Stationary circular do-it-yourself. Do-it-yourself sawing machine from a circular saw

A circular saw is a specialized piece of equipment that is used for sawing wood, laminate, some types of wall panels, sheet materials such as plywood, OSB, chipboard. When carrying out a number of construction and repair work and carpentry operations, the presence of a stationary type sawing machine can significantly reduce time costs and improve the quality of the result. If it is not possible to purchase a factory-made model, then you can assemble a circular saw with your own hands. To make it yourself, you will need the most common locksmith tools and the skill to work with them. The more necessary materials and parts are available, the cheaper the project will be.

A stationary circular saw is designed to perform fairly large amounts of work. The design of the implemented option in two forms is shown in the diagram below. It also indicates basic installation dimensions, from which it is recommended to build on self-assembly.

In the drawing, the following structural elements of home-made equipment correspond to the numbers:

1 - frame (bed);
2 - side panel;
3 - starting device;
4 - mechanism for adjusting the height of the table, 13 - its stops;
5, 6 and 7 - two halves of the sawing table with a base;
8 - electric motor;
9 - platform for installing the motor;
10 - studs (M10);
11 - saw;
12 - shaft;
14 and 16 - driven and driving pulleys, respectively;
15 - belt;
17 - switch.

Advice! To improve personal safety when operating a homemade mechanism, its rotating parts located under the table should be covered with lids. A protective cover must be installed over the disk during equipment downtime.

It is better to place the starting device in a prominent place on the panel (made of dielectric material) so that access to it is free. It is also recommended to equip the machine emergency switch. It is convenient when it is large.

Focusing on your own needs, you can improve the unit by making it with a jointer or planer. To do this, it is enough to fix the drum with knives on the existing shaft, and make a slot in the table for it of the appropriate size. This will expand the functionality of the created installation: planing lumber on it, chamfering and choosing a quarter from wooden blanks.

If you plan to regularly perform carpentry operations on home-made equipment, then it is recommended to equip it with coordinate table with multiple guides. They need to be fixed at different angles. To organize productive work, you should also provide for the possibility of regulating the speed of the electric motor and quickly replacing disks if necessary.

Selection of materials and details

When creating a homemade circular saw, it is necessary to maintain an optimal balance between its functionality, safety during operation and manufacturing costs. To achieve this, it is necessary to select materials and parts with the desired characteristics. To reduce costs, you need to build on old or unused equipment that is available.

Materials for the manufacture of a bed with a table

For the manufacture of the frame (frame), you can use channel or metal corners(enough size from 25x25mm to 50x50mm). If these materials are not available, then the most economical option is to purchase them at a scrap metal collection point. Water pipes or profile pipes made of metal will go to the legs of the machine.

Advice! The frame elements must be connected to each other using electric welding, because the bolted connections are untwisted under the influence of vibrations.

When assembling the frame, it is also required to weld spacers at the corners to stiffen the structure. To facilitate the movement of the machine, you can equip it with durable wheels (with a metal rim) equipped with locks. It should be borne in mind that the more massive the unit being created, the more stable it must be in order to avoid injury.

Metal pipe frame

The main requirements for a circular table are: resistance to mechanical stress (vibration, shock), the ability to withstand workpieces weighing more than 50 kg without deflection, and surface smoothness. These properties are characterized by sheets of the following materials:

become;
duralumin;
silumin;
textolite;
moisture resistant plywood;
organic glass.

If use moisture resistant plywood, then it should first be upholstered with zinc-coated tin. The use of chipboard or OSB is not recommended due to the instability of these sheet materials to vibration effects.

Important! The strength of the table is of great practical importance. If it cracks or is skewed due to deflection, the disc may jam. This can lead not only to damage to the workpiece, but also to injury.

To carry out various work (for example, spreading logs on boards), you need to equip a table side stop. It performs the same function as the guide rail for a hand-held circular saw: it ensures smooth sawing of lumber. At the same time, its use allows obtaining blanks of different sizes.

Guide stop must be strictly parallel to the disk to avoid jamming of the latter. It can be made from a wooden block or a metal corner. In the first case, only hardwood should be used. To be able to adjust the working gap, the stop must be removable. It can be fixed with clamps or in special grooves (bolts) made parallel to each other on the working surface of the tabletop.

