Types of laying ceramic tiles on the floor. Tile laying options - methods and recommendations

You know perfectly well that floor tiles are different. It differs in format and shape (rectangular, square or with individual outlines), as well as colors. Because naturally and logically, there are various ways to lay tiles on the floor - and if you think carefully, you can get a unique combination of colors and shapes, arrangements of elements.

However, it is not necessary to reinvent the wheel, because many combinations of which you can choose an interesting ceramic flooring have already been invented! We'll talk about this.

One-size floor tiles: installation methods

Basic way

This type of styling is one of the most widespread in everyday life - it can be seen in any home. The basic scheme for laying tiles on the floor involves the arrangement of all the constituent elements of the floor covering tightly pressed against each other in even and straight rows.

The basic arrangement does not require any special superpowers - it is the simplest and fastest when creating a seamless canvas.

Basic method: simplicity of drawing and large format - expand the space

Advice! In order to visually expand the floor area, you should choose a large-format material without patterns and patterns. The basic method, in this case, is the most suitable.

With this method of laying, rectangular ceramics do not look very effective, however, here there are some tricks for diversifying the space. For example, you can build a frame from a dark tile, placing a lighter one in the center. Or randomly insert elements of bright contrasting colors in different places.

Basic method at an angle

The tile does not have to be laid parallel to the walls - it can be rotated so that the square becomes an equilateral rhombus. With such laying, the floor looks more interesting.

With this option, it is also better to use tiles without an ornament.

The disadvantages of the method include the following points:

• cutting a lot more tiles, which will entail an extra waste of time and money. Diagonal laying of tiles on the floor will require the purchase of more material than originally planned, based on the area;
• the need for increased patience and accuracy, because this is a rather painstaking and time-consuming work;
• as a result, a considerable amount of labor waste.

Chess way

With this type of tiling, you:

• bring a more positive and joyful mood into the room;
• the interior will become more cheerful and brighter.

It is not at all necessary to use a tile covering of colors in contrast, the floor can be made “softer” with several different shades of the same color.

Advice! If you purchased a tile with lines or stripes, you can create a “chess effect”: the tile is laid so that the lines are perpendicular.

Chess way at an angle

In this case, the tile is laid in the same way as the second option, differing only in the order of the material in dark and light colors. Do not, again, forget about the overestimated consumption of material and waste.

In a run (at an angle in a run)

1. In this case, after tiling, the floor resembles brickwork. For a straight run, both a square tile shape and a rectangular one are suitable.

There are certain nuances here:

• when choosing ceramics of several colors or distinguished by texture, the floor may visually appear crooked;
• this is not at all related to styling errors - the effect is purely visual.

1. Laying "in a run", but at an angle - the process is quite laborious, not everyone will be able to build such a laying with their own hands. This method requires perfectly aligned walls and corners in the rooms, because any existing irregularities will only be emphasized.

Herringbone method

This method of laying tiles on the floor is designed to imitate parquet layout. In this case, the material is exclusively rectangular in shape.

Today there are several options for herringbone flooring:

1. If the first tile from the wall runs parallel to it, then the Christmas tree branch will cut your room diagonally. In addition, you will not need to spend a lot of time on pruning, there will be little waste.
2. If the tiles are laid at a 45-degree angle to the wall, the Christmas tree legs will go perpendicular to it..

You should not use tiles that imitate natural stone for this method: your floor will look awkward.

In doing so, you should pay attention to the following:

• if a narrow form of material was chosen for this installation, this will visually increase the space;
• large-sized tiles, on the contrary, reduce the space and make the overall room more comfortable.

When laying herringbone, you can use ceramics of different shades and colors (combine more than 2-3 colors). The floor turns out to be colorful and bright - improves mood. Multi-colored fragments can be stacked randomly, creating abstract combinations of stripes on the floor.

Geometric shapes and lines

There are also examples of laying tiles on the floor in the form of lines and geometric shapes, and to implement such ideas, you will need ceramic elements of different colors (colors, shades).

Stripes:

• able, crossing the room in length, to stretch the room following the lines;
• can cross in width - the room, on the contrary, is shortened;
• diagonally;
• they can be made both continuous and intermittent;
• direct perpendicularly;
• create all sorts of geometric shapes from them.

With all this, this method is relatively simple and practically does not involve waste. In addition, the price of leftovers and small lots in stores is often underestimated during sales, which is also a plus.

Options for combining tiles

Types of laying tiles on the floor in the presence of imagination can be diversified by combining different methods. This method is interesting functionally, not only from the point of view of aesthetics: it effectively allows you to divide the room into zones.

For example:

• the kitchen area can be laid out using the basic method;
• dining room - basic corner;
• sofa area - using the "chessboard" method at an angle.

This is just one option. If you are a person who does not look for easy ways and does not follow the beaten paths and the option of using single-size tiles seems boring and old-fashioned to you, you can try to create a unique pattern for your flooring using tiles of various sizes.

The tiles can be laid in a well-thought-out order or randomly, using various configurations and formats. If the tile sizes are multiples of one another, this method of laying is called modular. These products have a complex manufacturing process and intricate design ideas, which leads to a higher cost of the material.

We examined the main types of tile laying that exist in modern construction practice, as well as some of the options for combining styles.

This, of course, is far from all methods and types - and your personal imagination and desire to create something inimitable at home plays an important role here. The suggested video in this article will help you understand the topic deeper.

Tiles are the ideal material for finishing the bathroom. It is durable, moisture resistant and easy to wash. With it, you can create original ideas in the interior and hide the flaws of the room. If you don't know how to turn your bathroom into a trendy, cozy room, use the examples and tips in this article.

Bathroom Design Ideas

Replacing tile in the bathroom is not the most budget item of repair work. Therefore, this is done not so often, but especially carefully. The shape of the tile is most often square or rectangular, and there are many options that differ in size and texture. The standard styling method is considered to be a combination of a light bottom and a dark top, separated by a border.

Advice! Try to choose "serial products", then you do not have to select various elements separately.

When choosing color combinations, do not forget that bright colors (orange, red, yellow) energize and invigorate, while cold ones (green, blue, lilac), on the contrary, soothe.

Combination of tiles and wood finishes

If you want to make a bright bathroom, play with contrast, try combining yellow and sky blue, red and black, green and gray.

For small baths, it is better to purchase tiles in cold blue and gray tones, 30 x 20 in size, and lay them horizontally. In order not to create the effect of a "well", it is impossible to lay out the entire wall with plain tiles. Try, the remaining distance (20-30 cm) to the ceiling, paint with water-based paint or lay out to the level of the bathroom - a dark tile, and light above.

Attention! In rooms with a small area, relief tiles cannot be used.

If you want to visually increase the height of the ceilings, you must:

• lay tiles vertically;
• use bright friezes;
• decorative panels, borders, lay not lower than eye level.

