Arrangement of a storm ditch in the country. Strengthening the ditch: what and how to strengthen

The question is how to strengthen the ditch on suburban area, occurs most often in the presence of factors such as groundwater, heavy rains, heavy snowmelt, which can cause flooding of the house. Most summer residents are faced with this problem. The slopes of the ditches are mobile and can crumble.

The device on the ditch site is necessary so that the site and the house are not flooded with groundwater and heavy rainfall.

Today there are different ways increase strength, which can also be used to strengthen the slopes of a ravine or the shore of a pond. But, before you start strengthening the ditch in the country, you need to carefully read its shape and find the most suitable option increase the strength of the walls.

Main characterizing factors

To create the most efficient drainage system, two independent networks are needed:

  1. Linear. Dries up the area. Most often it is used for constant flooding. From the top point it is necessary to dilute closed ditches with a slope of 5-10 mm per meter. After that, all the water will enter the open system.
  2. Second independent network protects the foundation and basement of the house. The starting point at this stage is the far corner of the house. The trench must be at least 50 cm deep and wide. Gravel or sand is often used to strengthen its bottom. One of the most popular, but not the most reliable ways is to drive stones.

The way to increase the strength of the ditch should be chosen depending on the angle of its slope:

  • most often, slopes with an angle of more than 8% need to be strengthened (for this, it is necessary to plant the slope with plants that have a vertical-horizontal direction of growth);
  • with a slope steepness of 8% to 15%, it is better to use geomats or a geogrid for strengthening;
  • if the steepness is more than 15%, only internal reinforcement (geogrids and gabions) will help to strengthen the soil.

If the ditch has a large angle of inclination, but is not deep, you can drive stones into the slope, thereby strengthening the soil.

Strengthening slopes using geomats

The structure of the geomat is similar to an ordinary washcloth.

Geomats are a polymeric material that has a waterproof structure. It is created by applying polypropylene gratings on top of each other under high temperature. The structure of the product is similar to a washcloth, but this serves to ensure that plants can break through it. After some time, the roots of the plants will intertwine with the gratings and thereby strengthen the slope.

Laying of geomats to strengthen the slopes is carried out as follows:

  1. Before proceeding with the strengthening of the coast, it is necessary to clear the debris and level the surface of the slope.
  2. Fasten the upper edge of the geomat in the upper part of the ditch.
  3. Upon reaching desired length Roll out and cut off.
  4. Straighten the folds of the material and attach the bottom.
  5. Next, lay the next rolls in turn. Moreover, they must be laid with an overlap of about 15 cm.
  6. Cover the finished surface with a layer of soil and plant plants (seeds should be sown on the open surface of geomats at the rate of 40 g per 1 m²).

Benefits of geogrid

The geogrid is made from glass or polyester threads. It is a very durable material with a long service life. Is issued in rolls, has square cells. For laying, you will need a tape measure, a marker, scissors, a hammer, as well as a rake and a hand roller. The geogrid is laid out as follows:

Grass can grow through the geomat.

  1. Level and compact the surface with a hand roller.
  2. Distribute geogrid rolls along the slope at a distance that corresponds to the width of one grid web.
  3. Rolls must be rolled out by hand end-to-end.
  4. The unfolded mesh is fastened with metal anchors every 1-1.5 m. If the territory is exposed to strong winds, the use of U-shaped brackets will be optimal.
  5. Cover the mesh with crushed stone, stones or soil.

Geogrid cells are stretched in length and width. This contributes to its adhesion to the ground. You can start work provided that the ditch is completely dry.

Geogrid use

A geogrid is a grid consisting of high-strength polyethylene cells.

To strengthen the slopes you will need:

  • fine sand;
  • geogrid;
  • fasteners - fittings bent in the form of a one-sided hook, or a special plastic fixture.

