How to cut a bush in the shape of a ball. Rules for cutting and trimming hedges from shrubs and vines

Curly cutting of bushes is not just a whim of gardeners who want to decorate their site in an original way, but a real art, the roots of which go back to the most ancient times. It is generally accepted that the art of topiary originated in Persia and Ancient Egypt, but greatest flowering happened in the 15th century. It was at this time that Louis XV stood at the reins of France, wishing that Versailles was decorated with hedges. This fashion quickly took root in all the gardens of Europe.

At present, topiary is not forgotten, on the contrary, interest in it is experiencing a certain fashionable boom.

Not only professionals, landscape designers, but also simple amateurs who want to create an individual style for their garden are now interested in the art of curly pruning of bushes.

The most common suitable are the following bushes for decorative pruning:

• boxwood;
• holly;
• privet;
• cotoneaster.

The first plant, despite its toxicity, is quite often used in garden compositions requiring haircuts twice a year. Yew requires similar care to boxwood and is also great for making figurative statues. Holly is a thorny plant from which you can organize a real living fence. Cotoneaster is good for carving shapes, but needs to be trimmed quite often for a neat and tidy look.

The ideal material for creating hedges is privet, which requires a haircut only once a year in warm weather.

Necessary tools and preparation

To create a beautiful style in your garden, you need to take care of the availability of specific tools in advance:

• Secateurs used to cut branches
• Garden knife - needed for cutting shoots
• Brush cutter - useful for crown formation
• Saw - needed to eliminate excess thick branches
• Lopper - used for remote pruning of branches

If you first decided to create a topiary on your site, then you should not immediately start mastering complex figures. It is best to start acquaintance with this art with the simplest figures: a cone, an oval, a ball.

All tools should also be checked: they must be serviceable, in good condition, sharpened and capable.

If you are no longer a beginner in this business, and have decided to decorate the garden with more intricate figures, then frames made of steel rods will be of great benefit. This tool has recently become used in topiary and serves as an assistant to create more complex ideas.

Features of creating complex shapes

Decorative cutting of bushes includes several stages of creating a composition.

• First you need to create a wire frame of the desired shape, in which the selected plant is placed. As it grows, shoots and branches may extend beyond the frame, which must be closely monitored. All unnecessary details are cut off even at that moment, if the branches on the opposite side have not yet reached the frame.
• It may take several years for a bush to grow to a certain shape, and during all this time you need to monitor its shape and trim it from different sides. As soon as the plant reaches the shape that was intended, the wire corset is removed, and you just need to take care of the resulting figure.
• To create complex decorative figures and sculptures, stationary templates are used that are not removed, but are connected to the plant with the help of steel rods and remain so to give it the necessary shape.
• To create particularly complex shapes, special fillable patterns are used in which the plant develops. Most often, such structures are filled with sphagnum moss and peat, and creeping plants are planted on them, for example, most often it is ivy. However, the creation of such complex figures requires certain skills and abilities, as well as a lot of experience, since they require careful maintenance.

Curly haircut of bushes and trees (video)

Techniques and methods for curly cutting bushes

If you decide to do landscaping and create an original landscape on the site, then you need to know the methods and techniques of curly cutting bushes.

• So, deciduous trees are pruned once a year in spring, until the buds have blossomed. Due to last year's branches, they increase their volume by 5 - 10 cm.
• But the plants used to create a hedge need to be trimmed several times during the year. The first curly haircut of the bushes must be carried out before bud break, leaving 5 cm of growth from last year. The next haircut is made to the level of the first.
• If the fence is built on the use of coniferous shrubs, then you should know that it is impossible to cut the shrub from the sides strictly vertically, since they should taper slightly towards the top. If this is not done, then the lower part will very quickly remain without needles.
• In order for the crown of the plant to be lush and eye-catching with its density, it is recommended to cut young plants quite plentifully. It is best to use a garden knife or pruner for this.

Beautiful decorative cutting of bushes can be carried out not only by specially trained professionals, but also by you personally on your own site. It just takes a little patience, attention and imagination. Heather lovers will be useful.

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Oksana Dmitrievna 23.10.2014

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Rules for cutting and trimming hedges

Trimming and pruning plants used as hedges or for decorating walls and arbors not only makes them look well-groomed, but also contributes to their good growth.

What is the difference between shearing and trimming ornamental crops

All plants for hedges can be conditionally divided into two groups:

• Requiring formation. That is, maintaining a certain shape in order to improve the decorative qualities. These crops include deciduous and coniferous shrubs or trees that begin to form from the first year of planting: yew, hawthorn, boxwood, forsythia, thuja, cotoneaster, privet.
• Free-growing - this group includes erect flowering and deciduous shrubs, climbing vines: ivy, clematis, common bindweed, parthenocissus, climbing rose, hops.

The formation of bushes for each group of plants is excellent. A hedge of a certain shape, in addition to annual pruning, needs regular shearing, during which the plant is given the correct geometric shape.

Artistic haircut, which includes curly (topiary), trapezoidal and rounded, is a true art of landscape design. With its help, plants can be given any, even the most intricate shape. To form such a fence, you will need a special tool - manual or electric scissors, as well as certain knowledge and skills.

Pruning free-growing plants encourages the growth of additional side branches, and makes the hedge more dense. The methods and frequency of pruning depends on the type of plants and the nature of their growth.

Rules and schemes for the formation of a hedge with a haircut

In the first year, hedge bushes are cut short, leaving 1/3 of the length of the branches of seedlings. Do this after the plant has taken root. After shearing, the bushes give a lot of young shoots, which will later become the frame of the hedge.

In the future, the plants are cut in spring and summer. Spring shearing is carried out in April, leaving the growth of young branches by 2/3, and in fast-growing shrubs - 1/2. In the same period, sanitary pruning is carried out, removing damaged and improperly growing branches.

Formative cutting of hedges is carried out with a slight slope from top to bottom. This is clearly seen in the diagram, figure on the right.

The main task of a summer haircut is to shape the bush. Cut out shoots that stand out from the overall composition. For flowering crops, such a haircut should be carried out after flowering, in late summer or autumn. And for a fast-growing hedge, you will need two or even 3 summer shaping haircuts.

A hedge of a certain shape grows to its full height in 4-5 years, after which the haircut is carried out more radically. The annual growth of shoots is cut off, leaving a stump of a few centimeters.

Flowering hedge trimming

In landscape design, curly trees are successfully used to create hedges. flowering plants. Among them, climbing roses, clematis, common bindweed, curly honeysuckle are the most popular. With proper care and pruning, the fence of them will be strewn with bright large flowers all summer.

Climbing rose pruning

Climbing rose shoots are very flexible, and can reach up to 6 m in length. Annual pruning of the rose contributes to long and abundant flowering. Even one season without removing excess branches will lead to thickening of the bush, shrinking flowers, and loss of decorativeness of the plant.

In summer, young shoots will form on the bush, and flowers will form on last year's shoots. During this period, it is necessary to tie up young shoots to supports in time, and immediately cut off faded flowers, stimulating the blooming of new buds. Also in the summer, restraining pruning is carried out when the space allocated for the rose is limited. In this case, the number of main stems is normalized, and during the summer, excess side shoots are removed.

In autumn, in September or October, the faded shoots of this year are shortened by 3-4 buds (up to a level of 15 cm from the ground). Poorly developed and growing inside young shoots should be cut to the ground.

In the spring, you can clearly see which shoots overwintered successfully, and which ones died. In the first case, the color of the branches will be light green, and in the second, brown. Frozen shoots are cut to the first living bud. The cut is made at an acute angle so that the kidney remains at the top of the cut.

Adult climbing roses may need anti-aging pruning. During it, all branches are cut, leaving 15-20 cm above the soil level. Such a bush is restored quite quickly, and in a year the fence will again be entwined with young shoots with numerous flowers.

Clematis - pruning rules

With proper care and pruning, clematis forms lush bushes and does an excellent job as a hedge. Pruning rules for clematis different groups will differ.

The order of pruning clematis depends on its species group. Depending on the required pruning, clematis are divided into groups as follows:

• Group A, varieties - Zhakmana, Vititsella, Integrifolia, Six-petalled, Texas. They form flowers only on the shoots of this year;
• Group B, varieties - Lanuginosa, Florida, Patens, Armanda, Gorny. In the spring, clematis of this group throw out flowers on last year's shoots, and in summer the shoots of this year continue to bloom.
• Group C, varieties are colorful, sprawling - Montana, Lazurtern, Nelly Moser, Henry. These include clematis, which form flowers on last year's shoots.

Group A clematis are cut short every year in autumn, leaving 2-3 buds above ground level. In summer, these plants need regulatory and sanitary pruning, during which damaged and improperly growing shoots are removed.

