Hydrangea on the leaves appeared Zvil what to do. If hydrangea leaves dry, you need to look for the cause

Hydrangea is loved by many flower growers and it is not surprising, because the large caps of its inflorescences, flaunting rare pastel shades, look very impressive during flowering, which lasts quite a long time. This is indoor plant relatively resistant to diseases and pests.

Nevertheless, flower growers still have problems with it, associated with violation of growing conditions. For example, it happens that the tips of the leaves begin to dry out in hydrangeas. And more and more. But the leaves are an important organ of the plant, without them it dies.

Why indoor hydrangea dries

Large-leaved hydrangea, due to its active development and garden origin after flowering, is recommended to be transplanted annually into new soil, with the obligatory loosening of the root ball. Very often, as a result of a transplant, the tips of the leaves begin to dry in a perennial. There can be many reasons for this phenomenon, but in most cases they are:

1. Injury to the root hairs during transplantation, which is why the bush simply “overdoes”.

2. Wrong choice of soil mixture.

3. The wrong size pot.

In addition, there are several other reasons not related to plant transplantation, due to which the leaves begin to dry out. These include:

1. Insufficient watering and spraying.

2. Dry indoor air.

3. Lack of micronutrients in the soil.

4. Wrong lighting.

It is worth considering each of the reasons separately in order to find out why room hydrangea leaves dry up.

Transplanting is serious business.

If the dryness of the leaves was the result of an inaccurate flower transplant (unfortunately, no one is safe from this), then it is worth considering that this condition can last one or even two months until the bush fully restores strength and health.

Even in the process of transshipment of an earthen clod, it is not possible to avoid a violation of the formed root system. Meanwhile, small roots and hairs, entangling the soil in a dense network, play an important role in absorbing moisture. Their damage leads to a temporary malnutrition of the plant. It can be revived by effective and efficient watering with the addition of Zircon once a week.

Incorrectly selected soil can also cause a similar phenomenon. As you know, this culture requires acidic soil. Therefore, it is impossible to plant hydrangea in humus. In its pure form, it does not give the acidity of the soil necessary for this plant. When planted in neutral or alkaline soil, flower development slows down.

No less important when transplanting is the choice of a new pot. It should be wide, but shallow, because root system does not grow in depth, but grows mainly in width. The new pot should have a diameter of 1.5 times the previous capacity. But when planting a bush in light soil, you do not need to get involved in increasing the volume of the pot, otherwise in the summer the plant will need more frequent watering.

Providing watering and air humidity

Dry leaf tips may be a reaction to insufficient soil moisture. Hydrangea loves moisture, and therefore timely watering is very important for it. Even a short-term lack of moisture can lead to the fact that her leaves begin to dry out.

The situation will be aggravated even more if the flower pot is on the windowsill under the scorching sun. You can reanimate the plant by placing it in a shaded place, without depriving sunlight, and providing abundant watering and additional spraying.

In the same way, this beautiful moisture-loving flower reacts to too dry air in the room where it is located. It is worth measuring the level of humidity in the room.

To prevent this problem, constant spraying or the installation of a simple humidifier in the form of a tray or saucer with wet stones and moss will be required.

How important is it to feed and choose a good place

Another cause of drying leaves is a lack of nutrients in the soil. The fact is that during the flowering period, the plant needs top dressing, which should be carried out weekly by any complex fertilizer intended for flower crops. But it is worth considering that the hydrangea reacts negatively to high doses of mineral fertilizers, from which its leaves turn yellow. At the end of flowering, top dressing is gradually reduced.

Indoor hydrangea must be properly placed indoors. Despite the fact that it is a photophilous flower, from an excess of sunlight, its dark green foliage is usually covered with light spots. The best option location flower pot are the sills of the eastern and western windows. In addition, care should be taken that the foliage does not touch window glass, otherwise, due to the resulting burns, the tips of the leaves will begin to dry.

It is very important to recognize the problem in time so that the assistance provided is timely and correct. Only in this case will it be possible to save the indoor hydrangea and admire its luxurious flowering for a long time.

