What care for roses in summer. Protecting heat-loving roses by hilling How to spud roses for the winter except for the earth
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During the summer, roses need the most careful care: loosening, watering, fertilizing, adding soil (or hilling), pruning fading inflorescences, as well as protection from pests and diseases.
In case of soil compaction, after heavy rains or abundant watering and in a dry summer loosening is carried out to a depth of 5-8 cm at a distance of 15-20 cm from the bush, and the base of the bush is sprinkled with humus or well-weathered limed peat to a height of 10-12 cm.
In urban flower beds, you can sometimes find underdeveloped rose bushes with single flowers. This happens because ignorant gardeners in the spring, when plants are released from the ground, greatly expose root collar, and later, when watering from a hose with a beating jet, they wash off part of the soil and expose the base of the bush even more.
Root system dries up, and dormant buds at the base of the shoots do not awaken and do not give new strong flowering shoots. As a result, plants develop poorly and bloom poorly. Particularly affected are own-rooted polyanthus and hybrid-polyanthus roses, in which the entire active mass of roots is located in the upper soil layer at a depth of 15-20 cm.
In urban flower beds, where the layer of bulk soil is small (in best case 30-40 cm), and the construction of deep pits is difficult, grafted roses need to create conditions for the development of roots in the upper soil horizon.
This can be achieved by pouring (or hilling) nutrient soil to the base of the bush at least once or twice during the summer.
Rose observations in natural soils showed that with strong hilling throughout the summer in grafted tea-hybrid, polyanthic. hybrid-polyanthus and climbing roses, adventitious roots are formed on the stem part of the scion.
They have a thick lobe and are located at a depth of 10-20 cm. Hilling from year to year leads to the formation of a longline root system. The plant gradually moves to its own roots, grows well and blooms profusely, intensively using the upper layers of the soil.
At the same time, the roots of the stock still continue to function.
Bedding solves several issues of rose care at once, especially in urban conditions: it stimulates the formation of an adnexal root system, protects the root neck from drying out, helps to awaken the lower dormant buds from which flower stalks develop (in remontant and climbing roses, flowering of the next year depends on replacement shoots).
Land for bedding must be taken from the side. It is impossible to replace the seed with hilling, since this reduces the layer of earth between the rows and this leads to the drying up of the root system, moving away from the bush of both the hilled and neighboring plants.
Abundant weekly watering(weekly in hot summer) promotes continuous growth and flowering of roses. It should be watered in the furrows around the bush so that the soil is moistened to a depth of at least 50 cm. After the water has been absorbed, the furrows are leveled and mulched (with humus or peat).
Feeding can be combined with watering organic and mineral fertilizers. It should be noted that during the fermentation of slurry, a lot of growth stimulant auxins that are useful for the plant are lost.
In the first half of summer, during budding, roses are fed with a liquid solution of fresh mullein (1:10), 10-15 g is added to one bucket ammonium nitrate, 25-30 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium salt.
After the first bloom when the buds of the second flowering are laid, the roses should also be fed, increasing the dose of ammonium nitrate to 20-25 g and superphosphate to 50-60 g per 1 bucket of solution.
Third top dressing give no later than the beginning of August, while reducing the dose of ammonium nitrate to 10-15 g and increasing the dose of potassium salt to 20-25 g per bucket of solution.
For the last feeding only superphosphate (50-60 g) and potassium (20-25 g per bucket of clean water) are included, which are necessary at this time in order to promote the ripening of faded shoots and delay the growth of new ones.
Withered flowers must be removed to encourage the development of new buds from the axils of the upper leaves of the flower shoots.
In the second half of August, loosening and watering should be stopped., and leave the set fruits on the plant. It also contributes to the maturation of the wood and better preparation plants for winter.
How to prepare roses for winter? For most cultivars of roses, temperatures below -7 ° C are considered critical, so we cover roses for the winter. What determines how successfully roses overwinter? Firstly, from the winter hardiness of a particular variety, it can be different within the same garden group. Secondly, on the state of the plant and its readiness for winter. Thirdly, from weather conditions. And, finally, from the ways of shelter. It is clear that not all of these factors are subject to human control. Therefore, flower growers should direct their main efforts to properly prepare for winter and cover the plant in a suitable way.
