Do-it-yourself metal tile installation. Installation of metal tiles: step-by-step instructions with useful recommendations

Choice roofing material — not an easy task. It is necessary that the roof be reliable, beautiful, durable, and even, preferably, inexpensive. All these requests are answered by a roof made of metal. It must be added to the pluses that it is not the most difficult installation, which even a person without roofing experience can handle with their own hands.

Metal roofing is beautiful, reliable, durable and inexpensive

Types of metal tiles

The metal tile is molded from sheet metal with a thickness of 0.35-0.7 mm, on which protective and decorative compositions are applied. It turns out a multi-layer cake. The basis of this building material is most often steel, but there are options from copper and aluminum. Since aluminum and copper are much more expensive than steel, products made from them have a high price. For this reason, copper or aluminum metal tiles are almost never found, but if desired, they can be delivered to order.

There are on sale both imported and domestic metal tiles. The European version comes strictly from steel 0.5 mm thick - this is spelled out in the standard. In our GOST, from 0.45 to 0.5 mm is allowed.

except different materials bases, applied different protective covering. First of all, there are two types of steel protection against oxidation - zinc and aluminum-zinc. The second option appeared not so long ago, but it is he who provides better protection, although such processing costs a little more.

There are more different compositions for finish coat, which, along with weather protection, gives the material one color or another.

Types of protective and decorative external coatings

The outer covering of the metal tile performs two functions at the same time. It protects the base metal from corrosion, and gives the material an attractive appearance. There are the following types of this coverage:

1. The most common metal roofing has a glossy polyester (PE) coating - about 70% of the total number of roofs are covered with this type of material. This is because it has an average price and good performance. Layer thickness 25-30 microns, service life 5-10 years. This coating is resistant to ultraviolet and corrosion, but is easily damaged mechanically - scratches appear even when a large number snow. Therefore, polyester metal tiles are not recommended for use in regions with heavy snowfalls. In other areas, to prevent massive snowfall, it is desirable to install a snow retention system. If you cover the roof with such material, you must be careful during installation.

   

2. Matte polyester (MPE) is obtained by adding Teflon. As a result, the film is more durable - the service life is 10-15 years, it can also be used in snowy regions. This composition is applied with a thickness of at least 35 microns. The disadvantage of tile coated with matte polyester is a smaller range of colors (about 20 shades compared to 40 glossy).

   

3. Plastisol (PVC) is a PVC-based compound. It has a beautiful structural surface, is applied in a layer of 200 microns, due to which the coating is resistant to damage. The disadvantage is low resistance to ultraviolet radiation, which significantly narrows the range of use. In addition, in some countries, due to the presence of polyvinyl chloride, this coating is prohibited.

   

4. Pural is a coating based on polyurethane with additives of polymers. Available in glossy (PUR) and matte (MatPUR) versions. Layer thickness - 50 microns, service life - up to 30 years. This is one of the best options: resistant to mechanical damage (worse than palstisol, but better than everyone else), tolerates ultraviolet and aggressive environments well, can be used for roofing on the sea coast.

   

   Pural is one of the most durable coatings

5. Polydifluoride (PVF or PVDF) is a composition based on polyvinyl fluoride with the addition of acrylic (20%). The main advantage is the high elasticity of the coating, due to which, with a small thickness (30 microns), the film is very resistant to mechanical damage. Other advantages are a wide range of colors, fade resistance, long service life - up to 30 years. The disadvantage is the highest price.

   

   The most expensive and durable coating is polydifluoride

It is clear that when building a house you do not want to spend extra money. Probably for this reason, most developers choose the cheapest option - polyester-coated metal tiles. But this is not the most the best solution. Let's guess. The service life of a metal tile with polyester is no more than 5-10 years, the average cost - with a metal thickness of 0.45 mm - about 260 rubles / m 2, with a steel thickness of 0.5 mm - 440 rubles / m 2. Even if the roofing material lasts 10 years, the price of a square for a year will be 26 rubles and 44 rubles. Now let's take a very a good option- covered with pural. With a metal thickness of 0.5 mm, the cost is from 510 rubles / m 2 to 635 rubles / m 2 (depending on the manufacturer). Service life - 30 years. For a year of service, this will be 12-17 rubles / m 2. The difference is obvious. And this is without taking into account the work to cover the roof, and this is also time and money.

Profile views

When laying a metal tile, its geometric dimensions and wave parameters are important - a crate is calculated and mounted under them. Also, the wave height determines the degree of rigidity of the sheet - at high wind loads, a material with a high wave (more than 50 mm) is needed - the most rigid, under normal conditions, a metal tile with a small wave (less than 50 mm) is suitable.

The waveform is symmetrical and asymmetrical, more rounded or with straight lines. There are quite a few different profiles. The table shows the geometric dimensions (useful width of a metal tile sheet, overlap, wave parameters), which will be useful when calculating the quantity.

Metal roofing in 70% of cases is made from the Monterrey profile. It has a rounded, slightly asymmetrical waveform. There are 7 subspecies with different parameters waves.

The next most popular profile is Cascade. About 15% of metal roofs are made of it. It is formed by straight lines, has a clear geometry. It looks very interesting on the roofs of complex shapes with big amount broken lines.

This profile is used more in regions with average wind and snow loads - the wave height is small, the loads can withstand average.

About 10% of the market is occupied by Andalusia metal tiles. More than anyone else, it looks like a classic semicircular tile. The profile is symmetrical, with pronounced drops.

The profile is designed so that the joint is located on the wall of the wave, it is practically invisible. It gives the impression of a monolithic roofing.

Sheet dimensions and wave parameters of the Andalusia metal tile

If we talk about color, then depending on the type of coating, shades are usually from 20 to 40 pieces. Choose the one that suits you more. The service life or other characteristics do not depend on the color, although there is an opinion that dark colors burn out faster. In fact, the rate of fading depends on the quality of the coating and the pigment, but not on the color.

