At what temperature should roses be covered for the winter? We cover roses for the winter Examples of successful winter shelters.
Preparing roses for wintering
Roses are prepared for wintering in several stages:
1. In October, the soil under the roses is dug up (on a spade bayonet) or loosened with a pitchfork, trying not to damage the roots.
2. Shoots of scrubs and climbing roses should be gradually, in several stages, bent to the ground and laid on a layer of spruce branches. In order not to break powerful plants, the bushes are dug up on one side and laid, pinning the shoots to the ground.
3. Then the bushes spud, i.e. they pour a mound of dry earth at least 30 cm high to the base of the bush. At the same time, they do not rake the earth from the flower beds, as this would expose the roots of the plants, but pour it (this can be compost, humus or just loose earth). In addition, the soil between the rows can be covered with a layer of old straw manure, crushed bark or rotted foliage. circumcised hybrid tea roses and floribunda, as a result, are almost completely covered with earth. Shrub roses (after they are bent to the ground) spud the base of the bush, you can sprinkle with earth and shoots.
Hilling helps to keep the plant a large number of buds, and in the spring it will be possible to apply any method of pruning. The air temperature under such an earthen shelter (even in the absence of snow cover) remains much higher for some time than outside.
With hilling roses for the winter, do not rush. It's best to do it in two steps. From October 10-15, earth is lightly poured into the base of the shrubs to protect them from unexpected early frosts. And finally spud already before the onset of constant cold weather.
It is undesirable to use pure peat, sawdust or sand - they are very moisture-intensive and with sharp fluctuations in temperature in winter, an ice crust can form around the roses. From its pressure on the bark of the plant, cracks will appear through which the infection will penetrate.
4. When the ground is slightly frozen (in middle lane, as a rule, at the end of October - in the first decade of November), roses cover completely. It is best to do this in dry weather.
One of the simplest materials used to cover roses is a layer of spruce branches or dry foliage at least 10 cm thick. True, it is relatively reliable. mild winters. If there is no spruce branch, you can use oak leaves and plant residues that do not overripe over the winter.
More reliable way shelters of roses - air-dry. Frames 50-60 cm high are installed above the bushes, any insulating material is laid on top and on the side, for example, hydrothermal insulating paper, glassine, cardboard. Cover plastic wrap. The end sides of the shelter are closed when the temperature drops below -10°C. This method is called air-dry because with it the bushes are protected from penetration excess moisture, and a layer of air protects plants from hypothermia. This method is especially reliable in severe snowy winters. But it can only be used by someone who is constantly on his site or comes in early spring: with air-dry shelter already in March, roses need to be aired periodically.
The main covering material is snow, it is he who most reliably protects roses from frost. Everything else - spruce branches, foliage, lutrasil - serves only to detain him. At 25-30-degree frosts under a layer of snow of 50-70 cm, the temperature does not fall below -4-5°C. Therefore, the shoots are bent to the ground so that they are necessarily covered with snow. With a small snow cover, you will have to throw it in extra. If the snow does not fall for a very long time, then the roses may die, despite all the efforts made. But in those cases when a lot of snow falls from the very beginning of winter and it lies without melting until spring, modern garden roses can winter in the middle lane without any additional shelter.
The rules for sheltering roses for the winter are repeated year after year, and yet, gardeners continue to make mistakes. In particular, it is too early to cover roses for the winter. Therefore, we decided to raise this topic again.
TERMS OF ROSE SHELTER
Many wonder why the literature on horticulture does not give at least an approximate date for the shelter of roses. It just doesn't exist! The weather is now so changeable that it is pointless to give even approximate dates.
Behind last years several times the autumn was very protracted: frosts did not come for a long time. In these cases, roses were covered as early as December! Therefore, every year you need to be guided by the weather.
Roses are covered after stable frosts of -5-7C are established. Do not be afraid of the first frosts, they will not damage the roses. Moreover, for small sub-zero temperatures roses are hardening.
Don't think that roses will go to sleep as soon as you cover them. They will also live under cover, but now in darkness. Only with the onset of persistent cold life processes slow down and the roses go to sleep. Instead of getting a good night's sleep, the roses are simply exhausted!
Experienced gardeners cover roses in two stages. First, a light shelter (photo 2, 4) and only with the onset of negative temperatures is it finally insulated for the winter (photo 3, 5).
