How to effectively drain water from the bath. How to make a drain in the bath? Draining water from the bath: diagrams, drawings

Proper drainage of water from the bath is one of the most important points in the construction. Its durability directly depends on this, the absence of harmful smells of raw materials or fungus in it, and how often the foundation will have to be repaired later. In this article, we offer you to understand the various options for the device of the drainage system.

The easiest way is to install a drain pipe

The simplest and most tried and tested for decades draining water in a bath is a drain pipe, which is laid even during the construction of the steam room foundation. It must be done obliquely with respect to the drain pit itself - so you do not have to additionally insulate it.

The pit itself should be dug at a distance of 3 to 5 meters from the bath, and it is imperative to strengthen its edges from possible collapses. It is better if these are concrete rings - or a frame filled with concrete. But the bottom of the pit is important to make it so that the water in it is absorbed into the soil freely.

So that the drain of water for the bath does not become clogged, it is advisable to make the pipe completely without bends - after all, it is from them that it is most difficult to remove debris. And yes - you can only take a sewer pipe for these purposes, the diameter of which has its own strictly defined value.

Installing a drain pipe is quite simple, just follow these instructions:

Step 1. A pit is being prepared, and a trench is digging from it to the bathhouse.
Step 2. A drain pipe is installed - and it is not necessary to insulate it, but it will not hurt.
Step 3. A cement floor is made in the washing room, with a slope around the entire perimeter to the drain pipe. It is important that the floor really turns out without dents - then water should not stagnate anywhere.
Step 4. So that the bath can work all year round without any problems, the water drain is equipped with a grid - all garbage will collect on it, and there will be no blockages in the pipe.
Step 5. After all this, you can lay tile tiles on the cement floor - of the color and style that you like and matches the style of the bath interior. And already wooden grates with special impregnation are placed on the tiles - so that during pleasant bath procedures you do not have to walk barefoot on hot tiles.

Where and how best to drain the water?

But where the water itself will go - it all depends on the planned budget and the load on the drainage. So, it never hurts to build a separate cesspool at a distance from the bath, and already lay a trench from it and lay a sewer tube in it in good insulation.

And the most budget option is right under the washing bookmark of gravel (both large and small), where the water will go.

Funnel - easy

Some attendants still make something like a funnel under the washing and steam rooms - they concrete its walls and smear them with liquid glass. In the center of such a funnel is a drain pipe that extends beyond the bath: into a pit, the walls of which are reinforced with bricks, or the pit itself is an old iron barrel without a bottom.

At the bottom of the pit - gravel, on top - a cover made of thick metal and a hole for a ventilation pipe. Judging by the reviews, such a simple but reliable system can not be opened for ten years.

We also recommend reading the article about installing a shower drain in the floor under the tiles on the Vannapedia website - the technology for installing a classic water drain system is very well described there.

Drain hole outside the bath

But some builders today are convinced that water must be taken out of the bath. Like, the sand dries for a long time even in summer, and in winter all the water that goes under the foundation in the old fashioned way will simply turn into ice - and you can forget about warm floors in the steam room until spring.

Others are sure that very little water is used for one or two people in the bath, the steam room is usually used from time to time, and if the sand is not taken as ordinary, but as a large fraction, then no problems should arise ...

But the pit itself can be made using a technology that has recently become especially popular among attendants: the pit is made from the tires of a jeep or a car similar to it. Water flows into this pit through plastic pipes, and so that neither cold nor unpleasant odors get into the bathhouse in winter, a water seal is made - something like a hydraulic lock:

Point 1. A five-liter plastic bucket is taken, a handle is made of galvanized tape, and an iron pipe is placed on the lowest cord from the top tire - across the pit. A bucket is hung on it - it will hang like a cauldron over a fire, below the upper level of the pit.

Point 2. A corrugation is put on the end of the sewer pipe, which is lowered from above into the bucket - it will be at a distance of 10 cm from the bottom and 10 cm from the edge, i.e. in the middle of the bucket. That's the whole hydraulic lock - after draining, all the water will be collected in a bucket and overflow over the edge, gently flowing into the pit. And when the drain stops, the water that remains in the bucket will not allow the same air to enter the bath. And, even if dirt or leaves settle on the bottom of the bucket, it can always be turned over to clean it.

What system to make for a large number of people?

For a steam room, which three or four friends visit from time to time, one water outlet in the bath is needed, but for a whole company of regulars it is already different. In a bath for a small number of bathers, a drain pit is usually arranged right under the foundation. Its walls can be lined with bricks and covered with coarse sand - for a summer bath, that's it. But in the second case, you will already need a special pipe that will go to the drainage well - and below the freezing level of the soil, otherwise it will freeze. Or you can combine both methods - using the first in summer, and the second in winter.

And so that the water from the bath does not waste in vain and does not pollute the environment, you can use a septic tank that will clean it and distribute it through irrigation pipelines. The most complex and expensive way to remove and purify water from a bath is a well with biological filters. It contains slag, brick battle and rubble. The whole secret is that with the constant entry of bath wastewater into the well, it eventually becomes covered with silt, and in the sludge there are microorganisms that then purify the wastewater. Such a septic tank is usually built in the lowest place on the site.

That's all! Nothing complicated - a competent drain in the bath can be done with your own hands.

Probably, the vast majority of owners of summer cottages and suburban private houses cannot imagine their life without their own, since such a structure is an integral part of ancient Russian traditions. A bath is not only a place for washing, but also a kind of home “dispensary”, working to restore the strength and health of the owners, for the necessary periodic relaxation. But in order for it to bring only pleasant sensations, its arrangement, and in particular - all the necessary communications, must be done in accordance with all the rules.

One of the traditionally problematic components of the bath system is the disposal of used water, so it is very important to properly organize its removal and collection point. Discharging contaminated, untreated wastewater onto the ground or into natural water bodies is strictly prohibited, and such an approach will inevitably lead to penalties from environmental supervisory authorities. Therefore, in the absence of a centralized sewage system (as it most often happens), a special pit of storage or drainage action is usually created for these purposes. And in order for the drain pit for the bath to function effectively, it is necessary to study its design before starting construction, and during the period of work on the arrangement, follow the recommendations of experienced craftsmen.

