Iris Siberian planting and care flowering. Siberian irises: planting and care

But recognition has come!

Iris Siberian, variety "Troeger Anne Marie"

Rainbow! This is how the name of the flower is translated, the history of which goes back thousands of years. So the ancient Greeks called the winged messenger of Zeus and Hera, the personification and goddess of the rainbow. Iris, or Irida, appeared from the clouds after the rain, descending to the ground along an airy arch, shimmering with all the colors of the solar spectrum. On the ground, the colors of the rainbow are scattered in a variety of colors.

But the richness of shades, embodied in irises, is really a gift from the gods, which is impossible not to notice. Hippocrates, who gave the name to the familiar flower, clearly had no doubts about this.

Siberian iris, variety "Alba"

Founder modern classification plants Carl Linnaeus retained this name. Subsequent botanists collected and counted all the irises of our planet, and it turned out that they more than 200 types!

All irises share into two large groups by the presence or absence of a beard on the outer petals of a flower - bearded and unbearded. Most of the bearded irises are garden varieties.

Siberian irises are included in the group of non-bearded irises. This group is the most numerous in nature. Ancestors of varieties and hybrids of the class Siberian irises are 3 types:

• Siberian iris (Iris sibirica),
• blood-red iris (Iris sanguinea, and. Oriental - its outdated name),
• horn-leaved iris (Iris typhifolia).

Benefits of Siberian Irises

The passion for change, freshness of impressions and the opening of new horizons made the breeders turn towards the "Siberians". Refined sophistication - that's what captivates them at first sight. It manifests itself in the form of a flower, and in the lines of narrow, “light” leaves, and in the silhouette of a bush. These features bring an intriguing element of novelty to what we have known so well for so long.

Multiply the charm and grace of this flower by the already known potential of the color palette, endurance"Siberians" and compliance of their requirements with our climate, and as a consequence - simpler rules of care, and it will become clear why Siberian irises in our gardens have a truly bright future.

Siberian iris "Harpswell Haze"

Siberian iris flowers smaller compared to the flowers of traditional garden irises, but there are more of them on the bush. A four-year-old bush can have up to forty flower stalks! Besides, smaller petals are easier to resist and retain beauty in rain and wind. Interestingly, in some varieties, the buds bloom at once, resembling lush bouquets in others - sequentially, prolonging the flowering time. For different purposes in design, you need both. The varieties with a branching peduncle bloom longer than others, including an almost white, lavender-tinged iris ‘Hohe Warte’. From domestic varieties blooms for a record long time ‘ Leader of Altai ’ .

Lovely Siberian irises with birches in the background are ready to be perceived by our eyes as part of our native nature, so we can easily find a corner for them in the garden, while in the south, luxurious exotics from the group of bearded irises claim to be a ceremonial reception and ceremonial places.

Delightful flower shape, marvelous shades and pattern on the petals require proper delivery. Therefore, when choosing varieties for the garden, it is important to evaluate not only the details of the flower, but also how the plant displays its beauty.

Iris Siberian "White Swirl"

Flowers can soar in a flock, towering above the leaves, or be flush with them. And it is quite difficult to appreciate their beauty from afar, if they do not reach the tips of the leaves, but hide between them. At the same time, in a container, such irises will be interesting. In a word, choose: at your disposal are plants with a height of peduncles from 40 to 160 cm!

landscape decoration

• On theback of a mixborder or in the center of an island flower bed varieties with peduncles above a meter and a classic flower shape with petals bent down are good. One of the most high grades(1.6 m) - dark blue with wide petals ‘ Hohenflug ’ . In the foreground, varieties with an open, cupped flower win.

• At the pond. Narrow graceful leaves merge harmoniously with the surrounding coastal vegetation, and flowers, like moths flying out of the grass, are picturesquely reflected in the water. (Plants are planted on the shore, but not in the water!) Reflected in the water, irises will increase their beauty.

• groupson the lawn. If you do not cut the stems after flowering, spectacular seed boxes will add extra interest to picturesque curtains in the second half of summer and autumn. To make it easier to care for irises, protect plantings from the lawn with curb tape and mulch the ground around the bushes.