Pruning clematis group B is the most time-consuming. It is held twice a season. First cut - after spring flowering on last year's shoots, which are cut almost to the base, leaving 1-2 buds. The second pruning is after summer flowering (in autumn). During it, unripened and damaged young stems are removed, leaving 3-5 powerful branches, which are shortened to a height of 1-1.5 m.

Group C clematis need an annual light pruning immediately after flowering, which is carried out by cutting out the generative (flower-bearing) part of the stem. These types of clematis grow very quickly and need restraint pruning throughout the growing season.

After 5-6 years, all types of clematis need rejuvenating pruning, when in spring all the stems are cut to the base. Full flowering of such bushes will come in a year.

Common bindweed pruning

For landscaping hedges, gardeners often grow bindweed. It grows very quickly, entwining everything in its path. Shoots it must be constantly sent to the right place.

Pruning bindweed takes place in several stages:

• Pinching a sprout when its length reaches 30-40 cm.
• Pinching side shoots when they are sufficiently developed (30-40 cm long).
• Regular pruning of wilted flowers to stimulate the formation of new shoots.
• In the second half of summer, all bindweed shoots are shortened by half, after which the plant grows with renewed vigor.

curly honeysuckle

One of the most unpretentious plants for hedges is curly decorative honeysuckle: Honeysuckle, Brown, Telman. Pruned with honeysuckle in spring, in March or in autumn, in October. Remove all broken and unsuccessfully growing shoots.

Formative pruning of the bush is carried out in May. At the same time, all shoots growing to the side are shortened, leaving 7-10 cm. The growth of honeysuckle is regulated by curly pruning of all unwanted growths throughout the growing season. Without pruning, the vine looks unkempt, grows rapidly, braiding houses, trees, and suppressing the growth of neighboring plants.

Five - seven year old vines are cut more radically, cutting out the old lashes to the base and leaving 3-5 of the youngest of them. This procedure has a positive effect on the development of honeysuckle - the bushes become more lush, and the flowers become large.

Old honeysuckle bushes, from 15-20, can regain their former beauty with rejuvenating pruning, cutting off the entire above-ground part in early spring or late autumn. The same applies to those bushes that have not been properly cared for for a long time. Curly honeysuckle recovers very quickly after full pruning, giving numerous, fast-growing young shoots.

Pruning fast growing vines

You can create a dense green hedge with the help of powerful fast-growing vines - girlish grapes, ivy or hops.

Girlish grapes grow rapidly, capturing and wrapping around everything in their path, so you can’t do without shaping and restraining pruning when growing it.

Restrain the growth of wild grapes by cutting the lashes at the required height throughout the summer. Also in the summer, sanitary pruning is carried out, removing damaged and diseased shoots. It is worth remembering that after pruning, the growth of wild grapes is enhanced.

It is very important to ensure that the lashes of girlish grapes do not spread on the ground. They quickly take root and give new shoots. Moreover, the growth of its root system is also aggressive, therefore it is not recommended to plant wild grapes near other garden and ornamental crops.

Shaping and pruning ivy

With the help of such a creeper as ivy, you can create hedges up to 6 m high. It easily tolerates shaping and rejuvenating pruning, after which it moves with renewed vigor to growth.

After planting, ivy seedlings are pinched, thereby stimulating the growth of side shoots. All subsequent years, ivy is pruned to maintain a neat appearance of the vine:

• Cut out sideways growing shoots;
• Broken and shrunken branches are cut to the base;
• To limit growth, the shoots are shortened to the required length. The cut is made over the kidney;
• Bare branches are cut "on a stump" up to 50-70 cm high, the awakening of dormant buds on which will give new strong shoots.

Hop pruning

Such a liana as hops is known to many gardeners. It grows rapidly, forming a dense hedge.

Hop pruning is carried out in early spring, cutting out all dead stems at ground level. When the young growth reaches 50-60 cm in height, it is thinned out, leaving only 3-5 of the most powerful shoots, the rest are cut out at the base. The length of the hop lashes can reach 12-15 m, so it also needs to be adjusted by cutting the lashes at the right height.

Outcome

Mowing and trimming hedges - milestones care that is necessary to maintain decorativeness. Thanks to the described procedures, the plants develop well and look well-groomed. The timing, techniques and regularity of pruning depend on the biological characteristics of the crops grown.

Well-groomed and beautifully trimmed trees and shrubs ennoble the garden. To give the plants a decorative shape, you need to try: choose the right crops and planting site, provide care and carry out a regular curly haircut. In this article I will share tips on how to cut trees and shrubs even for a novice gardener.

What to consider when cutting trees and shrubs

1. Plant selection

To get started, decide on your climate zone and select ornamental trees and shrubs that will grow on the site without problems. For example, I will give a fence from boxwood . It looks luxurious, the plant tolerates a haircut by 5 points, but it grows reluctantly in the Moscow region, it simply freezes out. This evergreen shrub is ideal for the southern regions.

2. Choosing a landing site

For a plant that is planned to be cut and shaped into a crown, you need to carefully choose a place for planting. It must be open sunlight will prevent the decay of internal branches. After all, after periodic haircuts, the branches grow thicker and more magnificent. If a tree or shrub grows in the shade, the leaves, as a rule, become small, and the crown itself is looser.

3. Choosing the shape of the crown

Decide on the shape of the crown: you need a compact ball or a tall elongated cone. The shade and shape of needles or leaves also play an important role in landscape design.

First of all for decorative haircut trees and shrubs you will need a lot of patience, diligence and a good eye.

• Start by shearing a leafy plant

For the "first time" choose a deciduous plant. A tree or shrub with leaves is the easiest to tolerate a haircut, quickly builds up a green mass, which allows you to hide flaws when cutting. At deciduous plants you can quickly form the desired figure - their growth rate is much faster than that of coniferous plants.

• Increase the number of new shoots

Before achieving the desired decorative shape of the plant, you will need to carry out several haircuts. You need to cut the shoots by 1/3 to provoke the emergence of new ones. Each new cut of the shoot should be made slightly higher than the previous one, leaving 2-3 buds. If you cut the plant all the time in one line, then soon it will become bare and lose its attractiveness.

• Stick to cutting times

Haircut is best done in the spring.

1. For the Middle Band, the optimal time for cutting is March - April, before the start of active sap flow.
2. There are plants that tolerate shearing well during the summer.
3. In autumn, it is better not to perform such procedures and let the plant prepare for the winter. If necessary, some unpretentious plants sheared in the fall, after leaf fall.
4. Coniferous plants are best cut in early spring or after the appearance of new shoots (late June - early July).

During the season, 2-3 shaping haircuts can be carried out, depending on the well-being of the plant and its new increased leaf mass.

• Follow the cutting direction

Cut from top to bottom!

• Provide proper care behind the plant

Ornamental plants need regular watering, loosening, mulching and fertilizing. Competently performing all agricultural practices suitable for the selected plant, you will accelerate its growth and make it stress-resistant to periodic haircuts.

• Choose your cutting tool

The presence of professional tools will facilitate the work and make it fast and fun. Any garden center sells secateurs, clippers, garden saws. My advice: don't skimp on the tool! Yes, a good pruner is expensive, but believe me, it will pay off handsomely. Such tools serve for more than one year, or even several decades, rarely break and greatly simplify the work. All tools must be sharp and disinfected.
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• Different kinds barberries, but Thunberg is best,
• various types of thuja (Western, Danica),
• Red viburnum,
• Irga,
• Derain white,
• Euonymus,
• hawthorn,
• different types of willow,
• Privet,
• cotoneaster,
• Spirea,
• boxwood,
• Tis, etc.

Trimming trees and shrubs in the shape of a ball

In order for decorative trees and shrubs in the shape of a ball to appear on your site, you need to choose the right plants that themselves grow in the form of a ball in their natural form.

Plants for haircuts in the form of a ball:

• Thuja Western Globoza,
• globular willow,
• thuja Danica,
• spirea,
• deren,
• cotoneaster shining.

How to cut to shape a ball:

1. A special tool is sold for cutting a spherical shape. It looks like a rod to which a semicircle of wire of the desired diameter is attached. If desired, such a design is easy to build with your own hands.
2. First, the bush is cut on the sides, for example, outlining the "north" and "south".
3. Then they find east, west, northeast, northwest, etc.
4. When the anchor points are found, the remaining sections are cut to the same length.

Haircut curly hedge

Curly hedge will decorate any garden!

