Deep impregnation of wood with your own hands. Impregnation for wood: DIY

In this article: wood preservative antiseptics; how to make an antiseptic preparation yourself; ready-made antiseptics - types and characteristics; recommendations on the choice and use of preparations for wood protection.

The oldest, if not classical, material for the construction of any building on Earth was and remains wood. This building material is present on our planet everywhere and in abundance, thereby providing earthlings with constant structural material to create houses and their decoration. However, wood is far from ideal - it is exposed to microorganisms and insects, ultraviolet radiation, it changes its volume depending on the degree of humidity inside the room and a series of warm / cold seasons outside the building, causing deformations in the building structure. In addition, wood is flammable. How to be the owner of a wooden house, is it really possible to demolish it and build a brick or stone one? Not at all, it is only necessary to timely process the wooden structures of the house with preparations that have antiseptic, moisture-proof and fire-retardant properties.

How to protect wood from moisture, insects and fungus

Any wood absorbs moisture like a sponge, which invariably leads to its decay. Ways to protect a tree from moisture were searched for by the ancient Greeks, who covered wooden buildings layer of olive oil. However, neither their method, nor the more modern one, which consists in painting wooden structures with several layers of paints and varnishes, did not give a long-term effect. There are two reasons for this: a layer of paint can only protect the tree from the outside, without affecting the internal processes of decay (biological corrosion); any layer of paint will eventually crack and peel off under the influence of the environment surrounding it, exposing the wood and allowing moisture to access it.

Conventional paints and varnishes consist of a pigment suspension suspended in binders that form a film upon application. thin layer on the surface. Such paints are able to provide external protection to wooden structures only if they are chosen correctly, based on the conditions in which this wooden building will be used, as well as with the timely restoration of painted areas in case of damage. More effective wood protection is achieved when it is treated with antiseptic preparations (impregnates), which include biocides.

Wood treatment with biocidal preparations is carried out by the following methods:

• antiseptic solution is applied paint brush;
• wooden surfaces are treated with an antiseptic by means of a spray;
• wooden structures are completely immersed in biocidal solutions, heated or not heated.

Greater efficiency of antiseptic protection of wood is achieved by industrial processing methods:

• impregnation in an autoclave;
• maintaining structural elements in steam-cold and hot-cold containers;
• diffusion impregnation, during which a pasty material with an antiseptic is applied to a wooden product and gradually penetrates into its structure.

As antiseptics, aqueous solutions of sodium fluoride and sodium silicofluoride, copper and ferrous sulfate, as well as clay, extract, bituminous pastes and oil antiseptics (creosote, etc.) are used - their use increases the biocidal protection of wood, but they cannot be used for the color of wooden structures, i.e. unable to give them decorative qualities.

The most common impregnate among oil antiseptics is creosote, an unpleasantly smelling liquid, colorless or with a yellowish tinge, obtained from coal or wood tar. Creosote owes its popularity railway tracks- they were impregnated with wooden sleepers. This antiseptic does not have a corrosive effect on metals, but gives the wood impregnated with it a dark brown color. Creosote is poisonous (contains phenols), so homeowners who use "free" old sleepers in the construction of houses and summer cottages are making a big mistake.

sodium fluoride- powder white color with a grayish tint, the highest solubility in hot water is 3.5-4.5%. It has high antiseptic properties, penetrates well into the structure of wood, does not corrode metal. Sodium fluoride is poisonous to insects and fungi, dangerous to animals and humans. It must be taken into account that when sodium fluoride in dry and solution form comes into contact with chalk, lime, alabaster and cement, it loses its antiseptic properties, i.e. ceases to be poisonous to insects and fungi - reacting with calcium salts, it passes into a stable state that does not allow it to be dissolved in water. To prepare an antiseptic solution, water with a low content of lime salts (soft water) is needed - river or rain.

Fluorosilicic sodium is a white powder with gray or yellow tint, slightly soluble in water - no more than 2.4% at a temperature of 100 ° C. It has significantly less antiseptic properties compared to sodium fluoride, because slightly soluble in water. The toxicity of sodium silicofluoride increases if technical ammonia, soda ash or other alkaline substances are introduced into its aqueous solution, as a result of the reaction with which it forms an aqueous solution of sodium fluoride.

Copper sulfate (copper sulfate) in dry form it has the form of crystals of blue color. Solubility in water 28%, antiseptic effect is much weaker than that of solutions with sodium fluoride. In addition, copper sulfate solution has a strong corrosive effect on ferrous metals - this antiseptic can not be used on wooden structures containing any iron fasteners.

Dry ferrous sulfate (ferrous sulfate) looks like green crystals. Let's dissolve well in water - up to 25% in cold, up to 55% in hot. It has weak antiseptic properties, similar to the biocidal effect of a copper sulfate solution, and does not corrode iron.

Biocidal pastes are made from several components - a water-soluble antiseptic (sodium fluoride or fluorosilicone), an astringent component ( liquid glass, bitumen, clay, etc.) and peat powder as a filler. Due to their visibility after application to wood, such pastes are used to protect hidden wooden elements- recessed ends of pillars, beams, etc.