Calculation of the amount of metal tiles

For calculation required amount sheets of material, you first need to decide on the type of profile and the manufacturer of the metal tile - the exact dimensions of the material itself will be needed, and in each profile they are different. Then it is necessary to make accurate measurements of the slopes - the length, height, if any, it is necessary to measure all the protrusions or other decorative elements that will need to be sheathed with roofing material. If the roof complex shape, it is better to draw her plan, put down all the dimensions and then sit down for the calculations.

Number of rows

It is best to look for metal tiles not in stores or markets. It is advisable to go directly to the manufacturer. It's not just the price - it may not differ very much, but the fact that many workshops / factories offer to cut sheets of the required dimensions. The minimum sheet height is 0.7 m, the maximum is 8 m. That is, you can order the required number of sheets covering the roof slope from the ridge to the overhang (including the ledge).

This option is good because the metal roof will not have horizontal joints, which means there will be less chance of a leak. The second plus is the minimum amount of waste and a smaller amount of the material itself (due to the absence of horizontal overlaps, several square meters are saved). Cons - difficulties with delivery, lifting long sheets up, inconvenient installation.

When using sheets standard sizes, the height of the roof slope is divided by the useful length of the sheet. The resulting figure is always rounded up. The useful length is obtained after the horizontal overlap is subtracted from the total length - from 100 to 200 mm. The flatter the slope, the greater the overlap of the sheets is necessary so that precipitation cannot enter the under-roof space. On roofs with a slope of up to 12°, one sheet overlaps the other by at least 200 mm, with a slope of 12° to 30°, the overlap is 150-200 mm, more than 30° - 100-150 mm. The specified amount of overlap is subtracted from the total length of the sheet, this will be the “useful length”.

An example of calculating the number of rows of metal tiles on the roof. Let the length of the slope be 4.5 m, the useful length of the sheet is 2.3 m. Divide 4.5 by 2.3, we get 1.95, round to an integer - we get 2 rows. In this case, only a small part of one sheet will go to waste, but there are times when more than half is cut off. This is very unprofitable, since you can’t use this piece anywhere else.

Number of sheets in a row

Take the length of the slope and divide by the useful width of the sheet. This setting is specified in technical specifications to metal tiles. Most often it is 110 cm (1.1 m). The resulting number is rounded up, we get the number of sheets in a row.

An example of the calculation of sheets of metal tiles in a row. Let the length of the overhang be 8 m, the useful width of the sheet is 1.1 m. When dividing, we get 7.27 pieces, but we round up to a larger integer and get 8 pieces in one row. Moreover, more than 2/3 of one sheet will go to waste.

Features of hip roofs

At hip roofs slopes have a triangular or trapezoidal shape. Here it is necessary to select the length of the sheet - to minimize the amount of waste.

The height is chosen so that no more than half goes to waste. It is quite difficult to do this manually, and still there is a solid error - there will be 20-25% more waste than when calculating using programs. They are usually available from vendors and manufacturers. It is better to provide them with an accurate calculation, and at home to pre-measure the parameters of the roof (or call a measurer), and then try to choose the dimensions yourself. Then it will be possible to compare the amount of material needed, calculated by you and proposed.

Determination of the number of additional elements

Roofing from metal tiles requires a large number of different additional elements(dobors), which make out the ridge, the edge of the overhang, the sides of the slope, the passage of the pipe, the valley (the junction of two adjacent roof slopes). With a simple gable roof, ridge elements and plugs, cornice and gable strips will be needed. That's all.

What are the additional elements for a roof made of metal and why are they needed

In spite of big variety dobor, they are all considered the same. Take the length of the surface on which you want to mount and divide by the useful length of the element. It is usually standard and is 1.9 m (total length 2 m). The result is rounded up.

What and how to mount

The metal tile is fixed with special self-tapping screws with rubber washers. As well as the main material, they are made of galvanized steel, and on top they are painted in a tone with its coating. During installation, the self-tapping screw must be screwed in strictly perpendicular to the roof surface, its inclination is not allowed.

When fixing a metal tile, it is also necessary to monitor how tightly the fasteners adhere to the surface. You can’t tighten it too much, bending the metal, but you can’t allow a loose fit either - the connection will not be airtight.

Lathing under the metal tile

A metal tile is a rather rigid material, therefore a sparse crate is made under it, which consists of planks that are located along the roof overhang.

What material

If a metal roof has simple design, an inch edged board (24-25 mm thick) 100 mm wide goes to the crate. On a roof of complex shape or in regions with large snow loads, it is better to use a board of 32 mm thickness or a beam of 50-50 mm. The beam is also used with a large distance between the rafters (more than 80 cm).

Lathing step

Installation of a metal tile on a roof has one important feature. There is the strongest place in the profile - under the step of the wave in the hollow. This is where you need to screw the screw. The crate must be made so that the middle of the bar is just under this place. This is precisely what causes difficulties: profiles have different sizes, therefore, each of them requires its own installation step for the lathing slats. This value can be determined by measuring the already existing material, but, usually, this parameter is indicated in the instructions for the metal tile.

There are some important points lathing devices for metal tiles. Please note that the first plank along the overhang is thicker than all the others - the step height for this profile is added to the selected plank thickness. In addition, this plank is made wider than all the others - a dropper will be attached to it, which closes the cut, protecting the wood from precipitation.

Also note that the second bar is not stuffed with a standard, but with a shortened step, otherwise you will not get further into the wave. The step is also different when installing the last bar near the ridge - it is obtained in fact, as well as the height of the bar. We remind you that there should be sufficiently large gaps in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ridge - and the crate and roofing material should not be joined. This is necessary for proper ventilation of the attic.

Installation procedure and features

Before you cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for working with the material:

• First of all, you need to take care of proper storage- in ventilated stacks, shifted with bars.
• When cutting, do not use an angle grinder (grinder), but cut only with a jigsaw or scissors for metal. The grinder overheats the metal, due to which the zinc evaporates, in the places of the cut the material will begin to rust.
• Start laying the sheets from the lower right corner (the installation diagram of the metal tiles is in the photo below).
• When mounting, wear soft, well-fitting shoes, step only in the lower part of the wave.