Those who covered the roses in mid-October (and even with foil!), Made a big mistake. Plants are living beings. They need light, just like you and me. Without light, roses weaken, are more easily affected by diseases and, as a result, hibernate worse.
DO YOU HAVE TO PRINT THE ROSES?
Professional rose growers urge that (if possible) do not prune roses in the fall. Open wounds after pruning are the way to go for any fungal infections. If the stems can be bent, it is better to do without pruning.
Some gardeners have adapted to bend even tall rose bushes (up to 1.5 meters). To do this, they dig up the root from the side of the bush where the stems will be inclined. In the spring, fertile soil is poured to the root, and it quickly recovers.
If you do not like this method, and the shoots are too long, then cut them off (to the size of the shelter). Coat all cuts on the stems with garden pitch.
You can also remove red, very young shoots. In winter, they will die anyway, and we don’t need a source of rot under cover. In thick new shoots, you can leave the lower part (2-3 buds). Perhaps they will be saved.
Climbing roses do not cut at all or remove only old and diseased shoots. Such stems do not bend well, and in summer they bloom worse. By removing them, we facilitate the task of shelter and give room for the growth of new shoots.
But it is better to cut the leaves. On them dark spots- signs of fungal diseases. The leaves have now fallen off. They need to be collected from under the bush.
Before shelter, treat the bush with a fungicide (HOM preparations, Bordeaux mixture).
HOW TO COVER ROSES?
Many years of practice and communication with gardeners show that The best way shelters are spruce branches and a double layer of spunbond. There was a case when they forgot to cover one rose and remembered about it when it was already snowing. There was no spruce at hand, they covered it only with spunbond. Rosa did great! It was Flammentanz.
Why the pawpaw? It provides an air gap between the shelter and the ground. Under the weight of snow, the spunbond strongly presses down the rose, and less and less air remains there. When there is little air, the plants begin to warm up. In addition, rose stems can break. Lapnik takes on the snow load.
If there is nowhere to take pine branches or you do not want to do this, any branches from pruning shrubs will do. They are stuck around the rose at an angle and make something like a hut. Spunbond is covered from above and pressed with stones.
So cover any roses. But goofy stems are very flexible. When you untie them from the support and try to bend them down, they strive to rise again. At the same time, they pull out the arcs with which they were pressed.
To make it easier for yourself, temporarily press down the stems with boards (photo 2). Then put the arcs, sticking them well into the ground. After that, the boards can be put on top of the arcs, and when the shoots get used, the boards can simply be removed (extra weight is not needed).
Where to get arcs? You can buy special plastic or metal ones that are sold at garden centers. You can cut arcs from willow or hazel branches.
Great option - polypropylene pipes for 3/4" water. They are good because they do not deteriorate from frost, like plastic arcs for a greenhouse. Such pipes can simply be stuck into loose earth. And if the rose is tilted on the lawn, then first you need to stick thin pegs and put arcs from the tube on them.
WHAT SHOULD NOT COVER ROSES?
1. Film. Think 10 times before covering with foil. On warm days in autumn and April, when the snow melts, condensation accumulates under it. Plants support. Excess moisture is the most common cause death of roses.
Some gardeners say they always use film. But this is possible if the owners are often in the garden and have the opportunity to ventilate the shelter on warm days. Before the onset of stable cold weather, an outlet must be left in the shelter. This is easy to do in the fall. But in April, there is a dense and hard crust around the film. It is difficult to open it. Another thing is spunbond: as soon as the snow melts from it, spunbond begins to breathe.
2. Plastic bucket or basin. In fact, this is the same film - plastic does not let air through. The volume of air that is under the bucket or basin will be very saturated with moisture vapor, which will again lead to warming up.
3. Tops of garden flowers. Sometimes roses are covered with stems of marigolds, zinnias, phlox, gelenium and other flowers. You can't do this! The leaves begin to rot and infect the roses.
4. sawdust. According to the experience of past years, sawdust strongly absorbs moisture from the soil. Because of this, they freeze in the winter, and thaw for a long time in the spring. And again the same problem - warming up the root collar.
IS IT NEEDED TO GRIND THE STALMS OF ROSES?
