Rooted apple seedlings. All about gardening in Ukraine

Fruit trees are usually propagated by grafting cuttings to a rootstock, this is the most common method. Growing own-rooted seedlings - old and undeserved forgotten way reproduction, because a grafted apple tree can acquire the properties of a stock, and when growing own-rooted seedlings, the purity of the variety is preserved.

The essence of the method of growing own-rooted seedlings

The method consists in growing seedlings from cuttings. Branches from the mother tree are tilted to the ground and sprinkled with soil. receiving nutrients from the mother tree, the branch will take its own roots and give rise to a shoot that will get stronger in a year and can be separated from the mother tree. You will get a young apple tree, ready to be transplanted to a new place.

The seedlings bought in the nursery are propagated by grafting a cultivated variety onto a wild apple tree. Therefore, if you want to propagate an apple variety grafted onto a rootstock, then you need to select a branch above the grafting point. This is done in order not to grow a seedling of a wild apple tree. If the apple tree is own-rooted, then you can drop any branch.

How to root a branch of an apple tree?

Rooting an apple tree is very simple. To do this, tilt the branch to the ground and make cuts on the bark for faster formation of the root system. Next, they dig a groove about 10 cm deep and place a branch in it, and then sprinkle it with soil. The place where the buried branch is located must be marked with a peg so as not to accidentally damage the future seedling. Around you need to make a small groove so that the branch is convenient to water. After a year, the buried branch will give growth. When it gets stronger, it will be possible to cut off the seedling from the mother tree with secateurs and transplant it to permanent place.

Is this method rational?

Some gardeners question this method of reproductionbecause it is very long: after all, you have to wait a whole year until the dug branch gives growth. If you propagate an apple tree with self-rooted seedlings, and dig in a few branches every year, then it will take no more time than growing a grafted apple tree.

But growing own-rooted seedlings is not suitable for all varieties of apple trees. So, for example, a vigorous apple tree takes root worse than undersized and medium-sized varieties.

The advantage of growing own-rooted seedlings is that a new tree grows with its own root system, which can be transplanted anywhere on the site. Due to the developed root system, the survival rate of the tree increases several times, and taste qualities maternal variety.

Everyone knows that apple trees are propagated by grafting a cutting of a cultivated variety onto an appropriate rootstock. Basically, dwarf and semi-dwarf trees are used for this purpose, which provide a faster onset of fruiting, make it possible to develop well and actively bear fruit.

In my country house, I use a less common method of reproduction fruit trees- I root the branches of the cultivar, and then I grow the resulting seedlings already as self-rooted apple trees. Many of these seedlings have already grown into full-fledged apple trees and give excellent harvest delicious fruits. Neighbors no longer ask naive questions - will wild animals grow out of these seedlings. Their seedlings donated by me have long begun to bear fruit with beautiful propagated varieties.

The climate in Altai is harsh, so we have to grow it in stalks and stalks-bushes, and it’s not difficult to choose suitable annual shoots for instillation. Here it is only very important not to make a mistake and choose the layering so that it is necessarily located above the grafting point, that is, it belongs to the cultivated part of the apple tree.

I carefully bend the selected shoot, dig it into a small groove to a depth of 10 cm and fix it in this position with a suitable flyer peg made from maple growing next to the site. Over time, it will rot and will not interfere with planting a young seedling in a new place. The digging should be done in such a way that a branch 30-40 cm long remains above the surface of the earth. In order not to accidentally damage the seedling later, I stick a metal bent meter rod next to it.

I do this work, as a rule, in the spring, because if you postpone it until the summer, the seedling will take root a year longer. The diggings made do not require much care, you just need to water at least once a week and clear the weeds. If aphids are applied to the seedling, then it is necessary to get rid of it by any accessible way otherwise this pest can severely damage young dug shoots.

On the next year at the beginning of summer, when it becomes clear that the buried seedlings are already actively growing, I carefully cut them off with a pruner from the mother tree. Some poorly rooted young apple trees may wilt a little. They need to be shaded and watered more often until they return to normal. Usually, seedlings take root by 80-90 percent. This is quite enough for me, since I harvest them with a margin. In autumn, young apple trees are transported to a permanent place of residence.