Do-it-yourself antiseptics

In the presence of chemical reagents, you can make an aqueous solution of the impregnate yourself, using soft rain or river water:

• based on copper sulfate (copper sulfate) or ferrous sulfate (iron sulfate). In the first case, the reagent consumption is 100 g per liter hot years, in the second - 150 g per liter hot water;
• based on sodium fluoride. Consumption 100 g per liter of hot water;
• based table salt and boric acid. Dissolve 50 g of boric acid and 950 g of table salt in 5 liters of boiling water, treat the wood 2-3 times with this composition. The effect of wood protection will be short-lived, but double the service life wooden products still succeed.

Parties wooden poles that will be buried in the ground can be protected from rotting by keeping them in a biocidal solution.

Attention: without exception, all biocidal preparations designed to protect wood from the effects of insects and fungi are extremely toxic to humans, you can work with them only with strong rubber gloves, you will need goggles and a respirator!

In a wooden or plastic barrel, a 20% aqueous solution of copper sulfate is prepared (the container is half filled with water), the pillars are immersed in it with the side that will be buried in the ground. The poles must be kept in the biocide solution for at least 48 hours, then they must be removed from the solution and placed under a canopy for a month, while the sides of the poles impregnated with an antiseptic should be at the top.

Ready-made wood preservatives - types and characteristics

The aqueous solutions of biocides described above protect wood from various kinds fungus and insects, however, such impregnation is not able to protect itself from being washed out by moisture coming from the outside - special factory-made preparations are required for full protection against precipitation and ultraviolet radiation. Such ready-made impregnations with impregnations are divided into systemic - ground, covering and glazing - and complex, i.e. having the qualities of three systemic drugs at once.

The purpose of system impregnations is as follows:

• antiseptic primers for wood, containing little or no pigment at all, are designed to penetrate deeply into the structure of the tree. As a rule, they are sold in a concentrated form and diluted with water in a certain proportion. The average cost of a liter of biocidal primer is 350 rubles;
• opaque antiseptics protect wood and, at the same time, are able to retain their color regardless of the original color of the surfaces they are applied to. If necessary, they are diluted with water. The cost of 0.9 kg of covering antiseptic is about 470 rubles;
• alkyd-alcohol-based glazing antiseptics are used for biocidal protection of wood, and also provide high protection against moisture, forming after applying the second layer a strong protective film, the thickness of which exceeds the film thickness of conventional varnishes. Dissolved with white spirit, initially transparent, tinting is allowed up to a certain color shade. The average cost is 320 rubles. for 0.9 kg.

Complex preparations for wood protection, according to the characteristics declared by the manufacturers, are a covering stain, impregnation, a water repellent and, most often, a fire retardant. However, the protective characteristics of such products are doubtful, because each of the specialized systemic impregnations is applied separately and each of them penetrates the wood structure to the greatest depth, thereby providing maximum protection. But the complex preparation must simultaneously impregnate the tree with a biocide, color it and provide protection from moisture, which cannot be done equally well, because. too many additives. Accordingly, the service life of the complex coating is very short. Complex antiseptics are mostly water-soluble, their cost per liter ranges from 90 to 300 rubles.

The largest foreign manufacturers whose wood paint is also designed to combat biocorrosion: Tikkurila (Finland), Selena (Poland), Alpa (France), Akzo N.V. (Netherlands), Belinka Belles (Slovenia). Among domestic manufacturers It is worth highlighting the products of LLC Expertekologiya, CJSC NPP Rogneda, LLC Senezh-preparaty and Federal State Unitary Enterprise SSC NIOPIK.

Fire retardant paint for wood

With all its structural advantages and environmental friendliness, wood burns perfectly and supports combustion, which means that wooden buildings need additional enhancement of fire retardant properties.

Fire retardants that reduce the combustibility of wood are produced in the form of impregnations, varnishes and paints, divided into two groups according to the principle of action:

• blocking the access of flame and high temperature to the wood. Such flame retardants act like a fire extinguisher - direct contact with an open flame causes them to swell with the formation of a foam layer on the surface of wooden structures;
• preventing combustion through the release of gases. They contain salts, the "resistance to fire" mode is activated when it comes into contact with fire.

Fire retardants of the first group during a fire should create a finely porous foam that retains heat-insulating properties at high ambient temperatures. Foaming of such fire retardant compounds is caused by organic amines and amides, which at high temperatures form gases - nitrogen, ammonia and carbon dioxide, swelling a softened coating consisting of resorcinol, dextrin, starch, sorbitol and phenol formaldehydes. Stabilization of the foamed coating is achieved by introducing metal oxides, perlite and aerosil into their composition.

Fire-retardant coatings in the form of paints, varnishes and coatings, which are usually used to protect metal structures, are not able to provide fire protection for wooden structures, because prolonged exposure to high temperatures causes them to peel off surfaces and exposes the wood, allowing open flames to reach it.

The greatest protection against flame for wooden structures is provided by impregnation with flame retardants, which penetrates into the wood structure, filling its pores and enveloping the fibers. Such impregnating compositions are colorless, contain salts soluble in water, melting when heated, enveloping wood surfaces with a film that protects against direct contact with fire or releases into large volume non-flammable gases blocking air access to the tree.