There are two opinions about this approach. Some gardeners do this every year, others believe that hilling can damage. In my practice, there was a case when, in a protracted spring, roses were propped up, which were piled up with earth from below. Bushes without hilling overwintered perfectly. If hilling is used, then do it just before the shelter. Use dry land (store it in a shed). On the medium bush roses need 1-2 buckets of earth (just pour into the center of the bush).
PROTECTION OF ROSES FROM RODENTS
Under the shelter of roses and grapes, mice like to settle. Digging their moves, rodents damage the roots. In the spring, roses have to be cast.
Try to drive the mice away from the shelter. Put inside thorny branches (rose hips, gooseberries, villus), thorny fruits of burdock or thistle.
And, of course, poisoned rodent baits. On sale there are briquettes that are not afraid of precipitation. Grain baits can be poured into plastic bottle cut off on both sides. Such a bottle should be placed inside the shelter, and the mice will enter it, as if into a tunnel.
SUMMING UP
To make sure you find your roses alive in the spring, don't cover them early, don't use foil, spray the bushes for disease.
If you follow these rules, roses will please with their beauty and abundant flowering.
N. Petrenko, Ch. editor
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During the summer, roses need the most careful care: loosening, watering, fertilizing, adding soil (or hilling), pruning fading inflorescences, as well as protection from pests and diseases.
In case of soil compaction, after heavy rains or abundant watering and in a dry summer loosening is carried out to a depth of 5-8 cm at a distance of 15-20 cm from the bush, and the base of the bush is sprinkled with humus or well-weathered limed peat to a height of 10-12 cm.
In urban flower beds, you can sometimes find underdeveloped rose bushes with single flowers. This happens because ignorant gardeners in the spring, when plants are released from the ground, greatly expose root collar, and later, when watering from a hose with a beating jet, they wash off part of the soil and expose the base of the bush even more.
Root system dries up, and dormant buds at the base of the shoots do not awaken and do not give new strong flowering shoots. As a result, plants develop poorly and bloom poorly. Particularly affected are own-rooted polyanthus and hybrid-polyanthus roses, in which the entire active mass of roots is located in the upper soil layer at a depth of 15-20 cm.
In urban flower beds, where the layer of bulk soil is small (in best case 30-40 cm), and the construction of deep pits is difficult, grafted roses need to create conditions for the development of roots in the upper soil horizon.
This can be achieved by pouring (or hilling) nutrient soil to the base of the bush at least once or twice during the summer.
Rose observations in natural soils showed that with strong hilling throughout the summer in grafted tea-hybrid, polyanthic. hybrid-polyanthus and climbing roses, adventitious roots are formed on the stem part of the scion.
They have a thick lobe and are located at a depth of 10-20 cm. Hilling from year to year leads to the formation of a longline root system. The plant gradually moves to its own roots, grows well and blooms profusely, intensively using the upper layers of the soil.
At the same time, the roots of the stock still continue to function.
Bedding solves several issues of rose care at once, especially in urban conditions: it stimulates the formation of an adnexal root system, protects the root neck from drying out, helps to awaken the lower dormant buds from which flower stalks develop (in remontant and climbing roses, flowering of the next year depends on replacement shoots).
Land for bedding must be taken from the side. It is impossible to replace the seed with hilling, since this reduces the layer of earth between the rows and this leads to the drying up of the root system, moving away from the bush of both the hilled and neighboring plants.
Abundant weekly watering(weekly in hot summer) promotes continuous growth and flowering of roses. It should be watered in the furrows around the bush so that the soil is moistened to a depth of at least 50 cm. After the water has been absorbed, the furrows are leveled and mulched (with humus or peat).
Feeding can be combined with watering organic and mineral fertilizers. It should be noted that during the fermentation of slurry, a lot of growth stimulant auxins that are useful for the plant are lost.
In the first half of summer, during budding, roses are fed with a liquid solution of fresh mullein (1:10), 10-15 g is added to one bucket ammonium nitrate, 25-30 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium salt.
After the first bloom when the buds of the second flowering are laid, the roses should also be fed, increasing the dose of ammonium nitrate to 20-25 g and superphosphate to 50-60 g per 1 bucket of solution.
Third top dressing give no later than the beginning of August, while reducing the dose of ammonium nitrate to 10-15 g and increasing the dose of potassium salt to 20-25 g per bucket of solution.
For the last feeding only superphosphate (50-60 g) and potassium (20-25 g per bucket of clean water) are included, which are necessary at this time in order to promote the ripening of faded shoots and delay the growth of new ones.
