Hydrangea paniculata is a flowering plant of the Hydrangea family. AT vivo grows in Japan, China, Sakhalin, Kuril Islands in the Primorsky and Amur regions.

General information and description

Due to its high decorative qualities, panicle hydrangea has long settled in the gardens and parks of those countries whose climate allows it to be grown.

Hydrangea paniculata in garden culture is low, about 1.5-2 meters shrub with straight shoots. The leaves are opposite, long - up to 12 cm in length. The inflorescences are large, 20-25 cm in diameter, have a spherical, hemispherical, corymbose or pyramidal shape.

The color of the flowers is white at the beginning of flowering, but eventually becomes pink or light lilac. Often the color of hydrangea flowers depends on the type of soil on which it is grown.

Panicled hydrangea flowers of two types - small fetal and larger, up to 2.5 cm in diameter, barren. Fruiting flowers quickly fade, and in their place small boxes with seeds are formed, sometimes they are collected for propagation. The flowers are infertile until the end of the flowering period. Panicled hydrangea begins to bloom 3 or 4 years after planting.

The roots of the plant spread horizontally - they lie shallow, but go beyond the diameter of the crown, therefore, when caring for the plant, the soil around the roots is loosened to a depth of no more than 5 cm, so as not to hurt the root system.

How to grow a plant?

Hydrangea paniculata easily endures all the hardships that fall to its lot in the garden or in the park, but with careful care it will bloom more abundantly and longer than wild species that grow without any care.

For planting hydrangeas in the garden, it is better to choose a slightly shaded place so that the sun's rays do not fall on it throughout the day. Under the influence of ultraviolet light, hydrangea leaves and flowers quickly lose their decorative effect.

But if you plant a hydrangea in the shade of large fruit trees, they will take most of the moisture and nutrients. In this case, hydrangeas will have to be fed more often, and fertilizers will have to be selected taking into account the needs of fruit trees.

Hydrangea paniculata in winter can withstand temperatures up to -25 degrees, if a harsh winter is expected, in autumn the plant needs to be prepared for winter - cover the roots with leaves or straw, and wrap the branches with agrofibre.

Sometimes plants are prepared for winter in a more serious way - they make a frame of boards around the plant, bend the branches to the ground and cover them with peat, straw, leaves and other covering material. From above, the frame is covered with boards or film, in winter it is additionally insulated with snow. Remove the cover in the spring, when the threat of severe frosts has passed. Such care is especially necessary for young plants, because their frost resistance increases with age.

Hydrangea paniculata loves moisture, so watering is the most important point in caring for it. In summer, especially in hot weather, the plant is watered 3-4 times a week, in large portions - 3-4 buckets per bush.

The plant cannot be sprayed from a hose, because of this the flowers deteriorate, they try to pour water under the bush. To prevent moisture from evaporating too quickly, the soil above the roots can be mulched with peat, which will additional source useful substances.

Hydrangea care in the garden is impossible without the use of fertilizers. However, organic matter and nitrogenous fertilizers can only be used in spring, at the beginning growing season. Otherwise, the plant will increase its green mass, and it will not have the strength to bloom.

In summer, hydrangea can be fed with diluted slurry, but also, in moderation - if the inflorescences are too large, thin branches can break under their weight. For safety net, you can make a low fence that will support branches with inflorescences.

pruning paniculate hydrangea done in autumn and spring. In autumn, old inflorescences are removed, otherwise, under the weight of snow, they will become heavy and the branches will not withstand their weight. Spring pruning is sanitary - at this time, frozen shoots are removed, and healthy ones are shortened for better branching. They leave 3-4 kidneys.

Old hydrangea bushes can be rejuvenated by completely cutting off old branches. After rejuvenation, a new plant will bloom in 1-2 years.

Hydrangea pruning is carried out from the age of three or four, that is, from the time of flowering. young, not flowering bushes no need to cut.

