How to strengthen the slopes of the ditch. Drainage ditch device

To ensure proper drainage of the site, it is necessary to use drainage system. For her proper organization You need to know what a drainage ditch device looks like, as well as how to make it yourself.

Design features

Drainage ditch or drain is part of the drainage system, which is responsible for the direction of melt, groundwater and sedimentary water. There are several types of drainage trenches:

Perimeter;
Basic;
Additional.

Perimeter trenches are used to organize the drainage system around the building. They are dug around the entire perimeter of the house, due to which the liquid is removed from the foundation. This system is more convenient in design than the creation of main and additional ditches, but is only suitable for small swampy areas. Sometimes they are arranged along the road if your site is located on a hill or in order to organize economical watering.

The main ditches play the role of a drainage system in a large drainage system, their device is quite complex. The traditional drainage system looks like a real river bed. Additional trenches have been dug to the main central trench, which help to ensure the drainage of water from a large area. In addition, in this design, the drainage system is more efficient.

Ditches are also divided according to the type of construction. Depending on their type, they are closed and open.

Related video:

When to use a drainage ditch:

If there is no slope on the site or it is very small, it is not enough for a normal outflow of water;
For interception of sewage near the foundation of a house, garden or vegetable garden;
For efficient drainage of private land shares on peat soil.

How to make a trench

Before you make a drainage ditch in the country or in the courtyard of a private house, you need to transfer its device to paper. The drawing will help calculate the required slope, pipe size, determine the type of ditch and its parameters. We recommend with finished project contact the geological organization of your locality. In addition to the basic parameters of trenches, you need to calculate the depth of soil freezing and the rate of average annual precipitation.

How to make a drainage ditch suburban area do it yourself: instructions:

Such a drainage ditch device is universal, the technology can be used both in the country house and in a private house or cottage.

Almost every personal or suburban area with high level ground water equipped with a drainage system. Such additional communications are necessary to remove excess water from the territory. Thus, they protect the site from flooding, and the buildings on it from destruction. Many drainage systems are made open way. A network of trenches is laid throughout the site, with the help of which water is drained. But in this case, a difficulty arises, because you need to know how to strengthen the drainage ditch. What methods exist? This is exactly what will be discussed in the article.

Strengthening the walls of drainage ditches can be done using various special products produced by manufacturers. For these works, the following devices are used:

biomats or geomats;
geogrids;
geogrids;
gabions.

The first three options are used with a slope of 8 to 15 °. If the walls of the ditch are steeper, then geogrids or gabions are used.

Geomats or biomats are a kind of sponge made of several layers of polymer lattices. Vegetation freely grows through this rolled material, thereby strengthening the walls of the drainage ditch even more reliably.

Installation of geomats is quite simple. First, the slope is cleared of debris and big plants(shrubs and tall grass). Then the surface must be leveled with a rake. After that, the edge of the geomat is fixed in the upper part of the slope with the help of anchors. Then the roll is rolled to the base of the slope and an extra piece is cut off. The lower edge of the geomat is also fastened with anchors. After that, by analogy, the next strip of material is laid. In this case, you need to make an overlap of 15 cm.

After the entire slope is covered with a geomat, it is covered with soil (3-4 cm is enough). Then it is desirable to sow the surface with seeds of herbal plants. Yes, you improve appearance and secure the material more securely.

The geogrid is made in the form of a polymer grid with square cells. This material, like the previous one, is produced in rolls. Its laying is similar to strengthening the walls of ditches with a geomat. First, the slope is cleared and leveled. After that, the surface must be compacted with a hand roller. Then the mesh is unfolded and fastened, using anchor rods or metal staples (at least 15–20 cm long).

The geogrid can be covered with soil (in this case, it is sown with seeds of herbal plants) or covered with small stones or gravel.

A more durable and reliable material for strengthening the walls of a drainage ditch is a geogrid. Such products are made of durable polyethylene or polypropylene. The geogrid is attached to the slopes using anchor fasteners (an L-shaped product, 50–80 cm long).

Before starting work, it is necessary to drain the ditch. Then the slopes and the bottom are cleared of debris and leveled. After that, the geogrid is laid out. Fastening is done in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other. After that, all cells are covered with sand or gravel.

The gabion is considered the most expensive, but also the most reliable strengthening of the slopes of drainage ditches. Such products are made in the form of a parallelepiped from a grid. It uses metal wire double weave.

