How to plant trees and shrubs in spring. All about the autumn planting of fruit trees and shrubs Video: tree transplantation
When is the best time to repot trees and shrubs? Consider how and when you can transplant fruit trees, ornamental trees and shrubs, as well as conifers.
The end of summer - the beginning of autumn is a good time for planting and transplanting plants, both fruit and ornamental. In order for new plants to take root well and successfully overwinter, you need to follow some regulations.
- Plant plants with an open root system from the first decade of April to the second decade of May and from the second decade of August to the first decade of September. When planted at this time, the plants have time to take root and overwinter well.
- When planting, cut off inflorescences and part of the leaves from plants, especially large leaf blades, to prevent excessive evaporation and loss of moisture.
- Digging and landing in a new place is desirable to carry out in one day.
- After planting, transplanting, the plants are watered and treated with growth stimulants.
- Do not plant plants together with the container, carefully remove the container without destroying the lump.
- Do not deepen the root neck of trees and shrubs, especially grafted forms.
When is the best time to transplant fruit trees?
Fruit trees are best planted and transplanted at the age of 1 - 5 years. If older plants are transplanted, then planting is carried out with a clod of earth, approximately equal to the diameter of the crown, packed in a chain-link mesh or burlap, as well as using special equipment. This technology is called "landing large-sized".
- It is carried out in late autumn, winter and early spring periods, with the exception of summer.
When boarding and transplanting fruit plants with an open root system must be observed high humidity in the area of \u200b\u200bthe root system so that small overgrown roots do not dry out. root system it needs to be shortened by about 1/3 so that the roots develop better. When transplanting fruit, it is also necessary to prune the aerial parts in order to balance the crown and root system.
When planting plants in containers, it is important not to destroy the lump and not to deepen the root neck in order to avoid the formation a large number overgrowth.
When is the best time to transplant ornamental trees and shrubs?
Most high performance by survival - in plants with a closed root system. They can be planted at any time, with the exception of winter.
When planting plants with an open root system, it is necessary to slightly trim the aboveground and underground parts. After that, the plants need regular, but moderate watering. It is advisable to carry out 2-3 sprayings of "Epin" or "Zircon" on the leaves with an interval of 7-10 days - to relieve post-transplant stress in plants. In the first winter after planting for all crops, a light
shelter so that the plants overwinter better and take root.
When is the best time to transplant conifers?
They can also be planted at any time, provided that the plants are grown in containers. Open root system coniferous plants practically do not implement, since their survival rate is extremely low. When planting, the plants are watered under the root and treated with stimulants containing iron and silicon - Ferrovit and Siliplant.
Transfer fruit trees autumn allows the root system to acclimatize in a new place and take root effectively. In the spring, the seedling will “wake up” and begin to develop and grow properly. best age seedlings of fruit trees for transplantation - three to five years.
When is the best time to transplant fruit trees?
The ideal transplant time is the second half of autumn, the month of October. During this period the temperature environment low enough that the fruit tree will not sprout new shoots. And at the same time, it is still warm enough for the tree to take root in a new piece of soil.
How to prepare for a transplant
Preparatory stage:
- Three to five buckets of water are poured under the fruit tree. The soil around the seedling should become wet and stick to the root system.
- The trunk is dug around at a distance of up to seventy centimeters, tapering downwards with a cone to the same depth.
- A fruit tree seedling is carefully removed, keeping a clod of earth around its underground part. The seedling is tied with burlap or wrapped with a piece of polyethylene, carefully fixed with a rope or wire.
How to transplant a fruit tree
transplant technology:
- A pit is arranged for planting, which is thirty centimeters wide and deeper than the earthen cone around the root system.
- The pit is covered with top dressing, which consists of a mixture of compost, fertile soil and peat.
- A seedling of a fruit tree is put on top dressing, crushed with soil, the roots are straightened.
- The area between the trunk and roots ( root collar) should be level with the ground.
- A pit with an established fruit tree is covered in a couple of stages, pouring several buckets of water.
- If the seedling is too thin, it is fixed to the stake.
- The area around the fruit tree is sprinkled with earth to prevent the roots from being exposed during the shrinkage of the soil, and then mulched.
How to transplant shrubs.
