In the case of replacing plumbing equipment such as a toilet bowl or a sewer riser, it is necessary to very carefully perform the procedure for caulking cast-iron pipes in the first place. With strict observance of all the rules for caulking or caulking connected sewer pipes, it is possible to do such work with your own hands.

The embossing is done in the following order

First, it is necessary to very carefully, without undue effort, tap the socket part of the sewer pipe with a hammer in order to avoid complete replacement of the riser section in case of cracking.
By slightly loosening the dismantled pipe, it is necessary to make sure that the bell can move and rotate freely on the sides and can be gradually released from the chasing with a cable. Now you can dismantle it in the following order:
in all directions it is necessary to loosen the socket;
gradually pull out the rope and pick it with a thin straight object with a screwdriver or some kind of rod;
the rope must be firmly grasped with pliers;
continue to slowly loosen it and gently pull the rope.

The ineffectual tapping and immobility of the bell indicate that the chasing was performed using a special sulfur filling. In this case, it is necessary to perform the direct burnout procedure according to the following scheme:

It is necessary to carefully heat the socket section of the cast-iron pipe in a circle with a blowtorch or gas burner, while you must not forget to continue loosening, unscrewing and tapping the socket part of the pipe;

After it has moved from the place of the old embedment, it is necessary to continue to loosen it with the help of some tool, an adjustable wrench, etc.
After dismantling, it is necessary to carefully clean with any cutting tool a knife, chisel or chisel. When cleaning, special attention should be paid to the socket seat, on which sealing rubber will subsequently be installed.
Place greased into the cleaned socket. Install the required assembly in the seal.

Coin options

In order to firmly and hermetically construct a sewer system from cast-iron pipelines and parts for it, it is imperative to provide for the correct option for sealing the resulting gap filling the void between the pipes, which is always shown when the inner socket part of the pipe is butt-joined with its outer surface part.
It should be noted that the choice of the necessary consumables, the appropriate special tools for sealing work and the amount of time spent depend on the method of sealing the connection of cast-iron pipes. It is proposed to consider the currently existing two options for caulking cast iron joints.
1. The first option is the use of cement mortar

The procedure for sealing pipe joints with cement mortar consists of the following steps:
In the resulting gap between the pipes, it is necessary to lay a special tarred sealant. To make such a gasket, a conventional tourniquet pre-tarred in a special solution is used, which is driven into the gap formed between the pipe and the socket to a depth equal to 2/3 of the gap space. After creating the first sealing ring, it is necessary to put the end of the rope (tow) on top of this ring so that it does not end up inside the pipe being installed.
Next, it is necessary to seal the remaining part of the depth of the gap (1/3 of the remaining space) between the pipes with the prepared mortar from cement, already compacted with a tarred tourniquet in front of this. In order to increase the density and reliability of the caulking of the joints, it is required to use a special coinage together with a hammer, with which it is necessary to carefully tamp the cement mortar. The moment of the end of caulking is considered to be the beginning of rebounds of the caulking from the clogged cement seal. In order to obtain a high-quality setting of the cement mortar, it is necessary to cover the compacted area with a wet cloth, for example, gauze.
In order to prepare a cement mortar, you will need to purchase cement grade 300400. It must be mixed with water in a ratio of 9/1.
You can increase the speed of work when caulking with the help of special tools such as broadened caulking and caulking. At the same time, the entire process is accelerated by 30%.
If the work is carried out in winter at low ambient temperatures, then the cement mortar in this case must be kneaded in heated water, and it is also necessary to perform temporary insulation of the pipe joint sealed with cement.

2. The second option is the use of asbestos cement

This process is slightly different from the previous one and has its own procedure:
It is necessary to knead the asbestos fiber in a dry state with cement in a ratio of 1/2, respectively;
The collected dry mix should be kneaded in water before being used as a seal between pipes. The volume of water in the solution should be about 1012% of the total volume of the prepared mixture.
The process of caulking the gap between the pipes is carried out in a similar way in accordance with the established procedure for the first option for sealing the joints.