Plants for creating a curly hedge:

• juniper,

How to cut a curly fence:

1. You need to plant plants in a row, you can use seeds, keeping a distance of about 80 cm between them.
2. After the plants grow to a height of about 50 cm, the crown is cut off with secateurs, provoking the growth of side shoots. So the fence will turn out thick and dense.
3. When the plants grow a little more, you can create different lines along the surface of the hedge. It can be smooth or hard straight lines located at different heights.

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Cutting trees and shrubs in the shape of a cube

Plants to create a decorative cube:

• Spirea,
• privet.

How to cut to give a cubic shape:

1. In order to form a decorative cube, it is best to plant 5 plants: four in the corners of the cube, and the fifth in the center.
2. The crown of the plant should be very dense. To ensure increased density when cutting the plant, cut off the shoot above the bud, which looks inside the crown.
3. You can cut "by eye" or insure with the help wooden slats and ropes, placing them at the right distance.

Cutting trees and shrubs in the shape of a cone

1. To create a decorative cone, you can use the usual thin slats.
2. Place them at the base of the plant, and tie them along the central axis at the top.
3. Cut off all protruding branches.
4. When cutting trees, you do not need to touch the lower branches and the central shoot, cutting only the side ones.

Each plot of land is decorated with green spaces. Having the skills of cutting, you can give shrubs and trees any shape from geometric shapes to images of people and animals.

All green spaces need pruning and crown formation from time to time. In addition to sanitary and rejuvenating procedures, each bush or tree can be given a certain shape using various tools.

For effective work the tool must meet the requirements:

Blades - sharp, narrowed at the end;
The handle is non-slip for comfortable working.
The color is bright, it will help you easily find an abandoned tool;

Pruning tools are manual, battery, gasoline, electric.

Hand tools

They are divided into amateur and professional. Professional ones are more expensive, but also more reliable, they are convenient to work with, they will serve much longer, they have a wider range of applications. When buying, choose manufacturers that have proven themselves for a long time: Gardena, Fiskars, Felko, Rako. Good reviews from the domestic manufacturer Mekhinstrument.

Garden secateurs

Secateurs are designed for trimming branches up to 30 mm thick.

Before making a choice, check the cutting ability of the pruner on a paper sheet.

Secateurs have a different configuration and purpose: for flowers, plants with thorns, for grass, for grapes and, of course, the classic one. Pruners can also be selected for hands of different sizes and for left-handed people.

Secateurs come with one or two cutting blades. There are two blades - they move towards each other, they work like scissors, it is difficult to cut a thicker branch with such a tool. Choose a pruner with a single blade - the driving blade bites the branch when it reaches the stop of the lower lip. There must be a return spring in the design.

garden loppers

Lopper has elongated handles, the principle of operation is the same as that of the secateurs. The cutting ability is higher than that of a secateurs, cuts branches up to 50 millimeters thick. During operation, it must be held with both hands. It has a certain advantage over pruners, as it can cut high branches.

garden shears - hedge trimmers

They resemble scissors, have long handles and are designed for trimming green hedges and tending shrubs, giving them a neat shape. Branch diameter up to 15 mm.

To facilitate and speed up the work in the formation of the crown, you can use tools that run on batteries, gasoline or electricity. Undoubtedly, such tools must be in your arsenal if you plan to ennoble your shrubs and trees.

garden saw

garden knives

Designed for correcting the shape, trimming dry and young branches. Will be an undoubted help when working with shrubs and trees. They have a curved blade for ease of use.

Garden tools petrol, accumulator, electric.

This type of tool, of course, may be needed for sawing off thick and stem branches. Use it to trim living branches. Choose only reputable manufacturers, as they produce a tool that can cut branches as accurately as possible without causing harm.

Manufacturers that are popular, have a long service life and are easy to use: Husqvarna, Bosch, Gardena, Stihl, Echo.

AccuCut Gardena cordless scissors

These cordless scissors will surely make gardening easier. Light enough, processing speed is much higher than a hand tool. The cut is even and precise. With the help of such scissors, it is easy to create sculptures from shrubs and trees.

Advantage - you can also cut the grass around a tree or shrub.

It is easy to gain experience with such a tool. Equipped with a charge level indicator.

electric garden shears

They work from the electric city, respectively, you can use an unlimited amount of time without recharging. The cord, up to 30 meters long, provides a wide carrying area. Lightweight and relatively inexpensive.

Cannot be used during rain!

petrol garden shears

Gas shears will always come in handy when working with green spaces. You can work with such a tool in any weather - they are not afraid of moisture and rain, do not require recharging, and have long knives.

They require refueling with gasoline, tracking oil changes, heavy in weight.

Shrub shears reviews

When choosing any product, we are guided by the advice of sellers and customer reviews. Undoubtedly, each tool, manual or mechanical, has its own advantages. Good reviews are usually well-known manufacturers. Since they care about their customers, give a guarantee for their products, have a network of service centers, telephone hotlines. In company stores you can buy original spare parts.

The form of cutting shrubs, photo

Having mastered a variety of tools, you can start cutting your favorite trees and shrubs. Think about the design and the result you want to get.

Shape - ball

Form - hedge

triangular shape

Lion figure

Stepped haircut

topiary haircut

hedge

Alpine garden

Figures of people

Decorative shrub haircut, master class secrets and tips

If you set out to transform your garden,

• Think over the work plan and design;
• Draw on a piece of paper a plan of the area where your pets grow;
• Consider the shape of each tree, taking into account its features;
• If necessary, create a template for which you will cut the bush;
• Prepare gloves if your shrub is thorny;
• Get the right tools, learn the rules of cutting and get to work.

Do the first haircut in the spring, before the formation of buds, above the ground at least one third. First of all, cut off old and dry branches, as well as branches and leaves touched by pests and diseases.
Then shape into the shape that the bush allows.

When planning to cut bushes and trees, consider biological features, the ability to grow, form shoots throughout the season. choose slow-growing plants with small leaves.

♦ thuja, viburnum, cherry laurel, larch, linden, cotoneaster, acacia, boxwood, wild rose, euonymus, cinquefoil, barberry, hawthorn, pine, spruce, juniper.

examples

Boxwood is ideal for giving a variety of shapes. It is fairly bushy and grows well. Lives up to four hundred years. Keep in mind that it does not tolerate frost well.

Boxwood before shearing

Boxwood after shearing

Cotoneaster is perfect for a decorative haircut, bushes well, can be used for hedges and creating a variety of shapes.

Cotoneaster before haircut

Cotoneaster after haircut

Privet is not a whimsical plant, it has many species. Can go without a haircut for a long time. But it will look like an ordinary plant. Shaping ennobles this shrub and gives personality to the garden.

Privet before haircut

Privet after haircut

Euonymus is a real decoration of any garden. It responds very positively to a haircut, begins to grow more efficiently. It must be remembered that the fruits of this tree are poisonous.

Euonymus before haircut

Euonymus after haircut

Hawthorn, spirea, honeysuckle, hazel respond with gratitude after pruning.

Several ways to bring green spaces in order:

shortening - cut off the tops that have just sprouted.
thinning - to avoid excessive density.
rejuvenation - removal of old and dry branches.
pruning - removal of protruding branches.

Use only high-quality tools of well-known companies.

Curly haircut of a bush, step by step instructions with a photo

The shape of the shrubs can be varied. It all depends on the plant itself, where it is located and how it fits into the design of the site.

Tools suitable for this purpose are − gardening scissors, manual, petrol, electric, accumulator. If you have no experience, start with the simplest shapes - a ball, a square, a cone.

Visually divide the shrub into two parts with a horizontal stripe. Cut her out.
Perpendicular to the horizontal strip, cut vertical stripes on four sides at the same distance from each other.
The remaining branches are leveled relative to the trimmed strips.

Use a wire template in the form of a semicircle, move it along the plant.

Another way is to put together a cube from wooden blocks, so that it can be put on a bush. Trim a square on each side first, then trim the corners.

Standard boxwood, haircut in the form of a ball

Place four slats, which will form a square, around the bush.
Fasten the horizontal strips between the rails from above.
Cut from top to bottom.

This form of shearing is done with a rope, one end of which is tied to the top and coiled around the plant. This creates a contour. Starting to cut, along the contour, cut off a small layer, step back and see how beautiful it turns out. If everything is in order, continue cutting. Don't leave a bare trunk. Use garden shears and secateurs.

A frame is made in the form of a cone - with three, four corners, as many as possible. It is put on a bush and cut.

If you have mastered the techniques of cutting simple shapes, you can try to create a more complex sculpture with your own hands. The art of creating masterpieces green spaces called topiary. There is no limit to fantasy here. You just need to choose a suitable tree or bush.