Thus, I propagated and propagate the varieties of apple trees Gornoaltayskoye, Phoenix, Radiant, Cherished, Autumn Joy, Gardener's Gift, Ural Bulk, etc. The most important thing is that now I always have the right variety.

Those who will use this method need to keep in mind that large-fruited apple trees take root worse. For some, rooting may even take two years. In addition, they are not very frost-resistant root system, therefore, I cover the trunk circle of such apple trees for the winter with a layer pine needles. You can use any other available material for this. Then even in the most frosty snowless winter, the roots will be perfectly preserved.

This method of propagating apple trees attracts me with its simplicity, and the fact that it takes a lot of time to get a seedling does not bother me at all, because I always make digs in advance and with a margin. And those apple trees that turn out to be unnecessary to me, I simply distribute to numerous gardening friends. And no one refuses!

In general, at the present time in my country house all the apple trees are self-rooted, which I do not regret at all!

Apple trees can be cut. Propagation by cuttings gives us own-rooted apple trees. Own-rooted apple tree - a varietal apple tree that is not grafted onto a wild, but has "its own roots".

I emphasize: this is not about vaccination. If we manage to root the cutting, we will get the same variety, but we will lose shape. That is, when I root a cutting cut from a dwarf melba, I get a melba, but already full-grown.

What are good rooted apple trees?
Firstly, due to the lack of transplants, they develop a powerful root system. A good root system is the basis for the success of an apple tree.
Secondly, the root growth of such apple trees is also varietal. Grow at least an apple bush.
Thirdly, in my opinion, it is terribly curious to root a cutting of an apple tree.
How to grow a rooted seedling?
You can ring a varietal shoot on an adult apple tree, wrap it with polyethylene, fill the place with moist soil, and wait for the roots to form. And you can root the cutting.

I, in fact, was not going to do either one or the other, but I still had a Melba stalk from grafting under the bark. I updated the oblique cut, made several longitudinal incisions in the bark from the same end, and, especially without bothering, wrapped the stalk in a damp (wrung out) cloth and placed it in plastic bag not to dry out. A spring stalk, he apparently had a desire to live, and now a callus (callus) has already appeared. The photo shows sagging on the cut - this is the callus. Roots form from it. If everything continues to go well, I will get my own root melba. Melba is one of my favorite apple varieties. Have you tried?

(I think to increase the probability, you can use different kind rooters...)

Another interesting article and the method itself http://argumentiru.com/earth/n324/152445?type=all -

