Reconstruction of the cottage into a residential building. Photos and instructions

Reconstruction of the cottage into a residential building- this is not elementary insulation, but actually the reconstruction of the building. Solutions should not damage the existing building and increase its comfort and energy efficiency.

Dachas are designed for operation in the warm season. However, summer cottages, concentrated around cities, are gradually turning into individual development areas, despite the lack of the social infrastructure necessary for a full-fledged life. But the engineering component is present there (to a greater or lesser extent), and turning a summer house into a residential building allows not only to increase the comfort of a summer holiday, but also to acquire a full-fledged suburban housing for a family.

You can achieve results in different ways. A radical approach, which is often preferred by new owners after the acquisition of the site, involves the demolition of the old house and the construction of a new one. However, if the dacha was built with high quality, in many cases it is more rational to choose reconstruction. The advantages of this approach are more modest than with new construction, costs and the ability to carry out work while living in the house. Each dacha is individual, and the reconstruction programs are different, but there are activities that will have to be done.

Features of cottages and scenarios

The peak of distribution of plots occurred in the late 80s and early 90s of the XX century. This fact determines the age of country houses. Usually these are one-story, less often two-story buildings up to 40 m2 in size, consisting of a couple of rooms and a veranda (their area was limited until the mid-80s of the last century, then more spacious houses appeared). They built dachas from brick (often of excellent quality), wood, frame and frame-panel structures. Professionals were rarely involved in the work, the requirements for building technologies were not always observed, for example, the foundation was rarely laid to the standard depth. Dachas do not meet the requirements for residential buildings in terms of the degree of insulation or are not insulated at all.

Many of them do not have engineering equipment. True, in recent decades, dachas have been modernized with an autonomous water supply, gas supply and sewerage arrangement with the installation of septic tanks instead of cesspools.

Depending on the quality and condition of the dachas, the actions to adapt them to permanent residence differ. In all cases, it is necessary to insulate the house and provide it with heating, water supply, sewerage. However, it may be necessary to increase the area, overhaul, redevelopment.

If the dacha has an area of 40-50 m2 and is intended for one or two people, then the existing volume can be dispensed with. But for a comfortable stay of a family with children, it is desirable to have more space. It can be increased by 50-70% by constructing an attic, twice by adding a second floor, and more by completing the premises at the level of the first floor. If necessary, you can complete the house at any time, and the amenities created will then come in handy during the seasonal operation of the dwelling, and when it is rented or sold.

Construction survey

When drawing up plans for modernization, one should take into account the type of structures and the condition of the country house. It must be examined from the ridge to the foundation and all data recorded. It is better to involve a specialist who will evaluate the depreciation of the building as a percentage. If it reaches 40-60%, a major overhaul with replacement of structures will be required before insulation. With greater wear and tear, the dacha is considered dilapidated and it is not advisable to make a residential building out of it.

The survey will show the possibility of constructing a second floor or attic, the volume and nature of the repair work, and convenient insulation technology. To a large extent it depends on the material of the walls.

Brick houses can last 100 years or more and lend themselves well to renovation. The danger for them is the uneven subsidence of the foundation and the wetting of the walls. If there are no cracks in the walls, windows and doors are not jammed, then the foundation is stable. When the moisture of the walls is noticed, it is necessary to find out the cause of the phenomenon and the possibility of its elimination. Brick walls 250 mm thick are typical for country houses. They are able to withstand the superstructure of the floor, but it is important to evaluate the bearing capacity of the foundation. If there is no confidence in its reliability, then you should limit yourself to the attic or use a light frame structure for the walls of the second floor.

Frame houses built in Soviet times and standing even for more than 30 years can be reconstructed if the frame is well preserved - a single system of wall studs and floor beams. You can find out the condition of the structures by removing the wall cladding and opening the floors (an opening will still be needed when insulating the walls and floor of the house, and if mineral wool is laid in the walls, it will probably need to be replaced). In a one-story frame house, the second floor should not be completed, but the construction of an attic is possible.

A wooden dacha made of logs or timber, with proper care, can last more than 50 years. The tree should not be rotten, affected by rot, fungus. With a small amount of damage, the crowns of the walls and floor beams can be replaced. The foundations of wooden dachas are usually columnar, shallowly recessed and amenable to reinforcement. It is possible to complete the second floor using frame technology.

