How to make the right floor in a wooden house: options, stages of work, materials. Types and features of wooden finishing floors

For a variety of reasons wooden houses And concrete plates with cement-sand screeds are poorly combined. In the vast majority of cases, floors in buildings built of wood are made using wooden beams. Accordingly, the floors here are special. We will talk further about how they work, what options exist, and what floor design will be most effective.

Principles of implementation of floors in wood construction technologies

Note that beam ceilings are characteristic not only for a frame, log or timber house, similarly they create a very large percentage of private cottages built of brick, various blocks, or cast from concrete in one way or another. That is, almost everything stated below will be relevant for private construction in general.

Modern requirements for comfort, energy efficiency and durability residential buildings grow every year. In order for the house to serve as long as possible and without problems, you need to pay due attention to all its elements, without exception. It may seem that the floor is a kind of secondary structure, but this is far from the case. Wooden floors must be considered in combination with ceilings, because they, in fact, function as a whole.

When considering the construction of wooden floors in a cottage, two types of systems should be distinguished:

• floors of the 1st floor,
• floor on interfloor ceilings (one and a half, second, third level ...).

They will work differently, and the requirements for them will be different. In the first case, we have an enclosing outdoor structure, regardless of what is under them - ground preparation with an air cushion or a basement / cellar. Here it is necessary to protect the interior from the cold, as well as from moisture, which tends to penetrate into the room from below.

The floors of the second or third floor do not need insulation and waterproofing (with the exception of those located above the bathrooms, pools, steam rooms ...), but it is extremely important to create a system that will prevent the spread of impact, airborne and structural noise.

In both cases, the task is to obtain the construction:

• in terms of performance, it complies with all applicable building codes;
• able to live no less than the whole house;
• as light, simple and inexpensive as possible;
• technological in terms of installation and maintenance;
• environmentally friendly;
• ensuring the correct functioning and aesthetics of the finishing floor covering.

On the lags or on the beams

Obviously, it's faster and cheaper for the homeowner to lay the deck straight over the floor joists and then lay down the top coat. But the problem is that the beams are usually rigidly tied with bearing walls. Because of this, any impact noise: walking, moving heavy objects, the operation of engineering equipment and household appliances- all this is immediately “given” to adjacent structures and disperses around the house. That is, there is a huge risk of generating structure-borne noise.

In addition, some shifts are possible in a wooden house (this is even if we do not take into account the shrinkage of the "logs"), they can affect the quality of the fit of the flooring elements, cause gaps, creaks, and deformation of the planes.

In some cases (especially in the basement), the step between the beams is too large to be sewn directly to them without using a board with an exorbitantly large cross section and mass. Very often, the upper edges of the beams lie relative to each other with a rather large horizontal difference, which greatly complicates or makes it impossible to create an even floor over them.

The use of logs perpendicular to the floor elements helps to avoid such problems, since they can not be fixed rigidly to the beams, moreover, it is recommended to expose them through elastic damper pads without using any fixing brackets or through metal fasteners. Logs are not tied up with load-bearing walls and others stationary structures, such as flights of stairs, columns, etc. They are not even brought close, leaving a technological gap of 10-15 mm between the ends of the bars and the walls, and the extreme logs in the room are placed at a distance from the walls (up to 10 centimeters).

In essence, this forms a "floating" floor base, which is valued for its soundproofing capabilities and stability.

Important! Some craftsmen offer customers to make floors in which "lags" run along the floor beams (sewn to them from the side). Thus, they get the opportunity to level the draft plane, but even when using vibration damping pads, the noise level of such floors is too high. The secondary role of mounting the lag in this way is to create a ventilation gap (in our diagram above, this is already provided).

The optimal spacing of the lag, as well as the appropriate section of lumber for their creation, depends on many variables (material and thickness of the flooring, the distance between the support points - beams, design loads ...) and is determined in each specific case separately.

If we talk about the type and quality of the lumber used, then they are usually produced from a bar or board of the 1st grade in such a length that they are enough from wall to wall without joints. Basically, production is in progress natural humidity or “dried”, how to dry lumber you can find in the article Atmospheric drying, ideally planed. Pine or spruce as a raw material for logs has proven to be excellent, primarily due to the good ratio of cost, moisture resistance and strength characteristics. An integral rule when working with lumber is antiseptic treatment of all wooden elements. We recommend using OZONE -007. You can also use aspen boards, which are usually easy to buy.

Why and how to make a draft floor

When talking about the subfloor, then we can talk about two things. Or about flooring over beams or a log, which carries one or two more layers (depending on the option you choose - fine flooring and topcoat); or about filing from the bottom of the floor beams.

We will consider the first version of the subfloor below, but let's talk about the filing here. Beam hemming performs several functions:

• It is a supporting base for insulating materials, because in most cases they are located just between the beams. Not only the insulation relies on the lining, but also sound insulation, films and membranes - the whole technological pie.
• It can simultaneously be the finishing lining of the ceiling, both with solid cladding, when the ceiling is hidden, and in such interiors where the beams remain visible on the lower floor (a rather fashionable country-style solution today). In both cases, the filing material hides the “contents” of the floor - frame elements, hidden communications, insulating layers.
• Due to the high coefficient of heat transfer resistance of wood, the filing works as an element that reduces the amount of heat loss. Being part of a complex multi-layer structure, it helps to stop the flow of airborne noise between floors.

