Do-it-yourself installation of facade plates. Facade panels: how to do the installation yourself

Facade panels are distinguished by all the seasonality of installation work: installation can be done in any weather, even at low temperatures. This feature is due to the fact that the installation is carried out using frame technology, mechanical fasteners. Let's consider the stages of work in more detail.

Lathing installation

Depending on the chosen cladding material, the crate is equipped:

1. Wooden frame for light panels (plastic, steel sheets).
2. For heavier façade slabs (for example, fiber cement), a frame is constructed from galvanized profiles or a profile pipe.

The frame is installed in the following sequence:

• Vertical guides are installed. The step between them must be maintained at 50–60 cm.
• Then horizontal strips are installed in the places of attachment of additional elements: external corners, J-profile and other details.

Advice! Between the slats of the frame, you can lay heat-insulating material for additional insulation of the facade of the house. It is best to use sheet materials based on expanded polystyrene or basalt wool slabs.

Installing the starting bar

After the frame is mounted, proceed to install the starting profile. Its installation facilitates the installation of the first row of panels and allows you to accurately maintain the horizontal. When installing the initial bar, you need to carefully check its evenness using the building level. Also, about 10 cm must be retreated from the corners of the house for the installation of external corner elements.

Panel mounting

An important rule for installing any facade panels is that installation is carried out from left to right. There are various ways to install finishing plates, which differ from the material of manufacture.

Consider the main options:

• PVC structures are attached using a construction stapler or small self-tapping screws and nails (on a wooden frame).
• Steel panels are attracted to the crate with metal screws.
• For the installation of most heavy structures, metal clamps are used. They are fastened to the frame with self-tapping screws.

Having finished the installation of facade panels, the installation of additional cladding elements is carried out:

• outer corners;
• installation of a J-profile for edging door and window openings;
• installation of a finishing strip to prevent rainwater from entering behind the skin.

All these additional elements give the cladding completeness and serve to create an aesthetic appearance.

Advice! For the installation of thermal panels in the installation of the frame, as a rule, there is no need. Such panels, due to the thick layer of elastic insulation, perfectly hide minor irregularities in the facade. Fastening is carried out using long self-tapping screws with plastic dowels directly to the outer walls of the house.

Installing panels is an excellent choice for cladding the facade of a house. In addition to the remarkable appearance, such plates allow you to insulate the house and reliably protect the walls from moisture. This facing material is very popular due to the ease and speed of the installation process, a huge range of textures and a variety of shades.

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Facade panels Unipan Chania

Facade panels Unipan (Chanyi) - products of Chinese manufacturers. The original name of the material - Chania - could not be registered, since there is a Greek city of the same name and confusion is possible.

In this situation, it was decided to rename the material. This is how the Unipan trademark appeared.

The material is a sandwich panel consisting of three main layers:

• Galvanized metal sheet.
• Polyurethane foam filler.
• Thermal waterproofing layer.

The production technology provides for the process of "hot melting" of the components - injection of liquid polyurethane foam between two outer layers. After hardening, a solidly interconnected block is obtained, which has a successful set of performance characteristics and allows you to easily and quickly mount the sheathing fabric.

The metal front layer has a relief corresponding to the texture of the imitated material - masonry or brickwork, etc. There are also smooth panels with photo printing.

The peculiarity of such panels is the connection method, which is absolutely similar to the principles of joining internal wall panels: one longitudinal edge is a ridge, and the opposite one is a groove. To connect, you just need to insert the crest of one panel into the groove of the other, which is accessible even to an absolutely unprepared person.

Ease of installation eliminates the possibility of errors, and the density of the connection creates an airtight canvas that is resistant to external moisture, rain or melt drops, and wind.

The surface has a relief that repeats the texture of stone or brickwork, wood paneling, etc. In addition, there are several color options to expand the choice and implementation of different design ideas.

Metal siding installation

Everything starts identically: materials are prepared, the future design is sketched out, installation is carried out. The profiles are installed in accordance with the drawn diagram at right angles to the base of the house in increments of 50 cm. The supporting profiles must be fixed with dowels.

Metal siding: mounting on an aluminum frame

Remove interfering elements from the facade of the building

After installing the vertical profiles, it is necessary to install transverse bulkheads. Here you will need to make paws on each side of the panel for attaching to the profile. There are ready-made frames right away, but such structures have a clear drawback - they must be attached directly to the walls of the house. If the wall is made of foam concrete, then such a frame may collapse. Also, the frame is not recommended to be installed on a silicate brick. Red brick walls are also not suitable for a finished frame. In addition, such designs are more expensive than self-installed.

Installation of vertical racks in a horizontal profile

Alignment of the metal frame vertically and horizontally

We put additional vertical racks under the siding (based on the recommended dimensions of 40-60 cm)

The most common fastening of metal profiles with each other

siding frame

After the bulkheads have been installed, various kinds of insulation can be inserted into the resulting rectangles.

Laying insulation boards

Mineral wool can be fixed with direct hangers

The insulation layer is covered with a wind and vapor barrier sheet.

Once the insulation is installed, the panels can be fixed to the frame. Each panel has holes for screws. This allows you to hide the seams and not disturb the aesthetic appearance of the facade.

Additional elements

Metal Siding Kit

Schematically, the setup looks like this.

Stage 1. Drawing up a diagram of the house and the future frame for the panels.

Mounting diagram

Stage 2. Cleaning the building of unnecessary decorative elements.

Stage 3. Production of an external frame on the walls of a building or installation of a finished one.

Stage 4. Installing the tide, starting bar and the very first row of panels. A level is used to determine the correct angle.

Low tide installation

We fix the ebb with self-tapping screws in increments of no more than 40 cm

We install planks with an overlap

Installation of external corners

We fix the inner corner

Installation of the start profile

We screw the screws in the center of the holes, check the tightness of fastening by slightly moving the bar to the right and left

Installation of platbands on windows

Fastening of the near-window profile

Stage 5. The following rows are installed, followed by fastening to the frame.

We snap the first panel into the starting bar and fasten it with self-tapping screws to the crate

We insert the next panel into the locking part of the previous one and repeat the installation

Installation of metal siding

Stage 6. Installation of the final plank, spotlights and decorative elements.

Installation of the finishing profile

In the last panel, we make holes with a punch, snap the panel into the finishing profile

Soffit installation

In the future, similar installation elements are stored for each type of panel. This is also a plus of the panels - their installation is similar, which means that you can easily learn how to install the facade.

Metal siding is a good option for summer cottages and one-story houses. Such panels perfectly repeat the effect of wood. In addition, the products are perfectly processed without unnecessary tools. Easy care - just wash the contaminated part of the house with water.

metal siding

Download file. Manufacture of works on the installation of metal siding

Instruction

What are facade panels

Do not confuse facade panels and siding, although their purpose is the same - facing the exterior walls of the house. Facade slabs appeared relatively recently and are actively replacing other methods of protecting buildings from atmospheric and other influences. They are thicker and more durable than siding. Materials for the production of such a shelter for the outer walls have also significantly expanded the range. Today, facade slabs are used both for full coverage of the house and for basement cladding. Their demand is easy to explain: such a design of the facade replaces many natural materials, but is much cheaper.

The house, finished with facade slabs, is protected and beautiful

Types of facade panels

There are numerous types of facade slabs on the market:

• Polyvinyl chloride

An inexpensive cladding option that can be mounted on a lightweight frame or directly on the wall, taking into account the ideal surface. A variety of shapes and colors can please any owner. The disadvantage is the lack of vapor permeability and fragility. Frost resistance is not too high, so it is not worth using such a cladding in the Far North. Many types of vinyl boards are flammable, and most emit harmful fumes when burned.

• Fiber cement

They are made of concrete and wood fibers with the use of synthetic additives, which are a binding component. Durable, environmentally friendly, vapor-permeable, non-flammable fiber-cement facade cladding has won the market in many countries. Imitation of natural materials not only in external coincidence, but also in terms of quality characteristics. The material "under the tree" has the warmth of natural wood, but does not burn or rot.

• Wood fiber boards

They are used mainly for light country houses and cottages, as they have significant drawbacks: combustibility, susceptibility to decay. But these are one of the most frost-resistant materials - up to 100 cycles, they do not crack and are environmentally friendly.

• Made of metal with PVC lining

They are made of galvanized steel or vinyl-coated aluminum. Easy to use and install, especially cassette types. Durable, not subject to decay, well protect the house from noise, dust and moisture. The disadvantage is that the material does not breathe, the outer coating is prone to burning, a considerable cost.

• From porcelain stoneware

This facade material is highly durable, resistant to all types of fungi and damage. Porcelain stoneware slabs look expensive and stylish. Such facades give the impression of prosperity and protect the house from any outside influences. Lack of panel weight. It is quite difficult to carry out cladding alone.

• Glass panels

We used to associate glass facades with large shopping centers or office buildings, but glass is increasingly in demand among those who want to give the walls of their mansion a stylish, and sometimes fantastic look. Impact-resistant, often bullet-proof glass of class A and B is used. Reinforced glass, triplex, glass from foamed glass granulate are used. The advantages of such walls are in their beauty and unusualness. The disadvantage is that it is difficult to install and expensive.

• Thermal panels

The design of the thermal panel is a thick layer of polyurethane foam or polystyrene, covered with ceramic tiles to protect the material from external influences. Such protective facades have a lot of advantages: high heat and noise insulation, durability, frost resistance, impact resistance. The simplicity of the tenon-groove fasteners makes it easy to mount such a cladding.