How to prepare roses for winter
We cannot influence the weather, but we can prepare the roses as much as possible for the upcoming winter trials. There are fairly simple agricultural practices that make rose shoots ripen better.
1. Feeding roses in autumn with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. As you know, nitrogen promotes the formation of a vegetative mass and delays the growth period. Therefore, from the second half of summer, fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers is excluded. In August and early autumn, roses are fed only with potash-phosphorus fertilizers, which stop growth, promote the maturation of wood and increase plant resistance to cold.
2. Pinching growing shoots in autumn. Another effective technique is pinching growing shoots in early autumn. Due to the removal of the growth point, the growth of the shoot in length stops, and useful material deposited in the kidneys and tissues.
3. Stop watering. Watering and loosening are also reduced to a minimum, and faded flowers are not cut off - for the same reason, so as not to stimulate further growth of shoots.
4. Removal of leaves and unripened shoots. In October, the leaves are gradually cut off, first on the lower, and then on the remaining branches, removing unripened shoots. The plant is deprived of natural respiration and the ability to feed through the leaves and is forced to prepare for winter.
5. Timely control of pests and diseases of roses. The stability of roses, as we have already said, largely depends on their condition at the time of the onset of frost. It is clear that a strong, healthy and hardened plant will better endure both sudden changes in temperature and cold. Rose bushes, which had good healthy foliage (not affected by insects and diseases) in summer and early autumn, accumulate a large supply of carbohydrates, and this contributes to their successful wintering.
6. Moderate pruning of roses. Excessive cutting of flowers with long leafy shoots weakens plants.
7. sunny place landing. Roses growing in the shade overwinter worse, because with a lack of lighting, they accumulate less carbohydrates. A slight decrease in temperature (slightly above 0°C) in mid-autumn, on the contrary, contributes to their accumulation.
Shelter of roses for the winter
Sheltering roses for the winter does not happen overnight. Before shelter, you need to have time to spud roses in two stages. At the same time, you should not rush so that the plants have time to go through all the biological processes of preparing for winter. Depending on the conditions in each particular region, choose suitable materials and methods of shelter, determine optimal timing. at the same time, it also has its own characteristics when sheltering climbing, stem, bush, miniature, hybrid tea and other types and groups of roses.
Materials and methods of sheltering roses for the winter
1. Snow to cover roses for the winter. The main covering material is snow, it is he who most reliably protects roses from frost. Everything else - spruce branches, foliage - serves only to detain him. At 25-30°C frosts under a layer of snow of 50-70 cm, the temperature does not fall below -4-5°C. Therefore, the shoots are bent to the ground so that they are necessarily covered with snow. With a small snow cover, you will have to throw it in extra. If the snow does not fall for a very long time, then the roses may die, despite all the efforts made. But in the case when a lot of snow falls from the very beginning of winter, and it lies without melting until spring, modern garden roses can winter without any additional shelter.
2. Spruce branches for sheltering roses for the winter. One of the simplest materials used to cover roses is a layer of spruce branches or dry foliage at least 10 cm thick. True, it is relatively reliable. mild winters. If there is no spruce branch, you can use oak leaves and plant residues that do not overripe over the winter.
3. Air-dry method of sheltering roses for the winter. More reliable way shelters of roses - air-dry. Frames 50-60 cm high are installed above the bushes, any insulating material is laid on top and on the side, for example, hydrothermal insulating paper, glassine, cardboard. Cover with plastic wrap. The end sides of the shelter are closed when the temperature drops below -10°C.
This method is called air-dry because with it the bushes are protected from penetration excess moisture, and a layer of air protects plants from hypothermia. This method is especially reliable in severe snowy winters. But only those who visit their site constantly or come to use it can use it. in early spring. With air-dry shelter already in March, roses need to be periodically ventilated.
Terms of shelter of roses for the winter
With further cooling (-2-8°C), the cells in the tissues of the plant are dehydrated, and carbohydrates are converted into sugars and fats - substances that protect plants from frost. That's why you can't cover roses too early - plants must go through all the natural processes, that is, finish growth in a timely manner and go into a dormant state.
But, unfortunately, hardening is a reversible process. Acquired resistance to frost may be lost again if, after a significant drop in temperature, a long warm and humid autumn suddenly sets in. Roses will start to grow and use up the accumulated reserves of carbohydrates, and if frosts hit hard after that, it will be difficult for plants to survive such drops.
