Winter shelters: sheltering shrubs for the winter. How to cover trees and shrubs for the winter

The owners of plots with blackberry plantings, especially beginners, often face questions in the fall: should bushes be covered for the winter, and if so, when should this be done. This article is devoted to the answers to these questions. We will tell you about what materials are best for covering, when to cover and how to do it competently.

Things to take care of in the fall before shelter

In order for the blackberry to endure wintering more easily, before shelter it is necessary:

Continue to water the bushes after harvest until the onset of cold weather, if the weather is dry.
Thin out the shoots, cutting off those that have already yielded a crop, as they have served their time, as well as young branches. 6 to 8 branches are enough for 1 bush. The remaining branches are shortened by about 20 cm.
Weed the weeds, loosen the soil.
Fertilize with potash fertilizers without chlorine - this will facilitate wintering.
Sprinkle the soil with sunflower leaves or husks to protect the roots and retain moisture.
Remove the plant from the supports and gently press it to the ground. The closer to winter, the bushes will be more brittle, so you need to remove them earlier. If the plant is upright, you need to bend down gradually, weighting the top with some kind of load.

Important! To avoid the spread of diseases and the reproduction of pests, cuttings of blackberry bushes should be thrown into the fire.

When is the best time to start hiding?

Blackberry bushes freeze at a temperature of about -17 ° C, a sharp drop in temperature is especially dangerous, which can destroy the plant even at -10 ° C. The best time for shelter comes at a time when the temperature is constantly kept at -5 ° C, that is, usually at the end of October or at the beginning of November (the time period may vary depending on the region).
If you cover the bushes ahead of time, then under the influence of heat they will continue to grow, and in the absence of light and ventilation, the young shoots will rot and rot. Rotting of roots and ground shoots is promoted by condensate that forms under cover from excess heat and lack of air.

Important! high humidity is a companion of fungal diseases.

Thaws are dangerous, as the resulting moisture turns into ice during subsequent frosts, and the blackberry dies.

How to cover blackberries for the winter

For shelter, you can use improvised or purchased materials.

improvised materials

As improvised materials for shelter, suitable:

The soil- This type requires a lot of time, but gives a good effect. Of the minuses, one can name the difficulties with removing this type of shelter in the spring - the thorns can scratch the hands, and the remains of the soil on the tops of the bushes cause increased growth of side shoots.
Snow- in a snowy winter, it will reliably protect the plant, however, in the event of a thaw, it can be a dangerous source excess moisture, which, when cold weather sets in, will freeze and damage the plant.
Vegetable tops- used dried and healthy, which is harvested in the process of harvesting vegetables.
hay and straw- both materials are easy to use, they are easy to remove in the spring. Of the minuses - such a shelter can attract mice for wintering, which will readily feast on blackberry bushes.
Fallen tree leaves- this species is characterized by low labor intensity, but here it is important not to cover with foliage from fruit and berry trees, since pest larvae can be transmitted with it.
corn leaves- this material is characterized by rigidity, therefore it can protect the shrub well, it also does not absorb water well. The leaves are dried after harvesting the corn or used naturally dried, laid in a thick layer. Make sure the leaves are healthy and undamaged.
Sawdust and shavings- it is not recommended to use due to the fact that they reduce the nitrogen content, acidify the soil, strongly absorb water, which then freezes into an ice block, and contribute to the reproduction of pests.
Peat- characterized by a high degree of moisture absorption, so it does not fit well.
branches coniferous trees - thick layer This shelter allows the shrub to breathe, retains heat well, repels rodents and insect pests.
Sunflower, buckwheat, rice husks- the material is good because it does not absorb water well, but it will take a lot to cover it.

The positive side of using improvised materials is the absence of financial costs, the negative side is the impossibility of their use over large areas.

Did you know? In England, there is a legend that blackberries can only be harvested until October 11 - on this day the devil spits on them, and people who eat berries harvested after this date become unclean.

