How to close the gaps between the boards of the wall. How to close the gaps in the floor between the boards: cover up wooden ones, seal holes from mice, putty the seams with plywood

When making repairs, everyone faced such a problem as sealing cracks between the wall and the floor. It is necessary to do this not only for beauty and order. For example, in private houses or apartments located on the ground floors, this problem can result in the appearance of dampness, unwanted insects and drafts. Therefore, this problem must be solved immediately, without delay. First of all, you need to figure out how to close the gap between the wall and the floor.

There are quite a few options, but it all depends on the size of the cracks. This work is not difficult, but it also requires a little preparation.

With small gap sizes, up to 3 cm, you can only use mounting foam. The gap between the floor and the wall up to 1 cm wide is easily sealed with putty, gypsum or cement mortar.

If the size of the gap is larger, then you will have to close it using other materials, and approach this much more thoroughly.

In order to close the gap between the wall and the floor, you must first remove the wallpaper and, if any, remove the paint layer.

The whitewash must be washed off and then let the wall dry thoroughly.

If you hoped to close the cracks without starting even a small cosmetic repairs those hopes were in vain.

You will have to remove the baseboard as well, under it everything is also thoroughly washed and cleaned. Preparatory work are required, because otherwise sealing cracks will only disfigure your interior.

If you have new wallpapers and you do not plan to change them, then you can try to do the job of sealing the cracks carefully.

Try to cover the bottom of the wallpaper with a film, you can use food. You can fasten it with ordinary pushpins or sewing needles.

You can also use old newspapers, but this is less reliable. Since water will be used in the process and you will probably end up on the wallpaper.

If you are not going to change the wallpaper, then work with the mounting foam as carefully as possible and do not damage the wallpaper during mechanical cleaning (which is discussed below).

What is needed to close the presence of a large gap

• Pieces of brick, plastic, foam
• Mounting foam

When sealing cracks with mounting foam, do not splash out too much foam, fill the space by a third, in last resort, half, because the foam swells and increases in size several times.

To close up a very large gap between the wall and the floor, you will need pieces of brick, foam, plastic, etc.

Filling the required space with this material is the first step. It is desirable that the pieces be small in order to fill the hole itself as densely as possible, but you should not put very small debris there. The pieces should be smaller in diameter so that by pushing them into the hole, you do not increase its volume.

After that, you can fill it with mounting foam. Usage broken brick etc. helps you save mounting foam. So this option is quite economical, the funds will be spent only on the purchase of a can of mounting foam.

What is needed to close the presence of a middle gap

• moss, jute felt or tow
• caulk
• a hammer

To seal the gaps between the wall and the floor, you can use moss, jute felt or tow.

There are certain requirements for the use of these materials. For example, in no case should moss crumble, and jute felt must certainly be pre-impregnated with formalin, otherwise moths will start there.

By the way, if you use moss, then in no case should it crumble in your hands, and it is advisable to soak the felt in formalin before embedding - this way you will protect it from moths.

And besides this, you will need a small spatula, there are special caulks, but it can be replaced with any suitable spatula.

Whatever material you choose, it is more convenient to roll it into a “sausage” before placing it in the hole. Then the "sausage" is applied to the required place and hammered into it with the help of a caulk and a hammer.

The size of the "sausage" should be larger than the hole itself in order to fill it tightly enough. It is not necessary to lay the material in small pieces, this will greatly increase your work time and reduce the density, which should be very high.

After closing the hole and completely drying, you can do decorative trim. It’s good if, before starting work, you glued the wall near the holes with a self-adhesive fabric with a sickle.

By the way, instead of it, you can use another suitable fabric. Thanks to this precaution, a vapor barrier layer will form at the junction.

Of course, this process is excluded if the wallpaper is already pasted. This is another reason to start filling cracks in a timely manner.

If you are going to use mounting foam in the process of filling the gaps between the wall and the floor, then you need to know how to do it correctly.

Before applying it, be sure to moisten the gap with water for better interaction with the surface.

It is most convenient to do this with a spray bottle, but you can also use a regular spray gun, which is very easy to make from an ordinary plastic bottle.

• To do this, several holes are made in the lid, water is poured, and that's it, the sprinkler is ready.

Since the mounting foam tends to increase in volume, this must also be taken into account. By the way, thanks to good hydration, the foam increases much more actively.