According to the depth of penetration into the wood, impregnations differ in:

• surface (capillary), penetrating into the tree at a depth of not more than 7 mm. Applied by brush or spray, its introduction does not reduce strength characteristics and does not cause internal stresses in the tree structure. Since the depth of penetration of such impregnations into wood is small, it is necessary to use reagents with a high degree of fire protection at low consumption;
• deep, the penetration depth into the wood is at least 10 mm. The effectiveness of deep impregnation is higher than that of surface impregnation, in addition, it allows you to preserve the texture of wood. However, its fire-retardant properties are provided by a significant amount of flame retardants, which leads to an increase in the weight of wood and a decrease in its strength characteristics. Deep impregnation is carried out in the factory under pressure, by autoclave-diffusion method and in hot-cold baths.

According to the degree of fire protection, flame retardants are the most effective, which include orthophosphoric, tripolyphosphoric and pyrophosphoric acids, as well as sodium salts - polyphosphates, tripolyphosphates and sodium dihydrogen phosphate.

Salt flame retardants based on various combinations of sulfate and ammonium chloride, diammonium phosphate, phosphoric acids, urea, sodium fluoride, etc. are most widely used on the Russian market for fire-retardant materials. The ingredients for such flame retardants are inexpensive, their aqueous solutions are easy to prepare, and after the water evaporates, their constituent components form a reliable fire-retardant layer.

According to the results mandatory certification fire retardant paint is divided into three groups:

• impregnation I-th group modifying the wood to be resistant to combustion, i. e. the weight loss of the treated wood sample does not exceed 9%;
• treatment with group II flame retardants makes it possible to obtain fire-resistant wood, the weight loss of which during combustion is no more than 25%;
• to III group impregnations include those compounds that have not been tested and are not fire retardant.

In the domestic market, flame retardants of domestic production are widely represented, their cost depends on the certified group - preparations I Groups cost an average of 250 rubles. per kg, belonging to the II group will cost the buyer about 40 rubles. per kg. As a rule, manufacturers of biocidal preparations simultaneously develop and manufacture fire retardants, so the impregnation of the above-mentioned products is also on the market. Russian companies, including OOO Gotika, OOO Senezh-Preparaty, OOO Expertekologiya and ZAO NPP Rogneda.

How to choose and use antiseptics and fire retardants

When choosing a wood preservative, it must be taken into account that the preparations of this group are not universal and are intended for a certain degree of biocorrosion. According to the degree of damage, they differ: wood without signs of insect and fungal activity; defeat in the initial stage; deep defeat. Based on the current situation with wooden structures, preparations and their concentration should be selected. External surfaces should be treated only with systemic preparations, the last of which should provide guaranteed protection from ultraviolet radiation and precipitation.

If you need to provide biocidal protection for bath or sauna premises, then such treatment should be carried out with preparations from only one company - the Finnish Tikkurila, the only manufacturer that guarantees the safety and effectiveness of its products in difficult sauna and bath conditions.

When choosing a fire retardant impregnation, pay attention to the conditions in which its operation is allowed. As a rule, there are preparations on the market intended for interior spaces, i.e. the surfaces treated by them should not be affected by atmospheric moisture, which will certainly wash out the flame retardant. To protect against moisture, the surfaces treated with flame retardant are covered with a layer of varnish, so the flame retardant preparation that is supposed to be applied to wooden walls from outside, should form a layer with good adhesion of paints and varnishes.

An important point when choosing a fire retardant will be the pH level of this drug. Flame retardants are produced with a concentration of hydrogen ions (pH) equal to 1.5, which practically coincides with that of concentrated acids. Such flame retardants are extremely dangerous for humans, their use and storage require compliance with a number of special conditions. In addition, preparations with a high pH value have an extremely aggressive effect on ferrous and non-ferrous metals, actively corroding them up to serious destruction.

Before purchasing, be sure to make sure that this antiseptic or fire retardant drug is safe for households after it dries - the relevant information should be present on the impregnation packaging. I repeat - information about the safety of antiseptics and flame retardants applies only to its operation after application and drying, in the process of working, any such preparation is extremely dangerous for humans!

Work with antiseptics and flame retardants is carried out only in rubber gloves, overalls covering the body, a respirator and goggles. Before processing, wooden structures must be cleaned of dirt and dust, the resin and the old paint layer must be removed, and if necessary, the surfaces must be cleaned with sandpaper. Impregnation is applied in two layers, if systemic treatment is used, then each preparation is applied in two layers. All depending on the service life declared by the manufacturer, re-treatment is best done every year or two. And one more thing - there are no drugs capable of providing biocidal protection for many years with one treatment!

In conclusion: flame retardants should not be counted on as some kind of final remedy for a fire - in the event of a fire in the household, treated with high-quality fire protection means wooden house there is 30 minutes during which they must put out the fire on their own or wait for the fire brigade to arrive.

Abdyuzhanov Rustam, rmnt.ru

I think no one needs to explain why a survivalist might need a water-repellent impregnation. Another thing is that it is not always possible to just buy it. And if everything goes exactly as the survivalists expect, then the opportunity to buy at least something long time it certainly won't. But at the same time, no one canceled the rains and high humidity, so making your own clothes and a tent is extremely a good idea. And if you consider that such a fabric gets dirty much worse, it becomes clear why people develop recipes. water-repellent impregnation from improvised means.

