How to independently make the right roof in a private house. The better to cover the roof of a house - how to choose a roofing material What material to make a roof from

A good roof is an architecturally attractive, reliable, technically equipped and durable structure. This is the kind of roof that owners of houses engaged in construction or repair want to create. At the same time, the question of what to make the roof of the house from, each person decides differently. In this article, we describe the most important rules regarding this issue.

Choice roofing for a roof is always a long reflection and a reason to evaluate your financial capabilities. What to choose?

Modern roll materials or slate slate? Ondulin or corrugated board? Or natural tiles?

Tortured over this issue, many homeowners reduce attention to the issue of the foundation of the roof. What will the selected material be laid on?

In other words, the quality of the coating is not the main determining factor in the reliability of the roof.

The strength and durability of the roof is due to two indicators:

the quality of the truss system (base);
roofing quality.

roof base

If you do not initially take care of the strength of the base structure, it is unlikely that you will be able to equip good roof. Evidence of this fact lies on the surface: over time, a truss system that is not designed for load will simply begin to break.

Attention. Keep in mind that the structure of the rafters takes the weight of the roofing, strong wind gusts and snow pressure.

Therefore, when choosing materials for the truss system, it is necessary to consider:

type and weight of the roof covering;
typical for a certain area weather;
thickness of snow masses;
the strength of the wind;
extra margin of safety.

Only strong roof rafters can provide decent protection to a building structure. However, you should not prepare the base as if the roof is ready to withstand aircraft shells.

Advice. In this case, scrupulous planning and optimal solutions are required.

When choosing a material, both for the roof and for the rafters, keep in mind that the house is a complete system. If the supporting structure of the roof is able to withstand the roofing, then the supports - the walls, must correspond to the loads of two links - the roof and the rafters.

Walls, as a rule, are also not adhered to by air. Accordingly, the foundation of the house must withstand the entire above-ground structure.

However, this is an abstract attitude to the issue, which is actually the topic of our article. We think you'll need more specific recommendations.

Primary requirements

According to the existing SNIP, the calculation of the roof structure provides for withstanding a load of 200 kg per 1 sq. m, regardless of the severity of the roofing.

This indicator includes an additional strength factor, wind and snow load.

The additional margin is applicable on the basis of:

hurricane wind;
multi-day snowfall;
the presence of repairmen on the surface of the roof, to care for the roofing.

The main calculation is based on the features of the roofing material laid on the rafters.

Material for rafters

What is better to make the roof of the house, that is roof structure? On the this moment in construction, wooden rafters are in demand, due to the excellent quality of wood.

Many may argue that wooden structure not as strong and durable as, for example, reinforced concrete or metal.

On this occasion, it can be noted that in order to raise heavy reinforced concrete rafters to the roof, it is necessary to attract special equipment. Next moment. Imagine if mistakes were made during the construction of the walls.

As is usually the case, the rafters need to be adjusted. When using metal or concrete, this is extremely difficult or almost impossible to do.

And, finally, laying roofing material on a wooden base is much easier than on the alternative base described.

That is why heavy metal constructions are used on large construction sites with roofs of complex configurations.

Wooden rafters are made and lifted without the use of lifting machines.

In addition, without much effort they can be customized:

shorten;
ramp up.

Naturally, various roofing materials make adjustments to the wooden truss structure. If a heavy roof is used, then the rafters must be strong enough; with light roofing materials, a lightweight truss system can be used.

This is regulated by the norms of SNIP and the desire of home owners to save on construction.

Most optimal dimensions in the manufacture of rafters:

with a heavy roof, the cross section of the rafters should be more than 70x150 mm with a minimum pitch;
under a light coating for rafters, a wooden blank 50x150 mm is used in increments of up to one meter.

With an increase in the slope of the roof, the pitch increases.

Lathing material

But, the foundation is not formed from the rafters alone. For laying roofing material, it is necessary to build a crate. It is best to use dried wood for its manufacture so that the deformation of the roof does not occur.

For example, for roll coating or soft tiles the decking is made of waterproof plywood or thin boards. Under a natural or metal tile, bars of 60x60 mm are taken. Therefore, the type of lathing is determined by the type of roofing material.

The choice of roofing material

The influence of precipitation, sudden temperature changes, mechanical impacts can be reduced by correct selection roofing materials. To determine what is better to make a roof from, it is necessary to carry out a conditional division of the roof into:

heavy;
light.

If the weight of the roofing is 5 kg per sq. m, then the roof is considered to be light.

corrugated board;
soft bituminous coating.

