Garden roses: planting, care, reproduction, disease. Planting and caring for garden roses: a memo to novice gardeners

Rose is universal flower, which is not only suitable for decorating any event, but also pleases us with its color on weekdays. In the latter case, we mean home (garden) roses, which often decorate the territory of private estates. However, the question "How to plant a rose?" continues to excite many gardeners. Is growing roses really such a difficult job? Let's figure it out.

Rules for planting the "Queen of the Garden"

"Queen of the Garden" and that's what they called the rose - that's enough unpretentious plant, which in terms of care is not much different from other colors. Although it still has its own characteristics in growing.

How to choose seedlings for planting

When choosing seedlings for the future decoration of your garden, it is better to pay attention to grafted specimens. They are characterized by a more powerful and developed root system, excellent frost resistance, good survival rate and a large number of flowers on the bushes. Grafted seedlings are less susceptible to disease.

You will have to spend more time caring for such a plant, since grafted roses require the mandatory removal of wild shoots (over time, it can turn a beautiful flower into an ordinary dog rose, since in most cases all cultivars are grafted from it). Own-rooted plants do not need such actions.

Did you know? In England, Iran and the United States, the rose is considered the national flower.

Based on appearance seedlings, then on sale you can find samples with both open and closed root systems (placed in containers or with a clod of peat on the roots). It is best to give preference to a closed root system: when planting a plant, the roots will be less damaged and grow faster.

When choosing rose seedlings, do not forget to pay attention to their foliage. It should not be sluggish or dry. The shoots of the plant should also be strong and not have cracks or spots. The number of shoots on a good seedling cannot be less than 3.

When buying a plant with an open root system, you will have a chance inspect the roots and determine their condition. And in this case, there should be no damage.

If the selected seedling does not match specified requirements, then roses with such features can't become worthy decoration your yard.

Choosing a landing site, what should be the lighting and temperature

Roses love the sun, so when choosing a suitable place for growing in the garden, it is recommended to pay attention to sunny areas. Being in the shade, roses stop blooming, on their leaves appear dark spots and blind shoots are formed. Often the plant is affected by powdery mildew. To avoid this, you need to choose a bright, well-ventilated area that will be protected from a strong north wind.

As for the characteristics of the soil, it should not be clay or sandy loam, and all other options are quite acceptable. It is also worth paying attention to the fact that the chosen landing site is away from ground water that come close to the surface.

Before answering the question "How to plant roses?" you need to find out exactly when you can land. Shrubs are planted 2 times a year: in spring and autumn (before frost). Autumn planting is preferred, since until spring all plants have time to take root well and bloom earlier than roses that were planted in spring.

In the middle latitude, autumn planting is carried out mid-September to mid-October and if you plant seedlings earlier, then there is a high probability of awakening dormant buds, which will immediately die with the onset of cold weather.

Too late planting is also considered unfavorable, since the seedlings may not have time to take root and will also suffer from frost. If you “guessed” with the planting dates, after 10-12 days new young roots will begin to appear at the seedling, which, before the onset of frost, will have time to adapt and calmly survive cold winter.

In the spring (if roses were planted in autumn), such plants begin to form rapidly the root and aerial parts, and flowering occurs along with the old ones, perennial bushes. At the same time, the flowers that were planted in the spring, on average bloom 2 weeks later and require more attention.

Before planting a plant, the soil must be properly prepared by feeding it with mineral and organic fertilizers. From organic options best solution is manure, and the first feeding with complex mineral fertilizer should be thorough, but not more than 15-20 g per bush (a large dose will adversely affect the flowers).

If spring planting is provided, then in the fall it will be necessary to dig a spacious hole up to 1.2 m deep and half a meter in diameter. It is filled with drainage (branches, large gravel, expanded clay are suitable), and a mixture of garden soil and humus is laid on top, simultaneously adding mineral fertilizers. When planting roses in autumn, pits for bushes are prepared in 1-1.5 months.

How to plant a rose

Planting roses begins with choosing seedlings and digging a hole in a suitable location. We have already dealt with the first point, and as for the second, then the hole in the ground should be of such size that the roots of the rose feel free. If a we are talking about fertile soils, then half a meter of depth and the same width will be enough. For clay soil, which must be pre-fertilized (humus or compost is mixed with rotted manure and soil), with the same width of the pit, it is necessary to dig to a depth of 60-70 cm.

Important! Fertilizers should not come into contact with the roots of seedlings, so they are sprinkled with a layer of soil.

Before placing the seedling in the hole, you need to pour water into it and wait until it is absorbed. Then a rose with a closed root system is immediately placed in the soil, and if the roots are open, then they will have to be cut to a third of the length and soaked in water (or a root growth stimulator) for several hours.

Given the size of the bush of a particular species and the rate of its growth, when planting plants, it is recommended to observe a certain interval (from 0.5 m to 1 m). However, the distance between the bushes can be determined independently, based on specific goals. For example, spray roses will look great not only in general, but also in single plantings. In the rose garden, it is necessary to observe a distance from a meter to one and a half (or 1.2 m) from a neighboring plant.

How to care for a rose in the garden

Usually roses do not require special attention, but this does not mean that proper planting and care are not important for these flowers.

How to water a rose

Caring for roses in the garden involves abundant, but infrequent watering. The ground under the bushes should not dry out, and the first sign that your rose needs water is withered flowers and leaves of the plant. Usually on medium bush roses require about 5 liters of liquid, and a climbing plant needs 15 liters.

The water used for irrigation should not contain chlorine or be too cold, because for the normal life support of the bush, it must be watered with water slightly heated in the sun. The larger the bush becomes (roses are constantly growing and forming), the more water will go to watering.

Flower feeding rules

If you grow roses, then you probably know that caring for them and growing them in the garden require periodic fertilization of the soil. In this plan it is better to give preference to natural top dressing - manure. The ideal option is horse manure, which has at least six months of aging. The waste products of chickens or pigs (especially when fresh) can only harm plants: because of the acid contained in them, young shoots will simply burn out. Fresh manure is also bad for the soil, blocking nitrogen.

In the process of the appearance of buds, it is necessary to feed the plant with a solution of calcium nitrate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), and during the period of active growth and development of the rose, it must be watered every 10-15 days with an infusion of herbs, a solution of mineral fertilizers, infused mullein or chicken droppings . In order for the plant to better perceive the applied top dressing (for example, mineral fertilizers), it must be applied in dissolved form, immediately after the next watering. In the second part of July, roses stop feeding. Bushes begin to prepare for the cold.

Did you know? Like people, roses are also able to survive stress. In this state, they are in a period of extreme heat, cold or prolonged rains. Help survivethey can do this time by spraying the plant with "Zircon", "Epin", "Ecosil" or sodium humate.

How to prune a rose

Very important for roses is the formation of a bush with the help of mechanical action, this is especially true when caring for a plant in open field. Pruning is carried out by removing all damaged and weak branches, as well as those that are directed into the thick of the bush. After that, it is more clear how to further form a bush.

Important! It is necessary to prune a rose before buds swell on its branches. If asametwo branches interfere with each other, then the one that is located more successfully should be left. Also, preference is given to young shoot with light skin.

When growing a grafted plant, you will inevitably encounter many extra shoots sprouting at the base of the bush (this happens in the spring). These shoots take away a lot of strength from the plant, which means that there are practically none left for lush flowering. So you need to leave only the most powerful, strong and tall of them, which in the summer will be able to give flowers. Everything else can be easily trimmed.