• In large rockeries group planting is possible, in small ones - individual specimens are used as vertical accents or planted miniature varieties‘Baby Sister’, ‘Summerchase Advent’, ‘Annick’, ‘My Little Sunshine’. miniature varieties Siberian irises in a few years can suddenly gain height. To prevent this from happening, they should divide more often.

Lilac and pink varieties are especially spectacular.

Our market will help you choose varieties of irises, where goods from various online stores are collected. .

Care

Feed the irises in spring full comprehensive. Until young plants get stronger after planting, good watering is needed. Over time, irises grow, forming a powerful root system, and it is easier to cope with a lack of moisture. Therefore, adult bushes can be watered less often, but watering is required in drought. It is better to water infrequently, but abundantly, soaking the soil to the full depth of the roots.

In the formation of peduncles or after flowering, apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. In late autumn, after the onset of frost (or at the very beginning of spring), old leaves are cut to a height of 15 cm. In order not to reduce the winter hardiness of bushes that have lost their natural shelter, it is useful to mulch the plants for the winter. well-ripened humus or compost with a layer of about 2 cm in spring and after flowering can replace mineral dressings.

What varieties of irises grow in your garden?

From point of view garden classification Siberian irises include both species of the sibirica series and varieties obtained as a result of crossing both different types of the series, and as a result of the use of chemical mutagens. Most Russian flower growers are well aware bearded irises, but the Siberian ones, suitable for growing almost throughout Russia, remain, alas, in the shadows. Meanwhile, it is precisely them, having adjusted the complex of agrotechnical measures, that can be successfully cultivated in the south and, most importantly, in the north. Siberian irises are the most practical and reliable culture for cold, not very favorable regions of Russia for floriculture. And this, by the way, is almost 70% of the country's territory.

"Double Standards"	"Imperial Opal"	"Indi"
Rigamarole	Roaring Jelly	Shaker's Prayer
Photos by Dronova Tatiana

The series of Siberian irises is divided into two sub-series Sibiricae and Chrysographes. The first includes three types of irises, in the nuclei of cells of which 28 chromosomes .

The most common and long-used species of this subseries in landscaping is the Siberian iris ( I. sibirica).

Siberian iris - Iris sibirica L. The distribution area from west to east is unusually huge: from the northern regions of Italy and eastern Switzerland right up to Lake Baikal. Its northernmost populations are found in the southern regions of the Arkhangelsk region and the Komi Republic, and the southernmost in the Caucasus and northern Turkey. It is included in the regional Red Books of the Omsk, Tver, Tyumen regions and the Stavropol Territory as rare, found in few places, and in the Altai Territory as an indeterminate species. Two populations are protected by the Visimsky and Polistovsky reserves. Rhizome above with brown remnants of leaf sheaths. The stem is branched at the top, with 2-3 stem-bearing leaves. Basal leaves are linear, up to 50-80 cm long. Leaflets are lanceolate, herbaceous. Flowers 2-3 in number, on unequal pedicels, with a short perianth tube, dark blue. Outer perianth segments. as well as internal, blue, with a pale blue marigold. Capsule 2-3 cm long, obtuse. Seeds light gray, flattened. It was first grown by Grigory Demidov in the Solikamsk Garden from 1780. It has been mentioned in the Imperial St. Petersburg Botanical Garden since 1857. In Moscow, in Gorenki, until 1812. Near Moscow, in Ol'gino, it was grown from 1909 to 1911. In the Pomological Garden of E. Regel and J. Kesselring from 1873 to 1917. live plants and seeds were offered for sale. It is very hardy in culture, including outside its natural range. Flowering and fruiting in botanical gardens Barnaul, Vladivostok, Moscow, Novosibirsk, St. Petersburg, Ufa, Chita. In St. Petersburg winters without shelter. Soils prefer rich, sufficiently moist, slightly acidic. It is of value for breeding when creating winter-hardy forms. Suitable for cutting, planting tree and shrub groups, for mixborders and solitary plantings against the background of the lawn. There are varieties of domestic (Rodionenko, St. Petersburg; Dolganova, Barnaul; Mironova, Vladivostok) and varieties of foreign selection. Numerous interspecific hybrids have been created. "Simon Says" Photo by Andrey Ganov "Space Filled" Photo by Andrey Ganov "Tree Of Songs" Photo by Andrey Ganov

The second type of 28-chromosome Siberian irises is the blood-red iris ( I. sanguinea) - grows from the shores of Lake Baikal to the shores of the Sea of ​​Okhotsk and the Sea of ​​Japan. Outside of Russia, blood red iris is found in northeastern China, Mongolia, the Korean Peninsula and the Japanese archipelago.

