Reliable fastening of the legs of the kitchen table. Typical do-it-yourself table legs

It is simply impossible to imagine a kitchen without a table that performs two functions at once, one of them is eating, the second is cooking. You can buy this piece of furniture at any store of relevant goods, but it is not always possible to choose the model that will be suitable for the dimensions and design of a particular room, so it is better to make a table with your own hands.

Figure 1. A wooden dining table can be made by hand, so you can make it the size and shape you need.

On fig. 1 you can see the design of the table, which will be discussed in the example. For the process of work, you can rent everything necessary equipment for wood processing, avoiding its acquisition. As a result, you can get not only original, but also sturdy table, which will fit into the interior, decorated in any style.

Tools and materials:

• acrylic composition;
• putty;
• timber;
• furniture plate;
• fastening accessories;
• jigsaw;
• wood glue;
• clamp;
• Sander.

Preparation before starting work

Tools for making a table: jigsaw, drill, self-tapping screws, tape measure, ruler, pencil.

In order to make a table with your own hands, you need to prepare a furniture plate, the thickness of which can be equal to the limit of 40-45 mm, while its width can vary from 600 to 800 mm, the length of the plate can be any, but traditionally it is 1200-1400 mm . As a countertop, it is permissible to use the corresponding element for the kitchen set, adjusting it to the desired dimensions. If it is not possible to purchase a solid countertop, then it is permissible to replace it with a set of boards that are to be glued.

The legs can be made using a bar that has square section, equal to 60x60 mm or 70x70 mm. The legs can be figured wooden or steel products. The structure will become rigid thanks to the beam, the cross section of which is 40x40 mm, and the length should be such that it is possible to circle the countertop around the perimeter. We make a table using mounting hardware, it can be represented different models, you will also need fasteners, namely bolts, screws and nuts.

Table manufacturing technology

Boards and timber must be marked desired length and cut into blanks.

Before you make a table, you have to think about what design it will have, what technical solutions will be used in the process of its manufacture, how it can then be decorated, these components will allow you to get a full-fledged aesthetic piece of furniture. This stage involves drawing up a sketch according to certain dimensions of the structure.

For the table, you need to choose the type of countertop, which will be the easiest to make for the master, and the one that will look most harmonious in the interior of the room. There are two types of worktops, one of which is simple, the second - a high degree of aesthetics and originality.

If you prefer a tabletop made on the basis of glued laminated timber for a table, then it will act as the most simple option structures, excluding the tabletop based on the finished furniture board.

In order to make a countertop from a bar, you have to use a saw, which can be replaced electrical equipment: jigsaw, sawmill, etc.

Corners are used to fasten the legs.

The beam must be cut into blanks, giving it the required length. And then you can make a thorough processing of the mating surfaces. This procedure may involve grinding.

The ends of the blanks must be covered with glue for working on wood, strengthened with clamps on a flat base until completely dry. Once the countertop is ready, its surface must be carefully sanded. manual method or using grinder, then you have to chamfer the perimeter and round the corners.

The second type of countertop can be decorated with tiles, which can give the product high aesthetic and consumer qualities. In the manufacturing process, it is permissible to use a solid array of wood, which can be replaced with a solid furniture board. The inner part of the countertop must be removed to a depth that is equivalent to the thickness of the tile, while it should be taken into account that the adhesive layer also has its own thickness, which will appear when laying the products. In order to achieve even greater aesthetics, it is permissible to form a border located along the perimeter of the table top, equal to 70 mm. You can more accurately calculate the size of the border, taking into account the dimensions tiles. It is possible to carry out work to remove a layer of wood, for example, with a chisel or by means of a manual milling method.

Using the traditional Bustilat glue, tiles can be laid on the formed base, while its height should coincide with the height of the curb. As soon as the glue dries, you can continue the manufacturing process of the structure.

To connect the legs of the table and the table top, use self-tapping screws or special fittings.