Technically, the filing can be made from any materials intended to create planes. But when implementing the carrier base, it is most advantageous to use a grade 2 edged board, with a thickness of 20-25 mm and a face width of 100 to 200 mm. If it will play the role of a ceiling, then it makes sense to use a lining with a “classic”, “softline” or “calm” profile, the front side of which will be turned down.

Installation of a rough filing or "facing" is sometimes carried out using cranial bars, which are fixed between the beams. This option is quite complicated, since the master has to fasten a lot, measure and cut very accurately a large number of boards of small length so that it becomes as dense as possible between the bearing elements of the floor. It is more convenient and faster to hem the beams along the lower edge with long lumber, getting a solid plane. But, it should be noted that sometimes it makes sense to use boards 3 meters long, which will be easy to get under the beams (especially important when filing the basement, where there is quite a bit of space), but at the same time it will be possible to fix the part on several beams at once.

Types of flooring, what to do

Finish coating. A solid grooved board with a thickness of 28 to 45 mm and a width of 110 to 140 mm can be considered a classic of the genre. This type of lumber is specially designed to create a wooden floor, it is made of needles dried to 12-15 percent moisture, usually has a well-planed front surface. This material is made from high-grade raw materials (products belong to category “A”), environmentally friendly without any compromises.

But the main advantage similar products consists in the presence of a groove and a ridge. Firstly, we get a flooring that does not have through gaps along the plane, in contrast to technologies using edged board. The lock prevents blowing, the spread of sounds and cold. Secondly, the elements of the tongue and groove make it possible to fasten the finished floorboard to the joists hidden when a nail or screw is installed at an angle through a groove or tongue, the so-called "parquet" method. Thirdly, most models of floor piling are endowed with a groove on the back side, which, in any design, provides ventilation for the flooring.

Draft flooring (floor). It is not necessary to use a tongue-and-groove planed board to form the base for laying the final flooring, although it is of course also excellent. In this case, a cut board of the first and even second grade will show itself normally.

Important! A rough flooring (floor) from edged boards is made even before the creation of wooden floors from tongue-and-groove solid wood. By mounting the floor tongue across the solid rough flooring, it is possible to obtain a structure that is very resistant to bending loads and completely eliminate the appearance of creaking in the future. After all, its cause is usually the friction of adjacent lamellas against each other when the fixation is weakened and the boards deflect when walking.

Also, when choosing components for assembling a finishing floor, you should pay attention to sheet materials, which make it possible to make the floor quickly and with a minimum of joints. These include:

Is wood floor insulation necessary?

Unfortunately, a wood floor can only be considered “warm” figuratively. If it is operated on the ground floor, then insulation is indispensable. Whichever of the modern insulators is used, with indicators of 0.3-0.44 W / (m * C), its thickness should be from 100 mm. Styrofoam, cotton wool or XPS is available in this thickness, but it is better to apply 2-3 or even 4 layers of 50 mm each to arrange the plates in a “staggered pattern” and close all the gaps.

If we consider the performance and practicality different type insulation, then the clear leader (many experts believe that for a wooden floor in a wooden house is the only option) will be mineral wool. It is distinguished by elasticity and some compressibility, therefore it can be easily adjusted to any step of the beams, where it becomes completely open without obvious gaps. It is vapor permeable, therefore it is able to display excess moisture from the room without causing condensation inside the structures. It does not burn, therefore it significantly increases the fire resistance of wooden floors, becoming a fire barrier. Mineral wool slabs are absolutely safe for humans and can be used in residential areas without any problems.

Due to its fibrous structure, it is cotton wool that absorbs sound air waves and impact noise in the best way. Therefore, it is this material that is placed in the ceilings of the upper levels to ensure proper sound insulation. These can be both universal models and products specially tailored to combat noise.

Inside the construction of a framed wooden floor, it is allowed to use both fiberglass-based wool and basalt rock wool ( stone wool). Given that there is no pressure on the insulation, products of relatively low density (from 23 kg / m3) are suitable for installation in such systems. And since the orientation of the thermal insulation is purely horizontal, and no slipping is expected, there are no contraindications to the use of wool mats supplied in rolls.

It should be noted that for normal operation mineral wool, it must be supplemented with building films. In the floor of the first floor and in the floors above wet rooms, before laying the insulation on the rough filing, a waterproofing sheet is first laid. As a rule, such is reinforced polyethylene, which differs from the usual one in increased strength and durability.

Important! No matter how perfect the hydro and vapor barrier measures are, all elements hardwood floor and wooden floors must be treated with impregnating compounds with an antiseptic effect, which in the event of an "accident" will help to avoid the spread of rot or fungus, for example, OZONE 007.

On top of the wool, to prevent the emission of fibers into the room and protect the insulator from external moisture from the side of the room, the insulation layer is covered with special membranes, including superdiffusion ones, which allow the wool to always be dry. There is one very important point: Finished wood flooring must not back side touch the insulation or some of the films, otherwise there will be problems with the ventilation of the subfloor and the durability and efficiency of the structure may be reduced. Therefore, it is necessary to create a ventilation gap with additional spacers. This can be a rough flooring (floor) under a tongue-and-groove floorboard, logs, or a counter rail up to 40 mm thick if the floors are laid directly along the floor beams.

Cheap flooring for most consumers associated with the use of wood products. Pine materials are inexpensive. The most expensive of them are solid wood and parquet. In their production, natural wood of especially valuable plant species is used.