If you are bored with the familiar look of your garden, you can always make interesting changes by transplanting ornamental shrubs to a new place. And the reason may be - just a change of mood or if the plant has grown and you have found a new one for it cozy place in your garden.
Transplantation of "oversized" planting material practiced in world gardening for a very long time. The need to transplant shrubs appears if you want to change the appearance of the garden or transplant the plant to a more suitable place for it. In addition, shrubs are transplanted if they have grown strongly and there is not enough space for them in this area, however, I already said this at the very beginning.
The time is recommended to transplant in spring or autumn when they are at rest. Plants transplanted at this time take root better. In the spring they are transplanted after the soil opens, and in the fall at such a time that they have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. Before transplanting shrubs with curly shoots, tie them with braid or put a bag on the shrub. It is easiest to transplant shrubs that grow in the garden in one place for no more than a year. Otherwise, the transplant will be very complicated. If possible, refrain from transplanting adult shrubs, as such specimens do not tolerate transplantation well and take root worse.
Shrubs take root well in a new place if you prepare them for transplanting. Transplant them at the right time and provide them with proper care.
We select a suitable site in the garden. This place should fit all necessary requirements both light and soil characteristics. Before planting, we carry out abundant pruning. If the place where you want to transplant the shrub is close to where it currently grows, then the plant can be moved without packing its roots. If you need to move a bush a considerable distance, then I recommend packing its root ball in dense fabric. This will help us not to lose that soil that forms a lump on the roots of the plant, and it will also help to store the shrub for a while if you cannot plant it right away.
To prepare for transplanting shrubs, I advise you to approach this issue with all responsibility. A month before transplanting a shrub, use a shovel to draw a circle around it. Before transplanting, we water the shrub well so that it is easier to dig it out, and the roots are saturated with moisture. Open the root ball from all sides or carefully dig it out, being careful not to damage the roots. Then we dig a landing hole at the proposed site for the future planting of the shrub. The pit should be twice as wide as the root ball itself. earth at the bottom landing pit will need to be loosened. We plant our shrub at the same depth as it grew before transplanting. Form a watering circle and water the plant. Also water the plant when the soil dries to a depth of 5 cm. After watering, we mulch the soil with a thick layer of suitable mulching material (cm one hundred mulch).
In the spring, a few weeks after planting, new shoots will appear on the bushes. At the same time, the plant develops new roots. In order for the plant to develop well in the future, feed it. Can be added to water liquid fertilizer and carry out root feeding. If you transplanted a bush to a windy place, take care of a reliable support, we install the support in such a way as not to damage the roots of our shrub. As soon as the shrub takes root, the support can be removed; for the rooted shrub, the wind is no longer a hindrance.
And to sum it up: the ideal time to transplant is early spring, as soon as the soil opens up, before the plant has started to grow. Plants take root faster with regular watering and cool weather. In cold climates and areas with clay soil The plant is best planted in the spring. We transplant in the autumn, this is an alternative time for transplanting shrubs. It is very important to plant the plant at such a time that they have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. If it rains in the fall, repot the plants after the soil has dried out. That's all the secrets of a good shrub transplant. Good luck to you.
How and when to transplant trees and bushes
Is it possible to transplant a tree or a bush in the summer?
Trees in case emergency can be transplanted at any time of the year, observing the following rules:
When digging up a tree, its strong roots are first exposed at the greatest possible distance. Then they dig a semicircular ditch on one side of the tree, the width is half the length of the roots.
If there are no longer large thick roots, then they dig under the tree and cut off the main core of the roots.
When a tree is dug up on one side, then all the roots are cut off from the opposite side, tilting the tree to the side from which it has already been dug up. Then the tree is taken out of the ground, having previously wrapped it with burlap or tarpaulin and pulled it together with ropes.
Planting holes should be twice as large as the roots will take up space. The roots are straightened in a horizontal position, covered with earth. When backfilling, the tree is shaken if possible, and after backfilling, the earth is trampled down and watered abundantly.
The weak part of the tree should face south.
There is another way to transplant trees in the garden.
To do this, a hole of the appropriate size is dug, but not less than 1.5 m in diameter, and half filled with water (the method of planting in a mash). Then earth and humus are added. All this is shaken up until an earthen mash is formed, into which a tree is planted. The hole is then filled in and watered again. The talker is needed so that all the voids between the roots are filled with soil. Stakes (preferably on three sides) are placed further into untouched soil and with the help of ropes strengthen the tree. A tree planted in this way must be watered 1-2 times a week, depending on the weather and soil conditions.