Pruning roses for the winter
Target autumn pruning- prepare the bush for shelter. Shoots of hybrid tea, floribunda, polyanthus, miniature roses cut to half their length. Re-blooming shrub roses, climbing large-flowered growing season can reach a height of 1.5 m or more. At the end of October, they are cut by a third. Climbing small-flowered roses do not prune, only at the beginning of September they pinch the growth point.
If you have not cut off the leaves of the roses beforehand, do it just before the shelter. It is impossible to cover leafy plants, as the process of respiration and evaporation of water will continue. under cover high humidity can cause rotting not only of the leaves, but also of the shoots. Leaves rotted over the winter become disease spreaders.
To prevent fungal diseases, all leaves and cut branches must be removed from the flower beds and burned, and the plants should be treated with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture. Unripe, diseased and weak shoots will not tolerate low temperatures and can cause the death of the whole plant. They are removed to the ground.
Pruning roses for the winter in the suburbs (video)
For information on how to properly prune hybrid tea roses for the winter in the Moscow region, and which roses are not pruned, see the video. In October, it's time to prune roses for the winter. Pruning dates are suitable 1.5-2 weeks before the onset of stable frosts. In pruning hybrid tea and ground cover roses have their own characteristics. Pruning of large shoots, plantings of the current year is different.
Hilling roses before shelter for the winter
Hilling - best view root system protection. But, attention, the earth is not raked from the flower beds, as this would expose the roots of the plants, but they are sprinkled (this can be compost, humus or just loose earth). Hilling helps to keep the plant a large number of buds, and in the spring it will be possible to apply any method of pruning. The air temperature under such a reliable earthen shelter (even in the absence of snow cover) remains much higher for some time than outside.
1. When to spud roses for the winter. With hilling roses for the winter, as well as with shelter, you should also not rush. It's best to do it in two steps. From mid-October, earth is lightly poured into the base of the shrubs to protect the plants from unexpected early frosts, and they are finally spudded before the onset of constant cold weather. It is better to cover and spud roses in dry weather.
2. How to spud roses for the winter. It is undesirable to use pure peat, sawdust or sand. They are very moisture-intensive, and with sharp fluctuations in temperature in winter, an ice crust can form around the roses. From its pressure on the bark of the plant, cracks will appear through which the infection will penetrate.
3. How to spud roses for the winter. Before sheltering, they dig up the soil under the roses (on the bayonet of a shovel), trying not to damage the roots. shoots climbing roses you need to bend to the ground and lay on a layer of spruce branches. In order not to break powerful plants, the bushes are dug up on one side and laid, pinning the shoots to the ground. Then the bushes are spudded - or rather, they pour a mound of dry earth at least 30 cm high to the base of the bush. hybrid tea roses And floribunda as a result, they are almost completely covered with earth. In spray roses (after they are bent to the ground), the base of the bush is spudded, and shoots can be sprinkled with earth. In addition, the soil between the rows can be covered with a layer of old straw manure, crushed bark or rotted foliage. When the earth freezes slightly (in the middle lane, as a rule, at the end of October - in the first decade of November), the roses are completely covered.
Shelter of roses for the winter in the suburbs (video)
For information on how to cover roses for the winter in where there are cold snowless winters with freezing rain, look at the grower and collector rare plants. Roses cover gradually in several stages. First, in October (from about the second decade), a frame is built from boards and beams. Roses are pruned and spud. If the kidneys of the next year are visible, then an oblique cut is made above the kidney, retreating 2 mm. climbing roses first try to put under cover. Only in the event that the rose does not bend, it is cut off. Open sections are not only a source of infection, but also a gateway to frost and cold, so they are covered with artificial bark.
Until the final shelter, the frame is covered from the top with a flexible sheet of plywood or similar material from the rain. Such a frame with a "roof" is kept until the onset of stable cold weather, when night and day temperatures fall below 5 ° C of frost. During short-term frosts, roses can be temporarily covered with a non-woven fabric, and then opened again when it gets warmer so that the roses harden.