Arranging a wooden floor in a house or apartment, you can get by with more affordable and cheaper materials: pine, parquet or laminated boards. In addition, original technologies for finishing a wooden floor have now been invented.

Materials for cheap wood flooring

When the phrase " cheap" is pronounced, associations arise with low-quality, substandard, second-rate material. However, among products made from natural wood, there are worthy budget copies with high characteristics in terms of quality and consumer capabilities.

In most cases, the device of a cheap floor is associated with the use of wood. The base and top coat are made from it. In private houses, this design consists entirely of wooden parts: log, rough flooring. In apartments of high-rise buildings, boards are thrown over concrete floor, creating a smooth canvas, which is used as an independent coating or as a base for linoleum, laminate, carpet, tile.

If you plan to cover the boards with other material, there is no need to buy expensive products. Suitable are those that have minor flaws: blue, knotty. These defects will hide the canvas of the finishing floor.

Draft coating of a wooden floor in a private house and apartment

For rough cheap flooring, pine boards are suitable. These are the cheapest wooden crafts. They are made from natural wood, which is harvested throughout our country. In different regions, pine has its own structure and density. The most valuable specimens grow in the North and Siberia. They make excellent building materials.

With natural pine boards at the base, a cheap one will last a long time and will keep warm and comfortable for the inhabitants of the apartment all this time. It is best to put parquet or laminated products made from components close to natural on them.

As a base for a topcoat, you can purchase cheap products that have undergone partial processing. They must be absolutely dry without obvious defects (curvature, insect damage, large holes from knots) with smooth edges, but not planed. Such preparation of boards for use makes the floor much cheaper without affecting the basic quality characteristics.

Rough cheap floor in a private house they are mounted on logs made of timber. In apartments, thick boards are laid on concrete in increments of 30-40 cm. These products can also be created from pine. Before use, they are treated with an antiseptic so that mold, fungus or insects do not start.

Cheap flooring finish

Pine plank can be used as floorboards to finish a cheap wood floor. In this case, you will need smooth and even specimens that have gone through the entire woodworking cycle. They must have absolutely even edges so that wide gaps do not form at the joints. Now manufacturers supply massive boards with "locks". This allows you to stack them as tightly as possible and does not allow them to diverge.

For the installation of a wooden floor, you need the appropriate tool.

In addition to the relatively cheap cost, pine boards have many other advantages:

• beautiful drawing and pronounced relief;
• light shade;
• the ability to use in any style of interior;
• holding capacity paintwork, preserve natural lines and color under transparent formulations;
• warmth and pleasant sensations during tactile interaction
• actual cost of the product.

Covered with varnish or transparent oil, cheap looks spectacular in the interior country house and city apartments.

For cheap pine board you can, carpet, and other floor products. It retains strength and reliability for a long time.

The cheapest floor video

Cheap wooden floor with original finishes

If there is not enough money to purchase and use massive boards and expensive modern products, you can use interesting finishing technologies and build a cheap floor with your own hands. For example, a bulk decorative coating made of paper.

For a cheap floor you will need

• thick wrapping paper (old bags);
• building glue PVA;
• wood stain;
• parquet varnish.

The process of preparing and finishing a cheap floor

1. First, the floorboards are processed. They are cleaned, smoothed and smoothed. The gaps between the floorboards are sealed or covered with a special putty. The woodwork must be perfect. To make it so, plywood is often used. Its sheets are additionally coated with a primer.
2. The paper is torn or cut into small pieces. So you can create the effect of a stone coating. If there is a desire to make a “skin”, the paper is crushed and placed under a press for 12 hours. The clippings will straighten out, but the characteristic lines will remain.
3. In a bucket, glue and water are diluted one to one.
4. Each piece of paper is straightened and dipped in the liquid mixture, removing excess glue by hand.
5. Either side of it is placed on the wooden surface of the floor and straightened. The next piece is placed, slightly, by 0.5 mm, overlapping the previous one. Everything is rolled with a roller to remove excess air.
6. The floor covering is left for 2-3 days until completely dry.
7. After this time, the floor is smeared with the same adhesive mixture: water and PVA - 1: 1 and left to dry.
8. To even out the color of paper, which can have a different shade from different sides, stain is used. certain color. It will give the coating a woody shade of light or dark tone. In order not to miss the color, first conduct an experiment with a small amount of paper soaked in glue. When the desired result is achieved, the stain is used for the entire floor in the room.
9. After 3-4 days after applying the stain, the floor will dry, and it will be possible to cover it with parquet or other varnish intended for finishing. wooden surfaces. Varnishing should be carried out 2-3 times so that the glued paper is well kept on the boards.

Despite the fact that the process of creating this decorative cheap flooring takes a lot of time and requires strength and patience, it looks spectacular, resembles natural expensive wood, leather or stone chips, and costs a penny. It's warm and cozy on such a cheap floor. When it is created, harmful chemical components are practically not used, so it turns out to be environmentally friendly, odorless. It is easy to take care of him. He is not afraid of exposure to moisture and temperature changes. In principle, such a wooden floor is not much different from a modern laminate. Only typed by hand, and the panels are made in compact products.

cheap floor- does not mean unpresentable, poor quality, second-rate. Any, even substandard, wood waste can be turned into spectacular original canvases. Designers suggest using improvised means and waste materials: sawdust, shavings, paper and creating unusual coatings from them. Of course, they will not last as long as factory products, and they can not be used in every room. However, anyone who wants to make a cheap wooden flooring with their own hands can be sure of its exclusivity.