The balloon is heated to about twenty degrees before use, for this, simply place the balloon in a container with water heated to the desired temperature.

Then the can is shaken well, gloves are put on and you can start foaming the cracks. It is very convenient to do this with a special gun, but a regular balloon is also convenient to use.

Excess foam is removed mechanically, but only after complete hardening of the mounting foam. If foam gets on surfaces that can be damaged, it is better to remove it immediately. special fluid or acetone.

But don't expect this process to be easy: removing foam is no easy task. The layer of mounting foam should not exceed 3 cm. If you want to seal a large gap only with it, then you need to foam in several layers, allowing each layer to dry well.

In addition to all these nuances, you need to take into account the temperature of the room. Only at temperatures above +5 degrees can you start foaming the cracks.

1. Reasons for the appearance
2. Description of the work process
3. The use of wooden lath
4. Puttying

Wood - natural material with good thermal insulation properties. Over time, cracks may appear in it.

As a result, the strength of the flooring will decrease, drafts will occur, debris and dirt will begin to accumulate in the holes formed, and bad smell dampness, rot. But you can close the gaps, and on your own.

It is necessary to close the gaps in time wooden floor: defects reduce strength, it becomes dangerous to move along the flooring.

Reasons for the appearance

• Seasonal changes in humidity. Usually associated with the inclusion of heating. The wood starts to dry out low humidity: The indoor air becomes drier. When the heating is turned off, the humidity returns to normal, but the structures and floors do not restore their former shape. To protect the tree from drying out, you need to constantly maintain the microclimate in the room with air humidifiers.
• Violation of floor laying technologies. The cement-sand base may be underdried. The tree will warp over time. Similar defects are also observed when the vapor barrier film is incorrectly laid between wood and cement.
• Incorrectly selected material. High-quality floors are obtained from boards of coniferous, oak, tropical trees. Linden, maple and some other species are not suitable.
• Use of poorly dried boards. When buying a material, its moisture content should be checked. Optimal value- about 6–10%. It is not recommended to purchase material from an open warehouse.
• Old rooms can be inhabited by rodents that spoil the floors. In this case, you need to close up the hole, fill all the moves with concrete mixed with glass or aluminum chips. It is not recommended to pour rat poison into holes: rodents can carry it around the rooms. The poison emits an unpleasant odor, which is then difficult to weather.

What is required to fix the holes?

Required:

• wedges made of wood, rail, cord (nylon or nylon);
• paste, sawdust, epoxy resin, tow;
• special silicone, putty, PVA glue;
• hammer, brushes with hard bristles, trowels, woodworking tools, mastic.

Description of the work process

Furniture is removed from the damaged area. Floors are washed indoors. If the area is small, it is marked with chalk. With a stiff brush or a sharp spatula, adhering dirt is removed. Can be removed paintwork if it interferes with or contributes to the expansion of the holes.

Repair technology depends on the location and nature of the damage.

The use of wooden lath

This is the most effective method but takes a long time. It is more often used if the gap is quite wide and deep.

They begin work with milling holes and slots with a saw: they need to be expanded. Then dowels are driven in. Clean the ends of the boards with sandpaper. If there is a gap between the board and the wall, then the walls are also cleaned. Reiki are made from boards of the same breed as the main floor, 0.5 cm smaller than the size of the holes. Reiki is cleaned.

Boards are treated with glue, glued. Make a mixture of glue and sawdust. Fill cracks and other minor imperfections. Damage between the wall and the floor in some cases is filled with sealant.

After filling the cracks, the surface is treated with varnish and paint under the main shade.

Puttying

If a hole or gap small size, it can be puttied. Several options are used:

• Mix the paste (or PVA) with sawdust. Before this, sawdust is poured with boiling water, left for 2-3 hours to swell. Then glue is added to the mixture, mixed thoroughly. The finished solution should stretch.
• To cover the gap between the boards, you can mix sawdust and gypsum dust in a 1: 1 ratio. The mixture is poured with boiling water. Consistency ready solution should be thick and sticky. Can add citric acid(100 g per 1 liter).
• Less reliable is a mixture of paper (cardboard) and paste. Pre-shredded pieces of cardboard and paper are poured with water so that they swell. Mixed with paste.

The mixture is applied to the damaged area with a spatula. After drying, varnish and paint to match the color of the floor.