There are three effective ways, allowing you to create water-repellent impregnation at home. But they have some drawbacks, such as the need to use ingredients that you will not find in the wild. Seriously, we do not know, for example, what can replace laundry soap. As for other substances, everything is much simpler with them and their analogues can be found in nature. So.

Option 1

We will need:

• soda (linen) - 500 grams
• rosin powder - 500 grams
• acetone or ethyl alcohol - 500 mg
• water - 5 liters

Grind the soap to a state of shavings. You can use a grater, you can just cut it with a knife. We heat the water, but not up to 100 degrees, but up to 70 - that is, we hardly bring it to a boil. We dissolve soap shavings and soda in it. We pour rosin powder into alcohol, since it does not dissolve well in water, but, on the contrary, it is good in a chemical solvent. Pour alcohol with rosin into water and mix everything thoroughly.

We take the fabric to be soaked and immerse it in water for 12 hours (at least). After that, we take it out, slightly (precisely slightly) wring it out and lay it out to dry on a horizontal surface. The water will evaporate, but the fibers will be saturated with rosin, so they will absorb the liquid much worse. This does not affect the coloring, nor does it affect the strength of the fabric. Certainly, water-repellent impregnation will not be 100 percent effective, but it will actually dry much faster, and get wet, on the contrary, slower.

If there is no rosin powder at hand (and most likely it will not be), then it will be completely replaced by ordinary resin, which can simply be collected in the forest, especially in the coniferous. It's not difficult, but it can take a long time. Alcohol can be obtained if you understand at least a little the principles of home brewing (we will definitely talk about this, but another time). Soda can be obtained from the ashes of burned algae. By the way, this is quite an interesting point. This is because some recipes call for baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) rather than laundry soda (sodium carbonate). And according to the classics, laundry soda was used for the production of soap, which is much easier to get. So what will we use for our water-repellent impregnation exactly her.

Option 2

We will need:

• water - 10 liters
• laundry soap - 500 grams
• alum - 500 grams

We dissolve soap in 5 liters of warm water, immerse the fabric there for a while and take it out, wringing it out slightly. After that, we dissolve all the alum in the remaining water, immerse the fabric there again, leave it for a while, take it out and let it dry.

There is another way - the stage with soap is exactly the same, but the alum solution is sprayed onto the fabric through a conventional spray gun. Just make sure that the insoluble sediment does not clog the outlet hole. You need to spray until the liquid begins to drain from the fabric. Then let it dry a little and apply alum again.

Option 3

We will need:

• water - 6 liters
• alum - 150 grams
• lead acetate - 150 grams

Actually, the method is good because it is necessary for water-repellent impregnation ingredients can be found in the wild. Difficult, but possible. The downside is that the mixture in which the fabrics are to be soaked is poisonous. So at least the dishes will need to be washed thoroughly. Yes, and it is better to work with gloves.

Lead sugar is an ancient sweetener made by boiling grape wine in lead cauldrons. It is difficult to find lead salts, but it is possible to process them with a bite and get acetate - too. As for alums, these are complex salts, in which there is also alkali metal, and ordinary metal. Most often, alum is aluminum-based and may well be found in the wild.

So, in one vessel we dissolve lead acetate (lead sugar) in 3 liters of warm water. In the second - alum in a similar amount. Give them time to settle, remove the sediment and drain the solutions together. Give them a few more hours to settle, remove the sediment and place the fabric there for a day. After that, dry the fabric without squeezing. This will give it not only protection from moisture, but also make it fire resistant.

PS. Oh yes, gentlemen, no one says, "That's how the fuck anyone can find the right chemicals in the wild!". We are well aware that without at least basic knowledge of geology and chemistry, this will not work. However, theoretically it is possible, and with some training it will become possible in practice. But no, no one said it was easy.

Processing wood with high-quality antiseptics can significantly increase its service life.

They are intended for effective protection wooden structures from mold, rot and destruction, as well as to improve performance.

For this, specially designed formulations that meet the basic safety requirements are suitable.

Wood protection begins with the selection of a suitable preservative.

Types of antiseptics and composition

Modern antiseptics are classified by composition, purpose and scope.

Depending on the main components that were used for the production protective equipment, impregnation for wood can be divided into the following types:

• Water soluble;
• Oily;
• organic;
• Combined.

water soluble

Impregnation on a water-soluble basis is intended for the prevention of wood processing various types. Wood preservative is used to protect surfaces that are not exposed to water.

For the production of water-soluble antiseptics, the following ingredients are used:

• Sodium silicon fluoride;
• sodium fluoride;
• BBC 3 ( boric acid and borax).

Oily

The most popular and demanded type of antiseptic, which is used to protect wooden structures from high moisture. The basis of such products are oils - anthracene, shale or coal.

Wood preservative gives the wood a dark saturated shade.

It does not dissolve in water, but has increased coefficient flammability and a strong oily smell, therefore it is used exclusively for external work.

organic

Organic type impregnation is not so in demand and is often used to protect outdoor wooden structures.