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Everyone understands that it is impossible to live indoors without arranging the floor. Whether it's a house or an apartment, you can't do without it. But whether a draft floor is needed in a wooden house, not everyone knows. Why do we need additional expenses for its arrangement? Isn't it possible to get a clean finish? And what is meant by this name? This article is for those who want to figure it out and make a subfloor on their own.

What is a subfloor?

The draft floor is a kind of base for a finishing coating, creating a horizontal flat plane for it. It serves to distribute the load on the floor covering.

The classics of the draft coating is considered to be the device of the subfloor on the logs. This is exactly what is usually done in wooden buildings. For him, logs with a certain distance from each other are laid on the base base. On the large areas provide a double frame system, the so-called crate.

In it, between the lags, jumpers from a bar (crossbar) are installed. At the same time, the horizontal alignment of the surface of the logs is constantly monitored. A cranial bar is attached to the lower part of the lag. On it, the subfloor is laid from plywood or wood board. Subsequently, insulation material and waterproofing are laid between the lags.

Insulation and vapor barrier are laid on top of the subfloors. For the manufacture of a rough coating, wood chip or fibreboard or plywood

Stages of subfloor device

And now more about how to make a rough floor with your own hands. There are two options for installing a lag: on the floor or on the base. In any case, before installing the subfloor, it is necessary to take care of the ventilation of the subfloor. For her, it is enough to drill a few round holes in the corners of the house. Subsequently, they are closed with bars. Also, before starting work, the entire underground space is treated with an antiseptic. These measures serve as a guarantee of the strength and durability of a wooden house.

Preparing the lag for construction

In fact, logs are bars from which a frame is made for the future floor. For them, boards made of wood of the second or third grade are used. Since such logs usually have an uneven surface, they must be prepared before use.

To do this, the side on which the finishing floor will be attached must be leveled with an ax. It will not work to make the surface perfectly flat, but it is necessary to level it a little. The horizontality of the finishing coating depends on this. From above, the logs are covered with antiseptics.

Before laying the log, grooves are made in the upper crown of the walls. Planed logs should lie exactly in these grooves, but with a distance from the end to the walls of 2-3 mm. Later, a gasket is installed between them for sound insulation. In addition to the grooves in the beams, for long logs, additional support is installed in the form of brick pillars. The distance between the lags depends on the thickness of the boards used for flooring. The thinner the boards, the more often the lags are located.

Under boards with a thickness of 35 mm, the distance between the lags is at least 50 cm, 35-40 mm - 80 cm, more than 40 - 100 cm

Note! After installing the lag, their ends must be fastened together. This is necessary so that they do not disperse in the process of laying the roughing boards.

The surface of the base before performing work is leveled, covered with crushed stone and compacted. Next, measurements and markings for supports are made. Either a grillage covered with roofing felt, or bars can act as supports. bottom strapping. In the first version, the mark is placed on the roofing material, in the second, on the bars.

The horizontality of the lag is checked not only relative to the ground, but also relative to each other. They must lie on the same level. The maximum allowable deviation per 1 m² is not more than 1 mm

Support pillars are installed on a foundation, the minimum dimensions of which for one element are 40 × 40 cm. Its height must be at least 20 cm, and 5 of them are above the ground. They put on supports under the logs waterproofing material. It will protect the wood from mold. Logs are attached to the posts with the help of corners and self-tapping screws with dowels. The same device has a draft floor in a brick house.

timber fastening

For support under the draft floor on the logs, a bar with a section of 50 × 40 mm or 50 × 50 mm is used. Attach it to the bottom of the lag on both sides. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the size of the future insulation, which will be laid on the rough coating. It is more economical not to purchase ready-made bars, but to buy a 150 × 40 board and dissolve it into three parts. As a result, three bars of 50 × 40 mm will be obtained from one board.

Subfloor laying

Perform a draft floor of plywood or sheets of OSB, chipboard. It is advisable to use boards with tongue-and-groove ends with a thickness of about 20 mm. Applicable sheet materials 12 mm thick in two layers. To secure them securely around the entire perimeter, a crate is made of additional transverse bars to the lags. Subfloor boards are fixed with self-tapping screws in increments of 90-140 mm. If the floor is made of sheet materials, the joints should fall on the central axis of the additional beams.

Note! Some craftsmen advise using not high-quality material for the subfloor, but a junk board, slab or picket fence. This is due to the fact that the rough coating reacts to changes in humidity and temperature. And such material is capable of deformation.

Having finished installation work, start laying thermal insulation material and waterproofing. You should be very careful. Sub-floor boards can break under heavy weights. Therefore, it is advisable to walk along the logs or thick boards thrown over them.

Results and video with an example of work

That's all, the rest is in your hands. Unnecessary, it would seem, waste on such a device of floors will pay off over time. A layer of insulation laid on a rough coating will help save on heating. And you will agree that this is a significant argument in favor of the device of the subfloor. In addition, a high-quality rough floor is a guarantee of the durability of the finish coating.