The main types of drain pits

The arrangement of any drain pit is a rather laborious process, since the pit will most likely have to be dug manually. At the same time, such a hydraulic structure does not differ in the complexity of the design, so any owner of the site can build and equip it on their own, without even involving assistants, of course, if there is enough strength for earthmoving.

Drainage pits can be divided into three main types - a sealed container, a pit with drainage capacity, and consisting of several chambers.

To begin with, let's figure out what each of the varieties is in principle.

A sealed drain pit is most often equipped at construction sites with shallow ground aquifers. It is often called a cesspool, that is, requiring periodic emptying of the collected volumes of dirty water.

For its construction, a pit is dug into which a container with a sufficiently large volume is installed. It will collect sewage. As the tank fills up to a certain critical level, the waste is pumped out by a sewage machine.

This option is environmentally friendly, since no contaminants and chemical cleaning solutions enter the soil and groundwater, which can adversely affect the condition of the fertile soil on the site, as well as have a negative impact on high ground aquifers. However, this option is not convenient and economical, since you will have to constantly monitor the filling level of the tank and often call specialized vehicles, and such services are not cheap.

Prices for septic tanks

A hermetically closed bottom is not created in the drainage drain pit. As it is used a bulk layer of filter building material - most often crushed stone or gravel is chosen for this purpose.

In addition, often holes are also made in the walls of the drainage pit at a certain height through which water will be absorbed into the soil. This option is great for a bath and is perhaps the easiest to build, however, if the characteristics of the soil on the site allow it.

A septic tank is a whole system consisting of two or more chambers with different purposes.

In any of the options, the first chamber most often has a sealed design and serves to collect, primary filter and treat waste - solid components settle to the bottom, and liquid ones are clarified, undergo a biological treatment cycle due to the action of aerobic microorganisms. This container is connected to the second chamber with a special overflow pipe - the clarified liquid waste flows into the next compartment, which is already organized according to the principle of a drainage well. Water passes through the drainage, is cleaned and absorbed into the soil.

If a septic tank of three tanks is planned, then the third chamber is made drainage. The second one serves for the final settling of suspensions, deeper purification of water through the action of anaerobic microorganisms. And from here comes the overflow of the purified liquid into the drainage well.

A septic tank is most often equipped in the case when it is supposed to collect the entire considerable amount of liquid waste from both a residential building and a bathhouse.

What is important to know about the design and rules of septic tank equipment?

A septic tank is already a rather complex engineering structure, the creation of which must obey certain rules. Often, homeowners prefer to install a prefabricated prefabricated system. What are the rules for arranging such a treatment plant, and what to pay special attention to when - read in a special publication of our portal.

Materials for arranging a drain pit for a bath

Various materials can be used to build drainage type bath drain pits. Their choice directly depends on the estimated volume of effluents, the financial capabilities of the owners of the site and the convenience of construction.

Drainage pit from barrels

To create this water drainage system, metal or plastic barrels of various sizes are used. However, such a drain can be equipped in different ways:

First option. At the bottom of the excavated pit, covered with drainage material 300 ÷ 400 mm thick - crushed stone or coarse gravel, after tamping, a barrel with perforated walls and a cut bottom is installed. This takes into account the fact that between the walls of the barrel and the pit there should be a space of at least 100 mm, which is also filled with drainage backfill.

A pipe is brought into the barrel at the required slope angle, through which the used water from the bath will flow into the container. These runoffs will gradually, through the holes in the walls and through the bottom part, seep into the drainage layer, be cleaned, and then soak into the surrounding soil. In some cases, not only the free space of the pit is filled with drainage material, but even the barrel itself, that is, water will flow immediately into the drainage layers, and then into the ground. This way the barrel will never fill up.

It must be correctly understood that such a scheme is not suitable for collecting other types of wastewater from a residential building. For a bath, which is used for its intended purpose once or twice a week, such a pit becomes one of the best options.

Second option. In this method of arranging the pit, two barrels are used, installed at different levels - one is about 200 mm higher than the other. They are interconnected at the top with an overflow pipe. Water from the bath enters the first upper container, soapy sediment and solid suspensions settle in it, and when it is filled, the water overflows into the second barrel, to which one or two long drainage pipes with perforated walls are attached.

The outlet pipes from the second tank are laid in drainage trenches with gravel or crushed stone filling, through which the water purified from chemical precipitation will be distributed, moistening the soil. The trenches are covered from above with a layer of fertile soil, approximately 500 mm thick, and can be planted with ornamental shrubs, which will constantly receive watering. Thus, two problems are solved at once - the removal of water from the bath and the irrigation of plants on the site.

This option for arranging a drain pit will be discussed in detail below.

Brick drain hole

The arrangement of the walls of the drain pit can be done with the help of bricks, which are laid out with gaps - through them, water is drained into the drainage backfill and further into the ground. The difference between this pit and the first version, made from a barrel, differs only in material, but the principle of operation remains the same. A drainage layer is poured into the gap between the soil and brick walls, which will purify the water and distribute it throughout the pit, diverting it into the ground.

A pit made of brick is more durable and designed for a larger volume of water. Moreover, if you dig a pit deep enough, and make the bottom and lower part of the walls airtight, then this design may well be used to drain other waste, but in this case the pit will have to be periodically cleaned.

To equip such a variant of the drain pit, it is not at all necessary to use a new brick - the used material is also quite suitable.

Prices for metal barrels

metal barrels

Drainage pit made of concrete rings

If there are financial and technical possibilities, then the drainage pit can be built from concrete perforated rings, which are installed in the prepared pit. After installing the rings at the bottom of such a well, a drainage backfill is arranged.

In this option, the entire space between the walls, as in the previous cases, is also covered with drainage material, so the pit, provided that it is used only for bathing needs, will never be filled with water. In the same case, when the pit is deep enough and the bottom of the well is cemented, then such a pit is suitable not only for a bath, but also for a common one. True, this will require additional calculations, an assessment of the absorbent properties of adjacent soils and the location of aquifers.

Pit from old car tires

A drainage pit made from waste car tires can only be used for liquid waste, so it is the best fit for collecting periodically incoming water from the bath.