Choice of engine and starting equipment

As a drive for the considered version of a home-made circular machine, it is easiest to use single-phase electric motor. Its power must be selected taking into account the upcoming load. Indirectly, you can navigate by the diameter of the installed disk:

if it is 350 mm, then for the normal operation of the unit you need an electric motor with a power of 1000 W;
for a disc with a diameter of 170 mm, a 500 W motor is sufficient.

In the latter case, it is possible to make a drive mechanism from an engine from a washing machine. It is able to work for a long time at an average load level. For discs with a diameter of 350 mm, an electric motor from an industrial ventilation unit is suitable. It should be fixed rigidly to ensure proper engagement of the belt drive. For this reason, it will not be possible to reduce the level of vibrations by installing the motor on shock absorbers: it will constantly fluctuate.

You can also equip homemade equipment three-phase electric motor(at 380 V) of suitable power. To start it from a 220 V network, you will need to additionally install a working (phase-shifting) and starting capacitors in the electrical circuit. It should also be borne in mind that the engine power in this case will be less than the nominal value indicated on its plate or in the passport.

Starting equipment should be selected based on the power of the motor, on which the maximum current in the circuit will depend. A good option is to use a start button in conjunction with thermal protection - this will protect the electric motor from burning out the windings if the current increases when the disk is jammed. It is better to install protection in a separate electrical panel attached to the side panel of the machine from a convenient side.

All connections must be well insulated so that the wires are not shorted to the frame of a homemade circular saw. The on and off buttons should be pressed without any effort. Due to the frequent storage of equipment outdoors, the electrical part must be well protect from getting wet. The simplest is to cover the unit with oilcloth or similar waterproof material.

Transmission, shaft and disc

To transfer rotation from the electric motor to the disk, the best option is to use V-belt together with pulleys from the car engine. Gears are not recommended for safety reasons. This is due to the fact that if the disk jams, the belt will simply slip, and the gear transmission, due to its rigidity, can cause the entire drive unit to fail.

Advice! If you use pulleys of different diameters, then it will be possible to change the speed of the disk and install various types of it on the machine. This is true in the absence of a motor speed controller.

Shaft manufacturing it is better to entrust a specialist by ordering it from a professional turner. Especially when it is planned to make the circular saw more functional by equipping it, for example, with a planer. But the easiest option is to buy a finished factory-made part. Her sample is shown in the photo below.

Disc for circular machine it is easier to buy ready-made than to make it from a sheet of tool steel. The problem is balancing. The imbalance of the saw during the operation of the equipment leads to its rapid failure and reduces the level of safety of the work process. If there is a circular saw for wood, then you can remove the saw blade from it.

It is necessary that the diameter of the blade correspond to the corresponding parameter of the sawn timber being cut: for example, for 100 mm logs, you will need to use a saw with a size of approximately 350 mm. This is due to the fact that the disk should not protrude more than a third of its diameter above the working surface of the table.

Ignoring this requirement leads not only to a deterioration in the quality of sawing workpieces, but also increases the possibility of injury.

Algorithm for assembling a homemade circular saw

The assembly of the woodworking machine according to the previously given drawing is performed in the following sequence:

from the corners make a rectangular frame;
four legs are welded to it at the corners of the desired height;
at a height of about 200 mm from their lower edge, they make a harness from the corners;
a shaft is mounted on the upper frame;
a driven pulley is fixed on one side of it, and a disk on the other;
a table with a lifting mechanism is made and attached to the frame;
on the lower frame, a platform is made of corners or sheet metal for an electric motor;
a drive pulley is fixed on the motor shaft;
put the belt on the pulleys;
on the side panel of the unit, on and off buttons and an electrical panel are mounted;
using wires of a suitable section, connect the elements of the electrical circuit of the equipment (motor, buttons, protection);
supply power to the machine from a fixed network.

The final step is checking the performance of the assembled equipment. To begin with, it is worth making sure that all moving parts rotate freely: for this, just twist the drive pulley by hand. Then you can run the unit in test mode. If a strong vibration is detected, then it will be necessary to check the reliability of the bolted connections and the fixation of the disc.