When using such a coating, the roof is installed quickly; the roof structure itself is light, which reduces the load on the walls and foundation; the cost of the roof is relatively cheap.

In addition, the roof can be easily dismantled if it is necessary to replace parts of the coating or the supporting structure. Based on a survey of consumers on the question of what material is better to cover the roof, the following roofing materials can be noted first of all:

soft tiles.

The popularity of metal tiles

metal tile

The basis of the metal tile is galvanized steel. On both sides, a special coating is applied to it.

This material long time is among the most popular, among many roofing materials. The reason for this popularity is due to a number of advantages of such a design, as well as appearance.

The advantages of metal roofing include:

high resistance to corrosion, subject to proper transportation and installation;
light weight;
ease of coating device;
lightweight version of the truss system;
ease of roof repair;
service life up to 30 years;
variety of shades and colors.

However, giving preference to this material, it should be noted that when it is installed, it is necessary to arrange sound insulation, thermal insulation, waterproofing, lightning rod. The service life of metal tiles, color fastness and performance characteristics of the material is affected by its polymer coating.

There are several types of coverage;

plastisol;
polyester;
pural;
matte polyester.

The polyester coating is characterized by:

optimal ratio of quality and cost;
good color fastness;
possibility of application under various climatic conditions.

Matte polyester has the same advantages as a regular coating, only it has a more pleasant look.

Pural coating is resistant to chemical influences, solar radiation, high temperature, has a silky surface. The plastisol coating is resistant to mechanical stress and atmospheric influences. However, the resistance to solar radiation of this coating is low.

Advice. Therefore, plastisol-coated metal tiles are not recommended for roofing in the southern regions.

Although, under conditions of aggressive environment plastisol is resistant to corrosion.

Types of soft roof

Expressed by the need to build a solid foundation.

Soft roofing is divided into two types:

piece;
rolled.

Representatives of rolled materials are roofing material, rubemast, bikrost. Piece roofing materials include bituminous and soft tiles. For the installation of a soft roof, a solid base must also be prepared.

The advantages of soft roofing include:

preservation of shape during transportation and installation;
lightness, affordable price;
mounting speed.

The soft tile has a set of flowers that allows to diversify design decisions.

The main properties of a soft roof include its elasticity, which allows roofing work on curved planes. Let be soft roof not as durable as roofing materials based on steel, but it has strength, reliability, frost resistance, and the ability to absorb noise.

Selection Options

When choosing the best material To cover the roof should be guided by several parameters:

decorative qualities of the coating;
material cost;
the weight and strength of the roof.

If you want to avoid a heavy load on the bearing elements, then you need to choose a lighter material. For example, natural tiles are 10 times heavier than metal tiles, and 5 times heavier than flexible tiles.

The first thing to focus on when choosing the best material is its durability, practicality, appearance. The service life of the roof is affected by temperature changes. Porous roofings are especially susceptible to temperature influences.

The resistance to fire of the roof is due to its composition. Soft tile is not resistant to high temperatures, it also ignites easily, as it contains bitumen. On the contrary, the metal tile has a high resistance to fire.

Over time on construction market new technologies and materials appear. We have described the most optimal choice in terms of quality and price, excluding those materials that are used in elite construction.

The roofing material must meet the following requirements: be moisture-proof, strong, durable, aesthetically pleasing, not exposed to ultraviolet radiation, and be light in weight. Installation of canvases should be simple and easy.

Roofing material selection options

The house is a holistic system, therefore, when choosing a roofing material, it is important to consider whether not only rafters, but also walls with ceilings can withstand the additional weight load. It is especially important to examine the strength of structural elements if the building is old. You should also pay attention to the foundation of the house, since it is he who takes on the entire weight load. In the process of choosing a roofing, the climatic conditions of the region are taken into account: the strength of the winds, the thickness of the snow cover, and air humidity.

Which roofing material is best

One of the most aesthetically pleasing roofing materials is metal roofing. It is strong, durable, easy to install, has a relatively small weight: 4.5 kg per 1 m2. The metal tile throughout the entire period of operation retains the richness of the color, as it does not fade from the sun's rays. To lay it, you will need to mount the crate and buy vapor and waterproofing membranes.

When choosing a metal tile, you should know that backside cloths, unlike external, is subject to formation of corrosion. It is for this reason that a vapor barrier will be required, which entails additional expenses and increases the complexity of the installation of the roof. Another disadvantage of this material is that the sound of raindrops falling on the roof is clearly audible in all areas of the house.

Metal tile is perfect for any roof structures: flat, gable, broken.