An interesting finish for a small bathroom

The classic combination of white and black will never lose its popularity. It will look very impressive if the black tile is matte and the white is glossy.

Tiling schemes

Ways of laying out and tiling in the bathroom

Starting repairs in the bathroom, you need to decide how you will lay out the tiles, what area you will cover with it. There are three options for wall tiling:

1. Tiling throughout the entire space.
2. Tiling up to a certain level. Those. the bottom will be tiled, and the top with another coating (wallpaper, water-based paint, plastic panels).
3. The allocation of tiles to certain functional areas: washbasin, bathroom, washing machine.

Floor tiles only

There are many more laying schemes:

• seam to seam- that is, the tiles are laid in a row, one after the other both horizontally and vertically. In this way, square and rectangular tiles are laid out, and to add aesthetics, they are decorated with beautiful borders. You can combine tiles of two different colors. This seam-to-seam laying technique is called a checkerboard.

• "brickwork" or "in a dressing". For this method, a rectangular tile of different shades, laid horizontally, is suitable. In appearance, such a scheme resembles the laying of bricks, i.e. the bottom row of tiles is laid with a shift of half a tile, in relation to the top. Do not choose tiles in two contrasting colors, this will create an uneven floor effect.

Brick layout

• diagonal layout. The tiles are laid at an angle to form a rhombus, but seam to seam in relation to each other.

Diagonal tile laying pattern

• modular way. For this scheme, you will need tiles of 3 different sizes. Before laying out the tiles in this way, lay out all the elements on the floor to see the finished pattern, and then transfer it to the wall.

Modular way of laying

• ornamental way. In this case, a certain pattern is laid out from the tiles, for example, a color composition in the center of a plain background.

Ornamental styling

• patchwork pattern. For this method, you will need multi-colored tiles that do not repeat with each other in the pattern and do not have a common theme.

• floor with border. As a rule, for this method, bright floor tiles or mosaics are chosen, while part of it goes onto the wall, 1-2 rows. The rest of the wall is covered with a plain pastel-colored tile.

Floor with border

Attention! Such a scheme allows you to visually increase the space, but at the same time visually reduces the height of the ceilings.

How to choose bathroom tiles in different styles

The choice of tile will depend on the choice of bathroom style. The following main areas of design can be distinguished:

• . Choose ceramic tiles in pastel, soothing tones that imitate marble, complement them with friezes with ornate patterns and frescoes.

Bathroom in classic style

• Minimalism. This style provides for the rejection of everything superfluous. Use a combination of no more than 2-3 colors in the interior. For example: brown floor, beige walls and white plumbing. In this design, borders or stucco do not look appropriate.
• Country style. The main rule of this direction is the use of tiles that imitate natural materials. For walls, you can buy tiles under the stone, and on the floor. The interior should be dominated by brown, green, beige colors.
• Modern style. The tile you choose should create a spacious effect and add light to the room. To do this, use light shades, simple lines in patterns, a minimum of decorative elements. You can play with contrast by using light walls and dark floors.

Bathroom in modern style

• For style, use pastel colors: blue, lilac, coral, cream. You can make a partial division of the wall: at first, medium-sized tiles of light colors, and above - wooden panels. Plain tiles, decorate with borders with floral ornaments.
• High tech. A characteristic difference for this style is the monochrome wall covering and the lack of decoration. Basic colors: white, black, beige, brown, silver.

Mosaic in the bathroom

A distinctive feature from tiles is the ability to create colorful panels on the entire wall. Most often, a floral or floral ornament is used for the bathroom. With the help of mosaics, “accent walls” are created - for example, lay out an original geometric pattern or a color panel on the side where the bath is installed.

Mosaic in the bathroom

It is not necessary to use a mosaic for laying out drawings, lay out a wall with mosaics of different shades: blue, turquoise or green in a chaotic manner. Even a narrow strip of multi-colored pieces will create an unusual and bright look, as well as increase the height of the room.

Using our tips, you can create your own unique design or make it easier for yourself when choosing a ready-made option. As a result, you will get a cozy room that will be beautiful and fashionable, and with the right choice of tiles and installation method, you can hide the flaws of the room and emphasize your own style.

How to lay tiles: video

Laying tiles in the bathroom: photo

During a major overhaul, it is necessary to update the surface of the flooring. One of the most common options is the laying of ceramic tiles. So, after acquiring the required amount of such a building material, you need to choose those methods for the floor that you like.

In this case, experts recommend paying great attention to the shape and dimensions of the room in which the material is supposed to be laid. Initially, it is worth carrying out preliminary work to prepare the floor surface for laying ceramics. For this it is worth:

1. Clean the surface of paint and loose parts.
2. Make a floor screed in order to create the most even surface.
3. The final stage of the preparatory work will be the priming of the surface.

Based on the selected installation option, a ceramic count must be performed. At the same time, experts recommend making a margin of 10%. By the way, do not forget to take into account the distance between the individual elements, in other words, the seam.

The following tiling options are available:

• traditional way;
• diagonal option;
• method "out of the way";
• laying "herringbone";
• modular ;
• laying ceramic tiles with a shift.

Traditional Options

The traditional method of laying ceramic tiles is considered basic. After all, his scheme does not imply a special idea, assuming the layout of ceramic elements as close as possible to each other parallel to the surface of the walls. Preferably, such a method requires the use of tiles in the form of a square or rectangle.

The chess layout of the tiles looks interesting on the floor.

This installation method is considered the simplest. After all, its implementation does not imply a high professional level, and therefore it is within the power of an ordinary person. To make traditional styling more colorful and spectacular, it is necessary to use several colors of ceramics. This is the only way to achieve the play of color and imagination.

To obtain a good result during the laying process, it is necessary to carefully perform horizontal and vertical seams.

All work must be done as evenly as possible. In this case, you can use both overall units of the tile, and tiny analogues. As for the color scheme, in this case, you can use plain ceramics. It is also great to combine it with a small amount of ornamental tiles.

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1. Facing the wall surface must begin only from the second row. The bottom row should be the final one. At the same time, in conditions of need, the excess should be cut. This is a must if the floor surface is uneven. After all, the wrong start of laying can cause distortion of the horizontal of the circuit, and at the top it will be very noticeable. Moreover, all rows of ceramic tiles will look crooked.
2. Laying ceramics must be done only from the center of the wall surface, and in no case from the corner. This is done so that all rows look the most identical. And not on one side the tile was intact, but on the other - trimmed. If the laying work starts from the middle, then even if you have to cut the tile, it will be identical at the edges, cut off on both sides.

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Diagonal ornament

The basic way of laying ceramic tiles is considered the main one for any subsequent ornament, one of which is diagonal. It belongs to the most complex, but very beautiful and original methods of laying ceramics.