House designs vary in durability. Rafters, roofing, wooden floor beams, wooden floors, windows, as a rule, wear out after 30-50 years. All elements are inspected, the finishing layers are opened (this will still have to be done when warming).

In case of damage, it is not difficult to replace structures and finishes, while new materials and design solutions can be used. For example, it is better to replace chipboard sheathing with plasterboard sheets, if the rafters are severely damaged and it is necessary to change them, it is rational to make an attic or a full-fledged floor. It may be necessary to strengthen the attic beams so that they can withstand the high load during the operation of the dwelling.

Work plan

Turning a dacha into a home always includes work on repairing and strengthening structures, insulation with the creation of a closed insulation loop on all enclosing surfaces, the installation of engineering communications with the installation of equipment, and finishing. The completion of the premises, given that their structures (including the foundation) must be autonomous, can be performed before, at the same time or after (for example, if you need to quickly move into the house) the completion of work in the main building. However, a new volume, the appearance of which will affect the shape of the roof of the entire building or in which it is planned to place a bathroom, stairs, should be built first.

You should not simultaneously take on the entire range of work, especially if it is not possible to complete them quickly. It is better to single out the stages, each of which should be started after the completion of the previous one in the following sequence:

foundation and floor of the first floor (repair and insulation);

attic, attic, roofing (repair, insulation, etc.);

engineering support (first of all, the input of engineering networks into the house, heating, ventilation);

walls (windows, insulation, decoration).

Internal work (installation of equipment and appliances, redevelopment, renovation of finishes) can be carried out in parallel with the main construction processes. At this time, you can live in the house despite temporary discomfort.

The first three stages by type of work do not fundamentally differ for brick, frame or wooden houses, but depending on the material of the walls, different heaters are used.

Less troublesome is the reconstruction of brick buildings. It is not difficult to insulate walls, you can work slowly, already living in the house. The most time-consuming in the reconstruction of frame buildings. To obtain a high-quality result, the walls of a house that has served for many years will actually have to be created anew.

Foundation and floor

At the beginning of any construction work, ensuring the strength of the foundation is a paramount task, and reconstruction is no exception.

Foundation. Repairs may include filling cracks, eliminating moisture (this may require drainage around the building, injections of water-repellent compounds, etc.) Above the ground, waterproofing and insulation of the basement, installation or repair of the blind area are performed. If brick wall cladding is planned, a separate foundation is laid for it.

Floors. The technology of floor insulation depends on its design. Bulk material (expanded clay, sawdust, etc.), slab (expanded polystyrene, mineral wool), rolled insulation (penofol, fiberglass) can be used as a heater. The layer thickness depends on the material. For example, extruded polystyrene foam (the best material for floor insulation) will need 20-30 mm, expanded clay - at least 100 mm. With an undesirable raising of the floor level, the most effective insulation is used.

If the floors are made on the ground, the top coat is removed and the insulation is laid directly on the cement screed. It is desirable to protect hygroscopic materials from below and from above with a waterproofing film. The insulated floor can be cemented or covered with oriented strand board (OSB), then the top coat can be mounted. If the floor in the house was finished with vinyl or ceramic tiles, then you can lay the insulation directly on this coating.

Rebuilding a summer house into a residential building: a roof

In country houses (both one-story and two-story), an unexploited attic space is most often located under the roof. During reconstruction, it can be left cold by insulating the attic floor, or turned into a warm attic (which is easier to do if the height allows). Mineral heaters are used (expanded polystyrene is not used according to fireproof requirements), laying them in a layer of 150-180 mm.

Attic. It will be necessary to repair the roof rafters and insulate the attic floor. In the rafters, rotten sections are cut off, the reduced sections are supplemented with overlays, the cracks are pulled together with metal clamps, and if necessary, the rafter legs are replaced. It is not necessary to change the roof, but if this is done, it is necessary to lay waterproofing under the roofing material so that accidental leaks do not damage the insulation in the attic. It is laid between floor beams

In floors made on wooden beams, the structure should be exposed, the wood treated with an antiseptic, and the damage repaired. It is convenient to lay the insulation between the beams (having previously made a base for it from boards or slabs resting on cranial bars). The waterproofing is laid so that it protects only the insulation from below, and the wooden structure can be ventilated from the underground. The insulation is covered with waterproofing, a rough and finishing floor is mounted on top or on top of the floor. A vapor barrier film should lie under the insulation; waterproofing over the layer with a reliable roof is not needed.