Slate - roofing material, which is inexpensive and practical, but short-lived. In aesthetic terms, it is inferior to metal tiles, metal profiles, soft tiles, ondulin. The sound of rain under a slate roof will not be heard, but the coating can be destroyed by prolonged hail. If such weather conditions are not uncommon in the region of residence, it is better to opt for ondulin. This material is inexpensive and aesthetic, but combustible.

One of the newest roofing materials is euroruberoid with figured protrusions "tail". This material will require a backing of OSB boards, which, like himself, have a fairly large weight. Euroruberoid is not cheap, but durable, aesthetic, easy to install. Roofing made of soft tiles is durable and beautiful, but in regions with strong frequent winds it is not worth mounting, as individual tiles can be torn off.

To learn how to make a roof with your own hands correctly, you need to study a few instructions for doing this rather complicated work. It should be noted right away that there are several types of roofs, each of which has its own device scheme and requires a special approach. In addition, the choice of the type of roof will depend on the purpose of the building that will be covered by it.

Properly erected roof elements will be able to protect the house not only from precipitation, but also keep precious heat inside the building in winter. Therefore, a well-built and insulated roof is no less important than reliable warm walls.

As mentioned above, there are several types of roofs. When choosing an option suitable for a particular building, it is worth considering some of them in order to know what they are.

Different types of roofs...

To date, the following main types of roofs are satisfied in construction practice: single-pitched, gable with a slope, tent, mansard, hip four-slope, half-hip, multi-slope.

… from the simplest to the most complex

shed roof

This option is usually used to cover garages or outbuildings, but sometimes such a roof is also arranged for residential private houses.

Such a design can be called one of the simplest of all existing ones, especially in cases where the slope of the slope is very small. If there are plans to equip another room under the roof, then the design becomes somewhat more complicated. Nevertheless, this type of roof is the most economical in terms of roofing and lumber consumption.

Gable roof

The gable version of the roof is considered traditional for residential buildings, country houses and is installed more often than all other types. Apparently, this is due to the fact that such a roof can be arranged for any structure of the building. The slope of the slopes will depend on the distance between the outer walls and the location of the load-bearing walls inside the house.

hipped roof

This is a fairly complex design, which is almost never used in recent times. However, if it is decided to choose it, then it is better to use a beam-tightening system with struts and racks for the device.

The roof consists of four isosceles triangles - their vertices converge at one point. The hipped roof resembles a tetrahedral pyramid or tent, hence its name.

Double pitched roof

Such a roof is arranged according to the scheme gable roof, but has bevels of different slopes in the front part.

Hip or pitched roof

This design is somewhat reminiscent of a hip roof version, but, unlike it, it has a ridge. The roof is quite complex in design, and most often a scheme with double puffs and beams is used to build it.

Half hip roof

This design in last years almost never used, as it is rather complicated in the device. If it is chosen, then it is mainly arranged according to the truss scheme with puffs.

pitched roof

Such a roof is arranged in houses with complex layouts, or if an extension is made to the main building. The design of a multi-pitched roof is quite complex, and it is used only in extreme cases.

mansard roof

You can’t call a mansard roof simple in execution ...

Due to the fact that such a design allows us to solve two problems at once - to obtain extra room along with a reliable roof, attic option can be called one of the most popular after the gable type.

... but under certain conditions, a residential attic can also be located under a conventional gable roof

Roof pitch

It is very important to make the correct slope of the roof - the durability of not only the structure covering the house, but the entire building will depend on this. In regions with cold winters and big amount snow slope plays a particularly important role, since if it is insufficient, then snowdrifts will collect on the surface, which, when melted, can simply fail the roof. That is why it is recommended to make the slope at least 40 ÷ 45 degrees.

In addition to the location of the building, the roofing material also affects the choice of roof slope. So, if it is planned to use tiles or slate for coating, then the slope should not be less than 25 degrees, otherwise water may seep into the attic at the joints, as there will be a small intensity of water runoff.

When constructing a gable structure, the slope is usually made from 30 to 45, and for a single slope 25 ÷ 30 degrees.

Components of the roof structure

IN different systems roof elements vary, but the main ones still remain the same. These include the following:

Skate - the upper part of the roof, the place where its slopes are connected. This element is absent in the tent and single-sided version.
Slopes are the main planes of the roof covered with roofing material.
Endova - the inner corner of the roof, formed at the junction of two slopes. This element is present only in complex structures. When arranging the roof, valleys should be given special attention during waterproofing work, since such a site is one of the most vulnerable places in the structure, it is in them that the largest accumulation of snow occurs.
The eaves overhang is the overhang of the roof on the sides of the house. They are installing drainage systems.
Gable overhang - the protruding part of the slopes above the front side of the roof.
The rafter system is a structure that is the basis for the installation of slopes. There are several varieties of these systems, but the most reliable of them is the triangle, since it is this figure that gives the structure rigidity.