Such a procedure as chasing or chasing connections between has its own difficulties and difficulties with its own nuances and tricks. Therefore, in order to achieve a positive result with such laborious work, it is recommended to seek help from knowledgeable and experienced professionals. In this case, there is a guarantee that you can get rid of unnecessary hassle and costs during an unplanned replacement of risers as a result of, for example, unsuccessful tapping of the socket part of the sewer pipe with a hammer.

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How to caulk a cast-iron pipe?

Boris Natanovich, Omsk asks a question:

Hello. In my apartment in the toilet, an old cast-iron pipe is leaking under the toilet. I want to solve this problem myself. Therefore, I appeal to those who know and can tell in detail how to mint a cast-iron pipe. How to mint it, I have a rough idea. I've been involved in this type of work before. But how you can mint, I have absolutely no idea. While there is time, I want to do this laborious process. Therefore, I am waiting for various recommendations with different ways of caulking cast iron pipes so that I can start working. Thanks in advance to everyone who will answer my question.

The expert answers:

Before you start chasing cast iron pipes, you need to choose the method that suits you.

The caulking of cast-iron pipes, which accompanies the change of a toilet bowl or a riser, involves caulking a pipe, which is performed as carefully as possible. The slicing procedure is as follows:

How to emboss a cast iron pipe?

1. First of all, the bell at the pipe is tapped with a slight effort of the hammer, trying to exclude its split, so that the riser does not have to be changed completely.
2. Feeling the free movement of the bell and that it can be freed from chasing with a cable, proceed to dismantling:

• loosen the socket in different directions;
• pick up with a screwdriver and pull the rope a little;
• firmly grasp the rope with pliers;
• without haste, they try to pull out the rope, while continuing to loosen the pipe.

1. If the tapping did not give results, the bell remains motionless, which means that the caulking was done by filling with sulfur. The burning method is used for the latter:

• by means of a burner or a soldering lamp, the cast iron is heated in a circle, trying not to harm the pipe, at the same time they are tapping with a hammer;
• if the bell moves a little from a place, it is loosened in different directions with an adjustable wrench.

1. After the successful release of the bell, it is cleaned using a chisel or chisel. With special care, the socket saddle is cleaned, on which rubber will be put on for sealing.
2. The sealing rubber ring is coated with a special lubricant, and then inserted into the socket.
3. Mount the new element in the seal.

Cast iron pipe caulking technology

When assembling a system represented by cast iron pipes, it is worth deciding in advance on the option of filling voids that necessarily occur during installation between the outer surface on the pipe and inside - on the socket. In other words, you should choose a method of how to mint cast-iron pipes in this case. In practice, two options are used, which we will consider.

Method 1: grouting

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. The installation of a resin sealant is carried out: the resin bundle is tamped into the hole of the socket and pipe at 2/3 of the depth. When the first ring of rope is formed, the end of the bundle is overlapped on top of the ring to prevent it from penetrating into the pipe.
2. Pouring cement content.

Cement grade 300-400 is mixed with water in a ratio of 9 to 1. The space free from the tourniquet (1/3 of the volume) in the socket is poured with a cement composition. The solution is minted as tightly as possible by caulking with a hammer until the caulking begins to bounce off the cement sealant. For a better setting of the cement, it is covered with a moistened cloth.

Tip: Broadened chasing and caulking will help increase productivity, which speeds up the procedure by as much as 30%. When performing work in winter, cement is kneaded in hot water, and after sealing the joints with it, mandatory insulation is carried out.

Method 2: embedding with asbestos cement

This procedure has some differences:

• in dry form, asbestos fiber and cement are kneaded, respectively, 1 to 2;
• immediately before use, the dry mixture is poured with water, the latter should be 10-12% of the total volume of the mixture.

The very procedure of chasing is performed by analogy with the first method.

That's all the subtleties of such a laborious process called chasing / chasing. Naturally, the best results in work can be achieved when professionals get down to business. Therefore, it is better to entrust the work to specialists. And then you definitely won’t have to redo everything, getting rid of old flaws.

Cast iron is a high strength material with a lot of weight. From it, objects are usually made that are required to withstand heavy loads, as well as elements for arranging the sewerage and water supply systems. Chasing pipes is not an easy job, and therefore, in order to avoid costly and complex repairs, it is recommended that facilities be regularly inspected for deformations.

In what cases is chasing performed?

