiency of recovery plants, it is better to do it after grinding. Also, this method significantly increases the degree of accuracy of the batch recipe. But, in this case, it is necessary to additionally deal with the sticking of asphalt material on the working elements of crushers. The solution to this problem was thermal crushing in steam plants. In such aggregates during crushing, the material is heated up to 80°C. But this is abroad, and in domestic production, in order to regenerate old asphalt, in the standard version, conventional installations are used to mix such compositions. Also, additional equipment for the storage, transportation and dosage of asphalt concrete mix is ​​used.

The reliability of the asphalt pavement depends on the use of quality components in the mixture, their uniform mixing, maintaining temperature regime during manufacture and storage. In addition, the planned place for laying the asphalt pavement should be located as close as possible to the place of its production, so that the time for transporting the material is as short as possible.

Advantages and disadvantages of the material

The main advantages of asphalt paving are:

• affordable cost, especially in the case of low-tonnage applications;
• opportunities fast food in the factory;
• durability of the coating, subject to the technology of manufacture and installation;
• the relative ease of laying asphalt in the presence of special equipment.

The disadvantages of asphalt concrete are:

• a sharp decline specifications when heated under the influence of sunlight;
• evaporation of bitumen during heating and the release of harmful fumes;
• the need to maintain the required temperature until the laying of the asphalt pavement.

At the same time, despite the presence of serious shortcomings, a price alternative to asphalt concrete has not yet been found. The path of paving slabs will come out noticeably more expensive.

Work to improve the quality and versatility of the material is being carried out as part of the selection of more effective mixtures. Good performance gives the addition of polymer mixtures and a decrease in the volume fraction of bitumen.

Purpose of constituent components

Asphalt concrete with and without mineral powder.

The first asphalt was made on the basis of natural bitumen. Then they began to use bitumen, obtained as a result of oil distillation, by heating liquid hydrocarbons. Today it is the most common binder for the production of asphalt mixes.

Sand, gravel or crushed stone in asphalt play the role of the main working fillers. Sand is needed to more evenly distribute pressure within the asphalt layer and fill voids between individual stones. Together with bitumen, it binds larger stone fractions, holds them and does not allow them to go up beyond the layer.

Fractions of gravel and crushed stone determine the group of asphalt concrete and its area of ​​application. All asphalt pavements conditionally divided into three groups according to density, depending on the size of the stones used:

1. dense, with a fraction of gravel 5-10 mm, for paving yards, sidewalks, paths and other coatings with a low load;
2. porous, with a stone size of 10-20 mm, for laying the lower layers in multilayer coatings;
3. highly porous, with a crushed stone fraction of 20-40 mm, for use on critical sections of highways.

This porosity distribution determines the ability of asphalt to pass moisture and remove it to the drainage layer for further removal to the ground. Therefore, highly porous material is more difficult to lay, but its service life is much longer.

Finely powdered chalk, limestone or sandstone are added as mineral fillers. They fill the last residual voids and make the paved path more homogeneous. And the best mineral filler made from sandstone, as a chemically neutral substance.

When adding rubber crumb, crushed to a size of 1.0-1.5 mm, plasticity and hydraulic stability increase. Therefore, asphalt with it is often used to cover the roof of workshops. industrial enterprises. Asphalt concrete with rubber crumb is less likely to crack and has springy properties.

Reinforcement with polymer mesh.

Polymer additives in the form of reinforcing plastic fibers significantly increase the strength of the material. This cooking technology is used only for the most critical areas. The strength of an asphalt path can also be increased by adding cement to it, but in this case limestone cannot be used as a fine aggregate.

Do-it-yourself asphalt production

Do-it-yourself asphalt does not allow it to be used for laying roads and city streets. However, such material can be effectively used for arranging garden paths or areas with a low weight load during operation. To make asphalt with your own hands, you will need:

• ordinary, even if not washed sand;
• gravel or crushed stone of fine fraction;
• solid bituminous resin with a melting point of not more than 120°C;
• wide tub or concrete mixer;
• metal barrel and bucket;
• shovel;
• wide sieve or metal grid for sifting sand.

Prepare a dry mix of sand and gravel in a bucket or concrete mixer in a ratio of 1:2 by volume. Set the barrel on a stand and light a fire under it. Pour a bucket of water inside.

