How to close the pipes in the toilet? How to close pipes in a toilet: options, materials and technologies Concealed installation - gating.

The interior of a modern toilet room should carry not only an aesthetic component, but also be as comfortable as possible.

An important role is played by the laying method sewer pipes. Few people like open pipes in the toilet. Apart from appearance cleaning them can be a hassle.

To prevent this, concealed mounting is the best solution.

Depending on the required indicators bandwidth and technical standards, pipes of the following types and sizes can be installed in the toilet room:

• plastic from polypropylene. The recommended diameter for connecting a toilet bowl is 110 mm. In this case, the pipe must be directly connected to the riser.

For other plumbing fixtures (sink, bathtub, etc.), the diameter of the supply pipes must not exceed the diameter of the appliance outlet. Traditionally, this is a size of 50 mm.

• cast iron pipes. Currently, they are practically not used due to poor performance, high price and complexity of installation.

When replacing cast iron pipes for plastic, it should be borne in mind that the wall thickness of cast iron is much greater than plastic.

Photo: piping in the toilet, which must be hidden

Selection should be carried out according to the internal dimensions of the pipe.
Upon completion of the selection of material, work is underway to install the sewer line.

Installation methods

Currently, there are 2 types of installation of sewer pipes:

• open. The entire pipe area is in the free access zone;
• closed. Pipes are hidden using special structures or by strobing.

Using the first method allows you to save space in the toilet, since additional structures will not be present in it.

In the second method, the pipes are not visible, which allows you to give the toilet a more aesthetic appearance.

closed installation

For closed pipe installation, it is necessary to adhere to certain rules which, if not followed, could lead to disastrous consequences.

Important! A feature of the hidden installation of sewer pipes is the ability to check their condition and carry out cleaning and repair work.

Before deciding how to hide pipes, you need to familiarize yourself with the installation rules.

Flush mounting rules

• in the process of designing a structure, it is necessary to take into account the location of water and sewer meters. You can provide free access to these devices using inspection hatches or a freely removable panel;
• before starting work, all pipes must be installed in accordance with the standards: have a certain, connecting joints are checked for tightness;
• when it is necessary to provide access to their design for periodic cleaning and checking the condition;
• during installation, pipes that tear off structural elements should not be subjected to mechanical stress.

Compliance with these rules will prevent unforeseen problems in the operation of the sewer system.

How to close pipes in a box

Closing pipes with additional structures is the most common way. In this case, you can choose from several options for shapes and design solutions.

The material for the manufacture of the structure can be varied: drywall, plastic panels.

false wall

With a relatively large area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe toilet, the most optimal way would be to make a false wall.

It is a solid structure, the dimensions of which are close to the dimensions of the wall.

Photo false wall:

Being at a certain distance necessary to hide the sewer pipes, its installation is done right next to the ceiling and floor.

Depending on the external cladding materials used (plastic, drywall, tiles), the technology and method of mounting the supporting structure is used.

Photo: false wall installation

The advantage of this concealment of sewer pipes is the variability of forms.

Video: Repair of a typical toilet in a multi-storey building

For optimal distribution of free space, the following types of false walls can be used:

• oblique;
• box;
• multilevel box.

Oblique false wall

With small dimensions of the toilet room, you can use the method of spot hiding pipes. In particular - the construction of the riser.

To do this, all pipes adjacent to the wall are closed not with rectangular boxes or a solid wall, but with a structure located at an acute angle to the load-bearing walls.

Photo: oblique false wall oblique false wall with a hatch

When designing this structure, the following recommendations should be followed:

• after installation, the panels should not come into contact with pipes. This is necessary to prevent the ingress of moisture that occurs on the surface of the pipes;
• the size of the front side of the false wall must be calculated so that inspection hatches can be installed. Ideally, this is a composite wall with removable panels.

square box

Square design decorative wall the most common and can be of the following types:

• floor-to-ceiling box. Hides the riser pipe;
• a rectangular structure having an upper horizontal surface at an arbitrary level (multi-level type).

Photo: square box complex structure boxes

The requirements for installation rules for this design are the same as for oblique false walls. This method is optimal when deciding how to close the pipe in the toilet.

Tiered box

For maximum beneficial use false panels, a combined method of closing pipes is often used when square and multi-level boxes are mounted.

Photo: three-level box

This technique will allow you to hide all sewer pipes, while maintaining the free space of the toilet.

The horizontal surfaces of short boxes can be used as shelves.

Gating

Chamfering is the process of making mounting recesses for pipes in a wall.

The use of this installation method allows not to reduce the size of the toilet due to additional structures.

Photo: strobe under pipes

This method has strict restrictions on technical parameters walls and pipes:

• maximum pipe diameter 50 mm;
• when gating a load-bearing wall, the depth of the furrow should not exceed 15% of the wall thickness;
• due to the specifics of the technology, it is impossible to hide the riser and pipe from the toilet in this way;
• it is mandatory to provide for the installation of inspection hatches throughout the entire pipeline.