Rafter systems

Before installing any structure made of wood, the material must first be coated antiseptics and flame retardantsthat can protect it from fungal formations, insect colonies and will increase the fire safety of the entire system.

The main element in the rafter system is the rafters, laid on the Mauerlat, supported by racks, fastened with beds and puffs.

In the upper part, the rafters are overlapped and fastened, while the lower ones are fixed to the Mauerlat or to the bars laid between the rafters.

The truss system has different forms and it can be layered or hanging.

You can make a simplified version when a crate is stuffed on the rafters, and roofing material is immediately laid on top of it. But the very first winter will show that the roof requires insulation. Therefore, it is best to immediately do everything right and not return to this issue again.

Approximate structure of the "sandwich" of the insulated roof

The first thing that is recommended to be done is to sheathe the truss system from the inside with a vapor barrier film. It is stretched and attached to the rafters with a stapler and staples.
Further, on top of the vapor barrier film, the roof from the attic side is sheathed with drywall plates - it is screwed with self-tapping screws. Drywall will not only give the attic space neatness, but also serve as the basis for insulation boards.
At the next stage, you will have to climb the roof so that between the rafters, on the vapor barrier film, lay the insulation, which most often serves mineral wool in mats or rolls.
A boardwalk is laid on top of the insulation. The boards for it should not be too thick so as not to make the structure heavier. Instead of boards, plywood sheets (or OSB) 4-5 mm thick can also be used.
The next layer is sheets of waterproofing material - it can be a dense polyethylene film or roofing material. The waterproofing sheets are overlapped by 20 ÷ 25 cm on top of each other.
On top of the waterproofing, a counter-lattice is arranged, which consists of slats 10–20 mm thick and is stuffed directly onto the rafters.
By counter-lattice fixed roof sheathing, with a distance between adjacent guides, which should be less than the tiles, by about 5 mm.
A frontal board is nailed along the eaves, to which a drain system will later be arranged.
Before laying the roofing material, hooks are fixed to the rafters, on which drainpipes will be mounted. gutters. After their installation, a cornice strip is installed, which is fixed to the frontal board
Having arranged the crate and drainage system, you can proceed with the installation of tiles. It starts from the right or left side of the roof, from the bottom row, the tiles are aligned along the edge of the cornice and overlapped, in accordance with the locking system available on it.

The second row of tiles begins to be laid on the same side as the first - it covers the first row by 50 ÷ 70 mm. Installation is carried out in the same order, up to the roof ridge.
Having completed laying on the roof slopes, it is necessary to install a ridge at their junction.
An end bar is fixed to the side rafter, having a size of 25 × 50 mm, and is installed on the corner of the roof corner - stub.
A self-adhesive sealant is placed between the end bar and the tile.
The entire side of the roof is closed with an end plate, which is designed to protect the roofing material from wind, which can tear off the coating with strong gusts.

Above, the process of arranging the under-roofing system and roofing with tiles was outlined briefly, with a simple enumeration of the main steps. It probably makes sense to consider it in more detail, literally step by step.

Prices for different types of tiles

Roof tiles

Step-by-step instructions for covering the roof with a tiled roof

Installation of the base under the roofing material

Nowadays, a very wide variety of different roofing materials is presented on the construction market. Nevertheless, tile against this “background” does not lose its popularity, although it is one of the most complex and time-consuming roofing installations.

Ceramic tiles represent several European and domestic companies, and it may differ in some design nuances. But the principle of mounting the crate and the coating itself is the same.

For the installation and fixing of tiles, it is necessary to create the right foundation- crate, therefore, it is necessary to begin consideration of the process with the installation of this particular design department.