At the stage of fixing the table legs, you will have to use mounting hardware. In advance, it is necessary to drill holes on the legs, the diameter of which should be 1 mm smaller than the corresponding size of the screws. Now you can fix the fittings on the legs.

The next step will be to increase the rigidity characteristics of the future structure, for this, from the inside of the tabletop around the perimeter, by means of self-tapping screws, you should fix the prepared bar, which will act as the table side. The installation of the beam must be carried out after marking, providing sufficient space for the legs. Then you can match the legs and mounting hardware to the tabletop and drawer side.

Table surface decoration

Applying tile to countertops.

Making a table with your own hands, at the last stage you have to finally decorate the structure. Before this process, all elements must be carefully sanded to get rid of the most minor roughness. The final finish also allows you to show the unique natural structure of wood.

Before you make a table with your own hands, you need to choose the right wood, which should have high quality, be well dried right technology. Otherwise, the design will change its linear dimensions over time. This can happen when wood with a high moisture content has been used. Over time, it will begin to evaporate and deform the table. But even well-dried wood must be protected from external negative factors, because the kitchen is characterized by conditions with high humidity. In addition, the table is often used for cooking, which may be accompanied by exposure of the countertop to substances harmful to wood.

After the completion of the manufacturing process, the table with your own hands must be varnished, which can be replaced with wax. Wood is not always devoid of flaws or knots, which must be treated with putty, and then sanded and decorated with an acrylic composition.

The surface of all elements of the table itself will have to be varnished in several layers. The more there are, the more attractive it will be. appearance finished product.

After all work on sawing wood is completed, you should carefully remove working room, especially for the stage of painting or varnishing. Because dustiness can cause Bad quality staining. The next step will be drying, which should be carried out in a warm room. You can choose a varnish that will be able to give the wood the desired shade and look. valuable breeds. In addition, it will provide good protection elements from damage and wear.

Making a children's table

Before you make a table with your own hands for a nursery, you should prepare a solid array that will form the basis of the tabletop. You will need blanks for legs from a bar with a section of 40x40 mm. At the heart of the power frame will be 4 bars. Model children's table may be equal to 500 mm or higher.

The connection of structural elements should be carried out according to the “groove-thorn” principle, for this reason, grooves must be formed by means of end mills in the places where the legs are attached. Why is it necessary to mark the places for the grooves, combining the paired elements, and then in right place should be arranged blind hole. Its diameter should be equivalent to the thickness of the groove, while its depth is usually equal to 1/3 of the body of the workpiece. Now you can fix the leg blank in the clamp, and then, using the end mill installed at low speeds of the electric drill, proceed to the selection of wood until a groove of the required size is formed.

The ruler will allow you to measure the resulting grooves and mark the spikes on the bars for the power frame, which can then be formed. Now you can make a control assembly. Measuring tools will allow you to check the angles between the elements. Then you need to mark the blanks and disassemble the table. Joiner's glue will help fix the mating elements. After waiting for the frame to dry, it is necessary to strengthen the countertop to it. Why in the center of the legs you need to drill a blind hole for the furniture pin. Next, you need to mark the positions of the spikes on the reverse side of the countertop by drilling counter holes.

In this case, it is also necessary to make a preliminary fitting, only then the parts can be processed with glue and attached.

Any of these tables can be adjusted to the size of a nursery or dining room, the main thing is to make accurate measurements and make a strong pairing, then the design will serve its owners for a long time.

Even at the design stage of the kitchen set, you have to decide how to finish the bottom of the kitchen, called the plinth. There are two options, either use decorative legs, or install a plinth. Most often, the latter option is chosen. With this option, you can easily decorative trim plinth, additionally decorate the kitchen with lighting or arrange places for storing food or kitchen utensils. About how and from what you can make a basement for the kitchen will be discussed in this article.

How to choose a plinth for the kitchen

By and large, the choice is small, the most popular two options for materials for kitchen plinths are chipboard and plastic. Both types will perfectly cope with their task, however, they differ fundamentally in options use. Therefore, the choice of base material should be based on the tasks that are assigned to it.

