How to process lining in the sauna inside. How to process the walls in the bath: rules, secrets, tips

Building a bath is a complex process that includes many different tasks. The basis of the bath is a log cabin, which is additionally sheathed inside. Alder, aspen or spruce lining is most often used as cladding, which have high strength and resistance to steam and moisture.

Briefly about lining

Thinking about how to process wood in a bath, you first need to prepare the necessary tools and buy additional materials:

Solvent;
Stirring brush;
roller;
It is recommended to purchase an airbrush, however, varnish can be applied in other ways;
Sponge;
Paint tray;
Protective equipment (respirator, goggles, gloves and overalls).

It is important to remember that the impregnation of the skin is carried out strictly before its installation. It is also necessary to process the crate on which the lining will be attached. After the impregnation has dried, you can sheathe the room.

After completing the installation work, it is necessary to process the wood again. It is important to note that it is important to carry out such treatment approximately once every 2 years, because the coating on the wood takes the “blow” on itself and wears out, keeping the wood in the bath.

How to process lining

Having prepared the necessary tools, it's time to choose how to cover the walls inside the bath.

You can process the inner surface of the bath from the lining with the following materials:

First of all, it is worth mentioning acrylic varnish. They are often covered with lining, but for a bath this is not the best option. Its protective properties are quite good, however, when heated to high temperatures, it begins to emit a pungent odor and toxins, which will negatively affect human health and the comfort of the room. In the store you can find a special varnish for hot rooms that can be used in the steam room (read: "").
You can also use oil for the impregnation of wood in the bath - drying oil. Drying oil is often treated with wood, but it cannot be used in the steam room due to its low resistance to heat. The ideal room for her is a dressing room, because usually there is a low level of humidity and a low temperature.
An excellent antiseptic is also a mixture of varnish and solvent However, this mixture will negatively affect your health, because when heated, the varnish and solvent will release a huge amount of toxins into the air, which, together with the lack of ventilation, can lead to serious consequences.
The answer to the question about how to process the lining in the steam room, there will be a special mixture, of which there are a huge variety in the construction market. Special impregnations for baths and saunas inside do not create unpleasant odors and do not emit toxins, while they perfectly protect the lining from various influences.

Proper processing of lining

Having decided how to cover the lining in the steam room of the bath, you can proceed to the processing itself. To perform high-quality impregnation, which will serve for a long time, we recommend that you read the following instructions:

Processing lining in the steam room begins with the preparation of the wood itself. Clean it of various contaminants with sandpaper or other suitable method. It is also recommended to wash the boards with an aqueous solution of soda (300 g of soda per 10 liters of water);
Next, you need to degrease the surface. Remember that not only the lining itself is impregnated, but also the frame to which it is attached;
Sand the surfaces with a pumice stone to get a smooth finish;
Next, you need to apply an antiseptic that will protect the wood from fungus and mold, so as not to think later how to get rid of the fungus in the bath;
Now you can soak the lining. When choosing an impregnation for a dressing room, pay attention to the humidity of the air in it, as well as the temperature of the steam. If the indicators are approximately equal to those inside the steam room, then the same impregnation must be used.

Having done all the work correctly, you can achieve an excellent result, as in the photo.

To qualitatively paint the lining, you must follow certain rules:

Painting lining is carried out in warm and dry weather.
You can paint with a roller or brush, leading them parallel to the wood fibers so as not to leave streaks on the surface.
Stir the paint thoroughly before application to obtain a uniform color.
Apply the paint in a thin layer - this will achieve the best coloring result. See also: "".

Bath care

Now you know how to process the lining in the steam room, however, such processing will not be able to fully protect your bath, so you will have to monitor the room, following some rules:

Always ventilate the room to minimize the chance of mold or mildew;
The room must be washed frequently with a wet cloth, without using chemical detergents;

If serious contamination appears on the surface of the wood, or it has darkened, then use sandpaper. You can also use special bleaches for wood, but in no case do not use bleach solutions, because when heated, they release a huge amount of toxins, and they can even leave a burn on the skin.

Wood, by right, is considered the most popular material in the construction of a bath. In this case, either round timber or timber is usually used. Such lumber is made, as a rule, from coniferous wood.

With all their undeniable advantages: low cost, ease of processing, durability, heat and frost resistance, when used in construction, they have one significant drawback - at high temperatures, softwood begins to release resin.

Comes in different sizes and shapes

On the one hand, not everyone likes the resinous smell, on the other hand, touching the hot resin with open areas of the body is fraught with serious burns.

That is why it is widely used in construction.

This helps not only improve the aesthetics of the interior, but also has other undoubted advantages:

A layer of lining made of moisture-resistant wood helps protect the outer walls from dampness and decay, and creates additional thermal insulation for the interior.
A board made of wood, which has pleasant and beneficial aromatic properties, helps to enhance the beneficial effects of taking bath procedures.
Using different types of wood and different finishes, you can create unique decorative effects.

Answering the question of how to cover the lining inside the bath in order to ensure its long-term operation, first of all it is necessary to deal with the questions presented below.

What properties should the surface have?

Very beautiful and bright Abashi breed

When you should pay attention to some requirements for the materials used:

Low heat capacity. As a rule, heavy and hard rocks have the ability to accumulate heat, while heating up significantly. Wood with a low density, in this case, is much better suited for indoor use.
moisture resistance. The tree should absorb moisture well, but at the same time give it outward, maintaining a stable balance. The area that accumulates a significant amount of moisture inside eventually becomes wet and slippery, which, you see, is not the best option for a bath.
Chemical and biological resistance.

In the premises, with the active use of it, conditions constantly arise that can be called stressful for a tree:

Heat, periodically replaced by low, and in winter, negative air temperature;
High humidity, a significant concentration of water vapor in the air;
Detergent exposure creating an aggressive chemical environment.

Graph: at what temperatures does the fungus occur

Under these conditions, the risk of wood damage by rotting, mold and various fungal diseases is significantly increased.

Therefore, for long-term and enjoyable use of the bath on your site, you must follow short and simple rules when selecting materials for its decoration.

Video - how to choose a lining in the store:

For lining used in the interior of the bath, the most suitable domestic varieties of wood are:

Linden,
aspen,
alder.

As well as gaining popularity exotic:

canadian cedar,
Abashi,
mahogany.

