Fuchsia long time has an attractive look. The plant requires soil renewal every year.

Attention! Live in one pot can not exceed 5 years.

How to transplant a flowering plant at home?

1. Before planting, it is necessary to finally determine the permanent location of the flower. After all, the plant does not tolerate movement, especially during the flowering period.

   This will end with the fact that the fuchsia will drop the buds. Plants prefer diffused light. The best option- a place on the window on the west or east side. With a lack of sunlight, it is good for artificial lighting. By the appearance of the flower, it immediately becomes clear when the lighting is not enough. Fuchsia stops blooming, and the shoots are strongly drawn out.

2. A significant role in the development is played by the size and material of the pot. For each variety, it is selected individually. For indoor flowers of standard dimensions, a flowerpot is needed with a diameter of 18-20 cm.

   It is preferable to choose flat and not deep containers. The material is clay. This is a natural material that does not heat up. After all, overheating for the root system is an extremely negative phenomenon.

3. 
   Fuchsia is not picky about the choice of soil. Suitable ready-made universal primer. The second option is self-cooking.

   To do this, take in equal proportions leafy soil, peat or compost humus, sand. As a baking powder choose perlite or vermiculite. Plants will bloom profusely if bone meal is added to the soil mixture. For 1 liter of soil put 1 tablespoon of flour.

4. 
   The indoor flower needs regular air exchange, but do not leave the flower in a draft. Temperature fluctuations can adversely affect his condition.

   Fuchsia does not accept dry indoor air. Humidity limits in the room vary from 60 to 70%. You can maintain these parameters with a spray bottle, spraying water on the leaves, also near the plant. Do a similar procedure in spring and summer 1-2 times a day.

5. 
   Comfortable temperature should be at the level of + 18-24 ° С. At higher air temperatures, the flower begins to drop leaves and buds, and it may also dry out.

   AT winter period room temperature is maintained at + 5-8 ° C, for this the plant is transferred to an insulated balcony or a suitable place for this

6. 
   Water the plant should be plentiful in summer, moderately in winter. Waterlogging has negative consequences for the flower.

   Overflow can be avoided with good drainage, this must be taken care of even at the landing stage. Water must be used only soft, settled or filtered.

Process

After all the “components” necessary for successful growth are ready, you can start planting fuchsia in the ground.

1. We take a pot, lay a drainage layer 2 cm thick on the bottom.
2. Pour on top thin layer earth.
3. Plant with lump old earth plant in a flowerpot.
4. Sprinkle the root system around and on top with fresh soil mixture.
5. Moisturize with warm clean water.
6. Spray the foliage with a solution of a drug to stimulate growth, such as Epin.

Like other flowering houseplants, fuchsia requires soil enrichment with minerals.

Important! A different group of trace elements correspond to each growth phase. During the growing season, intensive growth is important N-nitrogen. During the flowering period, use preparations with a high content of K-potassium and P-phosphorus.

The fuchsia will fade, and it is recommended to take a break from bait. After 2-3 weeks, restore the process, after pinching. Fuchsia has a positive attitude towards minerals containing boron, magnesium, manganese, zinc, iron. Organo-mineral fertilizers increase the flowering period, activate growth, and increase plant resistance to diseases. Fertilize every week. Fuchsia is also fed by spraying. To do this, use a weakly concentrated solution mineral fertilizers. Thus, the substances are absorbed better.

Not bad for fuchsia preparations "Master for flowering plants", "Epin", "Peters". Dilute 1 cap in a liter of water. For spraying use 1/3 cap per liter. It is important to pay attention to the process of using fertilizers.

How to transplant in the fall at home?

With the advent of spring, the plant wakes up, renews itself, and the phase of active growth begins. All summer the flower is covered with graceful, bright inflorescences. And by the end of autumn, fuchsia looks tired, yellow foliage, part of it crumbles, flowering has stopped. Preparations begin for winter holidays(read about how to keep fuchsia in the winter in the basement and in the apartment). Gradually reduce watering, stop fertilizing the soil.

Fuchsias are non-capricious plants. However, flower troubles occur as a result of improper care (read about the rules of care and the nuances of growing fuchsia at home). Gray rot and rust are considered dangerous for the plant. You can fight them with special solutions of fungicides, preparations containing copper, as well as 1% Bordeaux mixture.

Pests such as aphids, whiteflies, and spider mites can cause no less problems for indoor flowers. They are located on the lower part of the leaf, feeding on the juice of the plant. At the same time, the foliage turns yellow, dries, falls off. Most effective remedy to combat them - insecticides.

- a bright representative of centenarians among flowers. A plant with a tree-like stem will boldly live for 20 years, while it will actively develop and bloom luxuriantly. During this time, fuchsia will become a neighbor, friend and family member. The main thing is to organize necessary care, create optimal conditions, regularly transplant and rejuvenate the flower.

Among the bright indoor plants having decorative inflorescences, fuchsia is the most conspicuous. This fabulous tree or bush strikes every summer with its abundance and bright colors elegant and incredible flowers. Fuchsia is actually an animated flower, it gives a touch of playfulness to an austere garden. No wonder fuchsia, with its delicate petals and elegant stamens, has always been compared to a ballerina.
The more decorative and exotic indoor flower the more demanding it is to take care of it. Therefore, fuchsia care at home for its full development must be organized with knowledge biological features plants subject to certain rules.