Tires are installed in different ways: in some cases, holes are cut in their side walls, in others a small gap is provided between the slopes, in others, the outer walls are almost completely cut off, but the principle of operation of the drainage pit remains the same.

This option for draining water from the bath can be called the most popular, as it is easy to arrange, affordable (tires are easy to find for free) and practical to use.

On the diagram, the numbers indicate:

1 - Crushed stone or gravel of a large fraction - drainage backfill, with a layer of 250 ÷ 300 mm thick.

2 - Old car tires.

3 - Drain pipe from the bath (there may be two of them)

4 - Crossbars for laying the cover.

5 - Cover or hatch.

Around the laid out stack of wheels, and sometimes inside the resulting well, a drainage cushion is backfilled, which makes it possible to retain and purify the water coming from the bath. With good drainage capacity of the soil and periodic use of the bath, the pit never overflows.

It should be noted that other materials that can withstand exposure to high humidity are also suitable for building a drain bath pit.

How to independently equip a drain pit for a bath

Soil survey at the site of the planned drain pit

In order for the drainage system from the bath to be effective, it is necessary to determine the type of soil in the area at the approximate depth of the planned pit. To do this, a trench or test hole is dug. In order for the bath to be used in winter, the depth must be below the freezing level of the soil. Information about soil freezing in a particular area is easy to find on the Internet, or you can consult with the owners of neighboring plots who have been using systems of such drainage for a long time.

Prices for concrete rings

concrete rings

Sandy soils, sandy loams, including those with stony inclusions, have good drainage capabilities.

But dense clay layers can cause problems. At high humidity, they are well saturated with water, swell, and become practically waterproof, when dried, they shrink. In addition, they are highly susceptible to frost swelling. These qualities of such soils are unfavorable both for laying and when laying pipes in trenches, as they can lead to deformations and damage to themselves and other elements of the system.

To build a drainage pit in such soil, if it extends to a great depth, is an almost meaningless exercise. Well, if it is necessary to lay a pipe through such layers to a drainage pit that reaches the depth of the soil with high absorbency, then the bottom of the trench must be lined with a sand cushion 100 ÷ 120 mm thick, which will prevent the hard impact of ground vibrations on the elements of the drain system.

The level of occurrence of groundwater (GWL) is also important, since the degree of absorption of water entering the drain pit will also directly depend on this. So, between the bottom of the pit and the location of a stable aquifer, there should be a distance of about 1000 mm. If the groundwater is located close to the surface, then the polluted water will not go well into the drainage, and such a well will soon turn into a fetid pit, as it will be constantly filled. In this case, as with clay soils, the drainage pit option will not work. You will either have to install a sealed container that requires periodic emptying, or organize water drainage to special surface filtration fields.

Having chosen the material for the construction of the pit, it is necessary to decide on several more important points of its arrangement, on which the efficiency of the system depends, the environmental safety of both the site itself and its inhabitants.

First of all, you need to decide on the place where the pit will be located.

Quite often, owners have a drainage pit directly under the building, but this becomes possible only if:

- the pit is equipped before the construction itself;

- the building rises above the ground on a columnar or pile foundation, which will need to be well waterproofed;

- good ventilation should be provided under the bath building;

- the sewer pipe connecting the drain of the bath and the pit will require effective thermal insulation.

If the pit is located separately, away from the bathhouse, then it must be provided that it is at the required distance from sources of drinking water, natural reservoirs, residential and outbuildings, trees, the border of the site and the road passing near it. The required standards are shown in the diagram below:

The pit should be located below the level of the drain hole in the floor of the bath, at least 150 ÷ 200 mm, and the recommended distance from the bath building is 3 ÷ 5 meters.

If the drain pit has to be located close enough to the structure of the bath, then:

- the bottom of the pit should have a slope of 20 ÷ 25 degrees, diverting water from the walls of the building;

- perforation in the walls of the barrel, concrete rings or tires, must be done from the side that will be farther from the walls of the bath;

It is very important to observe the correct slope of the sewer pipe so that dirty water does not stagnate inside the channel, but immediately goes into the drainage pit, there is no risk of freezing when using the bathhouse in winter. It is especially necessary to remember this in cases where it is decided to place the pit far enough from the bath. The amount of slope required depends on the selected pipe diameter - this is quite clearly indicated by the diagram below:

It should be noted that to organize the drainage of water from a small bath without a toilet, a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm is usually sufficient. In order to maintain the desired slope, when digging a connecting trench, as well as when adding a sandy "cushion" into it, control the difference in its depth using the building level.

Arrangement of a drain drainage pit - step by step

In this section of the publication, two options for drain pits will be considered, which can be equipped independently.

conventional drainage pit

This version of the drainage pit has a design that can be made from various materials, which were discussed above.