Open mounting

In modern bathrooms it is almost impossible to meet the traditional open installation of sewer pipes.

Photo: open pipe installation

Its technology is simple and consists only in observing the laying standards - sewer pipes, choosing the correct pipe diameter and manufacturing materials.

Often, when planning open installation, they try to combine sewer and water pipes. At the same time, the minimum distances between them.

How to close the pipes

The most important issue when hiding sewer pipes is the choice of material for the manufacture of false walls.

To do this, it is necessary to take into account the specifics of the toilet room - high humidity and a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. Consider the most popular ways to hide pipes.

Closed with plastic panels

Photo: plastic panel box

Plastic panels are measured sheets made of PVC. Their main characteristics are:

• thickness - 5 to 10 mm. The larger it is, the stronger the panel;
• dimensions - length (260 cm, 270 cm, 300 cm and 600 cm) and width ( from 10 cm to 50 cm). The size is chosen taking into account the minimum residues after installation;
• method of attaching panels to each other- suture and seamless.

Before starting work, you need to take care of the availability of materials and tools.

Materials and tools

The optimal set of tools includes:

• building level and tape measure;
• a drywall knife or a special saw for plastic. Necessary for cutting panels;
• metal scissors;
• screwdrivers - slotted and cross;
• drill;
• screwdriver Facilitates the installation of panels.

List of required materials:

• plastic panels;
• steel mounting profile - UD and CD;
• floor and ceiling plastic skirting boards, corners - internal and external.
• start line;
• mounting dowels for fastening a steel profile;
• metal fasteners - suspensions. Required to install the mounting profile from the wall plane to the required distance;
• transparent silicone;
• press washers with a drill 3.9 x 16.

Before purchasing materials, it is necessary to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future false wall and select optimal size panels and mounting profile, taking into account the minimization of residues after cutting.

Installation process

Calculate the required distance from the wall to the installation of the trim panels.

Photo: installation calculation

Install hangers on the wall, taking into account the location of the inspection hatches. They should be at a distance of at least 300, but not more than 600 mm from each other.

Installation is carried out using a drill and dowels.

After installing the suspensions, we proceed to fastening the steel profiles. Bend the mounting ends of the hangers perpendicular to the plane of the wall.

Photo: installation diagram of a box of metal profiles

Using the level, start fastening the profiles so that their common plane is the same over the entire area. It must also be strictly perpendicular to the plane of the floor.

After installation, you should get the following picture.

Photo: profile frame

Install inspection hatches in previously prepared places.

Installation of panels starts from the door, they are installed vertically.

Photo: mounting panels on a profile

Using a drill, they are screwed to the mounting profile with press washers through special shelves on their structure.

To hide edges and corners use additional profiles– starting strip, skirting boards and corner profiles.

At the end of the installation, the joints located near sources of moisture can be treated with silicone.

Close pipes with roller shutters

Photo: masking pipes with roller shutters

Installing a roller shutter in a toilet as a building envelope is more practical than installing inspection hatches. They allow free access to the interior space between the wall and the bezel.

Materials and tools;

• drill;
• level and tape measure;
• fixing material;
• installation kit for roller shutters;

Mounting process

Depending on the size of the roller shutters, they can be mounted on the entire wall area or in separate blocks.

To install the roller shutter over the entire area, the following preparatory work should be carried out:

• align the walls so that the distance between them is the same over the entire height;
• installation can be done both before the final cladding of the remaining walls, and after;

Installation of a small roller shutter is carried out in a structure made of steel profiles, similar to the fastening of plastic panels.

Important! The distance between the profiles must correspond to the required opening for the installation of the roller shutter.

Guides and the upper box are installed according to the instructions.

Photo: installing guides

Lamellas are attached to the drum shaft. They must be in the grooves of the guide rails.

Photo: lamella fastening

After installing the last lamella, the structure is checked for opening and closing. The result should be a design, as in the figure.

Photo: health check

However, it is worth noting that the installation of roller shutters requires qualifications and experience. It is best to involve specialists for this.

Roller shutter installation video

We close with drywall

Drywall, as a material for making a false wall in a toilet, is considered as the basis for cladding (moisture-resistant wallpaper, tiles, painting).

Materials and tools

To carry out the work you will need:

• roulette and level;
• drill and screwdriver;
• fixing canopies;
• drywall sheets.

For indoor work with high humidity moisture resistant drywall must be used. Standard sheet dimensions are: width - 1.2 m; height - 2, 2.5 and 3 m. Thickness 12.5 mm.

• mounting dowels and press washers for fixing drywall;
• finishing putty and paper tape for insulating joints.