Lighting Requirements

Particular attention when growing fuchsia at home should be given to lighting. Any kind of fuchsia needs bright diffused light. It is necessary to create intense lighting, but with shading from the burning rays of the sun. Fuchsia does not tolerate the heat of the day, but is very pleased with the morning and evening sun.
Lighting conditions directly depend on the plant variety. Fuchsia with bright inflorescences responds favorably to sunbathing arranged for her in the morning and evening. At the same time, there is a rule: the darker the color of the flowers, the brighter the lighting should be. That is, delicately colored varieties should be kept in openwork shade, while those with red and purple flowers can be grown in full sun.
When placing a flower in a house, you should take into account its lighting requirements and opt for northeast or west windows.
During the flowering period it is forbidden engage in rearrangement or rotation of the plant: all flowers and buds can fall off.

Temperature requirements

Fuchsias are very sensitive to heat. For the growing season, temperatures from + 18 ° С to + 25 ° С will quite favorably affect. In summer, it is extremely difficult to provide such conditions at home. In the summer (especially in August), open ground is perfect, but when the temperature rises to 30 ° C, fuchsia can shed its leaves, stop blooming and begin to dry. In a special heat, the plant will feel better on a loggia or balcony, where it will not be reached by direct sunlight, which can lead to death.
To save its sensitive roots from overheating, it is better to use a large ceramic pot: it never gets very hot (unlike plastic ones).
With the onset of autumn, the temperature in the room should be reduced from + 5 ° С to + 12 ° С. The content of fuchsia at higher temperatures leads to the fact that the foliage will become smaller, the buds may fall off, and the plant itself will begin to hurt.

Plant watering requirements

For home maintenance and care, fuchsia is absolutely unassuming. Caring for her is very simple. During the seasons spring-autumn water fuchsia is plentiful as soon as it dries upper layer soil. But in winter, watering should be moderate. Water should preferably be settled: it is then softer and healthier.
When the growing season ends, watering should be reduced. But for the period October-November - in general, you can stop.
At low temperature homemade fuchsia can be watered 1-2 times a month.
In general, watering requirements are as follows: the soil should always be slightly damp, but you should not allow an excess of liquid in the flower container. Fuchsia does not tolerate overdrying, waterlogging and acidification of the soil - this negatively affects the well-being of the flower.
Fuchsia care involves not only proper watering, but also spraying . During growth, it is useful to spray the leaves with a spray bottle, and you can also place a small cup of pebbles filled with water near the pot to humidify the air. The plant is very fond of spraying, but this is absolutely impossible to do in sunlight. Like watering, spraying is best done in the early morning or in the afternoon with settled water. In hot weather, fuchsia will gratefully respond to spraying. And for the autumn-winter period, excess moisture is not recommended, so the plant does not need to be sprayed.

Rules for fertilizing and feeding fuchsia

Indoor flowers require top dressing. Fuchsia needs fertilizer all year round, with the exception of winter. There are even special top dressings for fuchsias. In this case, the choice should be made in favor of complex fertilizers. It is supposed to fertilize once a week, starting to do this towards the end of March. You can fertilize the plant with each watering, but then the weekly dose must be divided by the number of waterings per week.
If fuchsia grows in open field, then the efficiency of biofertilizers will be high, but for those growing indoors, any ready-made fertilizers for feeding houseplants are suitable.
Until the flowers open, occasionally add a little fertilizer (1/3 serving) to the spray water. When the fuchsia fades, they arrange a short break in top dressing, which is resumed after some time.

Conditions for proper wintering of the plant

Fuchsia is a seasonal plant. In summer, he has a period of active growth, but in winter he needs to provide a period of rest at a temperature of + 5 ° C to + 12 ° C and place in other conditions of detention. If fuchsia is kept in a warm room in winter, then the next season it may not bloom, despite good care.
For wintering fuchsia, a pantry, a garage, an insulated basement or a balcony may be suitable. In this case, lighting does not play an important role. Winter maintenance implies the rejection of fertilizers, poor watering and a decrease in temperature, but overdrying of the earthy coma should not be allowed.
After wintering, the plant is pruned and gradually accustomed to an increase in temperature.

ADVICE☞ Fuchsia does not tolerate overheating of the roots, so planters and pots are recommended to choose light colors.

Rules for care during the flowering period

After a period of rest, care at home should be performed in the following order:
♦ Spring pruning is carried out in March. Its volume depends on how the plant was cut in the fall (after flowering). Proper preparation for winter requires that all branches be shortened: old by 2/3, and this year by 1/3. All leaves, flowers and buds are removed at the same time. In this case, in the spring, it is necessary to shorten the branches by another 2 buds, remove the dried branches and those that grow inside the crown. If the pruning was not done in the fall, then the spring pruning must be done taking it into account.
♦ In addition, these plants at home also require regular rejuvenating and shaping pruning (to maintain the neatness and health of the crown). This is very important care, otherwise the crown will be exposed, become loose and unpresentable. Therefore, in the spring, after the growth of new branches, it is necessary to pinch them twice (to limit the shape of the crown and more branching). The last pinching should be done in the last decade of May, otherwise the start of flowering will be delayed.
♦ Mandatory annual transplant. At the same time, one should not try to give the roots a lot of space - this will lead to increased growth of shoots and a decrease in flowering. The new container should be 3-4 cm larger in diameter and height than the previous one. You can shake off the old soil a little and clean the roots (only for old plants). And you can only replace the top 3 cm of the old earth. Young bushes up to 3 years old are simply transferred to new pots.
Fuchsias are long-lived plants. If you provide competent care at home, then one tree plant can delight with flowers from 20 to 50 years. But bush and ampelous fuchsia quickly lose their attractive crown shape, so it is advisable to update these forms every 4-5 years, especially since they reproduce well with green cuttings.