Growing a new plant

Paniculate hydrangea is propagated in three ways - cuttings, air layers and seeds.

For propagation by cuttings, they are cut off during the swelling of the kidneys, so they will take root faster. The cuttings should have two internodes, the bottom cut is made at an angle of 45 degrees, the top cut should be straight.

The lower part of the cutting is deepened by 3-4 cm into a container with a moist soil mixture of sand and peat, the container is placed in a warm, bright place, if necessary, covered with a film, creating a mini-greenhouse.

Caring for the cuttings consists in watering and airing, after rooting they are planted in open ground. As a rule, transplanting cuttings on permanent place occurs 1-2 months after rooting. For the winter, young plants must be covered from frost.

Reproduction of hydrangea paniculata by air layering is the easiest method. To do this, choose the strongest and healthiest shoot, carefully, so as not to damage, bend to the ground, dig in a shallow hole. To secure the shoot, you can use a heavy stone, brick or metal hairpin.

The place of contact of the shoot with the ground is regularly watered, there is no need to feed it separately. When propagated by layering, the young plant can be separated from the parent base and transplanted to a permanent place after a year.

Propagation by seeds at home is not always justified, it is a long and complex process, the result of which is difficult to predict, since new plants may have different characteristics from the parent bush.

Seeds are sown in autumn in a shallow container. The soil mixture for planting is prepared from peat, leafy soil and sand. Seeds do not need to be buried deep, they are very small and may not germinate. It will be enough to scatter them on the surface of moistened soil and compact a little.

The container with crops is covered with a transparent material, which is removed every day for airing and watering. The air temperature above the soil should be within 20 degrees.

Shoots will appear only after 1-1.5 months, after which the cover is removed for the day, setting only in the evening.

Seedlings dive twice, transplant them into separate pots or plastic cups. In winter, they are kept in a greenhouse or in a room, at a temperature of 20-25 degrees. Care for them during this period consists in watering and occasional fertilizing with nitrogen. Before planting in open ground, and this happens 1.5-2.5 years after sowing, young plants are hardened, taking them outside during the day, first for several hours, and then leaving them overnight.

Seedlings are planted in pre-prepared pits with an interval of 1.3-1.6 meters so that they do not interfere with each other when growing.

Hydrangeas in bloom leave no one indifferent. Every amateur gardener dreams of having at least one or two bushes of beautifully flowering hydrangeas in his garden.
Particularly popular are the so-called "colored" varieties of large-leaved hydrangeas, which form many inflorescences of predominantly or blue hues.
Many hybrids of large-leaved hydrangea have been created with different structure and coloration of large inflorescences.

Winter-hardy and easier to care for; its flowers are greenish-white at first, and gradually acquire an attractive “blush” towards autumn.

Traditional methods of hydrangea propagation

Many gardeners propagate hydrangea by layering, but this method is relatively inefficient.
To do this, you need to bend the young outer flexible branches from the growing bush and pin them to the ground (in a hole 15 cm deep) with brackets, tying the ends of the branches to pegs. At the very bottom of the hole, on the underside of the shoot, you first need to make an oblique incision a few cm long and insert a match into the incision; tissue damage will accelerate root formation at that location.
It remains to sprinkle the bases of the pinned shoots with a light mixture of soil and peat, regularly moisten the ground (to save moisture, you can cover the covered hole with a film). These layers eventually form their own roots, and then you can separate them from mother plant and put away for rearing.

By layering in spring or autumn, you can propagate not only hydrangea, but also others with flexible shoots. For example, layering successfully reproduces: Japanese quince (),, garden jasmine(), and etc.

Hydrangea often propagates by cuttings, but this is rather troublesome.
Hydrangea seeds are very small (preliminary stratification is not required); sow them in March.