When the cold comes, the roses are covered under the frame. Easy to use cutouts nonwoven fabric with a density of at least 60 g/m². Cardboard is laid on top of the non-woven - it protects well from the wind and retains heat inside the shelter. The steps are repeated: 2 layers of non-woven fabric are laid on cardboard, cardboard again on top. The final shelter is a film. The film protects against freezing rains, which are not uncommon in winter in the Moscow region. Such a shelter has proven itself in cold, snowless winters. It is important to open roses on time and correctly after winter shelter.
Shelter of a standard rose for the winter
You need to take care of shelter even when they land. That is, immediately determine in which direction they can be bent so that the stem does not lie, for example, on the track. In order not to break the trunk, the fold at its base should be on the side opposite to the slope. It is impossible to lay the crown of the bole below the soil level, since water will accumulate in the lowland during thaws or in spring, the shoots will get wet and rot.
Stages of sheltering a standard rose for the winter:
- at the stem, the crown is pre-cut (in accordance with its belonging to the garden group);
- the plant is dug up on one side, bent to the ground and the root is spudded, if necessary, pinned;
- spruce branches are laid under the crown of the stem or bedding is made of coarse-grained sand;
- another layer of spruce branches is laid on top, fixing it with a film or non-woven material;
- for greater reliability, you can lightly sprinkle with earth on top.
The first thing to do to protect roses is to spud all the bushes until the moment when frosts begin at night and the temperature drops below -3 ° C. If these frosts have already been noted, then hilling roses is prohibited. Otherwise, it will cause the plants to die. In such a situation, it is only allowed to use air-dry shelters to protect spray roses in winter.
Before hilling, it is necessary to remove all leaves from the lower parts of the shoots and spray them with Bordeaux or Burgundy liquid (its 1-2% solution is used).
It is necessary to start hilling in mid-September (in the northwestern part of Russia) with such land in which there are no residues of inorganic origin that have not decomposed. The size of the bushes directly affects the height of earthen mounds. If the roses are undersized, then they are spud up to 10 centimeters in height, if they are tall, then up to 35 centimeters.
In order not to accidentally expose the root system of plants, you can not take the land that is located next to the bushes. You need to bring it from somewhere else. In the spring, after rocking out, this land is used to sprinkle the soil around each bush, and this must be done once a year.
In the event that there is no land of the required quality, there is the option of hilling needles with sawdust, sand or peat. But the results from the use of such materials will be worse. If hilling is carried out early, this will not affect the development of plants and their decorative effect. Their normal vegetative growth and flowering continues.
After the steady cold begins, and the earth freezes up to 6 centimeters deep, the roses are completely covered. Before starting it, the tops of all shoots are cut off with a pruner so that the resulting hemp can be completely covered with insulation material. If the bushes are tall, then they are cut at a height of 25 cm from the level of the soil itself, and for undersized bushes - in accordance with the length that their shoots have.
If pruning is carried out in autumn, then the work of sheltering roses becomes much easier, and this is in contrast to the previously used practice, when the shoots were bent to the ground and pinned. Today, the previously existing opinion that cut roses do not winter well has been completely refuted.
Also, pruning in the fall helps to heal plants if they are affected by fungi, since spores of wintering mushrooms are also removed along with the harvested shoots.
Those leaves that remain after pruning on the shoots must be completely removed and taken out of the rose garden, and then destroyed if they are already affected by diseases. If the shoots of plants are healthy, then they are used in order to propagate plants.
It is necessary to carefully sweep away the snow that has already fallen on the frozen ground, and proceed to the actual shelter of the plants. If the shelter takes place using peat or leaves, then it is necessary to first spread the spruce branches around all the bushes so that the needles “look” outward and prevent all kinds of rodents from penetrating the roses. If plants are insulated with pine needles, such protection with spruce branches is not required, since the sawdust is very prickly, and mice cannot make moves in them.
It is necessary to pour materials for insulation on previously hilled bushes so that there is an elevation in the center, and melt water flows calmly from such a shelter.
The outer border of the shelter should be behind the bushes at a distance of up to 60 centimeters. This is very important when, in a harsh, little snowy winter, it is necessary to protect the roots of roses from freezing.
After the plants are covered, it is necessary to immediately cover the material for insulation with a film. To prevent it from being blown away, be sure to press all the edges with the help of rails and other heavy objects. When laying the film, you must be careful and make sure that not a single stump sticks out above the insulation material. Otherwise, they will pierce the film when it settles under the load of snow that has fallen on it.