Fuchsia transplant rules

Fuchsia transplantation at home should take place Every year and certainly in the spring . Replant the plant and change the soil only when root system completely fills the container. This is necessary for additional air flow, rooting and as a way of reproduction.
This is done in the same way as with other indoor flowers. For these purposes, it is customary to use special soil, which is sold in stores, or any fertile soil is suitable. And of course, drainage is necessary so that the plant does not draw in too much water. The use of sand or humus is suitable as a useful additive, and if the plant is grown on a loggia, then loam, which perfectly retains water.
You need to transplant into a larger pot, on the bottom of which you first lay a drainage layer of pebbles (or expanded clay) up to 3-4 cm high (it will be easier to take care of), then pour fresh fertile soil, place the plant with an earthen clod and sprinkle with soil.
Fuchsia loves moist soil, but the slightest stagnation of water leads to root rot. The substrate must be loose and breathable, which can be achieved by adding 1/3 of leaf humus. Optimal composition: sod land, leaf humus, peat, sand in a ratio of 3:3:1:1.
Fertilizer after a recent transplant can only be renewed after 3 weeks.

Fuchsia propagation methods

The main purpose of reproduction is to increase the number of plants. There are several options for this:
1) cuttings;
2) seed reproduction;
3) reproduction with the help of leaves.

Reproduction by cuttings

The reproduction period of fuchsias by cuttings falls on the months of February-March, less often it is August-September (for those varieties that grow slowly). Doing so better in spring or in the fall, since the plant does not tolerate heat well and the cuttings may not take root.
From mother plant it is necessary to take a cutting 10-20 cm and put it in a container with water and wait for the roots to appear. When placing the cutting in water, it is necessary to cut off the lower leaves, because. they quickly rot and render the entire stalk unusable. After 20-25 days roots are formed, and it can be planted in the ground. The recommended composition of the soil for planting fuchsia includes equal parts of leaf and sod land, sand, peat and humus.

To get a lush, luxurious bush, you need to plant cuttings in such a way that there are several of them in one pot. The young will flower the same year.

Reproduction by seeds

Reproduction by seeds is carried out only for breeding purposes. When propagated by seeds, artificial pollination is necessary for their maturation. By self-mixing different varieties of fuchsias, you can get many new hybrids that will delight the eye with their riot of colors and beautiful bright hues.

Reproduction by leaves

Reproduction of fuchsia at home with the help of leaves implies the following scheme: you need to tear off the stems in tandem with the most developed leaves and lay them in loose soil no deeper than 1 cm. Then they can be covered. For this, a plastic or glass lid is suitable. In order for them to grow well, they need to be sprayed every day with a spray bottle. Water should be boiled and warm. As soon as small rosettes appear at the very base of the stem, it will be possible to start transplanting into small pots.

Diseases and pests of fuchsia

If negative changes occur with the plant, you should immediately help it. In general, a flower like fuchsia is practically not susceptible to disease. If the humidity is too high, then small dewdrops may form on the fuchsia leaves. Also, the leaves may be covered with powdery spots. To eliminate this trouble, it is necessary to start preparing a mixture of water with "Fundazol", in a ratio of 11: 1. Spray the plant with this solution.

Healthy leaves are easy to determine: saturated green color is a good sign.
If the leaves turn yellow - this is a signal chlorosis, which indicates abundant watering of the plant. It is also possible that the plant lacks substances such as nitrogen or magnesium.
If yellowness appeared between the veins of the leaf, this means that the plant needs manganese.
When dry brown spots, you should know that the plant needs "Molybdenum".

The roots will give us more information to diagnose the plant..

A favorable sign if the roots are white and short. If the roots densely intertwine a clod of earth, then this is a signal that the plant needs to be transplanted into a larger pot as soon as possible. If there is no white color in the roots, but on the contrary they are brown and very dark, then this indicates that the plant is suffering. root rotten. This is also a sign of abundant watering and most likely the plant will need to be thrown away.
The most common fuchsia diseases are blackleg when rooting cuttings and rust on the leaves . Rust can be recognized by the brown concentric circles at the bottom of the leaf. All leaves that have been affected should be removed immediately. After all, there is the possibility of a very easy transfer of disputes: from the wind, insects or human hands. This disease is infectious and easily spreads to healthy plants. It is necessary to check in a timely manner whether other fuchsias are infected. It is necessary to thoroughly wash and disinfect all the tools that were used when working with an infected plant. And you certainly need to carry out the same manipulations with your hands if you accidentally come into contact with infected leaves.
After removing diseased leaves, it is necessary to spray with such preparations as: Topaz, Vectra, Strobi, Bordeaux mixture, Kuproksat. Process 2-3 times with an interval of 10 days.