The need to fill the joints between the dies is faced by the owners of both freshly laid and already fairly used parquet floors. The smooth surface without gaps and cracks prevents the accumulation of dust and the penetration of moisture into the wood, significantly increasing the service life and maintaining its attractiveness. floor covering. The answer to the question of how to close the cracks in the parquet depends on the age and condition of the flooring.

Slots not only reduce the durability of the floor, but also affect appearance and tactile sensations

For cracks and chips of any width

The simplest method of grouting used when laying fresh parquet is to fill the gaps with varnish during its initial application. gaps between parquet boards in well-laid flooring, they are so small that thick, for example, polyurethane varnishes, fill them without difficulty. The first layer is applied in bulk, spreading the varnish over the floor surface with a spatula. When applying subsequent layers, use a roller or brush.

Sealing is not such a difficult process, the main thing is not to miss a single gap

This method is simple and versatile, but leads to increased consumption of varnish and is unsuitable for gaps with a width of more than 0.2-0.5 mm. In such cases, various putties come to the rescue, the range of which is quite wide. By purpose, they are divided into 3 large groups:

• Starting compositions are designed to fill voids of large volumes, they are not very susceptible to deformation and cracking during the drying process. The rough surface structure does not allow them to be sanded under varnish coatings. Great for filling cracks in dry parquet.
• Finishing putties are more plastic, when applied they immediately give a smooth surface and are perfectly polished. In places where the layer thickness is more than acceptable, they can sag and become covered with a network of cracks. Suitable for new parquet floors.
• Universal mixtures combine the positive properties of starting and finishing putties - they smooth out well and dry out a little. When purchasing, pay attention to the permissible layer thickness, since universal putties can not always replace the starting ones.

The next selection criterion is the solvent used in the manufacture of putty. Lineups on water based practically odorless and most suitable for residential use. Their disadvantage - a long drying time and an excess of moisture transferred to the wood - is not significant when filling thin cracks. The use of putties based on chemical solvents requires good ventilation of the room. Them forte- minimal impact on parquet and suitability for all types of wood.

It is important to choose correct color putties so that the composition does not stand out against the background of the board

It also depends a lot on the filler used for the preparation of the paste, because it is its properties that determine the operational characteristics of the composition. Depending on the working substance and solvent, putties are divided into the following types:

• Gypsum putty is one of the most common and inexpensive compositions for filling cracks in coatings. It dries out a little and practically does not warp. Over time, it loses its plasticity and may crumble from “playing” seams. For floor coverings, mixtures with a high content of plasticizers are used.
• Oil and oil-adhesive putties are less often used to seal cracks in the floor. Most of the compositions are made on the basis of drying oil from chalk and become brittle when dry.
• Alkyd putties are very popular due to high speed hardening and good adhesion to any surfaces. The fragility of alkyd resins used in their manufacture is reduced by the addition of elasticizers - linen and others. vegetable oils. Easily sandable and sandable.
• Latex putties are classified as finishing - the maximum layer thickness should not exceed 2 mm. The composition prepared on a latex basis fills the slightest cracks, forming a durable, moisture-resistant surface. In terms of ease of processing, they are similar to alkyd mixtures, but are somewhat more plastic and more expensive than them.
• Acrylic putty - universal remedy, which can be used to cover cracks on any surface. Water-soluble compositions based on acrylates easily imitate wood, and latex additives significantly increase the strength of the putty after hardening.

Advice! It is better to choose putty and varnish from the same manufacturer - this will save you from possible unpleasant surprises, for example, changes in the color of the putty when interacting with varnish.

Each putty has its own advantages and disadvantages, you need to spend some time to figure it out and choose the right composition.

Grouting gaps between parquet rivets

Having prepared the putty, you can proceed to the solution of the next question: how to close the cracks with your own hands. To work, you need a minimum of tools - several spatulas of different widths, sandpaper and cycle. The last components can be replaced by a grinder. Before puttying, the parquet should be leveled by sanding or sanding. It is advisable to vacuum the cracks - the presence of dust will adversely affect the adhesion of the putty to the tree. Wipe the floor surface with a damp cloth.

Only gaps with a width of more than 2-5 mm are subject to separate putty - thick layer putties will sag and crack when dried. Having previously filled and dried such cracks, the resulting defects are eliminated during subsequent grouting. As an option, in problem areas the parquet is caulked with strips of the appropriate thickness, lubricated with glue and sunk 1-1.5 mm deeper than the level of the parquet.