Pruning of roses after flowering is carried out at the gardener's own request, but during the procedure it is necessary to leave at least two buds on the shoots. No need to be afraid to perform this procedure: after a haircut, the rose is more actively overgrown with new greenery. Care should be taken only with a rose that does not restore its shape so quickly or the soil under it is too poor.

With the onset of autumn, all wilted flowers and damaged shoots are removed from the bush. All sections are immediately treated with garden pitch.

plant transplant method

In some cases, plant care also includes replanting the rose to a new location. However, first you need to make sure that the growing conditions in the new place will not differ from the previous ones: the rose will be able to receive enough sunlight and will be protected from the wind. If everything is in order with this, then we proceed to the preparation of the pit, filling it according to the requirements of the plant.

First of all, remove all weed roots from the chosen place. Then, leave the hole for a couple of days - the earth should settle. After that, it will be possible to proceed to digging a bush. You need to try to dig a rose with as large an earthy lump as possible. This is a rather difficult task, since the ground under the rose gardens is very loose and crumbles easily. Therefore, before digging, in order to better hold the earth, it should be watered, and to facilitate work near the bush, it is tied.

Important! Dealing with a large rose bush is quite difficult, so it's best to ask for help right away.

Having prepared a new pit for transplanting a plant, you must perform the following steps:

If the earth turned out to be too loose, and you failed to save the clod, then after digging up the plant, inspect all the roots well - damaged ones must be removed.

It happens that the rose "does not notice" the transplant and immediately takes root in a new place, but most often, especially when transplanted in spring or summer, the rose will take a long time to recover. Roses are quite tenacious, therefore, both care under standard conditions and their transplantation is a time-consuming, but not dangerous process for roses.

How to prepare a rose for winter

They begin to prepare a rose for winter in the middle of summer, stopping feeding the bushes with nitrogen fertilizers (at this time, the roses get potash and phosphorus baits). From mid-September, faded inflorescences are cut off, allowing the rose to fade before wintering. Many gardeners are interested in the question: Should garden flowers be cut in autumn? This is not required, but in some cases pruning the shoots makes it easier to cover the plants.

In hybrid tea species, ½ of the height of old branches is shortened in autumn, while park roses and scrubs are shortened by only 1/3 of their height. Climbing, miniature and ground cover species do not cut, trying to cover them along the entire length.

Before sheltering garden roses, they cut off all the leaves and inflorescences, since under the snow cover they can become a source of fungal diseases. In addition, pests often persist on the reverse side of the leaves. To destroy them before covering the plants with a film, the bush and the soil under it should be treated with a 5% solution of copper sulfate. Like caring for roses, preparing plants for winter will not take you much time and effort, the main thing is to carry out all the described activities on time.

How to propagate roses

There are not many ways to propagate roses, however, the desire of gardeners to have as many of these wonderful flowers on their site as possible, makes them thoroughly study each method. Let's take a look at each of them.

cuttings

The propagation method of garden roses by cuttings is good because established plants will not produce wild shoots. The stalk is part of a strong shoot, and it is cut next to the leaf bud. After germination using root stimulants, when roots appear on the cutting, you get a ready-made seedling that can be transferred to the ground.

Propagation of roses by cuttings provides for the rooting of two types of stem shoots: lignified and semi-lignified and is most often used for breeding room or park roses. Basically, the cuttings are cut when the green shoots of roses begin to become stiff (at the beginning of the flowering of the bush), but too lignified specimens are not suitable for this role.

seeds

Propagation of roses by seeds is rare. First of all, the result has to wait a long time, and secondly, n and you can never be completely sure that it will turn out to be positive. Seed germination during propagation of roses leaves much to be desired.

Did you know?Usually, the seed method of propagating flowers is used when breeding new varieties of roses or hybrids. He practices forbreedingwild roses, although not all species produce full-fledged seeds.

Rose budding

Rose budding involves the following steps. On the bark of the plant stem (as close as possible to the ground level), it is necessary to make a T-shaped incision and insert the bud of the selected cultivar into it. After that, it is fixed with a film. The scion can use the developed root system of the stock. The operation itself is simple, although it requires some experience.

Reproduction by layering

Climbing and shrub roses, which are mainly found in gardens, are propagated by layering. This method is considered the most suitable, largely due to the fact that such plants have long and strong stems.

The shoot of the rose is cut in the lower part (by ring cuts in the bark), after which a match or a sliver is inserted into the cut. The cut part of the shoot is placed in a pre-dug shallow groove in the ground and fixed there. The free end must be tied to a pre-driven peg. From above, the shoot is sprinkled with earth (the top should remain outside).

Over time, the rooted shoot must be cut off from the parent bush (in most cases, this happens next spring, although it may take root by autumn). In this way, you can get new bushes not only from own-rooted roses, but also from grafted ones.

wonderful plant, which at proper care will delight you for years to come.

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Many flower growers, first of all, are guided by the advice of their friends on how to care for roses, and in the process they make common mistakes. But in order for the garden rose to develop correctly and bloom beautifully, care for this royal flower should be carried out on the basis of professional recommendations.

Caring for young roses after planting

From the article you will learn how to properly care for roses, starting from the very first year, what procedures must be performed in different time year, and how the pruning of different types of roses differs.

Immediately after the rose seedlings have been planted, it is necessary to provide them with regular abundant watering in the evening or morning time. It should be watered carefully under the root of the seedling, avoiding the erosion of the roots and the ingress of water on the aerial part. Daily watering is carried out until the plant is fully rooted, then it is enough to water once a week.

Video about caring for roses after winter

Very carefully every month you need to loosen the ground under the bush, trying not to damage the fragile root system. With the onset of cold weather, the soil around the rose is compacted.

At spring planting roses, pruning of seedlings is done in advance, and if planted in autumn, the shoots are pruned next spring, leaving about five of the strongest. Climbing roses do not need pruning.

In the first summer, all buds are removed from the rose bush so that the plant develops properly, otherwise the rose simply will not be able to fully provide itself with all the necessary substances. Only when cutting buds do not remove the leaves - they will still be useful for the plant for photosynthesis. And make sure that pests do not appear on the leaves.

In the first summer, all buds are removed from the rose bush so that the plant develops properly.

How to care for adult roses at different times of the year

Spring

Early spring is well suited for, while the soil is prepared from autumn or at least a month before transplanting. Planted bushes before bud break are sprayed with Bordeaux liquid in order to protect roses from fungal diseases.

In April, roses are pruned, removing all blackened and broken shoots to a strong live bud. Also during spring pruning, attention is paid to the formation of a symmetrical beautiful bush. All sections are smeared with garden pitch.

In April, roses are pruned, removing all blackened and broken shoots to a strong living bud.

Pruning different types of roses:

Must be pruned annually hybrid tea roses(almost all varieties), as they bloom on growths formed in the current year. With strong pruning, all old shoots are removed, medium branches are cut in half, and young ones - up to three to five buds.
Varieties of floribunda roses also form flowers on young shoots. Abundant flowering gives combined pruning. The bush in the first year is cut into three to five buds, and later the annual shoots are shortened by a third of the length. Three-year-old branches are completely cut off.
Climbing large-flowered roses bloom on last year's growth, and therefore only five-year-old branches should be removed. Faded shoots in the summer are cut to the nearest leaf.
Ramblers bloom once on shoots that have successfully endured frost. Pruning is done on the ring as soon as the roses fade. Old shoots need to be cut off so that they do not reduce the flowering of the bush.
Shrubs also bloom on the shoots of the current year. Annual shoots are cut by a third and be sure to cut out the branches growing inside the bush.
Light pruning is enough for standard roses, and in case of freezing, the branches are cut to healthy buds.