• Sandwich panels

They are two layers of metal, between which a plastic layer and a vapor barrier are pressed. This is an excellent sound insulator. Withstands any temperature fluctuations. Such plates can have a different surface. Not subject to corrosion and fungus. Operating temperatures from -180 to +100 degrees.

Variety of exterior wall cladding

Finishing the building with facade slabs has more pluses than minuses, and therefore we will immediately say about the disadvantage. The fastening of the facade panel is always carried out on a special frame, and therefore the manufacture of such facades requires knowledge and certain experience. In addition, the cost of many materials is quite high. The advantages of wall cladding with these finishing materials are obvious:

• Protection of the house from exposure to high and low temperatures;
• Long service life of 20 years or more. Most materials have a service life of 50 years or more;
• Protects walls from fungus and decay;
• Resistant to sudden changes in temperature;
• Most of the plates are made of non-combustible and environmentally friendly material;
• Resistant to corrosion damage.

Front panels. The main advantages of the material

Facade panels are made in the form of small slabs, which, according to the type of structural pattern, can imitate natural wood, stone, brick, etc. This finish looks simply luxurious and, with proper installation, can last for several decades. If we talk about the main advantages of facing this type, then it is worth highlighting the following:

• Ease of installation. Panel slabs are assembled into one continuous structure using the most common set of tools. The material has a low weight and locks provided on the end sides, so that the installation of facade panels can be carried out with the involvement of a minimum number of craftsmen.
• Environmental friendliness. The panels do not contain components harmful to human health, which makes it possible to use them for external cladding of buildings and structures of any type.
• Long operating periods. Facade panels are resistant to temperature extremes and seasonal precipitation. In addition, this material has a high degree of strength and does not fade under the influence of direct sunlight. Thanks to these features, facade panels serve for a long time and do not lose their original appearance and protective properties throughout the entire service life.
• Acceptable price. Regardless of the modification and type of structural pattern, modern facade panels have a very reasonable cost. The use of such material allows in a short time and with minimal financial costs to improve the appearance of the facade of any building.

Basic rules for the installation of facade panels

Like any other facing material, facade panels have their own rules for installation. If you want the decoration of the building to last for many years and at the same time not lose its original appearance, when starting to install panels, consider the following:

• Before starting work on the installation of panels, you must carefully read the manufacturer's instructions.
• In order to exclude the possibility of deformation of the plates under the influence of temperature changes, self-tapping screws should be screwed into the perforations without excessive effort. Ideally, for the possibility of thermal expansion, the distance between the surface of the plate and the head of the screw should be 1 millimeter.
• It is possible to fasten the plates of the facing material only with the use of stainless steel self-tapping screws.
• If, in accordance with the instructions, the panels must be mounted on a wooden crate, then its surface must first be opened with a protective solution that prevents the formation of mold and fungus.
• To create a high-quality and reliable crate, it is better to use a galvanized steel profile.
• Depending on the type of facade panels, their installation is carried out from left to right or from bottom to top. With horizontal installation, a vertical crate is prepared and, conversely, with a vertical installation of plates, a horizontal frame is created.
• In the process of installing facade panels, you will have to cut the slabs. To exclude the possibility of damage to the protective coating on the front of the material, we do not recommend that you use a grinder or other tool that operates at high speeds.

If you are not entirely sure that you can install facade panels on your own, then it’s better not to risk it and contact us right away. Specialists of the MSK-Krovlya company will perform all stages of building cladding in strict accordance with the technology, thanks to which the facade panels will last for many years without losing their neat appearance and integrity.

The choice of lathing for panels and its installation

The crate for panels is a supporting structure. Its configuration is usually complicated by the presence of insulation, which must be installed between the slats. Therefore, for work, a material is selected that is most convenient to use and sufficiently strong and durable.

The traditional type of crate is a system of wooden planks.. This option is acceptable, but requires the presence of straight, dried planks, which should be impregnated with an antiseptic immediately after installation to prevent rot, mold, etc.

A more successful option is the construction of a metal crate. Metal guides for drywall sheets are used. They are straight, the galvanized surface prevents corrosion processes, installation and adjustment of the plane is much easier than when working with wooden bars.

In some cases, metal and wooden planks are combined, which is sometimes convenient for complex surface configurations.

Mounting order:

1. Cleaning the wall outside the house, complete surface preparation- putty, (if necessary), primer, surface drying.
2. Wall marking for load-bearing elements- brackets or straight rails.
3. The crate for deck panels has both horizontally and vertically directed slats. Therefore, if it is necessary to install a heater under it, it is necessary to build your own crate. It is needed for mounting on top of it the supporting strips for panels.
4. Insulation is installed between the slats of the primary crate. A layer of waterproof membrane is laid on top of the insulation.
5. A carrier is installed on the slats of the primary crate. Its thickness must be at least 3 cm to provide the desired ventilation gap. Vertical strips are used for mounting corners, sides of panels. The horizontal ones serve as a support surface for the starting and J-slats, the upper sides of the panels, and other elements of the canvas.
6. The step of the horizontal bars corresponds to the height of the panel, the step of the vertical bars is half of its length.

The main task during the installation of the lathing is to ensure that the dimensions of the panels and the distances between the planks correspond, and also to ensure the presence of a flat plane that allows obtaining the correct geometry of the sheathing web.

Decorative panels for clinker tiles

A relatively new material that gives an aesthetic appearance to the facade and insulates the house at the same time. Such panels have two components - a base made of insulation and an outer coating. The coating can be stylized for any material - brick, stone, etc.

Such panels are fastened very quickly, due to a simple method. For fastening, you will need a spatula, construction glue, a prepared frame. The latter is not necessary, since such panels can be mounted immediately on the wall. The frame serves to install an additional layer of insulation.

Mounting diagram

The panels are fastened as follows - a solution of building glue is applied to the notched trowel. Regarding mortar, each tile manufacturer specifies the proportion formula required for installation. Glue is applied to the product, which is applied to the outer wall or frame. After, the panel comes off after three minutes, and is again attached to the surface. This method is necessary in order to increase the adhesion strength.

Elements are fixed with glue

The evenness of the installation is checked by a level

Between the joints, the panels can be glued with construction adhesive, and for additional strength, the panels are fixed with screws. The only drawback of such panels is their high cost. In return, you get not only a beautiful facade, but also a warm home.

Installation of thermal panels

Fixing elements

Seam filling

Most likely, this is the best option not only to improve the appearance of the facade of the building, but also to insulate. Such panels look the most attractive, because they take the form of various materials and products from them. The house can turn into a stone fortress.

In addition, in case of damage to one of the parts of the facade, there is no need to disassemble the entire structure. It is enough to choose the right size panel, remove the damaged one and install a new one.

The main recommendation is to install in the warm season, since the glue may not harden properly at low temperatures, and the whole structure will not firmly adhere to the wall. Each manufacturer indicates on the packaging at what air temperatures it is most correct to mount the panel.

Video - Installation, insulation with thermal panels

Video - Installation of facade thermal panels (PPU) with clinker tiles

Panels with decorative tiles

Facade thermal panels

Such panels are a novelty in the field of finishing materials. They consist of a base (mainly compressed foam) and an external decorative coating. The panels perform two functions at the same time:

• home insulation;
• imitation of natural stone.

There are no significant disadvantages of the disadvantage, except perhaps the high cost.

Expanded polystyrene facade panel

Corner thermal panels

Mounting technology

Finishing the facade with such decorative panels is the easiest and fastest siding option. This was made possible thanks to special grooves that allow you to securely fix the docked panels. No seams are visible.

Thermal panels

The panels are mounted on construction adhesive applied with a notched trowel. The proportions in which the adhesive solution is prepared are indicated by the manufacturers on the packaging.

Panel mounting

Gluing occurs as follows: the panel is applied to the wall, after three minutes it is torn off, and after another two it is glued again. This allows you to increase the stability and adhesion of materials.

Installation of thermal panels

Installation of thermal panels

Installation of thermal panels

Installation of thermal panels

Important! If the panel does not adhere during re-application, then the adhesive mixture is not suitable or was not applied in sufficient quantity. .

Installation is carried out in rows, you should move from the bottom up. So the bottom row will support the top one. After laying one row, they take a half-hour break so that the glue dries (it will take a day to dry completely), the optimum ambient temperature is 20-25 ° C.

Wood siding

Wood siding

Such panels can only be used for finishing one-story buildings due to their impressive weight. Despite the special impregnations with which the products are processed, the first care will be required after a few seasons after installation. With proper handling, such siding will last for decades.

Mounting technology

As in the case of metal siding, two options are possible here:

• install the panels yourself;
• buy a finished design.

Self-plating happens as follows.

Stage 1. First, a frame is assembled from a wooden beam. The first rack is attached perpendicular to the ground, all subsequent ones are installed in the same way in half a meter increments. After that, the transverse racks are installed. Instead of wood, the frame can be built from a metal profile.

Lathing installation

Stage 2. The frame (if it is wooden) is treated with stain and antiseptics to protect it from insects, precipitation, wind, etc.

Important! Vertical racks cannot be placed directly on the ground - special linings must be made, otherwise the tree will absorb moisture from the soil and will soon rot. . Stage 3

The space between the posts is filled with mineral wool.

Stage 3. The space between the posts is filled with mineral wool.

Warming with mineral wool

Stage 4. The panels are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.

The finished design vaguely reminiscent of a suspended ceiling. The installation procedure in this case is quite simple.

Stage 1. Extreme guides are attached.

Stage 2. Then, with a step equal to the length of the boards, the internal ones are installed.