The peculiarity of this ornament is that its scheme is turned over at an angle of 45 degrees to the wall. In this case, it is recommended to use a tile in the form of a square, preferably monophonic. The difficulty lies in the fact that each piece of ceramics that adjoins the walls is cut. And this significantly increases the time for construction work and a lot of waste is obtained.

On the other hand, guided by this method of laying tiles, you can effectively hide any floor irregularities and visually significantly expand the space of the room. The most successful use of the diagonal method in the kitchen and in the corridor of the apartment (house). And for the bathroom - it's perfect.

In this case, it is very important to correctly calculate the materials, especially if a checkerboard layout pattern is used in the future.

Before proceeding directly to the work of laying tiles, it is necessary to prepare the floor surface. So, it is necessary to carefully clean the base of the floor from the remnants of the previous coating material. It can be linoleum, bitumen or wooden elements. For weak and especially absorbent places, it is also necessary to pre-prime the surface. After all, a flat floor surface facilitates the construction work on laying ceramics and saves a lot of special adhesive for tiles. If the floor is being repaired in the bathroom, it is additionally recommended to waterproof the base.

Getting started on diagonal laying does not require much effort. After all, the tile is laid in a direct way using rectangular ceramic elements whose length is equal to the diagonal of square ceramic tiles. The latter are the main ones in the process of construction work.

Then, using previously prepared tiles in the shape of a triangle, the second row is laid along the hypotenuse. As for the subsequent rows, it is recommended to lay them according to the following patterns:

1. Guided by the method of the horizontal row, the upper and lower corners must be placed in a straight vertical line. Whereas on a straight horizontal there will be side corners.
2. The slanted row is considered to be a very difficult “diagonal” laying method. After all, only a specialist is capable of producing it, a beginner cannot do it.

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Ornament "on the run"

A fairly popular option is considered to be an imitation of brickwork called “off-the-shoulder”. In this case, it is best to use a plain rectangular tile. Although square ceramic tiles will also work.

Laying a pattern imitating brick will look good in the hallway and kitchen. And at the same time, it does not matter where it will be located, on the floor or on the walls. After all, the originality of the room now does not occupy.

In the process of laying each element of ceramic tiles on the floor, it must be positioned in such a way that the middle is always above the seam that separates the units of the bottom row. In this case, laying "in a row" is carried out only by the method of horizontal laying. There can be no other option.

The technology of this kind of laying ceramics is not much different from the basic method. In this case, it is only necessary to carefully maintain the thickness of each seam, so as not to end up with a run in the corners.

The main feature of laying ceramic tiles on the floor “in a row” is the further method of facing. After all, it is the diagonal lining that will look more refined and spectacular. But this installation option involves placing the tiles at an angle of 45º with respect to the floor surface. For a clear control of the implementation of tasks, it is best to use a mooring cord.

In order to get a high-quality floor as a result, it is recommended to first place lighthouse slabs in the corners.

Tile is considered one of the most popular finishing materials because it is not only durable and practical, but also unpretentious in masonry, it is great for both walls and floors. But in order for the material to show itself in all its glory, it is necessary to choose the best option for its installation, here it is necessary to take into account the size and shape of the room. In this case, the surface must be perfectly flat, if there are irregularities, recesses or roughness, they will need to be plastered and primed. Depending on the method of laying tiles on the floor, it is necessary to purchase material with a margin (10% more than required), here it is very important to make the correct calculations, not forgetting the inter-tile seams. What are the ways of laying tiles?

What is this article about

Traditional tiling option

Traditional - this is the type of laying tiles on the floor, which is the simplest and most popular. It is classic because it fits any interior and always looks appropriate. In this case, ceramic calculations are located as close and parallel to each other as possible, they are laid in even rows.

Here it is necessary to act as smoothly as possible, because the quality and appearance of the entire repair will depend on this, if even small irregularities were noticed during masonry, they must be corrected immediately, so as not to redo the entire floor again, spending additional financial resources, effort and time on this .

For the traditional way of laying tiles, square material is best, but now the rectangular shape is gaining popularity, which also looks very beautiful. A highlight in the classic version of laying can be brought by tiles of different colors, with which you can lay out the original pattern.

The advantage of this type of layout of tiles on the floor is its simplicity and speed, which will save not only time, but also money, it is the most optimal for seamless ceramics. But it must be remembered that when choosing it, you need to carefully select the tiles, because even small defects will be striking and spoil the entire design of the room. At the same time, such a lining looks a bit monotonous.

As for the laying technology, everything is very simple here, this will not require special skills and knowledge, and it will be possible to do without professional workers. The main thing is to work evenly and slowly so that all horizontal and vertical dimensions of the seams are observed.

Diagonal tile laying

Diagonal is a styling option that is considered the most original and beautiful, but at the same time the most difficult. It is based on the principles of basic tile laying. In order for the laid tile layer to turn out to be beautiful and of high quality, it is necessary to ensure the correct marking of the diagonal axes, which are a guideline for the location of the tile. It is worth noting that this is an excellent option for facing small or non-standard rooms, it will not only ennoble them, but also visually expand them.

The complexity of this method lies in the fact that a beginner who does not have special knowledge and skills is unlikely to cope with it, while significant material and time costs will be required. Of particular difficulty is that the tiles will need to be cut, therefore, when choosing it, it is best to leave the installation to a professional repair team.

All the difficulties of the diagonal option for laying floor tiles fully pay off with its advantages:

• he is very handsome and elegant;
• ensures the durability of the floor covering;
• allows you to create an individual floor design;
• the design will turn out to be interesting, even if tiles of the same color are used;
• it provides complete concealment of curvature or any irregularities in the floor surface.

To make the pattern even, you need to place the grid at an angle of 45 degrees with respect to the floor, in this case it is best to choose the square version of the tile.

Before you start laying the material, the desired surface will need to be pre-prepared for the procedure, namely: remove the old linoleum or wood particles, clean it from building paint, dust and dirt, and then apply a primer. This will simplify the installation process, since the smoother the floor, the better any tile will lie on it, while requiring a minimum amount of adhesive solution.

Starting laying, the first row should be laid according to the traditional method, for this you need to use rectangular tiles with a diagonal length of square tiles. The second row is laid exclusively with pre-cut triangular tiles so that their hypotenuse looks down. All other rows must be laid following the diagonal principle.

Offset tiling option

Offset masonry resembles bricklaying, it is very popular among craftsmen, because the pattern is classic and concise on the one hand, and original and unusual on the other. In this case, it is monochromatic rectangular slabs that look most impressive, but you can use the traditional square one. Offset tile layout options are great for vintage or antique interiors because they convey the atmosphere of history to the maximum. With their help, you can hide small irregularities and roughness of the floor covering.