To protect against corrosion, the grid is covered with a layer of plastic. Large stones or crushed stone are placed inside the gabion. Such protection can last more than 50 years. At the same time, the appearance of the gabion is very attractive.

We use improvised materials

All of the above methods require quite decent financial investments from the owner of the site. But it is possible to strengthen the walls of the drainage ditch in a cheaper way. The most common option is to use slate.

To work, you need to prepare some tools and materials. You will need:

Slate (you can use any, even used ones, the main thing is that there are no large holes in it).
Metal pins or pipes 1 m long.
Bulgarian.
Shovel.

First of all, sheets of slate are cut into identical pieces of the desired size. Then, using a shovel, we install them into the ground along the cleavage of the ditch, to a depth of 20–30 cm. Next, we drive in rods or pipes on both sides of the slate. Such strengthening of the slope does not look very attractive, and its service life is not long. But it might work as a temporary solution.

In addition to slate, you can use old car tires. But this option is acceptable if there is enough space on the site. In this case, the tires are stacked on top of each other along the walls of the ditch. You can put each circle with an offset, in this case the slope will turn out to be more gentle. Then soil is poured inside the tires, and grass is sown on top or small shrubs are planted.

After the germination of vegetation, the appearance of the slope will be close to the natural landscape. Car tires do not decompose, which means that such slope strengthening will last a very long time.

Whichever option you choose to strengthen the drainage system, it is important to do all the work efficiently. In this case, the arrangement of the ditch will not have to be dealt with again. If you have any questions about this topic, then write them in the comments to the article. Maybe you have alternative ideas for strengthening the drainage of the ditch? Then share them with us by writing your opinion. Your experience will be very helpful!

Video

If you do not have enough funds for the arrangement of the drainage system, then do not despair! The video material suggests a method for laying drainage from old tires, which you can repeat with your own hands without involving a specialist:

Constant flooding of the site due to the high level of groundwater is a fairly common problem that can be solved with the help of properly arranged drainage.

Drainage using special ditches is the easiest and cheapest way to perform drainage. To equip the drainage system, landscape features are used - ditches are dug along natural slopes and drain moisture to a nearby reservoir or a separately built well to collect drainage water.

Device and purpose

The device of a closed drainage system on the site begins with the digging of trenches. The depth of each trench corresponds to the occurrence of groundwater - usually this value is from 90 to 180 centimeters. The bottom of the drainage system is covered with sand, on which plastic or asbestos-cement pipes are mounted. Crushed stone is placed on top of the pipes - this filter does not prevent the free penetration of water into the drainage system. Crushed stone is covered with geofabric, and another layer of sand is placed on top. The final stage of construction is the backfilling of the upper sandy layer of the trench with soil.

Regular cleaning of the soil from weeds that impede the flow of water is recommended!

The shape of the trench (ditch) depends on the type of soil. Clay, as a stable ground, allows you to build sheer walls. On sandstones, the walls are only made flat, otherwise the trench will begin to crumble during laying.

In addition, there are drainage systems open type made in the form of open ditches. They are divided into three types:

Furrows located in any part of the garden. This is the simplest and most effective engineering solution for diverting surface water.
Single ditches arranged along a natural slope. Usually placed along roads or borders.
Channels located around the perimeter of the site.

Open drainage systems do not have strictly regulated sizes. The depth and width of the ditches is selected based on the characteristics of the site.

Ideally, this is a system consisting of several channels interconnected by side outlets (performed across the channels). To protect the fence, the depth of the ditch should be from 30 to 50 centimeters (in areas with an embankment). Bypass channels arranged along the perimeter of the site do not have side outlets. The flow of water occurs due to a natural or artificial slope.

The biggest disadvantage open system are unreinforced walls prone to shedding and slipping of the soil.

The task of any drainage system or a separate ditch is the timely removal of melt, ground and rain water.

The system protects vegetable beds and orchards from flooding, and prevents washing out fence posts and building foundations.

The importance of strengthening walls

Arrangement closed system requires significant financial investments from the owners. Therefore, more often the choice is made in favor of open ditches to drain water from the site.

Open furrows and trenches gradually crumble - the soil slides off the walls and settles at the bottom, reducing the depth of the engineering structure and making it difficult to drain water. The only possible way out in such a situation would be to strengthen the walls. Moreover, it is better to do this in advance, even during the construction of the drainage system. If the strengthening is carried out later, you will have to deal with the "extra" soil that has already fallen to the bottom. Cleaning a drainage system of any length is a long and laborious process.