Illustration
	After determining the location for the location of the drain pit, you can proceed to digging the pit. For a bath drainage well, a pit depth of 2500 ÷ 3000 mm will be sufficient. It can have a round or square shape in cross section - it will depend on the chosen material for arranging the walls. For example, if the pit is made out of brick, then it is more convenient to lay a square or rectangular shape out of it, but in some cases a round well is also completely formed from it. The diameter of the pit should be 150÷200 mm larger than the prepared container.
	When the pit is prepared, a trench is dug from it to the building of the bath at the right angle for laying the drainage pipe. The width of the trench can be 300 ÷ 500 mm, and the depth will depend on the level of soil freezing in the area where the bathhouse is built, but not less than 500 mm at the entrance to the well.
	The bottom of the finished pit is covered with stone of the middle fraction - it is gravel, crushed stone, chipped brick or even broken slate. The drainage layer must be at least 300 mm, since it is designed to retain dirty water and clean it, that is, moisture must flow to the soil by capillary action, which will allow it to be quickly absorbed.
	Further, they act differently. You can immediately lay a sewer pipe, and then work on the brick walls of the water intake well, or first install or build a container, and in the course of its construction, a drainage pipe is inserted into one of the specially made holes. Most often, the pipe is laid at a time when the walls are brought out to the level of the depth of the trench, otherwise it will simply interfere with work.
	So, the walls of the drain well can be built of brick. Masonry is carried out in compliance with the clearance between adjacent bricks in a row of 40 ÷ 50 mm. The wall can have a thickness of half a brick or one brick - this parameter is chosen by the builder, and to a greater extent depends on the amount of prepared material. Having raised the walls of the well by another 200 ÷ 300 mm, the space between the soil walls and the brick walls is filled with drainage backfill.
	If concrete perforated rings are used to form the walls, then specialized equipment will have to be involved in their installation, since each of them has an impressive mass, and distortions should not be allowed during installation. After their installation, the distance between the soil and concrete must also be filled with drainage backfill. It should also be noted here that if concrete rings are used for the pit, then one should not rush to install the walls of the sewer pipe into the hole, since under their weight they can sink somewhat into the ground - it happens that by 100 ÷ 150 mm. Therefore, it is recommended that the finished concrete well be left alone for some time to shrink, otherwise the plastic pipe may crack or break from the pressure and stress that has arisen.
	When using metal barrels for the pit, the bottom and lid are cut off from them, and the side walls can simply be cut with the help of a grinder. The cuts are made at a distance from each other of 200÷250 mm horizontally and in increments of 100÷120 mm in height. If two barrels are used, they are placed one on top of the other. After installing the lower one, the free space around its walls is filled with drainage. After that, in the second of them, in the upper one, a hole is marked and cut out through which a drainage pipe will be installed in the barrel. A marking hole can be cut with a grinder, but an opening made with an electric jigsaw will still be more accurate. To do this, a hole is drilled at one of the points of the marked circle, into which the nail file of the tool should freely enter.
	If plastic barrels are prepared for the drain pit, then they are mounted in approximately the same way as metal ones, but quite often the drain pipe is connected through the top cover of the container. In a plastic barrel, the bottom can also be cut off or several round holes with a diameter of 100 ÷ 120 mm are cut into it.
	Holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled in the side walls along the entire perimeter of the polymer container with a frequency of 100 ÷ 150 mm horizontally and vertically. Around the barrel and under it, crushed stone or gravel is backfilled, into which, as in previous cases, water will flow from the holes of the barrel, be cleaned and go into the ground.
	The most commonly used and material for arranging the drainage well of the bath are car tires, which are stacked one on top of the other. On the inside, at the edges of the tires, in three or four places, holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled, through which they are fastened together by means of, for example, plastic clamps-puffs. The sewer pipe can be brought between two tires. In this case, for emphasis, along the edges of the plastic pipe and in three or four more places between the tires at the place of its passage, bricks are installed that will remove the load from the plastic from the upper slopes.
	Another option for driving a pipe is to install it in a hole cut in the side wall of the tire. When choosing this method, it is necessary to foresee the possible shrinkage of the structure by cutting a hole larger than the pipe diameter by 70 ÷ 80 mm.
	Quite often, the drain bath pit is not filled with drainage material around the barrels or tires, but is filled with it by two-thirds - this allows water to slowly flow to the soil walls and slowly soak into them.
	It is recommended to strengthen the top of the pit with brick walls by equipping a concrete platform with a hole for the hatch. To do this, a formwork is built around the well, into which a reinforcing grid is laid, and then it is poured with concrete mortar, a layer 70 ÷ 80 mm thick.
	After the concrete has hardened, a homemade cover made of a steel sheet and a corner is installed on the hole. Factory-made hatches, metal or plastic, are also quite applicable.
	Special plastic sewer manholes can have various shapes and linear parameters. So, when planning to install this particular option, the hatch is purchased in advance, and the top cover of the drain pit is already equipped according to its size.
	A well made of concrete rings is usually covered with a special cover made of the same material with a ready-made hole for a plastic or cast-iron hatch.
	The walls of the well, built from tires or from barrels, have less rigidity than brick or concrete, so it is best to strengthen them with cement mortar mixed with crushed stone. If the drainage was filled up between the walls of the well and the soil, then its upper layer, standing 120 ÷ 150 mm, is recommended to be made from the solution mentioned above. Further, the top of the pit can be left in this state by simply installing a hatch on the hole, or you can equip a concrete platform above the structure with its subsequent backfilling.

Pit on the principle of a two-chamber septic tank with an output to the filtration field

The second option is more complex in design, but its functionality is much higher. This system is perfect for arranging in areas with groundwater close to the surface, since it does not require a deep pit. In addition, such a design can also be a solution for organizing drainage water from the foundation, from a storm well filled from linear storm water inlets on the site or their gutters on the eaves of the roof of the house.