This work is justified when it is necessary to replace a damaged cast-iron element of the system. It is also carried out in the case when the deformation cannot be corrected at the accident site. Damage to cast iron pipes is a fairly common problem, despite their increased strength. This material is very sensitive to water, chemical processes, temperature changes. As a result, the elements of the system cease to withstand the previous loads, and a decision has to be made on repair work.

If a crack has formed in the pipe, measures must be taken without delay, otherwise a small problem can lead to an emergency. Patching cracks with special solutions is only a temporary measure, so it is better to immediately pay attention to more reliable methods.

Training

Correct chasing

First of all, it is required to inspect the place of work, the pipes themselves. In this case, you need to see how they are connected to each other. The fact is that it is not always possible to do chasing with your own hands without disconnecting the pipes.

The problem arises if the cast-iron elements are located in the ground and during installation were filled with a composition that promotes gluing. The difficulty lies in the fact that often the structural elements grow together with each other so firmly that they can be separated only with the help of additional tools. Usually, a gas cleaver is used in this capacity, which contributes to the effective removal of the bonding solution.

It may be necessary to turn off the water in the entire house during repairs. If repairs are made on an important site, this may entail turning off the water in the entire area. Preparation for caulking is carried out using the following tools:

• Bulgarian. Required for cutting the deformed area;
• New piping element. Installed to replace the damaged one;
• Construction bandage and cement mortar. Needed to close the seam.

How is chasing done?

Repair work on repairing cast-iron pipes should be done very carefully. It is better to entrust this important matter to professionals, but if you still decide to do the chasing with your own hands, the following instructions will help you:

Now you know how to do-it-yourself cast-iron pipes. If something remains unclear to you, on our website you can always see a photo that shows the described repair work. A video has also been published, from which you will learn how professional caulking of cast-iron pipes is performed.

The main advantage of cast iron is durability, its main disadvantage is brittleness. These two features must be taken into account when maintaining and repairing cast iron pressure pipes.
The brittleness of cast iron imposes certain requirements on the connection of cast iron pipes. On the one hand, it must be strong and tight, and on the other hand, it must be sufficiently elastic. The fact is that pipes laid in the ground do not lie motionless. The soils are also characterized by shrinkage and blurring. When freezing, the water in the ground expands. All this leads to the movement of the ground. The pipe, as they say, "walks". Traditionally this problem is solved chasing pipes- connecting pipes in such a way that there is a margin of elasticity at the joints.
The smooth end of one pipe is inserted into the socket of the other. A small 3-5 mm gap remains at the junction, which is caulked with a resin strand (kabolka) two-thirds of the depth. The strand is a thin rope, which is inserted into the gap in layers. After each turn, the strand is compacted with a caulk - a special tool. Such a connection allows you to connect the pipe hermetically, but with a margin of elasticity.
To increase the strength of the joint, the remaining third of the gap is cemented or filled with lead. The second option is more reliable and preferable, because. connections in pressure pipes experience significant loads. Both procedures are quite complex and time-consuming. Cement behaves capriciously at high or low humidity, work with the melting of lead requires dexterity and additional preparations.
More advanced methods of connecting cast-iron pressure pipes are currently being used. For example, a socket with a rubber sealing ring and a socket-screw connection. But these compounds began to be used relatively recently. Recall that the advantage of cast iron is durability. The service life of cast iron pressure pipes is more than a hundred years. And, therefore, pipelines made according to old technologies are still actively exploited.
Chasing socket connection can be safely called the weakest point of the cast-iron pipeline. Under the influence of moisture, temperature changes and soil movement for decades, the coinage is destroyed. Typically, accidents caused destruction of coinage, are eliminated for a long time. Procedure minting time-consuming, requiring a certain skill. But even high qualification does not guarantee the absence of marriage. The liquidation of an accident is often carried out in difficult conditions: low temperatures, difficult access to the damaged area, watering of the pit, humidity that prevents the solution from hardening. Fussing with molten lead in such conditions is generally more like a repairman's nightmare. Alas, this dream often comes true. It is almost impossible to perform high-quality coinage during the liquidation of a complex accident.
Our company's product range includes a special type of fittings that can significantly reduce the time required to eliminate this type of accident and improve the quality of repair work on a cast-iron pipeline. This is a socket sealer DZ. With him, all work comes down to installing the product on the socket connection and fixing it with a conventional wrench. The rubber gasket securely seals the joint, without depriving it of the necessary elasticity, and the design itself firmly fixes the joint. Work can be carried out even without completely shutting off the pressure, but only by lowering it so that the leak does not interfere with the repair team. The reliability of the connection of cast-iron pressure pipes with the help of a socket joint sealer is several times higher than the reliability of traditional caulking. And, therefore, once the work is done, the problem will be eliminated once and for all.

