Indoor citrus fruits: types and care. citrus houseplants

Many representatives of citrus fruits when creating favorable conditions perfectly develop and grow in various residential and administrative buildings. The most popular of them is lemon, it can be found in apartments and offices, school classrooms and in preschool institutions, clinics and shops. Growing this popular pet is not easy, you have to spend a lot of time and effort on its cultivation and care. Mandarin, orange, lime, pomelo, grapefruit require the same attention. All of them have numerous useful qualities, one of which is the presence in the leaves of biologically active substances that can destroy pathogenic bacteria. Create All the necessary conditions for citrus fruits in a house or apartment, every lover of indoor plants can do it.

Location and lighting

The place for growing citrus indoor plants should not be located on the windowsill from the northern part of the house, near microwave oven, in drafts and near radiators central heating or other heating devices. Citrus fruits are shade-tolerant crops, so it is more favorable to place them on the east or west window, but it is also possible at a short distance from the south window sill.

Temperature

For plants, places where warm and cold air meet, and there is also an elevated air temperature are dangerous. In the presence of at least one of these unfavorable moments, the leaves on citrus fruits begin to fall off.

In the period from November to February, when cultures are in a dormant period, a special regime is introduced - low temperature air in the room, the absence of any water procedures(spraying and watering) and fertilizing.

Air humidity

The humidity level must be high. You can maintain it with daily spraying, the water temperature should not be below 25 degrees. Citrus plants endure dry indoor air painfully.

Watering

Not recommended for irrigation tap water, the presence of chlorine in it will negatively affect pets. Irrigation water (with a temperature of 20-22 degrees) should be settled and slightly acidified. To do this, add a few drops of vinegar to it.

Pot selection

The ideal pot material is unglazed fired clay or wood. Be sure to have drainage holes and a good drainage layer at the bottom of the flower container.

Soil composition requirements

Indoor citrus fruits will fully develop only in a special substrate for this type of plant. quality soil mixture it is recommended to purchase only in specialized stores for flower growers, so that its quality is not in doubt.

Top dressings and fertilizers

Exotic citrus plants need to be fed regularly from February to November. Can be used organic fertilizers or mineral with nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus content.

Lemons, tangerines, oranges and other exotics can be propagated by seeds, cuttings and grafts. Every grower dreams of growing an exotic citrus from an ordinary bone, which will not only sprout and sprout, but will eventually turn into a small tree and give many fruits.

Growing citrus fruits from seed, from the very beginning life path strengthens the plant's immunity and increases resistance to life. After all, a tender young culture has to adapt to unusual conditions of existence for it from the very first days. Usually, there are no big problems with seed germination, but flowering and fruiting will have to be expected from 7 to 15 years. Taste qualities fruits also leave much to be desired. In order for the culture to bloom much earlier, you will need to be vaccinated. Usually experienced growers and gardeners recommend using cuttings of citrus fruits that are already bearing fruit as a scion.

When growing exotic crops in room conditions It must be taken into account that plants can reach high altitude. It is better to immediately purchase seeds for planting dwarf species and varieties.

Reproduction by seeds

It is recommended to plant freshly harvested seeds taken directly from the fruit. Planting depth - no more than 3 cm. The planting container should hold a volume of about 2 liters with obligatory drainage holes at the bottom. Drainage is poured at the bottom, and then a special substrate for citrus fruits. Cover the pot after planting glass jar or film to create greenhouse conditions in which shoots will appear much earlier. Depending on the variety and type of crop, seedlings will appear in the range from 7 days to 2 months. If several sprouts appeared from one seed, then over time it is necessary to leave only one stronger and stronger plant.

Reproduction by cuttings

For rooting, you need to take apical cuttings and plant them in a wet river sand at a slight slope, covering the top of the cropped plastic bottle from transparent material. Favorable temperature for root formation is 20-25 degrees. The place should be well lit, but protected from direct sunlight. The first roots may appear in about a month, after which the plant is transplanted into a special soil mixture. When transplanting, it is necessary to take care of the root part, as it can be easily damaged.

This method is considered the most common, because it allows you to save all the best quality characteristics. mother plant. Flowering and fruiting occurs much earlier than with seed propagation.

Graft

Grafting can be done by budding or copulation. Scion and rootstock can be from different types citrus fruits. It is recommended to use lemon, orange or grapefruit for rootstock.