Withered flowers must be removed to encourage the development of new buds from the axils of the upper leaves of the flower shoots.
In the second half of August, loosening and watering should be stopped., and leave the set fruits on the plant. It also contributes to the maturation of the wood and better preparation plants for winter.
Winter roses. One of the very important measures for care roses - protection plants from frost. How to prepare and cover roses for the winter.
Preparing roses for shelter
Preparations need to start well in advance. As early as August, cut flowers should be stopped, which will contribute to the ripening of the shoots, and, consequently, a better wintering. Do not remove the formed ovaries. At the same time, it is recommended to limit watering and loosening to a minimum, but weeding is mandatory.
! Hilling the bushes is a must!
Plants that are well developed, properly fed (growing in good humus soil containing potassium and phosphorus), not weakened by diseases and pests, endure winter much easier.
Roses with immature shoots that continue to develop until the very arrival of frost are in particular danger in winter and often freeze out. Therefore, everything that interferes with the maturation of wood and encourages the plant to continue growing in late autumn should be avoided.
This means that you should not fertilize in the shade or directly under the crowns of trees, fertilize at a later date, oversaturate the soil with nitrogen, leave roses without watering (in the event of a dry summer!), Hill them up at the end of summer and autumn and cut them off at this time (in September and October) flowers on long stems.
! Dry and very hot summers are dangerous for roses. Even in dry soil sheltered roses die from frost. Roses especially need shelter for the winter if they were planted in the fall and were not well established in the ground..
The first light frosts do not harm the roses, on the contrary, they contribute to the salting of the shoots. Before the onset of significant frosts, spud the bushes to a height of 10-25 cm with dry earth mixed with sand in a ratio of 1: 1. This protects the base of the bush, where the dormant buds are located, from freezing. The earth for hilling cannot be raked between the bushes, otherwise the roots of the roses will be close to the surface.
! It is impossible to spud with peat and sawdust, as they are highly saturated with moisture and freeze through in winter.
Proper pruning of roses
Roses are pruned in autumn to create better conditions overwintering, just before shelter.
In October, all leaves should be cut, weak, thin or diseased shoots should be cut to the base, and all healthy strong shoots should be cut to a height of 40-60 cm (no more).
It is also necessary to remove the wen. As a rule, they have a reddish tint. Do not be sorry, cut them at the base, as they not only do not overwinter themselves, but can also cause the death of the entire plant. Apical buds sprout on mature shoots of roses until frost and young shoots grow. Therefore, in autumn:
- hybrid tea roses cut in half;
- polyanthus, floribunda, ground cover, miniature, park - by one third;
- Leaves to stipules should also be removed. Cropped bushes are tied with twine.
- In climbing roses, only unripened tops and wen are cut off. If there are more than 10 stems, then cut out all the weakest and oldest shoots (older three years). Before the onset of persistent frosts, while the shoots remain elastic, the stems of roses are removed from the support, tied with synthetic twine and laid on the soil covered with spruce branches, pressed from above with shields, boards, boxes. Mature plants with powerful thick stems are recommended to be dug up for laying so that when the stems are bent, their bark does not burst. Standard roses are also bent down for shelter, fixing the trunk with stakes, staples or horns.
Shelter of spray roses
After the onset of not great frosts, when the soil begins to freeze, the roses should be covered. It is best when the temperature drops to (-6 ... -8 ° C) and upper layer the soil will freeze a few centimeters. Previously, roses and the ground under them are treated with 3-5 percent iron vitriol or .
Several ways to shelter roses in winter
Methods are air-dry and insulation using organic "insulation material".
More often, to cover roses, soddy soil, compost, humus are used as a “warming material”, all these substrates can be mixed with sawdust or peat.
The warming material listed above can be safely brought in advance on a trolley to each bush and left in piles until the first days of November.
! Wood sawdust and peat by themselves cannot be used. These materials absorb and retain moisture well, which will lead to freezing in winter, and also reduce air exchange under cover.
It is very difficult to keep insulation materials dry after shelter, because thaws and rains are possible in November. Therefore, it is advisable to cover the “insulation” with plastic wrap on top. Under shelter, plants die not only from frost, but also from dampening, soaking and drying. Therefore, one must be very careful and watch the roses during the winter.