On a leveled base - a screed or lags - a finishing coating is laid, the so-called finishing floor. There are quite a few types of floor coverings in our time, and the ways of laying them are different. Let's consider the main ones.

plank floor

Plank floors are laid directly on the beams, if their step is relatively small (Fig. 77, a). With rarely spaced beams, logs are additionally laid across them with a section from 60 x 80 mm to 100 x 100 mm with the desired step, and a plank floor is already arranged along them. In any case, an air gap is formed under the floor, which must be able to communicate with the room air to remove vapors from the floor structures. To do this, ventilation grilles are installed in the floor at the corners of the rooms or ventilation is provided from under the baseboards around the perimeter of the room.

Boards should be selected so that the cleaner ones, without knots, pins and other defects, are laid in rooms, and with defects - in corridors, semi-dark and dark rooms. Moreover, in the corridors, the logs are laid across, and the boards - along the direction of movement. Boards, especially wide ones, are laid in annual layers in different directions, then after drying the do-juice, the floor covering will be more even (see Fig. 20, a-d).

If the boards are edged, then their front sides are planed. It is also better to sharpen and cut off the edges, then they fit more closely together when rallying. The edges are planed at a right angle or (which is better) with a slight inclination inward (Fig. 78, a). Excessive beveling tends to chip the edges, resulting in large gaps. When jointing the edges, the boards are folded one on top of the other, inaccuracies are immediately corrected.

If the plank floor is laid as a rough floor, small gaps must be left between the planks during laying to prevent friction between them. The movement of the wooden parts of the floor will cause a creak. Most often, the floor creaks from a poorly laid low-quality board. Since good boards are rarely used for a subfloor, gaps are necessary in this case.

The floorboards are laid across the log and carefully rallied with wedges (Fig. 78, c). The joints of the boards, if their length is not enough to cover the entire room, should be located only on the logs. For boards longer than 4m, three clamps are used: one clamp is installed on a log in the middle of the room, the other two - on the second extreme logs, counting from the walls. The boards are fastened to the logs with nails from above - two in each log. The heads must be drowned, since the resulting surface will most likely have to be leveled by planing, and the remaining holes must be puttied before the final painting.

When laying out the boards, they are pre-aligned in the plane of the floor. If individual boards on the joists are not level with the rest, this should be corrected immediately. A gasket is placed under the sagging board (a piece of plywood or fiberboard suitable thickness), and the protruding board is trimmed at the point of contact with the log (Fig. 78, b).

It is convenient to lay the finishing floors from standard milled floorboards. They are produced with a width of 68 - 138mm and a thickness of 28 and 36mm. At the bottom of each board, a longitudinal recess (air) with a height of 2 mm is selected, due to which a closer contact with the logs is achieved and at the same time constant air circulation throughout the inter-lag space in order to prevent the development of mold and drying of the flooring. Floorboards can also be tongue-and-groove - have grooves on both sides - and be connected with a rail during assembly (Fig. 78, e). The density of such floors and the quality of the finish are higher than those of milled ones.

When laying the floor, the first board is laid against the wall with a groove with an indent of 10 - 15 mm, which is fixed with the help of calibrated gaskets (Fig. 78, pos. 6). The board is attached to the log with nails, the length of which is 2 - 2.5 times the thickness of the boards. Nails are hammered closer to the wall - so that their hat is under the plinth.

When installing the next board, its groove is put on the crest of the previous one with a hammer through a wooden gasket so as not to leave dents on the board (Fig. 78, d). To prevent the board from rebounding along its length, a tongue-and-groove bar is laid on the adjacent log, which is wedged against a steel bracket. After that, in inner corner a nail is hammered into each lag at an angle of 45 °, and the hat is sunk into the thickness of the wood with the help of a finisher (Fig. 78, e). Nails should be hammered first into the extreme logs, then into the remaining ones, adjusting each with a hammer.

It is also possible to nail boards, especially those without ridges, in the usual way - vertically, flattening the hats and driving them 2 - 3 mm deep so that the tool is not damaged when leveling the boards. The holes around the hats will have to be puttied before painting the floors.

In this way, all the boards are laid, except for the last 2 - 4, which are first laid freely with a gap of 10 - 15 mm against the wall, and then they are planted on spikes. The last boards should be pressed with a wedge and a straight nail should be driven into the plinth area (Fig. 79). The gaps between properly laid boards should not exceed 1mm.

Wood and plywood floor

Chipboard, fiberboard and MDF are mainly used as a subfloor - the basis for a decorative coating. Much less often they serve as a finishing floor, as they are not aesthetically pleasing, they easily absorb moisture, deforming at the same time, and wipe quickly enough. Although it must be admitted that this is the most economical type of flooring. Somewhat more practical, although more expensive, plywood. In addition, it is able to return to its original form after drying. Even more expensive is laminated plywood, which has increased water resistance and wear resistance. However, building boards began to be produced specifically for use as floor coverings. They are stronger and more rigid than standard plates, have tongues and ridges for joining at the ends, better tolerate moisture and can have a decorative coating. Slabs without such a coating are usually just painted, as varnishing will not improve their appearance. Lacquer open plywood, which has the texture of natural wood.

However, one of the particle materials can be used to finish the floor, deliberately leaving the surface uncovered. It's about about OSB, the rigidity of which, which is very important when choosing a floor covering, significantly exceeds that of traditional chipboard. OSB as an element of floor covering is produced with a tongue and groove, ensuring their strong connection.