Next, we will talk about the device. Metal roofing comes in two versions: with a cold or insulated attic. Depending on the type chosen, the order of work changes - when arranging a warm attic, two more layers are added - a heater and a vapor barrier membrane from the side of the room.

Cold metal roofing

This type of roof is suitable if attic space planned to be non-residential. Then all the insulation is concentrated in the ceiling, and the function of the roof is only to protect from rain and wind. The order of work is as follows:

Warm roof

When constructing an insulated roof made of metal tiles, an additional thermal insulation material, which is attached between the rafters, and a vapor barrier film that is stuffed onto the rafters from the side of the attic. Further, the entire installation process is similar.

How to attach sheets

When we cover the roof with a metal tile, we must correctly position the screws. There are several rules to follow:

• Self-tapping screws are installed in the lower part of the wave, 2 cm below the step.
• The bottom row, along the overhang, is attached to each wave. Fasteners are also installed in places of horizontal and vertical joints.
• The waves between the horizontal joints are fastened through one in a checkerboard pattern.

These rules are clearly shown in the diagram. In a graphic image, some things are easier to understand.

Metal roofing is becoming more and more popular every day. This is an excellent roofing material with an optimal ratio of performance and cost. The metal tile is suitable for finishing roofs of almost any complexity. At the same time, you can cope with the tasks of installing the material with your own hands.

The metal tile is made in the form of galvanized sheet material made on the basis of steel. The composition of the sheet includes several layers that perform important protective or decorative functions.

1. zinc layer. It is the basis for applying the following layers. Additionally prevents the development of corrosion.
2. passivation layer. Prevents the accumulation of static electricity.
3. Priming layer. Provides the highest quality adhesion of the previous and next layers of the metal tile sheet.
4. polymer layer. Protects the material from adverse external influences and gives it the required appearance. The finish can be matte or glossy. Many color variations are available, which allows you to choose a roofing material that fully satisfies the needs of the owner.

The metal tile has many advantages over other popular roofing materials, namely:

• light weight. On the modern market Many excellent roofing materials are available, but many of them are limited because of their heavy weight. modern houses are increasingly being built from the "lungs" building materials And they don't need any extra work. The metal tile, on the other hand, weighs a little, so it can be safely used even for roofing the roofs of houses built on weak foundations;
• many color variations. It is hardly possible to find another roofing material presented in such a variety. color solutions like a metal tile;

  

• good specifications. The metal tile is steady against atmospheric and other adverse influences. Installation of sheets can be performed at any time of the year;

  

• relatively affordable cost. Metal tile significantly outperforms other coatings with similar parameters in price. natural tile it costs much more, although its properties practically do not differ from the characteristics of modern high-quality steel sheets.

The metal tile looks great on the roofs of almost any buildings. It is best suited for large and respectable houses and cottages, however, if desired, you can develop great project roofs even for a small country house.

Video - Do-it-yourself metal tile installation instruction

Before starting the arrangement of the crate and fastening the sheets of metal tiles directly, it is necessary to think about reliable and high-quality waterproofing. Thanks to the moisture-proof material, the possibility of condensation on the internal surfaces elements of the roofing system, which will contribute to a significant increase in their service life.

The most popular waterproofing option is polyethylene film. This affordable material perfectly copes with all the tasks assigned to it.

Waterproofing should be laid on the rafters under the counter beam. Individual pieces of film are laid with an overlap of about 15-17 cm. The sag of the film between the rafters can be no more than 1.5-2 cm. To fix the film, use galvanized nails or a construction stapler with metal staples. Glue the waterproofing joints with adhesive tape. It is desirable that it be metallized.

The technology of metal tile roofing requires the mandatory installation of insulation. The most convenient to use plates mineral wool. The material is placed between rafter legs. For fixing the plates, the construction stapler already familiar to you is perfect.

Lathing device

The metal tile will be laid on top of a supporting structure known as a batten. The frame of the system is assembled from wooden planks about 100 mm wide and 25-30 mm thick. Everything wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic. Otherwise, the wood will rot in a fairly short time.

The crate is attached in the interval between laying the waterproofing and installing the insulation. The task is reduced to attaching wooden boards or bars to the rafters. Start fastening from the ridge of the roof structure, gradually moving vertically down to the eaves. Fix the elements of the crate in a horizontal position. Use nails of the correct length. As a rule, boards are mounted in a continuous sheet.

Laying roofing material

Laying of metal tiles should begin from the bottom corner of the roof slope. It is best to start from the bottom left corner. In this case, each next sheet will overlap the previous one. If you start the installation of the coating from the right corner, the next sheet of metal tiles will have to be placed under the already laid material. It is undesirable to do so, because with such installation, there is a high probability of damage to the roofing.

Laying of metal tiles should be carried out parallel to the eaves. Do not forget to leave an overhang behind the eaves of about 4 cm. There is a technology according to which sheets of metal tiles can be laid vertically. But in the absence of proper experience in roofing, it is better to refuse this method, opting for a more traditional and simple horizontal installation.

When laying, you will need to rotate the corners slightly clockwise. This is done so that the right corners of the elements laid in the same row are located along a single straight line.

To fix adjacent sheets, 1 self-tapping screw is used. Such a preliminary fastening is placed at the top of the sheet. After that, you need to align the elements of the system and perform their final fixation.

Lay the longest sheets of metal tiles in the bottom row. With this option, installation is greatly facilitated, and the finished coating takes on a more solid and attractive appearance.

Approximately 7-8 self-tapping screws are used per 1 m2 of coating. You need to fasten the sheets in transverse waves, screwing in self-tapping screws in increments of 35 cm. You can also install self-tapping screws in longitudinal waves. With this method, it is necessary to fasten through the wave, placing self-tapping screws in the upper ridges.

An electric screwdriver is best suited for tightening self-tapping screws. An electric drill will work too. The main thing is that it has the function of slow and smooth rotation of the cartridge. To achieve greater fastening accuracy, it is recommended to punch the hole in advance.