You can make a circular saw with a table consisting of two halves or one piece. In the latter case, it will need to cut a rectangular slot for the disk. The design of the machine with a table consisting of two halves is shown in the video below. Also in this video, the device of the lifting mechanism for these parts is demonstrated.

Important! To prevent the saw from jamming due to the connection of fragments of the workpiece being cut, it is recommended to install a riving knife. It should be positioned at a distance of approximately 3 mm behind the disc.

To adjust the belt tension, the motor must be installed so that it can be moved. The easiest way to achieve this is to create larger slots than are required for the motor mounting bolts. In this case, the expansion of the holes must be carried out in the direction of the belt tension.

If you follow the drawing completely, you will need to make a more complex belt tension mechanism. The process will be carried out by pulling up the platform with the electric motor with the help of studs and fixing it with locking bolts in the desired position (in the drawing, these structural elements are indicated by the number 10).

The entire design and assembly process can be greatly simplified if circular saw blade. In this case, the need to mount a number of parts (motor, disk, shaft, belt, starter) is eliminated. But the capabilities of the created model will be limited by the power of the tool used.

Homemade circular anyway must be grounded. It is also recommended to install a residual current device or a differential circuit breaker in the shield. These measures will protect against electric shock if the machine body is energized, for example, due to a breakdown in wire insulation. Components for the electrical part of the circular machine are best chosen so that they are suitable for repair and easy to maintain. Free access to equipment nodes will help to replace failed parts without any problems.

A do-it-yourself circular saw is an excellent tool that allows you to solve a large number of household and other tasks. In fact, it is not difficult to make this device on your own even if you do not have any special skills, the most important thing is to understand at least a little the principle of processing metal alloys.

The materials needed for the job can be found in the home workshop or in the garage. So, do-it-yourself circular saw made from the following elements:

corner made of strong steel;
rectangular profile pipe;
engine.

The finished circular saw can be placed on a workbench. If you do not have it, you will have to make a table yourself. The engine can be taken from an old walk-behind tractor or a washing machine.

Circular from an angle grinder

If you have your own "Bulgarian", this is very good. To create a "circular" you need to make an axial handle and a sliding stop to the unit. The design of the sliding stop includes a pair of pieces of steel angle placed on the sides of the saw blade. With the help of nuts and bolts, they are connected by a transverse ligament, and the gap between the working part and the sidewalls of the structure will be provided by washers.

On the "grinder" you need to pre-tighten the metal band clamp with a screw tie down. Then you need to attach the folded metal strip in half to the holes for the sliding stop. The post and collar can be combined, but in this situation the metal strip will be too thick.

Then, in the gearbox of the future tool, you will need to make several holes for the bolts. For this purpose, the body is disassembled, and the points where drilling will take place are indicated. With the help of the holes made, the axial handle is fixed, because the “regular” handle will not allow you to make a good cut, even if the master has very strong hands.

The handle is created from a metal tube or rod. Designs can be shaped like a horn or staple. The ends of the element, with which it will be attached to the gearbox, must be provided with holes for installing fasteners.

You also need to make a bar that will regulate the process. For this purpose, you need to take a piece of a metal rod, make a loop from one of its ends, rivet it slightly and make a hole for the front stop bolt.

From the other end of the rod you need to make a thread, which will allow you to connect it to the handle. In advance, one strong nut should be screwed onto this thread, and after the structure is assembled, the second. Lowering and tightening them, you can adjust the depth of cut. By the way, if you use a drill instead of a grinder, you can make a similar tool.

Thus, you can independently make a good circular saw from an ordinary grinder, with which you can cut various materials.

Compact desktop machine

Above we talked about how to assemble a manual circular. Now we will tell you how to turn this device into a stationary one. This process involves the manufacture of a U-shaped frame from a pipe, as well as the installation of a transverse arm. The lower ends of the structure must be bent horizontally in the direction of the cut. They are bolted to the table. Stability is provided by additional supports.

Lever mobility is provided by cutting a horizontal segment into two identical parts, which are fixed to each other with clamps. The cutting disc is attached to the vertical element of the bed with clamps.