Almost all Soviet buildings are equipped with cast-iron sewer communications, since such pipes are durable and resistant to wear. But the cast iron pipeline requires the right approach to use and dismantling.

Unlike drain pipes, which can last for decades, connections inside a home may need to be replaced sooner. Also, interventions in the sewer system may be forced during the installation of washing equipment or redevelopment of the bathroom. To do it according to the rules, it is not necessary to call and wait for the master, all the work can be mastered by the owner himself, if he knows how to handle elementary tools. Dismantling the sewer should not take much time, but dismantling old products is more difficult. Let's figure out how to properly dismantle cast iron pipes.

Step-by-step caulking of cast-iron pipes

In the process of repairing sewer communications with your own hands, the most difficult moment may be caulking a cast-iron pipe. Such manipulation may be required when repairing or reinstalling the riser. In this case, it is necessary to very carefully emboss the pipes of the cast-iron pipes. Step by step, this work can be done like this:

1. First, use a hammer to lightly tap the socket, while being careful not to break it, since carelessness can lead to irreversible consequences, for example, replacing the entire riser. It is better to use a wooden mallet.
2. If the previous blockage was made with the help of a cable, then after tapping the socket should wobble freely and can be removed without additional effort. In such a case, do the following:
   • swing the bell from side to side;
   • pry with a screwdriver and pull the rope a little;
   • hook it with pliers;
   • slowly and carefully pull out the rope, swinging the pipe in the process.
3. If, after tapping, the pipe did not start moving, it means that the previous caulking of the sockets of sewer pipes was carried out by pouring sulfur. In this option, you will need to get rid of it by burning it. To do this, proceed as follows:
   • gently heat the pipe at the joint along the entire diameter with a blowtorch or burner;
   • lightly, trying not to break the walls of the pipe, then tap it with a hammer;
   • if the bell starts to wobble, try moving it using an adjustable wrench.

   Please note that when working with a burner and sulfur, it is imperative to protect the respiratory tract with a mask so as not to get poisoned by toxic fumes.

4. After successful dismantling, the walls of the socket must be well cleaned with a chisel and chisel. Pay special attention to the bell seat, as this is where you will place the sealing rubber.
5. Having previously coated the rubber seal with a special lubricant, place it in the socket.
6. Place a new structural element in the rubber ring.

Precautions in repairing cast iron pipes

When working with such pipes, be sure to remember that cast iron is a relatively brittle material with its endurance. If you hit the metal hammer hard or too hard, the wall will vibrate, which may cause cracks. If this happens, the replacement of damaged sections will be long and expensive. Therefore, when preparing for dismantling, stock up on the necessary tools in advance.

Don't work alone, it is unsafe and difficult. Better call someone for help.

It's important to know that sulfur fumes can be harmful to health, so use a gas mask, in extreme cases, a respirator and goggles. Also take care of good air circulation in the room where the repair work is taking place.

After removing the pipe from the socket, take the time and attention to clean the seat of this part. So you will ensure the installation of the sealing material without defects and distortions.

Immediately pack all dismantled material and garbage into construction bags, tie and throw away. An unpleasant smell will come from the old pipeline.

If you are caulking cast iron pipes for the first time and after reading this article, you still do not understand how to do it, be sure to contact a professional. For an experienced craftsman, the process of dismantling cast iron pipes will take 25-30 minutes, while a beginner can spend more than 3 hours and with an unknown result.

Since chasing cast iron pipes is a very laborious job, as any specialist will tell you, it is wiser to carry out preventive inspections than to wait until a large-scale repair of the sewer system is required. Since cast iron is still mainly used for external sewer networks as the main material for pipes, which cannot be completely replaced by modern plastic counterparts, prevention should be treated with all due attention. In our article, we will focus on two types of repair work - caulking and caulking of cast iron pipes.