Cover sheets must be fixed in the lower crest of the wave, where the material is pressed against the crate. This will create the most reliable fastening and not deform the material.

The bottom sheets of the metal tile must be fastened to the first purlin in each wave, without gaps. This section will be subjected to the most powerful wind loads, so the fastening must be as reliable as possible so that the sheets are not torn off at the first strong gust of wind.

Attach to other purlins on minimum distance down to the step. In this place sheet material has the highest rigidity. In addition, with this arrangement, the screws will be almost invisible.

In places of overlap, sheets of metal tiles must be fixed through a wave. If you wish, you can fix each wave. This will ensure the highest quality fit of the upper sheet elements.

For fixing roofing material, galvanized self-tapping screws made of alloy steel are best suited. Stainless steel self-tapping screws with a sealant also proved to be excellent. Such fasteners can have a wide variety of colors, which will create the optimal color combination self-tapping screws and the main coating.

Self-tapping screws are screwed strictly perpendicular to the elements of the crate. Deviations are not allowed. Sheets of metal tiles should be attracted to the crate as tightly as possible. Any distortion of self-tapping screws can lead to the appearance of through holes in the sheets. If the roof will be exposed to prolonged exposure to an acidic or alkaline environment, self-tapping screws with plastic caps should be used to fix the metal tile.

3-4 months after the completion of the roofing work, check the self-tapping screws. Under the influence of wind loads, fasteners usually weaken. Tighten loose screws.

Thus, there is nothing complicated in self-assembly of metal tiles. Follow the instructions, stick to the recommendations received and everything will work out.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself metal tile installation instruction

Having chosen a metal tile to cover the roof, the developer assumes that the coating will be reliable and will last for a long time. You can count on such a result only if the installation technology is exactly observed. If it is planned to lay such material as metal tiles, the installation instructions should be studied, regardless of whether the owner plans to carry out roofing independently or will hire workers. In any case, knowledge of the technology and the nuances of working with the material will allow you to control the installation process.

Metal tile is a practical and beautiful material for roofing. Thanks to the wide range of profile shapes and colors, you can choose the most suitable option for any building.

The coating of metal tiles is quite durable, however, errors in operation can significantly reduce its service life. Therefore, even before starting work, you need to study how to install a roof made of metal tiles - the instruction will help you understand all the subtleties and nuances of the workflow.

Getting ready for work

Before proceeding with the practical implementation of work, you need to prepare well: study text instructions, watch video materials. In addition, you need to buy everything necessary materials and prepare tools so that during the installation process it is not necessary to stop the process due to a lack of self-tapping screws or the lack of the necessary tool.

Cooking Tools

In the process of work, the masters will need:

• Regular hammer of medium size;
• A screwdriver with a special nozzle that allows you to tighten self-tapping screws for metal tiles;

Advice! To work on the roof, it is much more convenient to work with battery-powered power tools so that you do not have to pull extension cords onto the roof and then get tangled in wires.

Advice! Cutting metal tiles is not easy, so it is better to choose a tool with an electric drive. For example, a jigsaw, cutting electric shears for metal, a reciprocating electric saw. But you can also use hand saw with teeth from Pobedit or hand shears for metal. But the grinder is forbidden to use for working with metal tiles.

Cooking material

For quality work, you will need:

• Naturally metal tile. Its quantity is determined by the area to be covered.

Advice! It must be remembered that the metal tile is a material oriented to the sides, that is, the sheets have a top and a bottom and it is impossible to turn them over, as it is convenient for the developer. Because of this circumstance, when laying material on complex-shaped roofs, material consumption increases greatly due to the large amount of waste.

Installation work - instructions

The whole process of building a roof can be divided into several stages:

• Preparation of the "roofing cake";
• Construction of flooring for laying metal tiles;
• material laying;
• Installation of protective and functional elements of the roof.

Preparing the roofing cake

If it is planned to install a metal-tiled roof, then during construction truss system elements are arranged in increments of 55 to 90 cm.

Advice! If an insulated roof is being built, then the pitch of the rafters, as a rule, is selected depending on the width of the insulation material plates, since these plates are inserted between the beams of the truss system.

Advice! Although single-row laying involves fewer joints and, consequently, greater reliability, on long slopes it is better to plan double-row laying. The fact is that working with long sheets is much more difficult.

Construction of the crate

Sheet stacking

Having completed the construction of the flooring, you can begin the installation of metal tiles - the instruction gives a complete picture of working with the material.

Advice! If it is necessary to cut the sheets, the place of the cut must be immediately painted over with a special polymeric anti-corrosion paint, matched to the color of the metal tile. The same paint is used if the protective polymer coating is accidentally damaged during installation.

Sheets are fastened with the help of special hardware - self-tapping screws. They have a hexagonal head with a coating that matches the color of the metal tile. The self-tapping screw is installed complete with an elastic washer, which ensures the tightness of the connection.

Advice! To perform roofing work, involving movement on an already laid metal tile, special shoes are used - without heels and with soft soles. Moreover, it is allowed to step on the coating only in the deflection of the wave and in those places of the roof where the elements of the crate are located.

The laying of the metal tile begins from the bottom corner of the slope. Lay the material with an overlap of one wave width. First, it is recommended to assemble a block of 3-4 sheets of metal tiles, fastening them together. And only then, having aligned this block, attach it to the metal tile.

Installation of additional roof elements

Having finished laying the main coating, proceed to the last stage of installation - the installation of additional elements:

So, the installation of a roof covering using metal tiles is a process that cannot be classified as overly complicated. However, when carrying out work, it is very important to take into account the specific features of the metal tile and strictly observe the accepted technology for laying this material on the roof.

One of milestones building a house - roofing and roofing (roofing). One of the most popular roofing materials is metal roofing. And it is not surprising, because among its advantages one can single out low weight, ease of installation, large color gamut, strength.

Of course, there are also disadvantages - this is low rigidity, which makes it problematic to move along the roof, and a significant waste of material when laying on slopes with complex geometry, poor sound insulation, and heating. All of them can be eliminated, for example, the susceptibility of metal to corrosion can be reduced if the installation of metal tiles is correctly performed.