Stationary installation

A machine that looks like factory models needs a competent attitude during the assembly process, so you need to take care of all the little things in advance. The desktop version of the "circular" differs from the stationary one only in the height of the bed, which is determined by the features of the work and the size of future workpieces. One-time processing can also be done using an ordinary table saw, which after work can be easily removed to a pantry or barn. But the master, who constantly deals with wood, will need a stationary installation. Therefore, he needs to make a table for a circular saw with his own hands.

The circular saw has the following advantages:

Such equipment allows you to make better and deeper cuts.
The machine is much more convenient than manual equipment.

From the foregoing, we can conclude that self-made circular saws have a completely understandable and simple design, and the drawings that can be found on the World Wide Web will greatly simplify the process of assembling equipment. Before self-production of the "circular", you should separately consider all the necessary elements in order to understand the nuances of the functioning and installation of home-made equipment.

Do-it-yourself homemade circular saw, design drawings, diagrams and a detailed description.

Description of the structure.

In this embodiment, the following adjustment nodes are provided:

1. The belt tension is carried out by four M8 bolts, which press the moving part of the mechanism to the stationary one. On the moving part of the mechanism, an electric motor is fixed. It has four threaded holes M8. In the fixed part, grooves are made for the size of the adjusting bolts. The mobile bed slides on bolts to the right or to the left. Adjustment is made in the following sequence: release the bolts; we stretch the belt with our hands, pressing on the electric motor: we clamp the bolts.

2. The depth of cut is adjusted by turning the entire assembly of the saw blade about the axis. The axis is located in the opposite part of the machine, relative to the fixation nuts. The fixation of the desired position is carried out with two M12 fixing nuts on a 19 size wrench.

3. Cutting width or guide plane along the saw blade, made of 30x70 (mm) duralumin corner. Preloaded pins are inserted into a small part of the corner, with the help of which the corner easily moves along the through grooves made in the machine plate. In the middle of the pins, at the bottom of the plate, there is an M8 bolt. In the desired position, the corner is fixed on the table with wing nuts.

View of the adjustment unit from the bottom of the table

View of the adjustment unit from above the table

Characteristics of a circular saw:

Power, W - 750
Food, V - 220
Number of revolutions per minute, rpm - 1500
Saw blade diameter, mm - 180
Landing diameter of the saw blade, mm - 20
Maximum cutting depth, mm - 50
Maximum cutting width from the guide plane, mm - 150

Dimensions:

Width, mm - 450
Length, mm - 700
Height, mm - 411

Design features:

Homemade circular saw on double row ball bearings, which significantly increases the life of the equipment
the bed is made of a square tube, the possibility of its stationary fastening to the floor or a workbench is provided
table six millimeters thick, made of metal plate
inside the frame there is a protective casing against wood chips, made of sheet metal with a thickness of 0.8 ... 1.0 mm

- a necessary and useful tool in the arsenal of a home master. It is especially necessary for those who work a lot with wood. To make a circular saw on your own, it is enough to have a great desire, the necessary tools and be able to work with metal.

Serious tool

A do-it-yourself circular saw can be a stationary or desktop model. In essence, they are one and the same. The devices differ only in the height of the bed. What height to do will depend on the intensity of use of the workplace. If the saw is rarely used, then it can be made in the desktop version. If necessary, the structure can be dismantled and make room in the workshop for other work. If the master constantly works with wood, then a stationary circular saw is more suitable for him.

The stationary structure consists of several main components: a table, a toothed disk, an engine, an adjustable side stop and a shaft.

For its manufacture will be needed:

A sheet of metal with a thickness of at least 8 mm.
Metal corner 45x45 mm.
Electric motor.
Metal disc with teeth (diameter 400 mm).
Ball bearings.
Welding machine.
Wooden block.
A piece of plastic or laminate.

It will be much easier to make a circular saw with your own hands if you first draw up a drawing of the future design and indicate all the necessary dimensions. All parts are made in accordance with the drawing, and then assembled into a frame using a welding machine.

O longitudinal cutting of rolled products.

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Assembly of a stationary structure

The main part of the saw is the table. The tabletop must be made of sheet metal. Its dimensions depend on the preferences of the master. The main thing is that the circular saw with your own hands is stable and it is convenient to work on it. If additional space is required for installing other fixtures, then the surface can be covered with a sheet of thick plywood (Fig. 1).