You can lay tiles in the form of brickwork in the kitchen or in the corridor, where it will look most appropriate and original.

It is necessary to begin installation with laying beacon tiles, which should be located in the corners of the floor covering. This procedure makes it possible to determine the level of the floor. After that, without fail, it will be necessary to wet the screed with water and proceed to laying the plates on a pre-prepared solution.

It is worth noting that the laying process is carried out only in horizontal lines, while each individual slab of the next row must lie so that its middle is at the level of the seam of the previous row. When the floor is completely laid, it should be leveled using a hammer, and then the lighthouse slabs should be removed. After 2-3 days have passed, you can start working with the seams, they must be filled with a mortar or cement mixture.

The option of laying out floor tiles with an offset is not much different from the traditional option. What you need to remember in this case is the same thickness of the seams, it must be maintained without fail, because otherwise the floor may turn out to be uneven.

Herringbone tiling option

You can lay the slabs in an original way using the "herringbone" method, which assumes that the ceramics will take the form of parquet. For this, it is better to use a material of exactly a rectangular shape, because only with its help it will be possible to create a "herringbone". In this case, the masonry can be laid in two ways:

• parquet option;
• "Christmas tree" method with prikper elements, for this you will need additional tiles of a different color or small mosaic tiles.

To create a herringbone flooring, it is better to choose wood-imitated ceramics, because it will look as natural as possible. It is worth noting that stone coloring in this case is not recommended, as it looks ridiculous and inappropriate.

When laying the tiles, you need to turn it first to the left and then to the right, based on the diagonal arrangement of the tiles. Laid out in this way, the floor leaves behind a minimum of debris and waste.

Modular tiling option

The floor laid in a modular way looks very unusual and original, it will become the highlight of the whole room, but in order to recreate it correctly, you first need to design a sketch. Now on the market you can buy ready-made sets of plates with all the diagrams and instructions, this will be a great find for beginners.

This method is best suited for small spaces. In this case, it is necessary to clearly repeat the pattern, while it can be created from several plates or simply applied to 1 large tile.

All of the above types of tiling are original and very beautiful, everyone will be able to choose the right option for their interior and design solution.

If the question arises about laying floor tiles in an apartment, then to an unenlightened layman it may seem that this process is complicated. This opinion is especially supported by the fact that a meter of cladding performed by a master is not cheap. In fact, laying tiles on the floor is much simpler: it is only important to know all the stages of the process and some of the subtleties of the layout used by experienced craftsmen.

Peculiarities

Tiles are a popular finishing material for flooring. This raw material is presented on the building materials market in a wide range, but it is different and has its own characteristics.

For example, not every layman knows that floor tiles are several different materials that are important to use strictly for their types of surfaces. The reason for this is the different characteristics of strength and weight load.

The texture of floor tiles can be glossy, matte or polished. Recently, brands have been offering the attention of buyers to anti-slip lining, the texture of which is rough to the touch. This material is more difficult to maintain, but it does not injure users, which makes these floor tiles more in demand than others.

If we compare the sizes, they can be different: in some types of floor cladding, the parameters of the fragments are quite large and can reach a length of 60 cm or more, and for rectangular elements that imitate the laying of parquet, the length can be one meter or more.

A unique feature of the tile of large enterprises is the serial production of companion fragments. This allows you to decorate the surface of the floor and walls with the same color and pattern. Matching a companion to the floor tiles in tone and pattern is its advantage. At the same time, three types of material are often used in the design: plain, contrasting and with a pattern to accentuate a certain area.

The rules for laying tiles are quite simple, and following them will allow you to carry out repairs with high quality.

Types of tiles

To date, a wide range of offered tile products for floor repair can be divided into two types according to the production method: pressed and extruded. The first is obtained by pressing a plastic mixture of the charge. In this case, the mass is placed in a press, shaped and fired. The second type is produced by forcing the mass through special holes, giving it a shape, and then cutting and firing.

Existing varieties can be divided into several types:

• Porcelain tile. The basis of this tile contains kaolin and quartz. Its structure is homogeneous, similar to glass. Such material is used for finishing the floor of industrial facilities, as well as places with intense loads.
• Porous. This variety is characterized by high moisture absorption: the greater the absorption, the higher the porosity of the material. It is used for interior surface decoration.

• Metlakhskaya. This variety is performed by the method of one firing with pressing. Unlike other analogues, it is dyed through, similar in properties to porcelain stoneware and can be used for indoor and outdoor work.
• Ceramic. The difference of this category of cladding is a coating of colored glass, due to which it receives hardness, water resistance and the presence of halftones. Glazed tiles are distinguished by the presence of a layer of enamel, while unglazed tiles have a uniform texture.

• Cotto. A variety of this tile is distinguished by the absence of enamel. The thickness of the material can reach 3 cm, it consists of a porous filler. With complex care, this option looks quite impressive.
• Monocottura. A kind of material with a dense structure and low moisture absorption. You can use tiles for decorating the floor indoors and outdoors, including for finishing the facade.

• Bikotura. Analogue of the previous tile. Made by double firing and has an enamelled surface.
• Clinker. A material obtained from clay of several types, supplemented with dyes and other additives. A fairly durable tile, environmentally friendly and inert to chemicals. Suitable for indoor and outdoor flooring.

Porcelain stoneware varieties differ from tiled wall tiles in terms of wear: they are more durable and are used to finish the floor of bathrooms, corridors, kitchens, hallways, living rooms, bay areas and even bedrooms. Such material is marked in the form of a foot depicted on a black background. If in the schematic drawing the background has hatching, then this type of material is also distinguished by increased wear resistance.

The dimensions of the tiles can be small (20x30, 20x40 cm) and large: some fragments reach a length of 80 cm and a width of 40 cm.

Masonry schemes

Today, there are many ways of laying floor tiles. Below are the main techniques that allow you to lay tiles stylishly and beautifully.

• traditional method- this is the simplest laying method, in which the fragments are placed close to each other with the formation of crosshairs. The work uses fragments of a square shape, although this method is also suitable for finishing the surface with a long rectangular tile.

This version of the cladding will look interesting if there are inserts with a pattern among the monochromatic fragments, or details of different shades will be used in the work.

• Diagonal (rhombus) way- This is one of the most difficult ways to design surfaces. Despite the basic technique of execution, the complexity of the diamond-shaped method lies in the need to mark the guides and the obligatory trimming of the dies along the edges.

The advantage of this method is the masking of the irregularities of the pasted surface. When performing finishing work, tiles are laid at an angle of 45 degrees. The shape of the plates should be square.

• Offset (deck). It is not difficult to glue tiles on the floor in this way. It is somewhat similar to brickwork: the tile is shifted by half the length of the side face. In this method, there will be no crosshairs, and it is better to choose a rectangular tile, since in this case it will look more interesting than a square one.