Properties depending on the breed

As you can see, even under such extreme operating conditions for wood, which exist in the interior, you can choose a material that is suitable for the price and decorative qualities.

And to enhance and maintain the aesthetic properties of wooden coatings for a long time, you can use modern impregnations and paints and varnishes specially designed for baths.

Impregnation and oils for the steam room or how to protect the steam room

With a sprayer, you can quickly cover a wooden wall.

Having finished, it is necessary first of all to decide how to cover the lining in the steam room.

After all, it is here, in extreme conditions of high temperature and humidity, that the tree is most intensively exposed to harmful effects.

When using cheap types of wood, this is expressed in contamination and darkening of the surface, which significantly worsens the appearance, while for expensive types of wood, this is also a problem of increasing durability. Do not change expensive upholstery every 3-5 years.

Color palette - to cover in the desired color

And, despite the widely held belief that there is no need to cover the wood in the steam room with anything, diligent owners have always tried to provide wooden walls with a long and effective service life.

Previously, natural remedies were used for this in the form of coating with wax or various oils: linseed, hemp, etc.

Now traditional wood protection technologies are being replaced by modern materials and means that protect not only from moisture and pollution, but also from rotting, fungal infection, and insect damage.

Of course, the Finns are recognized as the largest experts in this field, who, along with the Russians, are considered the main connoisseurs and connoisseurs of the bath.

As an example, here are the well-known Tikkurila products:

1 2
3

Supi Saunasuoja is a water-based acrylic coating that protects against blue and mildew. It is available both colorless and tinted to obtain various shades. When choosing a color, it is better to do a trial painting of a small area in order to evaluate the resulting shade. It is applied to the surfaces of walls and ceilings with a brush or sprayer in two layers with an interval of 2-3 hours. If necessary, it is soluble in water. Not recommended for shelves and seats. Provides coverage - 8–12 sq.m/l. Price - 310 rubles / l.
Supi Laudesuoja is an oil impregnation for benches and seats that creates a water and dirt protective film. Apply with a brush in one layer. Covers - 8–15 sq.m/l. Price - 1640 rubles / l. During operation, the bath can be reapplied after cleaning contaminated surfaces with a product:
Supi Saunapesu, which disinfects, bleaches, dissolves lime deposits.

1
2

Manor U-409 - protective impregnation for baths and saunas, protecting against pollution, darkening and bio flora. The price of one package of 2.5 kg is 390 rubles.
Eurotex Sauna is a protective oil to cover the wooden shelves in the saunas of the ROGNEDA company. Cost - 480 rubles / l. Average coverage - 12 sq. m/l.

Video - finishing the bath:

Varnishes used for processing

- You need to cover in two layers.

When deciding how to cover the lining in the bath, the main thing to remember is that ordinary varnishes and paints are categorically not suitable here.

For these purposes, there are special water-based heat-resistant and waterproof acrylic varnishes that create a decorative polymer coating that effectively protects wood from all harmful influences.

You can cite as an example the product of the same domestic company "ROGNEDA"

Evrotex Sauna- a colorless acrylic semi-gloss varnish with wax and an antiseptic, which creates an effective protection of wood when exposed to high temperatures up to 150 C. It is applied in two layers with a brush or sprayer with an interval of 30 minutes. Average coverage - 12 sq.m/l. The cost of packaging 2.5 kg - 490 rubles.

How to cover the board in the washing and dressing room

In the sink, wooden surfaces are exposed not only to the influence of water vapor, but also to the direct action of hot water. Therefore, protecting them with antiseptics plays a primary role here. For coverage, you can offer a domestic product:

So that there are no fungi, you need to cover with this mixture.

SENEG SAUNA- an antiseptic used to protect wooden surfaces in baths and saunas from fungi and woodworms in conditions of high humidity and temperature.

It also provides hygienic antimicrobial and infectious protection.

It is applied in 2-3 layers with a brush, roller or sprayer with an interval of 60 minutes. Covers an average of 10–12 sq. m/l. The price of a package of 2.5 kg is 730 rubles.

To cover the internal surfaces of the bath rooms that are not in contact with the human body: walls, ceilings, doors, you can use:

- heat and moisture protective water-based semi-gloss lacquer used at temperatures up to 120 C.

Does not fade and has no smell. In addition to wood, it can also be used on mineral surfaces such as stone, brick, concrete.

It is applied with a brush, roller or sprayer in two layers with an interval of 2 hours. Coating - up to 18 sq.m / l. Cost - 330 r / l.

The work of applying protective and decorative coatings to the internal surfaces of the bath is quite within the power of a home master who knows how to hold painting tools in his hands.

Given the above approximate prices for paints and varnishes, you can decide how to cover the lining inside the bath and what tool is suitable in each case, after that it will not be difficult to make an approximate calculation of the cost of such work. Good luck with your construction and have a light steam!

Wood is the best material for building a bath, its interior decoration and the manufacture of necessary furniture in it. Due to low thermal conductivity, environmental friendliness and attractive appearance. But, inherent in the inside of the steam room, heat and high humidity affect the wood very detrimentally.

Therefore, it is worth thinking about how to process the bath inside to extend its service life.

Photo of the steam room after processing the inner lining

General provisions

Many believe that the correct installation of all elements of the building, the arrangement of competent ventilation and the use of only high-quality tree species can prevent adverse effects on the walls of the steam room. And this is better than treating the walls in the bathhouse with some kind of antiseptic, since there will be no danger of the enzymes of the solution evaporating into the air at high temperatures.

Do-it-yourself ventilation arrangement

Quite right. Good air movement can overcome dampness in the bath and prevent mold and fungus from developing from the inside. But this is not the only problem.

The effect of "warping" of the boards due to the constant exposure to high temperatures. The most vulnerable finish is on the ceiling and near the stove.
Darkening and contamination of the wood surface with frequent use, making the interior look like the insides of a "black" bath. This is especially true for shelves.

Type of "black" bath

Pest attack. This is also the case for walls made of timber from the outside.
Stagnation of dampness in the absence of ventilation or an error in its design.

Thus, we can conclude that processing is still needed in most cases. She will definitely be able to extend the life of not only the inner lining of the bath, but also the wooden walls outside the building.

Moreover, the current solutions:

Environmentally friendly even at very high temperatures.
Heat resistant.
Excellent protection against dirt.
Drive away possible pests.
Increase the strength of the material.