Attic. After the restoration of the rafters, it will be necessary to modernize the roofing with the installation of a waterproofing film under it to reliably protect the future roofing "pie". Sometimes, in order to increase the space under the roof, it is necessary to dismantle and re-execute the truss system. If the height is sufficient to accommodate a dwelling, then it will be necessary to build attic (frame) walls that will protect the exploited warm volume under the roof. The surface of the attic floor, which remains outside the residential part, is insulated (as in a cold attic), then the insulation is brought up between the wall pillars, and then laid between the rafters (or in the attic ceiling, if it is made flat). The thermal insulation is hermetically protected from the internal space with a vapor barrier film.

Engineering Communication

In the territories of dacha development, there are usually no centralized engineering networks. Only electricity is available (and in some places it is often cut off), but the allocated power of the lines is usually small (2.5-5 kW per consumer, while in ordinary villages they allocate at least 6 kW, and in cottage towns - 15- 25 kW). Exceeding the permissible power can create an emergency situation for the entire village. Therefore, autonomy and economical equipment are an essential requirement for home engineering.

Heating. In conditions of limited energy supply, it is advantageous to use a solid fuel boiler for heating a house (and not to engage in gas supply, even if possible). Modern models have high efficiency, do not require frequent loading, operate on all types of solid fuels (wood, coal, straw, sunflower husks, shavings, as well as pellets and briquettes made from wood products, which are convenient, but much more expensive than firewood). Due to the cheapness and availability of fuel, such boilers are more economical than gas and even more so electric ones.

A double-circuit boiler can be used for hot water supply, an alternative for heating water is an electric boiler (with operation at night rates), supplemented by a solar collector.

Water supply. Often, there is already a sandy well or well in the summer cottage, and it remains to introduce water into the house (the pipe must be laid at a depth of at least 1 m), include a pumping station in the system, dilute water to appliances. The productivity of a sand well is approximately 0.5-1 m3/h, which corresponds to one or two open taps. For a small house with a boiler with a capacity of 40-60 liters, this is quite enough.

Sewerage. To clean the drains, you will have to install an autonomous sewer. More economical and reliable systems using a septic tank, which do not require an electrical connection. The septic tank is buried at a distance of 5-6 m from the house, the sewer pipe leading to it should exit the building at a depth of 0.5-0.7 m and be laid to the septic tank with a slight slope. It is not required to lay it to the freezing depth.

It is better to place a pumping station, boiler equipment, a boiler, etc. in a separate technical room and introduce external networks there. In order not to pull pipelines around the house, you can place the bathroom and kitchen nearby.

Rebuilding a summer house into a residential building: walls

When insulating walls, it is important to cover them with a continuous, continuous layer of insulation. In the lower part of the walls of the house, it should be started below the floor level (by about 300 mm, also covering the basement), in the upper part it should be brought above the level of the attic floor. Material is laid from the bottom up.

Brick house. Insulation is always mounted outside on a wall cleaned of old plaster and protected from external influences by finishing. Two technologies are used: the “wet” method and a ventilated facade, mineral wool or expanded polystyrene serve as heaters. The layer thickness must be at least 100 mm.

With the “wet” method, the insulation is glued to the wall and additionally fixed with dowels, the finish is plaster laid on it along the grid. The insulation must be rigid to support the weight of the plaster.

When creating a ventilated facade, before laying the insulation on the cleaned wall, vertical guides are attached, which will serve as a support for the facade slabs. Insulation is laid between them. It is possible to use not only rigid, but also soft roll materials. On top of the insulation, if it is mineral wool, a windproof film is applied (to prevent blowing out of the material) and the structure is covered with sheathing from plate products (siding, lining, boards, OSB). A ventilation gap of 30-50 mm thick is left between the sheathing and the wind protection, which is necessary for the weathering of moisture that can penetrate into the wall from the outside or from the inside.