The ditch is strengthened as follows:

  1. If the ditch is filled with water, it must be pumped out (using natural drainage, a pump) or simply scooped out.
  2. Clear the banks of the ditch, remove branches, stones.
  3. Spread the grate along the entire length of the slope.
  4. Fasten with fasteners (the service life of the grating depends on the quality of fastening, with correct use it will last 10-20 years).
  5. The cells of the geogrid are filled with reinforcing material (gravel, sand, gravel).
  6. Decoration. It not only performs an aesthetic function, but also helps to strengthen the coast. For decoration, small shrubs are used, which serve as additional protection against corrosion.

What are gabions?

Gabions are made of galvanized wire.

Gabions are made of galvanized wire with PVC coating. This design withstands huge loads, since the mesh has a double torsion. Gabion serves up to 100 years due to its porous structure. It can be done independently.

Manufacturing steps:

  1. Reinforcement bars are welded into rectangles of suitable size.
  2. The size of the cells should be selected according to the diameter of the stones.
  3. Widen the slopes of the ditch with a shovel.
  4. Install the welded structure on the banks of the ditch.
  5. Fill the cells with stones.
  6. From above, cover the gabion with chain-link mesh (preferably galvanized, since it does not rust) to enhance the reliability of the structure.
  7. Strengthen the edges of the mesh with stones.

Strengthening slopes with slate or car tires

The easiest way to place slate sheets along the edges of the ditch is to secure them with metal posts. For work, you will need fittings, a shovel, a crowbar, a grinder and a respirator. Cut the slate into equal pieces with a grinder. Immerse in the ground tightly to each other (about 30 cm deep). Drive the reinforcement from both sides in a checkerboard pattern. Before that, it is desirable to paint it.

Strengthen the slope with car tires can be done in two ways:

  1. Lay the tires in rows, firmly tie them together. Hammer stakes in the middle for strength. Fill all voids (inside and between tires) with sand or soil.
  2. Lay the tires in “steps”, fill the rows with available material.

Before starting work, regardless of the chosen option for strengthening the soil, properly equip the drainage itself.

Work features:

  1. In addition to arranging the necessary slope, make a trench bottom of sand and gravel. Also need a pillow for the pipe.
  2. The use of geotextiles or a volumetric filter (for example, gravel) will exclude the ingress of debris and soil.
  3. For drainage, plastic pipes, ceramic and perforated products are used.

It is worth taking care of the drainage well into which water is drained, since the ditch with constant stagnation will quickly collapse.

A drainage system is necessary for most sites on which houses are built or will only be built. This design is not cheap, so prudent owners most often seek to save money as much as possible without causing damage to the quality of the structure. This can be done by arranging drainage on the site. open type. It is a system of interconnected grooves that effectively drain excess water.

The main thing is to properly strengthen their walls in order to protect them from shedding. You need to know that not all grooves need such an arrangement. If the angle of inclination of the walls is less than 8%, they can not be strengthened. Slopes with a slope of 8 to 15% are best secured with geomats or geogrids. If the slope of the walls is more than 15%, internal reinforcement should be used.

5 most effective methods for strengthening the slopes of drainage trenches

Use of geomats

This coating is made in the form of a kind of interweaving of three layers of three-dimensional polypropylene meshes. Lattices have double orientation and are fixed among themselves by means of polypropylene threads. The result is a material resembling a porous bulk washcloth. It fixes the soil well, but does not pose an obstacle to the development of plants.

The anti-erosion coating is durable and resistant to aggressive environments and microorganisms. It is non-toxic, insensitive to sudden temperature changes and does not burn well. Over time, the structure of geomats is only strengthened due to the fact that the roots of plants braid polypropylene gratings. The coating is very easy to lay, and you can do it if necessary, even in winter.

Before strengthening the walls of the groove, they must be cleaned of debris and leveled. After that, they start rolling out the geomat roll. Its edge is securely fixed on the top of the trench, the material is lowered down, a strip of the desired length is cut off. The next panel of the coating is laid on the first with a slight overlap. The laid geomats are covered with soil with a layer of 4-5 cm. Later, plants are sown in it.