Strengthening Technology

The choice of the way to strengthen the ditches occurs depending on the length of the drainage structures and the steepness (shape) of the walls. The greater the height of the walls and the steeper their projection, the more reliable fixation will be required.

Shallow furrows with sloping slopes, as a rule, do not need special reinforcement. They are periodically cleaned with garden tools. A reasonable way to prevent possible shedding would be to plant the slope with plants with a fibrous root system that securely fastens the surface layers of the soil.

The average steepness of the walls requires the use of geogrids or biomats. Reinforcement with improvised materials is allowed. Very steep slopes are reinforced with gratings or biomats.

The only thing to pay attention to is that concrete cannot be used for strengthening, since the proper functioning of the drainage is based precisely on the permeability of the bottom and walls. The drainage system is not the same as storm sewer, so waterproofing is unacceptable here!

Ways to strengthen

To strengthen ditches with an average wall slope angle of 5 to 15 degrees, a geogrid is used. This material is made of polyester threads and is sold by manufacturers in rolls.

Work order:

To strengthen the slopes, they are pre-tamped with a roller.
Then the necessary pieces of the mesh are measured and laid out on the walls, observing the tightness of the join.
For fixing, anchor rods 15 centimeters long or U-shaped metal brackets are used. The recommended distance between the mounts is from 70 centimeters to one meter.
The reinforced mesh can be additionally covered with crushed stone or soil, followed by planting with plants (mint, periwinkle are suitable).

To work, in addition to the grid, you will need a manual roller, tape measure, scissors, a marker, a hammer and fasteners.

To strengthen ditches with a large angle of inclination of the walls (from 15 degrees or more), biomats are most often used.

This material in its structure resembles a washcloth - several layers of a mesh structure are superimposed on each other, and then fused into a single whole under the influence of high temperatures. The biomat does not interfere with the growth of grasses, which allows additional compaction of the walls of the ditch.

Work order:

The walls are leveled and thoroughly cleaned of debris.
The edge of the mat is fixed at the top of the wall with anchor rods.
Then the roll unfolds to the very bottom and is cut to the desired size.
The lower part of the biomat is fixed with anchor rods.
The procedure is repeated until the ditch is completely strengthened along its entire length. The mat pieces are overlapped (approximately 10-15 cm), and the joints are also reinforced with anchor rods.
The laid mats are covered with a layer of soil into which plants are sown (mint, periwinkle, saxifrage, bryozoan). It will take about 40 grams of seeds per one square meter soil.

For work, in addition to biomats, you will need a hammer, anchor rods and a rake for leveling the soil.

Installing a geogrid (durable polypropylene mesh) is another way to reinforce steep slopes. The cells of this material have increased elasticity - they are easily stretched in length and width. The roll rolls along the walls of the ditch. The top cut is fixed with anchors. Also, the grate is fixed over the entire area with hook-shaped fittings. From above, the finished fortification falls asleep thin layer soil and sown with plant seeds.

If funds for industrial materials are not enough, you can use budgetary ways wall fortifications.

Strengthening procedure with car tires:

The walls are cleaned of debris, and then lined with tires. Each row is shifted by half a tire in relation to the previous one.
All tires are connected to each other with wire and additionally strengthened with stakes.
Finished construction covered with sand or soil (including the gaps between the tires).

Strengthening using slate:

The shape of the material does not matter. These can be wavy or straight sheets installed in a ditch previously cleared of dirt.
Sheets are fixed in a ditch with reinforcement or stakes driven into the ground.

The upper cut of the slate may protrude above the edge of the ditch. This does not affect performance in any way. The main thing is that the sheets are overlapped and carefully protected the walls from soil shedding. Such strengthening does not have a long service life, but is one of the easiest and cheapest ways to strengthen the walls of open drainage systems in areas.

Not everyone was lucky enough to become the owner of a land plot on a flat, sunlit and at the same time dry area - many are forced to be content with plots on soils with a high level of groundwater and a high risk of flooding. However, this is not a reason for sadness - you can get rid of this problem!

Features and purpose

Before understanding the features of the drainage ditch, one should dwell on the very concept of "drainage". So, drainage is the process of draining swampy soil and removal of excess moisture from the soil. This term also refers to the device of a system of trenches, ditches and wells, which are designed to drain water. Why is it necessary?