Metal roofing device

The manufacturer has already taken care of the protection of the metal tile by creating a multi-layer structure of the roofing (see picture).

As you can see, the presence of several layers of protective coating allows us to assert that the tile is made of high-quality material. Therefore, in order for the roof under such a coating to serve for a long time, it is necessary to adhere to the technology of installing metal tiles.

Basics of choice - metal tile parameters:

• The thickness of the metal tile. Metal tiles are made from sheet steel. The thickness of the metal tile sheet is 0.5-0.7 mm, this is noted in SNiP II-26-76 "Roofs".

Advice. The thickness of the metal within one sheet may vary. Allowable change +/- 5%.

Please note that low-quality metal bends with strong pressure.

• The thickness of the zinc layer of the metal tile. This parameter cannot be visually tracked. Therefore, read the passport for the coil of metal from which the sheets are rolled. According to the standard, the thickness of the protective coating should be 275 gr./sq.m. If this requirement is not met, it may lead to the result shown in the photo.

• The thickness of the metal tile coating depends on the type (kind) of the coating.

• Leaf geometry. Here it is important to pay attention to the fact that the sheets are not only cut evenly, but also do not have bends along the covering side.

The tight fit of the edges is shown in the photo.

With poor geometry, the result will be noticeable visually. IN best case the junction will be ugly. At worst, water will flow under the sheet. And do not even hope to tighten such an edge with self-tapping screws.

• Metal tile color. Plays a big role in the case of gradual development. That is, when you need to select a shade. In principle, there are two color coding systems, and knowing your color, you can choose the appropriate one.

Types of metal tile coatings

• PE (polyester) is applied with a thickness of 20-25 microns. Its disadvantage is fast, but uniform burnout. And also that the snow does not linger on the smooth surface of the sheet.

• PEMA (matte polyester). Its layer is 35 µm. It is more resistant to fading and mechanical damage. The rough surface prevents the snow from sliding down quickly. In principle, matte finishes virtually eliminate the need for snow guards.

• PU (pural) and PUMA (Pural matt - matte pural). Coating thickness 50 µm. Such a coating can be used in regions with an aggressive environment.

• PVC (Plastizol). In a metal tile with such a coating, the most protected core of the metal, since the layer is from 100 to 200 microns.

Nuance. The tone will be different. The rate of color fading depends on the coating of the metal.

Calculation of metal tiles on the roof

Let's illustrate an example of calculating a metal tile for a gable roof with a slope size of 8 by 5.

The calculation of the number of sheets of metal tiles required to cover the slope of a rectangular shape is calculated as follows - the length of the slope along the ridge divided by the width of the sheet.

Nuance. When calculating, rely on the working width. That is, taking into account overlaps. Sheet dimensions for Monterey metal tiles are shown in the photo.

For example, the length of the slope is 8 m.p. Then you need 7.27 sheets to work. Round up to the nearest integer - 8 sheets. For two slopes - 15 sheets. Since one sheet is divided in half and used on the second slope.

Nuance. In this case, you will need to start work from half a sheet.

For the convenience of calculating more complex slope configurations, you can use the constructor (calculator).

You can make drawings of roof slopes and draw a scheme for laying metal tiles, i.e. sheet arrangement.

Nuance. The more complex the ramp configuration, the more material will be wasted.

The length of one sheet of metal tiles is determined by the height of the slope plus the cornice overhang (about 5 cm). It should be noted that the longer the sheet, the less material will go to the crossroads. But, it is difficult to work with a long sheet, and transportation metal sheets large size is costly. Therefore, a sheet longer than 6 rpm is advised to be broken into parts. To do this correctly, you need to adjust the resulting length by the amount of overlap. The overlap must be at least 0.15 m for slopes with an inclination angle of more than 25 ° and 0.2 m for smaller angles. For our example. 5 m.p. divide in half - we need 1 sheet 2.5 m long, and the second 2.65.

At the same time, the manufacturing technology of metal tiles is such that there are unfeasible dimensions. Each manufacturer has their own and depends on the equipment used.

Then for the entire roof you need to buy 15 sheets of 2.5 m each and 15 sheets of 2.65 m each.

Calculation of the number of additional elements for metal tiles.

The components include - a ridge bar, end and eaves straps, a snow retainer, internal and external valleys.

It is easy to calculate the additional elements - the total length of the surface to be closed is divided by 1.9 m.p. - (2 r.m. standard bar length, minus an overlap of 0.1 m). For the lower valley divided by 1.7. The overlap is 0.3 m.

For our gable roof, 5 ridge strips are needed (the length of the slope along the ridge is 8 mp); 9 cornice strips ((8 + 8) / 1.9); 11 end. Due to the construction of the roof, we do not need a valley.

Special planks. These are made-to-order, according to your size additional elements.

Self-tapping screws. Their consumption is 7-8 pcs. per sq.m. metal tiles and 3 pcs. by 1 r.m. additional element. Self-tapping screws should be with a drill, this will simplify installation, and preferably painted in the color of the sheet. This will give the finish a more finished look.

We need 768 pcs. on sheets and 3x(5+9+11) = 834 pcs. They are usually sold in packs of 250. Naturally, it is better to take with a margin.

Sealing tape for metal tiles. It is recommended to install it under the ridge bar.

Film - equal to the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slopes minus the overlap tolerances. For example, a roll of film typically measures 1.5 by 50 rpm. = 75 sq.m. The working area of ​​the film is about 65 sq.m.

Insulation under the metal tile is also equal to the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slopes.

From the tool it is useful: a screwdriver, a hammer, a mallet, a tape measure, a marker, a level, a jigsaw or a hacksaw.

Advice. Cutting a sheet of metal with a grinder is strictly prohibited. From heating, the coating is destroyed at the cut point, and the sheet will begin to rust. Also, sparks can damage the paint all over the sheet.