Installation of a volumetric geogrid

The anti-erosion material is made in the form of a three-dimensional structure. It is a polyethylene tape welded together in a checkerboard pattern. The result is a strong synthetic frame, consisting of cells of the same size. Filler is poured into them, which is selected based on the operating conditions of the structure. Crushed stone, sand, pebbles, etc. can be used here.

There are two types of geocells: with perforated and solid walls. The first option has the best drainage characteristics and it is they who are recommended to strengthen the slopes of the grooves. In addition, the geogrid can have different sizes cells and wall height. In any case, the material is highly durable and flexible. It does not rot and is resistant to various aggressive environments.

Installation of the cover is quite simple. The groove walls are leveled and compacted. If necessary, they are covered with geotextile, after which a geogrid is laid from top to bottom. Be sure to fix the top and bottom edge of the cover. Moreover, fasteners are installed from below after the material is stretched and acquires desired shape. Filler is poured into the resulting cells.

Fixing the walls with a three-dimensional geogrid

The material is intended for fixing and reinforcing steep slopes. It is a polymer mesh of an interwoven structure, which is greatly enhanced by monofilament stitching. To give even greater strength, the coating is impregnated special formulations. The structure of the material does not interfere with the growth of plants whose roots strengthen the crumbling slope of the groove.

The geogrid is non-toxic, easily tolerates significant stresses and temperature changes, is insensitive to aggressive environments, durable, and does not rot. Moreover, during operation, the characteristics of the coating remain unchanged. It withstands ground displacement, subsidence and frost heaving. It can be used to strengthen surfaces of any configuration.

Before laying the anti-erosion material, the slope is cleaned, leveled and compacted with a roller. The mesh is rolled out along the wall and every 1.5 m is fixed with L-shaped anchor fasteners or metal brackets. Each next strip of material is laid end-to-end with the previous one. The laid geogrid is covered with a small layer of soil or decorative backfill, on top of which plants are planted.

Installation of gabions

To strengthen the slopes, box gabions are well suited, which are a mesh frame filled with pebbles, crushed stone, stone, etc. The structure of such decorative designs does not interfere with the drainage process. At the same time, they prevent the removal of soil from the walls of the trench, strengthen its slopes and decorate the landscape. Over time, the effectiveness of gabions only increases. The service life of such structures is tens of years.

For installation, you can purchase prefabricated structures or make them yourself, which is not so difficult. Frameworks of future gabions are welded from metal rods, filled with the selected filler and closed with a chain-link mesh. For the manufacture of elements, it is desirable to choose a material with an anti-corrosion coating, otherwise finished the structure will not last long and will have to be repaired. published

P.S. And remember, just by changing your consumption, we are changing the world together! © econet

Enough common problem one of the elements of open drainage becomes shedding or sliding of its walls, as a result of which its functioning is disrupted.

In such cases, the only right decision there will be advance strengthening of the walls to prevent their deformation and destruction.

Slope strengthening method drainage ditch depends on their toughness.

The choice of strengthening method depending on the steepness of the walls

How to strengthen the walls is decided depending on the size of the drainage ditch and the steepness (angle) of the slope. The higher the walls and the greater the angle, the more serious measures and costs may be required to securely fix them.

Walls (slopes of a drainage ditch) with a small slope angle, as a rule, do not need serious strengthening. To achieve the desired effect, sometimes it is enough just to plant them with plants of horizontal and vertical fixation.

Slopes of medium steepness require a more serious approach; for their strengthening, the use of biomats, geomats or geogrids is recommended.

The problem of very steep slopes is solved by more serious methods using internal reinforcement using geogrids and gabions.

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Reinforcement materials

Modern manufacturers offer a wide range various materials for strengthening the walls of drainage ditches, from relatively inexpensive to expensive. In addition, some experts recommend using the so-called budget options for solving the problem. Not everything is bad that is cheap. Industrial materials include geomats, geogrids, geogrids, biomats and gabions.