Synthetic materials

You can cover blackberries with synthetic materials purchased at the store:

Film- its thick layer will serve as a good shelter in a snowy winter, but can create problems if a thaw comes. In this case, a lot of moisture and heat form under it, which will lead to decay. Snowless winters pose a danger, in which case a greenhouse effect occurs, which is created by the sun on a frosty day and forms a high temperature under the film. After sunset, a drop in temperature leads to frostbite. Alternatively, you can put paper under the film or sprinkle it with sawdust on top.
Ruberoid, pieces of old linoleum- ease of use of this type of shelter resists fragility during frosts.
Felt or synthetic winterizer- this type is only suitable for northern latitudes, where there are snowy and frosty winters, since during the thaw the material can pick up moisture, and the blackberry will rot.
Burlap - used as an additional covering material in conjunction with improvised means of shelter.
nonwoven fabric(spunbond, agrotex, lutrasil, agrospan) - the advantage of this type of material is good protection from frost and the ability to pass air. It does not create a greenhouse effect, so you can cover it before the start of frost, and remove it long after it ends.
Styrofoam- protects well, but expensive and easily gnawed by mice.

Did you know? Styrofoam98% consists of air.

These types of shelters can protect large areas planted berries, they can be used several times, but they require some financial investment.

How to hide

After graduation preparatory activities the blackberries are pressed as close as possible to the mulched soil, trying not to damage the fragile branches. If it is not possible to bend down the bushes, they are covered with plywood and slate boxes. So that the film or non-woven materials do not freeze to the plant, a layer of mulch from improvised materials is poured under them or a frame is built that will prevent the materials from coming into contact with branches and leaves.

The non-woven material can be black and white, the difference between which is only that White color better reflects the sun's rays and is suitable for snowless winters. It also happens in different densities: a material with a density of 100 g per 1 sq. m can be laid in 1 layer, 50 g per 1 sq. m - in 2 layers. It is often recommended to cover with 2 layers of a thinner version. When choosing the width of the material, you should stop at 1.6 m.

Important! No need to try to wrap the shrub in a covering material, like in a diaper, the warmed soil gives off heat, not the flooring, so try to cover more territory around the plant.

The edges of the flooring must be pressed to the ground with something heavy (stones or sprinkled with earth) so that it does not blow away with the wind. It is recommended to throw a layer of snow on top of the flooring in order to retain more heat.

Do I need to cover frost-resistant varieties of blackberries

Frost resistance characterizes the ability of blackberries to withstand low temperatures. However, the fact that the plant survives does not mean that it will not suffer - in winters with little snow, the buds and shoot tips may freeze, as a result, the harvest will not be rich. Of the frost-resistant varieties, the most famous is Agave, which can withstand more than -20 ° C. But young branches of this variety can freeze in such a frost. Although new shoots will grow in their place in the spring, they will not produce a crop this year. Based on the above, frost-resistant varieties blackberries also need shelter, otherwise a weakened plant will not please you with berries.

So if you want to get good harvest blackberries, bushes for the winter must be covered, but this must be done correctly. For small plantings, improvised materials are suitable, for larger ones - synthetic (white agrofibre). However, do not cover too early, otherwise the plant will rot and die. Follow our recommendations, make the right shelter for blackberries for the winter, and you will definitely feel the difference.

Video: blackberries - how to properly cover

Winter in Russia is harsh everywhere. Even on its warm side, the garden should be covered, protected from possible frosts in winter, ice hail and other natural phenomena. There are simple rules for preparing for wintering that will help you save your shrubs, protecting them from winter weather.

To ornamental shrubs your garden pleased with their healthy appearance, excellent flowering in the coming spring and summer, they should successfully overwinter. And in order to prepare for winter, such an important summer season for every gardener as autumn is needed.

Start by giving conifers and other evergreen shrubs plenty of water. Need to do it late autumn. In winter, the leaves and the conifer itself are fed from their roots. And they need, respectively, moisture. Frozen ground only seems to be well moistened. But it does not provide such moisture, which is necessary for the roots of this type of tree.