A wooden house (made of logs or timber) is also insulated using the ventilated facade technology. However, only materials with high vapor permeability, for example, based on mineral or wood fibers, can be used as wall insulation. It is impossible to cover a tree with expanded polystyrene or foamed polyethylene. A superdiffuse membrane with high vapor permeability (1400 g/m2 per day or more) should be used as a windscreen. Exterior decoration can be made from a blockhouse to return the appearance of a wooden structure to the building.

Frame house. Replacing a heater that has served for more than 20 years and has lost its heat-shielding qualities is a necessary procedure for the reconstruction of a frame house. Various options are possible. With a cross section of the frame racks of 50 x 150 mm, it is convenient to place the insulation between them. From the inside, it is protected with vapor barrier, from the outside - with vapor-permeable wind insulation, on both sides they mount the sheathing - plasterboard sheets (from the inside), OSB, waterproof plywood, lining or siding. A frame wall restored in this way will last for decades.

With insufficient wall thickness (50-100 mm), typical for summer panel houses, additional insulation can be mounted outside using the ventilated facade technology. Place the vapor barrier film on the outside of the existing wall. But if there is no certainty that the structures of the house will withstand the weight of the insulation and cladding, then it can be built along the perimeter with walls made of heavy wall material (brick or aerated concrete). For a one-story building, the thickness of the walls can be 120-150 mm, for a two-story building - 200-250 mm. The walls are erected on a separate foundation (shallow, since they are not load-bearing). Insulation is mounted outside according to the technology adopted for brick houses.

Life in a big city is becoming more and more expensive and uncomfortable. Many people who own even the most modest real estate in rural areas are moving to suburban areas. They do not aspire to become hermits, just some professions allow you to work at a distance, and for those who rent apartments, this option at current rental rates is just a salvation from ruin.

For permanent residence in a country house, which was previously used as a summer cottage, a number of reconstruction and improvement works need to be done. There can be as many decisions as you like due to different initial data, however, let's try to consider the simplest option, when there is no need to change the layout and touch the load-bearing walls, that is, approval of changes in the project documentation is not required.

Regulatory reference

Without the permission of the State Architectural and Construction Inspectorate, you can:

install the boiler;
install a fire alarm;
connect to the sewer
connect to the gas network;
make a canopy;
equip a light gazebo;
equip an outdoor shower, a garage, a greenhouse (everything that does not require a foundation).

Action script

Most of the dachas are not equipped with running water, they do not have a bathroom, the gas stove runs on bottled gas, the walls and roof are not insulated. In the warm season, summer residents managed with a summer shower and amenities in the yard, but you need to prepare thoroughly for the winter.

In a house where people live all year round, there should be: uninterrupted heating, cold and hot water, insulated facade and roof, equipped bathroom, reliable windows and doors.

The correct sequence of work looks like this:

Any reconstruction, restructuring or completion begins with strengthening the foundation and arranging the blind area.
Then they insulate, and sometimes re-roof.
After that, gas is supplied or equipment is installed in the house to use a different type of fuel.
The next step is plumbing. If it is not possible to connect to a centralized village system, you need to dig your own well.
The old windows need to be replaced. New airtight window systems can significantly reduce building heat loss.
The reconstruction process is crowned by the insulation of the facades of the building.

In most cases, any owner is also faced with the need for internal repairs and new interior decoration of the house, however, such decisions depend on design preferences and are not accompanied by as many mistakes as construction.

Fundamental Approach

Experienced builders say that the most important thing in a house is the foundation and the roof.

Cracks in the base indicate a heavy load, but sometimes they can be caused by frost heaving of the soil under the foundation, followed by thawing and shrinkage.

The reasons that caused the cracks should be sorted out by a specialist. The method of their elimination depends on the origin. If the destruction is caused by the behavior of the soil, then a blind area can be dispensed with, which will prevent the soil from freezing below the foundation.

It is made along the perimeter of the entire building with a width of about 60-80 cm with a slight slope (from 3 to 10 °). The correct blind area protects the foundation of the house from rain and flood waters, and also prevents its deformation.