Stage 3. The siding is inserted between the rails. The first strip, the second, the third, etc. are installed.

Stage 4. After that, the top row is leveled and covered with a wooden frame for fixation.

Wood siding installation

This installation option has significant drawbacks, including the almost complete lack of thermal and sound insulation.

Important! There is another kind of wooden panels - long-band siding. It consists of sheets six meters long, which are fastened with dowels or liquid nails not to the frame, but immediately to the wall. A minimum of two people are required for installation.

We mount the first facade panel with our own hands

We fix the front panel

Often the walls of the building are uneven, so you first need to fix the starting bar at the lowest point of the building. Leave a gap of 10 centimeters at each edge of the wall to install the outer corner. To screw in the screws, holes are made in the frame in increments of about 40 centimeters. Keep a close eye on the horizontality of the first bar, the correct fastening of all subsequent panels depends on it.

If necessary, the bottom row panels can be cut with a circular saw. To do this, you can use a circular saw, using a panel with thin teeth, setting it in the opposite direction. When cutting the panel to the desired height, adjust the direction of the saw to keep chipping to a minimum.

If trimming of the lower panels is required, the starting profile is not used. In this case, the panels are simply fixed through the front surface in inconspicuous places, driving at least 5 nails into one panel. Before driving nails through the front surface, pre-drill holes for fasteners.

The second row of panels is installed and moved on top of the previous one, taking into account a small gap for the expansion of the material. The same method is used to install all subsequent rows. Try to constantly check the level of the corners - they should always be level with the panels.

When you reach the top of the facade, you may need to cut the last row of height as well. Try to cut the material carefully so as not to damage the protective layer. Otherwise, the characteristics of the panels and their appearance will deteriorate. To finish the inner corners, you can use the J-profile. Align the panels with vinyl or aluminum tape before mounting the corner.

Output

The protected facade of the house lasts several times longer, and the beautiful one also pleases the eye. Facade panels perfectly cope with these tasks, being an aesthetic, practical and inexpensive finishing material. Separately, it is worth noting the ease of installation work.

A high-quality frame and competent fixation of the starting profile is the main part of the matter. When installing the panels themselves, only care and accuracy are important. Also, one should not forget about the thermal expansion of the material, to compensate for which it is necessary to observe the expansion joints between the sections and the gaps between the caps of the fixing elements and the surface of the finish.

Do-it-yourself installation of heavy facade panels in stages

Installation of heavy facade elements is carried out in a different way. It is impossible to simply fix a fiberboard or porcelain stoneware to the starting profile without additional fasteners. Therefore, the course of work is as follows.

• First of all, we design the crate. It is necessary to calculate the number and types of profile strips, brackets and fasteners.

Important! Do not use a galvanized profile for plasterboard! The facade is too heavy for this metal. You need to purchase a special reinforced profile

Wall surface prepared for fixing the facing material

We install the brackets on which the vertical profile will then be attached. The size of the working part of the bracket is calculated from the thickness of the insulation. After laying the thermal insulation, we install vertical profiles. Mount the main and intermediate profile. The main one should be located at the junction of the plates, and the intermediate one in the middle. The step calculation is carried out based on the architectural features of the building project and the wind load: the size between the profiles is usually 40-60 cm. The horizontal planks have a step corresponding to the dimensions of the panel.

• The next step is to install the lower ebb at a distance of 40 cm from the ground and fasten the starting profile or clamps. Clamps or metal clips are designed not only for fastening, but also for the device of an expansion joint.
• Next, we begin the fastening of the first row. The thicker the facing material, the more responsibly it is necessary to approach the work. Fastening of a facade element made of porcelain stoneware and other weighty structures with a thickness of more than 15 mm is carried out on clamps or on internal fasteners. The plates are connected in accordance with the instructions and the drawing. Fastening to the clamps

• After installation, all joints are sealed with sealant and carefully cleaned. To avoid damage to the surface, the joints are glued with masking tape, which is subsequently removed.
• The design of the upper row should be made with the formation of a ventilation gap, which is typical for all ventilated facades. For this, a U-shaped profile and a low tide are installed. The same is done below. This will ensure proper air circulation. Top and bottom connection

• The formation of external corners is usually already provided by the manufacturer. This can be done without a butt-to-butt cut or with a cut. A metal corner can be superimposed on the corner, which will need to be painted. In any case, the kit offers sealant and paint to match the color of the main cladding.

Important! During installation, do not forget to leave 3 mm between the plates for thermal expansion! The ends are protected with a special sealant, which should be included.

Corner mounting

If you pay attention to the installation methods, then there are no fundamental differences. There are certain nuances that should be considered when installing the panels yourself:. The bottom layer is the most important

An evenly laid or installed panel is the key to correct and successful work. In the case of improper installation, there is a high probability of replacing the entire structure. Installing the first siding panel and correctly engaging the profile lock
The frame is an important part. In addition to clinker panels, other products need a frame. It will minimize the load on the walls of the house and distribute it correctly. In addition, various heaters can be installed in the space between the wall and the tile thanks to the frame. Wooden frame for siding The easiest way to insulate
The seams of the panels are perfectly hidden behind each other when properly installed. Building (joining) siding panels along the length
The minimum number of tools - you need a construction (preferably) knife to cut off excess parts of the panels, a screwdriver, a level, a ruler. In addition, the installation of panels does not take much time. If you feel the difficulty to install the panel yourself, without a specialist, hiring one person is enough. In the future, observing the work, you can easily repeat all the work done for other buildings. A large field for design solutions. Most of the products are stylized as stone, wood and decorative bricks. The house will look rich and elegant. Finishing the facade of the house

1. The bottom layer is the most important. An evenly laid or installed panel is the key to correct and successful work. In the case of incorrect installation, there is a high probability of replacing the entire structure. Installing the first siding panel and correctly engaging the profile lock
2. The frame is an important part. In addition to clinker panels, other products need a frame. It will minimize the load on the walls of the house and distribute it correctly. In addition, thanks to the frame, various heaters can be installed in the space between the wall and the tile. Wooden frame for siding

   The easiest way to insulate

3. The seams of the panels are perfectly hidden behind each other when properly installed. Building (joining) siding panels along the length
4. The minimum number of tools - you need a construction (preferably) knife to cut off excess parts of the panels, a screwdriver, a level, a ruler. In addition, the installation of panels does not take much time.
5. If you feel the difficulty to install the panel yourself, without a specialist, hiring one person is enough. In the future, observing the work, you can easily repeat all the work done for other buildings.
6. A large field for design solutions. Most of the products are stylized as stone, wood and decorative bricks. The house will look rich and elegant. Finishing the facade of the house

This is what a person needs to know if he decides to do the installation of panels on his own. The process does not differ in technical complexity

It is necessary to act carefully and carefully to achieve the desired result.

wood siding

Perhaps one of the most expensive types of panels, but the most beautiful. The panels are made from pressed sawdust, treated with special solutions for strength and durability. However, if you do not take care of such a facade regularly (every two seasons), then it quickly becomes unusable. In addition, this method of finishing is only suitable for one-story houses, since the panels are heavy, the frame may not withstand.

wood siding

As in the case of metal siding, wooden panels are mounted on a prepared frame. Installation methods are identical:

• the frame is made of wooden blocks. But it is possible to install from a metal profile to facilitate construction. The first rack is installed at a right angle to the base of the building, and the rest after half a meter are parallel. Racks are installed between them across; Diagram of a wooden crate for siding
• a wooden frame must be treated with insect and moisture repellents;
• the resulting space between the racks can be filled with insulation. Mineral wool is recommended for insulation, since it will not only keep the heat in the house, but also allow the condensate to be removed; Sheathing the wall with a block house

  Facade cladding technology with wood siding

• the panels are fixed to the frame using clamps or screws.

wood siding for home decoration

The above panels can be replaced with longer ones. The advantage of such panels is that they are fixed immediately to the wall one after another in a row. The length of such products is 6 meters. This is a faster way to install. But in order to complete the work on the facade, you need at least two people. One person will not cope with such work, as the panels may not be installed correctly.

In order to cut off the unnecessary part of the panel, it is recommended to use a grinder. She will most quickly cope with such a product and evenly cut off part of the panel.

The complexity of such products lies in their mass. For installation, it is best to call an assistant. So, the process will be optimally fast and correct.

After installation, the wooden facade is covered with a protective layer of paint.

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1 INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR HANYI FACADE PANELS Necessary tools: 1. Screwdriver 2. Tape measure 3. Level 4. Metal shears 5. Square 6. Perforator (punching holes for fasteners) 7. Electric jigsaw with a saw for metal Surface preparation. Installation of the CHANIA panels is allowed under any weather conditions. The surface of the wall does not need special preparation. To level the plane, if necessary, you can use a galvanized metal profile 60 x 27 and direct hangers (they are used when installing drywall). The profile is installed at intervals of cm (vertically or horizontally, depending on the method of fastening the panels)

2 Installation. A starter bar is used to fasten the first panel. The installation location of the starting bar is determined at the lowest point of the foundation. In this case, the starting bar must be strictly horizontal (with horizontal fastening of the panels). The first panel is installed on the starting bar, covering the starting bar, and fastened to the profile with self-tapping screws. Each next panel during installation closes the fasteners of the previous panel.

3 Corner elements (external and internal) apply the design of the corner joints of the panels. Between themselves, they are connected by a thorn-groove locking element. In addition, corners can be used at the junction of the filing of the vertical wall of the gable and the lower part of the protruding roof, window, door openings, etc. When connecting panels at corners and joints, it is recommended to leave a temperature gap of 3-5 mm between them.