Fig.1.

Fig.2.

Fig.3.

Chipboard kitchen plinth - will be made of the same material as itself kitchen set. The advantage of chipboard is that such a base can be made of any size, which is important for custom cuisine. Another advantage is that color solutions at use of chipboard huge, which will allow you to make the plinth and kitchen set in the same color or choose a contrasting color at your discretion. When choosing a plinth for a chipboard kitchen, it is imperative to provide an edge on the chipboard panel, this will protect it from moisture, which is always in abundance in the kitchen.

Fig.4.

Fig.5.

Fig.6.

PVC plinth for the kitchen is no less popular. The main advantage of the PVC plinth is resistance to mechanical stress and moisture, which is very important for the kitchen. The PVC plinth is completed with various connecting elements, which, when installed in the kitchen, allows you to hide the panel joints. If you are the owner of a kitchen with smooth curves, then plastic is almost the only option to make a base with a bend.

Fig.7.

Fig.8.

Fig.9.

The plastic base for the kitchen cannot be made to order, its dimensions are standardized, as are the colors. This circumstance is certainly a disadvantage of the plastic base, but it must be taken into account even at the design stage of the kitchen. The main characteristic of a plastic base is its width. It can be 100, 120, 150 mm. The width of the plastic base must be less than or equal to the length of the legs of the kitchen unit.

Fig.10.

Fig.11.

Fig.12.

Legs for kitchen set

If a plinth is planned for a kitchen set, then regardless of whether it is decorative or functional, it is necessary to use special height-adjustable furniture legs for the kitchen. Legs for the kitchen come in three sizes 100, 120, 150 mm. Height adjustment is provided by the leg design and is a screw mechanism. By rotating the leg support, the height of the furniture is adjusted.

Fig.13.

If a we are talking about the plastic plinth, it is important to focus on how to choose the right legs and plinth. The legs can be adjusted within a fairly wide range, both in the direction of decreasing the height, and in the direction of increasing. In addition, the floors in the kitchen may have slight irregularities, and this must also be taken into account. Therefore, the legs and plinth must be the same size or the legs must be larger. Usually the legs are adjusted so that there is a small gap between the plinth and the kitchen set, which will ensure ventilation of the kitchen plinth.

Fig.15.

Fixing the plinth to the legs of the kitchen

When designing a headset, an important circumstance is the height of the kitchen basement. Due to the height of the plinth, the position of the countertop relative to the floor is adjusted, which allows you to adjust the kitchen to your height. On the other hand, if the kitchen plinth will be used to store utensils, then it should be made at least 120 mm high; standard sliding storage systems cannot be installed in a plinth of a lower height. Therefore, kitchen plinths with a height of 120 and 150 mm are most widely used.

Fig.16.

Fig.17.

When assembling the kitchen set, special adjustable furniture legs are used, the design of which includes a clip for the kitchen basement. The plinth plank is attached to the legs of the kitchen using this clip. Clips are attached first to the plinth, and with the help of a special clip to the leg of the kitchen. For a plinth made of chipboard, the clip is attached using self-tapping screws; for a plastic plinth, a special groove is provided where the clip is inserted.

Fig.18.

Fig.19.

A kitchen plinth mount is included with each leg, but this does not mean that you need to use all the hardware. Fixings for the plinth should be placed at a distance of 1 m from each other and at the edges of the plank. So the plinth will stand evenly and the possible mutual displacement of the legs will not affect the appearance of the plinth, at the same time it will be securely fixed.

Fig.20.

Installing a plinth in the kitchen is associated with another important issue - the depth of the plinth. The plinth should be recessed by 7-10 cm relative to the kitchen facade. This is necessary so that when you stand close to the countertop, your legs do not rest against the plinth bar. The required displacement of the plinth can be ensured by the correct installation of the legs. When assembling the kitchen, the legs of the front row should be shifted by 7-10 cm relative to the facade. This is enough to provide correct installation plinth in the future.

