It would seem that harsh Siberia and apricots cannot be interconnected in any way. Not at all. On the Far East(in the Primorsky Territory), Eastern Siberia (in Buryatia, the Trans-Baikal Territory, the Daurian direction) you can see an inconspicuous-looking bush, with splayed branches and amazing fruits that look like an ordinary apricot. This is the apricot, only wild and real Siberian (A. sibirica, Lat.).

It grows on the slopes of mountains, rocks both singly and in small groups, sometimes in tandem with the Siberian apple tree. It is very unpretentious to the soil, cold-resistant, undemanding to moisture. Sometimes it can grow even on completely bare rocks, and this is in the conditions of harsh Siberia! The bush is small up to 2-2.5 m in height. Leaves are ovate. Flowers of the beautiful Pink colour(or white, but with pink stamens) appear in April-May before the leaves bloom.

The fruits of wild apricots ripen in August. The fruits are yellow with a characteristic blush up to 3 cm in diameter. The pulp is dry. up to 3 mm. in thickness. The taste of the fruits is bitter-sour, inedible and is practically not used fresh.

Economic use of Siberian apricot

Firstly, it is worth remembering that the seed contains a poisonous substance - amygdalin, and the proportion of pulp in the fruit is very small and tasteless. The kernels can be used as a substitute for bitter almonds. Very high-quality technical oil is obtained from the kernels of the stones (with large industrial preparations of wild apricots). Due to its unpretentiousness, the Siberian apricot becomes a valuable species for breeding work when crossing. Siberian apricot is very decorative and not fastidious at the same time, which is indispensable when decorating green compositions or landscaping difficult areas. If used in small reasonable amounts, then it will show its medicinal properties. AT traditional medicine(in particular, Buryat) bones were used as an analgesic, anti-asthmic, antitussive. The use (strictly dosed) of nucleoli improves appetite, makes breathing easier and even gives a feeling of well-being.

In Russia, in addition to the Siberian apricot, the Manchurian apricot also grows, which is represented only in the southern regions of the Primorsky Territory and the common apricot, which grows in the southern regions of our country mixed with the wild one.

Pictures from encyclopedias describing apricot

Apricot East Siberian ornamental - ripe fruits

Apricot Siberian is an ideal component of landscape design, as it is beautiful in its own way at any time of the year: in spring - flowering, in summer - leaves, in autumn - fruits.

The main characteristics of the Siberian apricot

Siberian apricot (lat. Prúnus sibírica) is a small branching tree or shrub from 2.5 to 3 m high. It is characterized, in comparison with ordinary species, by increased resistance to frost and heat. Thanks to these properties, it grows in the mountains of Siberia, China, Mongolia, as well as in the Primorsky Territory.

Every year in April-May, the tree is abundantly covered with pale pink flowers with honey aroma on which bees flock with pleasure. Flowering lasts from 5 to 10 days. It is also interesting that the leaves are formed only after the end of flowering.

Apricot fruits ripen in the second half of August, have small size, only 2.5 cm long and rounded, slightly flattened handicap. They are yellow-green in color with a burgundy tint on the sides. Despite their beauty, they are not suitable for food, as they contain toxic substances, marching cyanide.

In addition to this variety, in the regions of Siberia (Southern Transbaikalia and Buryatia), there are also East Siberian and Manchurian apricots. But they are quite edible both fresh and processed, unlike the Siberian apricot.

Apricot Siberian: properties and uses

Despite the toxicity of fruits and seeds, the tree has many positive qualities.

Characteristics

This apricot is widely used in landscape design because of its decorative and spectacular appearance. Thanks to these qualities, a miniature tree is an integral part of many flower arrangements.

With his participation create hedges, flower beds and alpine slides, in which a single shrub occupies a key place. Group plantings in parks, squares and on the streets of Siberian cities also look unusual.