4 The connecting strip closes the connection of the panels at the end. It is fastened as follows: between the end edges of the panels, a U-shaped aluminum guide is fastened with self-tapping screws, which is the counterpart of the lock of the connecting element, and then the connecting element itself is inserted into it with little effort. Between themselves along the length of the elements are connected by a thorn-groove lock. To close the cut and fasten the last panel, a finishing strip is used.

5 Calculation of the material area. When calculating the material, 5% must be added to the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls for cuts; if the structure of a complex architectural configuration is 10%. To find out the number of starting strips, you need to subtract the sum of the widths of the doors from the perimeter of the building. In order to find out the number of external and internal corners, you need to measure the length of the external and internal corners of the building and divide by 0.38 m (this is the length of the corner element) and increase to an integer. This way you will get the required number of elements. Calculation of the need for a docking profile. Find the sum of the heights at the joints of the panels and also divide by 0.38 (this is the length of the docking element) and increase the resulting number to an integer. Cutting. To cut the panels, you can use a hacksaw with fine teeth or an electric jigsaw. Since the metal is covered with an aluminum-zinc protective layer, it is broken when sawing or drilling panels. We recommend that you treat the places damaged during sawing or drilling with protective equipment: enamel after Storage. CHANIA panels do not need special storage conditions. Mounting material. It is recommended to use 9.5 mm galvanized self-tapping screws to fasten the panels to the crate. For mounting 100 sq.m. panels will need about 1000 pieces. Maintenance of panels "CHANIA". Panels "HANYI" - the material is durable. Once installed, it requires no further investment. All you have to do to preserve the beauty of your home is to wash it once a year using a regular garden hose. If the material is heavily soiled, a simple non-abrasive detergent can be used. If you follow all the recommendations for installation and maintenance, the CHANIA panels will delight you for many years.

Features of mounting panels

Deck polypropylene facade panels have technical characteristics close to most plastic sheathing samples - vinyl, acrylic, etc.

Accordingly, the conditions of installation work, in particular - the obligatory observance of thermal gaps - are equally relevant for deck panels.

The fact is that a solid sheathing fabric, being tightly recruited without gaps, will begin to expand when heated and go in waves. In some cases, destruction of nail strips is possible - strips along the edge of the panel with oblong holes for fixing to the base with nails or, more often, self-tapping screws.

In order to avoid damage or damage to the appearance of the skin, temperature gaps must be observed without fail - gaps between all contacting elements of the skin. In particular, this condition is relevant for elements that need longitudinal joining (for example, a starting bar, J-bar, etc.).

For the same reasons, nails and self-tapping screws must not be hammered / screwed all the way. About 1 mm is left between the cap and the part, so that it can move when changing sizes. The holes in the nail strips are oblong in shape.

Self-tapping screw is screwed exactly in the middle so that there is the possibility of a slight movement in one direction or another. The only case when this rule is violated is the installation of vertical elements (for example, corner strips). For them, the self-tapping screw in the upper hole is installed at the top point so that the part does not fall down. The rest of the screws are arranged according to the general scheme.

NOTE!
The size of the expansion gap depends on the installation temperature. For a hot summer day, 2-3 mm is enough, for a cold winter day - at least 6 mm.

Types of facade panels and the specifics of their installation

• Fiberboards and Japanese fiberboards

They consist of cement, reinforcing fibers and mineral fillers. They are distinguished by a high level of resistance to external influences and good flexibility.

Such panels are attached to an already attached frame (if we are talking about 14 mm panels), to a wall or a supporting frame of a building (panels of 16 mm or more). Thin panels are mounted on galvanized screws, thicker ones are fixed with clamps.

Fiber panels are installed on the frame, which, in turn, is fixed to the wall on brackets through paronite (it will help minimize the load on the frame structure at the time of settlement). A heater is placed between the cells of the frame, on top of which a vapor barrier film is laid.

Additional workflow levels: a basement ebb is fixed to the frame (above the blind area by 5-10 cm);

Kleimers for installation of plates are placed on all vertical guides.

A seam bar is made to properly position the plates relative to each other.

On the clamps located below, fiber plates are put on and fixed with fasteners. All joints are treated with sealant and painted with paint in the color of the panels.

• Installation of plastic panels.

To install them, it is also necessary to remove the previous decoration of the house, remove irregularities. Then the walls must be marked with lines clearly vertically and horizontally at a distance of 50-70 cm. The crate can be wooden or metal, it is reinforced in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwindows and doors. The cells of the lattice are also filled with insulation and vapor barrier film.

The specificity of the work lies in the fact that plastic panels are mounted from the corner of the building and from the bottom row, by connecting the locks and attaching them to the crate with self-tapping screws.

• Installation of metal panels. Facade (siding)

Differ in the increased level of durability and a polymeric sheeting. Siding requires a metal crate, which is attached to the walls with perforated hangers.

Insulation is laid in the cells, but it is necessary to provide for such an aspect as the possibility of facade ventilation, otherwise the condensate formed under the metal will begin to destroy the wooden surface.

Siding is mounted from the bottom corner.

• Installation of facade panels: thermal panels.

Installation starts from the left corner in the starting profile, the clamps are fixed on the spikes, to which the next thermal panel is attached.

• Sandwich panels. Mounting. Facade of a frame house

This name is not accidental, since the panel contains 3 layers, one of which is a heater.

Such panels are not easy to install alone: ​​first, a U-profile is attached, where the 1st panel is inserted, and a frame from the corner of the building. Everything is set according to the level, the plate is attached directly to the frame.

For longitudinal seams, you will need a sealant, for transverse seams - mineral wool and polyurethane foam. Subsequent panels are fastened from above with locks.

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PVC siding

Plastic front panels Nailite (Naylayt)

PVC panels are a cheap and easy-to-install way to finish the facade, characterized by a wide range of models and, therefore, a lot of possible design solutions. The only drawback is the appearance. From a close distance, even with the naked eye, it is noticeable that the house is sheathed in plastic.

Vinyl siding

Mounting technology

PVC panels are installed only horizontally. For work you will need:

• perforator;
• hammer;
• roulette;
• Bulgarian;
• level;
• punch - a tool for making ears on the edges of sheets of material.

Stage 1. First, a visual inspection of the house is carried out, a place for mounting the first row is determined. This row should match the old finish or cover the top of the foundation (if we are talking about a new building).

Stage 2. All the necessary components are installed - internal and external corners, platbands, the first strip, etc. You should start from the corners, while there should be a small gap between them and the eaves of the building - 6.5 mm.

Stage 3. Installing the first row is the most important stage in finishing the facade, on which the evenness of the entire siding depends. First, the boundary of the first row is determined, after which a horizontal line is drawn on the wall. When installing the first strip, this line will serve as a guide.

Important! Between the ends of two adjacent panels there should be a gap of 1.27 cm. Stage 4

Appropriate accessories are installed on the door and windows - platbands, ebbs, final overlays. For greater accuracy, the strips of material are joined at an angle of 45ᵒ.

Stage 4. Appropriate accessories are installed on the door and windows - platbands, ebbs, final linings. For greater accuracy, the strips of material are joined at an angle of 45ᵒ.

Fixing vertical elements

Stage 5. The remaining panels are installed from the bottom up, focusing on the first row. Each panel is inserted into the profile and nailed (not completely). The interval between the panels should be 0.4 cm, and between them and other components - from 0.6 cm to 1.25 cm.

Details are fastened with a gap

The panels are superimposed on one another by ½ of the factory mark, while vertical overlaps should be avoided - they are more visible from the side of the facade.

Stage 6. In the upper edge, the sheets are installed in the same way as under the windows. Only whole panels are used, trimming is possible only for gables. When installing the last row, a J-profile is used with holes ø6 mm, made in 0.5 m increments (to drain water from the roof).

Installation technology of external wall panels

We will talk about the construction of a facade of single-layer facing elements made of polyvinyl chloride. The panels are mounted on an uneven base on a frame made of galvanized metal profiles.

Front wall panels are mounted practically at any temperature. Installation is prohibited only in severe frosts, when the thermometer drops below -15 ° C. Facade cladding work consists of several stages:

1. Training.
2. Crate for mounting panels.
3. Fastening of facade panels.

Training

Substrate preparation work must be completed prior to installation of the load-bearing frame. Extra elements are removed from the facade, such as an external unit for an air conditioner. From the windows, the ebb and sheathing of the slopes are removed. If the facade is wooden, then it must be treated with an antiseptic to inhibit the processes of decay and the development of fungus. If the facade is stone or concrete, then such processing is not necessary.

Facing without insulation does not provide for the installation of a vapor barrier membrane. If external lighting is planned, then wiring is carried out at the preparation stage.

Crate for mounting panels

The crate for facade panels can be made of wood or U-shaped profile. The second option is preferable, since the galvanized profile does not corrode and does not collapse. It does not need additional protection.

On a flat base, it is allowed to mount the profile directly on a bare wall. If the facade is curved, then a frame is mounted under the facade panels.

The frame consists of brackets and bearing profiles. With the help of brackets, the frame is leveled. The profile is mounted on a pre-marked surface of the facade. Marking is carried out using a laser level and a measuring tape

The first horizontal element is installed 50 mm from the ground. A starting bar for facade panels is attached to it. The installation step of the vertical guides is 500-600 mm, and the horizontal ones depend on the height of the cladding element. Horizontal guides are made of J-profile. For fastening, self-tapping dowels with a pitch of 300-400 mm are used.