To figure out how to cope with the arrangement of such a hydraulic structure, you should consider this process in detail.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	For this system, two plastic barrels are used, which are easy to prepare for installation work and connect to sewer pipes from the same material. Usually, two or three containers with a volume of 200 ÷ 250 liters are enough for a drain pit of a small bath.
	The pit for the installation of barrels is also dug 100 ÷ 150 mm larger than their diameter, and due to the fact that containers of equal size will be installed at different levels, the pit for them should have a stepped configuration. The depth of the pit in this system should be 450 ÷ 500 mm more than the height of the barrel. This distance will be needed to equip a drainage cushion under the barrel and a recess for the pipe entering it. The difference in the installation level of the tanks should be 150÷200 mm, and the distance between them varies between 200 and 300 mm. Barrels are installed in one line. The bottom of the pit is compacted and covered with rubble of medium fraction, with a layer 80 ÷ 100 mm thick, which also needs to be compacted.
	Next, you can proceed to work on the preparation of containers. The barrel installed above will serve as the primary chamber, that is, a sump for dirty water. A neat hole is cut in its top cover into which a drain pipe will be installed. In the side wall, on the opposite side from the hole in the lid, holes are cut for the pipe, which will connect the first barrel to the second one, installed somewhat lower. To insert plastic pipes into the lid or into the walls of the barrel, you can find special flanges in the plumbing store, such as the one shown in the illustration.
	If not, then you will have to cut a hole with maximum accuracy, and then for sealing - do not spare high-quality silicone sealant.
	Additionally, it is recommended to cut a hole for installing a ventilation pipe with a diameter of 40 ÷ 50 mm, or install a tee, as shown in the illustration, where one outlet will be designed to connect the sewer drain pipe from the bath, and the other, vertical, for the ventilation pipe.
	The second barrel is equipped with three holes, one of which is drilled in the top cover, and two - in the side wall, below the top edge by 100÷120 mm. The axes of these side windows must be turned radially from the axis of the central hole by 45 degrees.
	Branch pipes with 45-degree bends installed on them are cut into the side holes and sealed. As a result, the pipes for connecting the drainage pipes will become parallel to each other - as shown in the illustration.
	Additionally, in the lower part of the walls of the second barrel being installed, on the opposite side of the entrance, small holes are drilled, 5 mm in diameter, at a distance of 150 ÷ 170 mm from each other. This is an additional outlet of water to the drainage backfill around the barrel. However, if powerful filter fields will certainly cope with their task, and even more so if such a septic tank has to be installed in the immediate vicinity of the bath, then this operation is not mandatory.
	The result should be such a design, as shown in the illustration. Having mounted a system of barrels and nozzles, you can proceed to the creation of a filtration drainage field.
	For the drainage platform, which is located at a slope from the installed barrels, a trench is dug, having a width of 1200 ÷ 1500 mm and the same depth to which the first barrel above is buried. If desired, the drainage filter field can be stretched over the entire area, as it will not interfere with the arrangement of beds for annual crops or for planting shrubs above it. A geotextile sheet is laid on the bottom of the resulting channel, on top of which drainage will be laid. Backfilling the trench with crushed stone is done in layers, each of which should be carefully tamped and distributed under a slope along pre-set pegs. The slope of the trench should be approximately 25 mm per linear meter. The pegs pre-installed with the necessary difference in height will become a kind of beacons for the correct backfilling of the drainage layer.
	As the drainage material falls asleep around the lower barrel, water is poured into it, otherwise the external pressure of the soil can deform it. It is recommended to fill the space between the walls of the barrels with gravel or coarse sand, which should be compacted by spilling water. Further, pipes with perforated walls are connected to the nozzles, through which water will be distributed over the drainage site. Holes are drilled in increments of 150÷180 mm along the bottom and sides of the pipes. Pipes after drilling are dressed in a filter "casing" made of geotextile - so that the inside of the pipes is not subjected to silting.
	The next step of the pipe and the entire space of the trench is covered with crushed stone of the middle fraction mixed with sand. Such a layer should reach the lid of the barrel installed below, that is, completely cover the pipes from above with a layer of at least 100 ÷ 120 mm. On top of the rubble, it is best to backfill several different layers of soil. So, crushed stone is first covered with geotextile, on which a layer of moistened sand 70 ÷ 80 mm thick is laid, and the rest of the space can be filled with fertile soil. On this site, it is quite possible to equip a flower bed, plant annual vegetable crops or even small shrubs with a shallow fibrous root system.

At the end of the publication, it should be noted that there are other materials that can sometimes be found in the yard among old stocks or even seemingly unnecessary trash, which in fact may well be suitable for building a drain pit for a bath. For example, you can find a use for old sheets of wave or smooth slate, or even trimmings of corrugated board left after roofing work.

Some resourceful owners of country houses lay out the walls of the drainage well with glass or plastic bottles that are filled with sand, find other very interesting solutions. Therefore, if there is a desire to save money, and at the same time free up part of the yard or sheds from old materials, then you need to turn on the fantasy “to the fullest” - and act! We will be glad if some creative master will share his innovations on the pages of our portal.

Another example of a simple drain for a bath is shown in the video below.

Video: How to make a drain for a bath yourself, at minimal cost

The banya has always been considered a purely Russian form of pastime. She served for bathing, helped keep her body clean and played the role of an outlet for the people. Nowadays it is hard to imagine a house in which it would not be. Many owners who do not have a bath are thinking about building one. One of the questions that arises in connection with the construction is: how to make a drain in the bath with your own hands? After all, a bath is a place where you simply cannot do without the presence of water. And if there is a sufficient amount of liquid, then it is logical that it needs to be put somewhere. Someone might say that the easiest way is when the water drains into a pit, a free space under the floor. But, we want to upset you - this is fraught with the fact that mold will form on the floor, there will always be a smell of rot in the room, and most importantly, the bath can sink, as water will destroy the top layer of soil. And not in all cases it will be possible to arrange it, due to the fact that the soil may have a high content of clay, which does not absorb moisture.

That is why it is important to know how to properly organize a drain for a bath with your own hands and approach this work with special responsibility. In this scenario, your drain will serve for many years. This article will consider several options for how to make a drain in the bath with your own hands. This guide will help you get the job done.

How are the floors in the bath

If we talk about a properly made drain for a bath, then it is impossible not to touch on the topic of arranging the floor. This issue must be approached with no less responsibility. It is worth noting that no matter how well you make a drain for a bath, this is a room with super high humidity. And it is the floor that takes on the lion's share of this moisture.

You should know that the floor in the bath can be made of either wood or concrete. This choice directly depends on what kind of building itself. If this is a capital building, where a shower room, a steam room, a dressing room and a rest room will be used all year round, then it is better to make a reliable concrete floor with reinforced waterproofing. And if this is a wooden bath, and you plan to use it only in the summer, then it is rational to make a wooden floor. This will help you save a lot of money and reduce the amount of work you need.

Note! A wooden floor in a bath will serve you much less than a concrete one. Even if it is completely protected from moisture and high temperature with a special composition, everything will have to be changed over time. You must be ready for this.

How is the concrete floor in the bath

If we talk about concrete coating, then it is more reliable and durable. This floor consists of:

compacted gravel;
layer of concrete;
vapor barrier layer;
a layer of expanded polystyrene as a heater;
waterproofing layer (polyethylene film);
another layer of concrete;
reinforced cement screed;
facing layer (ceramic tiles, etc.).

How is the wooden floor in the bath

As for wooden floors, they can be of two types: solid (non-leaking) and non-solid (leaking). A solid floor is laid on top of a concrete screed. At the same time, it is made so that the surface has a slight slope towards the equipped drain. The boards are fitted close to each other, so there are no gaps. The disadvantage of such a coating for a bath is that water stagnates on the floor, dries for a long time, and the boards quickly begin to undergo a rotting process. It is much better to use a non-continuous floor.