Now you need to move on to caring for the plants in the garden and sheltering them for the winter. For this:

The basal neck of the seedling ornamental plant in the garden (if the shrub is young) you need to cover it with bark, also with sawdust and shavings;
the above-ground part of the bushes of shrubs is covered with straw, a bag or burlap, covered with spruce branches;
cover shrubs in the garden at zero air temperature;
materials covering shrubs at the roots must let air through.

Some gardeners mistakenly cover ornamental shrubs for the winter with a film. This creates conditions for the development of fungus on shrubs, and also contributes to the appearance of mold on it.

The first wintering for young planted shrubs in the garden is the most important. As the plant overwinter, so it will continue to develop. At proper preparation for the first winter root system the plant will become much stronger, and already in subsequent seasons, ornamental shrubs in the garden will not need to be prepared for winter so carefully and sheltered from the cold.

Other nuances of care for evergreens before the winter period:

It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that coniferous shrubs can grow in the garden, which are sensitive not so much to frost as to wind and falling on their branches. a large number snow;
cypress bushes of a columnar shape, junipers for the winter it is better to tie with ropes so that their branches do not fall apart;
it is better to tie the crown of evergreen shrubs with twine;
coming to winter period to the dacha, snow must be brushed off the bushes in the garden so that the branches do not rot under its layer and gray mold does not appear on them;
from the fungus, you can treat coniferous trees for the winter with foundationazole;
in February and early spring, you need to follow the weather forecasts - when the continuation of frost is announced, as well as the threat of frost, the shrubs must be covered so that the young growths on them are not damaged;
sheltering decorative coniferous shrubs in the garden for the winter should be done in the period from the end of October to the beginning of November, that is, after a significant cold snap and the approach of winter.

About the features of caring for other ornamental shrubs in the garden

Shrubs that love heat, such as rhododendrons, hibiscus, budley should be covered for the winter with fallen leaves, spruce branches and nonwoven fabric which would allow air to pass through.

Arriving at the dacha in winter, from the bushes that are hedges in the garden, sheared figures, you should definitely shake off the snow after it has fallen abundantly. Tie any columnar shrubs with twine.

Deciduous shrubs should also not be covered for the winter before the end of October. Cover in warm weather - they will rush under layers of covering material. Also, sheltering the root system of plants should be done in dry calm weather. Shrubs with brittle shoots are difficult to cover for the winter, but you need to try to do it. But unpretentious deciduous rhododendrons are quite resistant to frost, especially in the second and subsequent seasons of their wintering. Therefore, they do not have to be overly covered. Forsythia, actinidia, mock orange must be carefully covered for the winter.

Also prepare the soil in the garden for wintering. It should be loose, breathable, without excessive weeds that should be uprooted.

Treat the shrubs in the spring complex fertilizers. Recall that each type of ornamental shrub requires its own fertilizer:

Potentilla - phosphorus-potassium;
budle, action - mineral;
mock orange, almonds - with phosphorus and complex;
boxwood, tamariksu - compost, slurry;
mackerel - compost.

Happy wintering in your garden!

Before, everything was clear: after a warm summer, a rainy autumn came, and after an autumn, a frosty winter. It was clear that heat-loving plants needed to be protected from freezing, and subtropical plants from getting wet.

Now the weather is "smeared" by the seasons. Autumn now encroaches not only on summer time, but also on part of winter, and winter - December, part of January, or even all of January - often cries autumn tears. Since no one has canceled the winter, just at this time such a frost can hit that it will not seem enough. And our garden pets will remain defenseless against the winter cold, because there is no snow - their protector - on the ground, and all the soil is covered with a crust of ice. And the roots have nothing to breathe under the ice. Therefore, our main task now is to help plants meet the winter "with a fur coat and felt boots."