After planting, and even better before transplanting, all branches of the crown are cut in half, the roots damaged by a shovel are smoothly cut with a knife.
After transplanting, it is advisable to tie the trunk and main branches with moss to protect the tree from sunlight. It is useful to mulch the soil around the tree with straw manure to maintain its moisture.
Nevertheless, the autumn method of transplantation is more preferable for which the time has come in the country now.
Reader Tips:
How to transplant a large, large tree (krupnomer)
Having received a plot, the newly-minted gardener seeks to plant everything at once. And more! But ten years pass, and incorrectly planted apple trees turn into a forest. This is where the problem of choice arises: either an ax or a transplant. And the tree is already multi-meter ...
Transplanting large-sized trees (this is what trees older than 10 years are called) without the appropriate equipment is not at all an easy task. But with two or three pairs of hands possible. Dig around the tree within a radius of 0.6-0.8 m from the trunk, chop off the roots. Then, “hand-to-hand” (or with a winch), lay the tree on its side (without lifting!), Cutting down the vertical roots by at least half a meter. Backfill the resulting hole flush with the surrounding soil. Then spread a tarp (or something similar) in this place. Turn the root ball over onto the bedding, turning the tree upright. And then drag your newcomer to a new place of residence.
My husband and I transplanted trees in November - a cherry tree at the age of 8 and an apple tree at the age of 15. The place where they grew was shaded, and we decided to move them to the sun. There was a risk, of course. But, as they say, who does not risk ...
Holes were prepared in advance, and deeper than those in which our trees were originally planted. Humus was poured at the bottom, necessarily two shovels of clay each (there is no stagnant water in our area, and clay retains moisture), a little sprinkled with earth.
They dug up the trees - they dug from the trunk at a distance of 80 cm, chopped off the long roots. Barely dragged "settlers" to a new place. We planted them 10 cm deeper than usual, and made a bowl-type recess to rainwater flowed right under the trees. Finally watered heavily. It was in the last days of November. December was wet, with occasional showers. Perhaps because of this, the trees did not get sick. Have been waiting for spring.
Imagine our surprise when in the spring we saw swollen buds, and then abundant flowering- cherry and apple trees have taken root!
In the spring, I watered the apple tree in 2-3 buckets, or even more, in this "bowl", as it needed moisture so that the flowers would not fade. And in the summer, during fruiting, watered on dry days. I did it in the evenings. When setting and ripening fruits, moisture is needed. I took water from a pond, it is not far from our garden.
They worked, watered, and it settled down. Seedlings benefit from water in a hot summer - it is absorbed into the ground, moisturizing it abundantly, and everything around grows. You just need to make sure that the puddle does not stand under the tree. If your site is too low, I advise you to make drainage at the bottom of the pit so that the roots do not rot.
Below are other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with your own hands"
Garden and dacha › Tips for a summer resident › How and when to transplant trees
When is the best time to transplant trees and shrubs?
When is the best time to repot trees and shrubs? Consider how and when you can transplant fruit trees, ornamental trees and shrubs, as well as conifers.
The end of summer - the beginning of autumn is a good time for planting and transplanting plants, both fruit and ornamental. In order for new plants to take root well and successfully overwinter, you need to follow some rules.
When is the best time to transplant fruit trees?
Fruit trees are best planted and transplanted at the age of 1 - 5 years. If older plants are transplanted, then planting is carried out with a clod of earth, approximately equal to the diameter of the crown, packed in a chain-link mesh or burlap, as well as using special equipment. This technology is called "landing large-sized".
- It is carried out in late autumn, winter and early spring periods, with the exception of summer.
When planting and transplanting fruit plants with an open root system, it is necessary to maintain high humidity in the area of the root system so that small overgrown roots do not dry out. The root system needs to be shortened by about 1/3 so that the roots develop better. When transplanting fruit, it is also necessary to prune the aerial parts in order to balance the crown and root system.
When planting plants in containers, it is important not to destroy the lump and not to deepen the root neck in order to avoid the formation of a large number of shoots.