Types and scope of solutions

Do not treat all surfaces of the building with the same solution. It should be based on the proximity of the product covered with a protective composition to the person during the bath. So, for example, when choosing how to process the lower crowns of the bath, it makes no sense to overpay for an expensive and harmless composition, because they do not come into contact with people.

Composition for the lower elements of the bath

Treatment of the base of the sauna

For sufficient protection of this element of the building, any antiseptics that are commercially available on the shelves of hardware stores are suitable. Their main task is to protect against mold and pests.

If their price and the uncertainty of quality make you doubt, then you can use the following recipe and prepare the solution yourself:

We heat the bitumen in a bucket to a boil.

Bitumen should be heated to a full boil

Remove the bucket and set aside away from the fire.
Mixing thoroughly, pour diesel fuel until a black mass of a liquid state is obtained in a cold form.
It turns out an inexpensive and remarkable antiseptic in its qualities, which is the best answer to the question of how to process the lower crown of the bath.

Tip: It is recommended that before each application of this solution, heat it to a boil.
This allows it to penetrate 6-8 mm into the wood surface, which significantly increases protection against rot and insect attack.

Such a home-made solution is also perfect as a way to process logs in a bath. Because the underground is also not a bathing element in contact with people, but it is often located in increased dampness.

Wall processing

Coating with an antiseptic

In the case of the interior decoration of the walls, it must be remembered that while visiting the steam room you will have to breathe with what you have treated them with.

Tip: if you doubt the safety of using an unfamiliar composition, then the instructions in the application will always help you.
Having carefully studied it, you will receive data on the possibility of using such a solution in a bath or sauna.

The most common and trustworthy are:

Resistant to air, dirt and water.
Eliminates common household pathogens that cause infectious diseases in the human body.
Improves the aesthetic appearance of the wood surface.

A sample of a water-based antiseptic

Natura. Creates a translucent water-repellent finish for wood. There is the possibility of tinting with a wide range of shades.

Tip: in order not to confuse the treated surface with the untreated one, it is recommended to use a tinted composition.

Now you know how to treat the walls in the bath without fear of subsequent poisoning.

Shelf processing

Protective coated shelves

The peculiarity of the shelves and benches for the bath is that they are touched by human skin. Therefore, when a polymer layer appears on them, there is a risk of getting burned. This leads to the need to use solutions that are well absorbed into the wood pores.

These include oils such as:

Sauna Natura,
Supi Laudesuoja,
Eurotex "Sauna".

Tip: if a liquid coating remains when applying an oil antiseptic, be sure to rub it with a prepared rag to avoid a scalding formation.

Although many defend the opinion that the bath should have a natural naturalness without the use of protective compounds, practicality proves the opposite. Even with a perfect ventilation system, it is impossible to get rid of pests, dirt and heat.

The main thing is to choose the right antiseptic for each area of your bath or sauna. For the area inside the steam room, there are absolutely safe water-based solutions.

Steam room treated with protective and safe antiseptics

How to process a bath inside to protect against an aggressive environment
How to process a bath: do-it-yourself video installation instructions, features of processing lower rims, walls, lag, price, photo

"Losing the goal - redouble your efforts"

I am glad to meet you again, dear readers! First of all, I want to congratulate everyone on Christmas and wish you the fulfillment of all good wishes.

Today I decided to discuss a subtle, but for many, a very sensitive topic. There are many opinions about whether it is necessary to process the lining of the interior of the bath. For some, the argument of darkening and decay of wood is in favor of processing with special means.

Others are convinced that humidity and temperature provoke evaporation from boards covered with "chemistry", and this cannot be called harmless to health. Others accept compromise – do not process the steam room, but the rest of the premises, yes. So, – how to process lining in the bath? Let's try to figure it out...

From this article you will learn:

Protective impregnations for lining

First, what are they for?

First of all : for durability, Secondly : for a pleasing aesthetic look.

By durability, we mean long-term resistance to various physical (excessive humidity and extreme temperature changes) and biological (fungus, mold, wood-eating insects, etc.) influences. By a pleasant appearance, we mean the absence of dark spots and the uniformity of the color shade of the lining. And one more thing - the absence of an unpleasant smell.

Fundamentally: for processing the lining in the bath, it is categorically impossible to use ordinary paints and varnishes. This is a judgment on your health. You can use only special heat-resistant and water-repellent impregnations designed for baths and saunas.

"Advice. When buying a lining, you need not only to familiarize yourself with the certificate (after all, it can be sawn from trees growing in an ecologically “dirty” zone), but also to find out WHAT it was processed during the manufacturing process. Just in case, let me remind you that aspen, linden and alder are considered the best breeds for a bath.

Import funds

Here, the traditional and undisputed leader is the Finnish company Tikkurila ( Tikkurila). This manufacturer really has a wide range of products and the best quality. Are there any cons? Of course there is - this is the price.

For example, Supi Saunasuoja- acrylic impregnation for the steam room, water-based. Holds t up to 120°C. Appointment - antiseptic protection against darkening and mold. There are options for colorless - preserving the natural color of the tree, and tinted (allowing you to give shades). When choosing a color, it is recommended to make a trial coating.

Apply with a wide flat brush or sprayer in two layers. Second layer after 2-3 hours What is covered- walls. For bath shelves and ceilings - not recommended. For this, there are other impregnations of the same manufacturer.

Supi Laudesuoja- impregnation on the basis of oil. The substance is odorless and practically colorless, although after application, it “highlights” the natural texture of the wood. Purpose - water-repellent and dirt-repellent paraffin impregnation of deep penetration. Creates a protective film layer on the surface. Easy to wash. It is applied in one layer, on the cleaned surfaces. What is covered- bath shelves.

“The question may arise - why create a protective film layer on the surface of the shelves? I will answer. The fact is that our sweat falls on them (shelves), containing not all, but some part of the periodic table. Soaking into the bench, it adversely affects the structure of the tree. Therefore, it is recommended to protect the surface. That's it in a nutshell."

To clean the wooden surfaces of the bath, including before applying the impregnation, use an acid detergent Supi Saunapesu.

Purpose - disinfection and dissolution of lime deposits. In addition, it whitens the surface. The substance is odorless. What cleans- bath shelves, walls and floor.