The advantage is the hiding of small irregularities of the treated surfaces, as well as a boring appearance.

This method has other names: "in a checkerboard pattern", "in a run". Such a coating will look beautiful in the interior of a kitchen or corridor. To make it flawless, you will have to mark up and mark the center of the side face on each plate. The technique has several varieties: in addition to shifting by half the length of the tile, the shift is carried out by 1/3, randomly, as well as diagonally randomly, by half and a third.

• "Herringbone"- This is a type of parquet masonry, during which rectangular floor tiles are used. If you have styling skills, then this method can be diversified by adding additional small tiles to the pattern in the form of a mosaic or inserts from elements of a contrasting shade.

Such a cladding looks more effective if a material with imitation wood is used in the decoration. In the process of work, the fragments alternately turn left and right, placing the structure diagonally.

• Modular. This method is one of the most difficult and resembles the laying of parquet in the form of an ornament. The work can use materials of different shapes and sizes, as well as combine square fragments with narrow components. At the same time, the direction of narrow parts is different: the seams can be located perpendicularly.

Particularly interesting in the decoration is the use of small elements of a contrasting color, located in the center, framed by long narrow details.

• Modular with shift. This styling option is within the power of experienced craftsmen. In drawing up the pattern, the joints do not match, the direction of the pattern is diagonal. To carry out such a design, you will have to carefully mark the surface, adjusting the center of the tile pattern to the center of the plane to be trimmed. In work, it is preferable to use plain tiles without decor or varieties with a wood texture.

Using this method for finishing the floor, it is necessary to calculate the angle of 45 degrees when marking.

In addition to the main options, a good solution is to combine two different styles, which allows you to bring novelty into a boring interior, give the space an individuality. For example, by combining classic and diamond-shaped styling, you can lay out a carpet pattern on the floor surface. It will be especially interesting if you decorate the finishing accent with a border of identical width.

What to put on?

Finishing work with floor tiles is possible on surfaces of various types. For example, it could be a concrete floor. In this case, the novelty of the surface matters. If the concrete is poured in less than three months, it is unacceptable to lay tiles on it: stretching is possible during the drying of the concrete, so cracks will appear on the finished cladding.

When laying material on an old base, it is important to remove old paint and grease stains from it. You can lay tiles on plywood, drywall, GVL (plasterboard fiber) and cement-concrete screed.

It is undesirable to lay new material on the old tile, since, firstly, the height of the walls will decrease, and secondly, there is a possibility of chipping on the old tile and the danger of it moving away from the surface. A poor base cannot provide a high-quality and durable floor covering.

materials

During the laying process, a primer, tile adhesive, special crosses and wedges are used, and a self-leveling mixture is used to level the floor in preparation for finishing.

Primer

This material is a reinforcing composition, through which the base of the floor acquires uniformity. Usually it is used to prepare the floor for facing. In the modern construction market, the primer is sold in the form of a powder or a ready-made solution. In the first case, it is possible to adjust the consistency, and the second option is suitable for beginners: it already has the ideal proportions for processing the surface of the base. The primer has a penetrating ability and is sold in containers with a volume of 5 and 10 liters.

Due to penetration into the thickness of the base, the primer fills microcracks, pores, binds even dust. In some cases, this composition evens out minor plane defects. After application and drying, a fine crystalline film forms on the surface, which contributes to the maximum adhesion of the tile to the floor.

The use of this soil is especially appropriate where construction was carried out in violation of technological processes. This can be seen from the surface from which sand falls off during cleaning.

For work, you need to use a deep penetration primer. At the same time, it is important that it be of high quality and fresh: expired material loses its properties. There is a wide range of such materials on the market.

A worthy choice is acrylic primer. If the area to be treated is large, it makes sense to purchase a primer in the form of a powder or a solution of 10 liters.

Primer consumption, according to the manufacturer, is approximately 9 square meters. m per 1 litre. However, in reality, this indicator rarely coincides with the real one - it's all about the absorbency of the base. Often, soil consumption increases one and a half, or even two times. Of course, priming is expensive, but this preparation will ensure the durability of the floor covering.

Glue

Tile adhesive is a special composition that can be:

• cement;
• epoxy;
• dispersion;
• polyurethane.

Depending on the type, it is produced in the form of a ready-made pasty mixture or a powdery consistency. The first modification is sold in standard buckets. It stands out for its homogeneous structure, economical consumption and good adhesion. The composition is quite high-quality: such glue will help to cope with the processing of difficult areas. However, it is the high cost that does not allow using it for laying the entire area.

The basis of dry mixes is cement. Such varieties consist of Portland cement, sand and modifying inclusions. The plasticizers included in its composition make the mass fluid and plastic. In addition, the components of such adhesive mixtures are moisture-retaining and frost-resistant additives.

The two-component composition is made of epoxy resin and hardener, which makes it durable and resistant to weight loads. Such glue perfectly connects the tile to the base of wood and metal.

Dispersions are sold in the form of a paste, which must be stirred before use. They are based on acrylic, latex, polyvinyl acetate and water dispersion. Polyurethane adhesive is elastic: this composition will allow you to glue the tile to the metal. However, during the curing process, some of these compositions may expand, so their use for ceramics is not always possible.

By properties, tile adhesive can be:

• universal, which is designed for different types of repairs;
• reinforced, designed for especially large tiles;
• moisture resistant, produced for finishing rooms with a high degree of humidity;
• transparent, made on the basis of white cement for facing surfaces with transparent and translucent tiles, as well as mosaics;
• for outdoor work, intended for rooms in which there is no heating.

In addition, there are also narrow-profile varieties (for example, a solution for underfloor heating). Usually the composition of the adhesive is designed in such a way that it is enough just to mix the mass well, because the structure of the material is homogeneous and balanced.

It is important to follow the instructions, which will allow you to achieve the desired consistency, in which the adhesive mass will not spread on the floor, soaking into the base.

Adhesive consumption depends on the preparation of the substrate. If it is insufficient, then part of the glue will go to leveling. However, it should be borne in mind that this material is not a floor leveler or an alternative to screed - using it instead of a leveler with a large layer thickness is fraught with a violation of quality work. The composition itself is distinguished by the possibility of adjusting the styling. In case of non-levelling, there is always the possibility of weakening the adhesion with water.

crosses

This consumable is necessary so that the distance between the tiles is identical. Crosses are sold in hardware stores, they are cheap and vary in width. Their choice cannot be random: the larger the tile, the larger the size of the crosses must be selected.

The practicality of the facing fabric and its aesthetic perception depend on the choice of this auxiliary material. The minimum size can lead to the fact that the irregularities of the side edges of the tile will be emphasized, and the large distance of the seams will visually spoil the whole work.