Diseases and pests

Possible pests of citrus fruits as indoor crops are aphids, spider mite, shield, mealybug, possible diseases - anthracnose, warty and gummosis. Emerging diseases are difficult to treat, so you need to try to prevent them. At the first signs of the disease, it is recommended to "help" the plants. This help consists in the urgent removal of the affected leaves, buds and fruits, then the plant will direct all its forces to recovery and the preservation of healthy parts.

The main and most common cause of diseases and pests is a violation of the conditions of detention and care rules. With increased attention to pets and strict observance of their requirements and preferences, such a danger does not threaten.

Conditions for growing citrus fruits (video)

It often happens that the citrus plant you bought, when you brought it home from the nursery, sheds not only fruits and ovaries, but even leaves. When moving from a store or greenhouse to an apartment, citrus fruits can shed their leaves because the familiar climate is changing. But, when the plant gets used to the house, it should start to grow new leaves. If you don’t see new leaves, you may be making one of the most common mistakes.

Let's see what the tricks of caring for citrus houseplants are.

Citrus fruits do not like permutations: no need to move the plant from place to place. The citrus pot does not need to be rotated 180 or 90 degrees at once. In this case, the leaves turn yellow and fall off, the plant may die. Every 10 days you need to turn the pot 10 degrees (no more).

Citrus fruits do not tolerate drafts.

The pot must be right size! Plants are not planted "for growth", and this applies not only to citrus fruits. If planted small plant immediately into a large tub, its leaves will turn yellow and fall off. Moreover, a large pot increases the likelihood of a bay (which citruses do not like very much).

Can't bet citrus fruits nearby with microwave.

Plants can suffer from improper feeding and transplanting. Citrus fruits do not prefer transplanting, but transshipment!

In summer, plants feel great on the balcony, in the garden.

Fruiting lemons, tangerines, and other citrus fruits usually also bloom profusely at the same time, which leads to a weakening of the tree. Flowers need to be thinned out, leaving larger ones, on which the ovary is better developed. Of the ovaries, it is better to leave those that are located on short (rather than long) branches. On long fruits grow more slowly.

It takes several months for the fruit to ripen. There can be a lot of ovaries, the plant will shed the extra ones. This is normal.

If you bought citrus in winter

If a plant with fruits was bought by you in the winter, it will certainly shed all the fruits, and then some of the leaves (or even all the leaves). When buying citrus fruits in winter, it is better to immediately remove all the fruits, remove the emerging flowers.

If you over-moisten the soil in winter time, it will turn sour, citrus leaves in this case turn yellow and fall off.

Buy citrus trees with fruits is not recommended, it is better to choose a flowering tree. If you still bought a tree with fruits:

  • pluck all fruits
  • branches that had fruits, shorten by half
  • spray more often
  • the soil should always be moist (but not flooded)

When is it time to transplant?

It is better not to rush with a transplant!

If the roots have come out of the drain, this is not necessarily a reason to repot the plant. Need to push back upper layer ground: if the earthen ball is wrapped around with many roots on top, grab the stem, tilt the pot a little and try to pull out the earthen ball by lightly tapping on the bottom of the pot. If the lump comes out of the pot easily, the plant needs a transplant. It is better to spend it in the spring, not earlier than mid-February. In autumn and winter, it is better not to touch the plant.

If the earth ball is not strongly entwined with roots, a transplant will not be needed until next spring.

As a drainage - expanded clay 1.5-2 cm thick, pour on the bottom of the pot.

If the citrus does not feel well in winter, it is better not to replant it, but to do otherwise: remove a couple of centimeters of the upper soil, fill in the prepared soil from under the oak (it must be prepared in the summer, taking it in the forest, grove). Citrus fruits after such a procedure begin to look much better. In general, citrus fruits are very fond of oak soil, they can be transplanted into it. Or buy citrus primer from the store. In fresh nutrient soil citrus fruits develop good root system, which is required after plant transplantation.

Watering

Citrus fruits do not like chlorine, so water for irrigation must be defended. It is important not to over-moisten the soil when watering.

Citrus fruits love watering with settled water, to which vinegar is added (a few drops per liter).

Citrus fruits love spraying. Sometimes you can use a weak solution of potassium permanganate for spraying, the plants will be healthier.

What to do if citrus is poured. How to save a plant?