Chasing cast iron pipes

Preparation for repair

Sometimes it becomes necessary to repair some part of the sewerage system. However, such repairs can not always be made without disconnecting the pipes. When it is required to replace a pipeline section, you should first inspect the place of future work in order to determine how the pipes were connected to each other at one time.

Often the main difficulty is that pipes, especially those located in the ground, are filled with a special compound that prevents them from separating. In this case, the question arises of how to emboss a cast-iron pipe without much effort and time.

It is possible to quickly disconnect the pipes by using a gas cutter to remove the composition, which fastens the elements of the system.

Pipe chasing technology

Do-it-yourself caulking of cast-iron pipes, carried out when replacing a riser or changing a toilet bowl, can create no less of a problem. In this case, it becomes necessary to caulk the branch pipe of the cast-iron pipe as accurately as possible. The embossing process looks like this:

1. The first action to be taken is to tap the socket of the pipe with a hammer, being careful not to split it, in order to avoid a complete replacement of the riser.
2. After making sure that the bell moves quite freely and can be released without any problems, since it was caulked with a heel, you can start dismantling:
   • slightly loosen the bell from side to side;
   • pry with a screwdriver and pull the rope a little;
   • firmly grab the rope with pliers;
   • gently, slowly, pull out the rope, while continuing to loosen the tube.

1. In the case when the bell does not budge after tapping, that is, the caulking of cast-iron pipes was carried out by pouring sulfur, you will have to use the method of burning it out:
   • carefully heat the pipe in a circle with a blowtorch or burner;
   • trying not to damage the pipe, continue gently tapping the pipe with a hammer;
   • when the bell starts to move, slightly loosen it from side to side with an adjustable wrench.

When performing an operation to burn sulfur, it is imperative to wear a respirator so as not to be poisoned by harmful fumes.

1. After the bell is safely released, it must be cleaned using a chisel or chisel. Particular care should be taken to clean the socket seat, where the sealing rubber will be placed.
2. Coat the rubber seal with special grease and insert into the socket.
3. Install a new part in the seal.

Chasing pipes

When assembling a system consisting of cast-iron pipes, it is necessary to foresee a method for closing the gaps that remain invariably between the outer side of the inserted part of the pipe and the inner surface of the socket. That is, you should think about how to mint cast-iron pipes. There are two ways to solve the problem, let's consider them in more detail.

Sealing of sockets with cement mixture

The chasing technology looks like this:

1. Resin seal installation.

• caulk the resin tourniquet into the socket up to 2/3 of its depth;
• when forming the first rope ring, wrap the end of the bundle over the ring so that it does not fall into the pipe.

1. The use of cement mortar.

• mix cement marking 300-400 with water (by weight) in a ratio of 9:1;
• the place remaining after compaction of the bundle in the socket should be filled with cement mortar;
• firmly strike the cement with a chasing and a hammer until the chasing rebounds from the cement;
• for a better setting of the solution after caulking, cover it with a wet rag.

To increase work productivity, it is worth using broadened caulking and embossing, which allows you to speed up the process by about 30%.

If work is carried out in winter, cement should be mixed with hot water, and the joints must be insulated after sealing.

Sealing of sockets with asbestos cement

Another way to caulk a cast-iron pipe is to use an asbestos-cement mixture. The process has two differences:

1. A dry mixture of asbestos fiber and cement is prepared by mixing them in a ratio of 1:2.
2. Before direct use, the dry mixture is moistened with water: from 10 to 12% of the initial mass of the mixture.

The chasing technology itself looks similar to the first method.

On this, a rather laborious work - chasing and / or chasing cast-iron pipes - is completed. To achieve the best result, however, such work should be entrusted to qualified specialists. Only in this case, you can be sure that everything will be done correctly, and you will not have to deal with more complex repairs, eliminating the flaws of poor-quality installation or dismantling.

Do-it-yourself installation of sewer pipes requires the contractor to fully comply with the rules of construction work and standards. In most cases, these issues have already been resolved for multi-apartment buildings, so this process is relevant for private houses and cottages. It is for this reason that owners need to know all the nuances of building a drainage system. In our article we will find out how to make a sewer with our own hands.