Large gap between boards

General grouting is done with putty in the consistency of liquid sour cream, pouring it onto the surface of the parquet and evenly rubbing it with a spatula. To best seal gaps in parquet floor, the operation on each section is repeated several times, moving the tool in different directions. As the consumption progresses, the putty is added, preventing a significant decrease in the volume of the composition dispersed with a spatula.

Drying of parquet treated with solvent-based putties takes only a few hours. It is better to give water-soluble compositions a day to set, and only then proceed to the final grinding of the floor surface. All Additional information about the peculiarities of working with specific type putties can be obtained by carefully reading the manufacturer's recommendations, and the answers to the remaining questions can be easily found in thematic videos.

Floor grinding tool, small and handy

When buying a home, new settlers, as a rule, immediately begin repairs - even if a new building is purchased. And even more so if the apartment was bought on the secondary housing market or inherited from parents. Do-it-yourself apartment renovation or with the involvement of specialists is an almost inevitable reality for any newcomer in our country. Modern look housing is given by the installation drywall partitions, spotlights, multi-level ceilings.

Possible problems

Floors in such apartments are a separate issue. In old panel houses their device does not differ in variety. This is usually linoleum or boards on top of the simplest concrete screed. Repair of the floor in Khrushchev is required most often immediately after settlement.

If you got such a floor, you should try to level the surface and get rid of eternal dust. Nowadays, usually the old screed is cleaned to the ground and a new one is arranged, especially since there is no shortage of materials for this. Minor defects can be repaired - putty irregularities with tile adhesive.

What if you have wooden floors? Over time, the coating of the boards tends to dry out, due to friction against each other, the floorboards make a creak. Usually the owners try to eliminate it by screwing the boards with self-tapping screws or pouring it into drilled holes glue. Such measures are not always effective. When planning in Khrushchev, get ready for certain difficulties.

Sometimes the need to restore wooden floors arises because of a flood that happened through one's own fault or because of neighbors from above. If the floors are seriously damaged, it becomes clear that overhaul can't be avoided.

You can see in the photo the wooden floors of the "Khrushchev" before the repair.

Let's start repairing

So, let's do some repairs. When planning it, you should decide what you need - to bring the wooden floor to a divine state or use the coating as the basis for the finishing layer. It depends on whether you will repair the existing floor or completely replace it. It may be enough just to eliminate the cracks in the wooden floor.

Work begins with inspection and, if necessary, dismantling. The floorboards should be carefully examined, the condition assessed. Intact boards will come in handy when installing a new coating.

Then you need to clear a place to work and buy the material in the right amount. A list of everything that will go to repair the floor, price and quantity is specified in advance. You will need bars measuring 50 by 50 cm, and polyethylene film as a vapor barrier. When repairing the floor, it is possible to insulate it, which is important for apartments on the lower floors, especially in cold areas. They are used as a heater. They must be dense, keep their shape. On packages like this mineral wool the size is always indicated, so it is easy to calculate the required quantity.

Sequencing

At the beginning of the repair, a plastic film is spread on the floor, the panels of which should overlap each other by about 20 cm. This is done to prevent moisture from entering the lower rooms.

Mineral wool is cut into strips about 3-4 centimeters thick, which are attached around the perimeter of each room. Why install the bars at a distance slightly less than the width of the insulation boards. The evenness of the installation is controlled by the level. Insulation plates are laid between them, which should fit tightly into the rectangles between the bars.

How exactly to deal with the boards depends on whether it will be a draft layer or the final one. If you need to level an old wood floor with new flooring on top, the boards can be laid out at small intervals. Then the next step is laying on top of the boards fiberboard sheets or plywood as bases decorative coating. In the photo above in the article - wooden floors after repair.

If the floorboards creak

In order not to face the problem of creaking floorboards for as long as possible, fasten them to self-tapping screws. If you do not plan to cover the floorboards with anything from above, you should pay Special attention their quality. You need to strengthen them as tightly as possible with alignment in height. Materials must be dry.

After laying, the boards are sanded, sometimes repeatedly, achieving a perfect evenness of the surface. Before the grinding process, it is required to putty the last remaining cracks. Such sanded and varnished wooden floors look very prestigious and modern.

If the reason was the usual drying, the boards should be tested for strength - there should be no deflection and creaking. You may need to pull the floorboards and additionally secure them with self-tapping screws. The next step is to putty cracks and small cracks. Inexpensive and reliable option - acrylic Of the tools you only need a spatula. After complete drying, clean all places where putty is applied.