Concrete, asphalt, paving slabs, sometimes cobblestone, turf and gravel are used for the device of the blind area (although the latter do not protect so well from water under the foundation).

The standard sequence of work is as follows: remove the soil, fill in and tamp the sand, then lay a layer of gravel, which, after tamping, is poured with concrete.

After the installation of the blind area, it is necessary to repair the cracks in the foundation. For this, a special mesh is used, which strengthens the base, and a plaster mixture.

If the cracks in the foundation are not caused by freezing of the soil, but by large structural loads, then it should be more seriously strengthened: in this case, earthmoving is indispensable. First you need to dig the base around the perimeter by 35-50 cm.

Then drill holes in it with a puncher in two rows to match the diameter of the iron bars (the distance between the holes in a row is 35-45 cm, between the rows is 25 cm). Having cut a rod with a grinder, you need to drive these pieces into holes throughout the foundation.

Then weld reinforcement of random length along the perimeter of the base in two rows to the bars and fill the trench with slag dump mixed with cement 5: 1, fill it with water, tamp. Then you need to put the shields and fill them to the level of the old foundation with a solution of cement or concrete.

Roofing under the microscope

Before the reconstruction of the roof, it must be inspected from the inside and outside.

In truss systems, rafter junctions are checked, in which deformations may occur due to wood shrinkage and loosening of fasteners, as well as the ends of the rafter legs (Mauerlats), where favorable conditions are formed for the material to rot.

Damaged wood is cut off, and in case of a significant reduction in cross-section, rafter legs, racks, struts and other parts of the rafters are reinforced or replaced with new ones. Reinforcement of wooden beams can be carried out using overhead beams or subbeams, which are attached to the reinforced beam with vertical bolts.

Strengthening the rafters with minor damage by rot is carried out by prosthetics or extensions. Longitudinal cracks in the rafters are tightened with metal clamps on bolts.

All wooden elements of load-bearing structures made of new wood are carefully treated with an antiseptic.

As a rule, slate serves as a roofing material in old houses. When choosing a new coating, it should be remembered that for natural tiles it is necessary to strengthen the rafter system, and for bitumen - to equip a continuous crate.

Therefore, lightweight roofing materials - such as metal tiles - are optimally suited for renovation. Roofing (with a capillary groove) corrugated board is less commonly used. Both materials are laid on a rare crate.

Before replacing the roof, you need to dismantle the slate. First, slate nails are removed, with which the material was attached to the crate, then the sheets are torn off from the supporting structure and dismantled from top to bottom along the slope.

A new coating is laid on the rafter system, starting from the cornice overhang, from right to left, overlapping both in vertical and horizontal joints. Mounting holes should be drilled slightly to the right of the lower point of the depression.

It is necessary to cut sheets of metal tiles with special scissors; in no case should a grinder be used. Damage to the protective layers caused by this tool may further affect the performance of the material.

The sheets are fastened to the crate with special galvanized self-tapping screws with a polymer coating and obligatory rubber gaskets. In addition to sheet metal tiles, additional materials are used for roofing - planks, ridges, snow pads. This helps to give the roof a finished look and provide additional protection.

But any coating can only be laid on a high-quality roofing "pie" consisting of insulation, vapor barrier and waterproofing films, and so on.

Is there life in the attic

Owners who decide to make the most of the usable area in the house, as a rule, turn a non-residential attic into a comfortable attic.

To do this, during roofing work, not only the topcoat is replaced, but also the entire “pie” is improved, completing it with the missing layers, and they often add light to the attic by installing inclined roof windows in the roof.

Such works are quite expensive, but they justify themselves.

In other cases, the attic can be left uninhabited, but you will certainly have to insulate its ceiling.

The floor of the attic was the ceiling of the dwelling. Living with a cold ceiling is impossible. It is this non-insulated structure that can provide up to 30% of the heat loss of the building. To insulate the floor, you need a vapor barrier film and insulation. In general, for the correct installation of a cold ventilated attic, it is necessary:

Install a vapor barrier from below under the thermal insulation layer. Otherwise, problems with wetting the insulation and the formation of condensate are inevitable. The vapor barrier must be sealed.
Lay a layer of thermal insulation. The less heat penetrates from the room to the attic, the better.
Provide supply and exhaust ventilation. The attic "loves" drafts.