Most perennial flowers and shrubs are well tolerated by all the features of the autumn-winter period, including sudden changes in temperature. However, some breathtakingly beautiful curiosities cannot exist in our climate without the help of gardeners. Such plants have to be carefully covered in case of a little snowy winter. First of all, these are flowers that we do not dig up for the winter, and ornamental shrubs.

Flowers

Be sure to cover - preferably spruce branches - planting incarvillea, Japanese bearded irises and orchid primroses. At least a few branches of spruce branches should be thrown onto the plantings of terry marigold, japanese anemone and Korean chrysanthemum winter-hardy varieties. All stems are pre-cut to 10-12 cm, and chrysanthemums are also spud to a height of 15-20 cm. The leaves of the Japanese anemone are not cut, but the spruce branches are laid directly on them, since they themselves serve as additional thermal protection for the roots.

It would seem that such a flower, which has taken root well with us, like a tulip, should not freeze out in winter. Tulip bulbs can withstand temperatures up to? 11 degrees. However newest varieties lily-colored, fringed, and especially parrot tulips can be seriously damaged if not enough snow falls or suddenly hit very coldy. Therefore, it is better to cover the plantings with spruce branches and mulch with compost or peat (a layer of 5-10 cm). The same applies to both new and well-known beautiful varieties daffodils. As a rule, the more intricate the variety, the less winter-hardy it is.

Let's not risk the life of hyacinths either. They are mulched in the same way as tulips and daffodils, with a layer of peat or compost. You can also cover plantings with fallen leaves.

Many flower growers decorate their gardens with lilies. If this Asian hybrids, then there will be no problems with wintering. Normal winter is also well tolerated tubular lilies and oriental hybrids early varieties(for example, Casablanca and Marco Polo), but if severe frosts are expected, then it is better to cover the plants with a thick layer - 20 cm - of mulch or spruce branches.

Late varieties of oriental lily hybrids require warming in any case, since after flowering they do not have time to restore strength before the start of winter. It is especially dangerous to leave them uncovered this year, as they bloom later than usual due to the cold summer.

Be sure to cover the Candida lily - after all, its bulb hibernates at the very surface of the earth. A couple of spruce branches and fallen leaves - 20 centimeters in total - will be just right.

Many flower growers shelter peonies for the winter. I don't usually do this because the place is dry. However, after autumn pruning stems, I always sprinkle the formed stumps and the soil around them with lime.

Buddley

Some restless flower growers who do not live in peace have decorated their gardens with this luxurious shrub. Gardeners from the Kaluga, Volgograd and other regions of Russia share their experience in magazine articles: if the buddleia branches are bent to the ground for the winter, then this plant will be able to winter under the snow without shelter. But we have snow, if it falls, then at Christmas it almost always melts. As a result, the branches of the buddley are exposed, and the bush dies - it freezes or rots. Therefore, you must either cover the plant completely, as is done with roses, or cut off all the branches, leaving stumps with one or two pairs of buds. It is easier to cover a chopped bush (it is better with spruce branches, and not with leaves, so as not to snot). In the spring, it will give new shoots from dormant buds, and by autumn it will bloom - if, of course, it overwinter. The chances of such a feat in buddley in Leningrad region small. Usually this plant spends so much energy on wintering in our area that it does not survive more than one (maximum two) winters.

Mahonia holly

Now this evergreen shrub grows in many gardens. Some gardeners consider it to be low-hardy, because it often dies in the spring, but the reason for the death of this plant is not winter frosts, but the spring sun. In early spring when the root system of mahonia is not yet working, the leaves and buds that have appeared from under the snow are burned sunlight. To protect the plant, in the fall it is necessary to cover it from the spring radiation. You can, of course, do this at the end of winter, but it is better to take all necessary measures in advance.

I usually stick around the bush (with south side) spruce paws, so that the shadow protects the bush from them. You can also make a "wigwam" out of stakes and old sheets. If any branch crawls out from under this shelter, then in the spring it will certainly turn red and dry. However, those shoots that remain in the shade will survive and become worthy decoration garden.

young shrubs

Coniferous plants also need to be protected from spring sun. In general, all shrubs that start growing in spring should be covered with a cloth for the winter. Such plants include, for example, forsythia ovoid.