Excess water in the ground creates many problems. Constant "squishing" underfoot and non-drying puddles are just the smallest of them. Other troubles are much worse.

Negative impact on landings. Collect good harvest in conditions high humidity almost unrealistic, the roots of plants rot, and the seedlings simply do not develop.
High groundwater excludes any possibility of arranging a basement or cellar under the house.
A great danger threatens the house itself, as well as additional outbuildings on the site, since during the period of active snow melting, the earth is filled with moisture and begins to swell. This creates additional pressure on the supporting structures and often causes deformation of the supports.

Drainage arrangement is considered great solution, which will help prevent all of the above problems. As a rule, private areas are protected with a drainage ditch in which a pipe is fixed. This system creates good conditions to collect and remove water to a lower zone.

It is quite possible to create protective structures in the country on your own, but this must be done before the start of improvement work. Drainage ditch, pipe or well - these elements form the drainage system on the site.

Even before the start of work on the arrangement of the site, it is important to determine the likelihood of flooding, as well as evaluate your own capabilities and choose a drainage system that best suits the terrain and budget possibilities.

There are several types of drainage ditch.

open drainage- this system is considered the simplest, it does not require serious earthworks, the only thing that is needed is to dig several ditches throughout the site, and also bring a storm pipe there. Such a system allows you to effectively remove excess irrigation and rainwater.
deep drainage- this option is more laborious, it is used in areas where groundwater is located close to the surface, as well as in clay soils with poor moisture absorption. basis drainage structure here is a pipe, reinforced in a previously dug trench. The latter, in turn, leads to a special water collector or a larger collector pipe.
vertical drainage- such a system involves the arrangement of a network of several wells that are mounted around the building, the moisture poured into them is pumped out by a pump. This is an efficient system, however, it requires careful engineering calculations and costly work.

Where is it needed and what are the requirements?

A drainage ditch is most often provided for in relatively small areas, this is due to the low degree of automation of work on its implementation, the need regular repairs and short service life. For industrial purposes, ditches are practically not used.

There are certain SNiPs that establish standards and requirements for drainage ditches.

In accordance with them, it is strictly forbidden to bring a trench with storm water to:

water bodies inhabited by living organisms;
washed out ravines or unfortified ditches;
flowing streams and rivers;
reservoirs, on the banks of which family recreation areas are equipped;
lowlands prone to swamping.

It is not allowed to install a drainage ditch on land plots in cases where the height of the groundwater flow is less than 2 meters. Otherwise wastewater may enter watercourses. For such areas, experts recommend equipping channels equipped with closed hatches.

All types of drainage systems are subject to the standards of SP 104-34-96 and SNiP 2.05.07-85. They specify the permissible angles of inclination, the maximum distances to residential facilities and other structures, as well as best options performance depending on the characteristics of the soil, terrain, as well as the required bandwidth ditches.

In accordance with them, the following requirements are distinguished.

On flat terrain, the angle of inclination should not exceed 3-5% - this roughly corresponds to a height difference of 3-5 cm every 10 meters.
The drainage ditch should be arranged away from fences and load-bearing structures of the house and outbuildings, otherwise there is a high probability of blurring their base. Therefore, the distance from the ditch to the erected structures must be at least 30 cm, and the walls of the drainage system must be sealed without fail so that water is not washed out under the foundations.

Advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of a drainage ditch are obvious - this is the possibility of effective removal excess moisture from the site which means reducing the risk of the following unpleasant phenomena:

flooding of the land;
waterlogging of the soil and the frequent formation of non-drying puddles;
rotting bearing wooden poles building structures;
death of plant roots;
inhibition of the growth of seedlings on the territory of the land allotment;
mold formation and active reproduction of the fungus;
excessive accumulation of dirt in the local area;
development of chronic bronchopulmonary diseases due to constantly high humidity.

A nice bonus is the possibility of self-arranging a ditch. This does not require any special equipment, every adult can take a shovel and dig a trench, and, of course, this is the lowest-budget drainage method, since it requires almost no financial costs.

But among the shortcomings, you can specify the following:

the ditch is less efficient than the storm sewer;
this type of drainage system has a rather short period of use;
the ditch requires regular maintenance and periodic compaction, as well as clearing and restoring the embankment.