All gardeners know reliable way reproduction by cuttings - stuck a twig early in the spring, and it quickly took root. And by autumn, quite a decent bush grows. And what about the apple tree? Advise how and is it possible to grow a self-rooted apple tree without sophisticated equipment? Or pear?
Thank you, your reader, Mikhail Skvortsov, Stavropol
Indeed, the unpretentious currant is easily and naturally propagated by cuttings. And the apple tree is probably hindered by its "blue blood". It is not possible to quickly and efficiently obtain own-rooted material. Many scientific works even promise a complete fiasco to such a process. However, our regular author and tireless experimenter Nikolai FURSOV has been receiving his own root planting material for several years. fruit crops with 90% efficiency! Today he shares his practical experience with AN readers and strongly advises to start propagating apple and pear trees right now.
Which of us has not tried to put twigs into the water and wait for the leaves, and then the roots? All gardeners who have tried to root cuttings of apple, pear, cherry and many other fruit and ornamental crops know that it is very difficult. Noble apple and pear trees do not want to easily take root. But nothing is impossible for true gardeners. “Let us ask and force” the apple tree to take root, and the result will be stunning.
The secret is simple - you need to stimulate the apple tree to concentrate hormonal growth substances in future cuttings. Their excess turns on new processes in cells. And as a result, with the created by us favorable conditions the formation of the root system will begin.
So, let's stimulate the plant. To do this, firstly, go to the dacha right now, in winter. It is necessary to have time to take the necessary actions no later than two months before the start of active sap flow.
Secondly, select a well-ripened branch on the tree with
1-2 year old wood. Break the branch in half, arrange " closed fracture". The ideal option is a fracture to the core without damaging the cortex (see Fig. 1). But a partial fracture (see Fig. 2) of the cortex is also allowed. A long branch can be broken in several places. The ideal cutting length is 15–20 cm.
Thirdly, wrap the fracture site in a half-bent state with a dressing material: electrical tape, grafting tape, plaster, etc. You can first wrap the branch loosely and then break it. And fix it in this position, apply a fixing splint, tied to a wire or stick (see Fig. 3).
Fourth, leave the prepared cuttings until spring. During this time, the plant will begin to send to the fracture sites the very growth substances we need for tissue fusion. And these substances will accumulate an excess amount.
Fifthly, at the end of March - beginning of April, remove the "gypsum", unwind the strapping material and cut the cuttings at the fracture site.
Sixth, use plastic tall bottles(2 liter) dark color. Cut off the narrow neck, fill with 5-7 cm of melt or rain water, add two tablets activated carbon. Place cuttings in these containers (according to
10-12 pieces) and place on a light windowsill. And wait. At room temperature after three weeks, a callus "bump" will form, and the roots will begin to actively grow.
They appear at the cut site, from under the kidneys buried in the water, on the bark.
When the roots are reached
5-7 cm long, plant cuttings in open ground in nutrient soil. It is better to create a shelter-greenhouse. Shade lightly, water regularly. Plants will grow very quickly, powerful specimens will form by autumn, quite corresponding to 2- and even 3-year-old seedlings. Good luck.
practical argument
I'm experimenting with different breeds plants for five years. According to his method, he cut almost all fruit trees: apple trees, pears, cherries, plums, apricots, lemongrass, actinidia. Many ornamental plants. For example, lilac, which is difficult to propagate vegetatively. I tried linden, maple, weigela, mock oranges, hazel. And everywhere the result of rooting is at the level of 70-90%! Those who have tried cuttings know that such a percentage is very high. And at the same time, I do without any fogging installations and growth stimulants. Try it, I'm sure you'll succeed. Write to us in the editors of "AN" about the results of your experiments with different cultures. Will wait.

In one of the previous articles, we already talked about the method of preserving the variety of your favorite apple tree (or other fruit tree) without grafting - using. The method is certainly good, but there are others.

Tell me, would you like apple and pear trees to multiply as simply as currants? I cut the cuttings, rooted, planted and order! Dreams, dreams… Not so unrealizable dreams, as it turned out. Gardeners tried to grow a pear or apple tree from a cutting, and many succeeded. We should also master this method, right?

The vast majority of fruit trees in our gardens are grafted. In some nursery, a wonderful variety of apple or pear was grafted onto some rootstock, they sold us a ready-made seedling, and we planted it with the hope of a harvest. However, hopes are not always justified.

There are a lot of nurseries selling seedlings, and few people think about the compatibility of rootstock and scion. As a result, we often get sickly apple trees with small fruits that are unstable to winter cold. And pears from generally can die.

An alternative to grafted seedlings are own-rooted pears, apple trees, cherries, plums, etc. They are grown from cuttings of varietal trees, they do not need grafting, which means there are no compatibility problems for them. Own-rooted trees have two more advantages: they better tolerate high occurrence ground water(very important for pears) and they are easy to propagate further, even by cuttings, even by layering, even through root shoots.

We do not in any way claim that grafted seedlings are evil, and seedlings on their own roots are ideal for everyone. It also happens vice versa. Growing seedlings of pear and apple trees from cuttings is not a panacea for all troubles and problems, but just another way vegetative propagation fruit trees.

What varieties of apple and pear trees take root well

Not all varieties of apple and pear trees give roots equally well when propagated by green cuttings. Some take root better and faster, some take longer and worse. The smaller the fruit, the easier the cutting takes root.

The best varieties pears for growing from cuttings: Lada, Muscovite, Elegant Efimova, Autumn Yakovleva, Memory of Zhegalov.