AT room conditions fuchsias are most often affected spider mite and white flies(whiteflies). White flies are small insects, no larger than 2 mm in size. This name was given to them due to the presence of two pairs of white wings. In general, white flies are none other than representatives of the moth family. The larvae of these insects usually take root in the lower part of the leaves. They cause harm by sucking out the juice and leaving traces in the form of white sugary secretions. Excessively damaged leaves may turn yellow and fall off.
If these pests have just appeared, then the plant must be bathed in warm water(from +36°С to +38°С), but do not immediately expose to the sun, but allow to dry completely. If this does not help, it is necessary to treat the entire crown three times with one of the preparations: Aktara, Agravertin or Fitoverm. Processing is carried out every 7 days. Spray the crown and place in a plastic bag for half an hour, then dry in the shade. Pour the substrate with a doubled dose for spraying. In this case, all pests die, and new ones do not develop from the soil.
There is an option for washing the leaves with green soap, but this method will only be effective for small plants.
If the white-winged fly is not noticed in a timely manner, then its rapid reproduction will lead to damage to the nearby fuchsias.
Sick plants are best simply thrown away, and the substrate must be disinfected with a bright solution of potassium permanganate.

Frequently asked Questions

Why does fuchsia not bloom?
Reasons why fuchsia does not bloom:
. if the wintering regime is not observed: fuchsia is kept in a too warm room;
. if it is watered too abundantly;
. if in the summer it does not receive enough top dressing or watering;
. if she lacks natural light during growth.

How to make fuchsia bloom?
In order for the plant to bloom, it is necessary to correct the mistakes made in caring for it. If everything was done correctly, and fuchsia does not bloom or flowering is not abundant, then flowering can be further stimulated by pruning and feeding it with a special herbal preparation from a flower shop.
The lateral shoots are removed, and the apical shoots should be pinched. The plant is shaping. In this way, you can grow a beautiful flowering plant for pots or a stem tree that needs to be supported.
With poor flowering, you can also try to correct the situation with the help of phosphate and potash fertilizers.

What to do if the fuchsia wither, dry and fall leaves?
This indicates excessive dryness of the air, and the soil suffers from a lack of moisture. The problem is solved very easily: you need to make watering and spraying more intense.
If the plant has sluggish leaves, but there is moist soil in the pot, the root system of the fuchsia has rotted. Cuttings should be cut from the plant as soon as possible for propagation, because. the mother plant can no longer be saved.

What to do if fuchsia buds do not want to open?
If unopened buds began to fall off fuchsia, this means that the plant was disturbed during its abundant flowering. As you know, fuchsia does not like this. Also, the reason for this can be abundant watering. It must be moderated so that the earth can dry out by half. It is advisable to replace the topsoil. Fertilize at least once a week.

How to determine the quality of a fuchsia seedling in a store?
Firstly, the plant should have an attractive appearance, and the roots should not protrude above the substrate. Secondly, the plant must have a certificate indicating the variety, the shape of the bush (ampel, upright, bush) and a photograph of the flowers. The leaves should be free of spots, dry tips, uniform color. Also examine the top of the central shoot: it should be intact and unpinched. This will allow you to independently form a crown in the desired shape, of which there are three types: ampelous, bush and standard. If everything is clear with the first two, then read on how to grow fuchsia on a bole.

Growing fuchsia on a bole at home

A rooted cutting of an upright fuchsia grows quickly and turns into a tree in one season. When the shoot grows 15 cm, its central part must be tied to a peg, and all side shoots removed. When the shoot grows to the desired height (1.2-1.5 m), you need to leave a few upper side shoots, and pinch the central one.
For the first season, care for this: you need to pinch all the left shoots at least 2 more times. It is desirable to limit flowering by removing buds. Next, for the standard tree, make a reliable support and provide standard care.


The most important thing is to always remember that any plant requires attention and care for it. It won't always be difficult. Treat them with kindness and warmth, because they are also living beings.

The long-standing exotic ancestors of fuchsia are shrubs and trees, whose homeland is Central America and New Zealand. The earliest evidence for the existence of fuchsia is petrified seed found in New Zealand. It is believed that he is approximately 30 million years , but experts say that the species itself appeared in South America even earlier.


Aztecs and Incas built their cities in the mountains and, although they were surrounded by wild fuchsias, these flowers did not carry any economic or cultural significance. On their drawings and decorations, on pottery or ceramic products, there is no image of fuchsia. The ancient peoples paid no attention to bright inflorescences fuchsia. One of the varieties grew among the ruins of the famous Inca city of Machu Picchu. It is believed that these flowers were decorated with the most famous houses Incas.
When Spanish conquistadors destroyed the Inca civilization, fuchsia began to play a different role. The Spaniards appropriated the harvest fields and other sources of food, and the natives were forced to eat fuchsia berries rich in vitamins. Also, Spanish flower hunters were looking for plants useful with medical point vision and nutritional value. So fuchsia turned out to be an insignificant find, unlike their earlier finds - potatoes and tomatoes.