Properties

The seeds, leaves, branches and bark of the Siberian apricot contain toxic substances, but they are dangerous to human life only in large doses, and in small doses, rather, on the contrary, they act as medicines.

The seeds contain 0.15-0.18% amygdalin. Because of this substance, the bones are able to have anti-asthma, antiseptic and antitussive effects, as well as improve digestion and stimulate breathing. The seeds are also used for technical purposes - high-quality almond oil is extracted from them, as well as bitter almond water.

The use of the seeds of this apricot in folk medicine is widely known as a remedy for nervous disorders and furunculosis. Many healers claim that a tincture of shrub leaves, in which hydrocyanic acid is present, can cause destructive harm. cancer cells.

Apricots in Siberia: features of cultivation and care

Siberian apricot is an unpretentious tree. But in order for the seedlings to please the eye with an elegant appearance soon after planting, one cannot do without proper care.

Planting and pruning

Apricots can be planted from the seeds of trees that are adapted to local conditions. Sunny, wind-sheltered places with well-aerated soils containing lime are suitable for cultivation.

Planting is carried out in autumn or spring, the seeds are sown in trenches 5-7 cm deep, which contributes to fast shoots. If necessary, seedlings that have reached the age of two are transplanted to permanent place, making landing pits wider and deeper.

In the spring, as soon as the snow melts, the apricot seedlings are pruned. Remove branches that have not overwintered, and also shorten those that are too developed. Fresh "wounds" cover up garden pitch or red lead. This pruning is done annually.

Watering and care

Apricots in Siberia, although drought-resistant, need moisture, especially after planting and during growth. Young trees are watered regularly from May to July, water is poured plentifully and under the root. But starting from the second half of summer, watering is carried out in case of excessive drought, which in middle lane doesn't happen often.

In autumn, apricot seedlings and adult shrubs are whitened with a solution of lime with the addition of blue vitriol. In April, frost-damaged places on the trunks are cleaned to living tissues and treated with garden pitch.

Outcome

By planting an unusual tree called the Siberian Apricot on the site, you will not get enough of delicious fruits, but decorate your garden with a plant that will delight the eye at any time of the year.

Growing apricot seedlings. Site selection and care

I live in the south Western Siberia. Cultivation of apricot personal plot I have been doing it for many years and have gained a lot of experience. It may be that some of the farming practices that I will tell you go against what you have read before, but the apricot yields and their stability are impressive - so at least take into account what I will tell you.

The traditional way to grow apricots

From proper fit apricot seedlings in a permanent place depends on at least half the success. The traditional way: growing an apricot on a small mound so that spring waters do not accumulate near the trunk.

Everything seems to be correct, however, if there is a lot of snow in winter, then the hillock will not save from dampness, which causes the bark to warm up near the root collar. Therefore, I slightly improved this technique: I made a square formwork (50x50x60 cm) with one removable side from the hemp. late autumn I install the structure around the tree, fix the removable wall with wire, put a couple of boards and a sheet of old linoleum with a cutout for the trunk on top. The stem is in the void (you can additionally insulate with dry leaves).

Result: no burns, no frost holes, no warming, the trunk does not suffer from sudden temperature changes. Somewhere in May I clean this box.

Growing apricot in ... a pit

I consider this method of landing to be my invention. I do not pretend to be the ultimate truth, but I consider it the most promising for regions with frosty snowy winters, wet springs and unpredictable summers. The bottom line is that I put a well-developed apricot seedling in ... a hole!

To do this, I dig a square pit 60-70 cm deep and 40x40 cm in size. I make the walls with a slight slope and fix them with pieces of slate so that its edges are slightly above ground level. Around I pour a small earthen rampart (from the lower layer of the earth when digging a hole), protecting from spring waters. I carefully loosen the bottom of the pit, put an apricot seedling, trying to arrange its roots in the most comfortable way. Sometimes I undermine the lower part of the walls and fall asleep with fertile soil mixed with sand (2: 1). After planting, you can sow grass around the apricot - the roots will be warmer (for the winter, I throw a piece of linoleum on top).