What is its advantage? It is easier to use and will last you longer. The thing is that the boards are fixed not close, but at a small distance from each other. This gap is 5 mm. It is enough so that the water does not stagnate on the surface and more easily goes to the drain. In addition, these slots serve as a fan, drying the floor.

For everything to function correctly, you need to organize a sealed pit under the room. From it, through the pipe, water will outflow into the prepared drain pit. In this pit, it will be necessary to make a water seal so that unpleasant odors do not get inside the bath. Having dealt with the floors, you can figure out how to make a drain in the sink of the bath and other rooms.

How to make a drain in the bath

In order to properly equip the drainage of water, you need to pay special attention to the following indicators:

The power of the drain system. It must be chosen taking into account how many people will visit the steam room, and how often. In addition, this indicator also affects the volume of the well or pit.
The level of groundwater in the place where the bath is built.
The composition and quality of the soil.

Taking into account these indicators, you need to decide how to equip the drain for the bath, what design to use, and what are its features. So you can immediately find out the capacity, depth, material and fastenings. First, you need to make a water collection system inside the bath under a non-solid floor. Let's find out how to do it.

Draining in the bath with your own hands step by step guide

All work is carried out at the stage of foundation construction. It can be tape or columnar. The process is the following:

As a rule, boards may not be nailed to the floor beams. For ease of use, they are made removable. They need to be fastened together with a beam and laid on top. Everything is assembled into shields so that the connecting beam is between the floor beams. A floor made in this way is better to use, since it can be removed and dried in the air. We invite you to see information on how to make a drain in a bath:

Create a waste tank

Now that you have created a liquid collection system, you need to figure out where to drain the drain through the pipes. The first option is a drain tank, which will have a filter bottom. Its purpose is to clean the drain from pollution and retain microorganisms. After that, the water through the bottom goes into the ground, re-cleaning. Various materials can be used as a filter. This is sand, and pieces of bricks and even rubble. If the bath will be used by a family of 3-4 people, then the best size of the well is 2 m deep with a diameter of 1-1.5 m. The shape of the well can be round or square. Still, it is better to choose a cylindrical version, since the pressure on the walls will be uniform. Then it will not need to be repaired often.

It is important to consider that the well should be located 3 to 5 meters from the bath. If it is brought closer, there is a risk of unpleasant odors and destruction of the foundation. And when the well is located very far, more pipes will be needed. The figure shows how this scheme can be implemented.

Most often, the walls of the well are additionally strengthened. The most expensive option is concrete rings. But there are simpler ones, for example, car tires. As a compromise option - brickwork. In addition, you can use a metal or plastic barrel that does not have a bottom. It is important to close the well with a concrete or metal lid and sprinkle it with earth.

Draining water into the sewer

If your site has a central sewer, then everything is much simpler. All that is needed is to properly arrange the floor in the bath, insulate it and organize a drain to the central sewer pipe. As a drain, pipes laid horizontally at an angle to the pipe will be installed. They will receive water that can get inside through the siphon and the drain body.

PVC pipes are laid in the floor at an angle to the riser. It is recommended to fill the trench with sand in advance and compact it. And already on the prepared pillow to install pipes. The difference should be 2 cm by 1 m. The pipes are led to the riser or outside the bath. You will learn more about how to make a drain in the bath from the video:

Drainage of water into the cesspool

Another option for draining water from a bath is to make a drain into a cesspool. This option has some disadvantages, but it is the simplest. We will not consider the phased progress of work, since the principle is already clear. The simple fact is that the water from the bath will go out through the pipe system, directly into the cesspool. All that will be required of you is to pump out the contents as it fills up.

Note! You can do it yourself or call a special service.

Summing up

Draining for a bath is a very important stage of construction work. It is important to give this process enough attention and time. After all, if you do something wrong, then all your work may be in vain. To avoid this, it is important to tune in in advance to equip the drain in the bath with high quality. You need to think in advance which option of water drainage to choose. After all, if your area does not have a sewerage system, then you will have to drain into a cesspool or well. In addition, pay attention to the quality of consumables: pipes, siphon and drain hole. Then your drain will last a long time and reliably.

When building a bath, it is imperative to arrange a high-quality drain. In this case, the smell from stagnant water will not subsequently enter the room. Floors will last much longer. There are several options for arranging a system for draining water from a washing and steam room. We will tell about them further.

The simplest drain in the bath

First, let's see how to make a drain in a bath of the simplest design. In the event that the soil under the building is sandy and easily absorbs water, you can not "bother" and arrange the receiver right in it. At the same time, a hole is dug under the sink, and the floors are made slightly inclined towards it. In order to prevent an unpleasant smell from penetrating the bath, vent holes are made in the foundation. However, more often the drain has a more complex design. In this case, when pouring the foundation, if it is tape, a hole is left in it for the drainage pipe.

Trench and drain pipe

Under the pipe through which the water will drain, of course, you will need to dig a trench. Do not arrange too long drain.

It is also not necessary to dig a drainage well or install a septic tank very close to the foundation. The optimal distance from the walls of the bath to the receiver is 1-3 m. Crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the trench. The question of how to make a drain in the bath comes down, among other things, to what material and what diameter pipes should be used. Usually, plastic ones are taken for the water drainage device. A steel drain will quickly rust. The diameter of the pipe depends on how many people will bathe in the washing room at the same time. The minimum allowable is 50 mm. The trench must be dug at an angle. The steeper the pipe is inclined, the better.

well receiver

How to make a drain in the bath, we found out. Where will the used water go? As a receiver, an ordinary well is most often arranged. Its depth should be at least 1.5 meters. The diameter depends on the amount of water received. One person spends in the bath about 20 liters of water per visit. Five people will thus consume 100 liters. For such an amount of water, a well diameter of one meter is enough. Next, the receiver must be half filled with expanded clay or crushed stone. The walls are coated with clay. From above, the well is covered with boards and covered with earth. The pipe should enter it at a distance of about 60-70 cm from the upper boundary of the soil. This will prevent the sewage from freezing in winter.