The best varieties of apple trees for growing from cuttings: Altai dove, Altai dessert, Altai ruddy, Aport Alexander, Blood-red Aport, Vityaz, Gornoaltaiskoe, Long, Zhebrovskoe, Zhigulevskoe, Kitaika Saninskaya, Kuznetsovskoe, Mechta, Moscow red, Father's renet, Finding Lebedyanskaya, Pepinka Altai, Pepin saffron, Gift gardeners, Ranetka Ermolaeva, Ranetka purple, Severyanka, Ural bulk, Flashlight.

How to grow a self-rooted apple and pear tree from cuttings

Horizontal planting

One of the options for obtaining a rooted apple tree suggests doing without cuttings at all. But this requires a ready-made two- or three-year-old seedling of the desired variety. Which seedling - grafted or own-rooted - does not matter.

In the spring we plant our seedling, placing it horizontally in the planting hole.

The lateral shoots of the seedling should be pulled out of the pit, set vertically and tied to pegs. At the junction of the lateral shoots with the trunk, notches can be made, an annular incision with the removal of a strip of bark or constriction copper wire to speed up root formation.

The roots and trunk of the seedling are covered with soil as in normal fit apple or pear. Any tree tends to grow up, so side shoots will begin to grow as independent trees, perhaps new vertical shoots will appear from the dormant buds of the seedling trunk. After two years, these shoots will give small roots at the base and on the trunk. And in the third year, each of them will have their own normal roots.

After that, the seedlings can be separated from the mother plant and grown separately for 1-2 years. And if you want, you can experiment - do not separate the young shoots, leave them to grow in the form of a kind of hedge.

Propagation of apple and pear trees by cuttings

If a young seedling we do not have or we need seedlings of the same variety as the existing adult fruit-bearing apple tree, we will have to follow the path of cuttings. We will need the so-called green cuttings - young shoots, the lower part of which has already begun to stiffen, and the upper one remains green. On such shoots, all leaves except the top one should already be open. AT middle lane optimal timing cuttings of cuttings fall, as a rule, in the second half of June, in cold regions with a long spring - at the end of June - beginning of July.

Cuttings are best cut in the morning when they are saturated with moisture. The shoot is cut with a sharp grafting knife closer to the kidneys. The lower cut should be at an angle of 45° towards the kidney without cutting it off. The upper cut is made horizontally above the kidney. From one shoot, you can get two or three cuttings.

Each cutting must have at least three leaves or two internodes. The bottommost sheet should be removed, leaving only the top two. The remaining leaves are shortened by half for less evaporation of moisture. If the internodes are short, the cutting is made with three internodes.

Now green cuttings are kept in a solution of a rooting stimulator for 18 hours. It is advisable to put a plastic bag on a container with cuttings to increase the humidity of the air inside.

During this time, you need to prepare a box for cuttings. The box should be about 30-35 centimeters high. At a height of 20-25 centimeters they fall asleep in it nutrient soil(humus, compost, black soil). Then for the remaining 4-5 centimeters - sand calcined in the oven. Ignition is a must upper layer must be sterile. Before planting, the substrate is shed (for this purpose, again, you can use a root stimulator).

Prepared cuttings are buried in the sand by 1.5 - 2 centimeters. Deeper is not necessary, otherwise the cuttings may rot. The cuttings are planted so that their leaves do not touch each other, with the box or with the film with which it will be covered. This is important, a leaf stuck together with something is more likely to rot and pull the entire stalk along with it. The box is covered with a film and placed in a greenhouse or greenhouse. It is advisable to choose a place for a box that is bright, but sheltered from direct sunlight. Now once a week it is necessary to ventilate the cuttings and constantly monitor the soil moisture. Both the top and bottom layers should be damp (but not soggy). It is better to water the plantings from a spray bottle.

Decayed leaves and cuttings, if any, are removed as soon as possible.

In a month, the cuttings may already have the first roots. Now they can be aired more often, gradually accustoming to “ fresh air". In autumn, a box with cuttings is buried in the ground in the garden flush with the edges. And the cuttings are covered with needles, peat or sawdust.

The following year, young seedlings are planted on a separate bed for growing. And in two years they can already be planted in a permanent place.