Particular attention must be paid to the height of the guide. It is most convenient when the guide protrudes 120 mm above the table. As experience shows, with this arrangement, it becomes possible to process boards not only in width, but also in thickness.

Figure 1. A sheet of thick plywood is great for covering the countertop surface to install additional fixtures.

To make a guide for a circular saw, you will need 2 pieces of a metal corner and a clamp that is welded to them. The metal part is intentionally made from two parts of the corner. A solid corner will lead when the saw is working. Using bolts and self-tapping screws, you need to fasten a wooden block to the corners, and fix a piece of plastic or laminate 120 mm wide on it. The length of the piece of laminate should correspond to the length of the table. This part should be exposed at an angle of 90 ° relative to the tabletop (Fig. 2).

A do-it-yourself circular saw must be height adjustable. In some designs, you can adjust the table, but it is more convenient for work when you can raise and lower the saw itself.

A single platform is required to install the motor and shaft. It should be installed on one axis in the form of a rocker arm. It is fixed with a piece of bolt with a diameter of 15 mm, which is welded to it. A metal plate must be welded on the side of the saw, in which a hole must first be made. Its shape should be oblong along the rocker arm. A bolt will pass through it, onto which a lamb with handles should be screwed. The saw clamp is ready. If it becomes necessary to adjust the height, then the lamb is unscrewed, the saw is set along the ruler and the lamb is twisted back. When using a disc with a diameter of 400 mm, boards up to 240 mm wide can be processed (Fig. 3).

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Make other options

Figure 2. A piece of laminate should be attached to a wooden block, the angle of which should be 90 ° relative to the tabletop.

A do-it-yourself circular saw can be made in a manual version. The easiest way is to make it from a grinder, making some improvements to its design. On the grinder, you need to install an axial handle and a sliding stop.

To make a sliding stop, 2 pieces of a corner will be needed. They are located on the sides of the disk with teeth, which replaces the abrasive wheel. Corners are attached with a gap of 3-4 mm. Front and rear they are connected with bolts and nuts. Washers must be used to obtain clearance. The bottom edge of the corners must be rounded. Thanks to this, they will not cling to the processed objects.

A do-it-yourself circular saw from a grinder is equipped with a sliding stop. A clamp is attached to the body. It is made from metal tape. Its tie should be located below. A galvanized strip with a thickness of at least 1-1.5 mm is attached to the tape, on which you first need to make a hole for the sliding stop bolt. With the help of washers, gaps are established between the working part and the side parts of the stop. The gaps must be the same size.

An axial handle is attached to the gearbox housing. To do this, the gearbox is disassembled so that you can determine at what points to make 4 holes for small bolts. The handle is made from a piece of pipe or rod and must be in the form of a bracket. Its width is slightly wider than the master's palm. At the ends with which it will be attached to the gearbox, it is necessary to drill holes for the bolts. It is not worth flaring the ends of the tube so that the handle does not bend during operation.

A piece of rod or tube protruding forward should be fixed under the handle. Flare the end of the tube and make a hole for the axle with a thickness of 4-6 mm. The hole should be 4 mm larger. To make it convenient to work, a gap of at least 100-150 mm is left between the rod and the handle.

Figure 3. Scheme of a disk for a circular.

The next step is the manufacture of the adjusting rod. This will require a piece of rod with a diameter of 4-6 mm. The end of the pipe is bent in the form of a loop, slightly flared. Using washers at the front end of the stop, the same gap is set along the entire length.

The part of the rod that will fit into the hole on the handle must be threaded. Before inserting the rod, screw the nut onto it. Another nut is screwed on after assembly. Nuts will provide adjustment of the depth of cut. If necessary, they need to be released or tightened.

The household often lacks a circular saw, especially if major repairs or construction are underway. Not everyone can afford industrial products - they are too expensive. But you can make a circular yourself, using the materials that are available in the household.

Design - the main nodes, their purpose

A do-it-yourself stationary circular saw is created with advancement in several possible directions:

adaptation of an existing hand tool, using an engine and a circular saw for new opportunities;
improvement of industrial products to expand functionality;
assembly from separate parts, made mainly in-house.