It is essential to prune hybrid tea roses every year.

Summer

Summer care for roses comes down to weeding, periodic loosening of the soil, watering and fertilizing. Watering roses requires plentiful, but infrequent, otherwise the root system of plants will begin to develop close to the surface of the earth, and it can be easily damaged when loosening. On average, for one rose bush five liters of water is enough for one watering, but if it is a climbing rose, up to fifteen liters may be required. It is not recommended to use cold and chlorinated water. The fact that roses do not have enough water, you will understand by small, quickly withering flowers.

Feeding roses with complex fertilizers is carried out before the start of mass flowering, and in August the bushes are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. The mulch under the bushes needs to be updated periodically, as it is washed away by rains.

To prevent pests and diseases from appearing on roses, it is necessary in advance, in July, to spray the bushes with preparations containing copper.

To prevent pests and diseases from appearing on roses, it is necessary to spray the bushes in advance, in July

For stimulation abundant flowering Don't forget to remove faded buds. Also in the summer, pruning of young long shoots should be carried out. And by the end of summer, watering should be reduced to a minimum.

Autumn

The main task of caring for roses in the fall is preparing plants for a cold winter. In this regard, the watering of roses is gradually stopped, leaving only loosening the soil and weeding. Bushes are treated for prevention with one percent Bordeaux liquid. Carry out pruning of faded shoots in climbing roses and the main other varieties of roses.

With the arrival of night frosts, roses must be sprinkled with a prepared dry mixture of earth, sand and peat. In floribunda roses, the stem, cut for the winter to 30 cm, should be almost completely covered with soil mixture; grandiflora and hybrid tea varieties spud to a height of 25 cm, cutting off all leaves and flowers. From above, the bushes are covered with spruce branches, glassine, cardboard, film or sawdust. Ground-cover, park and polyanthus roses need to be pricked up a little, without pruning or covering for the winter.

Curly, climbing and spray roses for the winter need to be shortened by fifteen centimeters, cut off the foliage and bend the shoots to the ground, laying a film under them to isolate from excess dampness coming from the ground. Also fix the film over the bent roses - in this case, spruce branches are not required. With the advent of spring, you will first need to remove the top film, and then remove the film from the ground and tie the lashes of roses to the supports.

Rose care video

Winter

Before the snow falls, you need to take care of protecting the roses from rodents by spreading poison around the bushes. And when enough snow falls, sprinkle covered roses on top of them, forming small snowdrifts. At the end of winter, it is recommended to periodically compact the snow around the bushes so that the mice, due to lack of food, do not crawl under the shelter and gnaw the bark on the roses.

With the onset of thaws, rose bushes can begin to be ventilated by temporarily lifting the spruce branches or polyethylene with which they were covered. It will be possible to completely remove the shelter only when the severe frosts end (approximately in March-April), and the earth thaws.

Who can resist the charm of delicate rosebuds? Certainly not enthusiastic flower growers!

Therefore, every flower lover must have a rose in a pot in his home collection.

Very often the purchase of a rose is spontaneous. Still, because in the store they look very attractive. Indoor roses are often given to women who love flowers.

In any case, if you purchased a rose or received it as a gift, our article will definitely come in handy.

How to save an indoor rose after purchase

A rose is not an easy flower for home maintenance, it is quite demanding and capricious. It is not enough to become the happy owner of this beauty, it is also necessary to save the flower and find an approach to it, otherwise the sad consequences will not keep you waiting.

Yes exactly. The purchased plant usually looks fresh and full of energy, blooms amazingly and it seems that it will always be like this.

In fact, the plants come to the counter fed with all kinds of stimulants, in addition, they have a special package that retains high humidity. Getting on our windowsill, roses are deprived of all this.

Almost immediately, inexperienced flower growers have problems: roses begin to turn yellow, their leaves dry and fly around, the buds fall off and turn black. Rosette orders to live long and disappears, leaving behind nothing but frustration.

It should be noted that the rose is considered an open ground plant. Some varieties are more suited to indoor living than others. But this does not mean that keeping them in an apartment is an easy task.

When purchasing a room rose, after the purchase, it is simply necessary to take a set of rescue measures, even if the plant looks healthy and strong. Trust me, it won't be long!

So, what are the steps to take when you brought a rose home:

Remove packing wrap, if present. Although the packaging helps to retain moisture, but because of it, the rose is often affected by fungal diseases even in the store, because. packaging interferes with air exchange, creating an ideal environment for fungi.
Remove with secateurs or scissors all wilted leaves, blackened and dried stems that are on the plant.
Flowers and buds also need to be cut. Of course, for the sake of them we acquire a plant and we would like to admire them to our heart's content, but the plant, whose flowering was stimulated by special preparations and greenhouse care, subsequently simply cannot withstand such abundant flowering, and having given it all its strength, dies. Therefore, we cut off all the flowers and buds that are present on the plant, along with the supporting stem.
Pay attention to the number of bushes in the pot. Manufacturers indoor roses often several plants are planted in one pot to create the appearance of a lush flowering bush. Crowded plants weaken each other, nutrients are not enough. Bushes, if there are several, must be planted in different pots.
After transplantation, it is necessary to treat the rose with antifungal drugs (Fitosporin) and pesticides (Fitoverm).

Transplanting a room rose

To transplant a rose, take it out of the old pot along with an earthy clod. Assess the condition of the roots braiding the ground.

If the roots are as thin as hair, brown or blackened, dry or rotten, the plant is likely to die. You can make an attempt to save him: cut the cuttings and try to root them.

Healthy roots are bright white or yellowish in color and look quite dense, like a thin wire. If the roots have disappeared only partially, you need to remove all rotten and damaged ones, leaving healthy ones.

Pour expanded clay or other drainage at the bottom of the new pot.

It is better to purchase a soil mixture ready for roses or garden. Do not take cheap soil, it has a lot of peat and few nutrients. It is better to choose a better soil mixture.

You can make the soil mixture yourself by taking: 1 part of humus + 1 part of leafy soil + 1 part of coniferous soil + 3 parts of soddy soil + 1 part of sand.

Fill the drainage with earth, compact a little. Place the rose bush together with the earthy clod, fill it with new earth, periodically compacting it so that the bush does not hang out in the pot, but is well fixed. Pour with settled or filtered water room temperature.

Treatment for diseases and pests is essential. A pruned and transplanted plant is weakened and susceptible to diseases, even if it was purchased in the store good care and there was no infection. Therefore, it is better to play it safe and process it.

Also, after transplantation, treatment with Epin is effective - it will strengthen the plant's immunity and reduce transplant stress.

Spray your plant, it needs high humidity, especially in conditions of working heating and dry air of the apartment. If the rose is very small and weak, then the pot can be covered with a bottle (with small holes) on top, creating a greenhouse, and only then gradually accustom the rose to the apartment air.

Room rose care

Lighting

The rose is a photophilous plant. For her well-being, she needs a lot of light. South windows are very good for growing. On the other cardinal points in winter, lighting will be required.