Facade panel fasteners

Installation of facade panels starts from the bottom corner strictly from left to right and from top to bottom. The first row is installed on the starting bar. The left end, which goes to the corner, is cut exactly at a right angle. Then it is fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the nail holes and the body of the wall. The second panel is connected to the first one up to the junction of the temperature compensators and fixed in the same way. To increase the strength of the structure, the panels can be glued to the starting bar with mounting foam.

The device of the facade of single-layer and multi-layer panels can be done by hand. The work is not particularly difficult, subject to the rules and technologies. Facade panels will be complemented by a wide range of additional elements that allow you to hide small flaws of a novice installer.

Installation of facade panels video

Now let's look at the process step by step:

• We install a substructure made of metal or wood (depending on the requirements of the facade slab manufacturer). To do this, we mount the guide bar at the very bottom of the entire structure, drill holes in it for self-tapping screws at a distance of 30–40 centimeters. From each edge of the wall there should be a gap of a little more than 10 centimeters for the subsequent installation of the outer corner. It is very important that the guide rail is attached to the wall in a perfectly horizontal position. This is the beginning of all installation work, and the slightest unevenness at this stage will make the geometry of the entire facade incorrect.
• After the plank is fixed and secured, it is necessary to install the outer corners on adjacent walls. A J-profile is placed around doors, arches, windows. Between this profile and the panel, a gap of 0.5–1 centimeter is made, which is necessary for further expansion and contraction of the panels when the temperature changes.
• When the frame is in place, we proceed to install the panels. If for this the sheets need to be cut, then the cut edge must be placed on the left, and the even one should be left for further strong adhesion to the next panel. The panel sheet is inserted into the plank and moved to the outer corner. After using the building level you make sure that the sheet is fixed evenly, and it fits snugly against the corner, you can fix it with self-tapping screws.
• From the first sheet, which will serve as a kind of guide for you, continue to install subsequent sheets. In this case, the following should be taken into account: the corners must necessarily be at the same level as the facade panels.
• Before installing the panels, the facade is covered with a layer of thermal insulation and a hydro-windproof membrane. Not everyone does this. We advise you to cover the house with a good thermal insulation material. After all, the main function of facade panels is the insulation of the house. For this, it is best to use basalt mineral wool - this is the most reliable and safe material, which is characterized by increased durability and incombustibility. Some consider it possible to reduce the cost of thermal insulation and choose fiberglass or polystyrene foam, but the fire resistance of these materials is much lower. Waterproofing material will protect the insulation from getting wet. Please note that during installation work, insulation without waterproofing cannot be left outdoors for several days. Otherwise, the cotton wool will absorb too much moisture and will not be able to effectively perform its functions. In a situation with the choice of waterproofing, some also tend to purchase an economical film, but such a choice cannot be justified. Be sure to provide a ventilation gap that will not allow condensation to form on the inside of the sheets of facade panels.

High-quality facade panels are quite difficult to distinguish from natural materials.

At first glance, it may seem that the above sequence of actions is quite simple and does not require any building skills. Nevertheless, this work requires accuracy, and the most common mistakes are made already at the very beginning of work - if the bar is installed incorrectly, when one of its edges goes up or down.

The main thing is the correct marking and a horizontal frame.

The subsequent installation of sheets will take place quickly enough. Nevertheless, we advise you not to rush to mount the panels and double-check the position of each sheet before fixing it. We recommend reading the article.

PVC panels

PVC siding is the easiest and cheapest way to decorate the facade of a building. Such panels are popular for several reasons: ease of installation; low cost; huge color options. Of the shortcomings, it is worth noting that such panels are made of plastic and any facade will look plastic even at the farthest distance.

This type of panel is installed exclusively horizontally. For work, you will need a construction or any other knife. In addition, a puncher will be needed. You will also need a level to determine the angle of the panels, as well as a hammer for driving nails.

The initial stage of installing PVC panels is a preliminary inspection of the house. It is necessary to determine the location of the first row of panels. In the case of a new building, it is recommended to install panels from the beginning of the foundation. Also, PVC panels can be installed from the initial row of the old finish.

Beginning of installation

Next, you should install the initial frame, namely: corners, both external and internal, platbands, first strips for attaching panels. Installation begins from the corners. The gap between them and the eaves should not be more than 6.5 mm.

The most important stage, on which the further fate of the entire facade will depend, is the installation of the first strip of panels.

It is important to install the first strip of fasteners as correctly as possible, since the fastening of the panel itself depends on it. If the strip was laid evenly, then the panel will be even.

General provisions

On windows and doors it is necessary to install platbands, ebbs and linings. And after the completed steps, the installation of all the remaining rows of the facade begins. The top panel is inserted into the profile and nailed, but not completely. Between the panels there should be an interval of 0.4 cm, and between other components - no more than 6 mm. In order to avoid vertical overlaps, it is recommended to install the panels at half the factory mark. So the joints will not be visible from the front side.

The sequence of installation of facade panels

When installing panels, remember that parts of the products will need to be cut off. For this, a construction knife is used. A ruler and level are also needed to more accurately measure the angle and draw a straight line on the product. We draw a line on the panel in the place where you need to cut off a piece, carefully draw it several times with a knife. Plus plastic - it is ideal for such manipulations.

It is necessary to be extremely careful, since mechanical damage is very visible on such material.

Such panels are most in demand because of their ease of installation and low cost. In addition, PVC products are installed at various heights of the building, as they are very light. Installation of such panels is simple and does not require much time.

The final step is to install the top row of panels. Only whole panels are needed for the top row. In addition, the last panel is closed with a special profile for water outflow.

Video - Installation of basement siding

Their benefits

This:

• aesthetic qualities: thanks to the imitation of various textures and a large palette of colors, they allow you to make the house stylish and beautiful;
• long service life and ease of operation (just wipe the panels with plain water and they already look like new);
• the light weight of the facade slabs reduces the load on the foundation;
• good water repellency;
• acceptable price;
• you can add insulation or use panels with insulation.

facade panels- this is a facing material made of polymer sheets (usually from expanded polystyrene or polyurethane foam) with perforation with the possibility of fastening with self-tapping screws literally on any surface (from and ending with wood).

Facade cladding panel

Installation of light facade panels

The first step will be the manufacture of the crate. It can be of several types, but the most important thing is to decide if you need insulation under the facade elements or not. It must be remembered that even if you live in a warm area, insulation serves not only to retain heat, but also protects from heat. It takes on the moisture of evaporation and transfers the dew point beyond the walls of the house. Modern heaters are noise absorbers and carry part of the protective function of the facade system. This is only the main part of the advantages of organizing a facade with heaters. True, there is a drawback: the material has a cost of 200 rubles per square meter. On the other hand, if the walls require quality straightening, you cannot do without it. It is better to follow the advice and design a good ventilated facade on your house, then straightening the walls is not required.

Sheaths are of two types

Manufacturing of crates

The crate can be made of metal and wood. For heavy slabs, such as those made of natural stone, glass or porcelain stoneware, the framework is required from a metal profile.

Let's take a metal grill as a basis. If you live in a warm area, then vertical planks can be dug into the ground, and in areas with freezing soil, you need to measure at least 40 cm from the ground and start attaching the planks in increments of 91 cm or slightly less than the size of the insulation. When fastening plates without insulation, horizontal strips are mounted to vertical strips without protrusions "flush", the strapping step will be 46 cm.

Strapping plan

Setting the start profile

We proceed to the installation of the starting profile. It is mounted above the tide, if any. In the case of a ventilated facade, the ebb is installed under the J-profile, into which the lower layer of insulation is attached. Installation of the starting profile begins along the bottom bar of the frame strictly horizontally. Don't forget to measure the corner panels. Usually their sides are 10 cm, so the starting profile is mounted with a 10 cm indent from the corner. If the lower edge of the slab requires trimming, then the starting profile is not used, and the lining is screwed or nailed directly to the crate.

Lathing with starting profile

Installation of the first row

Attach the corner first. Now move the first panel along the starting profile to the left until it is completely connected to the corner

Note that the mounting pins must mate correctly. Fix the plate and fill the joint with sealant. Move on to the next plate, moving from left to right. Cut the boards if necessary, taking care not to cut more than one field joint.

The elements are cut with a grinder or a saw with rare teeth. Adjust the saw stroke to avoid chipping. Cut the last panel to size.

Installation of the first row

Subsequent rows are fastened according to the scheme of the first row. For "brick" facades, it is necessary to move the slab relative to another in order to get a natural pattern of a brick wall.

Shaping internal corners

To mount internal corners, you can use a J-profile or cut the slabs according to the size and pattern. Take two profiles and install in the inner corner of the building. The fastening step is 15-20 cm.

The last row of panels ends with the fastening of the J-profile and the ebb.

Installing a J-profile for internal corners

Reading time: 6 minutes

Landscape designer with 4 years experience

Today they offer many systems and options for finishing the facade: you can sheathe the house with brick, wood panels, achieve a spectacular imitation of natural stone. Houses with Japanese materials look neat and representative. Is it possible to install facade panels with your own hands, what features should be taken into account?

How to properly install siding

It is worth taking care of the equipment of the tool in advance. Installation of facade panels will necessarily require the presence of the following things:

1. For marking surfaces: an ordinary mounting level, a tape measure, a plumb line, a water level or a laser level, a chalk cord, a square, a pencil.
2. For sawing and cutting panels, battens: a fine-toothed saw, or a hacksaw for metal, an electric jigsaw and a grinder to speed up the process, metal shears, a cutter knife.
3. To install facade panels: screwdriver, screwdriver.