A stationary circular machine includes several main components: a table, a shaft, an engine, and some others, the characteristics of which are not so important.

The table serves for fixing woodworking mechanisms. It can be assembled completely from metal, which is preferable, especially for machine tools with a large engine. Wood also makes good circular tables. But it must be borne in mind that the countertop should be covered with a sheet of metal, otherwise the wood will soon wear out. Tables must be very rigid and stable, capable of withstanding a considerable load during work. The surface is made perfectly flat; protective shields must be installed above the rotating parts.

For a homemade circular, the engine from the washing machine is well suited. Portable tools are less suitable: their collector motors are designed only for short-term work. They have very high speeds, low efficiency, they are afraid of clogging. You can use a three-phase electric motor, but if there is no 380 V on the farm, you will need to purchase capacitors to make it work from 220 V.

The most responsible node is the shaft. Use ready-made, if available, or machined from round metal. Work on a lathe is performed in one setup, then, together with the working bodies, the centering is checked. Even the minimum beat is unacceptable, otherwise it will become stronger in work, at which it is unacceptable to work. Seats are provided on the shaft: for a circular saw and for pulleys on the other side. You can also make grooves for planer knives.

Basic parameters - calculation of power, revolutions, transmission

The characteristics of the saw blade, the engine and the maximum thickness of the lumber that can be cut are interrelated. On the purchased circular disk, the maximum speed for which it is designed is indicated. The number of revolutions transmitted by the engine to the shaft should be less. The power of the motor influences the maximum allowable sawtooth diameter. The diameter must be at least three times the thickness of the material, otherwise sawing will be difficult. It is believed that for sawing materials with a thickness of 100 mm, you need a motor of at least 1 kW of power.

The transmission is made only by a V-belt - if foreign objects get under the saw, the material is jammed, the belt slips on the pulleys. Traumatism in such cases is practically excluded. It is important to choose the right gear ratio. We take into account two indicators: engine speed and the maximum allowable number of revolutions of the circular saw. We calculate the required diameters of the pulleys. A pulley with a large diameter is installed on the engine, and a smaller one on the shaft for the circular to increase the number of revolutions.

The revolutions of the shaft with a circular saw are as many times greater than the revolutions of the engine, as the diameter of its pulley is smaller than the diameter of the pulley on the engine.

Woodworking machine - a capital product for the home

For working with wood in large volumes, it is better to have a machine that allows you to cut the material, plan, choose a quarter. Requires a sufficiently powerful electric motor, hard table. We present a structure made of steel angle and sheet steel. It provides a cutting depth of 60 mm, it is possible to plan boards with a width of 200 mm. A three-phase motor 1.1 kW, 2700 rpm is used. Capacitors are required for connection to 220V.

1 - machine frame; 2 - panel; 3 - starter; 4 - a device for adjusting the height; 5.7 - desktop of two halves; 6 - base; 8 - engine; 9 - platform; 10 - studs M10; 11 - circular disk; 12 - shaft; 13 - stops of the lifting mechanism; 14 - driven pulley; 15 - belt; 16 - drive pulley; 17 - switch.

The working table has dimensions of 700×300 mm. In the drawing we see that the height of the entire structure is 350 mm. The height is insufficient for comfortable work, the circular will have to be installed on an additional platform, it weighs only 35 kg. You can increase the length and width, increase the height up to 1200 mm. We adjust the rest of the dimensions to fit them, but the design features remain unchanged.

First, we make the bed frame from steel corners 25 × 25 mm. If we are not going to increase the height, we make another same lower frame. For a frame with a greater height, first we weld four legs from the same corners to the upper frame, and then we tie them at a height of 15–20 cm from the bottom. The lower frame has slots for the motor platform locking bolts. Two studs are welded to the back side of the platform, which go into the holes on the back of the lower frame. Tightening the studs, tighten the belts, then lock the platform by tightening the nuts on the studs that go into the grooves.

To adjust the height of the table in relation to the saw, we use a simple lifting mechanism. It consists of racks, in the upper part of which we cut grooves at an angle of 45 °. In total, eight racks are needed - four on each side. We weld them to the frame with grooves located in a mirror image. We attach the crossbars to the outer racks. In the middle of each of them we drill holes, weld nuts. Threaded shafts will move along them to control the rise.