Hydrangea cuttings are usually carried out in the summer, from mid-June to mid-July.
In cloudy weather or early in the morning, hydrangeas are cut from a bush - annual shoots 10-12 cm long. The lower leaves are immediately removed, a pair of upper leaves with full-fledged buds remains on the handle.
Harvested cuttings are tied into bundles for convenience. The lower half of the cuttings is processed for better rooting.
Treated hydrangea cuttings are planted obliquely in a drained nutrient substrate (a mixture of soddy soil, peat and sand) to a depth of about 5 cm.
It is desirable to use for rooting hydrangeas, which provides plants with high humidity. Otherwise, you will have to spray the rooting cuttings at least once a day, and preferably 2-3 times.
At a temperature of 15-25 degrees, hydrangea cuttings usually take root after a month. Young plants should be carefully covered before the first winter, protecting them from frost.

As you can see, traditional hydrangea cuttings require a lot of trouble!

Reproduction of hydrangeas by the method of digging a seedling

First you need to acquire a strong young blooming hydrangea favorite color, which is desirable to propagate.

A healthy hydrangea with a closed root system (in a pot) develops well during the season; by autumn, the plants form good roots and strong runs.

At the end of August or in September, I dig (horizontally) with loose fertile soil the entire bush of the hydrangea extracted from the pot. Pre-carefully remove all inflorescences and leaves from the bush.

Important: when the hydrangea is completely powdered with earth, all shoots near the bush must be ripe!
Therefore, before powdering, all weak and unripe branches from the bush must be cut off. Otherwise, they can rot in the ground, and then the entire buried hydrangea bush can get sick.

When sprinkled with earth, the hydrangea rhizome itself should be buried below the shoots of the bush. That is, you need to lay the hydrangea bush with its roots down in the dug trench, placing it at a slight slope (about 35 degrees).

When the hydrangea bush is correctly placed, I fill the rhizome of the plant with soil and compact it for reliable contact with the roots; watering. I add a little more soil to the rhizome and compact it again.
When the roots of the hydrangea are securely closed, it remains to place each branch of the hydrangea separately (in a fan) in the trench, and then fill the entire bush with earth from above.

In the spring, when the soil warms up, young shoots will come out of this completely buried hydrangea bush. As many separate stems - future bushes - with independent roots will sprout as there were buds on the mother bush.
It remains only to dismember the hydrangea bush into divisions and plant them.

As a rule, all young hydrangea bushes formed by this method bloom in the same year.

In such a simple way, I quickly and without hassle get two dozen (and sometimes more) seedlings of beautiful, already blooming colored hydrangeas from one young hydrangea bush!

With this easy method of breeding hybrid hydrangea, you can immediately, as they say, "kill two birds with one stone": and reliably protect flower buds from frost in the ground, and propagate in geometric progression bush of a favorite plant.

Petr Samsonovich Kiselev (Istra)

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Often, when visiting the sites of friends and relatives, I found very interesting flowers which I didn't have. Many of them he wanted to buy for a long time, but, for one reason or another, could not. Probably, many of my readers are familiar with this situation. Among them were large-leaved hydrangeas. Now I will talk about how easy it is to propagatelarge-leaved hydrangeasgreen and woody cuttings.

I like it the most propagate large-leaved hydrangea lignified cuttings . Hydrangeas are blooming already next year.

In autumn, cover large-leaved hydrangeas at the usual time, but temporarily. Just wrap them with several layers of 60 grade nonwoven (agrill, agrospan, spunbodl, etc.).

In October, on a warm day (plus temperature), open them. Cut the cuttings 20-25 cm long, the lower cut is straight, the upper is oblique (45 gr.), if there are still leaves, sniff them.

Tie the cuttings according to varieties, 10 pieces each, attach a tag with the name and put them in boxes with sand, which you place in a non-freezing underground. If there is no subfloor, it does not matter! Just lay the cuttings on the ground, on a layer of sand, 10 centimeters is enough.

From above, also, fill it with sand and insulate it folded in several layers. nonwoven fabric. An old, torn one will also come in handy, crumple it and cover the cuttings. Top with regular cling film. Press the whole structure with something heavy so that it is not blown away by the wind.