It is very undesirable to pour citrus fruits. But if this still happened and the roots began to rot, the plant can be helped.

  • remove the plant from the pot, soak in water until the earth ball is wet, wash off the soil
  • cut off all rotten roots to a healthy part, soak the root system in a heteroauxin solution for 5-6 hours
  • now the plant can be planted in soil with a high content of baking powder (add perlite, sand, vermiculite to the soil), heavy soil is not suitable, drainage of 2-3 cm is required

    the root neck should be 2-3 cm below the edge of the pot

  • pour with a solution of heteroauxin, put on the crown plastic bag, ventilate once a day, after a week spray the crown with a solution of zircon, pour it over the ground
  • water carefully, waiting for the earthen clod to dry to a depth of 3-4 cm

Citrus (like most other plants) is better to underfill than overfill, the surface layer of the soil should dry out.

top dressing

Citrus fruits, like other plants, need regular feeding. In stores, you can find top dressing for these types of plants, or take universal ones.

Nitrogen provides rapid growth, the leaves acquire a rich green color.

Phosphorus helps to start bearing fruit faster, it is needed for the ripening of fruits and the growth of young wood.

The growth of young leaves, shoots, fruits depends on potassium. With a lack of potassium, citrus fruits acquire an ugly shape and often fall off before they have time to ripen. Potassium supplements help increase resistance to various diseases.

For dressing citrus fruits, you can use:

  • manure (100 g of manure per liter of water; use a two-week infusion)
  • eggshell (two-week infusion in water)
  • ash (the best is from potato tops, sunflowers or straw), 1 tablespoon per liter of water
  • silt (150-200 g per liter of water)

Variegated citrus fruits

Variegated citrus fruits are more capricious and require more careful care than green-leaved ones. But they - a rarity(you will be very lucky if you find such a plant on sale), they are preferred by those who love exotic houseplants.



They need more light, but they can suffer from burns in direct sun.

Choose fertilizers for variegated leaves with low nitrogen content.

Variegation is more noticeable if the plant is grown in cool conditions.

Required high humidity(requires spraying).

Sometimes just green shoots (and even white ones) can grow on variegated plants, they need to be removed so that they do not drown out the variegated ones.

Organize your home tropics - plant indoor citrus plants. They diversify the interior and delight with delicious juicy fruits.

These plants have a special charm, because for us they are a manifestation of something exotic. IN middle lane You will not see Russian citrus fruits on the street or in the park; this beauty is available only indoors. Yes, and here they show their rather capricious disposition, and above all this concerns wintering. It is this period for lemon-oranges that is the most difficult, not everyone can survive it. What do citrus fruits need in general and in winter in particular?

Lighting

The number one task is to provide the plants with sufficient lighting, because they are very photophilous (they should only be protected from the midday summer sun).

The most optimal is to place exotics on the southeast or southwest windows, and in the summer - in the garden, under the light shade of trees. In winter, it is desirable to provide "pets" with additional intense lighting so that the daylight hours are at least 12 hours. If there is not enough light, the plant, alas, will not be able to fully develop.

For the summer, it is advisable to take citrus plants into the garden and be sure to put them on sunny place.

Cool wintering

Second condition good growth bright exotics - a decrease in temperature in winter to 12-16 C. In the absence of a cool wintering, citrus fruits usually do not live longer than 3-4 years, they gradually become exhausted and die. Rest of southerners lasts from November to February. In early - mid-February, when the day begins to increase, most citrus crops wake up and grow.

Winter Garden or a greenhouse heated to 3-12 ° C - ideal places for wintering calamondin:

And clementine:

The fruits hang on branches all winter and begin to ripen only by spring.

Watering

Harvest is impossible, and the life of plants as a whole is impossible without correct mode glaze. Too long breaks between waterings should not be allowed, during which the “pets” suffer either from an excess of moisture, or from a lack. “Water” citrus representatives of the flora should be so that the substrate in the pots never dries out and is moderately moistened to the very bottom.

During the period of active growth in spring and summer, especially in dry and hot weather, this means that the watering can should be taken daily! In winter, it is necessary to check every 2-3 days how wet the substrate is, and if necessary, water the exotic.