Temperature

The optimum temperature for growing indoor roses is 18-25 degrees. Since the rose is an open field plant, it loves fresh air very much and it needs it for full growth. In summer, the rose can be taken out into the garden or onto the balcony. The rest of the time you need to organize ventilation, while avoiding drafts that are harmful to roses.

Watering

Homemade rose is watered with settled water at room temperature. Cold water is bad for them. The rose will be grateful for regular spraying both in the summer heat and in the winter heating season. If the rosette is near the battery, then it is better to put it in a tray with wet expanded clay.

fertilizers

The rosette is fed with complex fertilizers for roses from spring to winter once every 2-3 weeks, gradually reducing the frequency of feeding in the fall.

reproduction

Indoor rose is propagated by cuttings. For this, cuttings up to 15 cm long, with several buds, are suitable. They are rooted in the ground, covered with a bottle or bag on top. To do this, you can take small cups for seedlings.

Roots appear in about 2 weeks. The greenhouse can be gradually removed after the appearance of new leaves. It is possible to transplant rooted cuttings only when the root system develops well.

pruning

Roses periodically require pruning to form a bush. It is best to produce it in the spring. Branches that have elongated during the winter, faded flowers, weak and dry branches are removed.

Diseases and pests of indoor roses

Problems and their solution:

The rose dries

Especially often this problem occurs in summer and winter. On hot days, the rose evaporates a lot of moisture, you need to closely monitor the soil moisture, preventing it from completely drying out, and spray it regularly. In winter, due to heating appliances, the air humidity tends to zero, the plant begins to experience a lack of humidity.

The rosette dries up in the following cases:

the root system is damaged or dead and the rose cannot absorb moisture and nutrients
insufficient watering and humidity
very dry indoor air
a rose stands near the heating appliances

If you notice that your rose leaves have begun to dry, do not wait to continue, but take measures to save the flower. First of all, you need to check the soil in the pot, if it is dry, water it. It is also recommended to remove the plant from the batteries central heating. Put the rose in a tray with wet expanded clay and spray more often. If the rose bush small size, then you can cover it with a bag or bottle until the plant returns to normal.

If these measures do not help, remove the plant from the pot and see what condition the roots are in. If they are dry and brittle, darkened, then the flower is threatened with death, and all that remains is to take cuttings from it. Because if the roots of the plant have dried up due to rare watering, or for other reasons (sometimes they are already from the store) and died, then there is no way to restore them.

Rose leaves turn yellow

Why leaves may turn yellow:

excessive watering, the roots do not have enough air
nutrient-poor soil: lack of nitrogen, potassium, manganese, phosphorus
iron deficiency (chlorosis)
putrefactive processes in the root system
pests

If your rose turns yellow, first of all pay attention to watering, if it is too frequent. What kind of potting soil? Doesn't it resemble swamps? In this case, watering should be reduced, leave only spraying for a while.

If after the purchase you have not yet transplanted a rose, then do it urgently. The land in which they are sold is very poor in nutrients. Either the soil in which you transplanted the plant was not best quality, this also happens.

You can try to feed the rose with complex fertilizers for flowers, preferably specifically for roses. Favorite fertilizers: Greenworld and Bona Forte for roses.

If top dressing helps weakly and only for a while, then it is worth transplanting the plant into a more nutritious soil. You should not transplant a rose into the ground from the garden.

If you find chlorosis in a rose - this is a characteristic yellowing of the leaves, then this indicates a lack of iron. Feed the rose with Iron Chelate or Ferrovit according to the instructions.

rose chlorosis

If rose long time flooded (perhaps this happened back in the store + a fungus often joins from high humidity), then its root system could rot. If the roots look black or brown, easily crushed with a finger, then they are rotten and cannot be restored. If part of the roots is healthy, then the rotten roots must be removed, the flower should be transplanted into a pot with good drainage and no longer poured.

Water the rose only with water at room temperature. Very cold water poorly dissolves the nutrients that are contained in the ground and the plant does not receive them. It also contributes to the decay of the roots, a decrease in the immunity of the plant and increases the susceptibility to disease.

Roses darken, wither, leaves fall

Leaf drop may be due to dryness (see Rose dries above). If the leaves do not dry, but wither and fall, then this may be for the following reasons:

the rose is frozen (draft, airing in winter, if the wind blew on it, etc.)
pouring cold water
fungal diseases
viral diseases
pests

dark, wilted leaves and shoots need to be cut. If the rose is frozen, then gradually it will move away by itself, dropping frostbitten leaves.

How to recognize fungal diseases? Blackening or graying, covered with bloom, stems, all kinds of growths and plaques, spots on the leaves, “rust” of roses, powdery mildew are a sign of fungal diseases. From them we produce the treatment with Fitosporin according to the instructions.

How to recognize viral diseases? Changing the color of the leaves, mosaic, deformation of the shape of the leaf plate are signs of a viral disease. Viral diseases are treated by removing damaged shoots and improving the conditions of the plant and increasing its immunity.

How to recognize a pest? Often the consequences of the actions of malicious insects are visible visually. On the leaves there are either the pests themselves, they can be very small, multi-colored and transparent, but still if you look closely, you will see how they move, or traces of their vital activity - spots on the leaves eaten away by spots, paths, black dots, cobwebs (when infected spider mite). Roses are generally very fond of ticks, aphids, thrips and other pests; in the summer, treatment with drugs against them is strictly required, even if you do not see them. In this case, we use the drug Fitoverm according to the instructions.

Still, it is worth remembering that no matter how hard you try to create greenhouse conditions inside the apartment, the rose may not appreciate it, and it is best to plant it in the garden, where it will definitely feel at home.

No one will argue that the name of the queen of the garden was given to the rose for a reason. In the future, it is unlikely that anyone will be able to move her from this pedestal, little will change in terms of the main types of roses, which have long been determined in conditional classification adopted among rose breeders, gardeners and flower growers.

The only thing that changes with the passage of time is that the cultivation of roses is no longer the prerogative of professionals - now anyone, even an absolute beginner in gardening, can start growing them. This happens because new varieties of roses have been developed that grow without outside help and require very little care.

Another reason why the popularity of roses has increased again is the fact that new varieties have been bred with dense double flowers, fragrant and reminiscent of ancient varieties of ancestors.

The last decade in the development of new roses has been a particularly intensive work with attempts to combine both qualities. The result is the emergence of many varieties of roses that combine both aroma and beautiful flowers and endurance, both to diseases and pests that do not require everyday and tedious care.

To make it easier for gardeners to deal with various types and varieties of roses and choose the appropriate ones, let's start by dividing them into conditional groups or categories.

Conditional because as a result of breeding work to develop new varieties of roses, the boundaries between them are gradually erased, some species and varieties, having borrowed species characteristics from others, become similar to each other to the degree of confusion, so it is often difficult even to determine which group a particular rose belongs to professional..

We offer you here a classification that is often used by amateurs, summer residents and ordinary, non-professional flower growers to identify roses in rose gardens, flower beds and flower beds. According to her, roses are divided into species and groups, depending on how they are used in the garden, on the site, and of course, on the shape of the rose bush itself.