It is necessary to install water pipes from the drawing up of communication laying diagrams. The photo should indicate and indicate all the components of the structure: the dimensions of the elements, the location of the fittings, the lines of the system. In practice, most plumbing fixtures are connected to one riser, but if the room is large, it is better to connect to several points.

When the question arises of installing a sewer system, you can start from the photo of the previous wiring diagram in the building. It is worth considering that if a cast-iron pipe is replaced with a plastic one, then it is impossible to focus on the old system.

Attention! With a large number of storeys of the building, it is rational to place the plumbing units one under the other.

When performing repair work, it is enough to make a schematic drawing of the adjustable system. But, if sewage installation is being carried out, then it is impossible to do without drawing up a project. This norm is necessary due to the existence of an internal and external design of the drainage system. Plus, most cases also involve the installation of a cleaning device.

Work materials

For such types of work, the requirements of SNiP provide for the installation of the following types of pipes:

• cast iron;
• ceramic;
• Asbestos-cement;
• ceramic;
• Plastic.

Most often, polyethylene materials are used, which correspond to GOST 22689.0-89 and 22689.2-89, and have a diameter of 40 to 110 mm. A feature of plastic pipes is resistance to aggressive environmental influences and corrosion. Such devices are connected using sockets, and rubber cuffs are used for sealing.

Basic rules of the installation process

Before proceeding with the installation work on the sewer, you should familiarize yourself with the basic requirements for the process. This is necessary to create an optimal drainage system in the house. For this reason, it is very important to do everything correctly and accurately.

Sizes of diameters and slopes of pipes

Since most situations involve the creation of a system with gravity, it becomes very important to choose the diameter and slope of the pipes correctly. The functioning of the sewer will depend on this process. The size of the pipe dimensions is affected by the type of plumbing fixtures, as well as their number in the building. Generally speaking, the main factor is the photo installation diagram. So here are some recommendations:

• It is better to insert a pipe diameter into the washbasin system - 4 cm;
• For bathroom and kitchen - 5 cm;
• For a riser that does not have a connection to the toilet - 8.5 cm;
• For a riser with a connected toilet - 10 cm

Attention! The pipe must be directed to the riser from the apparatus. It is worth noting that its dimensions should be 2-15 cm per meter.

Dismantling the old wiring

Before mounting a new system, you need to remove the elements of the old layout. It is worth noting that this process can be quite a difficult job, especially for old-timers' houses. In order to speed up and facilitate the procedure, it is necessary to think about dismantling in advance.

Required Tools

To install the sewer with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

• Special grinder or hacksaw;
• Drill apparatus;
• Screwdriver.

It is right to start all work from the bathroom and the most distant places of pipelines. Before starting the process, it is necessary to check whether all the necessary materials and tools are available. In addition, we advise you to perform pipe diagnostics to determine if there are any deformations and damages on them.

Preparatory stages of installation

Preparation for installation includes the following steps:

• We check and adjust all connection points. We mark on the pipes the depths of the occurrences of the sockets.
• Next, the chasing and cutting of pipes is performed;

Attention! The caulking of the pipeline occurs at an angle of 90 degrees. It should be noted that the cut should not have deformations or distortions.

• The points of the cut pipes should be correctly checked for burrs, as their presence on the part will affect the sealing of the joints and lead to the accumulation of debris and blockages. You need to fix this situation with a file.
• Before assembling the system, it is necessary to clean the extreme parts of the pipes and the rubber seals. Failure to comply with this norm will reduce the quality of the connection.

If you focus on the standard photo, the sewerage scheme in the premises, then it provides that the pipe wiring is carried out along three lines of the system:

• The device of the first highway is the line with the shortest length, which should not exceed 1 meter. In this branch, it is necessary to mint a toilet bowl and other plumbing fixtures in the house.
• The second line includes bathroom appliances and equipment, namely a washbasin, shower, washing machine.
• The third branch is the drainage line from the kitchen.

Attention! The length of the second and third branches should be less than three meters. For this reason, if the building has a large volume, then it is necessary to insert the lines into at least two risers.