Mounting process

Fastening the frame for mounting drywall panels is completely similar to the frame of plastic panels.

Photo: installation of profiles

Marking is made for the installation of a steel profile, canopies are attached to which the profile is installed.

Before installation, it is not necessary to install inspection hatches - upon completion of all work in plasterboard wall make holes equal to the dimensions of the hatches and put them in these openings.

Photo: plasterboard sheathing

The surface is treated with finishing putty.

Hiding pipes under tiles

The traditional use of ceramic tiles for wall cladding in the toilet is also possible in the manufacture of a false wall.

Photo: box under the tiles

Materials and tools

For work you will need:

• roulette and level;
• drill and screwdriver;
• slotted and cross screwdrivers;
• steel profile for the manufacture of the frame;
• fixing canopies;
• drywall or other moisture-resistant material that will become the basis for the tiles;
• tile;
• tile adhesive;
• tile cutter.

Mounting process

Installation of tiles can be carried out both on a false wall, and in the case of using gated concealment of sewer pipes.

A layer of glue is applied to the surface prepared for installation. Mounting part tiles are moistened for better adhesion to the adhesive.

Photo: box frame

Installation of tiles is done from the corner.

After the final installation, inspection hatches are installed in pre-prepared holes.

Photo: cut holes for hatches

In order not to spoil the aesthetic appearance, you can use special designs of hatches on which tiles can be glued.

Photo: glue tiles

Video; hiding pipes in the toilet under the tiles

Hiding horizontal pipes

Hiding is possible in several ways:

• installation of a structure from profiles with subsequent cladding;
• purchase of special decorative boxes for hiding pipes.

The choice depends on the specific configuration of the pipeline and the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.

If the decorative box matches the general style of the toilet, then such an installation will be optimal. It won't take much time or money.

When solving the problem of hiding sewer pipes in the toilet, one should adhere to the "golden mean". The design should be in harmony with the functional component.

Video: Installation of an invisibility hatch in a box

Do-it-yourself toilet repair is not one of the most difficult jobs - the combination of temperature and humidity in the toilet room rarely goes beyond the usual for living quarters. It is only necessary to remember that the toilet is an exclusively functional room, and everything in it must be subordinated to a very specific goal: to ensure the best functioning of the smooth muscles of the excretory organs.

It does not at all follow from this that we are going to talk about things that cannot be said. On the contrary, we will describe how to make an inexpensive repair of the toilet, while turning it into a room that is cozy, comfortable and peaceful. Even Galen and Avicenna wrote that for the sake of health and longevity, natural needs should be sent in a good mood and with pleasure. Modern medicine fully confirms their conclusions.

Repair stages

Step-by-step repair of the toilet includes the following stages of work:

1. choice of type, place and method of installation of the toilet bowl;
2. design development;
3. selection and purchase of materials;
4. cleaning the floor, walls, ceiling;
5. laying communications;
6. floor repair;
7. plumbing cabinet;
8. wall and ceiling repairs;
9. floor finishing;
10. installation of lighting, ventilation, washbasin, urinal, bidet;
11. wall, sanitary cabinet, ceiling decoration;
12. door replacement.

Repair that does not involve the replacement of plumbing and complex construction works(cosmetic) is much simpler and will be described in a separate section. And now let's look at the stages of how to make repairs in the toilet.

Toilet bowl

For the sake of it, in fact, the toilet was created. When choosing this device, you should first of all think: is it possible to put a hanging toilet bowl?

The faucet, washbasin spout and shower diffuser built into the wall are nothing more than a tribute to fashion. Their technical and economic expediency, to put it mildly, are very, very doubtful: the slightest malfunction is tantamount to a breakthrough, hence the exorbitant high cost of devices with their lower reliability at times. In some countries, building codes already outright prohibit them.

But the toilet is a completely different matter. It is difficult to clean the floor around its pedestal, and especially the corner under the outlet, and if you take a smear there and submit it for analysis to the SES ... the faint of heart are asked to refrain from viewing.

Under the wall-mounted toilet there is a flat, easy-to-clean floor. You can’t make a niche in the wall for it in our typical house - the wall thickness is not enough - but in any toilet, the hanging bracket and the flush tank are very simply covered by a sanitary cabinet that does not allow dirt to accumulate in the nooks and crannies. And the repair of a small toilet in this case simultaneously solves another important sanitary and hygienic problem, which will be discussed in its place.

Design

The requirements for the design of the toilet, based on the needs of physiology, are justified by a huge mass of material, from the works of those studying camps primitive people archaeologists before latest research in the field of molecular biology. The basis is a simple fact: biological evolution is at a snail's pace compared to the development of civilization, and physiologically we are the same as our distant ancestors in skins and with a knotty oak in their hands-hooks.