How to store metal tiles

If you purchased the material before you built the truss system, you need to know how to properly store metal tiles (especially in winter). Sheets must be laid on a flat area, preferably on a pallet. In addition, it is important to protect the metal from moisture, ultraviolet radiation and provide ventilation. If the sheets will be stored for more than a month, they must be laid as shown in the photo.

Additional slats are also stored in a supine position.

1. The device of the truss system under the metal tile

Installation of a metal tile begins at a stage of the device of an obreshetka. It is important to initially fix the boards of the crate at the right distance. Namely, the distance between the first and second board is 300 mm, then 350 mm, 350 mm is the distance from one bend of the sheet to the next. In professional language, the distance is called a tile.

Advice. At the exit of the chimney, in the valley, near the windows, you need to make a continuous crate.

2. Checking the dimensions of the ramp

The main thing is that the roof slopes are even and flat.

3. Fixing the eaves strip for metal tiles

The cornice board directs the water flowing down from the roof into the drainage system.

Nuance. On the cornice board, you need to install long brackets for the gutters of the drainage system. Short ones can be mounted after completion of roofing work.

4. Laying the film of the hydrobarrier under the metal tile

In order to prevent the attic from getting wet in the event of a sudden rain, and also to further protect the insulation from getting wet, a hydrobarrier film is used.

The waterproofing film under the metal tile is laid on the truss system in accordance with the description, which contains the installation instructions. To avoid leakage, it is necessary to ensure that the film overlaps at least 10 cm. For sloping slopes, at least 25 cm. For hip roofs up to 50 cm (in the roof ridges). The film is fastened with a construction stapler.

Advice. The film is spread parallel to the end if the roof slope is more than 25 °. And parallel to the skate, if less. In this case, it is necessary to withstand a sag of 1-2 cm along the edge of the rafter leg.

In places where the chimney exits, antennas, etc. you need to bring the film 4-5 cm to these elements.

5. Mounting the counter-lattice under the metal tile

The counter-lattice is needed to provide a ventilation gap between the film and the metal tile sheet. Otherwise, at the junction of the film to the metal, it will quickly lose its properties.

For mounting, a rail with a cross section of 30 mm and a length of 135 cm is used.

Nuance. When using a superdiffusion membrane with a high transmittance, a counter grate is not needed.

6. Installation of the lower valley

A metal tile valley is installed if the roof configuration requires it.

Nuance. It is better to install the lower valley not on self-tapping screws, but on a kleimer. So it will maintain integrity, which will reduce the likelihood of leakage. Kleimer can be made independently from scrap metal.

7. Installation of the first sheet of metal tiles

To avoid deformation, the sheet is lifted to the roof using skids (see photo).

Nuance. It is better not to mount sheets in strong winds. Loose sheets may bend.

Installation is carried out from right to left, so that each subsequent sheet covers the groove for water drainage on the previous one.

The bottom row of sheets must be mounted so that the sheet hangs over the edge of the rafter system by 50 mm. (that is why the distance between the first and second board of the crate should be 300 mm, not 350). This is necessary to ensure ventilation and ease of water flow.

Methods for mounting metal tiles are shown in the diagram

The technology of laying metal tiles provides for the alignment of the first sheet along the end of the slope and the cornice. If everything is correct, the sheet is attached from above with a single self-tapping screw. The second sheet is installed with the same requirements and fastened with the first sheet. After all the rows are aligned along the cornice overhang, the sheets are firmly attached to the crate.

Adviсe:

• During the work on the roof you need to move. Therefore, it is better to put on shoes with soft soles and step only into the bottom of the wave.

• If during the installation process you need to cut the sheet, it is better to paint over the cut special paint.

• After mounting the sheet, you need to remove it from it. protective film(if any). Under the influence of ultraviolet light, it will crumble, and will have an ugly appearance. In addition, it will be much more difficult to remove it.

8. Fastening of metal tiles

Fasteners of metal tiles are carried out with special self-tapping screws. The presence of a sealing gum allows you to tighten the self-tapping screw as much as possible, while not deforming the sheet itself.

The scheme of fastening metal tiles with self-tapping screws - through one wave.

Nuance. Along the length of the end, a self-tapping screw is attached to each tile.

Many advise mounting the self-tapping screw down the wave. It is not right. Because along the gutter of the tiles water is coming, which means that the slightest violation during installation is fraught with the appearance of rust.

The photo below shows that the self-tapping screw needs to be slightly mixed to the right.

It is also important to properly tighten the screw. Mounting rules are shown in the figure.

9. Installation of additional elements

9.1 Installation of the metal roofing valley. Depending on the design of the roof, an upper valley is installed. When fastening it, they try to tighten the screws so that they do not fall on the lower screws. If clamps were used, this requirement is omitted.

9.2 Installation of a wind strip on a metal tile. Regardless of the configuration of the roof, an end (wind) bar must be installed. The overlap of the planks is 10-15 cm. They are fastened with long self-tapping screws. Based on 1 self-tapping screw per 1 r.m. planks. The wind bar is laid on top of the tile sheet and fixed with self-tapping screws on both sides.

9.3 Mounting of the ridge batten of a metal tile depends on its configuration. When installing a round ridge bar, it is required to close the ends with special plugs.

The broken bar fits more tightly to the sheets, so a plug is not needed.

It is possible to protect the ridge for metal tiles from snow and moisture by laying a special ridge sealing tape (ridge seal).

9.4 Next, we mount aprons (adjacency strips) for metal tiles near the pipes or the slope adjoining strip to the wall. To do this, the wall needs to be pierced by 1-1.5 cm. Insert a bar into the resulting strip, and treat the installation site with sealant. It should be noted that the sealant will break down. Therefore, the junction needs to be inspected and sealed in a new way from time to time.

Nuance. It is forbidden to insert the junction bar into the masonry joint; this may violate the integrity of the wall. And then the manufacture of a reliable structure in the junction node will turn into sabotage.

9.5 Installation of snow guards on metal tiles. Lastly, we install snow retainer strips on a sheet of metal. They are simply necessary if the metal tile is covered with polyester.

Snow guards for a roof made of metal tiles may look like the one shown in the photo.