You also need to cover young ornamental shrubs - paniculate hydrangea, action, vegella, tamarix, etc. adulthood they will learn to hibernate on their own, but at first they require protection.

For insulation, I have recently been using lutrasil. I build a “wigwam” above the bush from rods stuck into the ground, which I wrap with several layers of this material. All wintering under such shelter ends safely for the plants. I also use a synthetic winterizer that is waterproof and well-kept warm (for “dry” shelter of roses and clematis). This is a good replacement for spruce branches - after all, spruce and pine trees must be protected!

tree peonies

Gardeners are just beginning to develop this plant. Often, young shoots do not have time to become woody and freeze slightly in winter. There are several ways to speed up their maturation. For example, do not water the plants in August. Another way was suggested by our botanist Andrei Knyazev: in October, you need to shorten the leaf blades by 2/3 in order to speed up the ripening of the shoots of the current year, thereby increasing their frost resistance. In early October, you need to mulch the trunk circle with peat or a mixture of peat with humus. And to prevent freezing of the apical buds, the plants are covered with spruce branches or several layers of synthetic material.

Bela Senich

November is coming - it's time to equip the winter hut. Do I need to cover plants for the winter? - Alas, it is necessary.

Neither you nor I were satisfied in your garden with the original inhabitants of our harsh climate. You have to pay for such exotic things as roses, lavender, boxwood, grapes - do not spare time and effort to shelter plants for the winter.

You can, of course, take a chance and leave it as it is, but it’s a pity in the spring not to count your favorite bushes and flowers. AT best case, they will lose a significant part of the crown, at worst - not wake up at all.

What plants need to be covered?

First of all, guests from warm countries or places with mild winters- this is lavender, boxwood, grapes. Not all types of sage and thyme (thyme) endure our winters without loss, you need to experiment with them. Clematis, most roses are also at risk. We also plant heat-loving cypress trees - without winter shelter their crown is damaged.

Container plants - lemons, rosemary, etc. must be brought into the house. These southerners on the street will not be saved even by the densest shelter.

Potted seedlings, even the most winter-hardy (currants, Siberian cedars, spruces, pines) should be dug flush with the ground, flush.

Most thujas do not mind our winter colds, however, young thujas, up to 5 years old, are better to insulate for the winter.

Tall arborvitae, slender junipers and winter-hardy cypress trees are recommended to be tied with stockings or wrapped with lutrasil so that their branches do not crumble and break under heavy wet snow.

I confess, I do not do this for aesthetic reasons: we all year round we live in the village, and the conifers were brought in so that there would be some kind of greenery in the winter. Therefore, the old stockings on junipers do not suit me.

But I have the opportunity to shake the bushes after a snowfall. After the well-known catastrophic icing in Moscow, she even warmed the pine trees, freeing them from ice with the help of the Veterok electric heater

Risk factors:

Snowless ("black") frosts, severe and prolonged winter cold and, oddly enough, the bright March sun. The sun against the background of white snow damages tender young conifers. You can save them by covering them with non-woven material or by installing a screen on the south side.

Preparing plants for winter

Preparation for wintering is important not only for heat-loving plants. Even the original inhabitants of the Middle Stripe can not endure a harsh winter. If you use fertilizers, stop feeding with nitrogen in advance, at the end of summer.

Nitrogen contributes to the growth of green mass, but by autumn, the ripening of shoots is more important. For some perennials, it is recommended to remove flowers and buds by the end of September. Adding a thick layer of humus under the bushes will not only improve the soil, but also warm the roots in winter. After all, humus is both a fur coat and a stove.

What and how to hide

The method of shelter depends on the plant: its height, winter hardiness, susceptibility to mold, etc. I will outline the general principles.

Step 1. Remove from the support, lower to the ground: roses, clematis, grapes.