There is one more folk way root cuttings of fruit trees: not in a box, but in a champagne bottle. This is done as follows: the green shoot is cut off completely at the very base, the bottle is filled with chilled boiled water, the shoot is placed in a bottle and tightly corked. For this purpose, var or wax is used.

The bottle is installed in a pre-dug hole and covered with earth. Now cut off the top of the shoot, leaving two or three buds above the ground. From above, the seedling is covered with a film or a large plastic bottle. Also ventilate and water if necessary. After two or three years, a seedling from a bottle can be transferred to a permanent place: it should already have good roots of its own.

I grow self-rooted apple trees on my suburban area a long time ago.

Everyone knows that apple trees are propagated by grafting a cutting of a cultivated variety onto an appropriate rootstock. Basically, various dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks are used for this purpose, which provide a faster fruiting period, enable the apple tree to develop well and actively bear fruit.

At my dacha, I use a less common method of propagating fruit trees - this is rooting branches of a cultivated variety, and then growing the resulting seedlings already as own-rooted apple trees. Many of these seedlings have already grown into full-fledged apple trees and give an excellent harvest of delicious fruits. Neighbors no longer ask naive questions, but will wild animals grow out of these seedlings? Their seedlings donated by me have long begun to bear fruit with beautiful apples of a multiplied variety. The climate in our Altai is harsh, so we have to grow apple trees in slate and slate-bush forms, and it’s not difficult to choose suitable annual shoots for instillation. Here it is very important not to make a mistake and choose the layering so that it is necessarily located above the grafting point, that is, it belongs to the cultivated part of the apple tree. If the cuttings are taken from a native-rooted apple tree, then, of course, there is no grafting point there, and any suitable twig can be used. I carefully bend the selected shoot and dig it into a small groove to a depth of 10 cm, fixing it in this position with a suitable flyer peg made from maple growing next to the plot. Over time, it will rot and will not interfere with planting a young seedling in a new place. The digging should be done in such a way that a stem of 30-40 cm remains above the ground. In order not to accidentally damage the seedling next to it, I stick a metal bent meter rod. I do this work, as a rule, in the spring, because if you postpone it until the summer, the seedling will take root a year longer. The diggings made do not require much care, you just need to water at least once a week and clear the weeds. If ants inflict aphids on a seedling, then it is imperative to get rid of it in any way possible, otherwise this pest can severely damage young dug shoots. The next year, at the beginning of summer, when it already becomes clear that the dug seedlings are actively growing, I carefully cut them off with a pruner from the mother tree. Some poorly rooted young apple trees may wilt a little. They need to be shaded and watered more often until they return to normal.

rooted seedling

Usually seedlings take root by 80-90 percent. This is quite enough for me, as I prepare them with a margin. In autumn, young apple trees are transported to a permanent place of residence.

Thus, I propagated and propagate varieties of apple trees Gornoaltayskoe, Phoenix, Radiant, Cherished, Autumn Joy, Gardener's Gift, Ural Bulk, etc. The most important thing is that I now always have a supply of seedlings of the desired variety.

Those who will use this method should keep in mind that large-fruited apple trees take root worse. For some, it may take even two years to root, and they also have a not very frost-resistant root system, so I cover the trunk circle of such apple trees for the winter with a layer of pine needles. You can use any other available material for this. Then even in the most frosty snowless winter, the roots will be perfectly preserved.

This method of propagating apple trees attracts me with its simplicity, and the fact that it takes a lot of time to get a seedling does not bother me at all, because I always make diggings in advance and with a margin. And those apple trees that turn out to be superfluous to me, I simply distribute to numerous gardening friends. And no one refuses! In general, at the present time in my country house all the apple trees are self-rooted, which I do not regret at all!

vkusniogorod.blogspot.ru

Apple tree on its own roots | sotki.ru | Your 6 acres

Research is being carried out to establish the best rootstock-graft combinations. A well-chosen stock for a particular variety contributes to the regulation of its growth, precocity, yield, winter hardiness and other properties.