Before applying this agronomic technique, I took into account two factors:

1. The root system of the apricot is powerful, it goes in rods to a depth of more than 2 meters.

2. The roots grow best when the soil temperature is from 7 to 20°C (when the temperature drops below 0°C, their growth stops altogether).

So it turns out that the smaller the pits for planting apricot seedlings, the more tree is under the influence weather conditions. And, accordingly, we ourselves have more troubles and worries.

Here, after all, what is important: the roots of apricots (and other fruit crops too) do not have a mandatory dormant period and therefore can grow 7-8 months in a row with favorable conditions. And our task is to create such conditions.

In this way, deep landing(in this case into a pit) provides desired temperature in the root layer, prolonging the activity of active roots, which directly affects the productivity of the tree.

But this way of growing apricots has one more thing. great dignity. Since the crown is underestimated due to the pit, it is practically not exposed to sunburn, which means that there is no need for whitewashing. Yes, and care for the crown is more convenient. In addition, the nutrition of the crown with carbon dioxide is enhanced, which, as a rule, is located below, near the soil in a more condensed state.

Choosing a place and soil for growing apricots

As for the composition of the soil, it must be remembered that apricot grows better on sandy or gravelly soils rich in nutrients, and absolutely can not stand close occurrence groundwater, as well as the presence of heavy, clayey horizons at a shallow depth. In my case, the garden plot is a gentle northeast slope on a common hill. The soil is medium loamy, so there is no need to talk about some kind of microclimate, so before planting I bring in river sand for digging.

I select a sunny, calm place so that carbon dioxide does not blow away, which significantly improves the development of the best cultural qualities in the structure of trees, especially in the first years of growth (assimilation by leaves worsens in a draft carbonic acid required for nutrition).

apricot care

Of the features for caring for accustomed apricots, I will only note their obligatory feeding organic fertilizers in liquid form. However, this procedure - again, for the sake of increasing the yield - I complicated, having previously carried out some additional work.

I took a drill for winter fishing and around each tree he made three or four wells to a depth of about half a meter, filled them with small gravel (or screenings) and then began to pour top dressing into them.

The result is an order of magnitude better than with the traditional method of top dressing, because liquid top dressing is absorbed into such wells, like a sponge, and goes without delay and in full immediately to the roots. In addition, they can be used for several years for simple watering - they do not silt and do not clog (unless, of course, any organic debris near the trees is removed in a timely manner). And thanks to them, oxygen enters the root system better.

Apricot graft

And now I would like to say a few words about vaccinations. Mature wildlings (often used as skeletonizers when grafted on cuttings taken from a young hybrid apricot seedling or from a sample variety) will have a dominant influence in the hereditary transmission of their properties, with a deviation, as a rule, for the worse. And this must be taken into account. If you are already going to do this business, then the cuttings should be grafted either on young wild animals or on seedlings grown from cultivated frost-resistant varieties.

During the fruiting of a young seedling selected according to cultural characteristics, different branches behave differently: in terms of yield, fruit size, color and frost resistance. This phenomenon should be used to your advantage by cutting cuttings or a bud for grafting from those branches that have shown themselves on the positive side. Thus, I believe, it is possible to fix the necessary traits in the next generations in a new variety of a particular fruit crop.

It is clear that when growing apricot, a lot depends on local climatic conditions. But as for my small homeland, here my undertakings have already been tested both by time and experience. I say this with all seriousness and without undue modesty.

... By the way, in the last year or two, I completely abandoned growing apricots on a hillock, as it turned out that such a “bulge” freezes through more easily. And this leads to the fact that the roots cannot start working in a timely manner in the spring, causing a massive fall of the ovary. Why play roulette when you can protect yourself and your garden from such troubles.