When is the best time to transplant ornamental trees and shrubs?
The highest rates of survival are in plants with a closed root system. They can be planted at any time, with the exception of winter. Read more about planting seedlings in containers.
When planting plants with an open root system, it is necessary to slightly trim the aboveground and underground parts. After that, the plants need regular, but moderate watering. It is advisable to carry out 2-3 sprayings of "Epin" or "Zircon" on the leaves with an interval of 7-10 days - to relieve post-transplant stress in plants. In the first winter after planting for all crops, a light
shelter so that the plants overwinter better and take root.
When is the best time to transplant conifers?
They can also be planted at any time, provided that the plants are grown in containers. With an open root system, coniferous plants are practically not sold, since their survival rate is extremely low. When planting, the plants are watered under the root and treated with stimulants containing iron and silicon - Ferrovit and Siliplant.
More interesting articles on the site:
Transplanting currants to a new place in autumn and spring when possible
AT garden practice often arise Situations that require a currant transplant to a new location. Most often this is due to an error during site selection, depletion of the soil under the bush, or redevelopment of the site.
Transplanting an adult shrub to another place - Great stress for the plant, which is accompanied by soreness and often leads to his death.
Therefore, the procedure must be carried out taking into account biological features and annual cycle of currant.
- Stages correct transplant adult bush
- Site selection and preparation
- Care after
When is it better to transplant currants to a new place: in autumn or spring, in what month?
Which month is better? The timing of transplanting currants depends entirely on climatic conditions region. In regions with severe winters with a decrease in air temperature below 30 ° C, spring transplantation is preferable.
But at the same time, it is important to take into account the features of the annual cycle of a crop that enters the growing season early. After the start of sap flow, the shrub will receive a double load, trying to take root and at the same time increasing the green mass.
spring transplant carried out after complete thawing of the soil, temperature rise to + 1 ° C and until the buds swell. This limits the timing of transplantation, reduces the time for quiet rooting to three weeks.
The timing of transplanting currants is completely dependent on the climatic conditions of the region.
Favorable factors for autumn transplant much more currants. This is a stable temperature until the first frost, which gives time for the roots to adapt to a new place.
In addition, there are much more nutrients in currant cells in autumn and downward current prevails, which contribute to the rapid healing of root wounds and give strength for recovery.
Therefore, in the middle and southern regions gardening shrub Prefer to transplant in autumn. At the same time, it is important to determine the most accurate dates, at least three weeks should remain before the first frost.
The ideal time for transplantation is the period between September 10-15, it is at this time that the most active growth of absorbed roots is observed. This factor significantly increases the survival rate of currants.
Stages of correct transplantation of an adult bush
The basis of a successful transplant of an adult shrub - right choice places, preparation of soil and shrubs.
Site selection and preparation
red and white currant- thermophilic plants. For them, leveled areas are selected, oriented to the south or south-west direction. In such areas, the soil is warmed by the sun's rays, well aerated and water does not stagnate.
Black and green currant less whimsical plants. Good indicators of a stable harvest are noted when planting on the slopes of the northern or northeastern direction. Short-term shading is acceptable.
The best predecessors of currants are tilled crops that help clear the area from rhizomatous weeds. These are potatoes, beets, corn, buckwheat and beans.
Unsuitable for growing lowland currants and closed hollows, where cold air stagnates and humidity is increased. This contributes to the development of fungal diseases and the appearance of root rot.
Selected location in early spring dig to a depth of 40 cm with fertilization per 1 m2:
- Compost or manure 10 kg;
- Double superphosphate 10 g;
- Potassium chloride 7 g.
In spring or autumn, a pit is prepared for transplanting: 40 cm deep and 70 cm wide, fill it with a substrate
In the summer, in August, the site is dug up again and form a hole for the bush. For spring transplantation, the site is prepared in the fall.
Determining the size of the pit, they are guided by the volume of the bush. In most cases Enough depth 40 cm and width 60 cm. For tall and remontant varieties a depth of 60-70 cm is required. The distance between the bushes is at least 1.5 meters.
After digging, the hole is 1/3 filled with substrate from mixed components:
- Upper layer garden soil from the pit;
- Rotted manure or compost 10 kg;
- Superphosphate 300 g (for blackcurrant) 200 g (red, white);
- Wood ash 400 g or potassium sulfate 30 g.