Pest control

If you water your plants properly, they don't get stressed. And this is very important, since this negative factor reduces the resistance of your pets to attacks by pests such as spider mites and scale insects. Fight them with special means protection for residential use. Later, you can safely use the fruits for food, because active ingredients tend to disintegrate within a few weeks. But a healthy plant, which is properly watered and weekly from March to October (the rest of the time 2 times a month) is fed with fertilizers for citrus fruits, is able to resist enemies on its own.

Black plaque is a consequence of the vital activity of scale insects. Pests secrete a sticky secret on which the soot fungus settles. To get rid of adversity, spray the plant with this solution: dilute 20 ml of vodka in 1 liter of water and liquid soap. Wipe the leaves with a soft cloth.

And another one good news: care for all citrus fruits plants, regardless of species and variety, by and large little different. Once you figure it out, you can literally reap even the most exotic fruits, such as citron.

Such different citrus fruits

At citron, or zest (Citrus medica), the largest fruits among citrus fruits. An essential oil is obtained from the peel, which is used to flavor drinks, confectionery and culinary products.

Poncirus three-leafed(Poncirus trifoliata) is one of the most cold-resistant representatives of citrus fruits: it can withstand temperatures as low as -20°C. You can harvest its beautiful, but not juicy fruits from September.

Common lemon (Citrus limon) ‘Variegata’- a real delight for both the eyes and the stomach. The pulp of its striped fruits is very juicy and pleasantly sour in taste.

Lemons ripen all year round. Therefore, you can pluck organic fruits whenever you feel like it and use them along with the zest.

Buddha hand- this is the name of the citron (Citrus medica) ‘Digitata’, the fruits of which are distinguished by a bizarre shape and a very fragrant peel.

Oranges (Citrus sinensis), such as varieties ‘Ovale Calabrese’, taste sweet, even if they grew in our latitudes.

Oranges (Citrus sinensis)' Vainiglia’ particularly delicate taste.

Fortunella oval, or kumquat, or golden orange (Fortunella margarita), leaves no one indifferent: some simply adore it, while others experience real disgust.

After all, its small fruits are eaten whole, that is, the zest is not removed. Their peel is sweet, and their flesh is sour - together they form an incomparable combination.

Not everyone can afford

Wealthy aristocrats have already XVII century cultivated southern citrus plants for their own needs, as well as wanting to surprise their guests with rare fruits. For bright heat-loving exotics, greenhouses were built: rooms with big windows, later - whole buildings made of glass, which were heated with firewood, which was very expensive.

Especially popular with collectors orange (Citrus aurantium), or bitter orange (until now, citrus fans and gourmets especially appreciate the 'Fasciata' orange with bright yellow-orange striped fruits). By the way, the classic English orange jam is made from the pulp and strips of orange zest.

    • When to prune citrus fruits?



The secateurs can be taken from March to August, shortening too long shoots. Trimming the tops of the shoots makes the crown thicker and stimulates the formation of fruits.
  • Why do citrus fruits often shed a lot of ovaries?
Young plants are not able to "feed" all the fruits until they are fully ripe. That is why they shed extra ovaries. This is a completely natural process, because then the remaining fruits grow to normal sizes and become the most fragrant.
  • By what signs can you determine that the fruits are ripe?
If the fruit is slightly scrolled, a fully ripe fruit will easily separate from the branch. You need to make an effort to tear it off. It's too early to shoot.
  • What to do if a citrus plant does not want to bloom?
For the formation of flowers, the tub with the "pet" for the summer must be taken out into the garden and placed in a sunny place. By the way, citrus fruits bloom and bear fruit from the age of 4.

Instruction

orchard the apartment looks attractive. Citrus fruits bloom with beautiful, exotic, fragrant flowers. Their fruits are quite bright, and the foliage itself serves as an interior decoration. Don't expect a huge harvest. But feast on exotic fruits grown on a windowsill is quite possible.

You can buy a ready-made seedling in a store, but more often citrus fruits are grown from seeds or cuttings. Seeds - longer, but more interesting. You can observe its development from a tiny sprout to the moment of flowering and fruiting.

Grow citrus fruits in large containers. Plastic containers are best suited - they are light and convenient. A prerequisite is the presence of drainage holes. Drainage is poured into the bottom of the container - expanded clay, polystyrene, pebbles. Then - the soil mixture for citrus. And they plant pre-sprouted bones or transplant trees bought in a store.