Siding installation

Before starting work, it is reasonable to sketch out a drawing of the building for the correct distribution of panels over the entire surface, determining the required number in order to avoid a large number of unusable trimmings. The most important event in the installation of facade panels is the preliminary preparation of the plane: marking the vertical guides of the frame with a step and according to the scheme recommended by the manufacturer, installing the crate with a starting horizontal bar exclusively by level. Further actions are primitive and do not cause any particular difficulties.

Building drawing for correct distribution of panels

Step by step instructions for installing siding

The entire technology for installing facade panels can be divided into 6 parts in stages:

1. wall preparation;
2. installation of vertical guides of the crate, if necessary, laying insulation;
3. fixing the lower starting horizontal trim of the facade;
4. J-profile installation;
5. corner device;
6. cladding with facade panels.

Wall surface preparation

If the wooden wall is even, which is rare, then the siding can be mounted directly on it, without crates. Flat is not a perfectly smooth surface, but the absence of bulges and dips that are detected upon careful visual inspection. At the walls of the log, the seams must be caulked, the wooden surface must be treated with an antiseptic and dried. On the old building, the surface of the wall is cleaned from the previous finish, nails, crumbling blocks or rotten boards, and weak points are strengthened. Work is underway to insulate the building.

Basic installation rules

The bars under the frame must be dried and treated with biosecurity, otherwise the whole siding will lead over time. In this regard, it is more reliable to carry out the installation of facades with a galvanized metal profile lathing, using nails or screws protected from corrosion. For the extreme vertical guides, beacons with a stretched rope are installed, then the rest of the planks are stuffed along the plumb line.

Correct and incorrect installation of siding

The easiest way to achieve perfect evenness is with a metal profile and drywall mounts, with which you can adjust the gap between the guide and the wall. Installation of basement siding from Docke vinyl panels under brick or natural stone implies a step between vertical slats of no more than 400 mm. In general, you need to calculate so that the lath of the crate corresponds to the attachment point in the middle of the panel - there should be three attachment points in total, along with the central one.

In this matter, it is better to follow the recommendations of the siding manufacturer, especially for heavy or long materials, such as porcelain stoneware, wood, steel. For the less common vertical arrangement of facade panels, a horizontal crate is similarly performed. Siding is installed from left to right, rows from bottom to top.

If metal siding is being installed, then at the attachment point it is important to leave a gap of 1 mm between the screw head and the perforated strip, with the expectation of thermal expansion of the material. Before joining the panel to the corner, a gap of at least 6 mm must be maintained. At temperatures during installation below +5 ° C, the interval should be increased to 9 mm. Such amendments are especially true for vinyl siding (Deck or Alt), which "walks" when heated, and warps when there is no room for "walking". Temperature gaps must be observed at all points of joining with the profile.

Siding Installation Rules

The starting strip, from which the fastening of the facade panels will begin, is marked along the entire perimeter of the building with a chalk cord fixed on nails driven into the corners. The location of the drive-in is determined by the water level with alignment under the "horizon" from the lowest point of the wall. The profile is fixed from this point. If the house is on a slope, then it may turn out that in some places the length of the crate is not enough. To adjust, cut the planks of the required size and build up the frame.

Installation of the start profile

At the corners, mark the width of the corner profile, after which you can proceed with the installation of the starting strip indented from the corner marks. When joining and fastening the profile, the rules for observing temperature gaps apply. Be sure to check the evenness of the horizontal installation with a conventional level. If a basement tide is provided for fastening, then the starting profile is stuffed over it along the horizon line.

Installing the universal J-profile

For edging the slopes of window and door openings, the factory of facade panels fastens the J-profile, it is also possible to replace the internal corner profile with it. When making openings in the profile, cuts are made on the mounting side with a step of 50-100 mm. External docking can be done both directly and at an angle of 45 ° using cuts and folds, after analyzing the necessary parameters of the external view. Internal corners are connected using one or two universal J profiles.

Mounting corners

Mounting corners

The last preparatory stage before installing the siding is the installation of external corners. The fasteners should recede from the roof eaves by 3 mm, the lower end should protrude beyond the starting bar by 4-6 mm. Verticality is checked by a level. Docking is carried out at the same distance at all corners of the building, overlapping with the top element overlapping the bottom one.

• Start installation from the least visible wall of the building, which will give you the opportunity to "fill your hand" and eliminate shortcomings.
• Every 2-3 rows of cladding panels, check the facade structure for horizontal level.
• 2 days before installation, store the panels in a warm room to start installation with optimal thermal expansion of the material.
• Screw the screws in the center of the mounting hole.

Siding Installation Recommendations

Where to order and how much does the installation of facades cost?

Services for the installation of facade panels are provided by construction and repair teams specializing in the external cladding of buildings. You can find these on the recommendations of friends, ads in information publications or online using the services of construction portals. In June 2016, the following prices for siding installation were formed:

• installation of wooden crates per sq.m. from 100 rubles, metal - from 380 rubles, the cost of performing work on a brick or concrete wall increases by 20-50%;
• installation of vinyl panels per sq.m. - from 250 rubles, metal - from 210 rubles, fiber cement boards - from 680 rubles, basement siding - from 300 rubles.

Video: do-it-yourself siding installation

The facade is the face of the house. If it is in an unsatisfactory condition: old, dilapidated, in need of repair, then living in such a house is inconvenient, and it is almost impossible to sell. For facade cladding, materials of various cost and quality are used.

Natural stone and ceramic granite are expensive and high-quality materials that are not available to everyone. the foundation must be carefully prepared.

"Wet" finishing is a laborious and expensive process, limited in time by a warm period. Creating a textured plaster pattern is associated with additional difficulties and costs.

The way out is to decorate the house with facade panels.

Unlike natural stone or metal siding, cladding the facade of a house with panels is an economical way to repair. They are of two types:

1. Single layer.
2. Multilayer.

Made from polyvinyl chloride. Single-layer panels imitate brick or masonry, tiles from expensive varieties of basalt and granite.

Thanks to modern equipment, the drawing looks natural. It is almost impossible to distinguish artificial material from natural material from a distance of several meters.

PVC panels are made with fillers that significantly increase the performance of the material.

The faux leather is very strong and durable. The panels are made of non-combustible material, practically do not lose their shape under the influence of sunlight.

PVC wall panels can be mounted both on a clean base and on a frame with insulation.

Multilayer

Another name for a thermopanel. They should not be confused with. Sandwiches are used to build walls and partitions. Thermal panels are used only for cladding load-bearing walls, they cannot be used as a full-fledged building material.

The multilayer panel consists of a solid insulation and a protective outer layer. For insulation, extruded polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, foam glass, basalt mineral wool are used.

The protective and decorative layer must be durable, wear-resistant and beautiful. The coating of thermal panels is made of stone-based plaster, concrete-polymer, concrete-polymer monolithic finishing layer.

How to sheathe a house with facade panels with your own hands

Facade panels can be mounted in several different ways. The choice depends on several factors:

• Foundation condition. On a well-prepared wall, the panels are mounted without the use of glue or mounting foam on self-tapping dowels and anchors. If the base is uneven, then the panels are mounted on glue or building foam. The method of mounting on the frame is also used. It consists in creating an even and solid base from metal profiles or wooden slats for the installation of single-layer or multi-layer panels.
• On walls sheathed with insulation sheets, single-layer facade panels are installed only along the frame. This technology is called a ventilated facade. Between the insulation and the cladding there is a narrow layer of air. This is a ventilation duct for ventilation from the inside of the suspended facade.

Installation is preceded by the calculation of the material and preparatory work

The calculation is made according to the sketch of the facade. A scan is drawn on the sketch indicating all overall dimensions, the number of windows and doors. For an exact calculation, it is better to contact a sales consultant. In large stores, they are taught to quickly complete the calculation.

Preparatory work begins with the rehabilitation of the facade and the identification of problem areas. Then the surface is cleaned of the remnants of the old coating. Everything that is hung on the facade from the outside is dismantled. Large cracks and chips are embroidered and sealed with a cement-sand mortar.

If the facade is affected by a fungus or mold, then disinfection is carried out. The most effective way to pickle is to impregnate the surface with copper sulfate soil.

Copper sulfate is poisonous. It is dangerous for the human body, so the work is carried out in a respirator and rubber gloves.

Do-it-yourself installation of facade thermal panels

They can be installed in two ways:

1. Without glue.
2. For glue.

Without glue

An absolutely level ground is required. One panel slides over the other and snaps onto a special lock. This method of installation reduces the overall time and laboriousness of the work.

Before fixing the thermal panels in any way, marking is performed. With the help of a laser level or a level on the facade, the horizon line is determined. It may or may not coincide with the blind area line. If the lines match, then there will be no problems. The mark of the junction of the panel and the base is beaten off with a sandpaper.

If the house is on a hillock and the blind area is not horizontal, then the starting line is drawn parallel to the blind area. The second dimensional line is reflected along the horizon level, at a height equal to the size of the panel from the bottom point of the facade. Thus, cutting the bottom of the panels of the first row, the top goes strictly horizontally.

The panels are cut with a grinder with a diamond wheel. Goggles are used to protect the eyes. The grinder cuts through only the protective coating. To cut the insulation, an ordinary hacksaw is used for wood.

The starting profile is set at the bottom mark. It is attached to the wall with dowel-screws.