In the spring, when the snow melts, take out the cuttings. Soak the lower ends (5-7 centimeters) in a heteroauxin solution (for better rooting) and plant them in a stalk or immediately in a container with a substrate, leaving one kidney on top.

Substrate for rooting large-leaved hydrangeas usually consists of two parts of peat and one part of sand. It is very good to replace peat with rotted coniferous litter, it can be combined. In general, any substrate can be used, as long as it is air-moisture-permeable, acidic (does not contain alkali at all) and nutritious.

Capacities to create high humidity air (95-99%), on top you need to close (just put on the pot) a transparent plastic bag. So that it does not press against the handle, insert a support for it, for example, wire bows, just a few sticks, etc.

If you use 0.5 liters for this. plastic glasses (I wrote about this in the article, then cover with a transparent plastic bottle from under the water, after cutting off the bottom and making vertical side (it is easier to insert bottles into glasses) cuts.

Rooting should be done in diffused light. Bright sunlight is not allowed. rooting large-leaved hydrangeas happens for about a month, after which, a package or plastic bottle must be removed. It's best to do this on a cloudy day. large-leaved hydrangeas gradually got used to the dry air. If there is no such weather, then remove the package for several days. First for a few minutes, then for more time, and so on. Rooted this way large-leaved hydrangeas may bloom in the same year. As always, young plants should not be allowed to bloom in the first year, i.e. pinch the buds.

green cuttings large-leaved hydrangeas cut with two or three internodes. The tops of the shoots take root especially well. Cut off the bottom pair of leaves. The middle is shortened by half, the upper ones are left entirely.

large-leaved hydrangeas, propagated by green cuttings, are inferior in development to those obtained by propagation by lignified cuttings.

Of course, this is an amateur option. rooting large-leaved hydrangeas but very efficient. For a small nursery, within a few tens or hundreds of plants, it is not worth buying a fogging installation, it is too expensive, although you can make it yourself, very cheap!

This experience can be very useful in the recent political situation. Russian retaliatory sanctions can and should extend to imports planting material flowers and plants from Europe. It is not clear why we pay in foreign currency? We change non-renewable natural resources something that you can easily do yourself. It is high time to engage in such a profitable business!

If you have questions about rooting large-leaved hydrangeas, ask them.

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Hydrangea is a noble flower, so it is not cheap. What to do when you liked the purchased hydrangea and there is a desire to arrange a whole garden of hydrangeas, and finances do not allow you to treat yourself to buying new seedlings? There is a way out of any situation - to engage in independent reproduction of hydrangeas. In addition to the fact that you will be able to make your dream come true and save money at the same time, the process itself is very exciting. It is a real pleasure for many gardeners to watch how their own offspring develops. To date, the propagation of hydrangeas is represented by at least three options, but the propagation of hydrangeas by cuttings is most popular.

Hydrangea varieties

The most common types of hydrangeas are:

• Hydrangea tree - a very popular variety, which has a second name - white bush hydrangea. Its homeland is North America. The height of the bush can reach 3 m. Hydrangea tree is famous for its huge spherical inflorescences white color with a diameter of 20 cm. At first, the flowers have a light green hue, and when fully bloomed, they become white or cream. This species is quite unpretentious, frost-resistant and shade-tolerant. Hydrangea tree is characterized by a rather long flowering period - from July to November.
• Hydrangea paniculata grows in the wild in Japan and China. The life span of the paniculate hydrangea is about 40 years. Thanks to quickly woody shoots, the perennial tolerates cold well. Flowering begins in July, but the flowers bloom rather slowly. Therefore, only in August you can observe fully opened inflorescences. Cream and white flowers are pyramidal in shape. With the advent of autumn, the inflorescences turn pink, pale purple and green at the end of the season. On the basis of panicle hydrangea, breeders have bred a huge number of hybrids.
• Hydrangea petiolate (climbing) is a lush flowering liana with shoots up to 2.5 meters, which can be run along a support, fences and grown as a tree.
• Hydrangea Sargent is a deciduous vertically growing shrub with thick, slightly branched shoots and umbrella inflorescences of large and small flowers.