Geomats are a product of several layers of gratings made of waterproof polymer material, in structure resembling a washcloth. Such a structure holds the soil well, on the one hand, and does not interfere with the growth of plants through the cells, on the other hand. The root system of germinated plants in combination with a polypropylene base securely fixes fairly steep slopes.

Biomats are a variety of geomats, consisting of a multilayer material filled with nutrient soil mixture and seeds of perennial plants (usually lawn grasses).

Geogrids are a mesh product made of fiberglass or polyester threads with square-shaped cells for reinforcing slopes of medium steepness.

The geogrid also has a mesh structure, but is made from high-strength polyethylene or polypropylene. The principle of fixing the slope is based on holding the base with special fasteners, followed by backfilling the mesh cells with crushed stone (less often with soil). The trench in the summer cottage is reinforced by sowing lawn grasses.

Gabions - massive structures large sizes from a galvanized gabion mesh in the shape of a parallelepiped, filled with stone or crushed stone, exceeding the dimensions of its hexagonal cells. The design is resistant to almost any corrosive attack. In addition, it withstands significant loads thanks to the double-twisted wire mesh. A variety of gabions are Reno mattresses - flat designs with low height and large surface area.

Materials for budget options mostly improvised are used: slate, stone, car tires etc.

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Installation of materials for strengthening slopes

The fastening process fits into a certain scheme for almost all types of reinforcing material.

Gabion structures have high strength and reliability.

  1. Clearing, leveling and compacting the slopes of the ditch.
  2. Fastening the upper part of the reinforcing base with special L-shaped anchors or U-shaped brackets (purchased or home-made) at the rate of at least 1 anchor per 1 m.
  3. Laying reinforcing material according to the manufacturer's recommendations (for geomats - from top to bottom with an overlap of the edge of each next roll by at least 15 cm, for geogrids and geogrids - along the trench close to each other)
  4. Anchoring anchor fastenings places of overlaps, joints and the lower edge of the material.
  5. The surface formed by the reinforced structures is filled with soil or crushed stone, followed by backfilling with nutrient soil mixture.
  6. The final stage is the decoration of the fixed walls with the help of small shrubs and ground cover plants with a developed root system. For biomats this stage no longer needed. By the way, with the help of biomats, the problem of soil restoration as a result of its depletion and erosion is also quickly solved.

The process is somewhat different for Reno mattresses. This is a more time-consuming process and it is usually used on difficult slopes with a large area for strengthening.

Slate can serve as improvised material for strengthening the ditch.

  1. Preparation of the site for the installation of gabions or Reno mattresses.
  2. Covering the slope with geotextile and fixing the material with anchors.
  3. Assembly of a gabion or mattress on a prepared site, alignment and fixation of structural elements.
  4. Reliable fixation of the structure on the slope surface using wooden stakes (at least one peg for every 2 meters).
  5. Gradual filling of mounted containers with stone or crushed stone.
  6. Installation and fixation of the structure cover.
  7. The final stage is the same as for the previous materials.

A drainage ditch is one of the most reliable and proven methods of draining the soil. Refers to an open soil drainage system. Excess water is transported to special wells or natural reservoirs.

The drainage ditch is convenient for summer cottages, garden and garden plots of individual farms, when the owners do not see the need to lay closed pipe sewers and drains. Effectively reduces the level ground water in clayey and boggy soils. It is used in low-lying and flat areas, as well as on gentle slopes with an inclination angle of not more than 7%.

When deciding how to make a drainage ditch, it should be taken into account that this is the easiest affordable option water control structure. It is easily equipped with your own hands, does not require high qualifications, expensive materials, or the involvement of special machinery and equipment.

Drainage ditches have disadvantages. These include: a short service life, the need regular repairs due to erosion of the side slopes and clogging of the trench. There are difficulties with architectural and decorative design and the creation of an artistic landscape. In addition, an open water conduit has a lower efficiency compared to other drains.