This type of wood preservative creates a thin protective film on the treated surface, improving the moisture absorbing and bonding characteristics of the wood.

The disadvantages include the possibility of staining surfaces in green and an increase in their porosity.

In addition, such products have a negative effect on metal elements, contributing to the development of corrosive processes.

Combined

Such antiseptic compositions successfully combine the performance characteristics of other types.

Purpose

Depending on the purpose, special wood protection is divided into two categories:

According to the area of ​​\u200b\u200buse, antiseptic for wood is divided into two categories:

1. For interior work. Impregnation of this type is used to protect structures and elements intended for interior spaces. Therefore, it is absolutely harmless and does not have a strong smell. It is important to remember that for each type of room it is necessary to choose the appropriate antiseptic.
2. For outdoor work. This category includes antiseptic impregnations and finishing agents designed for processing external wooden surfaces. They differ in wear resistance and resistance to aggressive influence. Compositions for external use have a specific pungent odor, are resistant to high moisture, low temperatures and ultraviolet. It is better not to use them for interior work.

Choosing the best antiseptic

Effective wood protection depends on which preservative has been chosen. To choose the right antiseptic compositions for a tree, it is important to consider some factors:

• Manufacturer;
• Composition;
• Purpose and area of ​​use;
• Type of wood;
• Consumption per sq.m.;
• Impact on the human body;
• Quality certificates;
• Price.

A reliable wood preservative should have a high toxicity to mold, fungus and harmful microorganisms.

No less important is the indicator of protective ability. So wood protection can be ineffective, medium efficiency, effective and high efficiency.

The finished preparation must fully correspond to the degree of damage to the wood. According to this characteristic, the antiseptic can be used on clean, unstained, slightly infested and heavily infested wood surfaces.

Impregnation for interior work must have an appropriate sanitary certificate of complete harmlessness for indoor use. Preparations for outdoor work should be different high rates resistance to low temperatures and ultraviolet radiation.

What antiseptic preparation is considered to be of high quality? One that adheres well to the surface and is compatible with any paint material.

Before buying, you should carefully read the instructions for use and check the expiration date of the drug.

It is worth refusing to purchase antiseptics from unknown manufacturers with the lack of the necessary quality certificates, because high cost is not always an indicator of quality.

Do-it-yourself antiseptic

A protective antiseptic for wood can be prepared independently, which will be much cheaper than purchased analogues. Most often, homemade antiseptic formulations are prepared from iron sulfate and sodium fluoride.

Vitriolic

Pour 100 g of ferrous sulfate and 10 g of potassium permanganate into a volumetric plastic container. Add 20 liters of water and mix thoroughly. Apply the finished composition to the surface to be treated with a brush or roller.

sodium

To prepare an antiseptic, you need 25 kg of sodium fluoride and 400 liters of water.

The finished mixture is best applied to a wooden surface by airless staining. After drying, the wood is carefully polished with a petal wheel and treated with finishing protective impregnations - oil, varnish or wax.

The difference between homemade and factory-made antiseptic preparations is only in the components that are used for their production.

Ready factory impregnation is more effective due to the high content organic components. It is toxic to the human and animal body, so it should be used in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.

Do-it-yourself compositions are less practical and effective, while saving money. Home biosecurity is available in preparation, environmentally friendly and safe for humans. To determine which antiseptic will be the best, it is worth considering all the conditions for its use.

Proper treatment of wood with an antiseptic

The technique for treating wood surfaces is quite simple, but, nevertheless, it is important to remember the safety measures when working with chemicals of this type.

Requires a special protective clothing, mask, rubber gloves and impregnation for wood.

1. The surface is thoroughly cleaned of old coatings, debris and dust. Next, the wood is treated with soft detergents and dries up.
2. The antiseptic mixture is applied to the damaged areas with a brush or roller. The next layers are applied 2-3 hours after the first layer has completely dried. Complete drying of the treated surfaces can last from 3 days to 2 weeks.
3. All work on wood processing is best done at a temperature of +5 (for organic, oil and combined formulations) and at +10 (for water-soluble). Humidity is at least 85%.
4. To destroy insects, it is better to use alcohol compounds, which are poured into holes made by pests with a special syringe. Next, the surface is treated with the selected antiseptic.

Re-protection of wood with antiseptics is carried out in case of chips, cracks and discoloration of the surface.

Wood is a unique natural building material. His positive traits appreciated both in ancient times and today. In buildings made of wood, the optimum level of humidity and temperature is constantly maintained, the air is enriched with oxygen, saturated with resins and essential oils.

However, along with many advantages and advantages, the tree has some disadvantages. It is susceptible to fire, moisture, fungus, mold, bacteria, algae, and insects. If earlier people puzzled over the question: how to protect a tree from these dangers, now thanks to special impregnations for wood, you can avoid such troubles.

What it is?

Impregnation for wood - These are special solutions designed to protect against the aggressive effects of the atmosphere, fire and biological damage. They are made in oil water based and based on volatile organic compounds.

According to their purpose, they can be divided into several groups.