Iris blood red or Oriental- I. sanguinea Dorm= I. orientalis Thunb. = I. sibirica L. var. orientalis Baker Siberian-Far Eastern species, widespread in Russia - in Eastern Siberia, Primorsky Krai, and beyond - in Northeast China, Japan, Mongolia, Korea. In floodplain wet meadows, along the edges of larch forests with dwarf birch. It is included in the Red Book of the Chita region as a rare species found in a few places. One of the populations is located on the territory of the Sokhondinsky Reserve. It is close to the Siberian iris, but differs in the reddish-violet color of the base of the leaves of the involucre, more narrow leaves, almost the same height with peduncles, a wide rounded plate of the outer perianth lobes. Peduncle up to 70 cm tall usually ends with 2-3 (5) medium-sized flowers of light or dark purple color. Blooms in June. Fruits in September. The box is oblong-oval. Seeds dark brown, flattened. In culture since 1792. Agricultural techniques, application and areas of culture are similar to those described for I. sibirica. Easily hybridizes with the latter (there are numerous hybrids of these species in culture). Ecologically heterogeneous: there are warm and dry-loving forms, which are difficult to cultivate in the regions of the North-West of the European part of Russia. In culture, it was first mentioned in the Imperial St. Petersburg Botanical Garden in 1857. It has been cultivated in Olgino near Moscow since 1911. It blooms and bears fruit in the botanical gardens of Barnaul, Vladivostok, Novosibirsk, Pyatigorsk, Ufa, Yakutsk, Chita. Unpretentious in introduction. In St. Petersburg winters without shelter. It is of value for breeding when creating winter-hardy forms. The red-violet color of the base of the leaflets of the wrapper is very decorative. Suitable for cutting, planting tree and shrub groups, for mixborders and solitary plantings against the backdrop of a lawn. There are varieties of foreign selection. Numerous interspecific hybrids involving this species have been created. Photo source: http://www.hootowlhollow.com/photos/perennials/iris5.html

The third species of the sub-series is the horn-leaved iris ( I. typhifolia) - was recently discovered in the nature of northeast China and central Mongolia. This is the least studied species with unusually early flowering times, like dwarf bearded irises. The color of the flowers of these species, as a rule, is blue, blue, purple colors, and in the first two there are populations with white and lilac flowers. The height of the peduncles varies from 15-30 cm: in the Siberian iris " Nana"- (I. sibirica " Nana"), 25 cm (Siberian iris " Nana Alba") (I. sibirica " Nana Alba"), 25 cm (iris blood red " Nana Alba") (I. sanguinea " Nana Alba") up to 1.5 m.

"Snow Queen" Photo EDSR	Caesar Brothers Photo by Georgy Lotkin	"Super Ego" Photo by Yuri Markovsky
"kaboom" Photo by Oleg Vasiliev	Roaring Jelly Photo by Oleg Vasiliev	Salamander Crossing Photo by Oleg Vasiliev
"Silver Edge" Photo by Andrey Ganov	"Northern Pink" Photo by Andrey Ganov	Lady Vanessa
"Lilting Laura" Photo by Andrey Ganov	"Moon silk" Photo by Andrey Ganov	"Yellow Dreaming" Photo by Andrey Ganov