Many believe that the drainage ditch significantly worsens the landscape, however, experts assure that, if necessary, it is possible to decorate the trench so that it harmoniously fits into the overall design of the site.

How to do it yourself?

Owners of dachas and suburban areas most often they are engaged in arranging a drainage ditch with their own hands.

In order for the drainage system to be as efficient as possible, first mark the site, and then wait for the first heavy rain and look where the most water accumulates - it is from there that it is necessary to remove water in the first place.
The easiest way to make ditches is if the land on the site has a natural slope, then the only thing you need is to dig a U-shaped hole along the fence. Although quite often a trench is dug in the form of a Christmas tree, the “branches” of which are brought to different parts of the land allotment, and then brought together into a single “trunk”.

The depth of the ditch should be 70 cm, and the width should be about 40-50 cm. It should start above the level of the house in order to fully collect the runoff of melt and rainwater, and be discharged outside the site through the installed drainage pipes.
The bottom of the trench is usually laid out with crushed stone, which is tightly compacted, and a perforated corrugated drainpipe with a diameter of about 10 cm is laid on the gravel.
At the final stage, the pipes are wrapped with a layer of geotextile and the slopes of the trench are strengthened.

If the site is devoid of slope, then other types of drainage system should be preferred.

Many summer residents in the arrangement of the territory are faced with this problem. The presence of groundwater, swampy soil leads to the creation of a drainage system. Moreover, the flooding of the site occurs for other reasons. Stormy rains or heavy snowmelt in the spring leads to flooding of the house, basement or other utility rooms.

But before you strengthen the ditch in the country, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with its device and choose the most suitable option wall fixings.

Ditch device

The creation of an effective drainage system requires the presence of at least two independent networks.

Linear is designed to drain directly the site itself. Usually it is erected when there is constant flooding. From the top topographic point, branches of closed ditches should be spread, while ensuring a slope of 5-10 mm per meter. All water goes into an open drainage system.
Second independent network must protect the foundation basements at home. Here, the reference point is the far corner of the building. The perimeter drainage ditch should also have a slight drop of 0.5 percent. To cover it, use turf or concrete paving slabs.
Any trench of this system must be at least 50 cm deep and wide. Near the foundation, this figure may be higher. For the device of drainage, such a simple method as fascines (these are bundles of rods and branches) or wooden boxes is used.
Gravel, crushed stone or just sand of different fractions are often used to strengthen the bottom. But at the same time, the walls of the ditch periodically settle and crumble. Today there are several effective ways that will allow this to be avoided.

The main ways to strengthen

Before choosing reliable way, it is worth carefully measuring the angle of inclination that the walls of the ditch have.

If the slope angle does not exceed 8%, then it will be enough to strengthen it with the help of various plants.
Biomats or geogrids are used with a steepness of 8 to 15%.
If the angle exceeds 15%, then geogrids and gabions cannot be dispensed with. True, with a shallow depth, you can simply use stones and drive them into the slope.

Use of slate and tires

One of the most simple ways strengthening the walls of the ditch can become ordinary slate.

In addition to the sheets will be needed metal pipes or fittings, a shovel and a crowbar, as well as a grinder and a respirator.
With the help of a grinder, the sheets are cut into identical pieces. They are placed directly into the ground to a depth of 25-30 cm straight or with a slight slope. The sheets should fit snugly against each other.
Reinforcing bars are driven in from two sides in a checkerboard pattern. It is best if they are treated with an anti-corrosion compound or paint before that.
Western builders came up with another inexpensive way fortifications with car tires. Old tires can be laid in rows and fastened together. Stakes hammered into the middle will give additional strength. The space inside can be filled with soil, but it is better to use sand or fine gravel. It is also useful for voids between tires.
There is another way. Tires can be stacked in several rows. In this case, each overlying one is shifted by half the diameter. Then the tires also fall asleep. Using tires is very cheap, especially if you can get them for free or for next to nothing.

Of course, you can't count on too much long term services, so you should look at more expensive, but reliable materials.

Installation of geomats and geogrids

Geo- and biomats are nothing more than polymers with a waterproof structure. Polypropylene gratings are superimposed on each other under the action of high temperature. This structure is more like a washcloth, but this is done so that various plants can grow through the holes.