1. flame retardants;
2. antiseptics;
3. against atmospheric influences;
4. combined formulations.

flame retardants

flame retardants designed to protect wood from fire and combustion processes. They contain special substances that, when the temperature rises, melt and create on the surface thin film. Thanks to this film, the supply of oxygen to the wood is hindered, the flammability threshold increases and the intensity of combustion decreases. Examples: DIAPHOS-R50, Old elm, Fire retardant "PP", etc.

Antiseptics

The composition of the wood impregnation against decay and other biological damage ( antiseptics ), includes biocides or, in other words, poisons that destroy microorganisms and insects, as well as prevent their occurrence. Prevent the occurrence of putrefactive processes Aquatex, Biodecor, Neomid 430, Quintol, Biosept, Cram, Woodmaster Biosept, Biotonex, Tekotex, Biokron, VAK-48D, Actitoks, Novotex and etc.

The classics of antiseptics are brands Tikkurila, Dulux, Pinotex And Senezh. Tikkurila manufactures Tikkurila Vinha antiseptic, Pinotex's arsenal includes an antiseptic Pinotex Classic, Pinotex Aqva Plus and others. Senezh brand is very popular in the Russian market. The company produces the following antiseptics: Senezh ultra, Senezh ecobio, Senezh bio, Senezh impra and etc.

Impregnations against weathering

Impregnation for wood against moisture allows you to protect wooden structure from deformations and cracks. They are dangerous because they worsen appearance structures and reduce the quality characteristics of wood as building material. The most effective, reliable, durable and most expensive way to protect wood from water is deep impregnation. special formulations. It is carried out in special conditions - in baths or autoclaves.

This mixture is a solution that protects the material from damaging effects. external environment. Examples: Tikkurila Valtti Color Extra glazing antiseptic, Tikkurila Valtti Aquacolor glazing antiseptic etc. Due to the application of a mixture with a water-repellent effect, its strength, resistance to moisture, and also extends its service life.

Part impregnation against weathering may include metal oxides. They protect the tree from ultraviolet radiation that makes houses dull. Colors can be very different: burgundy, green, blue and many other colors, and can also be transparent and translucent.

Combined formulations

Combined formulations - these are means that protect the tree from the aggressive effects of several factors at once. For example, flame retardants-antiseptics protect the material from biological damage and at the same time increase the fire resistance of wood. These include Senezh Ognebio, Senezh Ognebio prof, Neomid 450, Healthy Home Ognebio, Antibiocor-S, Pirilax, MIG-09 and etc.

Means protecting against biodefeats: rotting, mold, fungus, insects, protecting against precipitation, moisture and UV rays include Tikkurila Valtti Color Satin glazing antiseptic, Symphony Nordic Wood Silk glazing antiseptic, Healthy Home aqualazure antiseptic, Tikkurila Euro Eco Wood antiseptic and etc.

How to choose the right composition

When choosing a protective composition, it is necessary to pay attention to some nuances. A water-based mixture needs additional drying, which in turn can lead to cracks and deformation of already finished structural elements.

Linings for girders, girders, beams, partition boards, struts, logs, bookmarks between logs, bars, transverse strips are subject to continuous treatment with water-based antiseptic solutions. as well as racks and bottom straps walls, crossbars, slats, liners, filing boards, flooring boards for basement and interfloor attic floors.

Oil-based impregnations have an unpleasant, persistent odor. They are combustible, tend to change the color of the wood, are very toxic and slow down the subsequent drying process. Wood after such processing is almost impossible to machine and paint. Therefore, impregnate with oily protective compounds we recommend only those products that are located on outdoors and are constantly in contact with water.

The properties of wood are an important component

Depending on the species and structure of the tree, four classes of wood resistance to decay are distinguished:

• unstable– Linden sapwood, aspen, birch kernel, alder;
• Low resistance– core of elm, sapwood of beech, birch, maple, oak;
• medium resistant– fir, spruce, larch and cedar sapwood;
• Persistent- ash, pine, larch and oak core.

Different types of wood absorb protective solutions in different ways. There are three groups of breeds:

1. Difficult to impregnate- spruce, core of oak, birch, ash, beech;
2. Moderately impregnated– aspen, alder, sapwood of maple, linden, oak, pine core;
3. Easily impregnated– sapwood of pine, beech and birch.

How to do it yourself?

In case of severe financial constraints, you can make a mixture with your own hands. It will cost much less than buying a finished product. For many years now craftsmen make a protective substance from bitumen.

With bitumen in the composition

They do it as follows: bitumen is poured into an unnecessary bucket, put on fire and brought to a boil. After that, the bucket with bitumen is removed from the fire and diesel fuel is gradually poured in. Diesel fuel is needed so much that the mixture remains liquid even when chilled. Such a home-made antiseptic for wood penetrates into the structure of the tree no worse than purchased ready-made ones - the absorption depth is up to 6 mm. At the same time, the tree breathes and dries.

If a faster drying impregnation is required, bitumen is diluted with gasoline. However, the solution cannot be heated in this case. It is only necessary to achieve the dissolution of bitumen with gasoline. After drying, a wooden surface treated with such an impregnation can be coated with oil enamels and paints after priming. Nitro-varnishes and nitro-paints are strictly prohibited.