For red and white currants, they dig a hole deeper. and at the bottom form a drainage layer of expanded clay or broken brick no more than 15% of the total volume.
After that The pit is spilled with 1-2 buckets of water. Before transplanting the currants inside the pit, all conditions will be created for a comfortable adaptation of the roots.
The substrate is structured and saturated with moisture, and the introduced minerals and organic matter will take on forms that are easy for the plant to assimilate and will not cause root burns.
Currant transplant:
Preparation of red and black currant bushes
During transplantation, the volume of shrub roots will significantly decrease, which makes it difficult to feed the vegetative mass. Therefore, currant 2-3 weeks before the upcoming event, cut, leaving only areas that are significant for fruiting and development. At autumn planting pruning can be done in the spring, before the buds swell.
At the base of the bush there is a branching zone. From it grow strong side shoots, at a height of 30-40 cm, the fruiting zone begins, characterized by weak branching. The shoots here are short, but with developed flower buds, so most of the crop is placed on them.
On top branches are also massively formed fruit buds, which are noticeably weaker and give only small berries. Therefore, the main branches of the shrub are cut off by 1/3, without fear of harm to the next season's crop. After pruning, the average height of the currant should be 45-50 cm.
The productivity of currant fruits is 5 years, It makes no sense to leave obsolete branches on the bush. The development of currants is hampered by tops, shoots and dried branches, they should also be removed.
Do not combine pruning shrubs with transplanting. This is a double load for the plant, which will distribute the forces to heal wounds and adapt roots in a new place. This can cause the death of currants.
Can be transplanted elsewhere!
During transplantation, a groove 30-35 cm deep is dug around the trunk circle, retreating 40 cm from the trunk. After that, you need to gently pull the shrub at the base of the branches, cut off the roots holding with a bayonet shovel.
For the convenience of the event Currant branches are tied like a spindle. Additionally, this will protect against breakage of fruit branches. The excavated shrub is placed on a tarpaulin for transportation to the landing site.
Further Examine the roots, clean them of pests, cut off dried and rotten areas. Carry out the disinfection procedure by placing the roots of the plant in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes.
A shrub with healthy roots is transplanted without pre-treatment.
At the bottom of the landing hole A mound is formed from the prepared substrate and spilled with 1-2 buckets of water. After that, wait until the water is absorbed. Planting in a too humid environment will lead to excessive shrinkage of the shrub, which often causes improper development.
Also take into account that The root neck of the shrub should remain 5 cm below the surface of the substrate.
When transplanting, it must be taken into account that the root neck of the shrub is 5 cm below the surface of the substrate
Regarding the cardinal points, currants are placed similarly to the previous place. Currant roots are distributed over the surface of the mound, preventing unnatural bends upward.
During the backfilling of the roots, make sure that voids do not form., which often cause decay. To do this, during the procedure, the shrub is periodically shaken.
The surface is compacted and A hole for irrigation is formed around the near-stem circle.. Water (20 l) is poured in gradually, waiting for complete absorption. With this watering, the water completely covers the roots, increasing their contact with the soil.
After that, the trunk circle and the hole are mulched with peat, humus or soddy soil.
Care after
After transplanting, the shrub will need the help of a gardener. The soil in the near-stem circle is maintained in a constantly loose state.. This is necessary to create an optimal balance of water and air for proper nutrition and respiration of the roots.
At the base of the bush, loosening is carried out to a depth of 5-6 cm, closer to the watering hole up to 15 cm.
In autumn, the shrub is prepared for winter:
- Clean the near-stem circle from plant residues;
- Lay a layer of mulch from peat or straw at least 15 cm in height;
- Cover the trunk with spruce branches;
- Spraying with fungicides;
- The branches are collected to the center and tied with twine;
- They pull the snow up to the bushes.
Currants are prepared for winter: the trunk circle is cleaned of plant residues, the branches are collected to the center and tied with twine
In the first two weeks after planting, if there is no rain, Will need regular watering every other day. So that the soil is moistened up to 60 cm deep. For this, 3-4 buckets of water are used.
In the first year, currants will not need top dressing. After two weeks, the irrigation time is determined by the state of the soil under the shrub.