These will be standard, shrub and flower bed roses. Roses are divided into generally accepted categories: climbing, ground cover, miniature, park and hybrid tea roses. We mentioned most of them on the pages of the site www.Vsaduidoma.ru

The main types of garden roses

climbing roses

Let's preliminarily divide them into 2 groups: Ramblers and climbers

Roses ramblers These are climbing roses reaching a length of 6 meters. The stems are flexible and small. 2-3 centimeters in diameter. The flowers of most rambler roses are collected in inflorescences, quite large. Blossom 1 time, flowering time 27-30 days. As a rule, there is no aroma at all, but there are also very weakly smelling varieties of ramblers. Requires supports or garters.

Climber roses- weaving roses, the stems, unlike ramblers, grow straight, and they are thicker than the latter, reaching 3 meters in length. Flowers reach a diameter of 10 centimeters, collected in small inflorescences. In central Russia, they bloom twice, flowering is long, very plentiful and lush. It is easy to winter, a thorough shelter for varieties of climbers is not required.

ground cover roses

The most frequent roses in flower beds and garden design elements. This is primarily due to the diversity of their growth forms - ground cover roses can be both creeping and upright (upright). They bloom all season - from spring to late autumn, usually about half a meter in height, but can be higher. The range of flowers, or rather their forms and types, is the most diverse: from terry, semi-double to the simplest and sometimes even nondescript.

miniature roses

These are varieties and types of roses, which usually do not exceed 30, less often 35-40 centimeters in height. The flowers are similar to hybrid tea roses but smaller in diameter. These roses are primarily suitable for growing in pots and containers. There are also varieties among them that grow in flowers without much care. Most of the miniature roses are remontant.

In the picture: 1. Climber climbing roses, 2. Rambler climbing roses, 3. Miniature roses, 4. Bed roses, 5. Ground cover roses

park roses

(read more,)

The flowers of park roses are the simplest, very often similar to ordinary wild roses or non-catalogue species roses. They can bear fruit in autumn, peculiar berries resembling rose hips. The main disadvantage of park roses is a rare and single flowering. They got their name because they are grown mainly in parks, for the reason that they take up a lot of space, which are few in our dachas.

In the picture: 6. Shrub roses, 7. Hybrid tea roses, 8. Cascading roses, 9. park roses, 10. Standard roses

shrub roses

The main and characteristic sign of shrub roses is a tall bush with a large diameter of diverging stems. In height, quite easily when grown with minimal care, it can reach 2.5-2.7 meters. The most popular varieties among flower growers are representatives of this species "Modern Shrab", "Grandiflora". Most often used to create hedges on homemade, or often mixed (using other plants). Also well suited for creating a flower garden exclusively from roses. Formed rose gardens from shrub roses are very beautiful.

The group of shrub roses includes many modern varieties of remontant roses, as well as old, so-called "nostalgic" varieties, once blooming, with double flowers.

hybrid tea roses

This type of rose captivates the hearts of gardeners primarily with its large double flowers. The stems grow to a height of up to a meter, erect (upright). One of the best cut roses. All hybrid tea roses are remontant, and almost all are fragrant. In landscape design and flower garden formation, they are used in combination with herbaceous perennials or.

Hybrid tea roses have large, elegant flowers and upright shoots that reach a height of 1 m, so they look good in the flower garden, and are also great for cutting.

cascading roses

Roses grafted onto a trunk at a height of 140 centimeters with varieties of climbing or ground cover roses. The stems of cascading roses are long, often hanging down. The shapes of the flowers depend on the grafting, therefore they are actually very diverse both in color and in diameter and shape.

standard roses

Like miniature roses, standard roses are well suited for growing in pots and containers, which of course does not negate their cultivation in a flower garden or rose garden, which they will undoubtedly transform. To form and compact the crown of this type of roses, hybrid tea roses, the already mentioned miniature or Floribunda roses, are often grafted onto them.

flower bed roses

As a rule, many gardeners and flower growers refer to flowerbed roses as polyanthus roses and Floribunda roses. Suitable for growing both in portable containers and pots, and in a flower garden in open ground. Flowers are collected in lush and beautiful inflorescences. Flowerbed roses have little to no fragrance (with the exception of a few weakly scented varieties). But their main plus is lush and long flowering. In height, flower bed roses can reach 70-80 centimeters.

Rose seedlings: choose the right one

So, we figured out approximately the types and groups of roses for a garden, flower garden, rose garden, or even a simple flower bed, now let's move on to where it all begins - rose seedlings.

The key to beautiful, luxuriantly blooming, little sick and not requiring daily care roses is, of course, the correct selection of seedlings.

First, pay attention to the shoots and stems. Their color should be green, the stems themselves are strong, resilient, so to speak, "oozing with life." The bark of the shoots should be intact, without folds, breaks and rot.

Buds are another sign of healthy rose seedlings - they must be large, well developed and look healthy, exactly the same recommendations can be given for examining the roots of roses, the roots must be intact, without breaks, and the substrate in which the seedling or earthen lump is sold must be sure to be slightly wet.

The leaves of the seedling should be rich green in color both on the inside and on the outside. We think it would be superfluous to say that there should be no stains or damage on them - if there is, then this is no longer a seedling, but money thrown to the wind.

Rose seedlings in the planting season (early autumn or spring) are most often sold with open roots, in pre-planting containers (with a closed root system)

Roses are sold with an open root system, with a closed one, as well as directly in containers.

Planting such seedlings of roses must be done immediately after purchase, this is important.

The most experienced gardeners plant roses from the beginning of September to mid-October. If you live in a cold, northern region, then it is better to plant in the spring, in a cold winter, immature seedlings with an undeveloped root system will simply freeze.

In principle, roses can be planted in the summer, in any of the months. Moreover, you can plant them even flowering. True, it will come out a little more expensive for the money, but they will take root well.

As you can see in the right photo, the roots of rose seedlings are in the ground, moss is occasionally used. They can protect the root system of a seedling for several days, such seedlings are usually packed neatly and there is practically no damage to the root system.

What to look for when choosing and buying rose seedlings

On the label. On quality rose seedlings, a tag is always attached with brief information about the breeder, about the type (group) of roses, and of course with information about the variety.
Also pay attention to the so-called “ADR” sign (more about it below): such a sign is issued to varieties of roses that are highly resistant to diseases and have high decorative features.
The most expensive seedlings, the highest category, must have at least three shoots, of which 2 grow from grafting. Cheaper rose seedlings already have 2 shoots, both of which grow from the grafting site.

The best place to plant roses

Whichever variety you choose for planting, remember that regardless of the variety, all roses love soft, loose, fertile soil, with good water permeability. Best Level soil acidity, the so-called pH - 6.5.

Attention: When replacing plantings do not plant roses in the same place where old roses have grown for more than 8-10 years!

Old roses have already "chosen" from the soil all the micro-elements, minerals, etc. they need, and it is not always possible to compensate for this even through the right and generous fertilizer. But they saturated the earth with spores of diseases and pests.

Despite the well-known photophilous nature of roses, it is impossible to keep them under the direct rays of the sun, especially if you live in a warm region in the South, etc. In this position, they bloom quickly, and the flowers look faded, not spectacular - that is, the very meaning of planting roses, beauty, is lost.

Based on the above, for planting roses, choose a place that is slightly shaded, especially at noon, for example, next to a low tree that you subject to annual pruning, etc.