What is the timing of hydrangea cuttings

Vegetative propagation can be carried out in three stages: in spring, summer and autumn. In the first case, it is necessary to start even before the sap flow of the plants starts. Take lignified branches from the bush. As a rule, they remain after forming pruning - and they did a useful job, and propagate the hydrangea. Bring them home, warm, and let stand in the water for several days. Propagation of hydrangeas by cuttings in summer can be started from June-July, when the shoots of the current year are already well developed and have gained strength. Choose those that have not had time to woody and have not yet bloomed.

Preparation of hydrangea cuttings

You need to cut off the very top of the shoot, which has 2-3 pairs of leaves. Choose the healthiest specimens. The cut is made under the lowest pair of leaves. Keep an angle of 45°. Then you need to cut off the lower pair of leaves completely along with the petioles, and for the rest, cut the plate in half.

In the event that the propagation of hydrangeas by cuttings occurs in early spring, the prepared branches, after being kept in water for 3-5 days, should be cut into several parts so that each has 3-5 buds.

Propagation of hydrangeas in spring by cuttings

Of all the ways of propagating hydrangeas, cuttings are the most popular method among flower growers. Propagation of hydrangeas by cuttings in the summer is the most reliable option to get exactly the plant that you so want to have in your garden, because all its decorative qualities are visible to the naked eye.

Propagation of hydrangeas by cuttings is carried out after spring pruning, as soon as the buds swell and from June 10 to July 15, or until the shoots become woody. Some experts consider the optimal period - flowering time (mid-July). Flower growers believe that it is better to cut basal cuttings in May - June, but in this case it is necessary to “with a heel”, so that there is a part of last year’s shoot at the base.

Cut cuttings with 2-3 leaf nodes (11-13 cm). A diagonal cut is made 2-3 cm below the lower node, and a straight cut is made 2-3 cm higher than the upper node. Trim the lower pair of leaves from the cutting, and the upper ones by 2/3 of their size.

Treat the cut with a growth stimulator and plant it in a damp place without delay. soil mixture(sand and peat (earth) 1:1) at an angle at a depth of about 2-3 cm and an interval of 4-5 cm in a box or box on a shelf / rack. Spray the substrate a little, and protect the seedlings from direct sunlight. Mist the soil a little daily to keep it slightly damp at all times. Maintain 14-17 °C heat.

After rooting (15-25 days), plant the cuttings in new boxes or on racks, but at a distance of 7-8 cm or in separate small containers (7-9 cm). At the same time, growing hydrangeas in pots is more laborious, and a small number of flowers is better. Feed seedlings weekly with complex mineral fertilizer and additionally nitrogen ( ammonium nitrate). To increase acidity, especially if the leaves have begun to turn yellow, or for prevention, water every 2-3 weeks with acetic acid - 2 ml / 200 ml of water. In the spring, after the onset of stable heat (May), the boxes are taken out to the greenhouses in the garden. 2 weeks before or after pruning, the seedlings are transplanted into pots (they will bloom in them) - 10-13 cm in diameter, but left in a greenhouse with shading from direct sunlight. Varieties in which flower buds form earlier are pruned in early June, and late ones - mid-May. Remove the top of the shoot from above two pairs with normally developed leaves, they will have 3-4 shoots. next spring plant hydrangea seedlings in open ground, and in autumn cover 10-15 cm for the winter with a layer of peat or sawdust.

Hydrangea care after cuttings

Almost all varieties of hydrangea need pruning. Pruning of shoots is recommended to be done in the spring for formation beautiful crown at the bush Pruning of damaged shoots is carried out in the fall. Thanks to pruning, the bush will take shape, and the plant as a whole will properly distribute useful material obtained from the soil.