The first step is to prepare the slope itself. It is necessary not only to level it, but also to clean it of any debris.
Geomats are sold in rolls, so the top edge is aligned with top ditches and fixed there with anchor bolts.
The roll is rolled to the bottom, and then cut and secured with anchors.
The next roll should overlap with a tolerance of about 15 cm.
Then you need to cover everything with a small layer of soil and use the seeds for sowing. Usually enough 40 grams per m².
The geogrid is also available in rolls. It has a polyester base and square cells. Installation will require a tape measure, a marker, scissors, a hammer, as well as a rake and a hand roller.
It is with the help of a roller that the slope surfaces are well compacted and leveled.

Each roll must be cut into a certain number of pieces, after which they should be laid tightly on the slope directly to each other. Anchor metal rods or staples are used for fastening. They are especially needed in places where there is a high probability of strong winds.
The geogrid is also covered with a layer of soil and plants such as periwinkle, mint or bryozoan are planted. True, you can just use small gravel or pebbles.

But for a more durable strengthening, you will need the use of a geogrid.

It is based on polypropylene and polyethylene. This alone suggests that this is a very high-strength and durable product. In addition, the geogrid is not afraid of corrosion and can last for many years.

Since the cells of the geogrid can be stretched both in length and in width, their tight adhesion to the soil or crushed stone occurs. In addition to rolls, you will need anchor fasteners, scissors, a hammer, as well as fine gravel and sand. You may need a pump.
Installation work can only be carried out when the drainage ditch is not filled with water and all slopes are absolutely dry. Therefore, it is necessary not only to pump out water, but also to prepare the surface. It is necessary to remove all debris, large stones and branches. In this case, small grass can not be touched.
The geogrid is spread along the entire length of the ditch. In this case, an unnecessary piece must be cut off immediately.

by the most milestone considered to be correct. After all, then the service life will be at least twenty years. You can buy fasteners or make your own. For this, hooks from ordinary fittings are used. The thickness should be 1.5 cm, and the length should be 50–110 cm. Such hooks are placed at a distance of 30 cm from each other in a checkerboard pattern.
It remains only to fix all the cells well. Sand is suitable for a dry ditch. If it is often filled with water, then it is better to use crushed stone or river pebbles. Even better if the slopes are sown ground cover plants. Over time, this will lead to even more adhesion to the geogrid.

The most expensive but most good decision can be the strengthening of the slopes of the ditch with the help of a gabion.

Advantages of the gabion

This factory product is a product made in the form of a parallelepiped of metal mesh double twist and filled with large stone or crushed stone.

For the manufacture of gabions at the factory, a special galvanized wire is used, which also has PVC coating. It is she who reliably protects this structure from corrosion, aggressive chemical environment and mechanical damage. Even heavy loads are not terrible. The average service life can be more than 70 years. But this affects the cost.
Therefore, you can make a gabion on their own. To do this, you will need reinforcement bars having a diameter of 6 mm, as well as electric welding. In addition, you need to stock up on a tape measure, a marker, a grinder, a chain-link mesh, a shovel and a wheelbarrow. You will also need cobblestones.
Design with dimensions of 80 × 40 × 80 cm is suitable for small area. Reinforcing bars are welded together, forming a rectangular structure. The width of the cells will depend on the diameter of the selected stones.

With the help of a shovel, it is necessary to prepare and widen the slopes of the ditch. Only then can be placed along the entire coast of the cell.
Each cell is filled with large cobblestones and, if necessary, several rows are installed at once.
The chain-link mesh is attached from above for better fixing. In order to avoid the need to change it often, it is better to choose a mesh that will also have a PVC coating. From above it is easy to strengthen with the help of cobblestones. In addition, it gives the whole structure a good decorative look.

Gabions can last the longest, while they fit well into the ecosystem. Manufacturers guarantee at least a hundred years of service.

Arrangement of the drainage system

Before you start strengthening the walls of the ditch, you need to properly equip the drainage system itself.

In addition to creating the desired slope, it is necessary to correctly make the bottom of the trench. For this, sand and fine gravel are used. With their help, the necessary pillow for the drainage pipe is made.

It is protected by a volumetric gravel filter, as well as geotextiles, which prevent excess debris and soil from entering.

Most often, ceramic or perforated asbestos-cement pipes are used for drainage. But recently, plastic gutters have also begun to be used.

Note! Do not forget about the drainage well, where excess water will drain. After all, the ditch, in which there is constantly water, begins to collapse the fastest.

Modern materials will make it possible to well strengthen all the walls of the ditch, and then the threat of flooding will be reduced to almost zero.