The main sewer lines have several branches that go to each type of plumbing. Each line at the end provides for the installation of a siphon. A water lock is a necessary element of any system that forms a cork from the water, which prevents gases from escaping from the sewer. In most cases, such an apparatus does not exist in the installation of a washing machine, since its system has a check valve.

Chasing cast iron pipes

Sometimes there are situations when there is a need to perform repairs for a separate part of the sewer system. It should be noted that the process does not always occur without disconnection of the pipeline. To start minting pipes, you need to inspect the place of future work.

The main problem is that the pipes that are in the ground are filled with a special substance, which strengthens the fastening. Therefore, the question arises, how is the chasing of cast-iron pipelines performed? This is what we are now trying to find out. It is enough to simply destroy the connection using a gas cutter.

Pipe chasing technology

Difficulty can also arise when chasing cast-iron or plastic pipes, which occurs when replacing a riser or toilet bowl. For the correctness of the action, you need to very carefully mint the pipe pipe. This action includes several steps:

• The first thing we need to do is to tap the bell with a hammer so as not to damage it;
• If the bell moves quietly and can be easily dismantled, which means that the caulking was carried out with a cable.
• Then you can start dismantling - loosen the bell, pry with a screwdriver and pull the cord a little. Then gently pull out the rope with pliers.

If the bell is motionless when tapped, this means that the chasing was done with sulfur. In this situation, you need to use the burning technology:

• Carefully perform heating of the pipeline around the circumference with a burner or blowtorch;
• Avoiding damage, carefully tap the pipeline with a hammer;
• When the bell is movable, you can loosen it with an adjustable tool.

Attention! When performing work, it is necessary to use a respirator to avoid inhalation of sulfur.

• After releasing the bell, we clean it with a chisel;
• We cover the sealing ring with a special solution, and insert it into the socket;
• We mount a new part in the seal.

Installation of plastic sewer pipes

Installing plastic sewer pipes is a little different from other types. For this reason, we provide some tips on how to mint them:

• There are two ways to cut a plastic pipe. It is worth noting that the saw for such work should have small teeth. Also, this task can be performed using a two-handed cable.
• Do not leave burrs, which very often appear when cutting plastic products.
• We carry out cleaning and gluing of materials. First, you need to perform a dry assembly, and then you can start gluing the system. To do this, we make marks, and then we connect the structural elements with glue.
• We assemble the sewerage pipeline system.
• We fill in all the empty spaces.
• We install a plastic pipe for ventilation. The connection must be made with copper material.
• Plastic pipes are used for connections of high complexity. The strength of the tightness of the structure is provided by couplings without a socket.
• We strengthen the risers. To do this, use metal lining - this element will protect against accidental hits of small parts, such as nails or screws.

So, we found out that installing a sewer is quite simple. The article presents two options for completing the process - a design with cast iron and plastic pipes. The main requirement for installation is compliance with the rules and regulations that are regulated by SNiP and Gost RF. So, study the legislative base and construction and sanitary conditions, and then you will be able to install a sewage disposal system in your own house or apartment correctly.

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Not all users know how to mint a cast-iron sewer pipe. Moreover, not everyone understands what is at stake. However, during the assembly or reconstruction of the sewer system, the ability to correctly caulk pipe joints is very useful.

In many houses, old cast-iron pipelines are still preserved, which it is not advisable to completely change to modern plastic. The pipes are still strong, able to work for decades. As a rule, they are left intact, replacing only apartment horizontal wiring sections. Consider how the connection of cast-iron pipes is made during the installation of drainage systems.

Features of cast iron pipes

Cast iron pipes were used everywhere in Soviet times. Alternative materials for manufacturing were used on a limited scale, for the assembly of special . The properties of cast iron pipelines allow the old system to still work. The advantages of these pipelines:

• strength;
• long service life;
• resistance to temperature changes;
• ability to work with aggressive liquids.

The disadvantages are:

• tendency to corrosion;
• big weight;
• fragility, inability to withstand sharp blows;
• assembly complexity.

The most significant drawback is the complicated connection procedure, or chasing of cast-iron sewer pipes. In combination with the heavy weight of the parts that create a significant load on the supporting structures, such drainage lines were difficult to install and maintain. However, the durability and reliability of cast iron systems is appreciated by experts. All networks, the condition of which does not inspire concern, are still effectively used for wastewater disposal.