You will need:

A blank is a template for the shape you want to draw. Such a template can be bought in a special store, or you can make it yourself from metal wire, with a diameter of at least six millimeters. It is ideal to use the machine for welding. If this is not the case, the wire is tied

Templates are:

portable - put on a bush before cutting;
stationary - the template is placed on the shrub, as the shrub grows, it fills the template, when the template is filled with greenery, the shrub is cut off according to the template.
fillable - the template is filled with soil, moss, peat, where plants are planted, pruning is done around the template.

Topiary haircut examples:

In order to form a hedge, you will need: rope, posts, scissors. Install posts along the bushes, stretch a rope or fishing line between them. The tension should be strong, parallel to the ground. Next, try to cut without going beyond the limits outlined by the rope.

The following plants are best suited for hedges: hawthorn, vine, linden, derain, boxwood, acacia, hornbeam, beech, thuja, conifers, purple willow, vesicle. Choose plants that grow well in your climate.

,

For regions with an unstable climate, Barberry Thunberga is very well suited for the formation of a hedge.

If you decide to only plant your plants for a live hedge, you can put up a fence first, the height of which depends on the chosen location, the selected plants and your preferences. It may not be a high fence at all, which will serve as a border for a flower bed or a certain area in the garden. Or a fence with which you want to decorate the front of your site or the entire perimeter.

Conifers are ideal for cutting and shaping. They have a plastic crown, they tolerate pruning well, you can create figures of any complexity.

• Shearing can begin no earlier than a year after planting.
• When choosing a shape, consider the natural shape of the plant.
• Don't leave branches bare. Most conifers do not have dormant buds, the branch will remain bare.
• Consider the weather outside. Make a haircut at a temperature above five degrees.
• Do not start cutting during the period when the plant has active growth - early spring and first half of summer.
• After cutting, spray the crown with Epin.

Most conifers are poisonous! Wear gloves. Wash your hands well after work

Tui haircut in the form of a pyramid

Japanese haircut. Japanese white pine. Nivaki style is akin to bonsai, but can grow indefinitely. You need to create this style, starting with a young plant. For the middle lane, Scotch pine is suitable. You can use juniper, spruce. Remove terminal shoots. Form branches in the form of pillows. The taller the tree, the smaller the pillow should be.

If you have a suburban area, join the art of cutting trees and shrubs. Creating a variety of shapes and figures will decorate your garden.

Lunar shrub trimming! what a nice way to trim a bush! lunar garden. — youtube

Lunar shrub trimming! How nice to cut a bush! Garden according to the lunar calendar.
My cool store: beauty, food, health http://nlstar. com/ref/KpSXgq/
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I'm VKontakte! Be in touch! Watch my moon haircut video! How nice to cut a bush! Garden according to the lunar calendar.
Since ancient times, mankind has been paying attention to the impact of the night luminary, the Moon, on all life on our wonderful planet. It is clear that trees, shrubs, flowers and other crops did not pass the same fate. And this fact is confirmed by more than one generation of gardeners. Therefore, many successful farmers turn their attention to the lunar calendar of crops. Everyone who wants to get an impressive harvest uses proven methods, takes into account the advice of more experienced gardeners and gardeners, and uses his knowledge and observations. But almost everyone considers the smartest solution in working on the ground - the use of a calendar. And now, many summer residents are carefully studying the lunar sowing calendar for 2017 in order to achieve the highest yields. Some important points There is such a thing as "a favorable day for landing", we all heard it at least once. And it is better to use the gardener's lunar calendar. However, few people seriously thought that good days for planting certain crops are directly related to the influence of the Earth's natural satellite. It is thanks to the Moon that the ebbs and flows of the waters of the oceans occur on our planet, and the life cycles of many animals, like people, are “tuned” to lunar activity. Plants are no exception.
The most important landing rule, according to lunar calendar, is the rule of the outgoing and young moon. In the phase of the waning moon, you need to plant root crops that grow downwards, and in the phase of the young moon, land plants that grow upwards. All this is very simple to explain - plant growers say that in the phase of the falling moon, it is well strengthened root system, while the stems and leaves grow slowly, but with the growing moon, branches, leaves and stems grow more.
Now we understand that without a lunar calendar, it is difficult to grow beautiful plants and get an excellent harvest!
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Features of pruning ornamental shrubs and trees

With the advent of spring, it is time to trim the green inhabitants of our gardens: you need to thin out their crowns and shorten the branches. However, gardeners often go to extremes and cut during this period even those plants with pruning, which are better to wait until summer or autumn, such as early flowering shrubs. Therefore, pruning must be approached with knowledge of the matter.

You can learn the basic pruning rules from the article Pruning trees and shrubs, but ornamental trees and shrubs have certain specific care.

Trimming ornamental trees, we, first of all, We strive to give their crowns the appropriate shape and keep it longer. Plants in hedges with a swift so that the foliage is thick and holes do not gape in the crowns. Thanks to the regular use of secateurs, we achieve a particularly rich harvest from fruit trees and berry bushes. Decorative shrubs. As well as climbing and container plants, we cut first of all for lush flowering. If the plant has decorative bark, then with the help of pruning, you can once again emphasize the beauty of young shoots, because over time, the color of the bark of old branches becomes faded.

In addition, pruning is intended Maintain the natural shape of the crown of the green inhabitants of the garden and adjust their size. But in any case, it must be clearly understood that a bush that is too large or an already mature tree, even after very strong pruning, does not turn into an attractive dwarf plant! And, of course, do not forget that regular - especially spring pruning of plants contributes to a more intense emergence of new shoots.

The use of a saw and pruner helps to rejuvenate plants, thanks to pruning, they can regain their lost strength. In rare cases, trees and shrubs need to be cut radically, cutting out all the stems at the very base. This method is applicable, but with good shoot formation for hazel or forsythia bushes. In most plants, anti-aging pruning is carried out in stages.

Should be clarified! One-year growth is the growth of the previous year with numerous vegetative and generative buds. The bark may be lighter than other shoots or drastically different in color (for example, Derain white).

The cut must be made at an angle so that water does not stagnate on its plane, causing the wood to rot. In addition, the distance between the cut and the kidney located below is important, there is a danger that it will dry out or freeze. If, on the contrary, a stump is formed from it very strongly, where the infection can quickly penetrate.

Pruning ornamental trees.

Some representatives of the green kingdom are becoming more and more picturesque over the years, so they do not need crown correction (for example, magnolia and palmate maple). But many ornamental trees and shrubs, so that they bloom or their crowns do not lose their shape, require periodic pruning.

Ornamental apple tree, e.g. every 2-3 years Needs only adjustment pruning. At the same time, old, damaged and thickening branches are removed. Regular strong pruning is necessary only for those trees and shrubs that must maintain a certain shape of the crowns. The same applies to plants whose flowers appear on young, newly formed shoots, for example, to three-lobed almonds. A very strong pruning after flowering contributes to the fact that they have numerous shoots with flower buds this year. Many deciduous trees can withstand such a radical haircut: white locust Umbraculifera And goat willow Pendula, after pruning, they quickly become overgrown with new shoots emerging from the buds on the remaining part of the cut branch.

For small gardens, trees that can withstand heavy pruning are suitable. spherical crown, for example bignoniform catalpa Nana. Regular pruning helps keep the tree in check. Such trees tolerate even heavy pruning, almost to the base of the skeletal branches.

Trees with a spherical crown.

Thanks to the dense crown of a harmonious spherical shape and bright green foliage, Robinia pseudoacacia or white locust (Robinia pseudoacacia) Umbraculifera perfect for landing in small garden: This tree withstands even very heavy pruning unusually well, its crown can be reduced to any size, while it does not lose its presentability.

Without pruning, the diameter of the spherical crown of pseudoacacia Umbraculifera over time it can reach 4-5 m. This can be prevented if every 2-3 years Completely cut off all branches almost to the base, leaving only short stumps. Best time for such pruning, a frost-free day in early March. Slow growing species such as Ginkgo Biloba Mariken pruning is necessary only many years after planting, while only a slight crown correction can be limited. Liquidambar resinous gum ball also has a beautiful spherical crown, which, as a rule, does not need pruning.

Light pruning of white locust can be done at any time of the year. But it's better in early spring. Then the young shoots will quickly hide the ugly places in the crown that have arisen after pruning.

Also cut:

common ash Fraxinus excelsior, white locust Umbraculifera, bignoniform catalpa Nana.

Standard shrubs are cut according to the same principle. Three-lobed almonds with delicate pink, as if airy flowers looks incredibly elegant. For this plant Annual heavy pruning desirable. If, immediately after flowering, the three-lobed almond branches are shortened to 10 cm, then next year long, lushly flowering branches are guaranteed to appear on it.