You can prepare an old plank floor for flooring different ways. For example, prepare a mixture for leveling from sawdust and or buy ready-made putty. You can use a standard screed of sand and cement. The so-called ones are applied to a clean prepared surface and leveled with the help of guide beacons. But this method has a drawback - long time drying of most formulations.

Often the defects associated with the drying of the boards are due to the low importance of air. Another reason is an incorrectly laid coating, deformation of the lags. Having found the cause of the defect, you can decide how to close the cracks in the wooden floor.

When the lags are to blame

If you suspect that the cause of the squeak is a defect in the lags, this can only be verified by dismantling the entire coating. Removed bars are checked for strength, unusable ones are to be replaced. Then the boards are laid again and firmly attached to the bars. In this case, significant differences in height (up to ten millimeters) may appear. You can level the boards with a planer.

A mixture for sealing wide gaps is prepared by mixing sawdust with PVA glue. The pre-prepared composition is applied to the required places, after drying, the grinding stage begins. Cracks can also be filled with mounting foam, the foamed remains of which, after drying, are cut off with an ordinary clerical knife. After that, the entire surface is treated with acrylic putty.

Thus, we see that there are enough options for filling cracks in a wooden floor. For example, the elimination of large cracks can be done using a tourniquet, which will require an adhesive composition. In the case of small cracks, it is worth buying a floor sealant, as well as a concrete contact. First, each slot is treated with soil, then with concrete contact (the surface becomes rough in this case), then a tourniquet or tow impregnated with sealant is clogged. After drying, the floor is cycled.

Another way to repair

How about patching cracks in wood flooring? If you do not want to re-lay the floors, you can choose a simpler method. Try to shuffle the boards together. Classic way will require a drill, a long drill, a hammer, a tape measure and dowels - thin long wooden sticks round section.

Using a drill, holes are drilled in two adjacent floorboards at an angle of 45 degrees. Each of them should start on one board and end on another. A dowel is hammered into it, previously smeared with glue. Its protruding part is sawn off and cleaned flush. The adjacent hole is drilled indented about a quarter of a meter from the side of the other board so that the dowels are perpendicular to each other, and so on until fully strengthened.

More modern way assumes the presence of self-tapping screws, as well as a special drill, with which holes are drilled to seal their heads. At the last stage, all irregularities are eliminated.

What else can be done

Sealing cracks in a wooden floor can be done by the so-called soft and hard methods. For soft, twine is used (natural is best), as well as polymer glue, a wooden wedge and a hammer. The twine is pre-soaked in glue, then inserted between the boards with a hammer and a wedge. After polymerization of the glue (about a day later), the remaining irregularities are sealed with putty.

The advantage of this adhesive is its elasticity. Even when drying occurs, the cracks no longer widen. After about a day, you need to clean the surface, and you can start painting.

The most reliable way

The rigid termination method requires tools such as a planer, hammer and hand saw. Sawed from thin wooden planks right amount wedges, the width of which is adjusted to the dimensions of the gap, then the wedges are carefully hammered into the gap with a hammer with the long side. The width of the gap is different everywhere, and a planer will need to be adjusted. The hard method requires a lot of strength and patience, but it is the most reliable.

Before the prepared bar is inserted into the slot, glue is poured there. Withstand a day, the cracks are cleaned, and you can start painting.

Do-it-yourself apartment renovation planners should be aware that there are more exotic ways, for example, filling cracks with hot bitumen. But it is quite expensive, dirty and laborious. It is known that cardinal way mask all the cracks and unevenness of the floor - cover it with plywood. Effect this method will be the longest.

A wooden floor is beautiful, warm and environmentally friendly, but during operation it can bring a lot of trouble. One of these problems can be gaps. To solve this issue, you need to figure out how it is possible to close the cracks in the wooden floor.

When needed

Sealing cracks in a wooden floor may be needed in various situations, the reason for which is the same - drying out of the boards:

• if the floor creaks;
• when repairing and replacing flooring;
• if the apartment was flooded;
• violation of the technology of laying boards.

Drying of boards is one of the most common causes crack formation

These are not all options, but the most common. In any case, if a major repair is being carried out for any reason, you will need to fix the gaps in the floor with your own hands.