All citrus fruits need bright but diffused light. It is best to grow them on the southern and eastern windowsills, and in the summer in the heat - shade. Citrus fruits are not as demanding on temperature and humidity as many people think they are. I'm normal enough room temperature+20…22°C and periodic spraying of leaves.

The frequency of watering citrus fruits depends on the season. In winter it is less intense. The more leaves a plant has, the more moisture it needs. During the period of flowering and fruit set, the watering rate also increases. In indoor citrus fruits, it is often necessary to loosen the soil. They need constant aeration of the roots.

Fertilizers indoor citrus need more than their "brothers" in open field hot countries. In the substrate bought in the store, nutrients enough for two months. Therefore, it is necessary regular feeding especially in spring and summer. You should not get carried away with nitrogen fertilizers - they will cause an abundant leaf mass to the detriment of fruiting. For citrus fruits, a complete balanced complex of trace elements is suitable.

Earth.

In practice, over the years it has become clear that the land does not have such a great influence on the cultivation of citrus fruits. Light, heat and humidity have the greatest influence; in comparison with them, the composition of the earth does not have significant significance. The purpose of the substrate in a flowerpot is to create sufficient conditions for the roots of plants to take water, nutrients and air in a small space.

In short, when growing citrus fruits, you can be guided by the rules:

1. The flowerpot should not be large. Land not used by the roots, especially wet, is the cause of rot and turns sour. The plant withers, sheds leaves. (My experience - I planted a small lemon in a 15-liter flowerpot. It stood on the veranda all summer - under the wind, rain, sun, even hail broke the leaves. I watered it quite plentifully, with the addition of a weak infusion of chicken manure. So I watched the plant and gave him what he lacks. The lemon became so strong, big - everyone was surprised. Not in a scientific way, but it is so. And in small flowerpots everything is according to science, and growth is also small).

2. The abundance of water is harmful to the plant. Good drainage is needed. When transplanting a plant, we choose a flowerpot in size a couple of centimeters larger. The shape of the flowerpot should be such that the root who was spacious and he easily "slip" out of the flowerpot when needed (my experience is that the same plant in a large flowerpot does not need to be replanted, the plant is not stressed: there is enough land, spacious and good) .

3. Between waterings, let the soil dry out (do not dry out). The water temperature should be 2 degrees higher than the air temperature. If the temperature of the substrate and irrigation water differ by more than 8 degrees - the plant gets stressed, sheds flowers and fruits. The same is true when spraying a plant.
In a small pot, it is good to “drink” the plant with water by immersing it, along with the leaves, in a bowl of water. When the bubbles stop coming, pull out the flowerpot, let the water drain and put it in the pan. If watering directly into the flowerpot, it is important to water at the edges of the flowerpot to moisten the roots that are near the walls of the flowerpot. Drain the water that drains after watering into the pan after an hour. If water quickly flows through the substrate during irrigation, it means that the soil of the plant is dangerously dry, and the flowerpot must be placed all with the leaves of the plant in a bowl of water.

Growing a plant in an apartment, you need to spray it every day (but not in the sun). Drying is very dangerous for young plant. But even if it drops all the leaves, you don’t need to throw it away, the leaves can grow back. A moistened bag is applied to the plant, and the leaves will not keep you waiting. The plant through the leaves well accepts not only water, but also fertilizers. If there is any doubt - whether it is necessary to water or not yet - it is better to spray the plant, adding not only fertilizers, but also pesticides to the water if necessary (only not in the evening and not in the sun).

Watering, of course, depends on the growing conditions and vegetation. Lemon is ideally placed outdoors, where the plant enjoys dew, fog, raindrops. The plant loves it. And also for practice - sometimes the plant is poured and water flows over the edge of the pan; to prevent this from happening, you can water through the pan and pour as much water into it as the plant sucks. If necessary, this procedure can be repeated after several waterings. Some flower growers by this contribute to the cultivation of roots that need to reach the water (my experience is to water only with rain or melt water and always with a small amount of those fertilizers that the plant "requests").

4. Vases. Clay containers are breathable, but they dry out quickly. Plastic retains moisture, but does not allow air to pass through. Wooden containers have both positive properties, but they are short-lived.
The roots of the plant breathe air that passes through the bottom of the flowerpot, so the drainage of the flowerpot is mandatory, and no water should remain in the pan after watering. The flowerpot is selected according to the size of the plant, the composition of the substrate, and the place where it will stand (the black flowerpot heats up in the sun). In a large plastic flowerpot, you will have to drill side holes so that the plant can breathe (my experience is that I did not drill holes in a large flowerpot; however, I periodically stick thin wooden sticks into the flowerpot).