At the same time, put a bucket on another fire, filled with a third of water. When the water in the bucket begins to boil, put bitumen in it to heat and melt. Pour the gravel-sand mixture into the barrel. Boiling water in a bucket and in a barrel will maintain a temperature regime of 100 ° C.

Pour the gravel-sand mixture into the barrel and wait until the water boils. Boil the bitumen in water until the bitumen melts and the water gradually boils away. Then pour the molten bitumen into a barrel with gravel-sand mixture and start stirring actively. Mixing is recommended metal pipe or other durable object. At the time of transfusion, there should be boiling water in the barrel; hot bitumen cannot be poured into cold water.

The ratio of the volume of bitumen to the volume of crushed stone-sand mixture is approximately 1:15. More precisely, the density of asphalt can only be determined visually.

In order to improve the plasticity of the asphalt mass, simplify mixing and facilitate subsequent paving, special or liquid detergent. The plasticizer is added in accordance with the instructions, liquid detergent at the rate of 1 cup per 40-50 liters of asphalt.

As soon as the water boils away, the homemade asphalt is ready and can be laid on the track. If at this point you have not finished the preparatory work, then add water to the barrel again. At the same time, keep in mind that you can only add boiling water, cold water, falling on a hot surface, can instantly boil and cause burns.

Asphalt paving

Do-it-yourself laying work begins with the adoption of planning decisions and markings. At this stage of work, it is necessary to clearly define:

• with track location;
• its width and height above ground level;
• with the type of curb and the height of its installation;
• with drainage areas.

When determining the location of the track, it is necessary to take into account the presence of possible underground engineering communications, location garden trees and direction of slopes for rainwater runoff. After making decisions, you need to hammer pegs around the perimeter of the future asphalt pavement, determining its exact contours.

According to the marked contour, it is necessary to dig the so-called “trough” or trench, 15 cm deep. Lay a layer on its bottom, which will prevent the germination of weeds and allow moisture to freely go into the lower soil layer.

Install and fix the curb and fill the “trough” to the top with rubble. The surface must be carefully compacted. The durability of the asphalt pavement depends on the quality of the tamper.

Next, you should buy asphalt or prepare it yourself and lay it on top of the rubble with a layer 4-5 cm thick at a time. Preliminary leveling can be done with an inverted rake or a wooden squeegee.

During the leveling process, it is necessary to check for slopes using building level. Compaction of the asphalt concrete layer on garden path best to do .

It should be noted that the process of laying asphalt with your own hands depends on weather conditions. These works should not be carried out at low temperatures and in damp rainy weather.

Asphalt Recycling Technology

Need for savings Money during the repair and construction of new roads with asphalt pavement led to the development of an efficient recycling system (secondary use of materials). In this case, the processing of asphalt removed from the road surface is carried out, both in stationary factory conditions and in mobile equipment at the place of work.

According to this technology, the asphalt concrete pavement is removed using a special mechanism with a mechanical cutter - a remixer. Further, the removed material is crushed to a fraction of crushed stone and can be used for the preparation of dry mixes for the construction of a road base and backfilling of suburban highways and roads.

Asphalt base.

According to the second technology, the collected and crushed material is placed in a furnace and heated without access to fire up to 170 ° C with the addition of required amount fresh bitumen and additives. This method of processing is widely used in the repair of city streets and yards, since the price, production and laying of asphalt in this case is much lower.

Recycling asphalt at home

The old pavement made of asphalt mix allows home master arrange on the plot comfortable and neat walking paths from asphalt, which may well replace paving slabs. Such do-it-yourself asphalt can also be used, for example, to cover the floor in a garage or in front of it.

It is necessary to remove only the top bituminous layer. The removed material must be broken into pieces as small as possible. The maximum fraction should not exceed 40 mm.

Method for testing the quality of asphalt pavement

Each manufacturer of building materials is obliged to issue a certificate of product quality conformity to the buyer of asphalt state standards. To do this, the plant must have a certified laboratory that can conduct necessary complex tests. In addition, in all major cities there are independent laboratories for checking the quality of construction and the manufacture of materials.

On the construction site verification is carried out by drilling a core of a given diameter from the roadway, followed by restoration of the road surface. Externally, the quality of the imported asphalt can be determined by its temperature and the presence of a black greasy film on the surface.