Illustration
	On the initial stage, of course, one of the types of truss systems is created, the design of which is described above. Before starting work on the installation of the batten on the rafters, the elements of the system must be additionally checked for their evenness and correct geometry. If on one of rafter legs irregularities are found, then it needs to be leveled, since this flaw can negatively affect further work. The check is carried out using a perfectly even beam and a building level.
	The next step along the entire cornice line, a metal cornice strip is nailed to the edges of the rafters, which will protect the ends of the rafters from moisture getting on them. Separate planks are laid and overlapped.
	Further, on top of the truss system, a vapor-permeable membrane is stretched and fixed with brackets. Its first canvas is laid from left to right on top of the cornice strip.
	The next strip of material is laid horizontally, overlapping 150 mm on the bottom sheet. The membrane is mounted with an inscription, which is applied to one of the surfaces, outward. Along the cornice edge, the canvas is additionally fixed on the cornice strip with the help of construction double-sided tape.
	The last top sheet should protrude above the ridge, as it bends onto the second roof slope.
	At the next stage, the vapor-permeable membrane is fixed from above to the rafter legs with counter rails. It should be noted that if the length of the slope is not more than 6000 mm, the thickness of the counter rail should be 24 mm, with a length of not more than 12000 mm - 28 mm, from 12000 mm - 40 mm. The counter rails should not reach the ridge rib by 120÷150 mm.
	Further, on the ridge at the top of the junction of the rafter legs, pieces of timber 150 ÷ 200 long and with a section of 50 × 50 mm are fixed. The space remaining between them will play the role of ventilation gaps.
	After that, the ridge is covered with a sheet of a vapor-permeable membrane, which should be on the slopes and go beyond the structure from the gables to a distance of 200 ÷ 250 mm.
	On top of the membrane, laid along the ridge, for its fixation, sections of the beam are fixed in continuation of the counter-rails. Their size should be equal to the distance from the end of the counter rail to the crest of the ridge.
	When forming the cornice overhang, a perforated mesh-plate is mounted on the ends of the counter-rails and on the cornice strip, designed to provide ventilation of the space formed under the roofing material and protect against the penetration of various insects into this gap.
	Further, brackets are fixed in the eaves of the counter-rails for mounting gutters on them. Each of them is fixed with two screws or nails.
	In order for the gutter to be laid into the brackets without problems, they must be installed exactly in line with the formation of a slope for free flow of water. To do this, craftsmen often install two extreme brackets with the necessary difference, then pull a cord between them, and, already focusing on it, fix the rest of the hooks.
	After installing the brackets, a hinged beam is nailed along the cornice edge of the counter-rails along the entire length of the slope eaves. It also becomes the starting beam of the crate under the tiles.
	From the hinged beam on the extreme (at gables or roof profile fractures) counter-rails of the slope, the distance (step) with which the battens of the crate will be fixed is marked. This step will depend on the length and overlap of the particular shingle model. Most often it varies from 340 mm to 370 mm. Marking must be done on the extreme counter-rails. Then, on the marked risks, a nail is hammered in, a tracer colored cord is fixed and pulled on them, and with the help of it, a common line is beaten off on all counter-rails to secure the battens of the crate.
	The next step on the entire plane of the slope along the markings, horizontal battens of the crate are nailed to the counter-rails. Their cross-sectional size should be 70 × 30 or 70 × 25 mm.
	Upon completion of the installation, the crate should look like this.
	Next, it is necessary to prepare the roof ridge for further installation of ridge tiles on it - this can be done by attaching two beams to the ridge along the entire length, one on top of the other.
	Another option is to use special elements called ridge bar holders. They are screwed to the counter rails using two self-tapping screws on each side of the ridge.
	A wooden bar is installed and fixed in the fixed holders. Holders are convenient in that they can have different sizes and heights, so you can always choose it according to the required parameters.
	Further, a gutter is installed and fixed in the brackets along the entire length of the eaves.
	The gutter is additionally pressed by another cornice strip mounted on the eaves rail. This element, fixed along the entire length of the cornice, closes the entrance to the under-roof space, thereby protecting it from moisture, and descends into the gutter.
	Further, on top of the crate along the edges of the slope from the side of the gables, bars with a section of 70 × 70 mm are nailed. They will become the basis for fixing the wind board from the gable part of the roof, as well as limit and close the edge of the tiled masonry.
	After that, wind boards are installed and fixed along the pediment, which are additionally interconnected in the ridge area with a metal corner. On this, the preparation of the crate for the installation of a tile coating can be considered completed.

