How to process saw cut chipboard from water. How to soak chipboard from moisture

Chipboard is one of the most affordable building materials, so many are interested in the question of how to soak this material from moisture? And, if in the summer time the ingress of moisture on the floor has a low probability, then in winter it is formed in any case. In this article, we will give good advice about how and with what to impregnate chipboard from moisture?

Oil varnish or drying oil

AT Soviet times the best way was, and now - special impregnating substances. Naturally, this does not mean that drying oil cannot continue to be used as protective agent from moisture. It is allowed to use it, but to achieve high level protection is almost impossible. Yes and necessary a large number of mixture, while the working procedure will have to be done several times.

Polyurethane Blend

One of the most popular means for chipboard processing a polyurethane mixture is considered, which is similar in composition to a primer. Impregnation based on solvents organic type and polymers, which, when processed, penetrate deep into the pores of the material. At the same time, the strength level building material increases significantly.

Nitrocellulose varnish

There is another way to protect chipboard from moisture - nitrocellulose varnish. Its protective effect is similar to polyurethane varnish: it forms a kind of protective covering on the surface of the product, preventing the penetration of moisture, while the resistance to damage is equivalent to the maximum rate. A significant advantage of nitrocellulose varnish over its predecessor is the application of the substance without pre-training workplace, but for best results, we strongly recommend priming the chipboard.

To significantly protect chipboard products, you need to use combined method protection. It is best if it not only consists of an impregnation step with deep penetration substances, but will also include the application of additional paints and varnishes.

The low cost of chipboard, high performance, versatility of use have made them a very popular material. Most private spheres applications - furniture manufacturing and construction. The main enemy of these plates is water - the chips increase in volume, the plate swells, warps and crumbles.

Even at the very beginning of manufacturing, sawdust and shavings after drying are impregnated with formaldehyde resins. After pressing, the surface of the plates is laminated, sometimes even varnished.

But the surface protection does not save the ends from the penetration of moisture through which it enters. Accumulating inside, water gradually begins to penetrate into the wood fibers, which leads to the destruction of the plate. Therefore, the ends must be saved from liquid penetration during operation. If they are tightly sealed, the service life of the plates will increase significantly.

Why exactly the ends are the launching pad for destruction? Yes, because the production of plates is necessary standard sizes, as well as the preparation of different-sized pieces of material, requires cutting. In this case, the integrity of the wood fibers is violated.

Thus, the protection of chipboard from moisture is carried out in three directions:

impregnation of wood fibers with resins;
special surface treatment;
end sealing.

The first step towards moisture resistance

Already at the beginning chipboard production a process is carried out to protect them from water penetration - the so-called chip gumming. Thanks to this operation, two goals are achieved - the saturation of the fibers with resins and their bonding. For most of the manufactured boards, formaldehyde resins are used, which by definition are already a hydrophobic component of the product.

In cases where even greater moisture resistance is required from the plates, another binder is used, that is, formaldehyde resin is replaced with urea-melamine. It glues the chips together much stronger, thereby being a stronger barrier to moisture. With the additional introduction of molten paraffin or its emulsion into the particle carpet, the moisture resistance of chipboard increases even more.

Plate surface treatment

The front and back surfaces of the plate, as the most large areas contact, without any protection, they can pass through themselves and absorb, respectively, the largest amount of liquid. It will not be superfluous to cover these planes with something moisture-proof. Some of the methods of such coating are possible only in the factory, some - and at home.

One of the main methods of protection is lamination. With it, on a polished chipboard with high pressure and a high temperature, a melamine film is laid. The essence of this process is not in pressing, but in the fact that under these conditions the film polymerizes the surface of the plate, becoming one with it.

There is another method performed in the factory - this is caching. Pressure and heat are also applied here, but more sparingly. The already hardened film is pressed against the adhesive-coated plate. If lamination is a chemical process, then lamination is a mechanical one.

Components of laminated chipboard

At home, unlaminated chipboard is often coated with several layers of paint for protection. Pre-treat the surface before painting:

dust is carefully swept away and erased from the surface;
for the first time, the plate is smeared with hot drying oil;
then this is done with cold drying oil until the outer crust is formed;
the top is painted. With any painting method, it must be remembered that each subsequent layer of paint is applied to the already dried previous one.

There are several other ways to protect against getting wet. For example, a surface that will not be subjected to mechanical stress can be protected as follows: rub with stearin, then heat with a hairdryer. Let cool and repeat this a couple more times. Or: one part of bituminous varnish is mixed with five parts of drying oil. Coverage is carried out twice.

Seam and edge processing

Water is always looking for the lowest place, the depression. And what, if not a recess, are the joints on horizontal planes? There are especially many such joints in cabinet furniture, which is made just from chipboard. Kitchen furniture is in general, as on the front line: there is plenty of water and enough fumes. The sink, drying cabinet, countertop, furniture near and above the stove are most susceptible to moisture.