Now I plant only in pits, and I gave the knocked together insulation boxes to neighbors who are afraid to follow my example and do everything the old fashioned way. And then they look with envy at my apricots sprinkled with fruits ...

apricot care

FEATURES OF VARIETY CHOICE

The Siberian region is characterized by a variety of climatic conditions. In a significant part of Siberia, the climate is severe, it belongs to sharply continental. However, in the southern part of Siberia, in the Altai Territory, the climate allows the cultivation of heat-loving plants, including apricot. However, the issue of choosing a variety should be approached very carefully.

Breeders have developed varieties that are perfectly adapted to growing in unfavorable, rather difficult soil conditions. climatic conditions but low temperature conditions and shallow snow cover contribute to a fairly deep freezing of the soil. That is why, when choosing a variety, it is necessary to pay attention to the indicators of winter hardiness and frost resistance declared by the originator.

It is also necessary to take into account varietal features. Experienced gardeners It is recommended to give preference to zoned varieties. Myself planting material must be purchased from crop nurseries in the region where the fruit crop is to be grown.

BEST AND PROMISING VARIETIES

For a long time such thermophilic crops, like apricots and peaches, did not take root in the horticultural farms of the Siberian region. Experienced domestic and foreign breeders relatively recently managed to realize the dream of Siberian gardeners, thanks to which apricot varieties that are quite stable and bear fruit well in harsh climatic conditions have appeared.

The best varieties, suitable for planting in the Siberian region, are resistant to very low winter temperatures, spring return frosts, sudden temperature changes, prolonged thaws and excessive stagnant water in personal plots.

"Siberian Baikalova"

"Sayan"

"Khabarovsk"

"Northern lights"

"Mountain Abakan"

"Pretty boy"

Gardeners also deserve the attention of such varieties as "Kigichinsky", "Golden Bone", "Honey", "Snezhinsky", "Uralets", which have proven themselves in home gardening in the Siberian region.

FIT FEATURES

Apricot trees grow very poorly and develop when planted and grown on heavy and insufficiently well-permeable soils. Under garden plantings, it is necessary to allocate the most elevated areas, without the accumulation of cold air masses. Apricot refers to heat and light-loving fruit crops, poorly tolerant of thickened plantings. Features of planting apricot seedlings in a region with unfavorable soil and climatic conditions are as follows:

of all stone fruit garden apricots, it is the most warm and light-loving crop, so planting is carried out in the most elevated and illuminated place, and holes are dug in advance;

it is advisable to lay garden plantings on the southern slopes, characterized by a steeper angle of incidence of sunlight and with natural protection from negative impact northern winds;

planting should be done as early as possible, at the stage when the soil has thawed by only 10-12 cm;

preference should be given to the so-called "Michurinsk" principle of planting, which involves planting in soil not enriched with fertilizers, which can significantly increase frost resistance fruit tree;

plants should be planted on earthen embankments, in the central part of which a special recess should be made, the size of which should correspond to the volume of the root system of the apricot seedling.

A prerequisite is tying the plant to a support that can direct the growth of the apricot tree.

​

GROWING TECHNOLOGY

Caring for plants grown in difficult soil and climatic conditions has some characteristics. Apricot has sufficient drought resistance, but at the stage of laying fruit buds, garden culture must be provided not only with moisture, but also with basic nutrients.

It is very important to grow exclusively grafted plants, as self-rooted seedlings almost die in in full. It should be noted that in the Siberian region, apricot trees are very often affected by hawthorn, and recently such a disease as clasterosporiasis has spread significantly in garden plantations, which implies timely and competent preventive measures.

APRICOT: SIBERIAN EXPERIENCE

Many summer residents fail when growing apricots, because they plant seedlings of this crop from other regions, not taking into account natural features terrain.