If there are such hemp, then they should be cut off or another layer of material for insulation should be placed. The film can be replaced by another material that is moisture resistant - roofing felt, roofing material or otherwise. It is important that the insulation material is completely dry until spring. It is on this that the successful preservation of roses depends.
The thickness of the protection layer depends on how thermally conductive the protection material is, what the weather is like at the beginning of winter, and where the rose garden is located.
If sawdust is used for insulation, then it is necessary to take into account the level of humidity. If sawdust was obtained in the process of sawing wood that was damp, then they contain a lot of water. Their ability to retain heat is half that of those that are completely dry. If a 30-cm layer of sawdust is poured, and it is -30 ° C outside, then a temperature of 1.5 ° C will remain in the upper level of the soil.
If the sawdust is raw, then in order to maintain exactly the same temperature, a layer twice as large is required. If the winter is initially snowy and warm, then in order to protect the roses, you only need to pour 15 centimeters of dry sawdust. If the weather is frosty and there is little snow, then the thickness of the poured layer should be increased to 30 centimeters. If the winter is windy, then exactly the same layer is needed for protection.
If the roses are covered with sawdust and film, then they should overwinter well. Under them, a stable temperature of the soil is maintained throughout the winter, and in the spring it rises extremely slowly, when the air and the earth are already actively warmed up by the sun. This helps the roses stay dormant until the night frost has passed.
It is advisable to use dry and fibrous peat for shelter. It must be prepared in advance and dried well. All this is done in the summer. In no case should you use raw or, especially, wet peat. It is very important that the shelter is protected from water. The thickness of the layer depends on the weather and where the rose garden is located.
It is very easy and affordable to use leaves to protect roses in winter. If applied correctly, they will protect the bushes very well from possible cooling. Any leaves are used for covering, but oak leaves are best. Harvesting occurs when it is warm and sunny. Before direct use, you need to store them in heaps that are reliably protected from rain.
In no case should you cover with wet leaves. They will settle under their own weight and compress so that they will not let air through. The layer of leaves should be 30 centimeters if the beginning of winter is snowy, and if there is no snow, but very coldy up to 50 centimeters. A layer of such a large thickness is needed due to the strong subsidence of the leaves and the partial loss of their ability to retain heat.
A very responsible job is to remove all shelters from roses in the spring. If roses are hilled, then they winter well, provided that frost holes are formed above the level at which hilling was carried out. But very often in autumn the wind sways the shoots, and holes in the form of funnels appear in the mounds, which are not always visible. In this case, frost holes may well appear below, and the safety of the bushes will be under serious threat.
When warm days come (April, end of March), it is necessary to remove snow from all shelters. Next, you should remove the film, then, when it completely thaws at the edges, it should not be under the sun for a long time. If you remove it in time, it will last a very long time. It is very important that the water vapors that are formed during the heating of the shelter freely go outside.
After the mounds have thawed, you need to immediately unpack the bushes so that if there are frost holes, all the ice can thaw and all damaged tissues dry out. To do this, the bushes are opened so that air can pass freely, and they are closed with insulation material only when there is a possibility that the temperature may drop to -5 ° C.
If there are no freezer shoots from below, then the bushes should be left a little hilled - the earth will not harm the plants.
At the very end of April, it is necessary to unwind all the roses, and remove all materials for insulation from the rose garden, leaving only a small amount of them. This period can be characterized by slight frosts at night. New shoots are very sensitive to negative temperatures. All it takes is a slight frost to kill them. That is why, if there is a possibility of matinees, you need to protect the bushes with materials specially designed for this. Completely the material for insulation is removed only in mid-May.
Peat and sawdust can be used several times. They should be stored in a place that is protected from rain, and specially dried if they become damp during the winter. But, if the roses were affected by the fungus, then the materials cannot be reused.
Most hybrid tea varieties, some floribunda roses and many english roses hibernate without protection if the temperature does not drop below -5°C.
In the middle lane, shelter usually does not serve as a protection against freezing, but rather as a way to maintain the same temperature around the root collar and thus exclude damage from alternating frosts and thaws. In addition, it prevents part of the plant from drying out.