The width and depth of drainage ditches are not regulated by building codes and regulations. When arranging a drainage structure with your own hands, its dimensions are determined empirically, based on the conditions of the watering of the site. Regular variant- depth is from 60 to 80 cm, width is about 50 - 70 cm. To minimize shedding of the walls of the trench, they are beveled at an angle of 25 - 30 0 C. The soil in the ditch is rammed, the bottom is covered with a 30 mm layer of sand, fine gravel or sawdust.

The number of drains at the facility depends on the degree of its flooding in rainy weather, when snow melts, and the depth of soil water. If the soils are loamy, drainage trenches are laid throughout the site. In sloping terrain, they dig across the slope. Water flows through them to the side drains and from there to the water collector. For swampy areas, the greatest drainage effect is achieved if drainage ditches are made on both sides or around the entire perimeter of the site.

With an average level of water manifestation, ditches can be equipped on one side of the garden or vegetable garden.

Drainage ditch in flat areas should be built with a slope of 5%. Maximum dimensions the slope of drainage systems is not regulated by building codes. However, the Code of Practice (2012) for open ditches equipped with polymer trays allows a slope angle of up to 7 ppm. This rule is also applicable to drainage drains, equipped on roadside sites. Areas with a slope close to critical indicators may be provided if they are associated with the features of the terrain. Minimum dimensions stingrays are 2% for clay and 3% for sandy soil. However, they quickly become clogged, congestion is formed. The speed of the water flow is reduced to critical levels. Drainage efficiency becomes minimal.

Strengthening gutters


The choice of methods for strengthening the side walls and the bottom of the drainage ditches is made taking into account the results of engineering geology and soil studies.

The most common:


When strengthening the walls of the trench with your own hands, it is necessary to observe the condition of mandatory contact of water with the soil. It is partially absorbed into it. For this reason, it is not recommended to equip the bottom and walls with solid concrete products. Otherwise, the drain will quickly silt up. Cleaning is a laborious process, since the length of the trenches is large.

Construction of drainage systems along roads and fences

Drainage of plots along the roads (ditch) - required element coating protection. The roadbed is not waterproof. The liquid gradually breaks down pavement. At sub-zero temperature ice in the pores breaks the asphalt.

Road drainage should be constructed with a slope of more than 0.02 (2 cm per 1 meter of length). In unforeseen cases and only in certain areas, a slope of 3% is allowed. If the construction of a drainage structure with the required indicators for objective reasons If it is impossible, then conjugated hydraulic structures are provided: water-cutting wells (ledges), channels with a slope above the critical one (fast currents), drops (steps before falling water). A slope above 7 ppm applies here. The minimum flow rate must not be less than 0.25 meters per second. In swampy and clayey areas, ditches are equipped on both sides of the road.

It should be remembered that for roads along an embankment without fences, the drainage runoff should not have a rectangular shape and a depth of more than 12 cm. highways". In case of an emergency exit from the road, the risk of the vehicle tipping over will increase.

The drainage ditch along the fence has its own characteristics. When arranging it with your own hands, protection of the support of the fence from washing away is provided.

A drainage ditch along the fence is constructed with a depth of 20-30 cm. For bulk soil, this figure exceeds 50 cm. Some difficulties arise when the trench is turned at a right angle. In this case, one of them should extend a few centimeters beyond the junction.

The distance from the base of the fence to the upper edge of the drain should be from 50 - 60 cm. Ditches are often equipped with drainage pipes or trays. Are used reinforced concrete products with large holes. Continuous concreting is used only in short sections. Usually this is the passage under the drainage of communications, underground structures. Otherwise, the arrangement of ditches does not differ from similar systems in gardens and orchards. The walls are reinforced with nets and wild plants. The bottom part is covered with pebbles, sawdust, sand screenings. The slope of the drainage systems at the fences is 5%. It is allowed to build drops and fast currents with an inclination angle of 7% or more.

Decoration of drainage systems

open drainage structures unattractive in terms of design. They do not fit well into the surrounding landscape. It is difficult to do without artificial decoration. The easiest way is to beautifully cover the bottom of the ditch with stones. They can be given different color scheme. Looks impressive marble chips or special decorative gravel.