! All insulation materials must be dry (especially sawdust and peat). Otherwise, they freeze and form an air-tight coating. As a result, roses can die from lack of oxygen.
The first way to protect roses
On the damp areas condensation accumulates under the air cover, which leads to the decay of roses. In this case, the bushes are covered with spruce branches and poured on top. thick layer"insulating material".
The second way to protect roses
As soon as frosts begin (-3 ... -5 ° С), the “warming material” should be immediately thrown with a shovel to the roses, as if spudding the bush to a height of 35-40 cm and compacted with hands, covered with spruce branches on top, or wrapped in several layers with old covering material.
! The use of spruce branches to cover roses is especially recommended: it has bactericidal properties and repels mice.
The third way to hide roses
Spruce branches are used, which need to cover the bushes to a height of 20-30 cm, and put a film on top and pour a small layer of peat or earth on it.
The fourth way to protect roses
Reliable air-dry way to shelter roses. Along the ridges or ridges, wooden stops or boxes 30-40 cm high are installed, shields (“house”) or boards are placed on top of them closely.
Before heavy autumn snowfalls, the boards are covered with a layer of roofing felt or roofing material so that the soil remains dry. From the ends of the ridge, they are first left open, and with the onset of stable frosts, they are covered with boards or roofing paper.
The fifth way to shelter roses
Other air dry shelter, when wooden or metal frames are installed above the previously hilled bushes, on which the covering material is pulled, and then covered with plastic wrap on top.
Plants are covered in advance, in October, starting to hill up the soil to a height of 10-15 cm. After that, they are additionally hilled already in mid-November to a height of 30-40 cm.
In winter, such shelters are additionally covered with snow. This method gives the best results of wintering roses during a harsh winter. It provides protection not only from low temperatures, but also from high humidity, since the greatest losses of roses occur from soaking and rotting of shoots. It is only necessary to remember that before the onset of stable night temperatures (-7 ... -8 ° С), the ends of the shelter must be open. Otherwise, in the warmth of the roses will rot and mold. With a more significant cooling, the vents are closed, but not tightly.
The sixth way to shelter roses
In mild winters, such shelter is unnecessary. Lighter is enough. A simple and reliable way to hide. Without waiting for the onset of a steady cold snap, around the end of October-beginning of November, in clear weather, prepared rose bushes are covered with a double layer of dense covering material (lutrasil) or spruce branches are used, which protects roses from both cold and wind, and from the destructive sun at this time and temperature difference. Weak and young bushes are additionally better to cover with boxes from above.
Shelter of roses in tubs
Recently, many gardeners have been growing roses in tubs, and standard roses are also grown. The big problem is to save these plants in winter.
If it is not possible to keep tub roses during the winter in a cool, bright room, they can be prepared for overwintering in the garden. It is obligatory to bury a tub with a rose, otherwise the soil in it will freeze through and the roses will die. You should dig a hole the size of the tub in which the rose grows; place the tub in a hole flush with the soil surface, carefully cover the shoots of the rose with spruce branches or insulate otherwise, for example, spud, falling asleep on top of the earth.
Shelter of standard roses
Preparing for winter standard roses requires special effort. Standard roses, formed by a tree whose trunk has already lost its flexibility, cannot be bent to the ground.
The shoots of standard roses after pruning are insulated with covering material, this is very convenient. A tight bag is pulled on top, tied with a rope and the neck of the bag is fixed on the stem. Then spud earth as high as possible. From above, you can sketch spruce branches and cover everything with leaves
! Particular care should be taken to insulate the vaccination site.
Shelter of climbing roses
curly climbing roses can be insulated with thick fabric, for example, burlap or covering material, without removing the lashes from the support.
In regions with relatively mild winters, climbing and semi-climbing roses are covered with spruce branches directly on the support, fixing the spruce branches on the stems and support with a cord.
Currently, many varieties of climbing roses are not even insulated for the winter, they are very resistant to frost, but spud up to 20-25 cm root system is a must.
Spring removal of shelters
In the spring, during the onset of stable warm weather (April 15-25), the roses are freed from the warming layer, cut off, covered with dry leaves, paper or covering material. This prevents the plants from drying out too much and sunburn helps to adapt to new conditions. When sprouts appear, the shelter is removed. It is better to carry out this work in cloudy weather.