For its manufacture, 25 kg of sodium fluoride is required (it costs about 1500 rubles). It is diluted in 400 liters of water and then, with the help of an airless painting machine under a pressure of 200 bar, the entire frame is processed, stripping off the upper gray layer of wood in parallel. Then it is necessary to grind the angle grinder with a petal wheel 40 and finish with oil, wax, varnish, etc.

Prices

If you compare the average prices in Moscow, you can see that the compositions Senezh are the most economical, and mixtures Boritex Azure and Shell Guard- the most expensive.

The cost of various impregnations in rubles per liter or kilogram:

• Senezh ultra 50-60 rubles/l;
• Senezh firebio 50-60 rubles/l.;
• Senezh bio 60-70 rubles/l.;
• MIG-09 72 rubles/kg;
• Healthy Dom Ognebio 90 rubles/l.;
• Zdorovy Dom antiseptic aqualazure 110 rubles/l.;
• DIAPHOS-R50 130 rubles/kg;
• Phenilaks Fire bioprotective composition 135 rubles/l.;
• Pirilax Prime 163 rubles / l .;
• Fire protection of wood Pirilax Biopyren 168 rubles/l.;
• Elkon 180 rubles/l.;
• Neomid 440 IVF 196 rubles/l;
• Antiseptic impregnation KRASULA for wood (canned water 0.95 l) 197 rubles/kg;
• Tikkurila Euro Eco Wood antiseptic 220 rubles/l.;
• Belinka toplasur 226 rubles/l.;
• Belinka toplasur 226 rubles/l.;
• Pinotex Classic - antiseptic 265 rubles / l .;
• Nordic Wood Silk 280 rub./l.;
• Tikkurila Valtti Color 280 rubles/l.;
• Pinotex Ultra. 283 rub./l.;
• Pinotex Ultra 353 rubles / l .;
• Tikkurila Vinha antiseptic 360 rubles/l.;
• Dulux Weathershield Multi-Surface Fungicidal Wash 490 RUB/L;
• Boritex Azure 1,020 rubles/l;
• Shell Guard RTU RUB 1,400/L

The main destructive factors that reduce the strength and visual value of a tree include decay, damage by microorganisms (fungi) and insects. Everything negative impacts are interconnected and proceed most intensively at high humidity. To increase the resistance of wood to the destructive influence of the environment, an integrated approach is used, which consists in reducing the moisture content of wood and impregnating it with chemical reagents.

Application antiseptic formulations prevents the appearance of blossoms and wood-boring bugs, and also accelerates the process of restoring the structure of the product after complex cleaning or repair. The means used are self-made or factory-made. Factory mixes are considered the most effective and usually contain substances of organic origin. They are more toxic to the body and require strict adherence to recommendations for use.

Do-it-yourself formulations are often no less effective, but they are much cheaper. The complexity of preparing antiseptics for wood processing is low. It is important to use hand and face protection (gloves and masks) as you have to deal with big amount substances. The composition of the solution depends on the goals that are set for the protection of wood, and how it is used.

Are bituminous and salt mixtures safe?

Part of the compositions for antiseptic impregnation is used for deep protection of a tree buried in the ground. A more gentle effect is provided by mixtures for processing the external surfaces of a house or gazebo, as well as interior decoration.

Antiseptics for the most effective protection are non-aqueous mixtures based on used motor oil or bitumen. The advantages of such compositions:

• viscous coating of heavy petroleum products effectively protects the product from the penetration of moisture and oxygen;
• the anaerobic environment of a tree protected by bitumen stops the development of bacteria and fungi, destroying already existing colonies of microorganisms;
• wood-boring insects cannot appear in a tree treated with bitumen or oil. For their existence, only weakened (rotten) wood and the absence of resins and hydrocarbons harmful to any organism are necessary.

Treated with heavy oil products (often with the addition of substances of a coke-chemical nature), the tree does not deteriorate in the ground for years. Suffice it to recall telegraph poles standing for decades without a hint of decay.

Disadvantages of the preparation and use of resin (bitumen) and oil mixtures:

• component toxicity;
• easy flammability if improperly prepared;
• high soiling compositions, which are almost impossible to wash off when it gets on clothes;
• bad smell;
• inability to use due to unpleasant odor and toxicity indoors.

Traditional mixtures for wood processing are aqueous solutions of salts - sodium fluoride and copper or iron sulfate. Their low concentrations are used to cover the outer and inner parts of wooden structures and decoration items. More saturated compositions help protect piles or boards buried in the ground.

Benefits of saline water solutions:

• less toxicity than non-aqueous impregnations. The greatest danger is only copper sulfate (copper sulfate), which can cause severe poisoning if swallowed;
• ease and safety of preparation. Heating the mixture over an open fire is no more dangerous than simply making a fire;
• ease of transportation. Bitumen or oil is more difficult to transport to the place of application, while salts are easily transported over any distance.

The disadvantages of water antiseptics include:

• lower degree of wood protection than non-aqueous viscous mixtures;
• ability to be washed off with water after application;
• the need to apply insulating coatings to consolidate the effect.

All protective preparations should be used on the territory of the homestead with caution, especially during the harvest period. Contact of substances with fruits can lead to poisoning, so the preparation and application of an antiseptic should be carefully considered.