Often snow retainers are reinforced with an additional bar.

Its cost is low, and the strength of the snow holder increases significantly.

The choice of plank depends on the preferences of the owner, as well as on the intensity of snowfall and the angle of inclination of the roof slope.

How to install snow guards on metal roofing?

The snow retainer bar is located parallel to the cornice in one row or two rows, in a checkerboard pattern.

final roofing cake shown in the photo

10. Roof insulation, installation of a vapor barrier film and interior decoration

Installation of metal tiles - video instruction

Mistakes in the installation of metal tiles

In conclusion, I would like to briefly recall the most common mistakes in installing metal tiles:

• an unaligned slope will cause the sheet to be bumpy;

• incorrectly cut sheets can quickly rust. Therefore, do not use a grinder in your work;

• incorrectly screwed self-tapping screws lead to deformation of the sheet;

• you need to use only high-quality self-tapping screws with a special rubber seal;

• saving on high-quality seals leads to the fact that snow is blown into the roofing pie or moisture gets into it;

• it is better to inspect the sheet several times for scratches and paint it over with special paint in time, rather than admire rusty streaks later;

• use special (made to order) additional elements if the standard ones do not completely cover the openings. Their manufacture will cost you less than the subsequent replacement of the whole assembly or roofing materials;

• do not buy long sheets of metal tiles. The metal has a high coefficient of linear expansion. This means that the sheet will play and, over time, the screws in it will loosen. Therefore, cut the sheet into several parts;

• on the other hand, the more joints, the greater the likelihood of leakage. Therefore, stick to the golden mean;

• keep the correct overlaps.

Conclusion

As you can see, the installation of metal tiles can be done independently. sticking to certain rules, the laying of metal tiles on the roof will be successful and in a short time.

Like any business in construction, the technology of installing metal tiles requires a certain professionalism from workers. A roof made of metal tiles should serve for more than a dozen years, so it is necessary to responsibly approach its installation.

This article details the types preparatory work, installation of a roof from a metal tile, repair and dismantling works.

The roof is one of the most important parts of the structure of the entire building. During operation, a roof made of metal tiles will last for decades, does not require special care and investment. But important condition long service life of the roof is high-quality professional installation and compliance with operating conditions.

Useful advice. You should not trust the installation of metal tiles to unskilled workers or handymen, because. Compared to other roofs, the installation of metal tiles has many nuances during installation.

Preparatory work before the installation of metal tiles

Ventilation

To check whether the installation technology is observed, the metal tile must comply not only with quality standards. Particular attention should be paid to the preparatory work.

With temperature fluctuations on the metal tile and other parts of the roof, condensate forms from the metal tile, which is the main enemy of any roof structure. Moisture is also a cause of corrosion. To prevent moisture from accumulating, good air exchange must be ensured - air circulation.

Due to the filing of the eaves, free access of air around the perimeter of the structure should be ensured; for this, a perforated soffit is used.

Perforated soffit are special panels designed for hemming surfaces that face down (parallel to the ground). For example, frontal surfaces and cornice overhangs.

The usual direction of air movement is from the eaves to the ridge. The roof is heated by the heat of the house and the sun's rays, so air must escape from under the ridge.

Attention! If the length of the roof slope is more than 7 or 10 meters, the installation of ventilation outlets is mandatory.

Rain and melt water is also a source of moisture. Attention should be paid to the direction of snow fall, which must be strictly vertical.

thermal insulation

The main sign of insufficient or poor-quality thermal insulation is the presence of condensation on thermal insulation or internal walls.

In order to perform high-quality work on thermal insulation, the following conditions must be met:

• Insulation plates should be installed as close as possible to each other, to the attic ceiling or walls.
• Insulation thickness for temperate climates middle lane must be at least 1.5 cm;
• The installed insulation must be dry;
• Do not install insulation during rain and snow;
• If the terms of work are long (do not fit in one day) - first it is better to mount the waterproofing film.

Installation features and common mistakes

In order not to have to correct mistakes after the installation of the roof, it is advisable to correctly resolve all issues in advance and carefully prepare for the upcoming installation.

Features of the installation of metal tiles are as follows:

• inconsistency of the drawings of the real roof of the building leads to incorrect calculations: lack of or leftover materials;
• disregard for the manufacturer's recommendations can lead to the impossibility of installing the roof or significant alterations in work;
• do not use shingles with powder coating. Due to its porous structure, moisture quickly and easily penetrates into the structure.
• it is not advisable to use sheets more than 3.5 meters in length. The metal will expand and contract during operation. The large length of the sheets can contribute to the deflection of the profile and loosening of the holes in the places where the screws are attached - the result of all is a violation of the tightness of the roof.
• clearly follow the layout of the sheets according to the drawing;
• do not use polyurethane foam to seal the roof;
• the roof must necessarily "breathe", excessive blockage of each slot can lead to the formation of condensate.

Installation instructions for metal tiles

Basic moments

Before starting the installation work, it is necessary to decide what type of metal tile we are dealing with. By the type of capillary groove, the following types of metal tile are distinguished: Elite, Monterrey and Cascade. Metal tiles of the Elite and Monterrey type have a rounded capillary groove, the Cascade is more straight.

All these types of metal tiles can be found at the manufacturer RUUKKI (Rukki), which has taken a strong place in the modern construction market.

Installation of a metal tile of a handle as well as installation of a metal tile of other producers represents consecutive performance of the certain stages of works.

Installation of sheets of metal

The procedure for starting installation work for different types roofs:

• For a gable roof, work starts from the end;
• For a hipped roof - on both sides of the highest point of the slope.

Attention!

The sequence of mounting sheets does not depend on the location of the roof ribs: work can be started both from the right and from the left end.

If the installation of the metal tile is started from the left edge, then the next profile sheet must be laid under the last wave of the sheet in front.

Attention!

The capillary groove of each profile sheet must be covered by the next sheet.

Depending on the type of sheet, the connection is made:

• on the wave of the left edge for Elites and Monterrey,
• on the very left edge for Cascade.