TWO BODIES IN ONE

Rootstock and scion are biologically different organisms; if their compatibility is insufficient, the trees weaken, winter hardiness decreases, resistance to pests and diseases decreases, yields decrease, and the quality of fruits deteriorates. By purchasing fruit seedling, amateur gardener appearance most often he cannot understand on which rootstock the variety is grafted - the best for him or not. All signs of incompatibility appear mainly in the process of growing in the garden. In order for the buyer not to be disappointed with the quality of seedlings in the future, control must be established in the fruit nursery at all stages of preparation planting material which is not yet the norm.

ONE

Rooted fruit plants, that is, grown from rooted cuttings, offspring, layering, as well as obtained by microcloning (from the meristem tissue of growth cones) retain the properties of the variety more fully than grafted ones. Own-rooted fruit plants are homogeneous plants, so the problem of incompatibility does not even arise here. They are distinguished by the physiological and genetic integrity of the organism, better interaction between the root system and the ground part, better coordination of growth and fruiting processes. Compared to grafted trees, they are more durable: in a harsh winter, if the roots are alive and the ground part is frozen, the plant is restored due to root or foliar shoots.

FROM THE DEEP OF THE CENTURIES

A rich horticultural practice when working with an apple tree convinces that it does not have such variability as when propagated by grafting if it is planted with seedlings obtained from cuttings, offspring, layering. A good example is some of its old Russian varieties, now rarely found (Chulanovka, Mamutovskoye, Vyatlyakovskoye, etc.), propagated for hundreds of years by root shoots, root cuttings and firmly retaining their varietal characteristics. Such apple trees are less demanding for care, more winter hardy, increased ability to restore the crown, to heal wounds. They are easy to propagate. A hundred years ago, they wrote about these varieties that "nature itself intended these apple trees for lazy gardeners."

O old variety Chulanovka, once widespread in the vicinity of Staraya Russa, Professor V.V. Pashkevich in late XIX century, he spoke like this: “This is a favorite peasant variety, which depends on the following characteristic feature: it is bred without the effects of grafting, almost exclusively by root offspring ... Trees are undemanding in relation to soil and care, and at the same time they are exceptionally prolific.”

COMPARATIVE ASSESSMENT

at the Moscow Agricultural Academy. K.A. Timiryazev carried out long-term studies on the study of own-rooted apple trees in comparison with those grafted when growing them in the garden. Observations and records showed that the growth strength of the tested varieties on their own roots is approximately the same as that of those grafted on seedlings of Antonovka vulgaris. The beginning of fruiting in own-rooted and grafted apple trees is simultaneous. Over the entire period of testing, the total yield from own rooted trees was almost the same as that of grafted trees.

Also in the Moscow Agricultural Academy, green apple cuttings were rooted (V. Maslova). Comparing rooting ability different varieties, revealed varieties with good rooting (over 70%): Vityaz, Zhigulevskoye (photo above), Moskovskoye Krasnoe, Renet paternal, Aport Alexander, Nakhodka Lebedyanskaya, Mechta, Pepin saffron, Pepinlitovsky and others.

In a pear, cuttings of the varieties Lada, Moskvichka, Smart Efimova, Autumn Yakovleva, Memory Zhegalova can be rooted in the same way.

OWN-ROOT - HOPE OF SIBERIA

Great importance the use of own-rooted apple trees is suitable for the conditions of Siberian gardening. The main area of the orchards here is occupied by an apple tree, which is represented by varieties such as ranetki, semi-cultivars and large-fruited, grown in a creeping form. Of greatest interest for cultivation are semi-cultivars, the fruits of which are used both fresh and for processing, but they are significantly inferior to ranetki in terms of winter hardiness.

The climate of Siberia is very severe. Short growing season, long, often frosty winters, sharp temperature fluctuations at the beginning of winter and spring make it difficult to cultivate apple trees. Low-temperature stresses in the south of Siberia, when in the air -40-46, and on the snow surface by 3-5 below, are quite long. Over the past 48 years, they have been observed 12 times. This caused almost complete freezing of fruit crops, the ground part of which was mainly above the snow cover. This recurrence occurred with an interval of 4 years.