Step 2. We fill the bushes with oak leaves. Oak itself does not rot, and prevents the spread of rot and fungal infection. We grow our own oaks on the site, and nearby there is a whole oak grove. I visit the grove with a big plastic bag where I stuff the fallen leaves tightly. If it is tight with oaks, you can cover it with dry leaves of other trees, sawdust or even dry peat.

Step 3. We cover the mountain of oak leaves wooden box. This is ideal. Not all plants have enough boxes. Then they go to work carton boxes, plastic buckets, multi-layer lutrasil, pressed with boards - every material at hand, for which there is enough imagination. What is not recommended to use is polyethylene film, under it expanse of all kinds of rot and mushrooms.

I saw how some gardeners use spruce branches for winter shelter. I am against this method for ideological reasons - forest trees should not pay for our love for the exotic.

Step 4. Optional. When the first snow falls, it is advisable to heat it on sheltered beds. Plants will be warmer.

When to winterize

The question is difficult. You have to guess with the weather. If you cover it too late, the plants will freeze; if you cover it too soon, it will rot. Most of all, one must be wary of prolonged snowless, “black” frosts. As a rule, I cover the plants in the first half of November, with the onset of persistent frosts.

When to open plants in spring

It is equally important to open the plants in time. Again, if you open too early - the March sun will burn the bushes weakened by hibernation, miss the moment - you will arrange expanse for infection in the dark, warm, moist depths of the covering material ...

I open it when the snow has mostly gone. And immediately after - revitalizing top dressing with nitrogen (a box of urea in a bucket of water or just lightly sprinkle under decorative bushes).

It is a shame when a plant that seems to have endured the winter well, so tender and green under a layer of oak leaves, quickly dies, being on outdoors. It happens. That is life.

On the other hand, sometimes some clematis does not want to wake up in the spring. Others have already picked buds, but this one did not crawl out of the ground. Do not rush to put an end to it, take the place of another plant. You may also wake up very late. It happens. Such is the unpredictable life.

Good luck and snowy winter to you and your plants!

Pay attention to this:

When we talk about warming seedlings, we mean the proper protection of their roots from frost. Frozen branches in spring can come to life, in last resort they are cut off. And it is necessary to start preparing for this long before the onset of frost - preferably immediately after the leaf fall.

Warming plants may depend on the climate in which it lives. If winters are predominantly mild, temperatures do not fall below 10-15 degrees, many of the young trees and bushes do not need to be seriously wrapped up. In harsh conditions, plants have to be seriously protected. Particularly in need of warming are plants that were planted in the fall - they are still weakly rooted and can die without heat. It's best to dig them in.

Choosing the Right Plants different cultures. You can pay attention to Michurin seedlings - they are well tested and are great for planting right in open ground in middle lane Russia.

Planting young plants in open ground should take place on time so that the ground is warm enough. When the plant is already in the ground, it needs some time special care and care, and for the winter it should be especially carefully covered.

Materials for insulation

For this use special means- agrofibre, mineral wool. Spruce branches, fallen leaves, needles are excellent. The earth has ideal protective properties. It is covered with a large layer of low plants.

Important!

You can not use polyethylene for insulation - it does not allow air to pass through, the plant cannot breathe and dies.

We warm the bushes

The most common and popular in our gardens are currants and raspberries. They are insulated for the winter in about the same way.

Currant is a frost-resistant crop. But with more low temperatures(from -25) may die. To prevent this from happening, you need to do the following:

bend the bush to the ground and press down with a load. In this case, it is necessary to press down the ends of the shoots. Use tiles as a load - there are grooves on its surface into which you can place an escape. Do not use metal weights - due to their high thermal conductivity, they can freeze branches.
You can’t bend all the branches under one weight - it’s better to distribute several pieces. After all, they grow in different directions, and if they are bent to the other side, this can harm the shoots.
Bury the shoots with earth She is the perfect insulator. The thickness of the ground cover should be at least 10 cm, then even without snow the bush will withstand frost down to -30 degrees.
If the planting of currants in the ground was in the fall, it must be wrapped completely also from above.