Faucets all start leaking at some point. So in the sink, the most promising dangerous place is where the mixer crashes into the countertop. This is the point of contact between metal and wood. It is possible not only for the tap to leak, but also for water to condense at the point of contact.

Therefore, this place is cleaned, dried with a hairdryer. Next, a layer of PVA glue is applied, after which it dries - silicone. You can build a sealant, this is also a silicone mass, it even prevents leakage window frames seal.

The edge not only protects the chipboard from moisture, but also reduces emissions harmful substances

In the cupboard, you should check the presence or absence of a pallet: if it is not there, then the liquid, draining to the bottom of the cabinet, will spoil it. For all kitchen furniture, where it is possible to get wet, one must make it a rule: degrease this place and then do not spare the sealant.

For sealing seams, it is better to use sanitary silicone suitable shade: dark mold spots will not appear on the surface.

The non-laminated edges of the tabletop are closed with connecting or end strips. They are metal or plastic. The protection is not so hot, so the end of the countertop should first be treated with silicone. Another way to protect is to apply furniture varnish or PVA glue to the place of the cut. Suggested construction market self-adhesive films or tape reliable protection cannot be named.

Sealing chipboard joints on the floor

The difficulty lies in the fact that on the floor the slabs are constantly exposed to significant physical activity, they "play" relative to each other. For this reason, the putty does not want to stick. There are several folk ways sealing such seams.

The seams are covered with epoxy mixed with sawdust. Sawdust is pre-sifted finely. The composition seizes very quickly, so you should not prepare a large volume of such putty at once. Such protection serves for a long time and reliably. But the price of epoxy is high, and grouting is expensive.

You can replace the epoxy with hot wood glue. It is necessary to knead sawdust in it and go through the seams.

The effect is even greater than with epoxy, as hot glue penetrates deep inside. This method also saves from moisture, and the joint stops “playing”. True, it is advisable not to walk on such a floor for several days, since carpentry glue dries for a long time.

This method is much cheaper. And if the floor is still covered with linoleum on top, then about damage chipboard boards can generally be forgotten.

Today, the use of recycling waste for the manufacture of secondary materials is very popular. Such products include chipboard, which is currently used as the basis for the construction of various types of products.

This substance has good technical performance, which made it possible to replace them to some extent, even wood. Chipboard is processed with special tools that allow you to obtain parts of certain sizes and shapes. You can find more details where you can also purchase these mechanisms.

We use solutions

Chipboard is trimmed very often, since in production it is made in sheets of a certain length. Of these, subsequently, a lot of different types of products are made, ranging from ordinary partitions to sophisticated furniture. This material is often coated (laminated) special paint.

You can process the butt with several substances:

1. Waterproof adhesive. This is done primarily to protect it from moisture.

2. Special sealants. These substances have the same purpose as the previous type.

beautiful view

We use a special tape

All factory-made chipboard products always have an attractive appearance, but even they have ends. To hide them, a special edging tape is used. It is attached to the edge with a special tool.

Such products can be mounted at home. This material sticks to the end face of the chipboard when heated. This property is used in technological processes.

At home, this can be done with an iron, which is used to heat this product and attach it to the edge of the workpiece.

To give the product an aesthetic shape, the end can be sanded with a special tool and coated with special paint and varnish. In such cases, you can apply different types putties that are designed to work with this type of material.

Edge processing is a very responsible process, since in most cases not only appearance, but also the operating time of the entire product. To obtain high-quality products from chipboard, you should use only special tools that will greatly facilitate the work and allow you to create modern beautiful products.

Video instruction for gluing the edge on the end of the chipboard to help you:

For more than half a century, laying chipboard on the floor has been relevant for finishing floor covering. Continuous improvement of technology and technological processes improves the structure and improve the quality of chipboard.

The plate has become durable, moisture resistant, environmentally friendly. And if we take into account that the basis of the panel is woodworking waste, then in terms of price-quality, the plate is out of competition with others finishing materials. Like a subfloor, a chipboard base will last for decades, extending the life of the flooring.

Characteristics and use of chipboard

The slab is made from sawmill waste, carpentry and furniture woodworking; shavings, sawdust, chips. The product uses wood-shaving material of coniferous and hardwood, and a polymeric thermosetting resin based on phenol-formaldehyde is used to bond the wood particles.

The quality of the panel depends on the dosage of the resin when applied to the wood particles, the lack or excess of the binder leads to the rejection of the product. In the manufacturing process, the boards are sanded, laminated, laminated and veneer is applied.

These panels can be finished not only on floors, but also on walls and ceilings.

By use, chipboard products are divided into general and special purpose(made to order).