If you use a wooden flowerpot, you can not process it chemical compounds. Best processed with linseed oil mixed with ash and crushed charcoal. A clay flowerpot dries quickly in the sun, and salt clogs the walls of the flowerpot, which prevents air from passing through them. But an earthenware pot prevents the roots from rotting when the plant is poured, as in plastic flowerpot; in addition, if the flowerpot will not stand on the balcony, it can be buried in the ground in the garden.

The roots of the plant eventually rest against the walls of the flowerpot. In wooden flowerpots, it is these thin roots that suffer from drying out - then the edges of the leaves dry (this is often the reason for the drying of the edges of the leaves). When growing citrus fruits, flower growers most often use square containers - they save space, provide a microclimate (next to standing plants protect each other from overheating, loss of moisture, it is convenient to spray the leaves). In large flowerpots, the top layer of the earth is periodically replaced. Any flowerpots should be protected from sunlight.

A place.

Choosing a place for citrus fruits is one of the important tasks. In an apartment, it is dangerous to put a plant on the windowsill both in winter and in summer. In winter, batteries are heated, and they are most often located under the windowsill. Cold air from a window cools the substrate and roots, causing them to rot. Dry and warm room air dries the leaves, and we water the plant more often. Where the plant stands, you need to cover the batteries with something or put a humidifier. The flowerpot must be raised so that its bottom does not cool.

Lemon is a plant that loves a warm and fairly sunny place; loves the greenhouse. (My experience is that after spring and until autumn frosts, lemons stand on open space- steps of the veranda). When there are cold nights in autumn or the temperature difference between day and night is large, I cover the plants with agrofilm for the night. They stand on the south side of the house, covered from the north by a wall. Citrus fruits are very resilient if taught from an early age, you just have to look at the leaves - they show the problems the plant has.
When a plant is taken outside after winter, it is necessary to gradually accustom it to open sunlight - out of habit, there may be burns on the leaves.

Light.

Sufficient lighting intensity is one of the essential conditions citrus growth. Lack of light can affect the absorption of water by the plant. There are plants of "long" and "short" days, citrus fruits are neutral.
Still, problems are revealed in winter - you need to lower the temperature and water, otherwise the plant begins to grow unhealthy: due to a lack of light, the branches stretch out, the leaves become smaller. This is a problem for apartments. The plant, although growing, may later shed its leaves and even die, having lost too much reserve energy. The only way out is to find a balance between watering, air humidity, temperature and lighting. That's when additional lighting may be needed. By the way, direct lighting is not necessary for citrus fruits, they are good in diffused bright light, but they cannot tolerate long shadows.
In the summer, when the plants are on the street, at noon it is sometimes necessary to cover them and make a temporary shadow from the intense rays of the sun.

Temperature.

Beginning amateur citrus growers often imagine that in their homeland citrus fruits grow in very warm conditions that we cannot create. It's true - citrus fruits love warmth in our climatic conditions catch every ray of sunshine. Still, on native plantations, the average annual temperature is 16-18 degrees, the average temperature of fruit ripening is 9-15 degrees. In places of natural cultivation, the average temperature of the coldest month is 7-14 degrees.

So what temperature is acceptable in our conditions? Citrus fruits are hardy, in the absence of flowers or fruits for a short time (up to 3 hours) can be in sub-zero temperature, as well as up to 50 degrees of heat (this can happen in a greenhouse or on a windowsill). It certainly slows down plant development, and with a longer exposure can destroy them. Just as the temperature difference between the irrigation water and the substrate of 8 degrees can lead the plant into a state of shock, so fast transfer plants from a dark place to bright light - from the house under the direct rays of the sun - can destroy the plant.

Temperature influence:

Vegetation and cultivation of fruits: 22-24 degrees;
- Flowering: 14-16 degrees;
- Fruit flower set: 22-24 degrees
- The ovaries fall off at a temperature of 30 degrees;
- Fruit ripening: 14-18 degrees;
- Seed germination: 20-25 degrees;
- Wintering: 5-10 degrees;
- Active spring growth: 12 degrees;
- Growth stops below 12 degrees and above 38 degrees;
- The water temperature for watering and spraying citrus fruits should be 1-2 degrees higher than the substrate temperature (if the water is 8 degrees warmer or colder than the substrate, the plant will get stressed);
- The air temperature should be 1-3 degrees higher than that of the substrate.