Without going into details, not without interest for readers who are not prone to hypocrisy, but requiring a lot of space for description, we summarize:

• Small details, especially colorful ones, are unacceptable: they create a subconscious feeling of anxiety that knocks down the work of the intestines.
• You should also avoid bright, saturated and flashy tones in color scheme; pastel colors are preferred.
• The overall tone should "cold" from the bottom up, losing at the same time juiciness.
• One-piece vertical planes that create an impression open space are also undesirable.
• The walls should be divided vertically into two sections: from the floor to the level of the eyes or chin of the inmate and above - to the ceiling.
• Dense overhead planes also have a bad effect on physiology.

Note: pastel colors are also good because the inevitable change in color tone in the toilet (see below) is not so noticeable in them.

Based on this, the physiologically justified color design of the toilet looks something like this:

1. The floor is rather dark, yellowish, brownish or grayish.
2. Walls to a height of 90-120 cm (3-4 rows of tiles 30x30 cm) - desaturated red-brown with specks or very light gray, also with specks.
3. The walls are higher and up to the ceiling - beige, mustard, cream, etc. It is possible with a flat relief or a faded blurry pattern.
4. Ceiling - pale blue, pale cream or pearl gray.

materials

When choosing materials for repairing a toilet, you need to consider the following:

• A lot is spilled on the floor in the toilet in exceptional cases, but what is spilled even in negligible amounts is saturated with BAS (biologically active substances) and very active chemical compounds.
• Compared to the bathroom, a little evaporates into the air in the toilet, but most of the fumes are chemically active, strongly and unpleasantly smelling substances: ammonia, unsaturated and cyclic hydrocarbons, etc.

Such circumstances impose certain restrictions on the selection of materials:

1. Any wood and products based on it (MDF, laminate) should be discarded - they are porous and organic. The fact that small splashes from a silly child or a guest who has had a hard time are immediately absorbed is only good at first glance. In fact, pleasant to the touch and pleasing to the eye, a teak, yew or cork floor will quickly become a haven for germs. They do not spray on the ceiling, but the vapors rise first of all towards it.
2. Also undesirable tile based on ordinary silicates (not white from the inside). Chemically, it is neutral, but it has a lot of micropores, and it absorbs odors and keeps it well. You will have to use deodorant more often, but it costs money and is not natural integral part air.
3. Washable PVC wallpaper should be treated with care, because of the filler. It can also absorb volatile compounds. You should buy either certified or from a trusted manufacturer.
4. An ordinary floor screed is also undesirable, even with the addition of a polymer emulsion: its moisture absorption coefficient can reach 0.4% by volume. For the bathroom, this is more than good, but in the toilet it is not water with a small admixture of fragrant shampoo that gets on the floor.
5. Suspended ceiling Armstrong is excluded: it is highly porous, and even made from chemically unstable organic matter - paper production waste.
6. Any paper wallpaper, no matter how they modify it, for the same reason.
7. Any paints with organic pigment and filler: from the most insignificant miasma, they very soon turn yellow, gray and become completely vile.
8. Styrofoam ceiling panels - for the same reason.

Here are some tips for repairing a toilet:

• On the cladding - porcelain stoneware. Dense, chemically resistant and durable material is slightly more expensive than tiles. And the percentage of manufacturing defects is much lower than that of inexpensive tiles, so in general it comes out cheaper.
• Tiles - faience or another based on kaolin (white from the inside and with a shiny fine-grained break).
• Paints - on a mineral pigment and a filler from marble flour (microcalcite). Somewhat worse with filler from dolomite flour, but with skillful painting for 7-10 years, they are also enough.
• Washable wallpaper - their polypropylene, polyester or foam.
• Drywall - only moisture resistant, green.
• Drywall profiles - galvanized or aluminum.
• Plaster - any, but with mandatory impregnation with a roller after hardening with a primer on concrete deep penetration.
• Waterproofing - aquaizol or polyester.
• Floor screed - base and liquid polymer finishing.

Note: self-leveling floors were invented primarily for toilets, as a replacement for useless cement-sand screed anywhere in them. They are not cheap, but the toilet and consumption is small. If we take into account the backfill, selected sand, fittings, beacons, tools for concrete screed, but on a small area, the self-leveling floor comes out even cheaper.

Sewer replacement

Replacing the sewer in an apartment is a difficult job and. Here we only add a little: in front of the cross, it is advisable to insert a tee with a 32 mm branch pipe into the outlet from the bathroom and kitchen. When renovating a small toilet in panel house it is very useful, see the section on the arrangement of a washbasin in the Khrushchev toilet.