Of great importance in the care of hydrangeas is regular watering of the plant. Hydrangea is very moisture-loving and needs regular and generous watering. In hot weather, the plant must be watered every 3 days.

Young garden hydrangea bushes, unlike adults, do not tolerate cold and frost very well. Therefore, such plants require shelter. To do this, shrubs are mulched with fallen leaves, spruce branches, sawdust or straw. Immediately after the first frost, in dry weather, the plants cover for the winter.

Diseases and pests of hydrangea

Like any cultivated plant, indoor hydrangea can be affected by diseases and harmful insects. How to recognize them, and most importantly - get rid of them?

1. Gray rot appears on hydrangeas at very high humidity. You can stop its development by treating the flower with Bordeaux mixture.
2. False powdery mildew also affects the plant at high humidity. It is destroyed by fungicides and copper-containing preparations.

Convinced how easy it is to propagate your beauty? Now you can safely buy a beautiful bush, bring a twig from friends or share your plant - you are guaranteed success!

The flower culture "hydrangea" combines several dozen varieties of the Hortensia family. It grows in the form of shrubs with large leaves and very beautiful inflorescences, sometimes there are varieties in the form of small miniature trees or liana. In spite of different forms growth, almost all varieties are united by a spectacular and bright coloring of flowering inflorescences of extraordinary beauty.

Description of culture

Botanical description of the plant:

• root system. Fibrous roots, densely branched, form a wide and shallow root system up to 40 cm and fill the entire volume of planting holes of the shrub.
• The large green leaves of the plant have an oval shape with sharp tops and small veins.
• Long flowering: from early spring to late autumn.
• Manifold color shades: White to dark purple.
• Various forms of inflorescences: in the form of a ball, panicle or umbrella.
• After flowering, instead of buds, fruits are formed in the form of a small box with several sections filled with small seeds.

Hydrangea

Hydrangeas in the form of a shrub or tree can grow in height from 1 to 3 m with a fairly wide rounded crown shape. Lianoid varieties grow up to 30 meters in length, this length is limited only by the height of the tree on which the liana hydrangea climbs.

On a note! There are deciduous or even evergreen varieties. AT middle lane Russia mainly grows deciduous hydrangea.

How to propagate hydrangeas

During flowering, the hydrangea is covered with beautiful multi-colored inflorescences, which are impossible not to admire. Any grower who has ever seen these lovely flowers dreams of planting the same miracle plant in his flower garden. Therefore, almost all gardeners are interested in how to propagate garden hydrangea and grow this beauty in their garden or cottage.

Hydrangea is propagated in several ways:

• Seeds. This breeding method is only suitable for natural plant species. Hybrid and breeding varieties grown from seeds lose their "heredity" and decorative qualities. Planting of seed planting material is carried out directly in boxes filled with nutrient soil. Seeds are placed on the surface of the soil and covered with a dense transparent material. After three weeks, the first shoots of seedlings appear, which must be grown over the course of two years, only in the third year the seedlings can be transplanted into open ground.

On a note! This method is very long and requires a lot of patience.

• Green cuttings. Hydrangea can be propagated by planting cuttings. According to gardeners with extensive experience, such a common method of reproduction allows you to grow a new plant that is identical to the "mother". In order to understand how the garden hydrangea propagates with green cuttings, you should familiarize yourself with the technique of harvesting and growing hydrangeas from the green parts of the stems. Cuttings are harvested in the middle of summer, at the time of the appearance of buds. For this early morning with young plant cut off part of the green stem with leaves and flower buds. Cut branches are placed in water and placed in a shady place, away from hot sunlight. When cutting shoots into cuttings, the green top with buds is cut off. Rooting cuttings are placed for 2 hours in a solution of a plant stimulator, most often Kornevin, Teteroauxin or Zircon are used. Prepared cuttings are planted in a pre-moistened planting mixture of sand and peat, composed in a ratio of 2: 1. After they are covered with transparent glass or plastic cans, under which their own special microclimate is created, ideal for the rapid rooting of planted cuttings. After about a month, new leaves begin to appear on the plants, which is a clear sign of rooting. After that, the banks can be removed, only in the case of early autumn frosts, the seedlings are covered with several layers of covering material. In spring, small hydrangeas can be planted anywhere in the garden for further growth.