Apricot is a southern culture, it has little chance of settling in the gardens of summer residents not only in Siberia, but also in the European part. Many factors interfere with this: a short period of winter dormancy, early awakening of the kidneys, damping of the root collar and bole in areas with high humidity and high snow cover. It is even more difficult for an apricot where the snow falls on the still unfrozen soil. In such conditions, frost holes often occur (photo 1) and sunburn on trunk and skeletal branches.

In Siberia, a garden where it is planned to grow apricots should be planted on the southern slopes of mountains and hills. Here, the angle of incidence of the sun's rays is steeper, and there is protection from the north wind.

In our harsh conditions, seedlings cannot be transplanted, they must be grown on the spot. Apricot is a drought-resistant crop, its root system goes deep into the aquifer in the driest places, but the plant does not tolerate transplantation: the “amputated” central root makes the cultivated tree less frost-resistant. In addition, transplanted seedlings do not have time to mature in a short Siberian summer and they die from it.

I excluded planting apricots in depressions, in the so-called "holes for watering" (photo 2). It is in them that the destruction of the stem bark and root neck occurs due to lack of ventilation, excessive dampness and the formation of freezing puddles in early spring. Some apricots die immediately, some survive to bear fruit, but they are also doomed.

It is necessary to plant seedlings in Siberia as early as possible, when the earth has thawed only a few centimeters. You cannot land in large pits where the soil is enriched with mineral and organic fertilizers. If I can’t do without planting, I start by raking up the thawed layer of soil in the form of a mound, in the center of it I make a hole strictly according to the size of the roots and plant a seedling in it. The more snowy the region, the greater the height of the hill, which should be gentle (this protects the roots from freezing).

Apricot trees are very sensitive to pruning, so I don’t do “ring pruning” (photo 3). My personal experience showed that these "rings" are not tightened with fresh bark, they serve for the penetration of harmful microorganisms. When emergency I shorten the shoots exclusively in early spring.

It is known that apricot trees are the first to wake up, therefore they are more likely to fall under return frosts. In the old days, they used a simple method - on clear, windless spring nights, half-moist brushwood was set on fire. Warm smoke can raise the temperature in the garden by several degrees. Some Siberian summer residents sprinkle water in the garden during frosts and place basins of water under each tree to increase the humidity of the air and protect the apricot from frost.

Apricot East Siberian: photo, description, care

Apricot East Siberian - photo on the left . It's deciduous deciduous tree, obtained by breeding back in 1981. This type of apricot was obtained by crossing (hybridizing) the Manchurian apricot and the common apricot. As the name implies, the East Siberian apricot is recommended for cultivation in Eastern Siberia as a fruit tree that produces tasty large apricots with an easily detachable stone and a sweet kernel.

tree height and external a species of East Siberian apricot. This species is represented by medium-sized trees with dark green foliage. The leaves are wide, oval, pointed on the outside, have carved edges in the form of rounded teeth, as well as the red color of the petiole and central vein. Fresh shiny shoots are dark red. Outwardly, the tree of this type of apricot is very similar to ordinary apricot.

Flowering and fruits of East Siberian apricot. The flowers are large, bloom 3-4 days later than the traditional flowering time, but the fruits are early ripening, as they ripen in mid-July, closer to its first half. Apricot East - Siberian bears fruit from 2 - 3 years of life, bringing every year large fruits weighing from 35 g to 70 g. Yellow - green fruits with a blush have a high taste and nutritional value. The orange flesh is very juicy and nutritious.

Frost resistance of East Siberian apricot. It is frost-resistant enough, but in severe winters it can freeze. Also, the tree is prone to decay due to the instability of the root collar to soil moisture. Wetting can occur during a thaw due to the thawing of high snowdrifts, which form a lot of water.

Landing. It should be remembered that for successful pollination of this tree, other varieties must also grow on the site. Ideally, for good yields and cross pollination, there should be 2-3 more apricot trees in the garden. The vulnerability of the root neck to moisture introduces its own characteristics and tricks when planting in areas with snowy winters or wet soils. If you know in advance that groundwater in your area is close to the surface, you need to worry about drainage in advance, a layer of which is laid out even when landing on the bottom of the pit. Peat, humus or compost can be added to the soil substrate with which you fill the hole.