Spring removal of shelters is a very crucial moment. Well-covered roses in the fall in the spring may die from improperly removed shelter.
- Already in March, grooves for melt water should be made near the roses.
- When the snow melts, remove the film that served as a shelter and carefully loosen the top layer of the insulation material.
- After a while, the dried part of the insulating material should be removed and loosened again.
- With the establishment of warm days in the 2nd half of April, the shelter should be removed completely. This is best done on a cloudy day or in the evening.
- Then it is necessary to clear the site of debris, and again cover the shoots with roofing paper, film, from wind and sunlight.
- By the end April - early May, you can remove the shading and immediately start pruning. First of all, it is necessary to remove all the frozen, blackened ends of the shoots and cut off the shoots that died from frost or wetting to the base. Then proceed to the formation of the bush.
- With strong pruning, almost the entire shoot must be removed, except for 2-3 lower well-developed buds;
- With an average pruning on the shoot, 4-6 lower buds should be left;
- With a weak one, remove only a small part of the shoot and leave 8-10 or more buds.
- Hybrid tea roses of the floribunda group are distinguished by the precocity of shoots, but their spring pruning must be differentiated: 1-2 shoots should be cut long, i.e. leave up to 8 buds, and 1 cut short, by 2-3 buds. Then the first will give abundant flowering, and from the lower bud of a short shoot a new powerful replacement shoot will develop - the basis of next year's flowering.
- Polyanthus roses should be cut short, i.e. into 2-3 well-developed buds. Then, during the summer, several strong shoots develop from the lower buds, which will bloom from mid-summer to late autumn. The shorter last year's shoots are cut off in spring, the more replacement shoots develop, the more magnificent flowering.
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The first thing to do to protect roses is to spud all the bushes until the moment when frosts begin at night and the temperature drops below -3 ° C. If these frosts have already been noted, then hilling roses is prohibited. Otherwise, it will cause the plants to die. In such a situation, it is only allowed to use air-dry shelters to protect spray roses in winter.
Before hilling, it is necessary to remove all leaves from the lower parts of the shoots and spray them with Bordeaux or Burgundy liquid (its 1-2% solution is used).
It is necessary to start hilling in mid-September (in the northwestern part of Russia) with such land in which there are no residues of inorganic origin that have not decomposed. The size of the bushes directly affects the height of earthen mounds. If the roses are undersized, then they are spud up to 10 centimeters in height, if they are tall, then up to 35 centimeters.
In order not to accidentally expose the root system of plants, you can not take the land that is located next to the bushes. You need to bring it from somewhere else. In the spring, after rocking out, this land is used to sprinkle the soil around each bush, and this must be done once a year.
In the event that there is no land of the required quality, there is the option of hilling needles with sawdust, sand or peat. But the results from the use of such materials will be worse. If hilling is carried out early, this will not affect the development of plants and their decorative effect. Their normal vegetative growth and flowering continues.
After the steady cold begins, and the earth freezes up to 6 centimeters deep, the roses are completely covered. Before starting it, the tops of all shoots are cut off with a pruner so that the resulting hemp can be completely covered with insulation material. If the bushes are tall, then they are cut at a height of 25 cm from the level of the soil itself, and for undersized bushes - in accordance with the length that their shoots have.
If pruning is carried out in autumn, then the work of sheltering roses becomes much easier, and this is in contrast to the previously used practice, when the shoots were bent to the ground and pinned. Today, the previously existing opinion that cut roses do not winter well has been completely refuted.
Also, pruning in the fall helps to heal plants if they are affected by fungi, since spores of wintering mushrooms are also removed along with the harvested shoots.
Those leaves that remain after pruning on the shoots must be completely removed and taken out of the rose garden, and then destroyed if they are already affected by diseases. If the shoots of plants are healthy, then they are used in order to propagate plants.
It is necessary to carefully sweep away the snow that has already fallen on the frozen ground, and proceed to the actual shelter of the plants. If the shelter takes place using peat or leaves, then it is necessary to first spread the spruce branches around all the bushes so that the needles “look” outward and prevent all kinds of rodents from penetrating the roses. If the plants are insulated with pine needles, such protection with spruce branches is not required, since the sawdust is very prickly, and mice cannot make moves in them.
It is necessary to pour materials for insulation on previously hilled bushes so that there is an elevation in the center, and melt water flows calmly from such a shelter.