Installation of tiles on the prepared crate

The installation of most models of ceramic tiles is almost identical, no matter what manufacturer's material is chosen by the owners.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	Installation of tiles starts from the eaves with right side stingray. The corner tile is laid first, which is fixed to the second rail from the eaves.
	The first tile is fixed in the upper part with the help of two self-tapping screws that are not completely screwed in.
	Further, the entire first row of tiles is laid out, each of which is fixed in the upper part on the lathing rail with the help of one self-tapping screw through a hole drilled in it in advance.
	At the end of the first row of tiles, the last left corner tile is installed and screwed with two self-tapping screws.
	Further, from the bottom to the ridge, the first vertical gable row is mounted, consisting of corner tiles, each of which is fixed with two self-tapping screws.
	Next, you will need to prepare the tiles, which will be laid on top of the bracket for mounting a snow barrier on it. In order for the tile to neatly stand up and close the bracket, its location is marked on its reverse side and part of the lock is carefully knocked out with a hammer.
	Now, in the second horizontal row with a step of 900 mm, the brackets themselves are installed. This element top- it is hooked with a hook and screwed to the third lath of the crate from the eaves. With the lower side, it is installed on top of the lower tile of the first row.
	Once installed and secured, the bracket should look like this illustration.
	Further, the prepared tile is installed on top of the fixed bracket and screwed to the third lath of the crate.
	The tile covering the bracket is additionally fixed with a wire hook, with which it is hooked to the side edge and twisted to the lath of the crate. In this way, every third tile of this row is fixed, which is laid on brackets-holders. In this illustration, a wire hook is clearly visible, located on the left edge of the tiles of the second row.
	Having installed the shingles of the second row, and having fixed all the brackets for the snow barrier, you need to try it on in place as it will be fixed later. It does not make sense to fix the barrier yet, as it will interfere with the further installation of the tiles.
	Further, laying of ordinary and corner tiles is overlapped, with their connection to locks, also from right to left, from bottom to top to those areas where additional elements necessary for the normal functioning of the roof structure are built into the coating.
	In this way, most often it is necessary to lay special ventilation tiles. If the roof has a length of up to 4500 mm, then these elements are not used. With a length of 4500 to 7000 mm, one row of ventilation tiles is mounted on the second row, counting from the ridge. On longer roofs, ventilation tiles are installed in three rows with a spacing of 1500 mm between them.
	On the third or fourth row from the ridge, in the middle part of the slope, a tile with a ventilation pipe, called a passage, is installed.
	In combination with other elements of the roof, this element looks like it is shown in this illustration.
	Having tried on this tile on a slope, it is temporarily removed, and a round hole is marked and cut out in the membrane under it. Then a sealing ring is installed in it.
	Further, from the attic side, a corrugated connecting pipe is inserted into the ring. Usually its diameter is 120 mm. Then, it is connected with the reverse side to the ventilation duct of the building.
	A protective cap is put on top of the ventilation pipe, which will protect the entire channel from atmospheric precipitation, dust and debris.
	Complete with tiles, a bench (step) for a chimney sweep is often purchased. This element of the roofing system is fixed on the fourth or fifth row from the ridge. The bench brackets are also of a hook design, and they are hooked and screwed to the top lath of the batten in the laying of the row. The lower side of the brackets is installed in the recesses on the tiles of the underlying row.
	In order for the closing brackets of the tiles of the upper row to fit snugly against the lath of the crate, chips are made in its locks located in the upper part after fitting. Then, the tiles are laid on top of the hook-brackets and fixed with screws and a wire hook - by analogy with what has already been discussed above.
	Another important and complex node when covering the roof is the design of the adjunction of the roofing material to the walls of the chimney. The joint between them must be sealed correctly and tightly. The most convenient way to work on the formation of the abutment is to use a flexible self-adhesive tape made using lead and aluminum. It well accepts a relief form of a tile and is well pasted to it. Adjacency finishing works are carried out in a certain sequence. First, the tape is glued to the front of the pipe with a call to its side walls, as well as to the tiles of the row passing in front of the chimney. To do this, in place, cuts of the desired shape are made on the tape. Then, it is measured and cut off, and then the tape is glued to the side walls and the tiles adjacent to them.
	To form a joint on the back side of the pipe, two pieces of tape of the same length are taken, which exceeds the width of the pipe by 20 ÷ 30 mm. They are glued to each other in width. Then, having combined the middle of the tape and the width of the pipe at a height of 150 ÷ 200 mm, the waterproofing is glued to the wall of the chimney and onto a metal sheet previously fixed to the crate on the upper side of the pipe. After that, on a tape glued to the metal, a row of tiles is laid on top. The parts of the tape protruding at the corners are cut, wrapped on the sides of the pipe, and overlapped on the waterproofing already fixed to them.
	Some craftsmen prefer to make an adjoining sheet metal, which is cut into strips of the desired width, is mounted according to the same principle as a self-adhesive waterproofing tape. The connection of the edges of the metal at the corners is carried out with the help of rivets and folding.
	Having fixed a waterproofing tape or a metal casing around the entire perimeter of the pipe, along its upper line on the pipe walls, a metal profile bar is fixed, pressing the flexible tape to the surfaces of the chimney. Then, the gap remaining between the upper edge of the plank and the wall of the chimney pipe is filled with a roofing sealant. Often a groove is cut through the wall of the pipe, into which the bent edge of this metal tide is inserted. Then the shtraba is sealed with the same sealant.
	Next, proceed to work on the ridge knot. First, on a fixed ridge beam overlapped on top row tiles are covered with a perforated sealing ventilation tape made using aluminum and lead.
	Due to its flexibility, this ribbon skirt perfectly adapts to the shape of the tiles without much effort.
	After the tape has been laid, the end ridge element is screwed on the pediment side of the ridge, and the first ridge tile is tried on to it.
	Further, the first tile is removed, and a ridge clamp with a bracket, which comes with the ridge tile, is screwed to the timber fixed on the ridge of the roof.
	Then the first ridge tile is installed in it. Further, it is fastened on the other side with the next clamp using a self-tapping screw.
	The next step is to install the second tile into the fixed bracket, which is also fixed at the end with a clamp - and so on, until the ridge is fully formed.
	When finished, the roof ridge should look like this illustration.
	The final stage in the design of the ridge is the fixing of the second end element. If necessary, the last tile of this row is cut to the desired size.
	When all additional elements roofing will be installed, the last step to the brackets installed in the lower part of the slope is the lattice barrier that holds back the sliding of snow.
	This illustration shows a view of the finished roof slab as viewed from the eaves side.
	This is how the roof slope will look with all the elements installed on it.