The name fuchsia comes from the name of Leonart Fuchs. (1501-1566), German botanist and physician, one of the "fathers" of modern botany, who lived in the 16th century.
The first attempt to bring fuchsia to Europe failed. Plant specimens were lost in a shipwreck. Despite this failure, introduction of fuchsia to Europe was inevitable. In 1700, an expedition looking for plants rediscovered this plant and brought it to Europe. Thanks to its exquisite flowers, it quickly gained popularity in the Western world. A century earlier, Fuchs could hardly have imagined that a plant named after him would have such a profound effect on the world around him.
In 1788, the first varieties of fuchsia were introduced to Great Britain; sailors brought them from South America. In 1793, expensive fuchsias flooded the market, and the public was fascinated by this exotic new flower. Every now and then, expeditions for plants were equipped. Fuchsia picking has become a lucrative business. The popularity of fuchsia increased so much that attempts to grow it in the winter increased substantially, and within a few years, fuchsia amazed the public with a variety of sizes and flower shapes. However, the First World War reflected in the existence of bizarre fuchsia. Gardeners and florists switched to edible cultivation for the nation, and fuchsias were quickly forgotten.
By the end of the war, fuchsia had become a flower of the past, and only 15 years later after the war The American Fuchsia Society was founded. Inspired by the pre-war popularity of fuchsia, enthusiastic Californian gardeners began to fight for the future of the flower. Their efforts and enthusiasm led to the rapid spread of fuchsia.

Wide open window to the World of Fuchsias

Many consider fuchsia annual plant, but really it is perennial . Fuchsias are evergreen perennial shrubs Cyprian family. In nature, there are about 100 species that grow in the jungles of New Zealand, Central and South America. But flower growers liked the flower so much that today tens of thousands of varieties and hybrids with buds of the most striking shapes and colors have been bred. In New Zealand, fuchsias can grow up to 10 meters tall, and unique tree sometimes used as a building material.

There is about 125 wild fuchsia species , most of which are found in the West Indies and Latin America. Fuchsia grows in mountain crevices and forest edges where the soil is nutritious and well drained, as well as in high and humid mountain forests.

Despite this diversity, all fuchsias retain their unique characteristics.
South American was first described fuchsia trifoliate (even the conquistadors brought it as a gift to the king of Spain). This species is distinguished by very unusual narrow long flowers. The species itself, like all hybrids bred with its participation, is extremely unpretentious: one shoot, accidentally dropped into a flower bed, will give a lush flowering bush by the end of the season, despite the fact that all care will be to maintain soil moisture. In autumn, you can dig up a bush, cut it off, place it in a temporary container and keep it in the basement at a temperature of + 5 ° С to + 8 ° С in winter. And in the spring, after the last frost, plant it again in a flower bed.

Fuchsia flower petals are rich in variety colors . They can be single color, two color and three color. The flowers of most of the original species have a very interesting color: a mixture of purple, scarlet and brick tones, which is rendered in a separate shade - the color of fuchsia. Light and dark inflorescences delight the eye with their variety of colors and beautiful bright shades. They can be either white or purple, crimson or with red sepals.

Fuchsias, especially the long-tubed red varieties, are excellent flowers for attracting hummingbirds to the garden.

The flowers are very unusual in shape and consist of a calyx and a corolla with bent edges. Long stamens protrude from the calyx, and the petals are always shorter than the calyx. They are often compared to "Chinese lanterns" that hang from the end of a long thin pedicel. Different varieties of fuchsia have many non-double, semi-double, terry, densely double hybrids, the difference of which is the number of corolla petals. Fuchsia flowers can also appear collected in loose inflorescences or the so-called racemose hybrids.

Despite the fact that there are more than 100 breeds and more than 8,000 varieties of fuchsia, gardeners divide them into only 5 main groups. The first one includes single-flowered fuchsias, which always have only 4 petals. The second group is semi-double fuchsia, they have 5 or 7 petals. The next group is terry, which has 8 or more petals. Another distinctive group is the trifoliate fuchsia, which has one flower but very long tubules. And finally, unique among all fuchsias are creeping fuchsias , whose flowers look up.

What is interesting, formed after flowering berries on long petioles - edible have a pleasant sweet and sour taste and healing properties. In the cuisine of the Indians of South America, they are used as a seasoning for meat dishes. The Maori of New Zealand used the juice of fuchsia berries to preserve the severed heads of their enemies.

Fuchsias are shrubby and tree-like, the leaves are opposite, oval, pointed, often have jagged edges. By tone - mostly dark green, although already bred variegated fuchsia varieties.

The most popular varieties of fuchsia

For home growing many varieties of fuchsia are popular, but according to reference books it is known as "Fuchsia hybrid" or "Fuchsia hybrida". Homemade fuchsia flowers unusual shape: something similar to bells or small shades. In the garden and at home, you can grow the following varieties:

. Annabel- white semi-double flowers with pinkish sepals. The form of shoots is slightly drooping.

. "Deep Purple"- the branches droop under the weight of large double flowers of deep blue-violet color with white sepals.

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Fuchsia room: reproduction at home

Fuchsia is a colorful, profusely flowering plant. In nature, there are about 100 species. Indoor fuchsia reproduction involves cuttings. Considering that the fuchsia plant belongs to the angiosperms, it is logical to assume that it has seeds and reproduction by them is also possible. But no one can guarantee the preservation of varietal characteristics.

Growing indoor fuchsia is popular due to beautiful flowering crowns.

It is not at all difficult to separate the stalk yourself and subsequently grow a full-fledged plant from it that will please the eye. But you need to know some features, the observance of which will be the key to success in the reproduction of fuchsias.

The secret of the popularity of fuchsia

Fuchsia is a very common indoor plant. As a rule, housewives prefer to place this flower in the kitchen or in the dining room - it suits the mood, since all of it appearance only emphasizes the warmth of the hearth and comfort. A lush flowering crown brings a festive mood even to the most gray everyday life. A variety of species will allow you to choose the perfect fuchsia for any interior, regardless of the style of decoration and the overall color scheme of the room.