After such stresses, fruit plants that are left without signs of tissue regeneration are mainly subject to uprooting. Most often, only 5–6 crops are obtained, which is only half of the standard fruiting duration of an apple tree. As Academician S.N. Khabarov: "In this regard, there is a need to create prerequisites for a more sustainable cultivation of the apple tree."

In this regard, it is of interest to grow a self-rooted apple tree, which, after a thorough freezing, is restored due to root shoots, and at the same time, plants are rejuvenated and their durability increases.

According to the famous Siberian scientist A.D. Kizyurin, the age of own-rooted trees is more than 100 years (grafted trees live no more than 14–15 years). Over the years, the ground part of the tree is replaced more than 10 times. Only the basal part of the trunk and roots are preserved. After several shifts, the tree turns into a bush. It never freezes completely, even after severe winters. The fruiting of the apple tree in this case is more stable. The quality of fruits in native-rooted plants is often higher than in grafted forms.

Conducting research on the reproduction of own-rooted apple trees, S.N. Khabarov came to the conclusion that for an apple tree it is possible to successfully use the method of green cuttings with the selection of promising varieties for this. In his experiments, these turned out to be: A gift to gardeners, Zhebrovskoye, Altai ruddy, Gornoaltayskoye, Ranetka purple (photo on the left), Severyanka. Own-rooted apple culture, in comparison with the grafted one, reduces the cycle of growing apple seedlings by one year. S.N. Khabarov believes that by combining the grafted crop with the root crop, it is possible to create real foundations for the sustainable cultivation of plantations.

OWN-ROOT COLUMNS

The modern garden is characterized by dense placement of small trees. There is a tendency to establish intensive gardens with early-growing, small-sized plants with a small feeding area per tree. For laying such gardens, it is required a large number of planting material.

An example of such gardens can be gardens with a columnar crown shape (photo on the right). According to M.V. Kachalkin (a specialist in these forms), one of the ways to use the advantages of the columnar forms of the apple tree is super-intensive orchards with a planting density of 10–20 thousand plants per 1 ha. This allows you to create very early-growing plantations with a high potential for productivity. At the same time, it should be noted that 80–90% of the cost of planting such a garden falls on the cost of planting material.

Own-rooted crops will significantly reduce the cost of seedlings, since the technique of growing own-rooted plants is much simpler than grafted ones. Conducted by M.V. Kachalkin's experiments showed that the columnar forms of the apple tree show a rather high tendency to form adventitious roots, especially when rooting lignified cuttings. The results of the work carried out indicate the possibility of combining in one genotype high ability to rooting and columnar crown type.

At present, there are few varieties of apple trees that have a good rooting ability; in addition, in their other properties, they do not reach the varieties that are in demand in a modern intensive garden. Selection should also have its say here, aimed at strengthening the properties of self-rooted propagation in the created varieties if they have a complex of other economically valuable traits.

L. YURINA, candidate of agricultural sciences

sotki.ru

Apple tree - growing a tree from self-rooted seedlings, video

Fruit trees are usually propagated by grafting cuttings to a rootstock, this is the most common method. Growing own-rooted seedlings is an old and undeservedly forgotten method of reproduction, because a grafted apple tree can acquire the properties of a stock, and when growing own-rooted seedlings, the purity of the variety is preserved.

The essence of the method of growing own-rooted seedlings

The method consists in growing seedlings from cuttings. Branches from the mother tree are tilted to the ground and sprinkled with soil. Receiving nutrients from the mother tree, the branch will put down its own roots and give rise to a shoot that will get stronger in a year and can be separated from the mother tree. You will get a young apple tree, ready to be transplanted to a new place.

How to root a branch of an apple tree?

See also: Growing black radish at their summer cottage

Is this method rational?

Some gardeners question this method of propagating an apple tree, because it is very long: after all, you have to wait a whole year until the rooted branch gives rise. If you propagate an apple tree with self-rooted seedlings, and dig in a few branches every year, then it will take no more time than growing a grafted apple tree.

But growing own-rooted seedlings is not suitable for all varieties of apple trees. So, for example, a vigorous apple tree takes root worse than undersized and medium-sized varieties.