Receiver-septic tank

If desired, you can arrange near the bathhouse (photo below) not a well, but a simple septic tank. It is made from an ordinary standard plastic barrel. A hole is also dug beforehand. You need to dig down to the sandy layer of soil. Usually it is located at a depth of 1-1.5 meters. Further, as in the first case, a layer of rubble is poured onto the bottom. It must be tamped down.

A hole is drilled in the side of the barrel for a pipe, which will subsequently be attached to the drain pipe. Any septic tank must be connected to the open air. To ensure air exchange, a hole is drilled in the middle of the barrel for an exhaust pipe of small diameter. If this is not done, with an increase in air pressure in the barrel during the inflow of water, it will simply be squeezed out through the drain pipe into the bath room along with an unpleasant odor.

Next, a pipe is inserted into the side hole, and an exhaust pipe is mounted in the cut out in the bottom. Then the barrel is placed upside down in the pit. Then the socket of the pipe is put on a pipe coming out of the ground, through which the water is drained from the bath. Even if the rubble at the bottom of the pit is compacted very carefully, the barrel can still sag over time. To prevent the pipe from slipping off the pipe, it is drilled to it on the sides with two self-tapping screws. After installation, the space between the walls of the barrel and the walls of the pit is covered with rubble. Next, the structure is sprinkled with earth.

Since the septic tank is outside, someone can step on it from above. Therefore, in order to prevent the bottom of the barrel from being squeezed, it should be covered with boards or a piece of thick tin before backfilling.

Drain device in the bath itself

Drainage in the floor of the bath can be arranged in several ways. In any case, the soil under the floor is concreted with a slope towards the pipe. A small receiving pit-tray is arranged around it. This is necessary so that the water leaves the bath faster. The floors are laid on the logs. The latter are placed on concrete or brick square columns erected on this concrete base. From above, the logs must be waterproofed with mastic or roofing material. Next, mount the floor boards. Sometimes they are not nailed, but simply laid with a distance of 5 mm from each other. Water flows into these cracks. From time to time, the boards are removed and dried in the open air. Such floors are called leaky.

Of course, such a floor device is not very convenient. Firstly, when walking, the boards will move, and secondly, in winter, cold air will flow from the cracks. Therefore, the floors in the bath are often made capital.

Tiled floor in the bath

Sometimes a tiled floor device can also be used. Baths are also used to relax and unwind. And since ceramics is a slippery material, and, moreover, it also heats up at high temperatures, it is usually additionally covered with wooden shields for ease of movement. From below, so that the surface of the latter is horizontal, bars of different thicknesses are stuffed. Like leaking wood floors, these boards get dried out from time to time.

Clay floor in the bath

The clay version of the coating is also a rather interesting floor device. It is quite pleasant to walk in baths with such a finish, since this material has a very low degree of thermal conductivity. In this case, instead of a concrete solution, a clay mixture is simply used. However, such floors have one significant drawback. When wet, the clay swells noticeably. After drying, it takes on its original dimensions, while cracking strongly. Subsequently, water begins to stagnate in the cracks. As a result, an unpleasant odor appears in the bath.

Water seal device

This is how the floor is made. It is pleasant to go to baths with any of these coating options only if there is a so-called water seal. Without it, cold and bad-smelling air from the receiving pipe may begin to enter the room. A water seal can be made by simply installing a special plastic cup with legs on the pipe that goes into the tray. Entering the receiver, the water will lift it and go into the drain. Air will not enter the bath from the pipe. The receiving tray should be closed with a grill. This will prevent leaves from brooms and other debris from getting into the drain.

Insulated floor in the bath

If you intend to use the bath in the winter, it is worth arranging insulated floors in it. In this case, a draft floor is first stuffed, on which expanded clay is poured or expanded polystyrene is laid. In the middle, a receiving chute is carried out. Next, a finishing floor is stuffed onto the logs of different heights. It should be with a slope of the boards from the walls to the gutter. Before backfilling expanded clay, the subfloor is covered with a vapor barrier. On top of the insulation, waterproofing is laid. The gaps between the boards of the finishing floor are sealed. Expanded clay for insulation is suitable only mixed - at least from two fractions of different sizes.

Screed insulation

Thus, we have found out how to make a drain in the bath and what the floors should be like. Now let's look at how to properly make a concrete base for coating. Before pouring it, the soil is carefully tamped, arranging a slight slope towards the receiver-tray. After that, a layer of rubble about 10-15 cm is poured on it. The foundation should be protected by laying a layer of clay around it. Then everything is poured with concrete. If desired, floor insulation can be arranged at this stage. In this case, a thin screed is poured over the rubble. A layer of expanded clay is poured on it. Next, the main concrete floor is poured. This layer must be reinforced. The easiest way is to use a regular chain-link mesh for this purpose. After pouring, the concrete surface must be leveled as carefully as possible with a board.

How to prepare a concrete solution

Of course, the concrete floor of the bath should be as reliable as possible. Therefore, the solution should be prepared strictly adhering to the established technology. Sand must be taken large and necessarily sifted. Cement for the device of a concrete bath floor is used only the highest grades. M400 is the best. Kneading is done in a ratio of 1:3. Mix the ingredients as thoroughly as possible. It is best to do this using special equipment. It is very difficult to prepare a homogeneous composition manually. The presence of non-mixed parts noticeably weakens the flooded structure.

Shower in the bath

Showers in the bath suit quite rarely. Its simplest option is an ordinary bucket suspended above the entrance to the steam room. However, you can use other, structurally simple, but somewhat more "advanced" options. After all, contrasting water procedures are actually very useful. You can, for example, install a tank on the ceiling and bring a branch pipe into the bathhouse from the ceiling. Next, a regular watering can is connected to it. Water can be pumped into the tank from a well through a hose. The shower drain in this case can be arranged according to the same principle as the main bath. Most often, the used water simply leaves the bath through a common receiver.