But another factor behind this widespread fuchsia, is an amazing ease of reproduction. You can go to a neighbor for a cup of tea, pinch off a sprig of fuchsia you like and in 2-3 weeks have your own young plant, and after a while it will please with the first flowers. Propagation of fuchsia by cuttings is the best way.

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How to separate a cutting

Fuchsia is a perennial evergreen shrubs. A houseplant requires an annual transplant. As a rule, at home, fuchsia is transplanted every spring. The rejuvenated plant will again bloom profusely and for a long time.

Fuchsia is rapidly propagated by cuttings.

Since it is a shrub, the branches gain density with age. If the fuchsia is not rejuvenated, then the bush becomes less lush, the leaves become more elongated, and the branches that are devoid of flexibility no longer look so elegant and gentle.

In the spring, during the period of active growth of young shoots, they are cut off by about a third - this is an excellent planting material! An excellent chance to propagate fuchsia, because for transplantation it is necessary to choose young shoots - juicy, not yet lost their red tint (all young fuchsia branches are painted with a bright reddish color). As a rule, these are the last 3-5 last pairs of leaves on a branch. For transplanting, it will be enough to cut a branch with three pairs of leaves. If buds form on the branch that was cut for the cutting, they need to be cut off. To maintain the viability of the bud, the plant needs a lot of strength, and the cutting, which does not yet have a root system and which itself will fight for survival, cannot cope with such a task. The bottom pair of leaves also needs to be cut off. So, take a branch with two pairs of leaves for rooting.

Use a sharp tool to separate the cutting and cut off excess parts to cause the least damage to the plant. The lower part of the stem must be treated with a root growth stimulator. You can buy it at any flower shop. After processing, put the branch in clean water room temperature. Choose transparent dishes for this purpose - this will allow you to see the formation of roots in time and prevent them from overgrowing. You need to immerse the branch in water exactly as much as it will be immersed in the soil after planting.

Even if the dishes with water turned out to be opaque, after 2 weeks you can safely check the quality of the newly formed root system. It's time to transplant the cutting into a flower pot - root and get an independent houseplant.

Ornamental plant of the fireweed family. The homeland is the tropical forests of the New World, in particular, it is found in the central and South America, on the islands of New Zealand, Tahiti.

The family includes up to 100 species. The name fuchsia, the flower received in honor of the German botanist-breeder Fuchs.

Fuchsia began its popularity in the 18th century, where it was brought from Chile to England and later to the European continent. Due to the unique color, she quickly became interested in breeders, who later bred a large number of varieties with different colors and flower shapes.

The plant creeps or grows in a bush. Thanks to the unpretentiousness and easy care, the flower has become popular among amateur gardeners.

The function is grown in the form of an ampelous and standard tree. But still, a number of features and nuances of care exist.

Fuchsia description

AT natural environment occurs as a small tree, shrub and semi-shrub. The leaves are whorled, or opposite, lanceolate, pointed at the end on long petioles. Along sheet plate a central vein passes, from which less distinct veins evenly extend to the sides. Drooping flowers in the form of bells, or lanterns, consist of long stamens that fall out.

Many hybrid species are known with velvety, leathery, or smooth leaves, plain or variegated. Depending on the species, the flowers are solitary or collected in a small inflorescence.

The flowering period is long, from the beginning of spring until the first frost. The flower is well suited for growing in apartments and gardens, and as a decoration for balconies and verandas.

The flower is thermophilic and does not tolerate frost, but in regions with a warm climate, fuchsia can be planted in the garden by digging it into the ground with a pot, protecting it from direct sunlight. In summer, you can plant in a home flower garden, where fuchsia will delight your eye with long flowering.

Plants overwinter in winter gardens, or cool rooms.

Types of fuchsia

Fuchsia: growing and care at home

How to grow fuchsia at home, breeding methods and care difficulties.

Lighting: The plant prefers moderate diffused light. Exposure to direct sunlight at lunchtime can cause burns. Grows well on the east and west sides without streaks. On the windows of the southern exposure, it needs an obligatory dinner tinting. The north side may not provide the necessary amount of light; for this, additional artificial lighting is installed, otherwise the fuchsia will stretch and the flowering will weaken. During the flowering period, the pot is not recommended to be rotated or moved to another place, it can throw off the leaves and buds. AT summer period, fuchsia is often taken out into the garden for open air. Gradually accustom to sunlight.

Bush fuchsia can partially tolerate sunlight, unlike ampel fuchsia, which is contraindicated in bright light.

Temperature: During the active period of growth, optimum temperature 18-25 °С. Often gardeners take out flowering pots in the garden in the open air. You can take it out to the balcony, but in the absence of drafts. Wind and direct sun also adversely affect flowering.

In winter, the pot is transferred to a well-lit cool room, at a temperature of 5-10 ° C, winter gardens are excellent. At a temperature of 16 ° C and above, fuchsia is able to overwinter, but it will definitely shed its leaves and shoots will stretch. It is extremely difficult to tolerate drafts and often dies, but an influx of fresh air is necessary. Ventilate the room regularly.