Installation starts from the corner of the house. To fix the facade panels, dish-shaped dowels with a large flat head are used. Under each dowel in the insulation, a shallow hole is drilled for the diameter of the head. So that after installation the dowel is flush with the insulation and does not interfere with the joint of the panels.

For additional fastening of the panels, self-tapping dowels are used. Under them, holes are drilled in the seams between the tiles. After installation, the traces of fastening can be easily matched in color to the wall.

After fixing the first panel, the second one joins it on the lock. Thus, the entire facade is tiled. The outer corners between the panels are closed with additional elements.

If they are not, then the corner ends are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. After the installation is completed, the joint is sealed with putty. To connect the elements, you do not need to press hard on them. If it does not work, then one of the panels is skewed or there is a tubercle on the wall. Both shortcomings are eliminated, continue installation.

On glue

Installation of panels on glue is relevant when the base is wavy with deviations of 10-30 mm in the horizontal or vertical plane. The glue acts as a leveling material. After finishing the facade, there are no air gaps between the wall and the panels.

Marking and sawing of facade thermal panels is carried out according to the algorithm for the dry method.

The starting profile is fixed along the lower horizontal line. This is the backbone of the façade system. To improve the connection of the panel with the profile, mounting foam is applied to the shelf. The first row of panels is mounted on the foam.

Installation starts from the bottom corner of the house. To install thermal panels, a special glue is used, which is purchased together with the cladding elements. If it is not available, then a dry mix is ​​​​suitable for mounting foam or mineral insulation on a brick, concrete or aerated concrete base.

The glue is applied in a thin layer to the entire surface of the panel using a notched trowel. For additional fastening, dish-shaped dowels are used. When joining the panels, it is necessary to ensure that the size of the seams between the tiles at the joints does not differ from the neighboring ones.

All joints of the place and the place of installation of dowel-screws are sealed with putty in the color of the surface.

It must be remembered that the material from which the wall is made affects the selection of insulation for the thermal panel. It is better to sheathe such porous structures as foam concrete, silicate blocks with thermal panels based on mineral heaters.

Good moisture wicking. For brick and concrete walls, styrofoam-based cladding can be used.

Installation technology of external wall panels

We will talk about the construction of a facade of single-layer facing elements made of polyvinyl chloride. The panels are mounted on an uneven base on a frame made of galvanized metal profiles.

Mounted at almost any temperature. Installation is prohibited only in severe frosts, when the thermometer drops below -15 ° C. Facade cladding work consists of several stages:

1. Training.
2. Fastening of facade panels.

Training

Substrate preparation work must be completed prior to installation of the load-bearing frame. Extra elements are removed from the facade, such as external. Ebb and flow are removed from the windows. If the facade is wooden, then it must be treated with an antiseptic to inhibit the processes of decay and the development of fungus. If the facade is stone or concrete, then such processing is not necessary.

Facing without insulation does not provide. If planned, then wiring is carried out at the preparation stage.

Crate for mounting panels

The crate for facade panels can be made of wood or U-shaped profile. The second option is preferable, since the galvanized profile does not corrode and does not collapse. It does not need additional protection.

On a flat base, it is allowed to mount the profile directly on a bare wall. If the facade is curved, then a frame is mounted under the facade panels.

Frame and load-bearing profiles. With the help of brackets, the frame is leveled. The profile is mounted on a pre-marked surface of the facade. Marking is carried out using a laser level and a measuring tape

The first horizontal element is installed 50 mm from the ground. A starting bar for facade panels is attached to it. The installation step of the vertical guides is 500-600 mm, and the horizontal ones depend on the height of the cladding element. Horizontal guides are made of J-profile. For fastening, self-tapping dowels with a pitch of 300-400 mm are used.

Facade panel fasteners

Installation of facade panels starts from the bottom corner strictly from left to right and from top to bottom. The first row is installed on the starting bar. The left end, which goes to the corner, is cut exactly at a right angle.

Then it is fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the nail holes and the body of the wall. The second panel is connected to the first one up to the junction of the temperature compensators and fixed in the same way. To increase the strength of the structure, the panels can be glued to the starting bar with mounting foam.

The device of the facade of single-layer and multi-layer panels can be done by hand. The work is not particularly difficult, subject to the rules and technologies.

Facade panels will be complemented by a wide range of additional elements that allow you to hide small flaws of a novice installer.

Similar articles

Facing the building protects the house from numerous external influences. Today, more and more often, the installation of facade panels is used for new and old buildings - it is beautiful and reliable. Is it possible to do the work yourself, we will analyze in the article.

Do not confuse facade panels and siding, although their purpose is the same - facing the exterior walls of the house. Facade slabs appeared relatively recently and are actively replacing other methods of protecting buildings from atmospheric and other influences. They are thicker and more durable than siding. Materials for the production of such a shelter for the outer walls have also significantly expanded the range. Today, facade slabs are used both for full coverage of the house and for basement cladding. Their demand is easy to explain: such a design of the facade replaces many natural materials, but is much cheaper.

The house, finished with facade slabs, is protected and beautiful

There are numerous types of facade slabs on the market:

• Polyvinyl chloride

An inexpensive cladding option that can be mounted on a lightweight frame or directly on the wall, taking into account the ideal surface. A variety of shapes and colors can please any owner. The disadvantage is the lack of vapor permeability and fragility. Frost resistance is not too high, so it is not worth using such a cladding in the Far North. Many types of vinyl boards are flammable, and most emit harmful fumes when burned.

• Fiber cement

They are made of concrete and wood fibers with the use of synthetic additives, which are a binding component. Durable, environmentally friendly, vapor-permeable, non-flammable fiber-cement facade cladding has won the market in many countries. Imitation of natural materials not only in external coincidence, but also in terms of quality characteristics. The material "under the tree" has the warmth of natural wood, but does not burn or rot.

• Wood fiber boards

They are used mainly for light country houses and cottages, as they have significant drawbacks: combustibility, susceptibility to decay. But these are one of the most frost-resistant materials - up to 100 cycles, they do not crack and are environmentally friendly.

• Made of metal with PVC lining

They are made of galvanized steel or vinyl-coated aluminum. Easy to use and install, especially cassette types. Durable, not subject to decay, well protect the house from noise, dust and moisture. The disadvantage is that the material does not breathe, the outer coating is prone to burning, a considerable cost.

• From porcelain stoneware

This facade material is highly durable, resistant to all types of fungi and damage. Porcelain stoneware slabs look expensive and stylish. Such facades give the impression of prosperity and protect the house from any outside influences. Lack of panel weight. It is quite difficult to carry out cladding alone.

• Glass panels

We used to associate glass facades with large shopping centers or office buildings, but glass is increasingly in demand among those who want to give the walls of their mansion a stylish, and sometimes fantastic look. Impact-resistant, often bullet-proof glass of class A and B is used. Reinforced glass, triplex, glass from foamed glass granulate are used. The advantages of such walls are in their beauty and unusualness. The disadvantage is that it is difficult to install and expensive.

• Thermal panels

The design of the thermal panel is a thick layer of polyurethane foam or polystyrene, covered with ceramic tiles to protect the material from external influences. Such protective facades have a lot of advantages: high heat and noise insulation, durability, frost resistance, impact resistance. The simplicity of the tenon-groove fasteners makes it easy to mount such a cladding.

• Sandwich panels

They are two layers of metal, between which a plastic layer and a vapor barrier are pressed. This is an excellent sound insulator. Withstands any temperature fluctuations. Such plates can have a different surface. Not subject to corrosion and fungus. Operating temperatures from -180 to +100 degrees.

Variety of exterior wall cladding

Pros and cons of installation

Finishing the building with facade slabs has more pluses than minuses, and therefore we will immediately say about the disadvantage. The fastening of the facade panel is always carried out on a special frame, and therefore the manufacture of such facades requires knowledge and certain experience. In addition, the cost of many materials is quite high. The advantages of wall cladding with these finishing materials are obvious:

• Protection of the house from exposure to high and low temperatures;
• Long service life of 20 years or more. Most materials have a service life of 50 years or more;
• Protects walls from fungus and decay;
• Resistant to sudden changes in temperature;
• Most of the plates are made of non-combustible and environmentally friendly material;
• Resistant to corrosion damage.

Before you get started, there are a few important tips to keep in mind.

1. Always lay from left to right and from bottom to top.
2. The need to withstand temperature gaps determines the ability of the material to expand. For example, at 1°C the gap will be 15 mm, at 32°C - 10 mm.
3. Fastening can also be done at low temperatures, but then you need to keep the plates warm for at least a day to reduce brittleness and increase the flexibility of the material.
4. Due to temperature fluctuations in the plates, small deformation processes will occur in linear dimensions. In order to prevent deformation changes, use fasteners with a smaller diameter than the holes in the plate.
5. Holes in the wall for fastening must be made at least 10 mm.
6. Never mount more than two corners at the same time in order to be able to fit.
7. Before starting work, you need to level the walls. Large distortions may not be saved even by a metal frame. If this is difficult to do, then make a crate on brackets and fill the space with insulation.

Installation of light facade panels

The first step will be the manufacture of the crate. It can be of several types, but the most important thing is to decide if you need insulation under the facade elements or not. It must be remembered that even if you live in a warm area, insulation serves not only to retain heat, but also protects from heat. It takes on the moisture of evaporation and transfers the dew point beyond the walls of the house. Modern heaters are noise absorbers and carry part of the protective function of the facade system. This is only the main part of the advantages of organizing a facade with heaters. True, there is a drawback: the material has a cost of 200 rubles per square meter. On the other hand, if the walls require quality straightening, you cannot do without it. It is better to follow the advice and design a good ventilated facade on your house, then straightening the walls is not required.