Construction panels are used in the decoration of walls, indoor ceilings, and chipboard is laid on the floor as top coat or black base.

According to the properties that determine the use of chipboard products, the panels belong to the P-A and P-B grades, distinguished by physical and mechanical indicators.

Chipboard properties

According to their physical and mechanical properties, chipboard belonging to the groups P - A and P - B, depending on the components used and additives to binder resins, differ in density, strength and water resistance to swelling.

Products of the P - A brand are used for finishing in residential premises, where the release of phenol and formaldehyde from the boards, harmful to human health, does not exceed the norm.

Panels with increased emission of harmful substances are used at facilities such as auxiliary materials or temporary structures.

Chipboard characteristic

According to the properties of chipboard, they are chosen for finishing various objects. When choosing, it is important to find out everything about the panel manufacturer and view product certificates, which reflect laboratory tests samples. The table shows the indicators of physical and mechanical properties constantly produced products.

When choosing chipboard for use in a house or apartment, we check the product for the presence of phenol and formaldehyde in the composition of resins in order to prevent the use of panels with harmful emissions.

Draft floor from chipboard on logs

In damp rooms, particle boards quickly become unusable

The use of chipboard as a base for flooring is justified economically and technically. But, using panels, we take into account the operating conditions of products. In a room where the humidity is above 60% and the temperature is below 10°C, the plates swell and collapse.

This also applies to laying panels on the concrete floor of the first floors. multi-storey buildings. And the draft floor is made of chipboard on the logs, correct solution for long-term operation of plates. The base of the slabs raised above the concrete creates a flat surface on which the coating will last no less than the standard period.

Work order

Chipboard laying scheme

Before laying the logs, we prepare the concrete floor, level the surface concrete screed. We lay the beams on concrete and connect them with jumpers into a rigid frame.

A heater is laid between the lags and lintels, which, together with the chipboard flooring, creates heat and sound insulation of the base. It is easy to assemble a rough floor from chipboard with your own hands, given the procedure for step-by-step instructions:

A strong and rigid frame made of beams and lintels, tightly pressed against the walls of the room and is not attached to concrete base anchors.

The use of a frame made of beams, for the base of the floor covering, allows you to separate the chipboard flooring from concrete floor and insulate the floor, keeping the heat in the room.

Chipboard floor on wooden base

Leveling a chipboard floor is not difficult

Any flooring is laid on a wooden floor, but to serve normative term floors laid on a solid and even base will be able to. This base is old restored floor slats or chipboard.

Leveling a chipboard floor is a simple task and is done on your own. Getting to work with the repair of the old wooden base. We check the logs and floor slats for the presence of rot, wormholes, mechanical damage and replace the defective ones. We cover the logs with an antiseptic solution, we rally the floor boards so that there are no gaps left.

We stretch the wooden coating with an electric planer, remove old paint and level the surface. After checking the levelness of the surface laser level, the base is primed.

Logs for the base frame and floor board for flooring are used with a humidity of not more than 12%. Before installation, the materials are treated with an antiseptic.

Laying chipboard on the floor, the prepared old floor covering from the floor lath, is carried out according to the scheme, which reflects the estimated number of plates. The layout of the panels on the floor of the room is made in a checkerboard pattern and provides for a compensation gap of 1.5 cm of chipboard flooring from the walls of the room.

Before assembling the flooring under the chipboard, we lay a jute underlay to level out the errors of the wooden base and maintain air exchange between the paneling and the wooden floor. Chipboard installation on the floor, we start with processing the plates with drying oil and drilling holes on the panels for fixing screws, we cover the edges of the plates silicone sealant.

Plates are laid from the far corner

We lay the plates from the corner of the wall opposite the entrance to the room, compressing the rows of laid out panels with wedges. Plates of the first row through the prepared holes with self-tapping screws are attached to wooden floor with a gap of 1.5 cm from the wall.

So that the joints of the plates do not coincide in the rows, we lay the 2nd row with a shift by half the plate. We cut one plate in half and apply sealant to the ends. We lay half of the plates at the beginning and end of the row. We compress the row with mounting wedges and fasten the panels with self-tapping screws to the wooden base.

We lay the rest of the chipboard in a checkerboard pattern. If it is provided for in the scheme, then we cut off the last row of plates in order to lay them tightly against the wall. At the end of the laying of the flooring, we close the expansion gap with a plinth, fasten it to the walls of the room. How to level the floor with tiles this material see in this video:

If the chipboard coating was provided as a front one, then we cover the plates with two layers of wear-resistant varnish and after the varnish has dried, the coating is ready for use. And if it was planned to use the flooring from the plates as a subfloor, then we lay laminate or linoleum on it.

For the long-term operation of the floor covering, a base made of concrete, a frame of beams or a floor board is carried out without deviating from the step-by-step instructions.