Against the background of the bright structure of oriented strand boards, traces of abrasion and scratches that are inevitable during operation are almost invisible. While scratches or stains are clearly visible on a sanded wood floor with a uniform texture, especially in the direction against the lines of the texture, then OSB with a rough pattern hides such imperfections to some extent. During manufacture, its surface is only lightly polished, but not completely finished, so that it can be finalized and designed taking into account individual wishes. After applying a transparent varnish, the unusualness of such a structure is even more emphasized, and the floor surface does not look monotonous.

Slabs and thick plywood can be laid both on logs and on a concrete screed. If laying will be carried out on a concrete screed and the slab acts as a leveling or insulating substrate for linoleum, laminate, carpet, etc., its thickness can be 8 - 10 mm. For flooring on logs or floor beams, the thickness of the plates must be selected depending on the distance between the logs. So, with a lag step of 0.4 - 0.6 m, it is possible to use OSB with a thickness of 15 - 18 mm, and if the step is 0.7 - 1 m, it is better to use a 22 mm OSB. Chipboard should be taken no thinner than 18mm or laid in 2 layers with a large lag step.

Chipboard and plywood, if they are not moisture resistant, should be oiled at least twice before laying. This will increase the rather low ability of chipboard to resist the action of moisture. OSB resists moisture much better.

For fiberboard on the logs, you will have to lay a draft floor from boards (Fig. 80, a). It is fiberboard that is most often used when they want to quickly and inexpensively fix an old plank floor.

Screed flooring

It is better to start laying from the threshold, and lay the trimmings in places where the furniture will stand, or in areas of the room remote from the entrance. The plates dried after drying oil are glued to the screed. It is recommended to prime the screed beforehand and wait for it to dry completely. Glue or mastic is applied under each sheet separately as it is laid and evenly distributed over the surface with a spatula. Place the slab carefully and press firmly (at least stand on it, just don't jump). When laying the next slab, grease the tongue-and-groove joint with glue and seal the connection of the slabs with a mallet, protecting the end with a bar, as when rallying the boards (see Fig. 78, d). If the ends are smooth, you can use furniture dowels or nails with bitten off hats to fasten the plates together. It is even better to mill or cut grooves at the ends and connect the plates to each other on an insert rail.

But glue alone is not enough to securely fix the plates, and in order to avoid peeling off in some places, they are additionally attached to the base. For example, they shoot dowel-nails from a mounting gun. It is possible to drill the plates together with the screed in the center and along the perimeter with a 06 - 8mm drill, insert dowels into the holes and fasten them with screws with wide caps. A standard sheet requires at least five attachment points. The recessed hats are then smeared with texture putty.

Fiberboard on a cement screed is glued mainly with bituminous mastics (Fig. 80, b, c). After setting, the screed is cleaned of dirt and coated with a bituminous primer. After 40 - 48 hours, when the primer dries up and stops sticking, hot bituminous mastic is applied to the screed and solid slabs are laid. Hot mastic cools quickly, so it needs to be applied only under one sheet. On a dry screed, fiberboard can be glued with PVA glue or its analogues, smearing both the surface of the screed and the bottom surface of the sheet. The base, as mentioned above, must be primed with the same composition.

Flooring on logs

The floor on the logs is warmer than on the concrete or cement screed. In addition, fastening plates or plywood to the logs is easier to perform. The design of such a flooring is similar to that of plank floors, but the logs can be much smaller in height - up to 30mm. Their thickness should allow the joints to be securely fastened, that is, they should be at least 80 mm. It is convenient to make such logs from a thick board laid flat, or a pair of boards knocked together and also laid flat. Antiseptic fiberboard and roofing felt or roofing felt for waterproofing are placed under the boards (Fig. 80, a).

It is desirable that all plates are the same size for one room. Their width should be a multiple of the step of the lag, so that the joints of the plates are located in the center of the lag, and with the necessary allowance for filing the edges. The distance between the lags is marked depending on the resulting width of the plates, but not more than 400 mm.

It is very important to make an accurate drawing of the layout of the rooms and the flooring of the sheets. Logs should be installed in such a way that the joints of the sheets fall exactly in the middle of the log, and in places of the most intense movement - in the middle of the room, near the stove, near the refrigerator, in doorways- Joints should be avoided.

Tongue-and-groove boards should be placed with the long side at right angles to the joists. Edged boards and plywood, on the contrary, are laid so that the joints between the long sides are in the center of the beams, and in the places where the short sides are joined between the logs, wooden lintels must be nailed perpendicular to the logs. The distance between the wall and adjacent joists should not exceed 30 - 40mm, and the edges of the slabs should not hang over the joist by more than 100mm.

The first slab is laid from the corner of the room, carefully pressed against the base and its horizontal position is checked with a level rail. A gap of 10 - 15 mm is left at the wall, then covered with skirting boards. If the plates have a groove and a crest, the first row of plates is laid with grooves against the walls. Make sure that the ends of the plates form one line.

After that, the plate or sheet is attached to each log with self-tapping screws with a diameter of 4 mm or nails with a diameter of 2.5 - 3 mm. The length of the nail is selected in accordance with the thickness of the lag, as well as the plate or sheet: it is at least twice the thickness of the material into which the nail is driven. Nails are hammered along the edge of the plate with a step of 150 - 200mm, screws - 250 - 300mm. In chipboard, nails are driven at an angle of 45 °. Hats of nails are sunk with a doboynik. Holes may need to be countersunk for screw heads in solid boards. The fastening distance from the edge of the sheet in any case should be at least 20 - 30 mm.