Room cleaning

Cleaning the toilet before repair is easier than the bathroom, but it has its own characteristics:

1. Before getting off the floor, carefully inspect the toilet mounts (assuming all plumbing is removed immediately). The laboriousness of work on the floor and the cost of them largely depend on their condition, see the section on repairing the floor.
2. Both the floor and the walls do not need to be dug up to bare masonry, slabs or ceilings: the bulk of the plaster and screed in the toilets, as a rule, do not deteriorate even in damp block Khrushchevs.
3. Tiles can be knocked down rough, without cleaning the floor to a smooth surface: with a self-leveling screed, small irregularities are insignificant.
4. paint and upper layer plaster from the ceiling and walls is dusty, but easy to clean off with a drill and a round metal brush. With some skill, you can then immediately paint, glue tiles and wallpaper.
5. The skill of cleaning with a brush is developed quite quickly, so it is better to start cleaning from the surfaces covered in the future with a sanitary cabinet: there the flaws will disappear forever.
6. At the end of the stripping, the walls and ceiling must be vacuumed and treated with a roller with a deep penetration primer on concrete. While you are messing with the floor, the walls and ceiling will be completely ready for painting, gluing and cladding.

Laying communications

If the toilet is being repaired in Khrushchev, then there is no choice regarding hydraulics and sewerage: they remain where they were. Mini washstand (which will be discussed later) special trouble does not require.

In the case when the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room allows you to install additional sanitary and hygienic devices, then the pipes for them will have to be hidden in the walls, otherwise they will spoil the whole view. The laying technology is the same as in the bathroom: solid brazed propylene on solid propylene fittings in strobes. At the end of the installation, the strobes are foamed. There are two features, as the Americans say, good and bad:

• It is not worth plastering the strobes in the walls: they will be perfectly glued with tiles.
• It is impossible to hide pipes in the floor or let them in a bunch in the corners, covering them with slopes: the first will create places for the accumulation of miasma, and the second, in addition, will be conspicuous and significantly reduce the floor area, which is not redundant anyway. So a hammer drill with a chisel on concrete will have to work hard.

If “replacement” is understood as taking off, painting and putting it back on, then remember: you need to paint only in a horizontal position, otherwise it will not do without streaks. Paint - the same as the others for the toilet. White, in order of preference - titanium, lead (do not be afraid, this is not free lead, they are not poisonous), zinc. The latter turn yellow from traces of ammonia in the air after 3-4 years; titanium ones are almost eternal.

Redecorating

Redecoration of the toilet assumes that the matter is limited to finishing and painting, and all plumbing fixtures remain in place. In this case, the decoration of the walls and ceiling does not differ from the one already described, and the floor is easier to handle:

• We remove the plinth.
• The perimeter of the room and the circumference of the riser (or the contour of the cross, if it is semi-recessed into the floor, are sealed with silicone.
• Option 1: pour a liquid polymer self-leveling floor with a layer of 10-15 mm onto the floor directly on the previous tile. Calculation of volume - according to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.
• Option 2: we lay marmoleum, having previously removed the toilet bowl. Cheaper, and rusted fasteners can be replaced. With serviceable fastenings on a sheet of marmoleum in places for bolts, we make cross-shaped cuts (this way you do not need to measure with jewelry accuracy), and after laying, the excess is cut off with a mounting knife.
• We put the plinth in place - it's ready.

Toilet BEFORE and AFTER cosmetic repairs without replacing communications

Toilet with a washstand in Khrushchev

Look again at the picture with the bathroom closet. Yes, there is a small washstand, and you can immediately wash your hands right there. But where to get one? AT railway wagons and then they cost more ... Do it yourself:

1. Spout - ready, goose, with the smallest possible extension.
2. Sink - a plastic reusable deep bowl with a narrow bottom and a top edge bent down. The choice is rich, the prices are inexpensive.
3. Water supply - metal-plastic pipes-henks, as in a sink in the kitchen from tees on pipes.
4. Outlet - 32 mm corrugation into a tee on the outlet from the bathroom with the kitchen (that's what it is for!).
5. Siphon - due to the bending of the corrugation.

The alternative is a miniature sink. But you have to look for it.

How do you make a shell out of a bowl? First, in the center of the bottom of the bowl we drill 4 holes of 4 mm each, inscribed in a circle with a diameter of 30 mm; this will be the grid. Then we cut out a round boss from plywood 12-18 mm: outer diameter - according to the diameter of the bottom of the bowl, excluding the collar; internal - 35 mm. We impregnate the boss with PVA emulsion. Then we glue the boss with AQUARIUM silicone glue to the bottom of the bowl and glue the corrugation into it with the same silicone.

Now it remains to cut holes in the sanitary cabinet shelf with a circular drill on stone (the cabinet is already tiled) for a bowl with a diameter along the upper diameter of the bowl; then it will lie with a bent edge on the shelf, and under the spout. The main thing is not to miscalculate with the markup: the water should flow a little away from the very center of the sink-bowl so that it does not splash on the grid.