Fig.21.

Fig.22.

Fig.23.

Additional plinth elements

By installing a plinth, you greatly restrict the ventilation under kitchen cabinets and if you have a built-in oven, then this may violate safety requirements. The ventilation grill in the basement of the kitchen will completely solve this problem. There is a special ventilation grill for the kitchen basement. The advantage of which is that it is produced in the color of the basement strips and has a size specified by the manufacturers of built-in appliances. This makes it possible to provide optimal mode ventilation. In addition, the design of these gratings allows them to be installed in the plinth without any problems, you just need to cut a groove of the desired size.

Fig.24.

Fig.25.

Despite the apparent versatility of the chipboard base, it is very vulnerable to moisture. Therefore, it is necessary to purchase a basement seal for the kitchen. Silicone sealant for the kitchen plinth will protect the chipboard and hide the uneven fit of the plinth to the floor. Thus, dirt will not fall under the kitchen set.

If the table sways, then the strapping has come loose.

Table: material, manufacturing technology, schemes, designs - simple and complex

If nothing is damaged, it can be glued again. But if you want to be sure, strengthen the harness.

Gaps between the legs of the table and the frame of the harness, creaking, rocking of the table, etc. are sure signs that something is wrong with the design of the harness. Where the connections have loosened because the glue no longer holds, the table loses its stability and requires immediate repair.

If the strapping has come loose, dismantling the whole structure is indispensable, because if you just add glue to the gaping cracks and reattach the frame, it will not last long. Glue must be added where there are contact planes, i.e. in the grooves and on side surfaces spikes.

And although the connection has already weakened in the castle structure, sometimes it is not so easy to separate the parts from each other. In order not to break off or damage anything, you need to pick up a hammer and knock out the spikes from the grooves with short but strong blows. In order for the glued places to hold again, you should scrape off the old layer of glue and remove the remnants of mastic or varnish, if any. When applying a new layer of adhesive, make sure that the legs are vertical and parallel and that the harness frame does not warp. To do this, place the table with the legs up on a flat surface and tighten the clamp evenly and alternately from both sides. The glue must dry before we begin to strengthen the strapping. Now we will work with wood (screwed metal corners do not provide strength and durability). From a single piece of pine or other hard rock, we will make stiffening corners with a thickness of at least half the height of the strapping. The corners are in the form of isosceles triangles, the vertices of which are cut into the upper end of the table leg so that contact planes are formed as closely as possible to each other. As a rule, the tops are cut at right angles. When all four corners are in place, the sides are smeared with glue and connected to the harness. Additionally, you can fix the structure with obliquely set screws.

1. The old elegant table, weakened by “age”, completely crumbled. But someone who knows how to restore furniture can work wonders.

2. Fasten the strapping, and set the legs, if possible, at a right angle.

3. When the areas to be glued are cleaned, the strapping is glued together by tightening it with a clamp.

5. Glue the fasteners at the corners of the strapping. Can also be fixed with screws.

b. Now the strapping is absolutely strong, you can mount the countertop on it.

4. Cut out triangles from a single piece of wood and cut the top into the edges of the table legs.

7. When the table is standing, the additional reinforcing corners are not visible.

Instruments:

Hammer, clamp, chisel, narrow hacksaw, screwdriver

In most modern kitchen sets, the lower modules are installed on adjustable legs - supports and are covered with a single tabletop. With the help of adjustable legs, you can compensate for unevenness and slope of the floor, thereby leveling the overall tabletop covering the lower cabinets. Adjustable supports for kitchen sets are able to withstand significant loads and can be plastic and metal, which also perform a decorative function.

Plastic kitchen supports do not have a very attractive appearance, but a special clip is included with the leg, with which a kitchen plinth is attached to the support. The kitchen set, installed completely on plastic legs, closes at the bottom with a decorative plinth, which can be removed if necessary. If you want to leave the legs open, then you should install decorative metal legs - supports in visible areas.