How to make a house from improvised materials on your own? Young couple from Portland (Oregon, America) were able to prove by their own example that this is possible. They remodeled the old barn and assembled their home literally bit by bit. What did they end up with? We decided to take a look at the results of their labors!

Young enthusiasts

Newlyweds Michael and Jenny have long dreamed of their own house, but there was a catastrophic lack of funds to buy it. The only thing that was bought for a small amount of money was an old dilapidated barn and a small piece of land. The young people still had some money left. It was decided to spend them on restoring the house and decorating the interior.

All that is at hand

The barn went to the couple not empty, but filled with old boxes and boards. They were used to restore and strengthen the facade of the house, as well as partial interior decoration. Interestingly, Michael and Jenny were lucky with wood, they got teak and cedar boards. This wood was also useful for creating furniture that the owners of the house made with their own hands, which made it possible to significantly save money. The other part of the interior items was purchased at flea markets and family sales.

Despite the fact that the area of the house is only 35 square meters, zoning was well organized in it. The kitchen was separated by a bar counter. The living room was not cluttered with furniture, there is only a sofa that moved with the owners from the old interior, as well as a homemade table and stool. The second floor was completely taken under the bedroom. It turned out to be relatively spacious and well organized.

As a rule, household plots do not please with their large size, therefore, in order to save as much free space as possible, compact ones are erected on it. Houses of this size are not always able to provide comfortable and convenient living. When creating a project for the internal layout of 6x6 country houses, you need to carefully consider even the most insignificant nuances in order to ensure comfort and coziness for all residents.

Where to start planning

Planning a country house of small size is an activity in which you need to show patience, accuracy of calculations and balanced decisions. The most important thing is to clearly determine for yourself how much money you are willing to spend on the future design of the house, and whether you have the strength and knowledge to properly plan the interior space.

It is very important to be able to see the situation in perspective. Indeed, in a few years the size of the family may change, children or grandchildren will appear, and in order not to subject the house to global alterations in the future, it is better to foresee possible planning options.

The layout of a 6x6 country house, as a rule, involves taking into account the following criteria:

the maximum possible area of the future home;
the number of people living in the house;
having small children.

It is also worth deciding in advance whether the country house will become a temporary haven for summer holidays, or life in it will flow all year round.

Choice of layout

When planning rooms in a private house, it is very important to clearly calculate each square meter so that all the space in the house is used and endowed with functional features.

The algorithm of actions for planning rooms in a private house can be represented as follows:

We determine the number of floors of the future building.
We select high-quality building materials that can help realize the planned project.
We draw the layout of rooms inside the house.
We choose the most convenient design of the porch.
We determine the configuration of the roof and the type of roofing material for future construction.

Determining the layout of a one-story building is much easier. Traditionally, the interior space of such a dacha contains a central room combined with a kitchen, several bedrooms and a combined bathroom and toilet. If the area of the cottage allows, then the bathroom is made separate, and perhaps there is an opportunity for arranging a bath or sauna.

For a cottage that has an attic, there are much more options for internal planning. As a rule, the attic room is equipped as a full-fledged second floor and is used to locate guest bedrooms, a gym, a library, an office, game rooms and much more.

The interior layout of a small two-story cottage can be supplemented with spacious terraces. You can also plan additional rooms for a bathroom or wardrobe.

As practice shows, with proper planning, even a small building measuring 6 * 6 m can accommodate at least three rooms: a spacious living room, bedroom and kitchen, as well as a bathroom and toilet.

Living room - the central room in the house

Traditionally, a living room for a summer residence is not just a place to relax. It can serve as an additional bedroom for guests, a dining room, a playroom for children. Furniture for such a room is better to choose functional and compact, so that nothing clutters up the already small space of the room.

A convenient option would be transformer sofas, folding chairs and tables, built-in furniture. Each of these elements is designed to solve the problem of a small space, but at the same time, an attractive appearance makes the room cozy and stylish. If the area of \u200b\u200bthe house and the design features of the building allow, a fireplace can become the central element for the living room.