The edge of the sheet is attached to the eaves with an overlap of 10 mm.

First, 3-4 profile sheets should be fixed on the ridge with one screw.

Action plan:

1. Lay the first sheet and attach it with one screw at the ridge;
2. Lay the second sheet in such a way that the bottom edges form a solid and even line.
3. At the top of the wave, fasten the sheets with an overlap with one screw.

Thus, fasten 3-4 sheets together and align the resulting lower edge along the eaves. Only then can the sheets be finally fixed to the crate.

Fastening sheets to the crate

Elite and Cascade profile sheets are always fastened with screws. The Monterrey type can also be fastened with nails (but it is still recommended with screws).

In work it is convenient to use an electric drill with a socket for screws. It is advisable to use self-tapping screws with a sealing washer RA 4.8X28. Self-tapping screws are screwed perpendicular to the sheets into the bend of the profile wave under the transverse wave.

Approximately one square meter profile requires 6 self-tapping screws, taking into account that the sheet will be fixed along the edge only in every second wave.

Mounting profile sheet type Monterrey and Elite

When fastening this profile sheet, no seals are required, because each subsequent sheet covers the previous one well enough.

The sheets are fastened with PA 4.9 X 27 screws in the places of overlap along the top of the wave under each transverse pattern. Screw consumption per 1 sq.m. about 6 pcs.

Fastening of profile sheet type Cascade

In a profile sheet of the Cascade type, the overlap occurs along the deflection of the wave. Therefore, the sheet is attached in the deflection of the wave under the transverse pattern.

Screw consumption per 1 sq.m. about 6 pcs. Fastening is carried out in a “zigzag” pattern along a single pattern of a tile sheet. It is necessary to ensure that the sheet is fixed exactly in its place.

Fixing the overlap along the length

Places of overlapping sheets are vulnerable places of the entire roof. The overlap of sheets must be at least 250 mm. Sheets must be installed according to the transverse pattern and fastened as indicated above. In places of overlap, fastening is carried out in every second wave under the transverse pattern.

Attention!

Sheets of metal tiles can not be cut with a grinder.

Since hot chips easily stick into the coating, and in these places the metal will rust over time.

• you need to walk “on toes” and in shoes with soft soles;
• you can not step on the crest of the wave;
• it is necessary to put the leg parallel to the slope;
• you can not put both feet in one bend of the sheet.

Installation of internal joints

There are three ways to perform internal roof joints.

Method 1

On the roofs of the form latin letter L internal joint can be made from a smooth sheet.

Work order:

• According to the height of the crate under the metal tile, a wooden structure with waterproofing is being erected;
• On the wooden structure a smooth sheet is installed;
• With the help of a special seal, the gap between the roof sheet and the internal joint is sealed.

Method 2

To perform internal joints, standard groove strips are also produced. It is better to seal the seam with a sealing mass, and the width of the overlap of the planks for the groove should be at least 150 mm.

Method 3

At the inner joint, you can mount the valley lining, which is fixed with screws (300-500 mm apart) along the top of the profile wave, without the use of seals.

Mounting the roof ridge

Roof ridge decoration is one of the final stages roof roofs. The ridge can only be “closed” if all the roofing sheets have already been laid and fixed, and the sealing tape under the ridge strips has already been nailed. First you need to make sure that the sealing tape and all the first screws holding the sheet are covered with the ridge strip.

The ridge strips must be fixed with screws on every second wave of the profile. And the ends to the ridge are fixed with rivets or screws.

Mounting the Y-shaped roof ridge on hipped roofs

A feature of roofs of this form is that the pediment planks bifurcate from the ridge with a “Y”-shaped plank. And the same bar closes the resulting corner. Fastening is carried out with screws. The end of the bar must be installed inside the ridge and secured from above with screws.

Proper execution of the roof ridge of the "Y" shape

End plate installation

The end plate is fastened with screws to a wooden base. If the base is made with high quality and according to the instructions, then the end plate completely closes the end over the profile wave. To overlap the planks at the end, 100 mm is enough.

Features of installation of composite metal tiles

Separately, it should be noted that the installation of composite metal tiles has several distinctive features.

Thanks to special locks, the joint composite metal roofing carried out not from the top of the sheet - overlap, but to the end. This method fastening virtually eliminates the possibility of leaks.

The sheets are fastened to the crate with anodized ruffed nails.

Advantages of composite tiles:

• Roof installation is allowed even in winter at temperatures from -10°C.
• The roof creates the effect of a natural coating.

Repair of metal tiles

If you get acquainted with the main characteristics of such a roofing material as a metal tile, it seems that repairs will never touch it.

But there are situations in which even such a reliable material needs repair:

• complete replacement is necessary at the end of the service life;
• overhaul:
  • as a result of the reconstruction of the building;
  • when converting an attic into an attic floor;
• spot roof repair:
  • in case of errors in the installation of the roof itself;
  • replacement of roof elements (ventilation outlets, pipes, etc.).

Repair procedure:

• determination of the reason that entails the repair work;
• drawing up an estimate with an accurate indication of all materials and types of work.
• purchase of materials and search for repair contractors;
• carrying out work.

Features of dismantling the roof of metal tiles

Dismantling of metal tiles is necessary in the following cases:

• when demolishing a building;
• during the overhaul of the roof;
• partial roof repair.

Prior to the dismantling of the roof and truss system, the following work must be completed:

• additional reinforcement attic floor temporary racks and girders to prevent possible collapse;
• dismantling of communication lines: broadcasting racks, television and radio antennas;
• dismantling of chimneys with lowering materials on the attic floor;
• mandatory dismantling of plumbing fixtures and electrical wiring in the attic.

It is better to start disassembling a metal tile by removing the ridge, wind elements and valley linings. Profile sheets of metal tiles must be dismantled in order from top to bottom. After that, the lower valley and the drainage system are dismantled.

For such a roofing material as a metal tile, the installation technology is not complicated. The main rule of any installation is to follow the manufacturer's recommendations and accepted instructions for installing the roof. If all the rules are followed, a roof made of metal will last for decades.