All three of these preparations are specially designed for use in bath rooms and allow you to perform the process of not only impregnation, but also care. And all of them belong to the class - M1 (the highest level of environmental safety). Of course, there are many other foreign manufacturers, but in order not to take your attention for a long time, I chose the most "rated" one, according to reviews and purchases.

Domestic impregnations

Our manufacturers are also represented quite widely, and among them, there are several prominent leaders who have become such thanks to their good reputation and the “price-quality” balance. For example, an antiseptic for wood - Senezh sauna. In general, Senezh has a diverse line of wood protection impregnations.

What is covered- wooden surfaces that are not in contact with a person (walls, ceiling, doors - just places sheathed with clapboard).

A few words about the use of drying oil. Yes, it is inexpensive in price and after processing, the lining looks nice, but drying oil, "this is not about a bath." I will say briefly:

Firstly, it practically does not protect the tree from steam.

Secondly, at high temperatures it releases an unpleasant odor and harmful toxins.

So, think a hundred times: use "this oil" in the bath or not.

Acrylic sauna lacquer is also a good buy, Evrotex Sauna. Colorless substance applicable in rooms with t up to 150°C.

"Eurotex Sauna" is an antiseptic that provides a water and dirt-repellent coating in order to protect against biological effects, as well as antimicrobial prophylaxis. Contains natural wax, which creates a protective film on the surface of the lining, which can be washed with acidic and neutral products without the risk of damage.

Suitable for both new and old (pre-cleaned) boards. Apply with a regular brush or sprayer in 2-3 layers. What is covered- all wooden surfaces, except for bath shelves.

A few words about bleaches for lining. It is used for surfaces of boards that have darkened as a result of fungal stains and biological lesions. Also effective for "rejuvenation" of old wood. From domestic funds can be recommended Senezh Neo, made on the basis of an oxidizing agent. It is applicable to wood that has not previously been treated with paints and varnishes. The product is odorless and does not affect the natural color of the wood.

In conclusion, I note that you can use different means to work with lining inside the bath. But I repeat, one condition - they must be created specifically for the bath. There are all sorts of options for processing tools from the do-it-yourself cycle. If you are sure that it will be useful and safe - go ahead! But know that making the “right” chemical reagent is more difficult than making homemade sausage.

Bath joke . In ancient China, baths were not divided into women's and men's, but when the population exceeded a billion, everyone realized that this was a mistake.

I hope for the usefulness of the presented material. Finally, as usual: subscribe to the news and introduce your friends to the blog. Good luck and good luck with your choice!

Wisdom Quote: The irascible will never know the truth.

We process lining in the bath: only the best and safest impregnations
We choose a specialized impregnation for lining in the bath. Nuances to pay attention to.

How to process a bath inside

A wooden bathhouse made of logs or timber is a great place for a country house. Wood is distinguished by high thermal insulation properties, environmental friendliness and naturalness, safety. It does not heat up and does not burn the skin even at the strongest temperatures.

At the same time, the tree looks aesthetically pleasing and harmonious, fits into the environment. That is why wooden materials are chosen for the construction of a bath or sauna. However, natural raw materials are subject to the negative effects of moisture and insects. In addition, wood burns very quickly.

To protect wooden materials and extend the operational life of the building, the bath is processed. Today, there are many options and means that prevent the spread of fire on the surface in the event of a fire, rotting and destruction of wood, mold, fading and loss of physical properties. Let's look at how and how to process the bath from the inside.

How to choose the right tool

Natural wax, hemp and linseed oil are traditional processing materials that have not lost their relevance even now. These are safe and effective remedies. Today, manufacturers offer a lot of modern products that cover the walls in the bath and houses made of logs or timber. Experts advise choosing Finnish and Russian brands.

Choose products in such a way as to preserve the environmental friendliness of the building and emphasize the aesthetic interior of a log or timber bath. For a bath, especially for a steam room, you cannot use standard varnish or paint for wood, as they do not tolerate high temperatures. When heated, such products will emit an unpleasant odor and harmful toxic substances. In addition, with this treatment, the tree will not “breathe”, but will only absorb moisture and deteriorate.

Water and wax-based varnishes, as well as acrylic varnishes, are considered safe means for bath treatment. It can be colorless and colored products, with a matte or glossy sheen. For a steam room, it is better to choose a colorless varnish, and for a shower or rest room, you can take a product with a sheen or shade.

The vapor permeability of the varnish must be at least 50%. This indicator reflects the ability of water vapor to pass through the surface of the varnish film. Along with the steam, the smell of wood also passes. At the same time, the coating protects against moisture, which is not absorbed into the wood, but rolls down the wall onto the floor. As a result, the sauna atmosphere does not suffer, and the wood does not collect dirt and does not darken.

For the steam room, choose specialized odorless products. They consist of resistant components that do not break down under the influence of high temperatures. Classic antiseptics and varnishes are not retained in wood fibers, soften and become sticky at temperatures above 100 degrees Celsius. In addition, this process is accompanied by the release of harmful compounds and unpleasant odors into the air. Compositions for steam rooms are designed with these factors in mind, they are safe and environmentally friendly.

How to cover the walls and floor in the bath

Wooden walls in the steam room and washing room are covered with acrylic varnish or oil. The steam room is painted in one layer, the washing or shower room is covered with two or three layers. Suitable agents in this case are impregnations such as "Supi Saunasuoja" (Tikkurila) and "Pinotex Lacker Sauna" (Akzo Nobel).

Walls in dry rooms, for example, in a rest room, are recommended to be varnished or treated with impregnation for the interior. These waterborne coatings are odorless. In the MariSrub catalog you will find a wide selection of bath projects, including those with rest rooms, with a second or attic floor, as well as compact one-story buildings.

The floor inside the bath is least exposed to high temperatures, as hot air rises. However, the tree is most affected by water, as it flows down. The emphasis in this case is on protection against decay in a humid environment.

The floor logs are impregnated with a primer containing a powerful antiseptic, or varnished, which completely excludes the penetration of water into the tree. For this, a mold remedy, antiseptic "Pinotex Impra" (Akzo Nobel) is suitable. It gives the effect of preserving wood. The green color of this impregnation will not be visible under the finished floor, but the coating will provide long-term protection. To preserve naturalness, floor boards should be treated with shelf oil without the use of a primer.