The crumbling of the soil into small pieces after squeezing in the hand indicates the need for urgent watering. This indicator is guided throughout the growing season.
Weakened shrubs are most attractive to pests and diseases., which is explained by the temporary loss of stability. Therefore, the task of the gardener in this period is full control over currants, especially in the first year of development.
BUT Insecticides and fungicides can help, which can be prepared from herbal ingredients or purchased ready-made preparations.
How to transplant a currant bush without risk, part 1:
How to transplant a currant bush without risk, part 2.
Replanting, planting trees and shrubsWhen transplanting a tree from one place to anotherpart of the soil and roots is inevitably lost. The situation is aggravated by transportation, especially a long one.
For a successful transplant, it is necessary to dig up a tree with big ball land and less loss of roots. Transportation to a new place should be quick and, if possible, keeping the clod and roots moist, which is why it is recommended to place the seedling in a damp cloth, preferably cotton, such as burlap, so that the roots breathe.
When transplanting, it is desirable that the living conditions in the new place do not differ from the previous ones. For planting a tree, a hole is enough, equal in volume to a coma of earth. To maintain soil acidity and create better conditions osmotic pressure inside the tree, I do not put fertilizer, manure, leaves, grass, sawdust into the pit. Planting fertilizers, in particular chemical fertilizers, can burn the tips of the roots damaged during digging, and leaves, grass, sawdust can destroy the tree with organic acids, because with a lack of oxygen in the pit, it will take years for them to decompose. For the same reason, it is undesirable to dig a wooden stake near a tree as a support; it is better to use a neutral plastic pole, and even better a metal one.
In the event that the soil at the planting site is less loose, for better breathing, the roots of the pit should be made larger in diameter, and the space between the clod of earth and its edges should be covered with earth mixed with sand (approximately 40%). It is also necessary to mix the earth with sand when planting seedlings with bare roots. When transplanting fruit trees lime is poured into the bottom of the pit and mixed with the ground at the rate of 70-100 g per 1 sq. m.
After planting, the tree first of all needs water in abundance, but without excess: one bucket at the time of planting and, on average, one bucket every 3 days for 1-1.5 months.
It has been observed that a tree or shrub is more readily accepted when it is transplanted from nutrient-rich soil to less-saturated soil, of equal quality. And it is much worse for a seedling when transplanted from soil, poor nutrients, into the rich.
You can plant trees at any time of the year, even in winter, but it is better in early spring, immediately after the snow melts. Possible in the summer - preferably small trees with a large clod of earth. In autumn, plantings take root worse, and so that they do not die, you have to regularly water them until frost.
In a new place, trees and shrubs take root quickly and require almost no maintenance. For better growth it is required to fertilize them, but not earlier than a year after planting, most often soluble in water mineral fertilizers(20-30 g per 1 sq. m a year after planting, in subsequent years - 40-50 g per 1 sq. m).
General rules for planting fruit trees.
When digging a hole, the soil of the upper layer, approximately to the depth of a shovel, is dumped in one direction, and denser and less fertile in the other. The depth and width of the pit should be such that straightened roots can freely fit in it. At the bottom of the pit, the earth is well loosened and, on the eve of planting, mixed with organic (rotted manure, peat, compost) or mineral fertilizers, and if the earth is acidic, with lime. A mound is made in the center of the pit and a seedling is lowered, its trunk should be 5-7 cm from the stake. Fill the hole first with the top fertile layer, then lower, less nutritious. The seedling is shaken from time to time so that the soil passes between the roots. As soon as the roots of the seedling are covered with soil with a layer of 10-15 cm, 2-3 buckets of water are poured into the pit. The planting depth of the tree should be the same as it was in the nursery, and the root neck of the seedling (the conditional boundary of the transition of the root system to the trunk) should be above the soil level.
Some gardeners dig holes for planting trees and shrubs in advance, for example, for spring planting - in the fall. And they are also covered in advance with soil with a mixture of humus or compost, sawdust (but not conifers), leaves, rotten straw, hay or other organic debris. The pit is filled to the brim. In the spring, it is enough to make a small hole in it, convenient for placing the root system of the seedling, and plant a tree.
Spring is the most popular period of time for gardeners to plant vegetation. It is in spring that most plants are planted in open ground: from herbaceous annuals to tree and shrub species.