And, finally, we fix the mini-sink with silicone, now it is already possible with a cheaper construction one. We put the corrugation into the sewer pipe, seal it with the same silicone. In the closet, we put a fixing nut on the spout handles, bring them out, attach it to the spout fittings, insert it into place, fix it with a nut - the mini-washstand is ready.

Note: do not glue the boss with construction silicone or superglue (cyanoacrylate glue). The first is not strong enough, and the joint on the second will fall apart in six months or a year.

Outcome

Do-it-yourself toilet repair can perform an intermediate level House master. Apart from significant savings money, this will give experience with which to take on.

Sewer and water pipes, couplings, meters, valves, faucets - all this will in no way add beauty and comfort to your toilet, as well as to the bathroom. This means that they need to be hidden in some way: an exception may be certain taste preferences, such as the loft style, which generally has such “delights” as open pipes, wiring, bare brick walls and unpainted or aged boards. But this is a rather specific style that has a limited circle of admirers, so we will figure out how to hide these pipes in the toilet after all.

And all this must be somehow hidden ...

Most often, several of the most common and practical ways of masking communications are used:

• false wall,
• box,
• locker,
• blinds (as a cabinet option),
• decor.

Of the options presented, pipes are most often hidden using a box or behind a false wall, so we will first consider these two methods.

If one of them is closer to you, you need to decide on the materials from which they will be made. Plastic panels and drywall are especially trusted: both of these materials have both advantages and disadvantages - for example, plastic is easier to install and does not need to be finished, while a drywall construction will make it possible to make the panel hiding the pipes almost indistinguishable from the rest of the walls, which, of course, well. Important note: drywall for use in the bathroom and toilet should be moisture resistant.

When mounting a box or a false wall, be sure to think over such an important node as access doors to control and measuring units (meters), valves, taps, places of possible leaks (as a rule, these are places of screw-threaded connections). There are two options for solving this “problem”: buy a special metal door of a suitable size or fool around with a hidden option when the door does not look different from its surrounding surfaces.

false wall

If pipes and other nodes are located near the plane of the wall, you can close the entire wall by mounting the frame from metal profile, which is sheathed with drywall (or plastic). When calculating the distance from a real wall to a decorative one, one should proceed from the rule according to which the distance between the pipes and the panel cannot be less than 3 centimeters! If conditions allow, make the total distance larger, and here's why: often in the part where there are no communications and the space "walks", it is used properly, equipping a niche in which you can place shelves, cabinets for various useful little things, household chemicals, stocks toilet paper etc.

Thus, the farther you place the false wall from the real one, the deeper the niche will turn out, but do not overdo it - free access to communications and their convenient maintenance are still more important!

for the material provided.

High-quality repair in the toilet provides attention to all details. Pipes, wiring confusion, check valves, counters and filters, without which communications in modern apartment, will not add beauty to freshly laid tiles or decorative panels. They just need to be hidden. The same desire may arise among the owners of toilets without fresh repairs in order to somehow ennoble this room. There are many options for masking pipes, and for each case you can choose the appropriate one.

locker

The easiest and proven method for decades is to hide the pipes in a locker. This is the most suitable option for toilets in which repairs are not planned in the near future. The locker is convenient in that pipes, meters and filters will always have free access for their maintenance and repair. In addition, there is a place to store household chemicals and hygiene products. The locker is placed above the toilet, in the place of the greatest accumulation of pipes and the passage of the sewer riser. The space under it up to the floor can be hidden behind a decorative screen.

Plumbing locker is easy to assemble with your own hands. First, its frame made of timber is attached to the walls on the corners and dowels. Between themselves, the segments of the beam are connected by self-tapping screws. The frame must have the shape of a parallelepiped, its edges must be strictly horizontal or vertical (checked by level), so that in the future there will be no problems with hanging doors or installing shelves. Vertical edges in 2-3 places are connected by horizontal segments of a beam, possibly of a smaller section. Shelves will be attached to them in the future. If the walls are curved, then it is necessary to use wedges and spacers, which can later be decorated with panels in the color of the walls.

Hinges are attached to the external vertical hinges and doors are hung. For them, you can use chipboard or laminated MDF, cut to size, with glued edges, or you can choose the right size doors for kitchen facades (they are sold separately in building supermarkets or stores like Ikea). Shelves are mounted inside, recesses for pipes are cut out in them with a jigsaw.

For a screen under the cabinet, a frame in the form of a simple rectangle is similarly attached. This design should be the height from the floor to the locker and fit snugly against the walls. They also make exactly the same frame and fix a sheet of plywood or chipboard with holes for pipes on it with screws or nails. The screen is connected to the frame with self-tapping screws in the upper part or with the help of metal plates and a screw connection, the second is easier to unscrew if you need to urgently remove the screen to access the pipes.

roller shutters

The locker is undoubtedly convenient, but in small toilet there may not even be room to open the doors. In such cases, you can cover the pipes with roller shutters. This is a modern and convenient option, although more expensive. Roller shutters can also be used during the overhaul of the toilet, choosing their color for tiles or plastic panels and closing niches with a boiler and other equipment with them. An additional plus is that they are locked, which means that dangerous cleaning products will be out of the reach of children.