In the rest room, locker room and other dry rooms, the floor is covered with parquet varnish. In the steam room and sink, the varnish is diluted in a 1: 1 ratio with a suitable thinner and the floor boards are impregnated. Apply two layers. After that, the bath is heated to a high temperature and the rapid polymerization of the coating is achieved. After airing and reheating, the bath is ready for use for its intended purpose.

How to cover other elements

It is very important to process benches, shelves and other pieces of furniture in the bath. This will increase the service life of products and prevent burns on the human body as a result of contact with hot surfaces. Water should not be absorbed into the wood, and at the same time, a varnish film is not needed on the surface of objects, which, when heated, leads to burning of the skin. Such a coating is given by special oils for shelves in saunas, including Supi Laudesuoja (Tikkurila) or Sauna Oil (Eskaro).

Don't forget windows and doors. The effects on these elements of the interior differ in each separate place of the bath:

Window and front door. Outside temperature up to -30. Internal temperature +20,
The door from the rest room to the steam room. The temperature in the room is +20, and in the steam room up to +12,
The door from the locker room to the sink. In the locker room, the usual humidity, and in the sink, water can flow along the door.

A suitable coating that can withstand such temperature and humidity fluctuations for a long time can only be industrial. Polyurethane three-component (lacquer, hardener, thinner) system "D-Dur" (Akzo Nobel) is successfully used to protect windows and doors operating in aggressive conditions.

Strict environmentalists will appreciate the technology with certificates that allow the use of varnish not only in baths, but also for more rigorous structures (children's furniture and toys, children's wooden utensils used for boiling water, etc.). Pinotex Base antiseptic from the same manufacturer is used as a penetrating primer.

How to properly apply impregnation

Before applying any agent, the surface is thoroughly cleaned and, if necessary, polished. High-quality finishing of walls and ceilings with wooden clapboard, and floors with boards will increase the service life of the bath. In addition, it will give the room a neat finished appearance. However, the lining, the floor board, and other finishing materials still need to be covered with protective agents. How to carry out the interior decoration of a bath or sauna, read here.

Lacquer, oil or other agent is applied in several layers using a roller. Difficult areas in the corners and between the crowns are treated with a brush. Each new layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried! When using oil, excess product is removed before drying. Such processing should be carried out every 4-10 years, depending on the type of materials and the quality of the work. To get a long-term and reliable result, contact the professionals!

The masters of "MariSrub" will select high-quality and reliable impregnations, quickly and reliably process the bath. We provide a full range of services. It includes the design and construction of a bathhouse or a house with a foundation and a roof, the manufacture of lumber for the project, the installation and connection of engineering networks, and complex finishing. We offer warming and waterproofing of the bath, protective treatment of materials in several stages! We guarantee high quality of work and strict adherence to deadlines.

How to process a bath inside
Bath processing: criteria for choosing products for walls and floors, windows and doors, rules for applying impregnation.

No one doubts that the best finishing material for a bath is wood. And almost everyone uses lining for interior decoration. But here it is necessary or not to process the lining in the bath, everyone decides for himself. Opinions are divided here: some say that without treatment with special means, the wood darkens, loses its attractiveness, rots and is affected by diseases. All this is so. But their opponents are definitely right: the combination of high temperature and humidity in the steam room, to which fumes from processed boards are added, cannot be called a healing effect. But people come to the bathhouse for their health.

Lining looks great in a bath or sauna

For the most part, lovers of baths and saunas make a compromise: they leave the lining in the steam room without processing, and for the rest room, the washing room uses special tools. Lining without processing, of course, becomes unusable over time, but it will have to be changed no more than once every 2-5 years (depending on the type of wood and the intensity of use of the steam room). These are not such big costs, especially since rarely anyone has a steam room that is large. For those who decide to process wood in the steam room, there are several folk recipes or special (mandatory !!) compositions for a bath / sauna.

How to process the lining in the washing and dressing room

The most popular ready-made products are special impregnations and oils. Finns are the favorites in this segment: Sauna (by Belinka), Supi Saunasoja (by Tikkurila).

Composition for wood treatment in saunas and baths

Domestic producers also try to lag far behind world manufacturers.

The product of the domestic company "Usadba" - "U-409" - impregnation for baths, saunas, wet and residential premises. All these compositions are made on the basis of natural ingredients. They create a thin film on the surface, which makes the removal of contaminants easier.

Also, the impregnation contains fungicidal and insecticidal additives that prevent the formation and reproduction of fungus in the bath.

"Eurotex Sauna" - antiseptic with wax for saunas and baths. This is a colorless coating that creates a protective film on the surface of the wood. The composition is ideal for benches and shelves (for those who decide to process them).

Impregnation EURO TEX-sauna can be bought in packaging of various capacities. A bucket with a capacity of 2.5 liters (per 35 square meters) costs about 450 rubles.

Given the cost of lining and other wood products, the cost of impregnation does not seem very high. In addition, it should be noted that after processing, the wood looks much more attractive, it is easier to clean and does not darken for a long time. However, there are also disadvantages: for 3-5 visits to the bath there is a not very strong, but rather obvious specific smell.

In the rest room, you can use the composition "UnicaSuper" from the same Tikkurila. But this composition changes the color of the wood, so for lovers of "natural", Supi Saunasoja is again suitable.

Impregnation and oils for the steam room

Most fans of the bath agree that there is no need to cover the lining inside the steam room. But if there is such a need, then you can use natural oils and wax. Some connoisseurs advise soaking the boards with linseed oil, to which you can add natural aromatic oils of your choice. You can use hemp oil, and, the cheapest option, sunflower oil, but refined, with a minimal smell.

For finishing the steam room, it is better to use natural materials.

Such treatment will create a greasy film on the surface of the wood and will not allow dirt to penetrate deep into the wood. But you need to be prepared for the fact that for some time, parts of the body from contact with the processed shelf will be greasy. After a while, the oil will be absorbed (or wiped off), but the protective film will remain.

Similarly, you can treat the steam room with melted natural wax. Before applying the wax, the surface must be carefully sanded and only then the melted wax should be applied.

There is a fairly large selection of impregnations for industrial shelves. For example, in the same Russian firm Manor there is oil for shelves, there is a similar composition of Eurotex-sauna. Of course, Tikkurila also has them - this is Supi Laudesuoja oil.