In early spring, the standard Syrian hibiscus is cut: depending on the size of the crown you want to see, the stems can be shortened, leaving only 2-3 buds. The upper kidney should be directed outward.

Whole-leaved willow Hakuro Nishiki the first time pruned at the end of March. Additionally, branches can also be shortened in May and at the end of June. After each pruning, the tree produces new shoots with beautiful foliage.

Bushy willows are usually pruned in early spring. If you want to admire the flowers, you can wait with pruning until the plant fades.

Norway maple is not pruned as hard as white locust Umbraculifera or not cut at all. Important: branches are shortened only from August to December, no later than, otherwise the tree will cry.

In grafted stem plants, wild shoots may appear on the rootstock. Her just like The root shoot is cut off at the base leaving no stubs.

Plants with a drooping crown.

Standard plants with romantic hanging branches invariably attract the eye. A similar weeping crown shape is found in many trees and shrubs, for example, goat willow (Salix caprea) Pendula.

This tree is growing fast, so Branches shorten every year, leaving stumps about 10 cm long. Trees that have not been pruned for a long time can also be rejuvenated with heavy pruning.

When it comes to grafted trees and shrubs, It is necessary to completely remove the wilds formed on the supply below the grafting site.

Do not cut:

forest beech (Fagus sylvatica) Purpurea pendula, rough elm (Úlmus glábra) camperdownii, warty birch (Betula pendula) youngii, white mulberry (Mórus álba) Penaula.

These plants with a drooping crown grow more slowly than their upright relatives. The crowns of the listed trees are formed by themselves and do not need to be adjusted. Is that damaged branches Can be cut off at the very base or shortened branches that seem too large or long. The last procedure must be carried out in stages so that the plant does not lose its beautiful appearance.

Decorative apple trees.

While fruit trees should please first of all with a bountiful harvest, decorative types are valued primarily for their beautiful appearance. Ornamental apple tree (Malus) is especially popular because of the crown of compact, brightly colored autumn foliage and fruits remaining on the branches even in winter. This tree is pruned only when necessary and always in order to preserve the harmonious appearance of the plant. To do this, in early spring, crowns growing inward and crossing, as well as dry and damaged branches, are removed.

To transform a bushy tree into a standard tree, in addition to the above branches, every year Need to remove the lower side branches, leaving one, the longest, as the center conductor until the desired height is reached. If it is necessary to slow down the growth of an apple tree on a vigorous rootstock, summer pruning is carried out, although then the structure of the plant is less visible.

A real beauty can be called decorative cherry - sakura, reaching the zenith of flowering in April - May. By the old trees it is enough to confine ourselves to only a weak thinning of the crown. And if decorative apple trees are pruned in early spring, then it is better to cut sakura in summer, when these plants slow down sap flow and the cuts heal faster.

For vertically growing ornamental cherries, such as prunus cherries (Prunus serrulata) Amanogawa, there is a place even in small gardens and front gardens. Their crown is good without pruning.

Columnar yews, such as the European yew (Táxus baccáta) cultivar Fastigiata Aurea well tolerates a haircut. but Trim only old plants. or in the case when a slender form is preferred, and the columnar crown grows in breadth.

Beautiful without cutting

While some trees and large shrubs are naturally nice shape crowns or acquire it due to adjustment, there is A group of plants that do not benefit from pruning: many slow growing trees such as magnolia, palmate maple ( Acer palmatum) look better with a crown natural form. Is that they can be slightly thinned out.

Since slow-growing trees and shrubs, on old wood new shoots no longer appear, each step must be carefully considered, because due to improper pruning beautiful tree can be disfigured for a long time. If there are no pruning skills, It is best to remove branches in early spring. when even a beginner can clearly see the structure of the crown of the plant.

Also trimmed:

palm-shaped maple (Acer palmatum), boletus (Laburnum), cersis (Cercis), magnolia (Magnolia), corylopsis (Corylopsis), witch hazel (Hamamelis), common boletus boletus.

Pruning spring flowering shrubs.

In many shrubs, which, like forsythia, bloom in spring, flower buds appear, first of all, on last year's growths. If shrubs are not pruned, they age and the number of new shoots decreases. To stimulate the formation of new shoots, these Plants after flowering should be thinned out every year. To do this, separate old branches are cut off at the surface of the soil. In addition, it is necessary to remove or shorten faded branches. Additionally, you can cut off individual side branches directed to the middle of the bush.

Also cut:

vesicle (Physocarpus), blood-red currant (Ribes sanguineum), deutzia (Deutzia), mock orange (Philadélphus), forsythia (Forsythia), viburnum (Vibúrnum ópulus), kolkwitzia (Kolkwitzia), Vangutta spirea (Spiraea x vanhouttei), kerria (Kerria), weigela (Weigela).

Pruning summer flowering shrubs.

Pruning is carried out in the first place so that they bloom profusely.. In addition, plants due to regular pruning acquire a beautiful compact shape.

Many shrubs, blooming in summer, flower buds are laid on young shoots that appear in spring. Typical example buddleya. In order for the plant to give as many young shoots with flower buds as possible in spring, the buddley is cut in autumn or early spring.

But in most early flowering plants, for example, forsythia, flower buds are laid on last year's growths. If the shrub is cut, like a buddley in early spring, there will be very few flowers. That's why early flowering shrubs pruned immediately after flowering. Then the plants will re-sprout new shoots, laying a good foundation for flowering next year. The only exceptions are shrubs with beautiful fruits, such as callicarpa and European euonymus. Although they bloom in the spring, shortening the branches immediately after flowering will cut off the fruits. Such shrubs should only be rejuvenated once every 5 years, completely removing old branches in late autumn.

In some shrubs, flowers appear on perennial branches. These shrubs include irga and lilac. They don't need to be trimmed regularly. It is enough to thin out the bushes every few years. And pruning is generally contraindicated for dogwood.

When cutting a plant, many gardeners allow the same Error: They cut overgrown shrubs with hedge shears only from above, equalizing the bushes at the same height. This, in turn, can lead to plants not blooming at all or losing their attractiveness. As a result, a new root shoot appears and the plant is rejuvenated. The function of the old branch can also be entrusted to a younger lateral process.

To do this, cut the branch above the shoot selected by the side branch. The branch continues to grow, but the young shoot now plays the role of the top. By removing only individual branches, you will help the shrub retain its natural shape, and in winter, even without leaves, it will look beautiful. In general, the more radical the pruning, the more young shoots appear on the shrub. In summer, they also need to be thinned out well, otherwise the bush will soon grow to the same size.

At all strong thickening on grafted shrubs is not permissible. Otherwise, wild shoots from the rootstock will quickly crowd out the cultivated graft.

Shrubs with brightly colored bark.

There are shrubs, such as white and silky derains, which do not differ in the special splendor of flowers or leaf color, but they are the owners of bright branches.

This advantage is especially noticeable in winter. However, only young shoots differ in catchy coloring; after 3-4 years, the color of the bark becomes faded. Therefore, the goal of pruning such shrubs is the formation of new shoots. Plant Needs to be thinned out every year in early spring shortly before shoots appear, cutting off all branches older than three years near the surface of the soil. Running turf bushes can be thinned out throughout the season.

Also cut:

silky turf (Cornus sericea), wolf willow (Salix daphnoides), Cockburn raspberry (Rubus cockbur-nianus), white turf (Сornus alba)

Beautiful after pruning or without it:

blooming turf (Cornus florida), koase turf (Сornus kousa), folded viburnum (Viburnum plicatum) Mariesii, fotergilla (Fothergilla), controversial turf (Cornus controversa), corylopsis (Corylopsis spicata).

Pruning lavender.

In order for the lavender to smell fragrant in full force in the summer, and its bush to have a harmonious appearance, the plant must be cut 2 times a year using hedge shears.

For the first time in spring, when the temperature begins to rise gradually, the tops of the shoots are shortened by a third, giving the bush a semicircular shape.

The second time in the fall, when the inflorescences are already dry. This time, flower stalks are removed along with 2-3 upper pairs of leaves.

Similarly, young plants are pruned in the first year after planting. Then the lavender grows, creating a dense carpet. If the lavender is not cut, then the shoots become woody to the very tips. In this case, the plant will lose its compact shape and will not tolerate stronger spring pruning.

Some gardeners trim the lavender with pruning shears, but it is better to use hedge shears, they make it easier to give the bush a uniform cushion shape. See that the bush has acquired the shape of a hemisphere. Dry branches can be used to flavor the room.

pruning hydrangeas

Depending on the species, hydrangeas lay flower buds at different times of the year, and care for each depends on this. specific type. So, for example, in large-leaved hydrangea, flowers appear on last year's growths. This means that flower buds are laid on them last summer, so the plant cannot be cut in spring.