Transpiration.

Transpiration is the evaporation of moisture by a plant through its leaves; 98% of the water passing through the plant is used for transpiration. This is of great importance when growing citrus fruits. The leaves of the plant must be clean, free of dust, not sprayed with leaf gloss, etc. At high temperature and wind, the intensity of moisture evaporation increases by 6 times compared to normal weather. Sometimes, it would seem, all the conditions have been created for the plant, and it begins to shed its leaves. One of the reasons is the failure of the balance of fluid passage in the plant.
Air humidity at 22-24 degrees: 60-70%;
Humidity in winter: 40-50%.
Water should be soft, without chlorine. Ideal - soft fresh rainwater (it contains air, slightly acidic, pH 6-6.5). Pure rain water collected 15 minutes after the start of rain.

A few tips for growing citrus fruits in an apartment.

Many examples show that growing citrus fruits at home is quite possible. Of course, more attention should be paid to them, especially in winter. All the problems of citrus fruits when grown in an apartment increase significantly, but citrus fruits tend to adapt.

In the apartment you can grow citrus fruits:

A whole year;
- take out into the air;
- if you find a place for wintering (about 10 degrees).

The positive side is that plants are less prone to fungal diseases, because fungi do not like dry air, unless we ourselves bring these diseases home from somewhere.
In apartments, the temperature is too high (sometimes the same day and night), low humidity - this is also harmful for a person. When caring for plants, it is desirable to bring the air humidity up to 60%, this is useful for plants and humans.
All citrus fruits need winter holidays at low temperature. In an apartment, plants go into a dormant period due to a lack of light intensity, which can kill the plants. Wintering takes place in a cool place (10 degrees) with minimal watering, because the dormant roots do not accept moisture and will begin to rot. The leaves are sometimes sprayed. Wintering conditions depend on the type of citrus.

For three months, citrus fruits can be kept in a dark room - in the basement, garage, stairwell, etc. (this applies to strong and healthy plants; for amateur citrus growers, this can be difficult, because it will be difficult to control the plants).

In a cold room, when the plants hibernate, watering and spraying stop, as at low temperatures they have enough moisture from the air. Of course, the fertilization also stops. Do not leave plants for the winter in places of chemical fumes. When checking plants, they should not be allowed to dry out.

Warm winter.

If the plant hibernates in a warm room - put it in the brightest place, reduce watering. We shorten the young unripened branches, since in the spring they will still be lost, and in the winter they will bother the plant.
Isolate the plant from batteries; we organize everything in such a way that warm air currents do not reach the plant. We also protect the plant from cold air currents; a cold flowerpot and dry warm leaves will lead to the death of the plant.

In winter, we spray the plant through the leaves more intensively than we water. The solution can be made slightly nutritious.

Plants in winter spend more resources than they can take. If they grow, they stretch out, because they want to receive more light and moisture. We have to do additional lighting.

In the spring we add moisture when we see that the plant is waking up; little by little we start feeding.

Citrus fruits do not like the same temperature at night and during the day. At night, you need to either ventilate the room, or turn off the heating. All the same, these are unnatural conditions for citrus fruits - high wintering temperatures and dry air.
In winter, it is not the overdrying of the substrate that is more dangerous, but the general decrease in plant fluids. If the leaves of citrus fruits begin to dry out in winter, do not rush to water the plant, as the resting roots will begin to rot. All attention should be focused on the humidity of the air, spraying and spraying water around the plant. You can put the plant in an aquarium or next to another plant (but not on another flowerpot), you can fix a plastic bag over the plant.

Landing-transplant.

Transplantation is an inevitable process, after which we look at the plant as a critical patient, for which any stress can turn into death.
Young citrus fruits are transplanted every year or every other year, older - less and less. The older the plant, the more transplant stress it has.
For adult plants, the top layer of the earth is changed, and, while it is possible, it would be good to change the lateral earth as well (by picking up a larger flowerpot). The new substrate should be nutritious, it is advisable to add rotted manure to it.
Seedlings of citrus dive when the first pair of leaves appears.