Important! What definitely cannot be done is to use ordinary varnishes or paints for a bath or sauna. The tree must "breathe", first absorbing excess moisture, and then giving it away. When using conventional compositions, wood is completely deprived of this property, in addition, evaporation of the chemicals included in the composition is added, which are very dangerous to health at high temperatures and humidity. It's like covering a steam room with linoleum or siding: the materials are good, but not for these purposes.

If you use the steam room correctly, ventilate and dry it in time, then fungi and bark beetles will not start in it. They die at high and low temperatures:

At a temperature of 70-80 ° C, spores of all fungi and protozoa die within 10 minutes.
At -15 ° C, young larvae of the shashel perish, and if the temperature is below -15 ° C for a week, then adult larvae also die.
A temperature of +60 ° C is the upper limit at which bark beetles survive.

At high and low temperatures, fungi and pests die

If you then heat the bath to high temperatures, then freeze it, then no misfortunes are terrible for it, and you can deal with the remaining problems quite simply: clean or cover the most used surfaces with natural compounds more often.

How to cover the lining inside the bath
To prevent rotting of wood inside the bath, you can use various impregnations intended for both steam and washing.

Lining - one of the most popular materials for interior decoration baths. It is used to a lesser extent for facade cladding, but still . At the same time, it is thin profiled, most often made of wood, which would not interfere with protection.

That's about whether it's worth it, where, how and with what to process the lining in the bath, we will consider in this article. For those who are just going to mount this material in their bath, we advise you to familiarize yourself with.

Does it need to be processed

The question is far from being idle, because there are many bath lovers who will say that processing the lining of the bath inside is completely unnecessary, because there is no such coating that would not affect human health in a negative way.

For our part, let's say that, of course, this was the case for a long time, while the paint and varnish industry used exclusively solvents. based on organic compounds- really very poisonous and inconvenient both during staining and for some time after, until all the volatile has evaporated.

But today is at your disposal. They are recognized harmless they can paint the rooms in which there are children. The composition of the acrylic coating contains resins that dissolve with water only up to a certain point, namely, before polymerization. If the water has evaporated and the mixture has polymerized, then it is further resistant to moisture.

In addition to this, there are more natural impregnations, designed only to make the surface of the wood water-repellent. They are made from linseed oil, in some cases no less natural beeswax is added, or there are impregnations based on paraffin oil (paraffin is an oil refining product, but harmless, candles are made from it).

IMPORTANT! Drying oil is also made on the basis of linseed oil, but contains salts of heavy metals and other additives needed to speed up drying, so we categorically do not recommend using it in a bath. And not only in the steam room, but everywhere - her smell is strong and unpleasant.

In general, today there are enough harmless(!) Options for how to process and how to cover the lining in the bath. Therefore, we firmly declare that this must be done! There is only one reason: all coatings serve a single purpose - they extend the life of wooden building materials.

ATTENTION! This is especially true for those that are outside and are exposed to constant negative effects of precipitation, high and low temperatures, as well as ultraviolet radiation.

And if you agree with us, then we can move on to considering what is suitable for processing the lining in the bath, as well as how to soak and how to paint the lining. Do not take this as a tautology, because we are talking about completely different compositions for different purposes.

The better

Let us clarify that processing in our understanding is preventive measure to prevent the future appearance of rot, mold, blue stain, infection with carpenter beetles and similar misfortunes. Either medical, if infection has occurred. There are also compounds to reduce the combustibility of wood.

In the first two cases, it is antiseptics Substances that kill fungi (fungicides) and insects (insecticides). In the third case, about flame retardants, which slow down the fire or make the wood non-combustible.

What to process in the steam room

Since we are talking about this, there are a couple of tools that can be used in the steam room too. However, their effectiveness is very limited.

For example, if you process the lining in the steam room of the bath bleach"Whiteness" or its analogues, you can quickly get rid of blue- this is the name of a fungal infection of a tree, with which wood is often sold, since it does not affect strength, it only spoils the appearance.

Fungal infection - blue

BY THE WAY! Why "Whiteness"? Because there are a number of different antiseptics for wood, which contain nothing but sodium hypochlorite, as in Whiteness. Well, maybe the concentration is different and the price.

After using and achieving the result, “Whiteness” is washed off and ventilated (! more about ventilation in the bath in). You can use the bath when the smell is no longer felt.

As a close analogue of bleach can be used hydrogen peroxide- also a strong oxidizing agent that does not allow mushrooms to live.

Mold can be used boric acid or borax, but now boron compounds are considered poisonous, and from among the cumulative poisons, that is, they accumulate and are not excreted from the body. The only good news is that the poison is weak, it takes a lot to poison it.

But it’s not worth living with mold, they die faster from it than from boric. If it started up, then it’s not up to it whether it’s a steam room or not, it’s necessary to start a fight. Until you get rid of it, you can’t use the bathhouse.

However, this applies to all infections - the more serious they are, the more serious the means. It is better to process the lining in the bath professional antiseptic who is struggling with your problem, and then wash everything than change the entire lining. But it is better to change the entire lining than to risk your life because of black mold. With carpenter beetles, the same strategy - as long as it makes sense to fight - we fight, if there are too many of them - we burn the affected tree.

Processing inside other bath rooms

In this case, there is only one difference from the steam room: prophylactic agents can be used in other rooms. That is, do not wait for the problem, but prevent its occurrence, poisoning the life of pests in advance.

Since there is no steam room heat in other rooms, all these poisons will not volatilize and be inhaled by humans.

Therefore, you can safely use both, and flame retardants, which you like. AT washing you will want to use non-washable compounds, but look at the label: if it says that it is for the exterior, and not the interior, then it’s better not to. Better to update from time to time.

IMPORTANT! Antiseptics can be found on sale not only in the form of separate formulations, but also in the form of primers, which precede the application of varnish, azure or paint. If you are going to paint with something, choose the right primer and you will not need a separate application of an antiseptic.

What to cover: types of coatings

As antiseptics we singled them out in a separate class (we do not consider them “coatings”, reserving this name for paint and varnish products), then we will talk about everything else.

At our disposal:

impregnation for wood from oil, oil wax or wax;
water-based varnishes;
varnishes based on organic solvents;
water-based paints;
paints based on organic solvents;
water-based glazes;
glazes based on organic solvents.

As you can see, today you can purchase any coating for lining in a water-based bath, which is good for interior work.