For example, a good solution for tiles measuring 20x20, 20x30, 20x40 cm would be to use crosses sized 1.5, 2 mm. At the same time, it is worth keeping in mind a small nuance: when filling the joints with grout, they will visually appear wider. This is due to the shape of the side faces of each fragment. If the width of the cross is 2 mm, then the finished seam will appear at least 1-1.5 mm thicker. The final thickness also depends on the master's tool: if the excess grout is removed deeper, then the seam is smoother and thinner. When superficially removing excess grout, the width may be affected by a different level, unevenness or sloping shape of the edge.

Wedges

Such elements are made of plastic, and are used together with crosses. In the case of a slight mismatch along the line, this consumable allows you to align the entire row. Its convenience is the shape: it allows you to squeeze the wedge to the desired thickness, while the part rises to the required height. The wedges are removed after the tile adhesive dries.

Such an auxiliary material is especially appropriate in hard-to-reach areas of the cladding. It is rarely used for flooring.

Rovnitel

Using a floor leveler allows you to simplify the installation process, making the floor surface of high quality, smooth and beautiful. Self-leveling compounds are dry mortars weighing 25 kg, which are sold in bags in hardware stores. During the preparation of the base, this material is diluted with water, the amount of which the manufacturer indicates on the package (approximately 7 liters). The life cycle of the composition does not exceed half an hour - during this time it must be distributed over the floor surface. The mixing method does not differ from tile adhesive: a drill with a mixing nozzle is also used for this.

A distinctive feature of this material is the need to use a spiked roller when leveling. This is important to rid the composition distributed over the surface of air bubbles. For normal drying of the composition, a positive temperature is required: at least 5-10 degrees. If you ignore the temperature regime, this will affect the alignment result.

Instruments

To carry out the installation of floor tiles, you can not do without several devices.

The standard set for preparation and styling includes:

• roller for priming the surface;
• container for primer;
• flat brush for priming;
• tape measure (metal ruler), angle;
• pencil for marking;
• drill with nozzles for kneading glue;
• tile cutter, "Bulgarian";
• building level;

• container for mixing tile adhesive;
• wire cutters (for curvilinear cutting of tiles);
• file (for processing the cut edge);
• notched trowel;
• spatula or trowel for applying glue to the surface;
• container for mixing grout;
• rubber spatula for rubbing seams;
• bucket, sponge and rag.

In addition, it is worth buying gloves and knee pads, since the adhesive composition can get on clothes and skin during the lining process.

Foundation preparation

Preparing the surface for laying tiles with your own hands is easy. Initially, the work area is vacated. To do this, all furniture is taken out of the room - this will save it from construction dust generated during finishing work.

The base must be flat, clean and dry - any unevenness will cause the fragments to be glued at different levels.

The best option for the base is a concrete screed. However, it is also good to glue the material on wooden surfaces, fiberboard and even old tiles. Although not all craftsmen consider this finishing process appropriate, because such a coating is unreliable.

Initially, tubercles are removed from the floor surface, gaps are covered, and the difference is leveled. Then a self-leveling mixture is used, which is a special solution that spreads over the floor surface. Such a composition usually has a gypsum base, although analogues on the cement component can be found in production. The difference in the compositions lies in the magnitude of the difference. For small differences (up to 1 cm), gypsum mixtures are used, which are intended for leveling the floor in dry rooms. The second option is able to make the floor straight and even, the difference of which is about 5 cm.

Before leveling, once again get rid of debris, then they check whether all the cracks are smeared: if even one small gap remains, the solution can leak, creating an emergency for the neighbors below. After cleaning the floor, the surface is treated with a primer using a roller with a long handle. The use of a handle will allow you to make the swing of the roller large, which will significantly save time on surface treatment.

For the treatment of hard-to-reach places with a primer, use a flat brush. It will allow you to cover complex areas with a primer neatly, without overspending raw materials. After the surface is covered with soil, it is left to dry completely and only then they begin to level the floor with a leveler.

Before using the mixture for an uneven floor, beacon self-tapping screws are mounted in the base, exposing them to a level in order to have a guideline for the thickness of the layer. To level the floor, the mixed mortar is poured from the bucket onto the floor and spread with a special wide spatula. In this case, the consistency of the composition should be sufficient for spreading. Depending on the thickness of the layer, it dries in different ways: it can take from a day to several days.

Using a leveler for laying the floor allows you to achieve the same amount of glue under each fragment.

If you need to prepare the floor in the bathroom, then perform a slight slope. In this case, it should be from the bath to the door. It is important to consider that the floor level in the bathroom should be lower than in the hallway. This approach is done on the basis of practical considerations: in the event of flooding, water will not flow into other rooms. Preparing the floor for finishing the shower room, perform a slope to the drain hole.

The last preparatory step before gluing the tiles to the floor is to apply another layer of primer on top of the leveler. While it dries, you can calibrate the fragments in height and angles.

It is unacceptable to apply glue on wet soil: tile adhesive will prevent the formation of a film. The drying time of the soil is indicated on the package, but the masters advise to wait a day.

markup

Marking is a necessary stage of finishing work. It allows you to lay out the floor tiles as harmoniously as possible for perception. At the same time, whole fragments are used for a more visible area, trimming is left for corners and less relevant places. It is especially important when the finish involves a decorative insert.

For example, it can be an imitation of a carpet located in the center of the room, or a panel in the free area of ​​the bathroom. In these cases, it is important to place the pattern correctly, otherwise, in the finished canvas, its movement can create an imbalance in the situation.

It may seem to a beginner that this process does not matter if you start laying from the corner in the easiest way. Indeed, the method is simple and, in the absence of a broken perspective, the surface can look beautiful. However, in most cases, laying must be thought out, so it is more difficult to start lining without marking. You can simply draw a sketch by doing calculations, schematically indicating the location of each fragment in the figure. But drawing lines on the plane itself is more reliable.

For example, if it is planned to finish the floor with a pattern or decorative inserts from individual tiles, then the symmetry of the cladding is important, which is difficult to imagine without marking, because it takes into account the direction, size of the print, the dimensions of the canvas with adjustment in length and width.

This stage will allow you to understand how much material is needed (number of fragments). Of course, you can make a calculation by multiplying the length by the width of the area planned for finishing, and add, just in case, a few dies to the total number upon purchase. However, the calculation is often accompanied by the alignment of the first tile with the center of the floor or wall, which makes it possible to obtain trimmings identical in size on each side, and in the case of laying with a shift, to understand how many centimeters it is better to shift the tile (especially important for brick and modular laying).

How to cut tiles?

When performing laying, you can not do without trimming the tiles. In fact, this process is not so complicated. Experts recommend that for a better cut, immediately before cutting, prepare the tile by soaking it in water for 1 hour. After the plate has been in the water long enough, it will become pliable. Therefore, cutting it yourself will be easy.