Connection methods

The assembly of cast iron pipelines is a complex and responsible task. There are several types of connections:

• into the socket This is the most popular type, which is called "chasing sewer pipes." The process requires accuracy and experience, exact observance of technology requirements. Proper caulking withstands several decades of exploitation of leak postures;
• coupling connection. This option is used for socketless pipes. Special couplings are used that tightly wrap around the edges of the connected elements. The build quality is high, no special experience and skills are required to perform the work. However, there are not always necessary conditions for installing a coupling.

There are couplings that are not equipped with threaded clamps. They are two sockets into which the ends of the connected elements are inserted. The assembly of such lines also requires embossing of sewer pipes, performed according to standard technology.

The procedure consists in filling the socket gap with a sealant, and sealing with hardening compounds. As a sealant, a tarred hemp strand is most often used, which is stuffed into 2/3 of the socket and carefully compacted. Then the remaining third is filled with a durable protective compound. To do this, use cement, plumbing sulfur. In pressure lines, lead chasing is sometimes used, the procedure is complex, but very effective.

How to chisel a bell

During repair work, reconstruction or expansion of the drainage system, it often becomes necessary to connect different lines. Before you mint a sewer pipe, you often have to disassemble the old, defective connection. It is extremely difficult to strike a bell, which over the years has been overgrown with monolithic layers. The main problem is the danger of destroying the socket of an entire pipe or tee. If this happens, you will have to disassemble and change the entire riser or horizontal pipeline.

Before you chisel out the old cast-iron sewer, it is necessary to clean the connecting element, remove all foreign objects and layers. As a rule, various temporary patches of paint, additional layers of mortar, and other materials are applied over the standard connection. All such areas are subject to complete removal.

After that, it is necessary to determine what material the insulating seal is made of, since cement is much easier to mint a cast-iron sewer than sulfur. If a cement mortar is used, the process of disassembling the connection will be easier. However, if plumbing sulfur was used, the procedure will be complicated. The material will have to be heated with a gas burner or a blowtorch, since it will not be possible to simply break and remove particles from the gap - sulfur has high strength and viscosity. You will have to work in a gas mask, because when heated, toxic gases will be released.

Procedure

In order to chisel, you must first remove the cement or sulfur filling (1/3 of the socket depth), and then remove the hemp strand (2/3 of the depth). The first stage requires caution and accuracy. There is a high risk of breaking the socket of a tee or other receiving element. First, they act with a chisel, then with a screwdriver with a long thin sting. With gentle hammer blows, the screwdriver is immersed in the gap, breaking off small pieces of the seal.

Many sources recommend first tapping the socket around the circumference with a hammer, and then checking to see if the pipeline has any mobility. This is useless advice, since it is impossible to mint a cast-iron sewer in this way. Until the top layer of cement or sulfur is removed, it will not be possible to swing the pipe. In addition, hammer blows can break the socket, which will significantly increase the amount of work.

When the hard plug is removed, the connection will gain mobility. It is shifted a little to the side, the rope is picked up and pulled out, swinging the pipe to the sides to facilitate the process. After that, the socket will be completely released, the connecting element can be easily removed.

How to mint

Caulking is a procedure for sealing, sealing a connecting element. It is necessary to prepare materials, tools:

• oiled rope (hemp strand);
• cement (or asbestos-cement) mortar;
• a wooden spatula freely entering the gap of the socket;
• long screwdriver;
• a hammer.

The caulking of sockets of sewer pipes takes place in 2 stages:

• stuffing the gap with tow or rope (bondage). Using a cord is considered a more efficient option. The sealant is inserted into the gap, they begin to wind it around the pipe, constantly ramming it with a spatula. The material must be compacted and immersed in the gap until it stops. The process is stopped when the gap is filled to 2/3 of the depth;
• cement mortar is poured over the sealant into the gap. It is pushed with a wooden spatula or a screwdriver, evenly distributing the material throughout the entire volume of the cavity. The quantity should be such that the entire gap is completely filled to the very top of the socket.

Chasing a bell with gray at home is not practiced. It is necessary to melt lump sulfur with 10-15% kaolin, which requires special equipment and enhanced ventilation. This method is possible only in the factory.

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