Apricot is a tree of the Rosaceae family. It has an average height, longitudinal brown bark. It starts blooming in March. The fruits ripen from June to August, depending on the variety. Apricot Siberian is resistant to severe frosts, suitable for cultivation in northern regions.

Apricot Amur suitable for cultivation in Siberia

Growing is not an easy task, so before planting apricots, you need to choose the right variety.

Frost-resistant varieties

Growing apricots in cold conditions is difficult, but breeders have managed to develop several varieties that can withstand frost and produce excellent fruits, despite the harsh winter. The best varieties are Sayansky, Siberian Baikalova, Gorny Abakan, Amur, Khabarovsk, Golden Bone and Superior, which grows in southern Siberia. Characteristics of frost-resistant varieties:

1. Apricot Siberian Sayan gives about 16 kg of fruit from one tree. Plant height 3 m. Sayan apricot begins to bloom in late May and early June. One fruit weighs 25 g.
2. Variety Sibiryak Baikalova reaches 3.5 m. It has a ruddy color, its pulp is fragrant. Blooms in May. One tree gives 20 kg of crop.
3. Mountain Abakan. Its plus is unpretentiousness in care and resistance to frost. Begins to bloom in May. It grows up to 3 m in height. The fruits are orange and dense structure. One fruit weighs 30 g.
4. Description of the Khabarovsk variety: a tall tree, beautiful and lush foliage, cone-shaped fruits. The weight of one fruit is 40 g.
5. Handsome Cupid is the best of all varieties. It blooms very early, and the weight of one fruit is 25 g. The shape is oval, elongated.
6. Superior apricots are very tall, reaching 5 m in height. The plant is resistant to disease and cold. Fruit orange color, and 40% pink color. The pulp is juicy and very aromatic.
7. Apricot Golden stone reaches 3.5 m. Winter fruits are round and yellow. Fruit weight 14 g. The pulp smells great and has an amazing taste.

Apricot Sibiryak Baikalova gives good harvests

Seat selection

In order for cultivation to bring pleasure, and the fruits to grow good, you should carefully choose the site:

1. The plant will not grow well if the soil is rough, does not allow air and water to pass through. It is desirable that the earth be light and have a slightly alkaline reaction.
2. The place where the tree will grow should not have a lot of snow in winter.
3. Apricot Siberian should grow on a hill or on the slopes of a mountain.
4. The tree will not like cold masses.
5. Groundwater should flow no higher than 2.5 m.
6. Apricot East Siberian loves sunny and warm places.

Apricot East Siberian should be planted in well-lit places

Planting an apricot

There are several ways that gardeners use to grow this tree: planting seedlings, seeds or cuttings. When planting apricot seedlings, you need to pay attention to the stage of laying fruit buds.

It is advisable to grow grafted trees, as seedlings may die. It is easier to purchase a seedling, but often gardeners specially grow apricots from the stone.

Apricots grown from seeds do not need much care. They are better suited to the ground and cold weather. Growing conditions:

• it is best to take the seeds of apricots grown in Siberia;
• bones of overripe fruits are suitable;
• the bones are well washed and dried not in the sun;
• before planting, the bones are kept in water: those that have surfaced must be thrown away, because they are defective;
• do not plant apricots in flower pots, because they must get used to natural conditions;
• it is better to start growing cuttings and seedlings in the spring;
• so that the root does not rot, the bones are planted to a depth of 1 cm.

If you are going to plant in the spring, then from autumn the seeds are stored at a temperature of 0 ° C in a cellar or refrigerator. Seeds are vertically placed in wet sand, by April they begin to germinate.

If everything is done correctly, then growing an apricot from a stone is very simple.