At the end, they rest against the racks welded to the drawers assembled from the corners of 75 × 50 mm. On the side, we weld the studs into them opposite the grooves for the adjusting mechanism. The table consists of two equal halves and is attached to the sides with countersunk bolts. The adjustment mechanism works like this:

loosen the nuts on the racks;
turn the screw that presses the stop, raising or lowering the table;
tighten the stud nuts;
perform a similar adjustment for the second half of the working surface.

The design can be simplified without installing the adjusting shaft. Raise and lower the table manually. If you assemble the table not from two halves, but as a solid one, you will need only four racks for the lifting mechanism.

Hand-held circular saw - turning into a stationary one

It is easy to make a stationary one from a manual circular saw, expanding its capabilities. The first thing you need is a table. Finnish plywood will serve as a convenient material, which, unlike ordinary plywood, is laminated - the workpieces slide well over the surface during processing. It is thick enough to withstand a lot of weight, moisture resistant, and can be processed well. You can use ordinary plywood 20 mm, only it needs to be painted, and it is better to cover it with sheet steel or textolite.

It must be understood that the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the cover. You will need a large diameter disc so as not to reduce functionality compared to a portable tool. We make the dimensions of the tabletop sufficient so that the workpiece fits in width. It should be added that an electric planer and a jigsaw can be additionally strengthened on a wide table, which will make the machine universal.

Using drawings and explanations, it is not difficult to make accessories for a circular saw that will expand its capabilities.

We mark a rectangle of the required dimensions on a sheet of plywood, cut it out, process the edges. With the sole we apply a hand circular to the surface and mark the attachment points with a pencil. We make a slot for a circular saw. You can slightly deepen the attachment point using a cutter, but not more than 10 mm, so as not to weaken the countertop. This manufacturing method will bring the depth of cut closer to the circular saw indicated in the passport.

We make a frame (tsargi) from the boards, which we will install from below to strengthen the structure. We fasten four boards into a box, glue it to the countertop, securing it with clamps. Through the table we screw screws into the boards. The holes for them are countersinked on top so that the heads of the self-tapping screws are hidden. We fasten the legs to the sides of the stationary saw, preferably with bolts with washers and nuts. The table should be provided with additional rigidity, so we make spacers at the bottom of the legs.

We make a restrictive bar equal to the length of the working surface. In it we drill two grooves perpendicular to the disk, in which the bar will move and be fixed at a certain distance from the saw blade. It remains to make changes to the control system: we fix the control button in the on state with electrical tape. We install a socket connected to the network on the drawer. In the break of the wire going to the saw, we mount the switch.

Some moments of the execution of home-made devices

No matter how well the circular is made, individual errors can lead to the fact that its performance will be limited. This concerns, at first glance, seemingly trifles. Let's start with the bearings for the shaft. The installation of conventional is justified if the machine is used from time to time. For a homemade device with constant use, it is better to install self-aligning bearings. They consist of two rows of balls, adjustable by tightening the clamping nut. Install a cover to protect against dust, chips is mandatory.

On the working surface, we put a scale in centimeter increments. This will make it much easier to work with the tree when determining the width of the cut. Many neglect the installation of a protective shield over the disc, but in vain - treatment from chips getting into the eye or in more serious situations is more expensive.

When working with different materials, it is often necessary to adjust the speed of the circular saw. A self-made design, as a rule, does not have the ability to control the engine speed. There is only one way out - the use of pulleys of various diameters. They are mounted on the motor shaft. If you undertake to order pulleys from a turner, immediately make a solid pulley with two or three different diameters.

Many people want to install a three-phase electric motor on the sawing machine without having 380 V. You will need capacitors rated for a minimum operating voltage of 600 V paper or oil-paper type.

We calculate the capacitance of capacitors based on the power of the electric motor: for 1 kW - 100 μF for a working capacitor Cf. We take the capacity of the starting Cn twice as large. The SB trigger is a button that automatically returns to its original position. The start is simple: SQ is turned on, SB is pressed for a couple of seconds. After starting, the button is released, as soon as the engine picks up speed, you can cut.