We plan the location of the kitchen

In a country house, the entrance to the kitchen from the street will be very convenient. Thus, you can shorten the path that you have to overcome when setting the table on the street in the summer.

When calculating the required area for the kitchen, it is very important to take into account the parameters of the household appliances used. A stove, a refrigerator, a sink, a desktop - all this should be located freely enough over the entire area so that the cooking process is convenient.

It is also worth considering the presence of sufficient natural and artificial lighting.

We plan the location of the bedroom

Bedrooms in a country house are best planned small. This approach will significantly save on heating in the winter. You don't need much for a good rest. It is enough to equip a full-fledged sleeping place, and arrange a small wardrobe.

If the layout of the cottage provides for the presence of an attic, then it is on its area that it is most convenient to have cozy bedrooms. Despite the fact that the ceiling in such a bedroom will have an inclined shape, the attic area allows you to place all the necessary furniture items.

We place a toilet and a bathroom

For comfortable placement of a bathtub, a toilet bowl and a washbasin, a room of 4m2 is enough. The walls of the bathroom are covered with tiles. It is hygienic, beautiful and easy to clean. The ceiling can be made stretch. As a cheaper option, they consider a ceiling sheathed with plastic clapboard.

To be able to sit comfortably in such a small bathroom, the door should open outward. In order to save space, instead of a standard bath, you can install a compact shower.

Using such simple secrets of the correct layout of a bathroom in a private house, even in a small area, you can equip a comfortable and convenient space. There may be room for a washing machine.

In the case when the area of the bathroom is about 3 m2, most likely, you will have to abandon the shower of the washing machine, leaving only a washing tap and a toilet.

We plan the location of the stairs

For a compact country house, the stairs to the second floor are best placed from the outside. Thus, you can save the interior space of the house.

If the area of the cottage allows, then the flight of stairs is located in the central room, compactly placing places for rest around it.

The space under the stairs should also not be overlooked. Built-in wardrobes for a variety of clothes and household items will perfectly fit under it. Also, as an option, you can consider the location of the working corner under the flight of stairs.

Design features of a country house

The style in which the interior design is planned in a country house largely determines the taste of the owners. We advise you to abandon the habit of dragging to the dacha all unnecessary and obsolete pieces of furniture and interior. So you will never be able to achieve a harmonious and cozy design. The best option would be minimalism in the interior. Simple functional furniture made of natural wood, a lot of light, as well as bright ones were made in the form of textiles, paintings, carpets. It is they who create the mood and give comfort to the rooms.

Vintage things look harmonious in a retro interior. Choosing this style in the design of the cottage, focus on furniture and interior items, leaving the walls and ceiling white, and cover the floor with a simple wooden board.

A good decoration for the living room and bedrooms of the dacha will be fresh flowers, figurines dear to the heart, paintings, hand embroidery or knitted napkins. As a rule, such things become superfluous in stylish designer city apartments. In the country, by combining such decorative elements together, you can create a unique, cozy and very comfortable interior for relaxation.

Country house with stove

When planning a country house, special attention should be paid to the location of a stove or fireplace in it. Such an element in the layout of a 6x6 country house with a stove will not only decorate the room, but can also be used to heat the room and cook.

The oven is built from hardened red bricks. It is better to entrust the laying of the furnace to the masters - professionals.

If for some reason it is not possible to equip a brick oven, you can use ready-made structures made of metal, they are also suitable for planning a 7x7 country house with a stove.

How to properly position the oven

In small country houses with an area of 6x6 m, it is most practical to place stoves or fireplaces in the center of the living room, in this way several problems can be solved: zoning the room and achieving uniform heating of the entire room.

The classic location of the fireplace in the corner of the room or along one wall also takes place, but in this case, you need to remember that heating will occur only in one half of the room.

By placing the kitchen stove along one wall, you can heat not only the kitchen area, but also the adjacent room.

Conclusion

The small size of a country house is not a reason to turn it into a temporary shelter, depriving it of any comfort or coziness. By competently considering the layout of the interior space of the cottage, you can ensure that even in a small house you can have a good time with friends, relax and enjoy communicating with the surrounding nature.

After the layout of the house is chosen, you can prepare for the construction of the furnace. How to install a stove and a chimney in a country house, we will find out in the next video