Impregnation

Silicone, for lining Elcon

An affordable way to give the tree water and dirt-repellent properties. Can buy ready composition in the store - many of the companies specializing in paint and varnish products, especially if they have lines for baths and saunas, will offer you liquid and solid oils, oil waxes and waxes, which are suitable for impregnation of lining in the bath.

Those who have access to pure linseed oil, wax and other ingredients can on one's own make an impregnation that is in no way inferior to the factory one.

Yes, it should also be noted that for some reason that is not entirely clear, some people also classify bath varnishes as impregnations. We consider this to be incorrect, varnishes are a separate category.

What to soak in the steam room

Oils, oil waxes and waxes of own or industrial production suitable for impregnating the steam room- if we are talking about purchased funds, then it will be said there whether it is suitable for walls, for, floors, or only for - one of the categories.

There is some difference between the factory impregnations, but if you make your own impregnation based on linseed oil, it can be used for shelves and walls. The author of the video above covered the outside of the bath with such a mixture too.

IMPORTANT! Distinguish oil-based impregnations from water-based acrylic varnishes - these are different things, even if the seller in the store says that this is a branded impregnation from some well-known company.

Oil can be not only linen or rapeseed, or some other natural, extracted from plants, but also paraffin- We have already talked about this.

Painting: varnishes, paints, azures

Example: NEOMID Sauna - acrylic based wood protection lacquer

All types of paint and varnish products can be divided into those that are suitable for indoor and outdoor use. The division is essential, because inside we have more stable microclimate, less harmful effects from the environment, but an important requirement is harmlessness to humans.

How to paint inside

The ideal option for all rooms (and not just for the steam room and washing room) would be water-based varnishes and paints. They have a lot of advantages - they smell very weakly, their smell does not lead to nausea and dizziness, reddening of the skin and other signs of body poisoning, which always occurs when working with compounds based on organic solvents.

At the same time, there are varnishes and paints that are specially designed to cover walls with ceilings or floors in a steam room. Watch a video with a test of such varnishes from Tikkurila, Dulux and another Russian manufacturer "Bath things":

What is the difference between varnishes and water-based paints? Both are acrylates, which dissolve in water, however varnishes are always more transparent and allow you to see the texture of the wood, and paints are more opaque, opaque, under a thin layer, unless we see the texture or feel the texture relief.

However, water-soluble paints and varnishes are not all that can be used in the interior of the bath. Painting lining in the bath can also be done with dyes based on organic solvents, if they are intended for interior decoration. The exception is, but you already know about it.

You will find more detailed information about varnishes and paints suitable for the interior in this.

How to paint outside

As already mentioned, at your disposal is the whole range of paint and varnish products marked on the label "for facades", "for outdoor use".

You need to focus on this: some formulations already contain antiseptic, others contain it not in the varnish or paint itself, but in primer, which should be treated surfaces prior to painting. Moreover, primers are produced for certain compositions, but it is also possible to combine primers from different companies.

IMPORTANT! For outdoor painting, an antiseptic is highly desirable, and a non-washable one is better. Flame retardants - optional.

Further, in addition to the antiseptic, the composition should contain UV filter, which will protect from the sun, as well as substances responsible for coating elasticity, that is, the ability to contract and expand with the wood without tearing or cracking. Of course, they are not in all varnishes and paints, but their presence is preferable.

ADVICE! Since we are talking about a bath, it would be nice to pay attention to the vapor permeability of the paintwork - the better it will release water pores through itself, the better for us. And it’s very good if atmospheric precipitation does not moisten the wood.

In general, you can paint the lining in the bath outside with everything you like and can afford - from home-made to latex paints.

exterior dyes are discussed more fully here in this one.

Review of all paint and varnish products suitable for use in the bath and sauna, we made in this.

Dye for walls only(internal and external) is considered.

How to update lining

Over time, the appearance of the raw lining ceases to please the owners. Wood tends to get dark from moisture, but there is still soot, which is firmly embedded in the wood. For those who are no longer satisfied with this state of affairs, and he decided to update the lining in the bath, we have found tips that will help to cope with any problem.

How and what to clean from soot

When carbon is not completely burned in a furnace (completely it is CO2 or CO), it is released as an amorphous substance, which we call "soot". The soot that settled on the walls is soot.

Clean the lining in the bath from soot more difficult, than it seems at first sight. She firmly eats into the wood. And when you try to wash it with soap and a brush, cleansing does not occur.

There are two proven methods for removing soot - mechanical and chemical.

With mechanical everything is clear - the contaminated surface must be scrape off in any way possible. Either manually or with a power tool - the same Bulgarians with abrasive wheel. As a result, the top layer of wood is removed, a clean surface is exposed, the result is what you need.

Chemical the method does not require physical effort and takes much less time. On sale, you can find products that have been designed just to eliminate soot or soot from a fire.

As an example, let's name SYNTILOR Fuoco, DOCKER MAZBIT PLUS, "Facade Cleaner No. 2" from the company "Chistulya" and the like.

The video clearly shows how the first of these tools works:

But here's what's interesting: all compounds that remove soot and soot contain as the main active ingredient ... alkali. No one says the composition, but strong alkalis have been counted once, twice, and their qualities are approximately the same. We mean sodium and potassium hydroxides - KOH and NaOH.

Nothing prevents you from buying them cheaply in a store, diluting them with water and washing off the soot from the wood.

VERY IMPORTANT! If you do not want chemical burns, do not even try to work with alkali without clothing covering your arms and legs, gloves and goggles. Chemical burns are worse than thermal burns, or rather deeper. And keep an acid solution nearby - vinegar, dilute citric acid - to immediately fill the place where the alkali has got. Washing off with water is useless!

After the soot disappears, be sure to wash off the remaining alkali from the wall. We recommend doing this first with an acid solution(vinegar, lemon) so that the residues are neutralized, and then with clean water.

There is another way, but we like it even less than the dangerous lye. This is about mixtures of gasoline and washing powder with water. You already have a fire-prone building with a stove, it seems superfluous to impregnate it with gasoline.

But if you need to wash, say, fireplace brick, and there is no alkali at hand, you can mix two tablespoons of washing powder, 100 ml of water, 100 ml of gasoline, then actively shake the mixture in a bottle and start scrubbing.

In general, it is clear that soot and soot are removed degreasers. Yes, by the way, burnt baking sheets are washed in the same way as lining - with alkalis.