We invite you to watch a video about what diseases are and why the leaves of hydrangeas dry:

The first thing to ALWAYS take into account when planning the care of a freshly purchased flowering hydrangea in containers is that any such plant will feel fine if the proportion of the root system and the aerial part is observed - the root system and the space allotted for it should not be less than the aerial part. If the underground part of the plant is much smaller than the above-ground part, and even in bloom, then such a plant was maintained to give it a high quality. presentation on INTENSIVE drip irrigation and the use of high-performance fertilizers. And what follows:

1. After the purchase, we store the hydrangea long time on the balcony without proper watering and top dressing. There is no time to go to the dacha and plant. As a result, the plant will die. CONCLUSION - even at low positive temperatures and the absence of strong sunlight when long-term storage plant needs to be watered

2.Bought blooming hydrangea, immediately planted - while soaking the root system after removing it from the container, cut off the roots - as often advised on the Internet. The result - the root system that existed before pruning was not used to working anyway - everything fell into it in perfect form from drip irrigation and super fertilizers, and then this lazy root system was cut off by 30%. RESULT - the plant got sick, the flowers wilted, the leaves dropped. No view and no pleasure either in the garden, or from the money spent. CONCLUSION - you can’t soak container plants in bloom, shake off the roots from the substrate, cut the roots, because this damages about 30% of the secondary root system, which is very critical during flowering, since the plant spends a lot of energy on flowering - and any plant can get sick

3. We bought a very beautiful flowering hydrangea (there are a lot of flowers, a lot of leaves, a container 12-17 cm in diameter), they planted it correctly, watered it, everything is fine at first, but after 2 weeks the tips of the leaves begin to turn black, dry out, the plant gradually loses its appearance. What's wrong? The easiest way to say that they sold you low-quality hydrangeas. But the truth is different - the plant begins to get sick during the period of adaptation to new growth conditions, because the root system of any plant, after being kept on drip irrigation, is not accustomed to work actively to extract nutrients from the soil with effort. Translated into human language such a plant is an addict. It must be gradually weaned from strong fertilizers and accustomed to work the root system. The plant needs to be adapted to the new conditions. (not only hydrangea, but also any other strongly leafy and flowering plant at the time of landing in the same way) open field you have not let down in the garden drip irrigation with fertilization for each plant. CONCLUSION - the first 2 months after planting every 2 weeks, ALWAYS fertilize.

Hydrangea

4. In continuation of paragraph 3 above, there is another problem - hydrangeas (and any plants) do not want to build up a secondary root system for some reason, and the adaptation period is delayed. What is the reason? The reason is the difference in quality nutritional properties substrate and soil in which the plant is planted. Translated into the human case, it looks something like this - we are at home, where we have everything we need, and behind the gate is the Sahara desert, where there is not enough food and water. Do we want to go there? NO. So the plant does not want to direct new roots towards a significantly poorer soil or with a significant deviation in some soil indicators. CONCLUSION - when planting plants, it is IMPOSSIBLE to allow sudden changes in soil composition in the adjacent zone of 20-25 cm to the roots of plants. That is, before planting, be sure to mix garden soil with the introduced substrate when planting at a distance of 20-25 cm for faster adaptation of heavily leafy plants in bloom and faster growth of their secondary root system in a new growth site.
5. If you bought macrophylla hydrangea - do not plant it in places with full sunlight throughout the day. For her, you need to choose places with light shading or sunlight ONLY in the morning. The first year after planting macrophylla hydrangea, until the plants have grown a secondary root system in the deeper layers of the soil (where there is more moisture and cooler temperatures in the soil to cool the hydrangea from the afternoon summer heat), abundant watering is required. It is advisable to choose rich, not too dense soils with an acidic environment. The ideal soil environment for planting hydrangeas will be mature compost (lots of nutrients, loose structure allows air to penetrate to the roots and an acidic environment). Plenty of hydrangea nutrients are absolutely REQUIRED to ensure a profuse annual bloom - as hydrangea produces very profuse blooms for an extended period from mid-June to mid-autumn and at the same time lays flower buds to bloom next year. If this is applied to a woman, then it would look like this - pregnancy in the last months and at the same time occurs new pregnancy- nutrition - you need a lot more for two new lives in the mother's body.

Hydrangea

If all this is taken into account when planting hydrangeas, then you will not have any problems with their survival and longevity in your gardens. Give them a little of your care and when the hydrangeas give a new wave abundant flowering in your garden, you will be ready to forgive them EVERYTHING - looking at this beauty.