The glass cutter can only cut wall tiles. The one that is produced for flooring should be cut with a tile cutter. This feature is explained by the different diameter of the rotating wheel, which is larger for the tile cutter.

Another nuance is the difficulty of trimming a line located less than 1 cm to the edge of the fragment. If you need to make a hole in the shape of a circle or semicircle, use a special tool called a "ballerina".

To prevent the formation of cracks when making a hole, the glaze must be removed from the surface. This is done by light tapping with a hammer with the blunt side. Then you need to drill a hole using a hand drill. It can be made figured with the help of tongs for cutting metal.

Laying process

After the surface has been prepared and the primer has dried, laying begins. The technology for laying tiles is simple: you need to prepare tools, glue and the tile itself. The solution is mixed in the proportions indicated on the package. After the first portion is mixed, it is left for 10-15 minutes, then stirred again to obtain a homogeneous pasty mass. Installation can be carried out based on detailed step-by-step instructions.

Glue is applied to the prepared base. To do this, use a trowel or a special grater with a smooth and serrated side. The choice of such a tool is based on the size of the tile itself: the larger it is, the larger the teeth of the grater should be.

If the laying is carried out according to the markup, then you should not put a lot of glue on the grater, especially for the process of gluing the first fragment to the base (the markup does not need to be covered). At the same time, the pasty composition is collected on the smooth side, and the toothed side is distributed over the surface, removing excess material. The same is done with the tile detail itself.

You should not clean the glue with a notched grater to the base: it must be on the entire plane, otherwise the tile will stick worse. They do the same with a fragment of the cladding: apply glue with a trowel, spatula or grater, and then distribute and remove the excess. However, in this case, the direction of the notched side of the grater is perpendicular to that on the floor. This will allow the adhesive to spread more evenly under the tile without leaving any air pockets.

The tile is not easily applied to the surface - it must be gently pressed to the base, slightly shifting in different directions, then laid in place corresponding to the markings. This will eliminate a loose fit, due to which the tile will hold better.

Now it is worth considering an important nuance: when pressing the tile to the base, you can not press hard so as not to break the dies. For example, for the same purpose, floor tiles can be lightly tapped with a rubber mallet in the direction from the center to the edges of the cladding details.

When pressing the tile to the surface, it is worth controlling the direction of the coating. To do this, a level is applied to each stacked fragment and the evenness of the surface is assessed. If the preparation is done well, then this process will not show deviations.

If there are irregularities, then you will have to correct the tile, pulling it towards you or pressing more other details into the glue. As a result of constant control, the surface will be flawless.

If alignment is ignored, then protruding areas can chip off over time, cause discomfort when walking, and make it difficult to care for the surface.

Working with crosses

Performing floor cladding, crosses are stuck into each crosshair. This consumable is disposable and does not accept savings: there are many such items in each package. This material is inexpensive: about 25-40 rubles.

In the process of work, tile glue gets on each cross. Therefore, saving crosses and removing them for laying the next row is fraught with an increase in the distance between the tiles. In addition, premature removal of such elements may cause the lining to shift. The crosses must be removed after the tile adhesive has completely dried.

It may seem to a beginner that the crosses can be left inside the cladding, but their presence will cause poor-quality grouting. Moreover, after removing this material, the voids between the tiles should be cleaned up so that the grout is easy evenly and evenly, without bumps and pits.

In the process of work, do not push the crosses too far. Moreover, it is important to consider that for an identical distance they must be tightly threaded between the dies.

How and with what to overwrite the seams?

Laying the cladding is an exciting process. However, at the end of the work, the surface seems unfinished: it lacks an aesthetic appearance. In this case, a special mixture called grout is used. It is a powdered material packed in small bags. The grout is intended for the final finishing of the facing fabric and giving the seams an attractive appearance.

The grout fills the voids between the tiles. It is diluted with water at room temperature in the proportions indicated on the package. If you need a little composition, then the consistency should resemble pasta or thick sour cream. It is applied with a rubber spatula, filling all holes and gaps, removing excess mixture.

If the processing area is large, then it is worth using a special trowel to fill the joints.

If excess grout remains on the surface of the tile, then it is removed within half an hour, without touching the seams. Finishing washing can be done after the grout has set. Do this with a regular sponge or dry flannel rag.

If a liquid grout composition was used in the work, then it is worth waiting a little longer, otherwise, along with the excess material, the mass from the seams will be erased from the surface. Seams are a sore point of tile cladding, as they are exposed to moisture and dirt even after they have been rubbed.

How long does it dry?

The drying time of the adhesive depends on the type of mixture used, the thickness of the layer and the place of application. The temperature in the room also matters. There is an opinion that you can use the grout after 6-7 hours after the end of the installation. In fact, the composition will only have time to grab, but not dry.

Failure to comply with technology and haste will lead to the fact that the fragments may lag behind the surface. It is not necessary to shorten the time interval between drying and grouting, as well as in the case of floor tiles. Here, it will take twice as long to dry as it takes to dry wall-mounted varieties. You can walk on the floor no earlier than after a few days (ideally - 7 days). If the room is cool, then drying time may take even longer.

In order for the floor surface to look professional, it is worth considering a number of recommendations from experienced craftsmen, from the choice of material to grouting.

When choosing a tile

When choosing a material, it is worth considering its strength class. For example, for the floor it is better to select varieties of at least class 3. They are massive, heavy, resistant to mechanical stress, accidental impacts. The thickness of such material is from 8 to 13 mm. For areas with greater traffic, it is worth purchasing varieties with greater thickness.

It is worth paying attention to the invoice. For the floor, it is better to choose a lining with a slight ribbing - this will prevent slipping, although it will complicate wet cleaning of the coating.

It is undesirable to use glossy floor tiles: they give out any pollution, can cause a fall (especially if the surface is wet after cleaning).

When buying a facing material, it is worth opening each pack of tiles and looking through them for the identity of shades, side lengths and patterns. It is also necessary to pay attention to the batch number - this will avoid inconsistencies in color and size. To evaluate the quality, it is necessary to attach two tiles to each other: the fit must be tight without gaps.

It is not necessary to inspect each tile in this way, it is enough to do it selectively. When buying, you should take into account the marriage during transportation and installation, so you need to add 10-15% to the required amount.

The choice of dimension must be made based on the footage of the room: the larger the room, the larger the details can be. If you buy a material measuring 60x60 cm for finishing a small room, then the space will visually become smaller. If you want to perform laying in a non-standard way, using rectangular tiles with small inserts, then it makes sense to calculate the material in the store using an online calculator or with the help of a sales assistant. Do not forget to include borders, plinth and special corners in the layout, if they are needed during installation.