Four kitchen supports are enough for one bottom module up to 800 mm wide. Wider and angular cabinets need more furniture legs. Also, if a vertical partition passes in the lower module, it is also desirable to install supports under it.

Regardless of the material installation of adjustable supports similar to each other. The kitchen leg is attached to the chipboard with four 16 mm self-tapping screws and one central bolt. Before installing the kitchen legs, set all the supports to the lowest position, that is, fully screw them.

kitchen with plinth and legs

Flip the bottom module over and start marking. Please note that if you plan to close the bottom of the kitchen set with a plinth, then step back 80 - 100 mm along the front edge to fix the legs. This is done with the aim that when you stand at the desktop, your legs will not rest on the plinth. Where the legs cannot be closed with a plinth, it will not be enough to move away from the edge by 50 mm.

To fix, mount one kitchen leg, step back 50 mm from both sides, draw a cross and put a dot at the intersection. Attach the kitchen leg to the bottom of the module so that the dot is under one of the four holes. The other two holes should be above the lines of the drawn cross. Screw on the markup three screws, then screw the fourth. Do the same with the rest of the legs.

installing kitchen legs

Then, when you install all the legs on the kitchen set, proceed to align the lower cabinets on the countertop using a level and adjustable feet. Cover the lower modules with a tabletop.

We make a beautiful and strong country table with our own hands

Achieve a horizontal position of the countertop by adjusting the outer legs of the kitchen set. Then screw out the remaining supports so that they are firmly on the floor.

Installing the legs on the kitchen set with your own hands is not difficult, this requires care and accuracy.

A folding table on a balcony or loggia is very rational thing. You can read a book behind it. Sit with friends with a bottle of beer. Or have a cup of coffee.

This article is dedicated to folding structures. Such tables are often confused with stationary ones. In the photo on the Internet in the unfolded state, both the first and second are very similar. But if you look closely, the transformer table is more practical. It changes position and practically does not take up space on the balcony or loggia.

There is only one way to fold at the wall tables on the balcony. When folded, they are pressed against the wall of the loggia. But the mechanism that is responsible for fixing the tabletop is a big difference.

Convertible table with leg

As with all subsequent types (with the exception of tables with brackets), in this design the table top hangs on hinges attached to the wall. When you raise it to a horizontal position, you simply substitute the leg as a support from below. And that's it, the tabletop is holding.

The legs are often made separate, not connected with the main part. As a rule, they are joined in a deep hole in the bottom of the countertop. The essence of this design is that the folded table hangs as close as possible to the wall when folded. Its device is very simple and reliable.

So that the support is not lost, the mechanism was improved. It was simply screwed to the bottom of the table. Such a support has, on the one hand, a hinge, and on the other, an emphasis. The supporting part is a notch or a piece of rail screwed to vertical surface self-tapping screws.

These legs can be attached to the wall. And to be fixed in the recess of the countertop. As the saying goes, change does not change the essence.

Table with folding support

Supports are usually stationary.

They have a triangular shape or close to it and work in the same way as the top part- on hinges. You lift the lid and move the support aside. Sometimes it is fixed, for example, by connecting a dowel + recess. Magnets or ball fasteners also serve as latches.

Such tables are reliable and beautiful, but unlike options with a removable leg, they are not as compact. The thicker the tabletop and the leg itself, the further such a table is moved away from the wall. For example, a table with a removable leg extends beyond the wall by 2-3cm, and a table with a flat support by 6-9cm.

This difference often plays against such a transformer.

Table on folding arms

For the past ten years, the industry has begun to produce mechanical brackets for folding tables.

The material for them, as a rule, is iron, ordinary iron, less often stainless steel.

There are usually not so many colors in stores; you can find black, white, chrome-plated mechanisms. But there are a lot of designs.

Works table on brackets without hinges. Rather, there are loops, but they are implemented inside the bracket.