Another good way is to wrap it with agrofibre. Its only drawback is that it takes a lot of time. It is necessary to wrap each branch separately, and also insert mineral wool between them. This method of warming currants is also suitable for those bushes that were planted in the fall.

We insulate raspberries in the same way.

But it is necessary to start preparing the bushes for winter with their pruning. This should be done in early October.

Then you should also bend the shoots to the ground. When they are still flexible enough, they will not break, and on next year will bear fruit. Each stem must be bent to the ground separately and they cannot be tied.

It is important to make sure that no leaves remain on the raspberries - they only take away her strength.

Wrapped in this way, currants and raspberries can withstand significant frosts. For a greater guarantee, even in such a “fur coat” it is worth bending and sprinkle with a layer of earth. And then they will successfully survive the cold.

How to properly dig seedlings

Pigging "young growth" will help the young plant survive the cold without loss. But in order for everything to go smoothly, you need to do the following:

Remove all leaves so that they do not take away moisture from the seedling. Without them, the plant will be more frost-resistant.
On a small (up to a meter) elevation, dig a hollow in which to place the seedlings.
Plants should not be laid out in a "heap", the distance between them should be no less than the length of the palm.
Near the roots, your young growth should be well watered while you cover the roots with earth. Its layer should be about 15 cm. The earth must be lightly tamped.
With the onset of cold weather, buried seedlings must be completely covered with loose earth. All winter, after snowfalls, it is necessary to remove snow near them within a radius of 2-3 meters.

Helpful Hints

In order not to confuse the young growth, it is worth attaching a plastic tag with the name of its species to each of the trees. It is better to make the inscription with a marker - it will not be washed away by precipitation.
To protect against rodents, it is worth laying out branches of thorny plants such as blackberries near the digging. In the straw, mice will surely arrange minks for themselves. "Thorns" will prevent rodents from reaching the seedlings.

Warming of fruit trees

If the seedling of the fruit tree is already “adult”, then there can be no special problems with its warming - you just need to mulch the ground near the trunk well - properly cover its root zone with sawdust and peat - by 5-10 cm. Straw and just sawdust should not be used worth it because of the rodents.

Well protects from the cold spruce branches. It allows air to pass through and prevents rodents from reaching the trunk. They just have to wrap the tree well.

Be sure to whitewash the trunks - this will protect the trees from sunburn.

In autumn, you should choose seedlings of winter-hardy varieties of apple trees, pears and other fruit trees. It is easier to protect them from frost in the first year. The roots should be well covered with agrofibre and constantly kept under a large layer of snow.

Warming of coniferous seedlings

To young seedlings coniferous plants not frozen, they are covered for the winter with spruce branches, bags of sawdust. For them, there is another danger - under the weight of snow, their branches can break off. It must be shaken off regularly.

Coniferous trees are quite frost-resistant and need to be warmed only in the most severe frosts.

Particular attention can be paid to cedar. Among all coniferous trees, it stands out for its extraordinary decorative effect and the benefits that it can bring to health. Phytoncides that emit essential oils cedar, have a good effect on the state of the human respiratory system, they have high antibacterial properties, and moths cannot stand this smell. And if you grow a cedar on your site, you can say goodbye to many diseases. True, ordinary cedar is a plant of considerable size, it needs a lot of space. For suburban areas a smaller view is displayed - Siberian cedar. Breeders have developed many different varieties of it. It differs from the usual only in size.

You can grow it from seeds (nuts) or purchase Siberian cedar seedlings. Practice shows that those that are buried before winter take root better.

If Siberian cedar seedlings grow in a pot, for the winter they must be completely, flush, buried flush with the ground.

The sun can play a special danger for him. It is reflected from the snow and can severely burn the needles. So on bright sunny winter days, you should cover the cedar with a non-woven fabric.