See also: Growing ultra-early melon Dakaro

www.glav-dacha.ru

Own-rooted fruit trees: how to grow an apple tree and a pear from a cutting

In one of the previous articles, we already talked about the method of preserving the variety of your favorite apple tree (or other fruit tree) without grafting - using air layers. The method is certainly good, but there are others.

Grafted and own-rooted apple and pear trees

An alternative to grafted seedlings are own-rooted pears, apple trees, cherries, plums, etc. They are grown from cuttings of varietal trees, they do not need grafting, which means there are no compatibility problems for them. Own-rooted trees have two more advantages: they better tolerate high groundwater (very important for pears) and they are easy to propagate further, even by cuttings, even by layering, even through root shoots.

What varieties of apple and pear trees take root well

The best varieties of pears for growing from cuttings: Lada, Moskvichka, Elegant Efimova, Autumn Yakovleva, Memory Zhegalova.

The best varieties of apple trees for growing from cuttings: Altai dove, Altai dessert, Altai ruddy, Aport Alexander, Aport blood-red, Vityaz, Gornoaltayskoye, Dolgo, Zhebrovskoye, Zhigulevskoye, Kitayka Saninskaya, Kuznetsovskoye, Dream, Moscow red, Father's renet, Nakhodka Lebedyanskaya , Pepinka Altai, Pepin saffron, Gift for gardeners, Ranetka Ermolaeva, Ranetka purple, Severyanka, Ural bulk, Flashlight.

How to grow a self-rooted apple and pear tree from cuttings

Horizontal planting

In the spring we plant our seedling, placing it horizontally in the planting hole.

The lateral shoots of the seedling should be pulled out of the pit, set vertically and tied to pegs. At the junction of the lateral shoots with the trunk, notches can be made, an annular incision with the removal of a strip of bark, or constriction with copper wire to accelerate root formation.

The roots and trunk of the seedling are covered with soil as in the usual planting of an apple or pear tree. Any tree tends to grow upward, so the side shoots will begin to grow as independent trees, perhaps new vertical shoots will appear from the dormant buds of the seedling trunk. After two years, these shoots will give small roots at the base and on the trunk. And in the third year, each of them will have their own normal roots.

Propagation of apple and pear trees by cuttings

If we do not have a young seedling or we need seedlings of the same variety as the existing adult fruit-bearing apple tree, we will have to follow the path of cuttings. We will need the so-called green cuttings - young shoots, the lower part of which has already begun to stiffen, and the upper one remains green. On such shoots, all leaves except the top one should already be open. In the middle lane, the optimal time for cutting cuttings falls, as a rule, in the second half of June, in cold regions with a long spring - at the end of June - beginning of July.

Now green cuttings are kept in a solution of a rooting stimulator for 18 hours. It is advisable to put a plastic bag on a container with cuttings to increase the humidity of the air inside.

During this time, you need to prepare a box for cuttings. The box should be about 30-35 centimeters high. At a height of 20-25 centimeters, nutrient soil (humus, compost, black soil) is poured into it. Then for the remaining 4-5 centimeters - sand calcined in the oven. Calcination is mandatory, the top layer must be sterile. Before planting, the substrate is shed (for this purpose, again, you can use a root stimulator).

Decayed leaves and cuttings, if any, are removed as soon as possible.
In a month, the cuttings may already have the first roots. Now they can be ventilated more often, gradually accustoming them to “fresh air”. In autumn, a box with cuttings is buried in the ground in the garden flush with the edges. And the cuttings are covered with needles, peat or sawdust.

The following year, young seedlings are planted on a separate bed for growing. And in two years they can already be planted in a permanent place.

There is another popular way to root cuttings of fruit trees: not in a box, but in a champagne bottle. This is done as follows: the green shoot is cut off completely at the very base, the bottle is filled with chilled boiled water, the shoot is placed in a bottle and tightly corked. For this purpose, var or wax is used.

From green cuttings, you can grow not only apple and pear trees, but also plums, cherries, cherry plums, and quince. Only cherries and apricots cannot be propagated by green cuttings. Let's try and experiment!

We wish you success and great harvests!