One part of the bracket is attached to the wall, the other to the countertop. When the table top is lifted, the mechanism opens to 90° and locks itself. The moment of fixation is difficult to describe on paper. So let's look at the photo.

To lower the cover you need to pull it up or pull the lever.

DIY wooden kitchen table

At this time, the arm will work to lower and it will be possible to fold the furniture.

The cheapest brackets can stick. At the same time, the lid will recline and not fold. In this case, you have to climb under the table to unlock the mechanism.

Mechanism on gas-filled shock absorbers

Recently appeared new mechanism to create folding tables.

Our craftsmen adapted gas cylinders from the back door of a Niva car as a support for folding tables.

It looks something like this: the tabletop is hanging on hinges near the wall. Under it hides a cylinder filled with gas. This whole structure is held vertically either by a strap or some kind of latch.

To bring furniture into working position you just open the latch. At this point, the gas in the cylinder pushes the piston, and with it the hinged lid, up.

This design is new and has such advantages as: compactness (the cylinder has a diameter of only 18mm), opening speed of only 3 seconds, simplicity of design.

A steel bath is much lighter than a cast iron bath, for this reason it will be much easier to transport and install it. The weight of such equipment is small, therefore it cannot be installed in the center of the bathroom without relying on the walls. First you need to install steel bath on the legs. Reliable and stable legs for a steel bath - those that follow the contour of the bottom of the product itself, in addition, it is desirable that they be self-adhesive.

Some manufacturers include bolted steel bath supports in the installation kit. But this set of fasteners is not harmless for the surface of the products, because it can damage the enamel layer. In case of excessive load, the enamel may crack in the fastening area. In addition, the “regular” legs of bathtubs from some manufacturers, alas, do not differ in quality. Therefore, it is preferable to purchase universal legs for a steel bath on a self-adhesive basis.

Generally speaking, the installation of metal plumbing equipment is practically no different from the installation of cast iron (besides, of course, that they are easier to move). But there are still some differences.

Features of mounting a steel bath

Due to the large weight and massiveness, cast iron bathtubs can be installed in the middle of the bathroom, but the installation of a steel product in the same way is impossible: the bath must necessarily adjoin three walls.

Based on this, you first need to install a bath, and then lay the wall tiles. For the free passage of the bath between the walls, the distance from one wall to another should be equal to linear dimensions products, plus five to six millimeters.

We fasten the legs

How to fix the legs of a steel bath? So, we have already decided on what is best on a self-adhesive basis. Such supports have the shape of the letter "P" with some deflection at the base. They have screws for adjustment with plastic tips. The most reliable set of legs for a steel bath has small feet and longer adjusting bolts.

Since metal products are not very weighty and can tip over under the weight of water or the weight of a person, additional support can be made for them in the form of masonry blocks or bricks. Naturally, this support is installed with outside equipment.

After carrying out all the basic work on installing a plumbing fixture, the brick is tiled, so its original appearance does not play a special role. If you intend to make such a support, be sure to leave space below for free access to the siphon.

To install the legs on steel bath the following operations must be carried out:

Training

It is necessary to prepare a place for the installation of equipment. Immediately it is necessary to organize conclusions for sewer drain and future mixer. The next step is to treat the walls with moisture-proofing agents. If the corners between the walls are not straight, they need to be leveled. After that, you can proceed to the installation of a plumbing fixture.

Leg mounting

• First you need to turn the bath upside down. In order not to scratch the enamel layer, it is better to use cardboard or a layer of foam rubber as a substrate. When buying a product in a cardboard package, you can simply leave it on.
• The legs for a metal bath must first be tried on to the places of future installation. One pair of legs should be installed at a distance of about two centimeters from the outlet towards the center of the product.
• The second pair of legs is placed close to the second edge of the equipment.

Tip: In order for the legs to fit very well to the bottom, you can manually trim the depth of the deflection of the channel. In any case, it is advisable to do such a procedure not under the bath, but somewhere on the sidelines on the substrate.