Foreword

Whether it is flowers on the windowsill or in the garden, you always want to see them blooming and beautiful, but hated pests or improper care can play a trick on them and lead to the development of hydrangea disease. To avoid negative consequences prevention should be carried out, and in case of infection, know how to deal with it correctly.

This amazing flower has a large "family" of subspecies, each of which is distinguished by the shape of the inflorescences, color palette, figured leaves and abundant flowering. The main color of the hydrangea is white. However, there are also varieties that have enough large gamut colors. These include flowers large-leaved hydrangea. They can be pink, blue, red and lilac (can be seen in the photo). Moreover, their color directly depends on the acidity of the soil.

beautiful geranium in the garden

In an acidic environment, the petals become blue in color, in an alkaline environment - pink or lilac, and in a neutral environment - light beige, almost white. Hydrangea also belongs to those amazing plants, which are able to accumulate aluminum in themselves, due to which the flowers become saturated blue tint. The name of the plant is given in honor of the sister of the Prince of the Holy Roman Empire - Hortense. And its botanical name is hydrangea. Translated from Greek, it means "vessel of water." And this is not surprising, because the plant loves moisture so much.

Infectious diseases, the causative agents of which are pests and bacteria, are not the only source of infection and death of hydrangeas. Many do not even think that poor-quality seedlings can become the root of the problem. Therefore, the purchase of seedlings should be treated with particular care, purchasing them from trusted suppliers. However, even in the case of buying healthy seedlings, insufficient care for them can lead to yellowness, the so-called chlorosis. The plant's metabolism is disturbed, the leaves of the hydrangea become light yellow, the veins darken.

Signs of yellowing leaves

The main causes of yellowing leaves can be the following factors:

• Large accumulation of moisture. Even though hydrangea loves moisture, too much of it can be destructive.
• Decreased acidity of the soil. In addition to moisture, the plant prefers an acidic environment. If such an environment is absent, then when watering, you can slightly acidify the water with citric acid.
• Direct exposure to sunlight. Like many plants, hydrangea does not tolerate aggressive ultra-violet rays. Therefore, semi-shaded areas will be ideal.
• Lack of mineral fertilizers. The absence of the necessary top dressing in the soil can also negatively affect the condition of the aerial parts of plants and lead to yellowness.
• Excess humus and lime in the soil. There must be a measure in everything.

As a preventive measure for the development of chlorosis, regularly fertilize hydrangeas with iron-containing substances, and also use soft water for irrigation, having previously settled it for several days. Optimal soil an environment with a pH level of 6-4 is considered. At home, it can be determined using litmus paper. When in contact with a humid environment, the paper turns yellow, which means that the soil is not acidic enough. Blue color indicates neutral soil, green-blue indicates absolutely neutral soil. If signs of disease appear, spray the plant with a chelated form of iron, chemicals Ferovit and Antichlorosis. And also do not forget to feed the soil, making a solution - 4 g per liter of water citric acid and 3 g iron sulphate. Moreover, they can spray fading leaves or water the soil.

In addition to yellowness, another problem of a non-infectious nature may arise - the withering of the plant, in which the leaves can dry and fall off in parallel. The reason may be drought, insufficient watering of hydrangeas and overdried air. In particular, these factors affect the large-leaved hydrangea, in which even with sufficient moisture, inflorescences can wither. To prevent infection of room hydrangea, regularly ventilate the room and monitor intensive watering, especially on a hot, dry summer day. And when growing garden hydrangea don't forget to plant tall annual plant to reduce the exposure of the plant to intense solar radiation.

Despite the fact that garden hydrangeas are rarely exposed to fungal infections, however, you need to know the enemies in person. If you are still overtaken by a similar problem, then your first lifeline will be the treatment of the flower with copper chloride, which is rightfully considered one of the most effective means from fungal diseases.

gray mold on leaves

White rot. The main lesion of an adult plant is the root system. As a result, the hydrangea ceases to receive required amount nutrients, it acquires a brown shade uncharacteristic for this plant and begins to die off gradually. The defeat of a young hydrangea begins with the darkening of the shoots, which over time are also covered with a white coating, similar in appearance to small accumulations of cotton wool, and rot. If the disease progresses, sclerotia develop on the white plaque - black blotches. Even after removing the plant from the soil, the causative agent of white rot remains in the ground along with the remnants of the hydrangea. Therefore, the soil in this case must be changed or steamed. Treatment of room hydrangea should be carried out with the help of fungicides, among which high efficiency showed the drug Phytosporin.