Impregnation for wood: main components and preparation process

Bitumen solution for wood processing

The composition of the drug includes not only bitumen, but also a thinner - diesel fuel or gasoline. The bitumen containing diesel fuel will harden for a long time and will have time to impregnate the treated surface more strongly. The use of gasoline speeds up the curing time and is useful in times of work restrictions.

Bitumen thinners are sold at gas stations, and used oil can be purchased at service stations. Bitumen is purchased from construction stores or at construction sites. Officially sold bitumen is more viscous and well packaged, which improves its transportation.

When buying and using gasoline, use only metal containers. Static electricity from polymer containers can cause fire and burns .

In addition to the original components, for work you must have:

• capacity for heating bitumen;
• a device (stops) for fixing the container over a fire or burner;
• metal stirrer.

The process of preparing the bituminous composition is as follows:

1. bitumen is poured into a metal container and placed over the alleged source of open fire;
2. turn on the burner or kindle a fire, gradually increasing the heat;
3. heat the bitumen to complete liquefaction, periodically stirring to dissolve the lumps;
4. put out the fire after bringing the bitumen to a low-viscosity state and set the container with it aside;
5. The solvent is added in small portions, controlling its splashing due to heating. Gasoline will actively evaporate, so you should wait until the mixture cools down a bit.

The proportions of bitumen and diluent depend on the initial state of the bitumen. The main criterion is finding the final mixture in liquid state at room temperature. Content diesel fuel or gasoline is usually about 20-30% of the total mass, but may vary depending on the nature of the viscous component.

If the bitumen is heated quickly, the mixture may foam and overflow over the edge of the container directly onto the fire. This is due to the presence of water in the bitumen. Slow heating stops this process and allows the water to boil away calmly.

The preparation time of the bituminous preparation takes several hours. Depending on the amount of work, you can do it in two hours or spend the whole day. The resulting mixture is a viscous mass that has high adhesion to any wood surface. Leave on long-term storage bitumen is not worth it, spending it immediately after cooling and diluting with a lighter oil product.

The mixture should be prepared exclusively on the street, so as not to breathe in harmful fumes and not start an accidental fire. Apply bituminous antiseptic with brushes with long handles. You can also immerse part of the tree in a container with a solution. After drying, the bituminous layer is very difficult to damage, so the products become suitable for burying in the ground.

Water mixture preparation and wood treatment with copper sulphate

Solutions of salts in water are prepared by dissolving a given amount of salt in heated water. Heating is necessary to increase the speed and completeness of dissolution. There are various proportions for treating wood with sodium fluoride and iron or copper sulphate:

• a weak solution of sodium fluoride is used to impregnate wooden surfaces of household structures. Its content is from 0.5 to 4% (from 50 to 400 g per 10 liters of water), depending on the design purpose. Inside the house, it is enough to use less concentrated mixtures, while on the street (arbors, benches) it is better to use saturated solutions. For visual control of the completeness of the application, 10 g of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) is added to the resulting solution. Intense coloration will not be permanent and will disappear shortly after the surface has been coated. Apply the solution with a spray gun or a wide brush;
• for the treatment of pillars and structures buried in the ground, sulfate mixtures are used with a content of the target component of 10-20% (1-2 kg per 10 liters of water). Such formulations require particularly thorough drying and long impregnation times to improve the application effect. The quality of applying the antiseptic is controlled by the degree of color of the product, which is facilitated by the rich color of the vitriol solution. In the resulting preparation, parts of the wood are soaked, which will be further exposed to negative external influences.

To prepare the water mixture, you will need a source of hot water, a container for cooking and a spatula for mixing. The use of the solution after settling makes it possible to load it into the sprayer, improving the uniformity of the coating and reducing the consumption of reagents. You can apply impregnation immediately after cooling. Solutions can be stored for several days until suitable weather conditions are established.

The preparation of aqueous solutions can be carried out at home or on the street. At home, you need to be especially careful not to spill excess solution on things or in hard-to-reach cracks. The total preparation time for an antiseptic rarely takes more than an hour.

To avoid mistakes when dosing components, study the characteristics of the wood you are going to process. There are complex approaches to processing, including cutting off a layer of wood and varnishing a salt-soaked surface.

Comparison of purchased and homemade antiseptics

The advantages of a do-it-yourself solution:

• lower cost;
• high efficiency in the case of bituminous or oil composition;
• less toxicity;
• the minimum probability of buying counterfeit products.

Advantages of purchased factory-made drugs:

• the greatest efficiency;
• ease of preparation (ready after mixing with water or non-aqueous solvent);
• selectivity of influence.

The choice of a tree processing tool is left to its user. The quality of the obtained wood protection when using self-made impregnation may be inferior to more expensive factory mixtures. For use inside the house, it is advisable to buy a complex tool that will have not only an antiseptic, but also a fire-fighting effect.

Do-it-yourself antiseptics are several times cheaper than ready-made commercial formulations and have good efficiency. The scope of such mixtures is not limited to outdoor work and includes a number of compositions for use inside the home. The degree of protection can be adjusted by the thickness of the applied impregnation layer and the concentration of its aqueous solution, ensuring the suppression of any wood-destroying effects.