A hole cannot be made in the roller shutters, therefore, under them, as well as under the cabinet, a screen is mounted, but at a small height, exactly to the level at which the pipes to the toilet go out. The roller shutters themselves are mounted under the ceiling, and the shaft on which they will be wound must be horizontal, only in this way they will not get stuck.

Stationary option

If the toilet has been renovated with the replacement of all pipes, then it makes sense to hide them behind a fixed box or drown them in the walls. To do this, you need to make sure that a number of requirements are met:

all connections are made qualitatively and tight,

in the event of an accident, communications should be accessible through a hatch,

a door or hatch is also installed in front of valves, meters and filters for their maintenance,

in areas to which access will be impossible, there should be a minimum of connections,

if a completely closed box or false wall is assumed, it is necessary to take care of the thermal insulation of the pipes in advance so that the condensate on them does not lead to mold.

Before tightly walling up the pipes, it is better to observe them for a while (a week or two), whether everything is tight, whether there are any leaks.

In the most common case, when the pipes are located vertically in one of the corners or run all together along the floor, they can be covered with a fixed box.

1. First, a frame is mounted from a bar or a metal profile, the choice of material depends on how the box will be finished in the future. All frame edges should be parallel to the floor or walls, unless a beveled or curved design is provided.


2. At the frame assembly stage, places are provided for hatches and contours of the appropriate size are made for them. Less than 15 * 15 cm they should not be made, since it is difficult to work through a small hole.


3. The frame is sheathed with sheets of drywall for self-tapping screws or plastic panels if the walls in the toilet are finished with them. For panels, you will have to install additional profiles, the same on which they are attached to the walls.


4. Tile or wallpaper is glued to the gypsum box, as well as to the rest of the walls in the toilet.


5. Holes for hatches are closed with plastic doors (sold standard sizes in plumbing stores).

If the box in the toilet is mounted from drywall, then moisture-resistant material is used, since condensation is difficult to avoid. Lined with tiles, this design looks attractive and does not stand out from the rest of the walls. However, in the event of an accident, the drywall box will have to be completely dismantled and then made from new material, while the plastic panel box can be disassembled and reassembled.

Our comfort is provided by engineering systems, and their component is pipelines, so pipes in our home are inevitable. But their appearance, even the new ones, only changed, is far from the most attractive. Therefore, there is a natural desire to hide them. We will talk about how to hide pipes in the toilet today - it is in this small room usually the most.

You can hide the pipes in the toilet in different ways, but most of the methods involve creating walls from different materials. If you have chosen this method, it is better to replace old pipes with new ones in advance - both plumbing and sewage. It’s definitely not worth hiding old communications behind the wall, it’s better then to choose a lightweight option that will provide access to pipes at any time.

How to make a drywall box

You can close the pipes in the toilet by making a drywall box. This is perhaps the most popular solution. This is because the technology is very plastic, you can hide pipes of any configuration. Another nice bonus is multiple finishing options: lay tiles on glue, level the surface with putty, then paint or paste wallpaper.

The pipe box in the toilet can be vertical or horizontal - this does not change the essence

Peculiarities

If you have chosen to close the pipes in the toilet, there are several points that you need to consider. The first - to all key nodes - counters, filters, etc. you need to have access. It is desirable that access to stopcocks be quick. There are several options:

• make one panel folding or turning (hinged);
• part of the panel can be removable, fastening with a pair of self-tapping screws and / or magnets;
• put a hatch (plastic or invisible hatch for tiling.

You can, of course, make the structure non-separable, but if necessary, you will have to break everything, then restore it, and problems happen even with new pipes.

The second - the tile, if you finish it, it is better to glue it on a special glue, and not put it on a mixture of cement and sand. A thinner layer of glue is required; its mass is less. Under such conditions, it will be easier to remove / lift the cover.

Work order

First, decide what your box will look like. It is advisable to plan everything so that it not only closes the pipes, but, if possible, also carries a functional load. For example, if the pipes run down along the wall on the right or left, which happens if it is installed in the toilet, the box can be made a little higher, and on it upper part put various necessary little things.

If you close the risers that run in one of the corners behind the toilet (the layout of standard Khrushchev toilets), it makes sense to close not only that corner, but to sew up the entire wall, making a locker out of it. Shelves can be open or closed (with or without doors), but in small apartments it is very comfortable.

Having decided on how your box will look like, markings are applied to the walls and floor. Then take galvanized drywall profiles. Down and on the sides there is a bearing profile - PN (UW) - without curved sidewalls. Since the structures are small, a profile of 50 * 40 mm is sufficient. A rack-mount profile goes to the jumpers - PS (CW) - its width is also 50 mm, and the depth, if desired, can be small.