After completing the roof covering, you can move to the attic to remove the temporary decking and lay the already stationary wooden floor. Installation begins to be carried out from the side of the attic or from the side of the room. The attic floor also consists of several layers and is arranged in different ways. The main thing is that if the roof is arranged, then work can be carried out slowly, without fear of precipitation on permeable materials and inside the premises.

In conclusion, it is worth emphasizing once again that the installation of a roof is a laborious, responsible and rather dangerous process. Therefore, for the installation of the entire roofing system better sometimes it would be most expedient to invite specialists who are professionally involved in the construction of houses, arrangement and roofing.

10.05.2016 0 Comments

Many owners of suburban land plots, in order to save money, prefer to start building a house on their own. If you have certain skills, this allows you to decently reduce the cost of wages for hired workers. The final stage self construction buildings is the erection of the roof with their own hands. This design is an integral and one of the most important parts of the building, which protects it from atmospheric influences. It should be noted that a do-it-yourself roof is not done alone; in any case, 2-3 assistants will be needed.

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Roof element definitions

First you need to familiarize yourself with some terms and definitions:

A roof is a building structure that covers the top floor. It provides thermal insulation and performs waterproofing functions.
A roof is a roof covering that provides protection from atmospheric precipitation.
Mauerlat is an element of the roofing system that transfers the load from the roof structures to the load-bearing walls. Usually it is a beam or a log laid on the walls around the perimeter of the building, but in the case of installation metal frame can be made of rolled metal - channel or I-beam.
Rafter - an inclined load-bearing element of the roof, most often in the form of a bar. The combination of rafters forms a truss system that carries the roofing and transfers the load to the Mauerlat.

Roof construction process

Below step-by-step instruction on the construction of the roof with your own hands will allow you to avoid mistakes and build the roof correctly. The production technology of works includes several stages.

Drafting a roof structure

Before you start work, you need to draw up detailed drawing the future design of the pitched roof, this will determine required amount building materials and prepare right tool. Roofs can be single-pitched, with a slope only in one direction, gable or more complex structures(four-pitched, hipped and spire-shaped). It is best to take as a basis standard drawings of roof structures developed by professionals and available in the public domain.

Mauerlat installation

Usually, the Mauerlat is made from a bar with a section of 150 × 100 (150) mm. It is laid along the inner edge of the wall on waterproofing material, which can serve as a double layer of roofing material or polyethylene. Mauerlat protect from external atmospheric influences, if the house is stone - nearby brickwork if wooden - the same layer of waterproofing or facing materials. Mauerlat bars along the perimeter are fastened together into a single structure, sawing 100-150 mm long segments into half the thickness of the bar. and connecting them with bolts or nails. Mauerlat is attached to wooden walls with metal brackets, to brick walls, foam and gas silicate blocks- using threaded studs with a diameter of about 12-16 mm, embedded in a reinforced concrete belt arranged along the top of the wall. The studs are placed along the perimeter at a distance of 1500-2000 mm., holes are drilled in the beam of the structure for them.