• At the joints of the product, its surface must be degreased with undiluted alcohol or acetone. After that, you need to remove the protective layer from the lining, put the legs in the right places and press hard to the bottom of the equipment. It is also advisable to degrease the mounting points with alcohol, but in no case use a solvent.

Tip: In order for the protective layer to easily come off the lining, it can be heated with a building or ordinary household hair dryer.

• The threaded studs for adjustment must be carefully and slowly driven all the way into the plastic tips, while making sure that the thread is not damaged. If you do not have a rubber mallet, then it is better to tighten the complete nuts on the studs before driving. After that, the nuts must be screwed up to the tips, and the studs must be screwed into the points assigned to them on the support.
• In order to avoid incidents, you immediately need to evaluate the parameters of the door to the bathroom, because it can be narrow. In this case, it will not be possible to bring equipment with attached legs into the room without damaging the legs. Then it is desirable to attach the legs already in the bathroom itself.

Leveling the bathtub

• After installing the product in the right place, do not forget that the height of the steel bath with legs must be at the same level on all sides. To do this, you can use the level and in case of a height discrepancy on one side of the equipment and the other, simply adjust it using the adjustment screws on the legs themselves.
• Further, in the corners between the sides of the bathtub and the walls, four narrow wooden wedges must be hammered. The gaps between the edge of the steel equipment and the wall should be filled with special mounting foam from a gun. After it has completely solidified, it is necessary to pull out the wooden wedges.
• To ensure that water is not poured under the bath, on top of polyurethane foam, in level with the sides of the product, you can put a layer of silicone.

Conclusion

Upon completion of all stages, place under plumbing equipment you can lay a brick, or just install a decorative sliding screen. After that, the installation of a metal product can be considered completed.

With wooden countertop with minimal financial outlay.

The house has been rebuilt and renovations are in progress. The kitchen was also ready at that time. The question was about the kitchen table. Looked in stores wooden tables. Normal tables with a wooden top (not chipboard) cost from 3,000 rubles. After looking at the whole thing, I decided to make a table with my own hands.

To make the table I bought:

1. type-setting wooden furniture board 60cm wide and 3m long (there was no less),
2. wooden beam 4 x 4 cm,
3. 4 table legs. (they are sold in furniture fittings stores),
4. screw nuts for fastening the legs.

Everything about everything took 1500 rubles.

The dimensions of our future table are 60 cm by 160 cm (half furniture board), based on the size of the kitchen), so the cost of the table was set a little over 1000 rubles.

Having cut the tabletop to the size of the table, I set about sawing the ends of the timber at 45 degrees.

The beam is necessary to stiffen the countertop. We start it around the perimeter of the table from the bottom side. Without a bar, the tabletop will sag.

We apply the blanks of the bars to the countertop and check whether everything fits together without gaps.

We fasten the beam to the countertop with screws.

On the reverse side of the tabletop we mark the places for attaching the legs and holes.

We drill holes in the countertop for the screws. Drill diameter - 10 mm. Screw nut diameter - 12 mm.
To facilitate the screwing of the nut, you can set the stroke with a tap to 12mm. The pitch of the tap is equal to the pitch of the thread on the screw nut.

We do all this with four legs.

The table is ready and stands on legs. Let's start sanding and varnishing it.

cleared the table sandpaper, first 80th, then smaller - 150th. I made the edges of the table and bars a little rounded. Somewhere irregularities moonlighted.

After careful polishing, I proceeded to varnish the table.

We had a matte varnish (we took it earlier to cover the floor). After applying the first layer, let the varnish dry. After drying, the pile rises. Again we pass with fine sandpaper and cover with a second layer of varnish.

If necessary, after the second layer, we also sand it with sandpaper and varnish the table, as I did.

The table is ready!

Instead of metal legs, you can also use a square beam or ready-made balusters, which are sold ready-made.

Probably when I make another table, I will use balusters. They are different sizes. It is desirable to use balusters with a diameter of more than 70 mm. They are also fastened with screws.