But in paniculate hydrangea, flowering takes place on young shoots of the current year, so its bushes can be cut quite radically. Shade-tolerant tree hydrangea globular inflorescences also appear on annual growths. However, in any case, hydrangeas of all kinds, every 3-4 years, need a thorough anti-aging pruning, then the bushes will always have a beautiful compact shape.

Like every rule has its own Exceptions, and here: almost every type of hydrangea has at least one variety, in which flowers are laid differently than in other relatives. Therefore, it is best to learn about the features of each species and variety from specialized reference books, even before buying a new green pet.

Hydrangea large-leaved ABOUTWe shave slightly. In large-leaved hydrangea, pollinated hydrangea and oak-leaved hydrangea, flowers appear on biennial branches. In order for the bushes to grow evenly and acquire a beautiful shape, in the first year after planting They are not cut at all.. Late winter or early spring Only dry inflorescences should be removed, carefully cutting them above the first pair of buds, but not below. Otherwise, you will remove already planted flower buds, and the plant will not bloom. And so that young shoots constantly form on hydrangeas, The bush must be thinned out every 3-4 years. To do this, cut off the old branches, which have begun to bloom weakly, flush with the soil surface.

Hydrangea paniculata needs medium pruning. Panicled hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata) is significantly different from other types of hydrangeas, cone-shaped inflorescences. Since its flower buds are formed on annual branches and shoots of the current year, this plant blooms profusely, even if it has suffered from severe frosts. In the spring, during the first three years after planting, all strong skeletal branches should be shortened by a third, weaker ones by half. In an adult plant remove old branches growing in the middle of the bush, and also cut off annuals with dried inflorescences, up to four kidneys. Young shoots with flower buds appear from them. Without pruning, the bush grows strongly, in which case it will need to be thinned out as soon as possible. Exceptions, for varieties Rgaesoh AND Dharuma buds appear on last year's branches (growths), so they are not cut off. Only at the end of summer can you remove the withering of the inflorescence.

Hydrangea tree is frost-resistant and abundant flowering. Thanks to its bright white, pom-pom-like inflorescences - balls, it will perfectly fit into both rustic and modern style garden. The most hardy variety of hydrangea tree Annabelle, the flowers of which are painted at first in a pale green color, blooming, gradually become white. This and less famous varieties Grandiflora And white dome, flowers appear on the shoots of the current year. Therefore, in early spring it can be without remorse shorten, leaving 15-20 cm above the soil surface. Thanks to such a radical pruning, more inflorescences will appear on the bush, while they will be larger. Young plants should be handled more carefully and pruned more moderately. In May, after the appearance of leaves, the plant is usually no longer pruned. Since these hydrangeas have very heavy and large inflorescences, they need support. Tip: shorten part of the stems again in mid-June, then later the shrub will begin to bloom again and this will last until autumn.

Rose cutting.

Distinguished by time autumn, spring and summer pruning , of which spring is considered the main one. At the same time, for each group of roses, from small flower beds to high climbing ones, there are their own pruning rules.

Most Suitable Time for spring pruning of roses, comes in April, namely when the forsythia flowers bloom. As a rule, this means that the threat of hard frosts has already passed and soon the queen of flowers will have new shoots. However, if the rose needs to be thinned out or individual old branches removed, then this can be done in the fall.

Cut branches should not be left in the garden or composted. Then it will be possible to prevent the spread to other plants of pathogenic microbes, fungi that cause black spot and powdery mildew.

shrub roses(repair) single and re-blooming pruned differently. The latter include all modern varieties, park roses, as well as many English roses that bloom magnificently all summer. Early in the spring they need to be thinned out, removing first of all, dry and damaged branches. Shorten the side shoots on the outside of the bush by about 5 buds. This contributes to more abundant flowering.

If desired, you can shorten the shrub in height by one and two thirds of the length. Single-blooming varieties include many old varieties. They bloom profusely on last year's growth. In order for the next year shoots with flower buds to form on the plants, immediately after flowering, such roses should be cut off.

floribunda, hybrid tea and miniature roses.

First, frozen, dry and damaged branches are removed., then the stems growing inside the bush, and cut to a healthy tissue. Then 3-5 of the youngest and strongest stems are shortened, taking into account the strength of growth and varietal features every plant. In roses from the Floribunda and hybrid tea groups, 3-4 lower well-developed buds are left on each stem, more in vigorous varieties. Miniature and ground cover roses are not pruned at all in spring, and in the summer, faded inflorescences are removed, with 1-2 leaves.

Climbing roses.

At remontant climbing roses in spring Cut out all the old stems, leaving 5-6 strong annual growths, and if there are few of them, then several biennial ones, and shorten the side branches to 3-5 buds. After pruning, the stems are carefully tied to a support, if possible, directing the stems at the top horizontally or at an angle, which stimulates flowering. In summer, wilted flowers are removed along with 2-3 leaves, after which the roses quickly bloom again.

Single-flowering ramblers, such as varieties Veilchenblau, do not cause much trouble. Their flowering runs along the entire length of the overwintered stems of last year's growth, so pruning is reduced to removing all old stems and shortening lateral shoots to 20-25 cm.

Standard roses.

When pruning stem roses, it is important to know which group the variety grafted onto the stem belongs to.. If it belongs to the hybrid tea, floribunda or shrub roses, the compact form forms mainly upright branches. To give the crown of the standard rose a rounded shape, the scion branches of such plants are shortened to 20-30 cm in early spring.

If the crown of a standard rose is represented by varietal miniature roses, then they are pruned just as much. Things are different with roses with drooping stems, the so-called weeping or cascading. standard roses. They scion climbing roses, including ramblers, as well as miniature roses with drooping stems. In cascading roses, only too long branches are shortened. However, in order for the rose to remain beautiful and bloom profusely from year to year, it is still necessary to remove branches that are too old from time to time, thereby freeing up space for the formation of young growths.

Important: Before you start cutting the queen of flowers, sharpen your secateurs well. Then the cut will turn out even, and besides, you will spend less time on a haircut.

We cut shrubs and conifers, the theory and practice of topiary - articles about plants - articles about plants - cottage - nursery of ornamental plants and garden center

We cut shrubs and conifers: the theory and practice of topiary - articles about plants - articles about plants - cottage - ornamental plant nursery and garden center

Perhaps, cutting plants is the earliest of the garden hobbies that came to the mind of a person. Even in ancient Rome there were masters who had a good command of art, the name of which is topiary. It received its “second birth” only in the sixteenth century in France. The minds of the local landowners were captured by the idea of ​​​​creating gardens similar to regular Italian gardens. In fairness, it must be said that haircuts were also present in Italian gardens, but it was in France that the “golden age” in the development of topiary art happened. It was not good to show your guests a garden that had not been touched by the hand of a man with scissors.

Whole open-air palaces with halls, corridors, enfilades were built from plants. They had both walls and sculptural decor. varying degrees complexity, but both are from sheared plants. It is clear that the composition of the rocks for the first and second cases is not the same.

In Europe, there are enough plants for any option. In the second case, small foliage is especially important, giving a good surface texture, close arrangement of leaves from each other, strong branching, which gives a less through fine-textured crown. I must say that with us, with an assortment of plants that would have such characteristics, and besides, they tolerated a haircut, it is not as good as in Europe, but they are. Of course, we cannot afford such a luxury as the Europeans, who even cut rhododendrons, or the Americans, who make all kinds of spirals and pyramids from such, by our standards, “sissy” as the gray-haired Konik spruce.

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The pictures show two examples of haircuts. The first object is the garden of Vilandry, which was founded in the 16th century; it is served by a staff of high-class gardeners and the entrance there is not the cheapest tickets; it is located in the mild climate of France and there are no problems with boxwoods. The second object is seen every day from electric trains by thousands of people in the Moscow region, railway workers take care of it without any special skills, and due to the climate, a snowberry is used instead of boxwood. But despite all the differences in climate, location and conditions, both objects are interesting from the point of view of topiary art.

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Below is a table with an assortment of those types of wood with which this is still possible. Often in Europe they are not used for such purposes, since there is no need for this, and for us this is perhaps the only possibility. Alas, all kinds of yew and boxwood bears, peacocks and others currently on sale behave, unfortunately, like annuals, which is not entirely pleasant, given their cost, amounting to hundreds of dollars, and the option of taking them away for the winter to cold greenhouses is not all arranges.

Once upon a time, this already happened, Peter I brought both boxwood and yew from Holland to the emerging St. Petersburg, but they had to be replaced quickly enough with local breeds. And spruce, juniper, linden were used, and on the curbs - what would you think? Cowberry! It got to the point that the study and use of local plant resources for these purposes has become a state task. It is unfortunate that we could not take into account the experience of those generations, and history repeats itself again ...