When choosing a finishing material, it is necessary to take into account the manufacturer - this will avoid large flaws in the calibration of the material, which will simplify the fitting of each workpiece. Manufacturers who care about reputation produce high-quality facing material through which you can perform work without much difficulty and alignment.

It will not be superfluous to study reviews about a particular manufacturer. It is worth scrolling through the comments of the masters about working with the cladding of the brands you like - this will allow you to understand the complexity of finishing in work, to evaluate its quality and performance characteristics.

You should not take creative varieties of material with a large relief for the floor: such a tile looks original, but you will quickly get tired of walking on it daily, and it will not be possible to make repeated repairs.

When preparing the glue

A few tips for choosing glue:

• Glue must be diluted correctly, not forgetting that the vital activity of the composition is small. It is bred in small portions - so it does not have time to dry out in case of slowing down the facing process and constant adjustments.
• Do not use expired raw materials. When buying building materials, you need to pay attention to the release date: expired glue does not give a 100% guarantee of a high-quality and durable coating.

• Do not mix the solution with hot water, as this will lead to the loss of the properties of the tile adhesive.
• To enhance its characteristics, it is better to buy PVA glue and add it to the composition. Such a correction will add strength to the adhesive and enhance the adhesion of the tile to the surface to be glued.
• Tile adhesive can be thin-layer and thick-layer. If you need to level the surface during the laying process, you should use the second option in your work. Polymer additives of such raw materials give it strength and allow you to even out the difference of the order of one centimeter.
• If it is difficult to give preference to a particular brand, you should take a closer look at the products of Eunice and Ceresit. Both manufacturers have a good reputation, and this glue is highly appreciated by professional craftsmen.

When laying

A few tips for laying tiles:

• When laying floor tiles, do not forget to remove the plinth and door trim from the floor. If it is not possible to remove the platbands, then it is necessary to carry out the lining as carefully as possible: so that the tile adhesive does not get on them.
• It is important to draw the center lines of the room, while determining the centers of the opposite sides of the walls.
• Laying should be done along the guide lines. This is especially important if the parquet cladding method is used in the work.
• If during the laying of the flooring there is a small gap to the wall, then there is no need to glue a thin strip - you can hide the flaw with a plinth.
• When cladding a space with certain objects, for example, a fireplace or a bathroom, you need to surround them around the perimeter with whole fragments. If you want to highlight them, then you should choose a contrasting tile of a different tone or pattern for this.

Excess adhesive that has fallen on the surface must be removed immediately: after the composition dries, it will be more difficult to do this. If laying is carried out on old tiles, then for maximum adhesion it is worth treating the surface of old ceramics with a grinder or sandpaper. After that, the base must be vacuumed, washed, dried and primed. Then it is important to level it with a self-levelling compound.

If laying is carried out on the “warm floor” system, then the floor heating must be turned off two days before the start of finishing work. In the case of such installation, it is important to purchase a special adhesive with a high content of elastic polymers. The use of this composition will eliminate further deformation of the base associated with constant heating. At the same time, heating can be turned on two to three days after the joints are processed with grout.

If the adhesive sticks to the trowel or spatula during laying, then the tool can be moistened with water. You should not use a lot of glue when inserting crosses into it: in this case, removing them will be problematic. When laying the floor, do not put pressure on the newly laid tile with your knees - this will change the plane.

In order not to go astray with the direction of the tiles when laying, it is worth looking at the back side of each fragment: you can rely on the applied manufacturer's logo. If it is not there, then you can independently mark it with a simple pencil before laying, for example, at the end.

When grouting

A few tips for grouting:

• If the grout has dried during the grouting process, do not scrape it off with a metal spatula - this will lead to scratches on the surface. This should be done with a damp sponge.
• If the design is designed to finish the joints with colored grout, but this color is not on sale, then you should use the usual color scheme: it mixes well with white grout, forms a homogeneous mass and allows you to make seams of any tone.
• When choosing the right color, it is worth taking note: the shade that you like will be lighter when it dries. Therefore, you need to make it a tone or two brighter.
• Over time, the seams can fade, lose their former attractiveness and brightness, and become dirty. To minimize these troubles, it is worth treating them with a special spray after the final readiness of styling.

Non-standard tricks

In addition to classic cladding, floor installation can be combined.

The tile goes well with other floor coverings. This technique allows you to connect tiles with laminate, parquet, parquet board and linoleum. By combining, you can use different materials for areas of different traffic, using tiles in places where there are more people. Such material is resistant to abrasion, furniture can be placed on it without damaging the structure.

The combination of tiles with linoleum and laminate looks stylish and unusual. It allows you to zone the space into separate functional areas, for example, dividing the living room into a guest and dining space. At the same time, the coating can be special for each area: for the kitchen, you can lay it under the carpet with an interesting ornament; for the guest area, you should choose a plain material to decorate the floor with a soft long-pile shaggy carpet.

The most relevant combination for the hallway. In this case, the entrance area should be tiled, and the surface leading to the corridor and other rooms can be made with laminate or parquet. If you perform parquet tiling under a tree, then you can use linoleum without a pattern, as it will better soften the mosaic pattern.

If you plan to finish with tiles and laminate, then it should be done in dry rooms - under the influence of moisture, the back side of the laminate can swell, which will break the connecting seam of the two materials.

What else to consider?

When choosing tiles for flooring, do not forget about the shade of the coating. Even if the room is spacious, this does not mean that saturated colors are allowed. The floor is not the accent of the room. If the coating is bright, it will draw attention from the interior composition to itself, forming a visual imbalance.

You should try to choose colors that will be appropriate in any interior., even if over time you want to change the style. You should not repeat the shade of walls or furniture - the installation is done for a long time, the wallpaper is changed more often. It is necessary to exclude tones that initially seem unacceptable.

It is preferable to choose shades that carry a positive: beige, milky, ivory, brown, coffee colors. Black color is unacceptable - it carries a negative. Being in such a room will be difficult, and over time, unbearable.

Beautiful examples

Finishing surfaces with tiles gives a lot of opportunities for interior design, which can be appreciated in the photo gallery below:

• The original reception of space zoning. Beige and brown tiles are used with an identical pattern in different areas.
• The combination of traditional and diagonal laying makes the floor interesting. The use of a border and different shades gives expressiveness to the interior.

• Imitation of a carpet with an original ornament along the edge of the finish looks unusual and adds novelty to the interior composition.
• Patchwork tiling brings character and character to the space.

• Patchwork flooring is also appropriate in the bathroom. It looks especially interesting, having support in the form of a paired wall companion.
• The use of live tiles in the decor of the floor changes the atmosphere. When walking on such a floor, the lining changes color.

• Modular finishes in bright colors look stylish and make the pale interior expressive.
• Designer tile for multi-colored wood looks stylish and fits well into the style of the loft.