Sheaths are of two types

Manufacturing of crates

The crate can be made of metal and wood. For heavy slabs, such as those made of natural stone, glass or porcelain stoneware, the framework is required from a metal profile.

Let's take a metal grill as a basis. If you live in a warm area, then vertical planks can be dug into the ground, and in areas with freezing soil, you need to measure at least 40 cm from the ground and start attaching the planks in increments of 91 cm or slightly less than the size of the insulation. When fastening plates without insulation, horizontal strips are mounted to vertical strips without protrusions "flush", the strapping step will be 46 cm.

Strapping plan

We proceed to the installation of the starting profile. It is mounted above the tide, if any. In the case of a ventilated facade, the ebb is installed under the J-profile, into which the lower layer of insulation is attached. Installation of the starting profile begins along the bottom bar of the frame strictly horizontally. Don't forget to measure the corner panels. Usually their sides are 10 cm, so the starting profile is mounted with a 10 cm indent from the corner. If the lower edge of the slab requires trimming, then the starting profile is not used, and the lining is screwed or nailed directly to the crate.

Lathing with starting profile

Installation of the first row

Attach the corner first. Now move the first panel along the starting profile to the left until it is fully connected to the corner. Note that the mounting pins must mate correctly. Fix the plate and fill the joint with sealant. Move on to the next plate, moving from left to right. Cut the boards if necessary, taking care not to cut more than one field joint. The elements are cut with a grinder or a saw with rare teeth. Adjust the saw stroke to avoid chipping. Cut the last panel to size.

Installation of the first row

Subsequent rows are fastened according to the scheme of the first row. For "brick" facades, it is necessary to move the slab relative to another in order to get a natural pattern of a brick wall.

Shaping internal corners

To mount internal corners, you can use a J-profile or cut the slabs according to the size and pattern. Take two profiles and install in the inner corner of the building. The fastening step is 15-20 cm.

The last row of panels ends with the fastening of the J-profile and the ebb.

Installing a J-profile for internal corners

Do-it-yourself installation of heavy facade panels in stages

Installation of heavy facade elements is carried out in a different way. It is impossible to simply fix a fiberboard or porcelain stoneware to the starting profile without additional fasteners. Therefore, the course of work is as follows.

• First of all, we design the crate. It is necessary to calculate the number and types of profile strips, brackets and fasteners.

Important! Do not use a galvanized profile for plasterboard! The facade is too heavy for this metal. You need to purchase a special reinforced profile.

Wall surface prepared for fixing the facing material

We install the brackets on which the vertical profile will then be attached. The size of the working part of the bracket is calculated from the thickness of the insulation. After laying the thermal insulation, we install vertical profiles. Mount the main and intermediate profile. The main one should be located at the junction of the plates, and the intermediate one in the middle. The step calculation is carried out based on the architectural features of the building project and the wind load: the size between the profiles is usually 40-60 cm. The horizontal planks have a step corresponding to the dimensions of the panel.

• The formation of external corners is usually already provided by the manufacturer. This can be done without a butt-to-butt cut or with a cut. A metal corner can be superimposed on the corner, which will need to be painted. In any case, the kit offers sealant and paint to match the color of the main cladding.

Important! During installation, do not forget to leave 3 mm between the plates for thermal expansion! The ends are protected with a special sealant, which should be included.

Corner mounting

Instructions for fastening cassette facade plates

Metal or composite cassette slabs for external cladding are a very convenient and cost-effective material for self-cladding.

Important! Some cassettes made of composites can warp and fade under intense sun, so be sure to read the instructions before buying! The material must comply with GOST.

External and internal view of the cassette

Mounting of cassettes is a whole structure, which includes a metal profile, internal and external corners, platbands, flashings, slopes, fasteners. Such frames greatly facilitate self-mounting. Work can be done with the help of internal and external fasteners. The visible principle is carried out through special holes with which each cassette is equipped. Usually these are steel curved tiles. The hidden method is typical for cassettes with curved bases. They are inserted into the grooves, like a Lego constructor. For such a system, the installation of an L-shaped profile is required.

Flush-mounted cassette

Video master class on the installation of facade panels with your own hands

For a better understanding of the installation work, we bring to your attention a film about fixing vinyl panels yourself.

Installation of vinyl panels

There are many ways to decorate the exterior walls of a building, we have shown one of them. Do-it-yourself installation of facade panels can be done even alone.

They are small sheets that are installed on any buildings made of brick, wood, foam concrete, etc.

They do not create a large load on the base and serve to protect the exterior of the building from aggressive environments and weather conditions. Each buyer can choose for himself products according to his wallet and taste.

DIY installation

To date, there are three ways to install panels that attract each consumer with their task:

On flat surfaces

This method is economical and the easiest to use., it should be noted that the installation is carried out on perfectly flat walls. Otherwise, the curvature of the laying will spoil the look of the house and lose its protective properties. For frameless cladding, it is necessary to purchase with internal insulation.

Attach the canvas to the wall with glue. If the wall is smooth, then you can mount it on a special adhesive mass, a large number of them are now sold, the main thing is that it be frost-resistant.

Using a toothed spatula, the mixture is applied to the surface and the plate is laid, in the same way, the second one is installed. You do not need to make a large layer, the panel will float. The level checks the vertical and horizon, after which the size of the seam is fixed with tile crosses.

It is important that the glue does not clog the seam, it must be rubbed with another substance.

On uneven walls

First of all, an unevenness is revealed, which is corrected with the help of suspensions by exposing a beam or profile along the edges of the building and to the required level.

In order for the entire plane to be even, the lace is pulled onto the profiles already set along the edges, which will also serve as guides for the rest of the metal profiles.

A panel is attached to the frame with a self-tapping screw, and a heater is laid in the created void. This operation must be carried out over the entire plane.

The method of attachment is similar to the method of the second option, but only between the insulation and the panel there is a gap for the circulation of air masses. requires a special fastening system. The necessary fastening is included with the panels.

Tools for work:

• roulette;
• building level;
• Bulgarian;
• lace;
• screwdriver;
• drill;

For the wet method, you only need a tape measure, a hacksaw or grinder, a spatula and a bucket for mortar.

Varieties

glass panels

Most often, this material is used in the decoration of office buildings or shopping centers. It can also be used in a particular case when decorating a country cottage with extraordinary architecture.

Panels can consist of different grades of glass:

• bulletproof and shockproof;
• reinforced or laminated;
• crystallized;
• glass granulite;

The main advantage of such panels is a unique facade and good UV protection, as well as excellent sound and heat insulation. Disadvantages in the high price and complexity of installation.

Under stone and brick

These are the most common models installed on the basement, the whole house or individual parts. Panels are made on the basis of polypropylene resins.

After installation, the facade looks realistic, as if made of real stone or brick. In addition, you do not need to resort to the services of a bricklayer, this work can be done independently. The material is UV and weather resistant. Accessibility and aesthetics allow each consumer to purchase this building material.

Facade made of porcelain stoneware

A good product that can withstand shock loads in strong wind currents. Wear-resistant, do not fade or fade, fireproof.

Frost-resistant with great strength. If trouble happens and somehow the panel is lost, it can be easily replaced. It is attached in several ways, but it is better to use gluing with a two-component polyurethane adhesive. The disadvantages of this material are low noise insulation and high thermal conductivity.

Fiber cement facade systems

Panels of this brand are able to self-clean due to the inorganic film. The product consists of cement and minerals by 90%, the rest is cellulose fibers. Such panels are able to imitate different building materials.

• fiber cement plate;
• sealing gasket size 45/50/15;
• protective film against wind;
• INSI panels;
• GVL sheet;
• vapor barrier;

The advantages of this system include the absence of corrosion and decay, high noise and heat insulation properties, durability, and frost resistance.

The disadvantages include low strength and painting after installation.

Hinged sandwich panels

The multi-row sandwich construction consists of two sheets of metal along the edges and a heater in the middle, protected by a vapor barrier fabric. The outer side consists of an alloy of aluminum, magnesium and manganese.

Imitation can be different: wood, plaster. The product has frost resistance and temperature fluctuations from -180 to +100. Environmentally fireproof. Service life over 35 years.

Among the disadvantages - freezing of joints at low temperatures and requires careful handling, it is worth avoiding impacts that can damage the panel.

Wood fiber

Split wood, glued under pressure, forms the base of the panel. Paint acts as a protective layer. Cloths can be faced with both polymeric material and veneer.

They are easy to work with, well amenable to drilling and cutting. Excellent quality is frost resistance, thermal insulation. Disadvantages: up to 15 years of operation, flammable and water permeable.

Vinyl

Created on the basis of polymers with the addition of dyes, they are able to carry a different texture and color. The surface can be smooth, perforated or imitation wood. The material is fireproof, easy to cut, does not rot, waterproof. Operating period - 30 years. At low temperatures, it cracks from wind and vibration.

metal sheets

Panels are made of galvanized steel or aluminum coated with a polymer. The front part can be smooth or with small perforations. Weight per m2 will be 10 kg. This material is rich in advantages, among which are durability, alkaline-acid resistance, fire safety, moisture resistance, does not rust, frost-resistant, high sound absorption coefficient.

Minus - low thermal insulation of steel.

The product is made of foamed polyurethane with rolled marble chips and a decorative part of the clinker. Panel colors may vary. Able to withstand many frosty cycles, temperature difference from -50 to + 110. Completely fireproof, waterproof, do not rot.

The term set by the manufacturer is 50 years.