The outer border of the shelter should be behind the bushes at a distance of up to 60 centimeters. This is very important when, in a harsh, little snowy winter, it is necessary to protect the roots of roses from freezing.
After the plants are covered, it is necessary to immediately cover the material for insulation with a film. To prevent it from being blown away, be sure to press all the edges with the help of rails and other heavy objects. When laying the film, you must be careful and make sure that not a single stump sticks out above the insulation material. Otherwise, they will pierce the film when it settles under the load of snow that has fallen on it.
If there are such hemp, then they should be cut off or another layer of material for insulation should be placed. The film can be replaced by another material that is moisture resistant - roofing felt, roofing material or otherwise. It is important that the insulation material is completely dry until spring. It is on this that the successful preservation of roses depends.
The thickness of the protection layer depends on how thermally conductive the protection material is, what the weather is like at the beginning of winter, and where the rose garden is located.
If sawdust is used for insulation, then it is necessary to take into account the level of humidity. If sawdust was obtained in the process of sawing wood that was damp, then they contain a lot of water. Their ability to retain heat is half that of those that are completely dry. If a 30-cm layer of sawdust is poured, and it is -30 ° C outside, then a temperature of 1.5 ° C will remain in the upper level of the soil.
If the sawdust is raw, then in order to maintain exactly the same temperature, a layer twice as large is required. If the winter is initially snowy and warm, then in order to protect the roses, you only need to pour 15 centimeters of dry sawdust. If the weather is frosty and there is little snow, then the thickness of the poured layer should be increased to 30 centimeters. If the winter is windy, then exactly the same layer is needed for protection.
If the roses are covered with sawdust and film, then they should overwinter well. Under them, a stable soil temperature is maintained throughout the winter, and in the spring it rises extremely slowly, when the air and the earth are already actively warmed up by the sun. This helps the roses stay dormant until the night frost has passed.
It is advisable to use dry and fibrous peat for shelter. It must be prepared in advance and dried well. All this is done in the summer. In no case should you use raw or, especially, wet peat. It is very important that the shelter is protected from water. The thickness of the layer depends on the weather and where the rose garden is located.
It is very easy and affordable to use leaves to protect roses in winter. If applied correctly, they will protect the bushes very well from possible cooling. Any leaves are used for covering, but oak leaves are best. Harvesting occurs when it is warm and sunny. Before direct use, you need to store them in heaps that are reliably protected from rain.
In no case should you cover with wet leaves. They will settle under their own weight and compress so that they will not let air through. The layer of leaves should be 30 centimeters if the beginning of winter is snowy, and if there is no snow, but very coldy up to 50 centimeters. A layer of such a large thickness is needed due to the strong subsidence of the leaves and the partial loss of their ability to retain heat.
A very responsible job is to remove all shelters from roses in the spring. If roses are hilled, then they winter well, provided that frost holes are formed above the level at which hilling was carried out. But very often in autumn the wind sways the shoots, and holes in the form of funnels appear in the mounds, which are not always visible. In this case, frost holes may well appear below, and the safety of the bushes will be under serious threat.
When warm days come (April, end of March), it is necessary to remove snow from all shelters. Next, you should remove the film, then, when it completely thaws at the edges, it should not be under the sun for a long time. If you remove it in time, it will last a very long time. It is very important that the water vapors that are formed during the heating of the shelter freely go outside.
After the mounds have thawed, you need to immediately unravel the bushes so that if there are frost holes, all the ice can thaw and all damaged tissues dry out. To do this, the bushes are opened so that air can pass freely, and they are closed with insulation material only when there is a possibility that the temperature may drop to -5 ° C.
If there are no freezer shoots from below, then the bushes should be left a little hilled - the earth will not harm the plants.
At the very end of April, it is necessary to unwind all the roses, and remove all materials for insulation from the rose garden, leaving only a small amount of them. This period can be characterized by slight frosts at night. New shoots feel very good negative temperatures. All it takes is a slight frost to kill them. That is why, if there is a possibility of matinees, you need to protect the bushes with materials specially designed for this. Completely the material for insulation is removed only in mid-May.
Peat and sawdust can be used several times. They should be stored in a place that is protected from rain, and specially dried if they become damp during the winter. But, if the roses were affected by the fungus, then the materials cannot be reused.
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