On a note! Propagation through cuttings is great for tree hydrangeas.

• Breeding hydrangea offspring. Around the hydrangea bush, you can see shoots of young shoots, which are often used for seating. Layering the offspring of a plant requires great care and attention, because during transplantation, the root system can be damaged. The most suitable time for this method of breeding hydrangea flower culture- this is autumn, when the coppice shoots have grown and are ready for transplantation. Separated offspring must be planted in open ground, where they will grow for one or two years.
• Reproduction by layering. This method does not require special skills and is known to almost every grower. It is necessary to press the branch of the plant tightly to the ground, secure it with a metal pin, sprinkle it with earth or peat. For the formation of roots, it is necessary to constantly moisten the layering. The next year, the seedling of a new hydrangea is separated from the mother bush and planted in a permanent place.
• Transplantation and division of the bush. When transplanting hydrangeas, you can simultaneously propagate the plant by dividing the bush and root parts. In early spring, the plant previously watered with water is dug up and, after washing the rhizome, it can be divided into parts. After dividing, the bushes should immediately be planted in the soil, the new planting is plentifully watered with settled water. This method is applicable to all varieties of Hydrangeas, with the exception of the paniculate variety.

How to propagate hydrangeas

Choosing the season for breeding

For each method of reproduction of a large family of Hortensias, there are optimal timing dilutions:

• Spring is perfect for dividing the shrub. At this time of the year, the plant is just waking up after hibernation and will easily endure the stress shock from dividing the rhizome. The bush quickly adapts to a new landing site and quickly starts to grow.
• Summer comes the most auspicious moment for plant cuttings. The bark of green shoots has not yet begun to lignify, which greatly facilitates the process of cutting chibouks.
• Planting Hydrangea seeds is best done in the first spring month - March.
• You can plant a bush with layering in spring and autumn.
• In autumn, you can transplant a bush and at the same time divide it into new specimens.

On a note! If we compare the spring and autumn planting of hydrangeas, then it is best to give preference autumn planting plants. At this time of the year, the plant will easily endure the stress of the transplant, it will not be tormented summer heat, and it will not suffer from increased evaporation of moisture. After transplanting, the bush is watered abundantly and the soil around it is mulched with peat or compost.

Often in central Russia, autumn is cold and rainy, and in the regions of Siberia and the Urals, winter cold already sets in at the end of autumn. In this case, it is recommended to plant the plant in early May, when the threat of return has passed. spring frosts that can damage the delicate hydrangea buds.

The process of reproduction of hydrangeas

Although self-propagation of hydrangeas is considered a troublesome and time-consuming process, almost every novice florist wants to try his hand and grow this beautiful and fragrant miracle in his flower garden. Therefore, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the advice of flower growers with extensive experience in growing the Hortensia family.

1. At the beginning, the seedling must be prepared for planting. Leaves are cut from it, green young shoots are cut off.
2. A bush prepared for planting is laid at an angle in a finished trench, dug in such a way that the rhizome can be placed in it lower and the stems of the plant higher.
3. The root part is sprinkled with earth and carefully compacted.
4. The branches of the bush are fanned out in a trench and also covered with earth.
5. Winter care for seedlings consists in additional shelter with a layer of peat or humus.

In the spring, after the soil warms up, the buds of the plant on dug branches wake up and actively begin to develop. At first, young shoots feed on a common root, but after they form their own root system. By the end of summer, the bush is dug up and rooted new small hydrangeas are separated, suitable for breeding new bushes.

This interesting and unusual propagation method helps to get a dozen new plants with a well-developed rhizome from one bush.