Of course, you can lay chipboard exclusively on glue, but this is less reliable way. In places of intensive use, the plates may peel off over time, and repairs will have to be done much earlier than planned.

Hardboard flooring

Fibreboard is cheap and easy to install. For most rooms, 3mm thick slabs are suitable. If the floor is uneven, you can use thicker plates - 6mm, but it is still better to pre-level the base. On the first floors, fiberboard should be used that is resistant to moisture and has oil impregnation. In other cases, they must be moistened before laying, otherwise they will deform later. To bring the humidity of the plates to the level of room humidity, the back side of each plate is moistened with water (0.6 - 0.8 l per 1 m2) with an ordinary brush. Lay the slabs in pairs with the dampened sides together in the room where they will be laid. Align the stack and leave the plates for two days.

Soft slabs of the M brand are used for the subfloor device. They are laid with the back side up: the rough surface provides good adhesion to the mastic when laying the subsequent coating. For the finishing coat, hard and super-hard (T and ST grades) fiberboards with a smooth, varnished and laminated surface are used.

The slabs are laid apart, preventing the four corners of adjacent slabs from joining at one point. Try also to avoid the formation of a narrow strip of fiberboard along the walls. Start laying out the slabs along adjacent walls. They should be well adjacent to each other without gaps and distortions.

The boards can be fastened with 19mm staple nails, fiberboard nails or construction staples. The use of long nails is not recommended. But first, fiberboard should be glued to the base. For this use bituminous mastics, PVA glue or other adhesives, a wide range of which are provided by building materials stores.

Secure the first slab in the corner by nailing at 100mm spacing along the edges of the slab and 150mm between rows across the entire surface of the slab. Attach the next plate butt to the first and nail it. Fasten all the plates, except for the last whole plate of the row - it is installed after cutting the last plate.

Mark the last slab. Then put the adjacent loose one on top of it as a guide and cut the bottom plate with a cutter. Depending on the thickness of the plate, make a few more cuts on top of the first one. Stand on one end of the slab and lift the other sharply, breaking off the slab along the notch line. Nail the penultimate (whole), then the last (cut) slab.

The rest of the cut slab from the previous row can be used to start the next row: this will reduce waste and automatically shift the row. At the doorway, make a preliminary cut of the plate according to the shape of the casing. To transfer to a plate of an exact shape, you can use a pattern or a compass. Cut the slab along the metal ruler with a cutter. Figured cutouts are best done with an electric jigsaw.

The modern market of construction and finishing materials offers a huge range of floor coverings with a wide variety of properties and characteristics. Available for sale as modest budget options, and expensive elite finishing.

One of the most common types of flooring. Materials for household, semi-commercial, as well as commercial purposes are available for sale. Classification is carried out in accordance with the strength indicators of linoleum. Most the best option for the home is semi-commercial, not household linoleum - it is slightly more expensive, but it lasts much longer.

Advantages

1. Unpretentiousness and ease of care.
2. No noise when walking.
3. Rot resistance.
4. Long service life.

disadvantages

1. Foundation requirement. The rough floor must be even - only in this case you can count on a long service life of the coating.
2. Relatively low environmental friendliness. In this regard, linoleum, as an artificial material, noticeably loses to natural varieties of finishes.
3. Low resistance to mechanical stress. The weight of a person and small interior items is supported by linoleum, but under the pressure of heavy furniture and large-sized equipment, the material is pressed through.
4. Weak resistance to temperature extremes. Actual for cheap and low-quality linoleum. Such a finish is quite quickly deformed and covered with cracks.

PVC coatings

They are produced in the form of tiles and panels with an adhesive base and a lock connection. Also on sale are tiles mounted using third-party adhesive mixtures. Modern vinyl floors look more aesthetically pleasing and are characterized by significantly improved performance and performance compared to their old Soviet-made counterparts.

Advantages

1. impact resistance different kind loads.
2. Ease of installation.
3. Moisture resistant.
4. Good soundproof performance.
5. Nice outer texture.
6. Large selection of colors and textures.
7. Long service life.

PVC tiles. Specifications

disadvantages

1. Foundation requirements. The subfloor must be even, otherwise, over time, all defects will appear on the vinyl. Substrate moisture should not exceed 5%.
2. Demanding to the conditions of storage and laying. Vinyl should be allowed time to adapt to environmental conditions before use. In addition, the temperature intervals recommended by the manufacturer must be observed during the finishing process and after its completion.
3. Poor UV resistance. Actual for cheap vinyl. Direct sunlight causes the color to fade and yellow spots appear on the surface of the coating.
4. Unnatural composition. Vinyl is a man-made material. When burned, it releases substances that are toxic to humans. At the same time, a cheap and low-quality coating distinguishes them even in a “resting state”. When buying, be sure to ask the seller to present certificates of quality.

Cork flooring

Natural coating with high heat and noise insulation and performance. At the heart of the finish - bark cork tree. It is produced in the format of rolls and plates. Perfect for finishing floors in rooms that need environmental friendliness, silence and comfort.

Advantages

1. High thermal insulation performance.
2. Good soundproofing.
3. Resistance to deformation influences. There are no traces left on the cork field even from heavy furniture and equipment.
4. High depreciation properties.
5. No slip.
6. Normal tolerance to various chemical influences, with the exception of aggressive alkalis.
7. Resistance to various pests.

disadvantages

1. High price. As a result, taking into account the costs of various additional materials and work itself, the price of a cork floor is comparable to the cost of buying and laying a good parquet.
2. Low tensile strength. Sharp furniture legs, pet claws, heels and other similar things adversely affect the condition of the "cork".
3. Low thermal performance. Using cork in combination with a floor heating system will not work, because. The "cork" simply does not let heat through.
4. Tendency to swell on contact with water. This moment excludes the possibility of arranging a cork floor in bathrooms and other rooms with increased level humidity.