It is possible to improve the trench perennials, including flowers. Often, drains around the perimeter are equipped decorative grilles with climbing herbs. They will not only cover the ditch, but also strengthen its side walls. Insofar as drainage system designed to drain "clean" rather than wastewater, it is sometimes equipped in the form artificial river(ditch system). Drops, small dams with mini waterfalls or pools are applicable here. They can become important elements decorative design landscape. Near them, small architecture looks elegant, especially sculptural figures of people and animals.

Few people will undertake to refute the assertion that today storm sewers and its variety - a drainage (aka drainage) ditch - is an integral part of the entire improvement of the site, which is most prone to flooding during rains or meltwater. At the same time, it also happens that few people have an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhat a drainage ditch is and how to equip it.

What is a drainage ditch

As a matter of fact, any is a special recess in the ground, equipped along the road or along the perimeter of the object, site.

Drainage ditch - a structure in the ground, designed to protect the soil from erosion or waterlogging, collecting surface water and divert them to the nearest watercourse.

The principle of its operation is extremely simple: the water accumulated after intense downpours does not stagnate on the ground, but flows down the bottom of the ditch into a specially equipped drain or into a natural reservoir. If water is diverted from the overlying territory, then such a drainage ditch is called upland. And if the withdrawal is carried out along the perimeter of the site or along the road, then this is a ditch.

What are the advantages of a drainage ditch

First of all, such a ditch is designed to effectively divert water from the site. Thus, it will be possible to prevent such unpleasant phenomena as:

  • flooding of the site and its swamping, the formation of puddles on the ground;
  • decay wooden structures and plant roots
  • inhibition of the growth of plantings on the territory;
  • the appearance of fungi and mold on the walls of structures;
  • deterioration of health due to exposure to high humidity;
  • accumulation of dirt in the area.

Precipitation and melted snow cause considerable damage economic activity, increase excess moisture in the soil, which can spoil landscape design, lead to death garden plants and destroy the foundation of the building.

In addition, digging a ditch, as a rule, does not involve the involvement of a specialized heavy construction equipment. Literally every owner is able to take the most common bayonet shovel and dig a ditch on their own. A drainage ditch is also the cheapest and effective method drainage. It will require almost no cash outlay.

Disadvantages of a drainage ditch

However, this organization method also has its disadvantages. For example, a ditch is less efficient than a linear storm sewer and even with surface linear drainage.

The ditch does not have a long service life. However, if you approach its arrangement wisely and how to strengthen it, these terms will be extended to a significant extent. But even so, the ditch needs regular maintenance - the restoration of the embankment, cleaning and other repair work.

In addition, a drainage ditch can spoil the appearance of the site. But even here everything largely depends on the imagination of the owner himself. There are examples of well-decorated drainage ditches that are successfully integrated into the landscape design.

A ditch is a long open drainage system of the simplest type, dug in the ground to collect and drain water that accumulates as a result of precipitation. a large number precipitation.

Where are drainage ditches predominantly used?

The drainage ditch, as a rule, finds its application in not too large private areas. This is due to the low degree of automation of work on its arrangement. Therefore, on an industrial scale, drainage ditches are little used. This also happens for the reasons of the above disadvantages - the need for frequent repairs, a short service life, etc. It must also be borne in mind that, according to current regulations, it is impossible to equip drainage ditches and lead them to:

  • water bodies where fish and other living organisms live;
  • unfortified or eroded ravines and pits;
  • rivers with flowing water;
  • reservoirs that have beaches for recreation;
  • as well as to natural lowlands where the area is prone to waterlogging.

Important! The arrangement of drainage ditches is prohibited in those places where the level of groundwater flow is at a depth of less than two meters. This is due to the fact that otherwise dirty waste water can penetrate into the aquifer. If groundwater is expected to occur on the site, then the drainage channels are equipped with closed trays.

The lack of drainage systems is erosion and collapse of the walls. Paving a ditch with natural stone is a way to strengthen the slopes of a drainage ditch, as well as to give it an aesthetic appearance.