Snow is beautiful insulating material: In areas with stable snow cover, roses require less thorough protection. In northern regions with winter temperatures down to -12 ° C, flower growers use sawdust, compost or garden soil for shelter.
Stages of hilling roses
You need to cover roses after several frosts, but before the ground freezes. In the north, this is usually done in mid-November. Once a constant is established negative temperature air, roses will no longer be able to do without shelter.
- If the rose has grown too tall, you first need to shorten the stems so that they are not swayed by the wind.
- Next, you need to check the location of the vaccination site. If planted correctly, the grafting site is underground. Otherwise, you need to add a layer of earth from 2.5 to 5 cm. Even if you have to raise the flower bed, the grafting site should still remain at the correct level.
- The base of the bush and shoots are spudded to a height of about 30 cm using sawdust, compost or earth. The earth should be taken from another part of the garden: you can not dig near the bushes - this will damage the roots.
It is not recommended to unravel roses too early. Haste will negate all the work, as young shoots will die from frost. But it is also impossible to delay such work, because the shoots that have begun to grow under cover will be in danger of damping out.
With any sharp tool, even if you work carefully, it is easy to injure young shoots. It is better to unwind the roses with your hands or gradually blur the protective slide with a jet warm water. Compost or sawdust should be leveled around the bush. Part of the land taken in autumn for hilling roses from another part of the garden will probably need to be returned to its place. Leaves that will not be embedded in the soil are sent to compost.
Late spring frosts a problem for gardeners middle lane. Taking shelter here ahead of schedule is equivalent to its complete absence. The first forsythia flowers will be a reliable signal that it is time to remove the cover from the roses and start pruning.
You should not rush to throw away a bush that does not immediately show signs of life in the spring. Some roses, severely damaged in winter, are able to shoot only a few weeks after pruning. Usually roses are pruned in April, but you should wait until the end of May and only then dig out definitely dead bushes. You can find out about the safety of a bush like this: if you pull on it, but it does not give in, it means that it is alive; if a crack is heard, then, unfortunately, it will be required.
We continue the conversation about preparing the rosary for winter (you can read the beginning in the publication). In our harsh Russian climate, roses spend in shelter (just think!) Almost half a year. The success of wintering will depend on how competently we take care of our favorites. Sometimes it's a pity to send our gorgeous roses into forced confinement, but we have no other choice.
Pre-winter preparation
In a previous publication, I settled on the fact that in the dry season of Indian summer it is necessary to tie and bend to the ground. Pre-cut the unripened tops of scrubs and climbings, English, and musk roses, remove flowering shoots with buds.
Roses in the dry season of Indian summer must be tied and bent to the ground.A photo
Second: when pruning leaves, it is easy to damage the delicate skin of the shoots, where the infection will penetrate. But most importantly, the leaves of roses continue to participate in the process of photosynthesis, giving everything the roots of plants need. This continues even in shelter with meager rays of light that penetrate there (if translucent lutrasil was used). To deprive them of such an opportunity means to weaken the plants.
It has been noticed that those roses that have lost their leaves as a result of black spot disease winter much worse and die more often. Therefore, the main task is to keep the leaves to the last. And in the spring they themselves will disappear, and you can easily collect them.
We save the leaves to the last.A photo
Whether to spud roses
One more controversial issue- whether to fall asleep necks of grafted roses. There is an opinion that this must be done in the fall to prevent them from freezing. In my opinion, it's best to leave things as they are. To rake the earth around means to expose the roots, it is not advisable. It is dangerous to fall asleep, as biochemical processes continue in it. This is an active microbiological environment in which an infectious burn develops. By spring, the stems of roses covered with compost will be ringed. brown spots, the stems will have to be removed and it’s good if the rose does not die at all.
Infectious burn of a rose.A photo
It is even worse to use for these purposes, even if rotted. My neighbors once covered their roses up to half the height with manure so that they would be “warmer”. The result was sad: in the spring the plants turned black, the entire collection was destroyed.
Friendly advice: if you have a lot of roses, do everything in stages. Prepared a dozen plants - cover, then proceed to others. This must be done due to the unpredictability of our weather. We learned this from one incident when we prepared our rose garden for the final shelter, and the next morning it snowed.