Gray rot. This is a more dangerous and difficult to treat disease (shown in the photo). Its main features are the wateriness and softness of plant tissues, with a characteristic gray coating in the form of fluff on the affected areas. If the weather is dry enough, then the dead tissue begins to dry out, and holes form in its place. The first thing treatment begins with is the removal of dead parts. Among fungicides for indoor hydrangea, it performs well Fast, Chistotsvet, Fundazol. For garden large-leaved hydrangea, the drug is best suited Rovral Flo 255 SC. Spraying is carried out with an interval of 2 weeks - 3 times. Among more available funds can be called spraying solutions with soap and copper. Other methods of fighting in the garden can be found in the article.

False powdery mildew. Due to the fact that powdery mildew, like hydrangea, loves high humidity, its occurrence is not surprising. signs of this fungal disease – dark spots on stems and leaves, oily to the touch. The treatment of the plant is carried out with a soap-copper solution, at the rate of 15 g of copper sulfate and 150 g of soap per bucket of water. True powdery mildew appears as yellow-green spots on the leaves, which later become darker, acquiring a brown tint with a clear outline. Moreover, this color is noticeable on the upper leaves, which cannot be said about the lower ones. They are covered with purple and silvery bloom. If you do not start treatment, the leaves will eventually begin to deform and fall off.

The fight is carried out by spraying with fungicides Fitosporin-M and Alirin-B, and in advanced cases Cumulus, Topaz, Thiovit Jet, Chistotsvet, Skor.

Septoria. Characterized by the appearance of small brown spots irregular shape, which eventually merge into one pattern. As a result, the leaves of the garden hydrangea dry up and die. In order to prevent the further spread of the disease, the affected leaves are cut off, and the sections are treated with preparations containing copper - blue vitriol, copper oxychloride, Bordeaux mixture. Rust is easily recognized by the rusty color of the leaves. It develops mainly due to an excess of nitrogen in the soil. In the fight against the disease, copper oxychloride, as well as fungicides, helps well. Topaz and Falcon.

One of the most common viral diseases ring spot recognized. It manifests itself in the form of blurry spots up to about 2 cm in diameter, round in shape (as in the photo), which significantly deform the leaves of the plant. Gradually, they begin to wrinkle, become asymmetric and die off.

Signs of ring spot

If the disease has severely affected the plant, then in addition it loses the ability to lay new buds. And if this ability is preserved, the flowers of the large-leaved hydrangea turn out to be small and weakened. This disease is especially active on adult hydrangeas. Unfortunately, there is no panacea for ring spot. From now on, pay more attention to the quality of seedlings, which can be the main source of infection.

In addition to fungal and viral diseases, pests cause significant damage to room and garden hydrangeas.

If you grow hydrangeas in the garden, then be prepared for a possible attack by a common or grape snail. These mollusks especially like the aerial parts of the hydrangea (young shoots, leaves, buds). The main location of the snails are the shaded areas of the gardens with high humidity. Mollusks apply their destructive power in the spring after the winter thaw. They get out of the ground and begin to feed on the succulent shoots of the plant, filled with fresh cell sap. In addition to the mechanical destruction of these pests, insecticide treatment can also be used against them. Metaldehyde or Thunderstorm. Moreover, for the best effect, it is recommended not to add them to the soil, but to pour them into plastic cups and place them around the plant.

Country snail - the enemy of flowers

Spider mite. If small yellow spots, smoothly merging into a marble pattern, attack the leaves of your favorite indoor hydrangea, then you can be sure that this is the work of a spider mite (in the photo). If you do not take action, such leaves will dry out and fall off. And in the event of a large-scale infection on the hydrangea, you can see the web where its creators are hiding. On the initial stage deal with spider mite the usual treatment of the plant with soap or mineral oil. In more advanced cases, use insecticides - Akarin, Vermitek, Fitoverm, Thiophos, Lightning.