Jumpers are cut to size (with scissors for metal) and fastened with self-tapping screws. With a small distance - up to 50 cm - one from each end is enough, with a larger beam, put two. The installation step of the racks is about 60 cm, the jumpers are approximately the same step. In the place where the door is attached (if provided), a reinforced double profile is placed.

The assembled frame is sheathed with drywall, cut to size. They are fixed with small self-tapping screws with a screw at the end (TEX 3.5 * 9.5 mm). Fasteners are installed around the perimeter and in places where jumpers / racks go, the step is 20 cm. When twisting, you need to make sure that the hat is a little buried in the drywall, but does not break through the cardboard.

After sheathing go Finishing work, and they depend on the chosen finish. For painting and wallpapering, the box is completely puttied; for laying tiles, only the screw heads are covered with putty.

What else can you make a box for pipes in the toilet

Not everyone likes to work with drywall and profiles for them. In this case, the frame can be assembled from dry wooden bars. If desired, they can (and in principle should) be treated with antibacterial compounds - so as not to rot.

Instead of drywall, you can use OSB, moisture-resistant plywood or flat asbestos-cement sheets. All these materials can hardly be called 100% environmentally friendly, but many people are more accustomed to working with them. All of them are moisture resistant, easy to process, so a good option. By the way, tiles fit perfectly on asbestos, better than on all other materials, including drywall.

Make the back wall in the toilet out of plastic

You can hide pipes in the toilet behind plastic panels. This way to close the pipes in the toilet is the cheapest, but also the most short-lived. The plastic is easily pressed through, so you have to be careful.

Now a little about aesthetics. If the wall decoration in the toilet is planned from the same plastic, then there are no problems at all - everything is in the same style. If the wall decoration is different, there are two ways out - find plastic panels that are similar in color or play on contrasts by adding a couple more details of the same color.

Very well chosen colors - exactly under the tile

It is easy to sheathe the pipes in the toilet with plastic panels. First, the frame is assembled, but already wooden. It is attached to the walls and floor with dowels. Since the design is small, it will hold on to nails perfectly, large loads are still not expected - plastic can only withstand very little weight.

To wooden frame fasten starting profiles for plastic panels, and segments of panels are inserted into them desired length. They have a thorn/groove type connection and are installed without gaps. The plastic is attached to the frame with staples and a construction stapler. To provide free access to pipes for repair or maintenance, doors are made of plastic in the box / wall. In this case, you can install factory-made plastic hatches - they are light and fit perfectly into the style of rooms finished with plastic panels. Those who don’t like this option can make the doors themselves by making the frame also from wooden planks and sheathing them separately with plastic. There is another option - to leave a few strips loose and, if necessary, remove them.

Finishing the box and the ceiling with one plastic is a good idea

When buying, choose wall plastic panels (there are also ceiling panels) - they have thicker walls, it is more difficult to push through. If you plan to use the upper surface of the box, it is better to lay a sheet of plywood (moisture resistant) under the plastic.

Roller shutters in the toilet

The easiest way to close the pipes in the toilet is to install plumbing shutters (blinds, shutters). This option is ideal if you need to cover all back wall. Guides are installed on the sides, a bobbin with slats is attached on top, that's all, the installation is over, you can use it.

The disadvantage of this option is the price of roller shutters. She bites. But at any time you can raise the roller shutter that covers the pipes, and you can repair it. There is another way to reduce the price - not to put the roller shutter from floor to ceiling, but to cover only the central part with it, where all the connections are.

Even if it is not necessary to close the entire wall, but only part of it, you can build a wall of plasterboard or wall foam blocks and attach roller shutters to this wall.

How else to hide the pipes in the toilet

AT small apartments every centimeter of the area counts and just like that to close at least some part of the room is a real luxury. Then you can close the pipes by making a utility closet. For this, narrow toilets in Khrushchev are ideal.

Planks are attached to the walls on both sides, and hinged doors are attached to them. Shelves are assembled in place. They can be made removable to provide access to pipes if necessary.

What are doors made of? The easiest option is from, but you can order them from. They will be made according to your size by the workshops that are engaged in the manufacture of furniture. If you also choose a color to match the main finish or make a cabinet of the same color as entrance doors, then you get a good interior.

At all budget way make the back wall in the toilet attractive - use horizontal or vertical blinds. There is no trouble with the installation at all, the only thing is that you need to find suitable size. Then nail the bar to the ceiling, and attach the blinds themselves to it.

Blinds in the toilet on the wall - inexpensive way hide pipes

When choosing, it is also important to guess the color - either match the tone, or use contrast. And by the way, plastic horizontal blinds will be more practical in this case - they do not bend if you accidentally touch them. In general, a good option in all respects.