Universal spruce branches
In old Russian gardens roses were traditionally covered. This natural material, thanks to numerous needles, creates a kind of airy "fur coat" that keeps the heat coming from the ground. It is important that this fur coat also "breathes", which prevents the processes of decay.In addition, needles are an excellent aseptic material. Under the spruce branches, covered with snowdrifts, roses feel great both in frost and during thaws.
Under spruce branches, roses feel great.A photo
However, recently it has become increasingly difficult to get hold of spruce branches, as in the old days. In outskirts of Moscow coniferous forests entire hectares are destroyed by the typographer beetle, it has become easy natural disaster. If you're lucky just find fallen tree consider yourself very lucky. And in all other cases, the harvesting of spruce branches should be stopped for ethical reasons. Numerous rose lovers should think about the fate of the forests.
Last year, we were unexpectedly lucky - a neighbor cut down a large "Kremlin" Christmas tree on his site, and we got a luxurious spruce branch, under which our roses comfortably overwintered. But this happens once in a lifetime. In other cases, you need to look alternatives.
Lapnik is an ideal hiding place for roses.A photo
Air dry shelter
Our savvy rose growers came up with the so-called air dry shelter. This is exclusively Russian know-how. A strong frame is constructed around the perimeter of the rose garden, on which boards are laid, covering material is spread over them, for example, roofing material, lutrasil or spunbond.
A strong frame is being built around the perimeter of the rose garden.A photo
Additionally, a garden net with a fine mesh is placed on the frame. This is done so that the spunbond does not fall into the shelter under the weight of snow. Under such shelter it is warm and dry.
Additionally, a garden net with a fine mesh is placed on the frame.A photo
However, this method requires a compact planting of roses in a single array. Lonely growing plants will have to be covered individually.
Lonely growing plants will have to be covered individually.A photo
Before frost, such a structure must be ventilated by removing excess moisture, for this, the ends are left open. And only when the temperature drops to -5 ... -7 ° C, they are closed. This method has the right to exist, but it is not without drawbacks.
To begin with, the construction of such a large-scale structure will require certain skills and materials. A huge mass of snow in a year of heavy snowfalls can break this shelter, and simply crush the roses under it. Therefore, it must be made reliable and strong.
The roses are there literally in a dungeon, not receiving sunlight. By spring, they become pale and tortured. When the time comes to open them, the plants may suffer from bright spring sun. At one time we practiced this method of hiding in our garden, but in last years considered that the use of modern covering technologies and materials makes the life of a rose grower much easier.
Modern ways
most acceptable and accessible way rose shelters today can be considered the use of modern ones - lutrasil, spunbond, agril, the invention of which greatly facilitated the life of rose lovers. The density of such materials must be at least 60 g/m².Plants are covered with at least 2 layers with the waxed side up (important!). With such a shelter, roses "breathe", when wet from rains or during thaws, lutrasil dries quickly, it is easy to work with. The edges of the fabric must be securely fastened with bricks or boards so that it is not blown away by the wind. After the snowfalls begin, the roses will be in a safe and warm shelter.
Reliable shelter for roses.A photo
I must say that some gardeners use covering material in a completely wrong way, simply wrapping them around vertically standing bushes. One often sees such "ghosts" in snow-covered gardens. However, such, so to speak, protection will not save the rose from frost. After all, it is known that it is not the blanket that warms us, but we are the blanket. So in this case, the rose is not able to generate heat, it gives the earth. Therefore, we bend our roses to mother earth - a source of heat, covering material shields its losses into the atmosphere, and snow works like a thermos. A rose wrapped in a cloth is left alone with the frost and is not able to survive the harsh winter.
It is noted that "in big company» Roses overwinter better than single roses. This is due to the fact that with a large area of \u200b\u200bshelter under it, more comfortable temperature because the earth is warm. Above large roses at the bending points, garden arcs should be additionally installed crosswise, this is done so that the snow does not break them.
Above large roses in the places of the fold, garden arcs should be additionally installed crosswise.A photo
In such places, a dome is formed, from which the snow mass will inevitably slide. In conclusion, we throw more on lutrasil polyethylene film, leaving air at the bottom for ventilation. This film protects the shelter from rains in autumn, from glaciation after winter thaws and, importantly, serves as additional protection against melt water in spring.
Properly wrapped roses will sleep peacefully all winter. Closer to spring, we will definitely talk about how to competently and safely release our captives and what to do with them later.
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