Citrus fruits are transplanted in early spring before the start of the growing season (during the dormant period). Then the plant is brought into a lighter and warmer room, gradually increasing heat and light. When the first signs of growth appear, increase moisture and only then fertilize.

If the plant will overwinter in the warmth, you can transplant it in the fall, if the ground is warm enough and rooting will occur before November. Summer transplant possible only without damage to the root ball, between two periods of growth; then keep the plant in the shade. In winter, citrus fruits can be transplanted with the destruction of an earthy coma, since the roots are inactive at this time; this is unacceptable for plants without leaves, at temperatures below 12 degrees.
Plants are transplanted if they are bought in a store and if necessary (diseases, clogging of the earth, etc.) at any time, after transplanting, taking all measures to save the plants.

The rules for transplanting citrus fruits are the same as for other plants. If the roots are damaged, they are disinfected. Planting is done in a moist substrate, as the plant is watered only the next day. When transplanting, a certain amount is necessarily left on the roots. old earth, as bacteria live in it, contributing to the absorption of nutrients by the roots. If this is not possible, you need to take some earth from the flowerpot of another citrus.
The plant is planted at the same level, preventing the base of the neck from falling asleep. After transplantation, the plant is shaded; other conditions do not need to be changed so that there is no stress. Citruses need quite a lot of attention; mistakes are not easy to fix. The critical period after transplantation is 6 months.

If the volume of roots decreases during transplantation, we take a smaller flowerpot. Then we cut the crown in proportion to the roots. Pruning the crown does not harm even with minor damage to the roots.
If, after transplantation, unwanted branches with leaves appear in the plant - let them grow, let the plant breathe - this contributes to the growth of roots. They can be cut later.

Pruning.

If we want to get good harvest, cut citrus necessarily.
The main thing is to prune often so that pruning is moderate. And keep in mind that the brains must work faster than the hands.
The rules for pruning citrus fruits are similar to those for pruning fruit trees. There may be different purposes of pruning, so there will be a difference in timing and methods. The main goal is to form a crown and keep the plant in good shape. Pruning is carried out during the life of the plant to rejuvenate it, stimulate the growth of lower branches, thin out the crown, when transplanting, to obtain a bountiful harvest, etc. The notion that pruning has a direct effect on yield is erroneous; it only rejuvenates the plant.

Fertilization and pruning are closely related. A well-fertilized plant needs less pruning and will yield more. On the other hand, pruning can reduce the yield so as not to overload the plant. With heavy pruning, the growth of citrus fruits slows down, so you need to find harmony between pruning and harvest. It also depends on the type of plant; Some citrus fruits tend to thicken their crowns.
You can consult a specialist about the features of pruning citrus fruits.

Fertilizer.

Fertilizer helps the plant grow, but it is not a way to “pump up” the plant in the hope of a miraculous result. Fertilizer is selected carefully so as not to harm the plant; especially since the plant has a rest period that can be disturbed.

General fertilizer rules:

Do not fertilize dry soil;
- Take into account the temperature, the growing season;
- Frequent watering or rain washes out the fertilizer.

The plant itself says what it needs. For this, there are many rules that flower growers with experience know. (If you spray a plant with beer, it not only feeds, it also glistens. Some citrus pests really dislike beer.)

Plants at permanent care usually feel pretty good. After transplantation, citrus fruits do not need to be fed for two months. Some citrus growers recommend feeding citrus fruits not only with beer, but also with the remains of coffee or tea. It is often impossible to feed a plant - overfeeding is more dangerous than not feeding.

Diseases.

It is known that a strong plant has good immunity. We must remember that by destroying pests, we also destroy living creatures, which help the plant to exist and defend itself. When spraying against pests, you can feed the plant through the leaves. If the pests can be picked up by hand, fine, but you can’t rub the leaves with a brush (only hard branches or a trunk). When spraying, first treat the underside of the leaf.

Health.

What are the benefits of citrus for health? Its smell kills bacteria and viruses; have a positive effect on the person essential oils. Plants, not only citrus fruits, absorb harmful secretions emitted by devices in the environment. Plants have a positive effect on the psyche and health of their loved ones.

So ... If we want to propagate our citrus fruits:
We sow citrus seeds and then graft, propagate citrus cuttings. If the plant does not bloom, you can graft a sprig of flowering citrus on it; fruits will be like those of the mother plant.
Citrus species are identified by their leaves.

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