How to wash the lining

We have already recommended a way to get rid of blue and brighten darkened tree with bleach"Whiteness" (by the way, this is just a solution of sodium hypochlorite, bleach - you can make it yourself from the powder).

BY THE WAY! If someone starts complaining that chlorine vapors will be inhaled for a long time, do not believe it. Because the smell (and hence the volatile substances) disappears quickly, and there are no more reasons for concern than when working with "Whiteness" at home. But it’s better not to pour on your hands, of course.

You can do without bleach at all if you walk along a darkened lining grinder.

If the task is to get rid of sweat, fat and the like, then it will be enough to wash the lining in the bath strong solution of laundry soap. Moreover, what is interesting: laundry soap contains alkali residues from the saponification of vegetable fat (this is how it is obtained), so it is not neutral, but slightly alkaline. So it turns out that you are again using alkali, only weak.

Washing with soap will seem long to someone - then just increase the alkaline component. Observing the safety precautions described above, of course! Maybe you have a "MOLE" - breed it.

Here is such a chemical and not only educational program. Like, share links with friends and subscribe to our channel in Telegram.

Where can I buy

Antiseptics and impregnation for lining are present in the assortment of many companies. Some suppliers are presented in sections "" and ""

In contact with

The traditional material for building a bath is wood. And this is no coincidence, the benefits of bathing procedures are most fully manifested in a log steam room, which creates a special microclimate filled with the healing aromas of natural wood. But on the other hand, the high humidity and extreme temperatures typical for a steam room do not have the best effect on wood, which quickly deteriorates under such conditions. To prevent destructive processes will allow the treatment of the bath with oil. In this regard, in the article we will focus on two main points: which oils and impregnations are better to use in a steam room, as well as how to properly treat the internal surfaces of the bath with oil compositions.

As noted above, a bath is a room with special conditions in which high temperatures and humidity are constantly present. Wood is highly hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture very strongly.

In the steam room, the tree becomes an ideal environment for the development of pathogenic processes. Microorganisms appear in it, insects settle, mold and fungus form. As a result, the tree can completely turn black and turn into dust.

The process that has begun is very difficult to stop, especially when it comes to a fully functioning steam room. To prevent the occurrence of such manifestations, it is necessary to protect in advance at the stage of construction and finishing all the internal parts of the log house of the bath, treating them with special compounds.

There are many funds for and baths. This review is dedicated specifically to oils, so we will consider only oil formulations.

What oils are suitable for baths

Oil is a traditional bath treatment. In the old days, when there was not yet such a variety of wood protection products, the steam rooms were covered with expensive oils of anise, rose, and lavender.

These compositions not only protected the log walls from moisture and rot, but also filled the room with a special natural aroma. For processing, they also used inexpensive hemp and linseed oils and wax, which have not lost their relevance today.

All oil compositions used in the steam room can be divided into two large groups:

For processing walls and ceilings.
For impregnating benches and other surfaces in direct contact with the skin.

General requirements for oils for steam room treatment

Oil impregnation should provide reliable protection for the wood, and at the same time should not deprive it of the ability to breathe.
An important condition is the environmental friendliness of the oil composition. Therefore, to cover the bath room, you need to choose natural products. Synthetic impregnations contain chemical components that, under the influence of high temperatures, form harmful volatile compounds released into the atmosphere. In a small enclosed space, harmful substances are especially dangerous and can cause serious poisoning.
For a bath, it is necessary to use moisture-resistant impregnations that are well absorbed into the wood structure, protecting it from moisture.

Means for processing walls and ceilings

When choosing a wood protective agent for coating the internal surfaces of the steam room, in addition to the special conditions of the bath room, it is necessary to take into account the type of building material. Usually it is logs or lining. For floors, walls and ceilings made of these materials, you can use non-toxic acrylic-based varnishes that do not emit any odor at high temperatures, natural oils and waxes, as well as special impregnations for saunas.

Acrylic varnishes form a protective film that withstands temperature extremes, exposure to water and steam. The composition of varnishes includes antiseptics, so the surfaces do not need additional antiseptic treatment. Natura Teknos acrylic lacquer proved to be excellent, forming a translucent protective coating, under which the woody pattern is clearly visible.

One of the best means for internal processing of wooden surfaces of a log cabin of a bath and a house from a bar is linseed oil. It is an inexpensive natural product with antiseptic and hydrophobic properties. The oil penetrates into the deep layers of wood, providing it with reliable protection. The composition can be used both in pure form and in the form of a mixture with beeswax.

In addition to the pure product, there are various linseed oil-based impregnations on sale, which include natural resins and pine turpentine. The most popular are products under the brands Caparol, Tikkurila, Remmers.

Bath curtain oils

Particular attention should be paid to the choice of composition for impregnating the bath canopy. The canopy is in direct contact with the human body, when using a low-quality composition, a rash and burns may appear on the skin.

Manufacturers produce special oils for shelves that do not form a film on the surface, since when heated it can cause burns. In addition, the impregnation should be of high quality, and should not cause allergic reactions on the skin.

Sauna Natura oil formulations by the Finnish manufacturer Teknos, Tikkurila brand Supi Laudesuoja, Eurotex Sauna have proven themselves better than others in this group of products.
A good wood preservative is carnauba orange oil wax. The composition of the product includes linseed and orange oil. The composition is very thick and looks like mastic. It is used to cover benches and backrests in the sauna.
Another tool used to treat the shelf is beeswax. In addition to wax, the composition includes linseed oil and gum turpentine. This impregnation is less resistant to high temperatures than carnauba wax, so the coating will have to be updated periodically, because. over time, its protective properties weaken.

Rules for applying oil impregnations

Before applying the impregnation, the surface is thoroughly cleaned of dust, dirt and, if necessary, the old coating is removed.
Then the wood is sanded, dried and dust and chips formed as a result of grinding are removed.
The impregnation is well mixed and applied to the surface with a brush with short bristles.
Within 7-10 minutes after treatment, remove excess with a soft, lint-free cloth.
The surfaces are allowed to dry and then polished.
If necessary, the processing is repeated.

The drying time of each layer is from 4 to 24 hours. The exact time required for the drying of a particular product is indicated in the instructions. In addition, the duration of drying is affected by the humidity and temperature of the room, the absorbency of the wood species. In any case, it takes at least a day to completely dry the surface.

Remember! Wood is reliably protected from moisture only when it no longer absorbs.

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