So, in my area to the left of the cypress growing next to me, the rose bush is always, despite the constant care, stunted and faded, but on the right, it (the cypress), as if by clock, covers the second bush with itself at noon, which, despite the same planting and variety, is always more powerful and prettier, so it's been tested in practice.

Preparing to plant rose seedlings

Immediately before planting roses, seedlings should first be prepared. So the roots that are too long should be cut a little with a sharp (!) Pruner, and all dry ones removed completely (as a rule, dry roots in roses are recognized even by touch).

In this case, in no case do not touch the filiform roots.

Pruning must also be done on the stems of the seedling - in the spring, leave two to four buds, in the fall, when planting, the seedlings are shortened to 33-35 centimeters.

Tip: A few hours before planting (approximately 2), dip the seedlings in a bucket of water and leave them there for the specified time, or even better, do it in the evening, and plant in the morning, that is, at night.

Planting roses - step by step

If the soil in your country house, plot or flower garden is predominantly clayey, then add river or other sand to the pit under the seedling. If, in turn, you have sandy soil, then add compost to the rose hole in turn.

The hole for planting a rose should be 10 centimeters larger than (wider and deeper) than the earth ball and the roots that are in it. Loosen the bottom of the planting hole.
The depth at which the rose seedling is planted is determined by the place of grafting, which should be buried 4-5 centimeters into the soil. Mix the soil selected from the planting hole with compost (approximately 1 to 3), and add a handful of real wood ash(not chemistry, not ash from cardboard boxes and other things - only wood!).
Hold the rose seedling evenly at the desired depth and gradually fill the hole with earth.
Be sure to compact the soil well around the planting.
For watering a seedling: make an earthen border around the planting to prevent water from spreading. Be sure to spud the seedling by 15 centimeters, no less - this must be done in spring and autumn. In spring, hilling is useful from drying out, in autumn it helps from frost. At the onset of the autumn period, excess land can be removed.

Photo 3: Proper planting of roses for beginners

Fastening and supports

Supports and fastenings are needed, first of all, for standard roses - they need to be tied to the supports with a soft cloth or the same twine, making a kind of "eight" out of it. Periodically inspect the plant and loosen the knots to prevent the twine from growing into the tissue of the rose shoot.

rose pruning

The goal of any rose pruning is replacement. That is, it is produced in order to replace the old stems and shoots with young ones that will bloom luxuriantly and profusely. Pruning of old drying shoots is done before the start of healthy, green wood.

Weakened stems are also pruned by significantly shortening them, powerful shoots are either not touched at all or pruned slightly.

Root shoots, the scourge of grafted roses, are completely removed when pruning.

The general rule of pruning is this: the stronger it is, the more strength the rose will need to form new stems.

Pruning standard (including cascading) roses is determined by their variety and type of scion - so ground covers, as a general rule, shorten them by half their growth every 2 years.

Spring pruning roses

Spring pruning is started mainly at the end of March, in colder regions - at the beginning of April.

But of course, these dates can shift, depending on the climate, the weather in any direction, so in addition to the exact dates, use this sign: you should start pruning roses when the buds swell on the tops of the most powerful shoots, usually at the same time the plant blooms in the flower garden forsythia.

Photo 4: Pruning roses

How to properly cut stems

Believe me, this is important.

The shoots of roses are cut above the bud, from which the shoot will subsequently appear. Such a kidney should be directed outward, to the outside - this is done in order to avoid thickening the bush and giving it a beautiful shape.

In order not to damage the kidney with a pruner, cut the shoot 5-7 millimeters higher. Make the cut oblique and it should be directed down from the kidney, this is done so that moisture from fog and rainwater flowed down at the place of the cut, did not stagnate on it, which can cause it to penetrate into the core and the shoot will rot.

Pruning roses for lush and abundant blooms.

To achieve beautiful and lush flowering Roses need to follow a few rules.

1. Climbing roses remontant varieties buds grow both on young shoots and on one-year-old or more shoots, so only lateral shoots are pruned, leaving 4-5 buds. In one-time blooming roses, the flowers are located on the growths of the previous year, so new stems are not cut, the bush is slightly thinned out, in last resort you can delete 2 old skeletal branches.

2. Miniature roses, floribunda and hybrid tea roses flower on young stems so they need to be pruned quite heavily. Hybrid tea and Floribunda are pruned a little in the fall, and such pruning is more sanitary in nature: diseased and weak shoots are removed, but in the spring they are pruned more thoroughly - leaving a shoot with three, four buds. Pruning of miniature roses is done in the spring, they are shortened by 12-15 centimeters.

3. In remontant shrub roses, flowers are located on young stems, so the bush is thinned out, while shortening the stems on the outside of the bush to 5 buds.

If the skeletal branches need to be shortened, then do it by a third or even two-thirds of the length.

once blooming roses shrubs bloom luxuriantly on last year's growth, so their pruning must be done immediately after flowering.

We cover roses for the winter

Sheltering roses for the winter is a very important procedure. Otherwise, you can lose all the work that you have invested in your favorites in the summer. Therefore, when autumn comes, stock up on burlap, spruce branches or any other covering material.

You need to cover roses in November-early December (this is the deadline).

Covering methods also depend on the variety and species. So rose hips can not be covered at all.

You can’t use a film for shelter - the plants under it can easily dry up, by the way, the sun can also damage roses in winter - unjustified early sap flow during the thaw may begin, and when new frosts come, they will freeze, as a rule, then it’s already irrevocable - it’s difficult to save such roses, because the tissue of the plant suffers, black rings appear that are clearly visible in the spring on the cut. So nonwoven fabric for shelter will be just right.

As a rule, the grafting site suffers from frost the most, in fact, therefore, we recommended above that you bury it when planting a seedling at a depth of 5 centimeters.

Roses in autumn need to be additionally sprinkled with dry earth, better with compost, and cover with spruce branches (if possible). Then cover shrub, miniature roses, floribunda and hybrid tea with non-woven material.

One-year-old standard roses hibernate horizontally, for which gently bend the shoots to the ground and secure with wire pins. Be sure to fill the grafting site with earth or compost, do the same with the crown of the bush.

Old and adult standard roses can successfully overwinter and vertically, you can simply pull a bag over a bush and fill it with dry foliage from below, and tie the bottom, and the garter must necessarily be below the vaccination site. Shoots as well as in previous cases spud and insulate.

Shrub roses, especially those that have grown strongly over the summer, are difficult to cover. In this case, a cylindrical wire cage, larger in diameter than a rose bush without a bottom and a lid, will come to your aid - it is placed on a bush and stuffed neatly with foliage, hay or straw.

The shelter of climbing roses consists in removing them from a hedge or trellis, laying them on a spruce branch, and warming them with burlap, for example, followed by covering them again with spruce branches. On top of such a "pie" you can put a film ..

It is optimal to transfer the wintering and, of course, only healthy roses, with good immunity to diseases, can grow and delight us with their beauty.

Therefore, even at the stage of buying a flower, ask the seller about the stability of this variety, as a rule, many of them are fanatics of their business and will explain the essence of the issue to you in detail, otherwise use the tips above for choosing rose seedlings.

To minimize the stress of a rose from moving to a new “place of residence”, take the choice of a landing site as seriously as possible, consider not only landscape design and its reception, but try to make sure that your desires and opportunities coincide with “desires and opportunities” roses.

If the variety is resistant to diseases, for example, they took a seedling they liked from friends who do not know either its origin or the name of the variety, do regular spraying with preparations for prevention.