Aphid. She can settle on both room and large-leaved garden hydrangeas. The main mechanism of its detrimental effect is suction cell sap plants and the deposition of sugary secretions, which can subsequently cause the development of soot fungus. Remember, aphids are a dangerous carrier of the virus, provoking yellowness and death of the upper part of the plant in case of severe infection. At the initial stage, it is easy to deal with aphids; it is enough to treat the hydrangea leaves with soapy water. But in more advanced cases, you will need the help of insecticides - Commander, Fitoverma, Aktara, Tobacco dust, Akarina, Antilina.

Gall nematode. Microscopic pests that cause significant damage to the root system, forming round swellings on the roots, are called galls (they can be seen in the photo). As the infection progresses, the roots begin to rot and gradually die off. Thus, nutrients cease to flow to the plant, and it completely dies. It is recommended to fight the pest on a garden scale by spraying with an insecticide. BI-58. Home pest control is more gentle, and a solution can be used for it. Buck Ecogel. It is desirable to treat the soil with the same solution before planting seeds, as a preventive measure.

How to quickly save a hydrangea? Hydrangea care mistakes in the garden - why does it die? Read in the article how to properly care for garden hydrangea so that it does not fade.

Both amateurs and professionals sometimes make mistakes. Despite the fact that the shrub began to fade, by determining the causes of the changes and choosing a treatment, you can bring the hydrangea back to life in most cases.

Why garden hydrangea wilts:

• Haven't watered for a long time.
• Little light.
• Lack of fertilizer in the soil.
• Frozen in winter.
• There was a transplant - the roots were damaged.
• Poured or directed water on the leaves.
• Leaf chlorosis - washed out minerals.

One of the care segments was disrupted due to which the hydrangea reacted with withering, yellowing or dropping leaves.

Watering hydrangeas - where are the problems?

Hydrangea is called moisture-loving plant so try to water regularly. If there was no moisture for a long time, or soil mix irregularly dried, you can observe changes in the state of the shrub. The garden hydrangea also wilts during the transitional periods - spring and autumn - when several changes occur: temperature indicators, air humidity, lighting. AT summer period hydrangea suffers under aggressive rays- the earth dries up quickly.

It is also possible to pour hydrangea. Constant, abundant watering without periods of soil drying out is the worst care tactic. In this case, they also try to regulate the intensity of the procedures, observing the frequency of moisturizing.

garden hydrangea lighting

As noted above, under direct rays in the summer, the hydrangea is sick. The leaves are burning shoots are depleted . You can try out the shading option - cover the hydrangea or scatter aggressive rays. If you are planning a transplant, choose the southeastern section. We do not recommend a fully shaded place. - hydrangea does not tolerate darkness.

Winter period and transplant

If the hydrangea is poorly insulated for the winter, the bushes will freeze over. It can suffer separately, both the root and above-ground systems. There is also a belated reaction to stress - hydrangea was weakened by temperature changes . Another unfavorable factor has been added and the shrub withers.

Similarly with a hydrangea transplant after winter - weakened root system, violation of planting or care techniques affect the condition of the hydrangea. It is necessary to carefully prepare the soil and apply anti-stress drugs after moving.

Nutritious potting mix

Both after transplantation and at the beginning of the growing season, the hydrangea is in dire need of fertilizers, as the roots are depleted with each new season.

By the way, chlorosis on leaves hydrangea manifests itself if trace elements, namely iron, are washed out of the earth.

How to process garden hydrangea so that it does not fade:

• "Zircon";
• "Epin";
• "Kornevin";
• A mixture of trace elements;
• "Nitrofoska" - a complex of minerals;

In parallel, resume care – soil and air moisture, sun exposure and, where possible, temperature adjustments. The impact of the latter can be increased or reduced due to related procedures: spraying, watering, neutralizing the negative impact on the expense of feeding and adding anti-stress complexes.

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Hydrangea - amazing beauty a plant that has lush green foliage and multi-colored inflorescences-hats. It can be grown both in the garden and in the apartment. At proper care and favorable conditions, the bush will be healthy and beautiful.

However, sometimes flower growers are faced with the fact that the leaves begin to turn yellow, dry or blacken. Why is this happening? And what should you do if you find such a problem in your plant?

The main causes of yellowing garden hydrangea and their solution

Basically, the reasons why hydrangea leaves turn yellow are errors in care or changes in environment. But sometimes the plant is damaged by pests. Consider possible reasons more.