Watering: Starting from spring and before the first frosts, fuchsia is watered intensively, but after the topsoil has dried. Stagnation of water in the pan is dangerous for the roots and they will begin to rot. Water is used settled, soft. You can use rainy or specially purchased. Drying out of the soil in the pot is also not acceptable, try to keep the substrate constantly wet. For plentiful and lush flowering, at the beginning of summer, watering is slightly reduced. And starting from October-November, they reduce at times, or even stop altogether.

During wintering at low temperatures watered very infrequently. And when kept in a room in winter at temperatures above 16 ° C, it is necessary to water often, otherwise the soil will dry out and the plant will die.

Humidity: The plant prefers high humidity with a foliar spray. In the hot period, spraying is carried out 3 times, in the morning and in the evening. With the onset of cold weather, they stop, and the humidity is slightly reduced. Be sure to use warm and soft water for spraying, otherwise spots will appear on the surface of the leaves and flowers and the fuchsia will lose its decorative effect.

Soil: The plant is not demanding on special soils. Suitable purchased slightly acidic ready-made mixture for flowering ornamental plants. The acidity is usually 5.5-6 pH. For self cooking soil will need: peat (2 hours), leafy soil (3 hours), sand (1 hour). You can use clay-based soil: clay (3 hours), soddy land (3 hours), greenhouse soil and sand 1 hour each.

Transplantation: Transplantation is carried out every year in the spring, after cutting the flower. To remove moisture, 1/3 of expanded clay is poured onto the bottom as drainage. After transplanting, fuchsia is watered abundantly and placed in a well-lit place.

In the summer, if desired, the plant can be transplanted again. New nutrient soil will give splendor to flowering.

Reproduction: Fuchsia is propagated by cuttings and seeds. Let's consider each method in more detail. Let's say right away that the first one is simpler, more effective and popular, unlike propagation by seeds.

cuttings. The whole procedure for quick rooting is carried out in the spring. Young shoots are used as cuttings. Unlike the old ones, they will take root faster, and you will have to wait less.

The stalk is cut off 10 cm, with the presence of 2-3 leaves, all other leaves are cut off, especially those that come into contact with water, otherwise they will begin to rot. The finished stalk is placed in a glass of water. There is no point in using additional stimulants, it is already good to take root. You can root cuttings, and completely cut off all the leaves.

The container is covered from above glass jar or plastic bag by creating a mini climate. The temperature of the content is 16-18 ° C with constant high humidity. Watered with soft water without lime and chlorine.

After a few days, the first roots should appear, and full-fledged roots for transplanting into the ground will form after 2-3 weeks.

Instead of water, you can root the stalk immediately in the ground, or sand.

Reproduction in early autumn is rarely carried out, the plant is less willing to sprout roots.

When young sprouts grow up, they are transplanted into a large pot. To create the splendor of the bush, plant several pieces together. For better branching, pinch the tops several times over the summer.

Seeds. Seed propagation is rarely carried out, only as an experiment, or selection. Two plants can be pollinated with each other different colors, resulting in your unique hybrid look.

Need to do artificial pollination, excluding self-pollination, for this they tear off the anther, and pollen of the required variety is added to the stamen. The bud is closed with gauze and wrapped with a thread or elastic band.

After a few weeks, the fruit will ripen, it is cut and the seeds are taken out.

Seeds are dried and sown in the ground. The best period is the beginning of March.

Sown in the composition of peat and sand in the same proportions. Pre-substrate is well moistened and seeds are laid on top, slightly pressing into the ground.

The container (a small wooden box) is covered with a film or a glass jar on top. Can be placed in a mini greenhouse. It is necessary to provide long-term lighting, avoiding direct sunlight. The temperature is kept at 18-20 degrees.

Ventilate the container regularly. Water only with soft water from a spray bottle.

At high humidity, the first sprouts will appear after 2 weeks.

Gradually, the sprouts are accustomed to the room environment by removing the film, leaving more and more time open every day.

As soon as the young fuchsia sprouts grow up and get stronger, they dive into separate containers. The soil is used nutritious, for adult flowers. For the splendor of the bush, several sprouts are planted together.

Top dressing: During the growing season, fuchsia is fertilized with purchased mineral and organic complex fertilizers for ornamental flowering plants 2 times a month. During the dormant period, the flower does not need fertilizer.

wintering function

Before wintering, fuchsia must be cut and kept at low temperatures - 10 degrees. Cut shoots can be used as cuttings for rooting. Cut off 1/3 of the length of the shoots, from which cuttings up to 10 cm long are cut. This is a perennial plant that, when proper care will live long and bloom profusely. Remove all dry and rotten leaves.

For wintering, fuchsia is moved to the basement, or winter Garden with a low temperature of 6-10 degrees. Irrigation is practically non-existent.

Fuchsia can overwinter in both light and dark rooms.

In early spring, after proper winter maintenance, the plant begins its growth intensively and blooms profusely.

In the spring, all bare stems are cut off by almost half, young shoots will appear on them, on which lush flowering is formed.

To form an ornamental tree from fuchsia, it is necessary to cut off all side shoots for a long time, and when the main trunk grows to the desired height, cut off the top and you have a lush crown. It will take 3-4 years to form a tree.

Pests and diseases: The plant is disease resistant, but often attacked by pests: aphids, spider mites, whiteflies.