This is the next step in building a roof with your own hands. The layout of the rafters is determined based on the selected design features roofs. The distance between structural elements and the size of the section of the material depends on the length of the roof slope. So, with a rafter length of up to 4 meters, the rafter pitch varies from 1000 mm. (with a beam section of 80 × 160 mm.) up to 1800 mm. (with a beam section of 90 × 180 mm.), with a roof slope length of up to 6 meters for a rafter pitch of 1000 (1400) mm. you will need a beam with a section of 80 × 200 (100 × 200) mm. However, these values \u200b\u200bare not mandatory, if the option of laying rolled or slab thermal insulation is subsequently considered, then it would be best to adjust the pitch of the rafters to the size of the insulation. The type and, accordingly, the weight of the selected roof also affects the step and size of the rafter section. For example, heavy ceramic tiles or slates require a greater bearing capacity of roof structures than ondulin or galvanized steel roofing.

An important point is the choice of the angle of inclination of the roof. The greater the angle to the horizontal, the less snow will linger on the roof, which makes it possible to reduce the cross section of the beam for the manufacture of rafters. The optimal angle is 45 degrees., it ensures the stability of the structure to strong gusts of wind and at the same time prevents significant snow masses from accumulating on the roof.

The rafters are attached to the Mauerlat by several methods, it can be a tie-in followed by fastening with nails or using metal brackets. In the case of using brackets, labor-intensive insertion into the rafter leg is not required; the structures are connected using self-tapping screws or bolts. The metal thickness of the bracket is about 2 mm. and anti-corrosion coating ensure the reliability and durability of fastening. Recently, in the construction of wooden houses is popular fastener"sled", which provides a small degree of freedom of fastening to compensate for possible deformations during the settlement of the building. In parallel with the fastening of the rafters to the Mauerlat, installation is carried out ceiling log – transverse bars, serving as the basis for the attic floor device. The usual section of the log is 100 × 150 or 200 × 100 mm, depending on the width of the span of the building. When connecting ceiling lags with rafters, it is possible to provide additional strength to the rafter system.

The upper part of the rafters when installing the roof with your own hands can also be connected in several ways:

overlapping (in this case, a cut is made for half the section of the rafters and a hole is drilled for a bolted connection using wide washers)
by cutting the ends of the rafters at an angle (the upper ends of the timber are cut to obtain a vertical joint, to ensure the strength of the assembly, fastening plates or wooden linings are used)

To provide additional rigidity, at a distance from the top of the rafters, approximately ¼ of the total height of the structure, horizontal puffs with a section of 100 × 50 mm are attached.

It is carried out along the roof directly on the rafters using small nails or a construction stapler. Work begins from the bottom of the rafters so that the upper canvas overlaps the lower one by 5-10 cm. At the same time, the film should sag, but not more than 2 cm. At the final stage of these works, counter rails with a section of 25 × 50 mm are nailed on top of the film on the rafters.

The sheathing is used to fasten the roof elements to the roof structure. Usually, boards with a section of 100 × 25 mm are used for its implementation. and a length sufficient to cover two steps of the rafter legs. Fastening to the rafters is carried out using nails with a length of at least 100 mm. The joint of the boards of the crate should fall on the supports and the distance between their ends should not exceed 5 mm. The boards that form the ridge (top of the truss system) should be as close to each other as possible. The type of lathing is selected based on the type of roofing being laid. For soft, tiled and roll roofing full decking is required. Sometimes a two-layer flooring is required, in which case the first layer of boards is parallel to the ridge, the second is perpendicular, along the roof slope. For slate and metal roofs, a crate with a step of boards commensurate with the dimensions of the material used is quite suitable.

Depending on the selected roofing material, the appropriate installation method is also used. Roofs made of slate, ondulin and flexible bituminous tiles start from the bottom of the roof, providing a sufficient overlap of the overlying row to the underlying one. Slate and ondulin are attached to the crate with roofing nails, shingles- galvanized nails with a wide hat. Metal tiles are laid in the following way: the first sheet is aligned along the end of the roof and the eaves, the second is higher than the first, the third is on the side, the fourth is higher than the second. Sheets of metal tiles are fastened with galvanized self-tapping screws. Ceramic tiles are fixed from bottom to top in rows from right to left. Previously, all the material is laid out evenly on the crate, in stacks of 5-6 tiles. Fastening to the crate is carried out with galvanized screws.

Laying thermal insulation

Produced from inside the roof into the space between the rafters. The insulation is cut into required size so that the width of the sheet is 20-30 mm. more inter-rafter distance. This will ensure the fixation of the material “by surprise”, to straighten the material after pushing between the rafters, it is necessary to press on the middle of the sheet. A vapor barrier film is attached over the insulation layer using a construction stapler. The film must be fastened with an overlap of 5-7 cm.