What are the technical requirements for drainage ditches

In order to ensure the greatest efficiency of work, certain standards must be observed. First of all, you need to take care of ensuring the desired degree of slope of the ditch. If she breaks out on a small private territory, then we can proceed from the principle: 2 cm change in height for each meter of the length of the ditch. In the case of arranging drainage along roads and industrial facilities, the optimal angle of inclination is 3-5 degrees.

The greatest efficiency of the drainage ditch is provided by the organization of the necessary degree of its slope.

If, for some reason, it is impossible to provide the desired degree of slope, then it is necessary to organize special fast currents and so-called water wells along the water path. The minimum flow rate should be 0.3 meters per second. In this case, the ditch can effectively cope in most cases even with relatively intense water flows. As for the dimensions of the ditch itself, they are as follows:

  • width - about 50 cm;
  • depth - not less than 70 cm;
  • slopes on the sides should be at an angle of 30 degrees.

What are the ways to strengthen the drainage ditch

As already mentioned, one of the significant drawbacks that a drainage ditch has is that its walls and embankment are subject to natural destruction - shedding and erosion. However, everyone is able to reduce the effect of this negative factor. And for this it is necessary to take measures to strengthen both the ditch itself and its slopes.

Firstly, even at the construction stage, it is necessary to ensure the presence of a special drainage sand and gravel layer along the edges of the ditch. A pillow 8 to 10 centimeters thick will suffice. After completion of the work, it is possible to plant the edges of the ditch with decorative or wild-growing shrubs and trees. One side, root system they will strengthen the walls of the ditch, and on the other hand, it will give it a more aesthetically attractive appearance.

Often to strengthen the ditch and also to improve it appearance applied natural stone. With a skillful layout, he can transform beyond recognition such a seemingly unsightly structure as a drainage ditch.

A geogrid is a honeycomb structure made of polyethylene tapes, it is used to reinforce loose and inhomogeneous soils, strengthen slopes and slopes.

It is also recommended to use a geogrid. With the help of special crutches, it is attached to the bottom and to the walls of the ditch. The same material as geotextiles is recommended to be laid on the silty soil of the main platform of the canvas. The minimum thickness of the embankment on geotextiles should be at least 30 centimeters. Geotextiles can also be used to strengthen both the walls of the ditch and its bottom. For this, the so-called edging is also used. The turf is cut with a thickness of 6 to 10 cm and laid out along the embankment. Its fastening can be carried out with wooden knitting needles. Finally, you can simply show a certain imagination and use all kinds of improvised means to strengthen the ditch.

How to equip a drainage ditch on your own

Usually the owners small plots prefer to manage with the arrangement of drainage ditches on their own. And in order for the ditch to operate with maximum efficiency, first you need to mark the site, taking into account the natural slope of the terrain. You can even pre-plan on paper. In order to understand from which particular places you need to divert water in the first place, you can simply wait for the first downpour and see where exactly the water has accumulated the most.

Most good option- if the site itself is a sloping terrain. In this case, it will be enough to simply dig a U-shaped or L-shaped ditch. It also finds distribution and the location of the ditch "herringbone", all the "branches" of which enter the sections of the territory and then merge together - into the "trunk". Taking into account the above parameters of the slope and the dimensions of the channel, a trench is dug, then the ditch is strengthened by one of the above methods.

With the help of drainage ditches, damp areas are drained to prepare sites intended for the construction of buildings and structures.

What the experts say

The construction of drainage ditches on the site is a necessity. If the owner took care of their arrangement in time, he can protect himself from many problems at once. And the drainage ditch is exactly what the work on the improvement of any territory should be carried out from.

When drawing up the scheme, it is necessary to take into account the presence of obstacles and obstacles on the way. If shrubs are found, they must be torn down and replanted to avoid flooding the root system. However, it is best, of course, to build a plan in such a way as to avoid any obstacles whatsoever.

Alexander.

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