Lack or excess of light and moisture

If the bush grows in the shade or in the open sunny area, its leaves may begin to turn yellow, brown and dry. The light regime is very important for the plant - it prefers bright, but at the same time diffused lighting.

He will also be comfortable in partial shade from trees or near shrubs. The scorching sun causes burns on the leaves, and the lack of light affects both foliage and flowering.

If yellowing is due to improper lighting, hydrangeas should either create suitable conditions or transplant it to another place.

Although the hydrangea moisture-loving plant, strong waterlogging, first of all, affects the leaves. They begin to turn yellow and then fall off. If this happens, it is important to reduce the regularity and volume of watering and not flood the plant in the future.

drafts

Hydrangea is a heat-loving flower, so sudden changes in temperature and constant drafts at the place of its landing will lead to yellowing of the leaves and withering of the entire bush.

If this is the reason for yellowing, the flower should be transplanted to a calm sunny place. It is important that the soil in the new place is suitable.

It is very important when planting a plant to choose the right place, think about it in advance.

Low acidity of the soil

Hydrangea prefers acidic soil, pH 3-6. If it grows in alkaline soil, yellow leaves may begin to appear.

If so, then periodically add to the water for irrigation lemon juice in the proportion of 2-3 drops of juice per 1 liter of water.

Also, lemon juice can be replaced with vinegar essence. In this case, the ratio will be: 1 teaspoon of essence per 10 liters of water. Over time, the soil loses its useful material, the plant also needs to be fertilized.

Nutrient deficiency

One of the reasons for the appearance of yellow foliage in a plant may be a deficiency. From early spring to mid-summer, she needs regular top dressing: 2 times a month with mineral fertilizers and 1 time with organic fertilizers.

If your hydrangea has begun to turn yellow due to a lack of micro and macro elements, Feed her with a high nitrogen fertilizer in the spring for the active growth of foliage, in the summer with "Kemira flower" for abundant flowering, in the fall - with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers to prepare for the dormant period and lay young shoots and peduncles.

powdery mildew

Leaf yellowing may be caused by this disease. It can be identified by a grayish coating on back side leaves. Yellow-green spots appear on the front side, which turn brown over time and acquire clear boundaries.

Fungicides, such as Alirin or Fitosporin, will help to cope with the disease. At advanced stages, Thiovit, Skor, Topaz, Jet are used.

Now you know why the leaves of the garden hydrangea turn yellow and what to do with the plant in case of care errors.

Hydrangea dry leaves

Possible reasons why hydrangea leaves dry and what to do with the plant:

The leaves of the hydrangea turn black

The blackening of the leaves may be dry and wet, or sluggish. In the first case, along the edges of the leaves are formed brown spots, which subsequently cause drying and wilting of the foliage. The reason why hydrangea leaves turn black and dry may be:

• Sunburn. It is important to protect the plant from the scorching rays of the sun;
• Hard water for irrigation. Plain tap water may contain lime and other impurities. Therefore, before watering it is important to defend it, at least a day. It is better to do this in the sun so that the water also warms up.

Wet blackening is easily identified by sluggish dark leaves. Its reasons may be:

• Drafts or sudden changes in temperature;
• Excessive abundant watering;
• Heavy soil that retains moisture and is poorly breathable. Hydrangea prefers light, loose, nutritious soil.

Why do panicle hydrangea leaves turn yellow?

Hydrangea paniculata, with its beautiful pyramidal inflorescences and flowering until the very cold, may also begin to turn yellow leaves. The reason, as a rule, lies in the excess or lack of something., For example:

• Excess or lack of light;
• Waterlogging;
• Lack of nutrients;
• Low acidity of the soil;
• Drafts and sudden changes in temperature;
• Diseases such as powdery mildew and ring spot.

To solve the problem of yellowing, it is necessary to adjust the care and create the most favorable conditions for hydrangea.

Hydrangea turns yellow and dries at home

Indoor hydrangea is adapted to life in an apartment, so it especially needs to be created comfortable conditions for growth and flowering. Sometimes, if the rules of care are not followed, the leaves may begin to turn yellow and dry.. What could be the reason?

You can read more about caring for hydrangeas at home.

Knowing about the causes of yellowing, blackening and drying of hydrangea leaves, you can avoid unnecessary problems. Well, if trouble does happen, tips on quick help will help restore the splendor of green foliage in a short time!