Ways to eliminate cracks

There are many options to help deal with the problem. The choice depends on design features sex, available materials and type of flooring:

• the use of building foam with foam (suitable for eliminating gaps between the wall and the flooring);
• the use of sawdust mixed with an adhesive composition;
• wood putty;
• composition consisting of paste and pieces of paper;
• cord closure;
• driving rails and wedges;
• tow;
• a mixture of epoxy glue with cement;
• thick Oil paint with sawdust;
• plywood sheets (for difficult cases when there are a lot of cracks in the floor);
• sealing with sealant.

Depending on the complexity of the situation, you can use any of these options. Further details about the technology of the most common methods.

Before starting work with your own hands, you need to clean the surface of the boards from dirt, dust and debris.

You can treat the wood with an antiseptic. This will extend the service life and protect against damage by various microorganisms. After that, you can fill or putty cracks.

Construction foam

Used for the perimeter of the room. Work is carried out in the following order:

• remove skirting boards, clean the surface from dirt and dust;
• if necessary, pieces of foam are placed in the slot;
• fill the gap space with foam;
• wait for the drying time and cut off the excess;
• next you need to putty the surface;
• after the putty dries, install the plinth.

The universal solution for the repair of wooden floors is construction foam- it does not retract, does not shrink

sawdust with glue

Suitable for embedding anywhere. Executed in the following order:

A mixture of sawdust with glue should have a consistency similar to thick sour cream

• small sawdust in a convenient container is poured with boiling water and mixed until a homogeneous mass;
• wait for swelling and cooling time, mix;
• add an adhesive composition (PVA or carpentry) to the mixture and mix thoroughly;
• apply the composition to the coating with a spatula and tamp it inward without effort;
• the composition is leveled and excess is removed;
• drying time - 2-3 days;
• after drying, polishing or scraping of the coating is performed.

There is a second option for preparing the composition - with the addition of cement. It is prepared as follows:

• 2 parts of glue are mixed with 15 parts of warm water;
• 5 parts of cement and 5 parts of sawdust are added to the solution;
• the mass is mixed and infused for 5-7 minutes.

Use this composition must be warmed up. The disadvantage is a long time for complete drying due to the presence of cement (about 2 weeks).

Putty

Suitable for small gaps. Best used as preparatory phase in front of plywood flooring. Disadvantages - fragility, cracking and scattering. Allows you to easily prepare the mixture without complicated operations. The work is carried out in this order:

• prepare a solution and a tool - a narrow rubber spatula;
• putty is applied to the surface of the joints, while it must be pressed into the cracks;
• drying of the composition;
• leveling with the use of means of abrasive processing.

Putty quickly eliminates cracks, but over time again requires repair of the floor

Do-it-yourself putty allows you to quickly get rid of cracks, but soon the repair may again.

Driving rails and wedges

Stages of work:

• preparation of rails narrowed at the bottom and matching the size of the slot;
• processing rails and slots with PVA glue;
• gluing the rail into the slot, hammering with a rubber mallet or a regular one, but through a wooden board;
• if necessary, after the glue has dried with a planer, the protruding part of the wedges and rails is removed;
• leveling the color of the floor with stain or staining.

Floor repair with battens and wedges

Tow patch

The material is treated with an adhesive composition. After that, the tow is tamped into the cracks. After the glue dries, you can paint the floor in one color. The material is made from linen, so it has a high degree of environmental friendliness and safety.

Suitable for wide gaps if the floor is badly damaged and needs to be reinforced. In this case, it is not effective to apply sealing of individual slots. Plywood allows you to carry out work with minimal labor costs.

plywood laying process

Order of execution:

1. If necessary, putty is used as a preparatory stage. You can cover up only individual flaws. Putty will increase the reliability of the repair.
2. Carry out the layout of plywood sheets on the floor, adjust the sheets to the required dimensions.
3. Fastening is carried out on self-tapping screws. In this way, you can quickly close all the existing floor imperfections at once.

sealant

For work, choose compositions based on acrylic or silicone, designed to work with wood. Advantage - no need to prepare complex compositions and ease of application. Sealant packaging usually has a convenient shape and a syringe nozzle, which is easy to fill all the cracks.

The sealant has a convenient shape and a syringe nozzle, which can easily fill all the cracks

It doesn’t matter which method is used to fix the problem, putty, other compounds or materials, you need to follow the technology and carefully prepare the floor surface. This will delay the next overhaul of the floor.