If the prevention did not help and the rose fell ill, then immediately remove the entire affected part of the plant - this will save not only it, but also other nearby bushes. By the way, in fairness, it must be said that most often diseases are spread precisely with cuttings taken from friends and not from the market or stores, so in such cases, do not be lazy to process the seedling immediately.

If removing the diseased parts does not help, resort to chemical or folk remedies to spray the affected rose (we will describe them in detail a little later in the next article).

It is necessary to inspect the roses in the garden as often as possible, at least 1-2 times a week - because the sooner you notice signs of the disease, the easier it is to defeat it, and the rose will suffer less from removing the affected stems. Be sure to burn any plant parts you remove from a diseased plant - don't compost them because next year You will spread the infection with him throughout the site. Before wintering and sheltering roses, remove dried leaves that have not fallen, as well as dried flowers, berries.

Before sheltering roses for the winter, be sure to collect the cut parts of the plants and remove the dried, but not fallen leaves, also tear off the withered flowers and fruits.

Usage folk remedies and homemade preparations for spraying roses.

In order to prevent the occurrence of fungal diseases in roses, spray them with a decoction of horsetail grass every 2 weeks.

Preparation of horsetail solution

To prepare a decoction, take 150 grams of dry grass or one kilogram of raw grass, chop the grass and pour one liter of water, then boil and cook for half an hour over low heat. A decoction for spraying is diluted 1 to 10 before use.

Solution for spraying roses from aphids

Take 30 grams of dry or 400-450 grams of green wormwood (bitter) and pour ten liters of boiling water, then leave for at least 10 minutes. Then strain and dilute 1 to 3. Spray the bush more carefully and on both sides of the leaf - if you spray only on top and lightly, then the aphids will simply crawl under the bottom of the leaves, and crawl back as soon as possible or after rain.

The main pests of roses

1. "Rose aphid".

Lives on the tips of the stems, underside of the leaf, buds. Eats juice.

How to deal: Cutting the shoots inhabited by aphids, spraying with a solution of wormwood (the solution recipe is given above), home-made nettle mash helps in the fight against rose aphids. If it is not possible to prepare folk solutions, then treat with any chemical. remedy for leaf-eating or sap-sucking pests.

2. "Rose leafhoppers"

Little insects. Favorite place of residence is the lower part of the rose leaf. characteristic feature- small white spots appear on the outer part of the leaves. The period of appearance is June, or the first half of July, as well as August-September.

Control measures: treatment of roses with simple liquid laundry soap.

3. Rose pest - spider mite.

Also inhabits the underside of the leaves. The leaves are covered with yellow spots, then rapidly become gray, white. If there is a lot of reproduction spider mite, then on back side thin cobwebs are visible to the naked eye.

How to deal: since the tick loves sunny and dry places, then avoid them when planting a rose, if this is not possible due to any circumstances, then remove the leaves affected by the tick, sometimes shoots if the resettlement process has gone too far and then spray with a decoction of horsetail ( solution recipe above) or tobacco. Also effective against spider mites are infusions of yarrow and garlic.

4. "Rozanny leaflet".

Its peculiarity as a pest of roses is that it lays its eggs on the edge of the leaves of a rose, because of which they begin to curl up into a tube, and in early to mid-June, a larva ripens in them.

Control measures: Removal of leaves affected by the pest, spraying with any insecticides.

5. "Sawfly or rotten rose"

The pest lays its eggs right on the pink shoot, the larvae emerging from the eggs drill holes in the shoots and penetrate into their middle, which first causes a slowdown in growth and then the death of the stem. Signs of its presence are holes in the shoots that appear as early as May.

Ways and measures to combat the sawfly: only the removal of the affected shoots. As a preventive measure, regular spraying of the rose with a solution of bitter wormwood (recipe above) can play a good role.

Rose pests - photo

Diseases of roses and measures to combat them

1. Black spotted roses ().

The main sign of black spot is black or purple spots with a characteristic border on the outside of the rose leaf. After the appearance of spots, the leaves turn yellow very quickly, dry and fall off. The provocative effect of the appearance of black spot on roses can be increased humidity.

Measures to combat black spotting: if prolonged rainy weather has set in, then since June, every two weeks, sometimes more often, spray roses with a solution of nettle, horsetail, and one percent Bordeaux liquid.

2. Roses and powdery mildew.

Another scourge of garden roses. The provoking factor is the same as black spot- wet and warm weather, established for a long time. A sign of the disease is clear from the name - a white, easily erased plaque on the leaves.

How to fight: spraying with one percent Bordeaux liquid, manure infusion, regularly (every 10 days). To prevent powdery mildew on roses, plant them in a ventilated area that is not limited by large plants or walls. Frequent thinning of the bush can also be effective.

3. Rose Rust Rose:

Outwardly similar to black spotting, but the spots are brown, brown or yellow, and on inside leaves appear black pustules, which contain spores.

Control measures: spraying with a copper-soap solution, Bordeaux liquid (1% Noah). It is necessary to start spraying from the end of April: first, according to the scheme, three times in two days, then every 10-14 days, until the fungus disappears.

4. powdery mildew(false).

A characteristic feature is red-brown spots on the outer side of the leaves, on the back of the leaf there is a gray or white coating, indelible.

How to fight: treat the bushes with a solution of horsetail (the recipe for preparing the solution is given above), treatments with infusion of nettle, common thistle, ash solution or mullein infusion are also effective. As an additional remedy, increase potash at the root and avoid dripping water on the leaves when watering.

5. Gray rot roses:

The provoking factor is prolonged rainy weather. Sign of gray rot: mold gray color at the ends of the stems, and buds. After the disease, they dry and fall off.

Measures to combat gray rot: increase fertilizing with fertilizers that have manganese in their composition. Prevention: treatment of roses with ordinary Bordeaux liquid (1%)

Photo of rose diseases

50 most beautiful roses from new varieties

I myself am often opposed to talking about flowers, and even more so about roses in terms of the degree of superiority of one variety over another - something like “10 best varieties of roses” or “100 most beautiful roses”, but in this case it is justified - after all, we are talking not only about beauty, but also about endurance and resistance to disease.

It's no secret that most new varieties of roses are bred not only for their "beauty" - breeders develop new varieties that are resistant to diseases, which, unfortunately, our pets suffer more and more.

How to determine how hardy a particular variety of roses is?

The so-called ADR sign (“Allgemeine Deutsche Rosenneuheitenprufung”) will help you with this - in Russian it is translated as “All-German certification of new varieties of roses”.

This list includes only those roses that have increased cold resistance, abundance and duration of flowering, resistance to pests and diseases.

At the end of 2011, this list contained 180 varieties of roses, and in the same year it was updated by only 5 points - the Germans are demanding and scrupulous people.

How do roses get into this catalog list and what does the ADR sign mean?

The ADR mark is awarded to varieties of roses with a high degree of hardiness and the best flowering rates.

Roses eligible for this ADR mark? for three years they are planted in 11 different gardens throughout Germany. In order to test them for endurance in different climatic and weather conditions, taking into account the difference in soil and other factors.

Roses are cared for in the most ordinary way, except for one thing - flower growers are forbidden to treat them from diseases and pests of roses. As a result, what is called “at the exit”, roses are obtained that do not require chemical treatment, moreover, their selection, as we see, occurs in the most natural way.