TABLE --------------------

The name of the plant and what can be obtained from it

Japanese quince (ChaenomelesJaponica)

Valuable in that it blooms and bears fruit when sheared, but small balls from it look good, and cubes and parallelepipeds look rough

Acacia yellow (CaraganaArborescens)

Parallelepiped, cube and ball of medium and small size, as well as various simple figures on the trunk

Barberry ordinary (BerberisVulgaris)

A parallelepiped, a cube and a sphere of medium and small size, beautiful umbrella-shaped haircuts and simple figures on a low or medium trunk. One of the longest lasting shearing plants

Ottawa barberry (BerberisXOttawensis)

A parallelepiped, a cube and a sphere of medium and small size, beautiful umbrella-shaped haircuts and simple figures on a low or medium trunk. One of the longest lasting shearing plants with purple leaves

Barberry Thunberg (BerberisThunbergii)

Parallelepiped, cube and ball of medium and small size, relatively complex curly haircuts (bulb, umbrella, pyramid, vase, etc.). Interesting in the presence of a huge number of varieties with different foliage colors

Common privet (LigustrumVulgare)

Simple geometric figures medium and small size. Requires a protected place, for haircuts it is better to purchase planting material domestic production

prickly hawthorn (CrataegusOxyacantha)

Simple geometric figures of large and medium size, figures on a not very high stem (umbrellas, balls) Alas, but over time it becomes bare from below

Hawthorn single-petal (CrataegusMonogyna)

Simple geometric figures of large and medium size, figures on a stem that is not too high (umbrellas, balls), as well as imitation of Japanese bonsai

Siberian hawthorn (CrataegusSanguinea)

Simple geometric figures of large and medium size, figures on a not very high trunk (umbrellas, balls), imitation of Japanese bonsai. Over time, exposed from below

HawthornSpurred(Crataegus crus galli)

Simple geometric figures of large and medium size, figures on a not very high trunk (umbrellas, balls). Over time, exposed from below.

Elm smooth (UlmusLaevis)

A parallelepiped and a cube are possible, but they are obtained with somewhat worn edges, but medium and large balls, both on the ground and on a low trunk, are good. Unfortunately, can be damaged by Dutch elm disease.

Elm Pinnate (UlmusPinato— Ramosa)

A parallelepiped, a cube and a ball of medium and large size, as well as the same figures, but on a trunk. The finest texture of the elms when sheared and completely unaffected by Dutch disease, but requiring a protected location

Pear loholistnaya (PyrusElaeagrifolia)

A parallelepiped, a pyramid, a cube, a ball of medium and small size, as well as figures on a low stem. Leaves are silvery. May produce root shoots

Common pear (PyrusCommunis)

Large, simple geometric shapes that become spectacular in autumn when the leaves turn orange.

doren white (CornusAlba)

Simple geometric shapes of medium size, preferably without edges. One of the few shearing plants and at the same time growing in the shade. Its color forms and varieties can be used

Canadian spruce (PiceaGlauca)

Parallelepiped, cube, pyramid, ball of medium and large size, excellent standard forms. The edges of the figures cut from this plant are read quite clearly and, moreover, they are evergreen.

Prickly spruce (PiceaPungens)

Parallelepiped, cube, pyramid, ball, column of medium and large size, excellent standard forms. The edges of the figures cut from this plant are read quite clearly, the figures themselves can be made from a variety of silver-coniferous forms of this species, retaining color throughout the year.

Norway spruce (PiceaAbies), Siberian spruce (PiceaObovata)

Parallelepiped, cube, pyramid, ball of medium and large size, excellent standard forms. The edges of the figures cut from these plants are readable, and besides, these figures turn out to be evergreen. Can be used in partial shade

Irga canadian (AmelanchierLamarckii)

The parallelepiped and the cube will look rather sloppy due to the wear of the edges, but a medium-sized ball, umbrella, etc. - completely. In autumn, the color of the foliage is unusually beautiful, it is also interesting in spring, when blooming.

Kalina pride (ViburnumLantana)

The parallelepiped and the cube will look rather sloppy due to the wear of the edges, but a medium-sized ball, umbrella, etc. - completely. Unlike the common viburnum, it is not damaged by the leaf beetle at all, and the figures are kept until autumn.

Cotoneaster brilliant (CotoneasterLucida)

Simple geometric figures of medium and small size, turning orange-yellow in autumn

Ginnala maple (AcerGinnala)

Simple geometric shapes with smooth outlines, they are also on the trunk, as well as an imitation of Japanese bonsai. In autumn it turns into unusual spectacular colors, but, alas, it blooms late in the spring

Field maple (AcerCampestre)

A parallelepiped, a cube, a pyramid, a ball, an umbrella on a trunk of medium and large sizes, as well as an imitation of Japanese bonsai. Requires a secure location

Maple Tatar (AcerTataricum)

Simple geometric shapes with smooth outlines, they are also on the stem, as well as an imitation of Japanese bonsai

Needle gooseberry (GrossulariaAcicularis)

Cubes with well-read faces, dense balls, both on the ground and on the trunk, cones. Fast growing and easy to propagate, absolutely unpretentious

Potentilla Dahurian (PotentillaDavurica), Potentilla shrub (Potentillafruticosa)

balls small size, which partly also bloom with single flowers

Large-leaved linden (TiliaPlatyphyllos)

Any simple geometric shapes of smooth configurations of medium and large size, both on the ground and on the trunk. One of the most shear resistant plants

Linden Manchurian (TiliaMandshurica), small-leaved linden (TiliaCordata)

Any simple geometric shapes of medium and large size, both on the ground and on the trunk. One of the most shear resistant plants

Siberian larch (LarixSibirica)

Parallelepiped, cube, column, ball on the ground and on a trunk of medium and large size. In autumn, the figures turn orange-yellow.

Goof silver (ElaeagnusCommutate)

Parallelepiped, cube, ball and other simple medium-sized figures, which are very effective due to silver color foliage. When shearing, root shoots are activated, which must be limited

Mahonia holly (MahoniaAquifolium)

Small balls with a rather rough surface texture, but evergreen (in winter, however, they can be completely covered with snow)

Common Juniper (JuniperusCommunis)

Various geometric figures, more often of a vertically linear plan (column, parallelepiped, etc.) of medium size, bluish color. They can burn in the sun, which seriously spoils their appearance.

Siberian fir (AbiesSibirica)

Parallelepiped, cube, ball on the ground and on the stem of medium and large size. The figures are evergreen, although rather slowly created due to the low growth rate of the tree.

Bubbleweed (Physocarpus opulifolius)

Only balls, hemispheres, etc. look good. Geometric figures with edges are somewhat sloppy. You can play on color, as the species has many colored varieties

Alpine currant (RibsAlpinum)

You can cut not only simple geometric shapes, but also relatively complex ones, since the leaf is small, and the branching is quite strong

Currant golden (RibsAureum)

Only balls, hemispheres, etc. look relatively good. Geometric figures with faces are somewhat sloppy

Snowberry white (SymphoricarposAlbus)

Various not very complex geometric figures of small size

mountain pine (PinusMugo)

By pinching chlorophyll-free shoots, you can form almost perfect balls, and by combining it with cutting individual branches - umbrellas and bonsai-like forms

Scotch pine (PinusSylvestris)

From dwarf forms, by plucking chlorophyll-free shoots and partial removal of the main branches, spectacular umbrella-shaped, spherical and bonsaic moldings are obtained.

Spiraea Bumalda (SpiraeaBumalda)

Various not very complex geometric figures of small size. If you cut the ball immediately after flowering, then it is overgrown with young shoots and blooms the next year.

Spirea Vangutta (SpiraeaVanhouttei), Spiraea oak-leaved (SpiraeaChamaedryfolia)

Various not very complex geometric shapes of small and medium size, alas, to the detriment of beautiful flowering

Japanese spirea (SpiraeaJaponica)

Various not very complex geometric figures of small size. If you cut the ball immediately after flowering, then it is overgrown with young shoots and blooms the next year. There are varieties and forms with colored foliage.