Bath device diagrams

A drain is not the only feature of such an unusual building as a bathhouse. It will be convenient only if the layout of the location of its premises is correct. Therefore, finally, let's consider what the bath scheme should be. There are many options for the location of the steam room, washing and changing rooms. If you wish, you can develop your own project. However, it is worth observing some basic rules:

The stove is best placed in the middle of the building, so that it is possible to heat not only the steam room and washing room, but also the locker room. Otherwise, it will be cold to dress in winter after visiting the bath. If the building is large, it is worth arranging two furnaces.
Even in a very small bath, it is desirable to equip a vestibule with an area of at least a square meter. If the front door is located too close to the street, in winter it will begin to freeze to the frame due to condensation.
If in the future it is planned to arrange gatherings with beer in the bathhouse, it is worth allocating a little space for the toilet.

Bath room dimensions

The scheme of the bath, of course, should include such information as the size of its premises. When drawing up a project, it is worth considering their minimum allowable area per person:

For the locker room - 2-4 m 2.
For washing - 2.7 m 2.
For a steam room - 2-3 m 2.

Based on these figures and knowing how many people will wash at the same time, it will not be difficult to calculate the required area of the building.

How to rationally arrange rooms

Most often, two entrances are arranged in the vestibule: one to the washing room, behind which there is a steam room, the second to the locker room. This is really the most convenient scheme. In small bathhouses, the vestibule usually also serves as a dressing room. To finally decide on what the building should be, you can view different drawings of the bath. One of them is presented to your attention on this page a little higher. And this is how saunas are built in Europe:

Thus, by properly planning, arranging a good drain, and also performing all other work with strict observance of the established technologies, you can build a comfortable and durable bathhouse in a suburban area. If there is no particular desire to build something on your own, you can order a service from a construction organization such as a turnkey bath. In this case, our recommendations will help you control the work of the hired team.

The main problem of a bath with a washing room is the removal of effluents from it. Therefore, technology options for how to drain water in a bath with wooden floors from leaking or solid flooring are relevant for each individual developer.

Let's immediately define the terms, under the wooden floors in the article we mean - wooden flooring (ladders), i.e. bathroom floor finish. The overlap under them can be either wooden (on beams) or concrete (on the ground).

The main nuances of the construction and use of the bath are:

the building is usually heated with wood-burning stoves that are not intended for connecting the contours of a warm water floor;
sewerage is necessary in the washing room, less often in the steam room;
with periodic heating, the wood on the floors heats up faster than a concrete screed or slab;
maximum heat loss is traditionally present in the floors of the lower floor, so they need to be insulated;
the budget option for a bath on the MZLF, columnar or pile grillage is the floor on the ground without overlap;
a slightly more expensive overlap along the beams, which has a smaller resource in comparison with a concrete structure.

Important! For the bath, the regulation SP 29.13330 (Floors) remains relevant, according to which the finishing coating in the washing room should be 1.5 - 2 cm lower than the lining in other rooms.

Varieties of wooden floor in the bath

The floor covering made of wood has a pleasant tactile sensation when walking on it barefoot, unlike other claddings. There are 2 categories of the wooden floor of the bath:

Depending on the design of the foundation, the overlapping of the bath floor may have a design:

On both types of floors, both solid and leaking wooden floors are made.

Organization of the drain

Despite the periodic operating mode, it is forbidden to dump drains on the ground under the bathhouse. It is necessary to collect and divert them to a separate septic tank or a centralized drainage system.

Depending on the design of the wooden floor, drains can be arranged in the following ways:

It is physically impossible to insulate a leaking floor, so the insulation is laid below a large-format funnel from the materials discussed above.

Important! The maximum heat loss in the floors is observed when there is an underground in the building, that is, in hanging grillages. Therefore, the floor and sewerage of a pile or columnar high grillage should be insulated without fail.

It is forbidden to drain bath drains directly onto the ground under this building for the following reasons:

detergents lead to gradual infection, not only of their own area, but also provide similar troubles to their neighbors;
moisture inevitably accumulates in the backfill sinuses and destroys the foundation;
even with partial replacement of the soil with crushed stone / sand, the heaving forces increase sharply due to the swelling of clay in a humid environment.

The septic tank must be placed on the site in accordance with the requirements of the SP, SanPiN standards at a distance of at least 4 m from the foundation of the bath, and not under its floor. This will improve the quality of maintenance of the water treatment chambers, infiltration well or field through which clarified water is discharged into the ground for natural post-treatment.

Leaking floor

This option ensures that the wood dries quickly and increases the life of the flooring. Depending on the design of the bath floor, the leaking floor can be constructed in different ways:

A funnel under a leaking floor that collects liquid is constructed from materials:

Advice! Leaking floor logs are treated with antiseptics or penetrating compounds to increase the service life in a humid environment.

A leaking floor is inconvenient from a hygiene point of view - large debris inevitably penetrates into the funnel (for example, broom leaves brought on the body from the steam room), so it is better to make the boards removable. A compromise is lattice pallets or fixing boards in special nests.

Another option is flexible plank ladders for the bath. The board is connected in these structures with a cord or cable; after laying on the logs, such wooden rugs retain spatial rigidity. After washing, they can be rolled up and put away to dry.

Flexible wooden ladders for a bath.

grooved board

This option is more convenient to use, but the moisture evaporates longer, the boards warp when dried. A non-leaking floor can be made on logs laid on a floor slab or floor on the ground, or wooden floor beams. Therefore, the design of the drain unit is different:

There is no constant heating in the bath, therefore, a heater under the floor is necessary solely to reduce the time it takes to enter steam mode and increase operating comfort.

The choice of the drain node

The periodic operating mode of the bath causes the water seal to dry out inside the classic bottle or U-shaped siphon. Therefore, in these outbuildings, dry ladders of several types are more often used:

When installing a dry drain, harmful gases will not be able to penetrate from the septic tank through the pipes of the external sewer into the bathhouse, relieving users of the smell of hydrogen sulfide and methane.

Attention: Natural ventilation under the wooden flooring is provided by decorative hatches (2 pieces per room are enough) and cuts in the logs. Hatches are located diagonally, decorated with bars, usually located under shelves, benches.

Thus, in wooden floors, you can equip a sewer drain on your own. For most projects of these outbuildings, there are at least two options, which allows you to choose the most economical. The best option would be a floor on the ground with a leaking floor laid on the logs.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below a detailed description of the work that needs to be done and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and firms by e-mail. You can see reviews of each of them and photos with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

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