What age trees and shrubs can be planted in spring
AT spring period usually plant and transplant young plants. As a rule, these are seedlings aged 1-3 years. There is an opinion that the younger the seedling, the faster it takes root.
If you intend to plant mature trees up to 2 m high on your site, then keep in mind that slow-growing breeds that are 12-20 years old are the easiest to transplant.
Fast-growing species can be transplanted up to 10 years, and fruit trees - up to 8-16 years, depending on the species. for shrubs age limit transplantation also depends on the specific species.
As for large-sized ones from 2 m and above, then the best time for their transplantation - frosty winter days. In winter, the earth is frozen and the earthy clod of a tree does not crumble during excavation, which makes it possible to transplant a large-sized tree without significant damage to the root system.
Laying a new garden
Let's say you are going to lay a new garden and have already purchased seedlings. You have a planting plan (scheme), you know which plants, where to plant, how to arrange them relative to each other and relative to the sun. The last question remains: “When will it be possible to plant them in the ground?”.
There are some differences in planting hardwood and softwood. In addition, the planting time also depends on which seedlings you purchased - with a closed or open root system.
Hardwood planting
For seedlings with a closed root system, purchased in containers or simply with an earthy clod, there are no strict time limits for planting. They can be planted from spring to autumn. The main thing is to provide them with proper care for the first time after landing.
However, the most optimal time for planting plants with a closed root system - the end of May - the beginning of June, when the growth of the roots is characterized by increased activity. By the way, they take root better than seedlings with bare roots, because. in this case, damage to the roots is practically excluded.
Plants with an open root system can be planted while they are at a stage of relative dormancy, i.e. the buds have not yet swollen and have not started to grow. In time, this is approximately the end of April - the beginning of May. If planting is carried out in the fall, then only after the trees have shed their leaves and nature begins to fall asleep.
It is advisable to plant seedlings with exposed roots immediately after purchase. If it is necessary to postpone this event for a while, then you can temporarily dig them in some shaded place: put them in a shallow hole at a slight angle and carefully cover the roots with soil.
Planting conifers
Coniferous and evergreens transplant is worse than hardwoods. Therefore, it is recommended to start planting them at more early dates, slightly earlier than deciduous.
Coniferous trees and shrubs should only be transplanted with a closed root system. Be careful not to buy coniferous seedlings with bare roots, without an earthen clod.
In addition, it is safer to buy those seedlings that were originally grown in containers, and were not transplanted into them shortly before the sale.
If coniferous seedlings are grown in open field, then they are transplanted into a container for subsequent transportation and sale. And in the process of all these actions, any mistakes can be made, which later, after planting plants on permanent place, can lead to certain problems. Especially if transportation is provided for many kilometers from the place of excavation.
You can reduce the degree of risk by directly transplanting conifers directly from soil to soil, and in the shortest possible time. The most optimal time for digging coniferous seedlings from the ground is the period before the start of the growing season, i.e. in early spring. And the faster you plant them in a permanent place, the more likely it is that the plants will successfully take root.
What else affects the landing time
If your region has severe winters with little snow or clayey, highly compacted soil in your area, then spring planting of trees and shrubs is recommended in this case.
Since if planted in the fall, there is a risk that the plants will not have time to take root before winter. Moreover, heat-loving breeds should be planted only after the late spring frosts have passed.
When to cook holes
Pits and soil for planting trees and shrubs can be prepared in advance, 2-3 weeks in advance. But it is best to cook them in the fall, especially if the soil in your area is not light, i.e. clayey or loamy.
They dig holes for this. required size, the excavated earth, if necessary, is mixed with sand and poured back into the pits. Over the winter, the soil in the pit will settle just to the right level. late autumn put into the pits organic fertilizers, and in the spring they loosen the soil and apply mineral fertilizers.
The spring planting period is short
With spring planting trees and shrubs should not be delayed, because. time for its implementation is very limited. As soon as the ground thaws, plants can be planted in the ground. But only until the moment when the active growth of the kidneys begins. And this period lasts only about 3 weeks and in temperate latitudes it falls in mid-April - early May.
Well, if you are suddenly late with spring planting, do not worry, most plants can be planted both in spring and in autumn. And, by the way, in the fall, the period of a possible landing lasts much longer - 1.5-2 months.
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