Thuja western (ThujaOccidentalis)

A lot of simple and medium complexity geometric shapes of various sizes (the list of shapes and varieties varies greatly in size characteristics). Color forms available

Nezvetsky's apple tree (MalusNiedzwetzkyana), Siberian apple tree (MalusBaccata), plum-leaved apple tree (MalusPrunifolia)

A parallelepiped, a cube, a ball on the ground and on a trunk of medium and large size, as well as all kinds of tapestries and cordons

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We have already said that for curly haircut, of course, it is preferable to use plants with a small leaf. But on the other hand, if in its form it is not a very complex topiary, then the sheet does not have to be too small (in our table this relationship is clearly shown). Of course, plants with large leaves, as a rule, also create a rather rough texture of the sheared surface. But the simpler the cut figure, the less noticeable it is. It is also important to note that if the cut figure has ribs (for example, a pyramid, not a cone), then in this case it would be more logical to use small-leaved species. They will, when sheared regularly, form a surface with an elegant, even, finely porous texture, and, most importantly, the ribs of these figures will be clearly visible, which is difficult to achieve when using plants with large leaves. If it is, for example, a ball, or another figure with smooth outlines, then even large foliage does not always look rough.

When choosing an assortment for a haircut do not focus on the beauty of a particular plant during flowering. Molding in most species excludes flowering. Only those few plants bloom, the flower buds of which are located not at the ends of the shoots, as in spireas or cinquefoils, but more or less along its entire length (forsythia, Japanese quince). The lack of color spots as a result of the lack of flowering in many sheared plants can be made up for by using decorative hardwoods.

Unlike flowering Decorative leaves as a characteristic not only does not weaken, but also intensifies when shearing. The fact is that in most of these forms (regardless of whether they are purple, golden or some other), these colors appear most clearly on the leaves of young growing shoots. And pruning the plant stimulates the growth of these particular shoots in in large numbers. Therefore, for example, the Ottawa ‘Superba’ barberry trimmed in the form of a ball seems more purple than its uncut “brother” growing nearby, since its surface is abundantly covered with growing young bright red shoots with leaves of the same color.

The use of conifers with different needle colors for similar purposes is subject to the same patterns. The growing shoots, whether it be the golden form of the western thuja or the blue prickly spruce, will have a more saturated color. Unlike deciduous, they also give this effect throughout the year.

Different forms of hawthorn haircut.

I would like to briefly address the issue Stylistics. Many people think molded plants are exclusive to the regular garden. This is not entirely true. Yes, of course, in a regular garden they are used much more often than in a landscape one. But today it is customary to use a haircut in gardens of various types. It also finds its application in the Japanese garden. There it is impossible not to use haircuts for garden bonsai (which, in fact, are not bonsai, but nonetheless). They also cut their hair in a modern conceptual garden, where it is possible to use cubes, balls and pyramids of various sizes.

For relatively Simple geometric shapes(ball cube, cone) there are a number of suitable both coniferous and deciduous plants. These are practically the plants that are listed in our table. They create a different surface texture, have different colors, they can be used to make figures of various sizes, but they are all stable in the conditions of central Russia.

Quite spectacular balls on boles are obtained from spruces, thujas, maples (especially field ones). We can form a ball from both gooseberries and currants. True, cutting the crown into the right ball, you exclude for yourself the possibility of receiving fruits, but, as they say, "not by bread alone ...".

Of course, super-figured haircuts of boxwood "Mickey Mouse" and yew "Mary Popins", which are full of parks in Europe and America, are impossible with us. Here, either figured supports entwined with climbing plants, or the same supports, but stuffed with a substrate and planted with succulent plants, can be used. But that's another topic.

Above, we mentioned fairly common haircuts. "under the bonsai". For these haircuts, the forms and varieties of mountain pine and common pine, field maple, winged euonymus are suitable. Everyone can try to make bonsai from the most ordinary pine.

Spectacular Umbrella haircuts. They are interesting from Canadian shadberry, field maple, winged euonymus, dwarf common pine, such as ‘Waterery’ and similar ones.

Very popular fruit moldings. This thing is not new, it also takes place in domestic gardening, but it is interesting for us because it allows, by forming a crown, for example, flat, to significantly save space in the garden without harming the crop.

Sheared arches, consisting of two plants, are interesting. In Europe, hornbeam is often used, we may well have linden. This favorite technique of Europeans can be performed with the help of small-leaved linden, especially since there has already been a similar experience in Russia. This is a berso, or, as they were also called, bending roads, which are covered alleys of intertwined tree branches, either on a support or without it.

Even more exotic are elements of garden furniture made of trees and shrubs. It's rather decorative element than real furniture perhaps debatable for a garden, but who knows...

Individual clients order their initials in nurseries, cut, for example, from yew. For us, this thing is absolutely unrealistic. We can do something similar only from climbing plants on a frame.

But spreading in Europe Roof haircuts They may well be obtained from us, for example, from linden. They are straight stems of plants, absolutely cleared of branches up to a certain height (usually 2.5 m), and above all branches with the help of a frame are formed in a horizontal plane, parallel or not parallel to the ground. It turns out a canopy on poles, where both the poles and the roof itself are alive.

A somewhat newer thing than just a haircut has appeared in recent decades in European and American nurseries. We are talking about haircuts combined with vaccinations. In this way, you can get, for example, golden, green and blue coniferous balls on one trunk different size, or weeping forms crowned with sheared cones, and the like. In general, full scope for imagination, which is quite accessible to you, although very controversial in terms of aesthetics. It's too easy to get carried away here and, as always, cross that fine line ... But talent is, first of all, a sense of proportion.

Often a haircut can give Second life for a plant. For example, the tender form of some kind of spruce could not stand the winter-spring sun, or an adult mountain pine broke down from the snow that fell from the roof. Do not despair. Take a closer look at what's left, and think about what you can do with it. Maybe you will completely clear the lower part of the branches by creating a low trunk. And on it, if it is a spruce or thuja, you will begin to form a ball. In this case, in 2-3 years you will have an evergreen ball on the trunk. And in a broken pine, maybe you will see beautiful lines and refine it into a bonsai.

In general, there are many options for creativity, but remember that caring for a garden with clipped plants is not just troublesome. This is constant work. You can’t rest, because all the work of the previous decades can go down the drain. Each haircut stimulates growth, and the more you cut, the more you will have to cut, as strange as it sounds. So choose.

Haircut technique: advice from Alexander Sapelin

1. Remember that Subsequent cut always need to do a little higher than the previous one. If you cut year after year along the same line, then sooner or later the plant will grow and become bare.

2. pinching pines in order to form a denser crown of the desired configuration, it must be completed before the chlorophyll-free shoots turn green (they do not break as well as the grey-brown chlorophyll-free ones).

3. Pinching chlorophyll-free pine shoots, it makes sense to leave small stumps one finger phalanx long.

4. Chlorophyll-free pine shoots It is better not to cut, but to pinch by hand. When pruning, some of the needles can also be removed, which do not fall off, but remain yellow on the plant, making it look not quite healthy.

5. When forming boles in plants, which have the ability to form stump growth, it makes sense to initially plant them on a stump, cutting it off hard. This stimulates the growth of straight strong shoots, from which it will be easier to choose a contender for a bole than from a branched bush.

6. Form pruning of large deciduous trees with an average growth rate, it is recommended to carry out in the spring (in the middle lane, usually in March), before the start of sap flow and in the fall, after leaf fall.

7. Form pruning of coniferous trees it is recommended to carry out in the spring or at the end of June, after the end of the growth of their shoots.

8. Periodicity of forming cuts depends on the growth rate of the tree, but in most cases it has to be done at least once a year. Shrubs are cut 2-3 times a year.

9. When forming shrubs, which are not sufficiently shade-tolerant, it makes sense to choose such shapes, the geometry of which narrows from bottom to top, and not vice versa. Otherwise, all the lower branches will sooner or later lose their leaves, and the plant will lose the shape conceived by the cutter.

10. Most shrubs it is not recommended to cut more than 2/3 of annual growths at a time. The only exceptions are particularly fast-growing shrubs.

11. Before you start Form a spherical crown At the tree, it is necessary to cut the lower branches and the vertical axial shoot, and leave the rest long, regularly crowning them until the required shape is obtained (see item 13).

12. When forming a cone-shaped crown do the opposite of what is written in paragraph 11. Here, the lower branches and the axial shoot are left as they are, and the remaining branches are pruned. After that, the crown is regularly crowned until the desired shape is obtained.

13. One way Formation of a spherical crown In trees, this is a regular pruning of the axial shoot (by 3-5 buds) and a slight pruning of the side shoots (often just pinching the tips). At the same time, care must be taken to ensure that individual shoots do not leave the ball zone. When pinching side shoots, it is important that when pruning, the last remaining bud on them is external and works to expand the crown.

14. When forming a ball from most shrubs, as a rule, they do not track the location of the kidneys, but simply give the required shape.

15. Pruning deciduous plants should start at an early age. It is difficult to make a ball from an overgrown bush, for example, a barberry, if there were no moldings before that. With many conifers, molding can also begin when the plants are already at a fairly mature age.