Gardeners water, feed and prune "guinea pigs" in the same way as in private gardens, but it is strictly forbidden to use any means of plant protection against diseases and pests. Among other things, such a check of roses has a positive effect on environment because the more growers grow hardy varieties, the less chemicals will be needed.

After three years, the results of planting and growing roses applying for the ADR mark are created by an expert commission of rose breeding specialists, evaluated on a 100-point system, in order to enter the group of winners, a rose needs to score 75 points or more.

This whole process was founded by the famous rose breeder Wilhelm Kordes.

What varieties of roses are ADR tested?

The most varied. Roses of all new varieties (except rosehips, which were discontinued in testing last year, 2011) are sent for testing from all over the planet, and one of the main conditions for participating in this rose competition is that the variety must be new and not sold on the market for more than 5 years.

Why are roses rated?

Points are accumulated by varieties in a complex way - here are resistance to diseases, growth rate, duration and splendor as characteristics of flowering, general form roses, fragrance. But still, the most important evaluation criterion remains resistance to diseases and pests.

A rose may lose the ADR mark if, as a result of a subsequent cross-check, it is found that it has lost any of its signs.

The most beautiful roses from the ADR catalog: photo

The best varieties of roses - PHOTO

50 varieties of the best and most beautiful roses

Description of varieties of roses in the photo

Name (ROSE VARIETY)	Group	flowers	Aroma	Bush
	floribunda	apricot, semi-double, 6 cm
2.Aspirin Rose	floribunda	white to pink, terry, 6 cm		with arched drooping stems, 70 cm high
3.Bengali	floribunda	copper yellow, terry, 6 cm	medium intensity
4.Black Forest Rose	floribunda	red, semi-double, 6 cm	is absent	sprawling, densely leafy, 70 cm high
5. Bluhwunder 08	ground cover rose	hot pink, plain, 6 cm	is absent	sprawling, densely leafy, 80 cm high
6 Comedy		yellow with red, terry, 8 cm	is absent	straight, densely leafy, 150 cm high
7. Crescendo	floribunda	pink, terry, 10 cm	is absent	straight, densely leafy, 85 cm high
8. Debut	floribunda	light yellow, terry, 4 cm	is absent	straight, densely leafy, 65 cm high
9. Elbflorenz	hybrid tea roses	hot pink, densely doubled, 9 cm		straight, densely leafy, 70 cm high
10 Gebruder Grimm	floribunda	orange with pink, densely doubled, 7 cm		straight, densely leafy, 70 cm high
11.Golden Gate		yellow, semi-double, 9 cm	medium intensity	with stems 300 cm long
12.Goldspatz		light yellow, semi-double, 9 cm	is absent	with drooping stems, 150 cm high
13. Grande Amore	hybrid tea roses	bright red, terry, 10 cm		straight, densely leafy, height 80 cm
14. Heidetraum	ground cover rose	hot pink, terry, 4 cm	is absent	low, sprawling, 75 cm high
15.Hella	climbing large-flowered (Climber)	white, semi-double, 9 cm		with shoots 250 cm long
16.Flashlight		pink, densely doubled, 10 cm		straight, densely leafy, 120 cm high
17. Hermann-Hesse-Rose	floribunda	creamy, densely doubled, 10 cm	medium intensity
18. Eliza	hybrid tea roses	silver-pink, terry, 9 cm		straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high
19. Intarsia	floribunda	yellow-pink, semi-double, 6 cm	is absent	straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high
20. Isarperle	floribunda	creamy white, terry, 6 cm	medium intensity	straight, densely leafy, 75 cm high
21. Jasmina	climbing large-flowered (Climber)	violet-pink, densely doubled, 6 cm	medium intensity	with stems 300 cm long
22. Kir Royal	climbing large-flowered (Climber)	pink, terry, 6 cm		with powerful upright stems 250-300 cm long
23. Space	floribunda	creamy, densely doubled, 8 cm	medium strength	straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high
24. La Perla	hybrid tea roses	creamy, densely doubled, 9 cm		straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high
25. Innocencia	floribunda	pure white, semi-double, 5 cm		compact, branched, 50 cm high
26. Schone Koblenzerin	floribunda	red with cream, densely doubled, 4 cm	is absent	straight, densely leafy, 60 cm high
27. Sedana	ground cover rose	creamy orange or apricot, semi-double, 5 cm	is absent	low, densely leafy, 60-70 cm high
28. La Rose de Molinard		hot pink, densely doubled, 8 cm
29. Laguna	climbing large-flowered (Climber)	hot pink, densely doubled, 10 cm		stems 250 cm long
30. Larissa		pink, terry, 5 cm	is absent	dense, branched, 80 cm high
31. Medley Pink		pink, semi-double, 4 cm	is absent	straight, densely leafy, 40 cm high
32. Mirato	ground cover rose	hot pink, terry, 6-7 cm		sprawling, branched, 50-70 cm high
33. Pastella	floribunda	cream with pink, densely doubled, 6-8 cm	medium intensity	straight, densely leafy, 60-80 cm high
34. Pink Paradise	hybrid tea roses	hot pink with yellow, terry, 9 cm		compact, densely leafy, 90 cm high
35. Pink Swany		pink, double, 6-7 cm	is absent	sprawling with falling shoots 50-60 cm high
36. Planten and Blomen	floribunda	red-white, loose, terry, 5 cm	is absent	straight, densely leafy, 70 cm high
37. Pomponella	floribunda	pink, densely doubled, 4 cm		straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high
38. Red Leonardo da Vinci	floribunda	dark red, densely doubled, 7 cm
39. Resonance	floribunda	red, semi-double, 6 cm		straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high
40. Rouge Meilove	floribunda	dark red, densely doubled, 5 cm		sprawling, branched, 40-60 cm high
41. Schloss Ippenburg	hybrid tea roses	salmon pink, terry, 8-10 cm		straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high
42. Schneeflocke	ground cover rose	white, semi-double, 6 cm		strictly straight, densely leafy, 40-50 cm high
43 Shining Light		yellow, terry, 10 cm	is absent	straight, densely leafy, 130 cm high
44. Sinea	floribunda	burgundy, loose, terry, 6 cm	is absent	straight, densely leafy, 70-90 cm high
45. Solero	floribunda	light yellow, densely doubled, 6 cm		sprawling, branched, 70 cm high
46. Sorrento	ground cover rose	red, loose, terry, 5 cm	is absent	low, densely leafy, 70-80 cm high
47. Souvenir de Baden-Baden	hybrid tea roses	creamy pink, densely doubled, 10 cm	medium intensity	straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high
48. Stadt Rom	ground cover rose	salmon pink, simple, 6-7 cm		compact, well branched, 50-60 cm high
49. Westzeit	floribunda	orange, semi-double, 6 cm	is absent	straight, densely leafy, 60-70 cm high
50. Yellow Meilove		light yellow, densely double, 5 cm	medium intensity	straight, densely leafy, 40-60 cm high

Breeders and breeders of these roses: Kordes' Sonne, Noack, Meilland, Delbard

Deciphering the symbols in the description of varieties of roses in the photo

1. Climbing roses: for planting near a support or walls that need to be decorated.
2. Flower bed roses: for planting in low and mixed flower beds.
3. Shrub roses: for hedges and planting with other shrubs.: You have repeatedly requested such requests ...: Caring for anemone flowers and ...

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