Difficulties in caring for fuchsia

• During the period of active growth, for lush flowering, a constant supply of fresh air is necessary.
• In winter, fuchsia shed all the leaves - this often happens when kept in a warm room where the temperature is above 10-14 degrees.
• Short flowering period - violated the rules for care. Excessive watering and high wintering temperature. In the summer, there is a shortage of fertilizers and a dry earthen clod.
• Falling leaves in the summer - insufficient watering, low humidity, or insufficient lighting (except for ampelous species).
• When turning, or moving the pot to another place, the buds will fall off.
• Falling buds - insufficient lighting and the irrigation regime is violated (insufficient or excessive).
• dark spots on leaves in winter - plentiful watering at low temperatures.
• Pale leaves and thin shoots - lack of sunlight, as a result of poor flowering.
• Small flowers and spots on the leaves - direct sunlight.
• If the pot is too large, this may be the reason for the lack of flowering.
• Top dressing with nitrogen fertilizers contributes to lush landscaping, but negatively affects flowering.
• Lack of phosphorus and potassium - flowering is small, or completely absent.

In nature, fuchsia has the appearance of a shrub with flexible branches.. Its leaves are green and slightly reddish. They are oval in shape and have pointed ends. Flowering is abundant and long. Flowers of a drooping type, consist of a bright calyx and a tubular corolla with bent edges. The calyx lobes are longer than the petals. Color may be as follows:

• pink;
• white;
• red;
• orange;
• cream;
• purple;
• Violet.

ATTENTION: There are also fuchsia flowers, which have 3 different shades. The fruit is an edible berry.

Fuchsia is so plastic that it can be given any shape: ampelous, bushy, pyramidal, or grown clearstem tree. Besides, various varieties plants bloom at different times. This allows growers to create a true collection of fuchsias that will bloom from early spring to late autumn.

Leaf propagation is carried out in spring - in February-March or in autumn - August or September. You can breed in the summer, but fuchsia does not tolerate hot climates, so that there is a danger of planting material rotting.

For growing fuchsia at home, it is preferable to use a ceramic and roomy pot. This will keep the sensitive roots of the plant from overheating, and the ceramic pot never overheats, which cannot be said about plastic ones. For rooting, it is necessary to choose an air- and water-permeable substrate. You can cook it yourself. It's easy to do: combine components such as sphagnum moss, vermiculite and high-moor peat, taken in a ratio of 2:3:1.

How is it propagated by leaves?

Reproduction will require large leaves taken from healthy flower . They must have a petiole and part of the shoot with an axillary bud. It is he who will need to be buried in the ground.

The procedure is as follows:

1. Put the prepared soil in a pot. Moisturize her.
2. Make a recess in the middle, carefully place the planting material in it. Sprinkle a little earth. It is not necessary to compact the soil.
3. Cover the container with foil to create a greenhouse effect. Periodically tear off the film so that the plant is ventilated.
4. If the soil is dry, then it can be watered.

Watch a video about propagating fuchsia with a leaf:

What conditions need to be created?

In order for the planting material to take root, it has to create suitable conditions.:

• Place the container in a well-lit place, but direct sunlight should not fall on the leaf.
• The temperature regime in the room should be in the range of 20-24 degrees Celsius.
• Excessive soil moisture is not permissible, but it should not dry out either.
• The optimal humidity remains 80-90%. To maintain it, it is necessary polyethylene film. Remove it only after the plant begins to grow.

After 15-20 days, roots will begin to grow. From this moment on, open the film for the whole day, and close it at night. After 1.5 months, plant rooted leaves on permanent place in wider pots. Soon a real majestic fuchsia will grow from one leaf.

Aftercare

In terms of care, fuchsia is picky. It is very easy to take care of her. As for watering, then produce it as the topsoil dries. In winter, moisture should be moderate. Use only settled water at room temperature. It is much more useful and softer. Reduce watering at the end of the growing season. For the period of October-November, stop moistening completely. At low temperatures, reduce watering fuchsia to 1-2 times a month.

During the growth of the plant, it is useful to spray it with a spray bottle. Do this in the morning and evening. To humidify the air, place a small cup with pebbles filled with water near the container with the flower. In autumn and spring, an excess of moisture is not recommended, so stop spraying.

We talked in detail about caring for fuchsia at home and other important points in growing a flower.

top dressing

If the flower grows in open ground, then it is necessary to apply biofertilizer. And for indoor plants, any fertilizer intended for feeding indoor plants is suitable. Apply fertilizer once a week. Start doing this at the end of March. Fuchsia does not need to be fertilized in winter.

Possible diseases and pests of the plant

At proper cultivation fuchsia is not afraid of any diseases (read about the rules for growing fuchsia at home, and from you will learn about the intricacies of caring for a flower in the garden). But if the agrotechnical rules are violated, the following problems arise:

1. When the plant is exposed to direct sunlight, spots form on the leaves. You can save a flower if you move it to another place.
2. When the soil is waterlogged, root rot occurs. Save the plant will not work.
3. The yellowing of the leaves is the result of soil depletion, lack of magnesium and iron. To fight, use spraying with a solution of magnesium sulfate, preparations containing iron. Yellowing can occur as a result of improper watering.

   ADVICE: If the plant is affected by a fungus, then use fungicides.

Fuchsia can be attacked by pests such as:

• weevil;
• mite;
• whitefly.

Conclusion

Reproduction of fuchsia is a responsible process. In this case, errors are not allowed. Due attention needs to be paid preparatory stage and subsequent flower care. This will allow you to grow a full-fledged flower that will delight you with lush and long flowering.