Laminate

A panel made on the basis of fiberboard and supplemented with several layers of thick paper. A texture is applied over the paper (the most popular option is parquet imitation), and protective materials are applied on top of it. The production technology ensures the resistance of the panels to abrasion, sunlight, various kinds of damage, deformation and pollution.

Laminate is relatively easy to install and has a long service life. The only restriction is that the panels cannot be laid in bathrooms and other rooms with a high level of humidity. The installation technology requires preliminary laying of a special substrate.

Advantages

1. Resistance to external influences.
2. Good tolerance to elevated temperatures.
3. Comparative unpretentiousness in leaving.
4. Environmental Safety. The composition of the panels does not contain substances that can harm human health. Bacteria do not accumulate in the material, it does not cause allergies and is perfect for finishing the floor, even in a children's room.
5. Ease of installation.
6. Can be combined with floor heating systems.
7. Long service life.
8. Relatively affordable cost.

disadvantages

1. Weak moisture resistance. The material is not recommended for use even in kitchens. If you decide to finish the kitchen floor with this material, give preference to its adhesive variety.
2. The risk of bubbles and other blisters in case of violation of the installation technology.
3. Creaking when walking when laying on a poorly leveled subfloor.
4. Low quality cheap varieties.

One of the most popular flooring materials. The tile is especially well suited for flooring in rooms with heavy traffic and high humidity. A huge range of tiles is available for sale, differing in size, design, strength and a number of additional characteristics.

In private housing construction, ceramic coatings are most often used in bathrooms, as well as hallways, bathrooms and kitchens. In general, you can choose a tile that fits perfectly into the interior of any room, but in bedrooms, living rooms and other similar rooms, it is better to combine ceramics with floor heating systems, otherwise it will be cold.

Advantages

1. The widest choice of design solutions.
2. Almost limitless scope for the implementation of a wide variety of ideas. With the help of tiles, you can create unique compositions and visually change the proportions of the room.
3. Strength.
4. Ease of care.

disadvantages

1. The complexity of installation.
2. The presence of seams. You won't be able to completely remove them. The width of the seams directly depends on the skill of the stacker.
3. Cold. Walking on such material with bare feet is a pleasure for an amateur. To be comfortable, ceramics must be combined with an underfloor heating system, which leads to additional costs.

This popular type of flooring is characterized by a relatively affordable cost, ease of installation and an almost limitless range of design solutions. Modern carpets are not interested in rodents, insects and other pests, they are easy to care for and durable.

Carpets made from acrylic, wool, polypropylene, nylon, silk and many other materials are available for sale.

Advantages

Among the advantages of modern carpeting, the following characteristics should be noted:

• resistance to various adverse effects, including abrasion;
• a wide selection of colors and design solutions;
• low creasing;
• decent sound insulation in the case of carpets with soft and elastic pile.

disadvantages

If carpets have flaws, namely:

• poor resistance to direct sunlight. This is especially true for cheap models. Carpets lose color and generally presentable appearance;
• poor tolerance to water exposure and use in conditions high humidity air;
• tendency to accumulate dust between the villi. If you prefer carpeted flooring, be prepared to often use a broom and a vacuum cleaner.

The classic version of expensive and high quality flooring. The performance characteristics and appearance of the material directly depend on what kind of wood was used to make it. In houses with wooden floors always warm, comfortable and cozy.

Advantages

1. Excellent appearance.
2. Long service life.
3. Complete environmental safety.
4. Low thermal conductivity.

disadvantages

1. tendency to deform. In summer, wood expands, in winter, on the contrary, it shrinks. In view of this, technological gaps must be left when laying the panels.

Decorative floor 3D. 3D image on your floor

This category includes self-leveling floors loved by many. The coating can be made on a cement-acrylic, epoxy, as well as polyurethane and methyl methacrylate basis. Suitable for use in a wide variety of environments. IN residential buildings and apartments, polyurethane-based 3D floors are most often used. The compositions fit perfectly into the interiors of bathrooms and kitchens. Characterized by aesthetics and exclusivity of appearance, high resistance and long service life.

Advantages

The main advantages of self-leveling floors include the following characteristics:

• resistance to high humidity;
• attractive design;
• long service life;
• good tolerance of chemical influences;
• high adhesive performance;
• resistance to fire, temperature extremes;
• excellent hygiene;
• ease and unpretentiousness in care.

disadvantages

The material has its own weak sides, namely:

• high price;
• comparative difficulty of dismantling. Over time, even the most beautiful 3D floor can get boring for the owner, and considerable efforts will have to be made to remove the coating;
• exactingness to the draft floor;
• the complexity of the arrangement.

The cost of different coatings

For many buyers, choosing the right finish option, the decisive indicator is the cost of the material. Of course, this point also needs to be taken into account, which you are invited to do using the following table.

Table. Average flooring prices

Now you are aware of the key characteristics, advantages, weaknesses and average prices for the most popular types. finish coatings for the floor. This information will help you think carefully and make the best choice.

Video - Types of floor coverings