40-chromosome Siberian irises include 8 species: golden iris - I. chrysographes(flowers red-violet to black, height of peduncles 35-45 cm), Clark's iris - I. clarkei(flowers are blue to purple, the height of the peduncles is 60 cm), Delaway iris - /. delavay(flowers from light to dark blue-violet colors, peduncles height 60 cm), Dykes iris - /. dykesii(the flowers are very dark, violet-purple, the height of the peduncles is 90 cm), Bull's iris - /. bulleyana(flowers dark purple), height of peduncles 35-40 cm), yellow Forrest iris - /. forrestii(peduncles height 15-40 cm) and Wilson's iris - /. wilsonii(height of peduncles 60-75 cm), reed iris - /. pharmitetorum(the flowers are blue, the height of the peduncles is 50 cm) The flowers of Wilson's and Forrest's irises also smell. The natural ranges of these species are the highlands of China. Separate populations were found in the mountains of India, Burma, Nepal. Iris reed is found in the swampy thickets of southwestern China. Bull's and Dykes' irises have not yet been found in nature. So it is possible that these two species are actually species hybrids from free pollination of 40 chromosome Siberian irises.

"Cambridge" Photo by Andrey Ganov	"Ruffled Velvet" Photo by Yuri Markovsky	Rikugi Sakura Photo by Konstantinova Natalia
"Easter C.D.M." Photo by M.Barbuhatti	"Flight of Butterflies" Photo by M.Barbuhatti	"Ewen" Photo Alexandrova Natalia

Currently, more than 500 varieties of Siberian irises are known. Moreover, approximately 95% of the assortment are 28-chromosome irises. The first varieties appeared more than a hundred years ago, in late XIX centuries, and were cultivars selected from free pollination. And the most intensive selection work with Siberian irises was carried out in the 70-90s of the last century. By the end of the 90s, new flower forms, not typical for Siberian irises, became a reality: terry (multipetal) and Japanese six-follow in the absence of standards (double). There are diploid and tetraploid varieties. The latter have a double set of chromosomes in the cells. The first tetraploid varieties were obtained by the action of colchicine on germinating seeds, and the subsequent ones were obtained by crossing tetraploid varieties with each other. As a rule, tetraploid Siberian irises have stiff xiphoid foliage with wider and thicker bluish-gray leaves. (Although many diploid varieties have a very beautiful, not falling apart leaf apparatus). The flowers of tetraploid Siberian irises tend to be larger, with denser substance and floating fouls. Among the varieties, the diploid "Mary Lurs Michi" impresses with its very wide foliage of bright green color - "Mary Lours Michie"(lavender-pink flowers) and the tallest foliage - the tetraploid "High Standard" - "High Standards"(blue-purple flowers). Well, the most famous Siberian iris was, perhaps, the raspberry variety "Strawberry Fair" ("Strawberry Fair") with a surprisingly perfect and highly ruffled flower shape.

The most modern varieties of Siberian irises:

With white flowers: "Frostid Emerald"("Frosted Emerald") , "Gould Frosty Morning" ("Gold Frosty Morning" , "Elegance and Simplicity"("Elegance And Simplicity") , "Rolling Cloud"("Rolling Cloud") , "Narpswell Snow"("Harpswell Snow") , "White Prelude"("While Prelude")

With creamy yellow flowers: "Butter and Cream"("Butter And Cream") , "Nellow Yellow"("Hello Yellow") , "Just Cruising"("Just Cruising") , "Sunny Spells"("Sunny Spells")

With lavender-pink flowers: "Lady Lilac("Lady Lilac") , "Lavander Fair"(lavander fair") , "Lafing Allegra"(laughing Allegra") , "Pepple Sand"("Purple Sand")

With blue flowers: "Jiggles"("Jigles") , "Pride In Blue"("Pride In Blue") , "Sea Ove Dreams"("Sea of ​​Dreams")

With crimson flowers: "Strawberry Fire"("Strawberry Fair") , "Strawberry Social"("Strawberry Social")

With dark blue and purple flowers: "Magnum Bordeaux"("Magnum Bordeaux") , "Spindazzle"("Spindazzle") , "Berliner Welle"("Berliner Welle") , "Free Hand Star"("Three Hand Star")

With double flowers: "Kablue"("Kablueu") , "Shiband Kabum"("Shetland Kaboom") , "Tumble Bug"("Tumble Bug") , "Double Standard"("Double Standards")

There is a large group of dwarf Siberian irises: purple" Ennik"- "Annlck" (30 cm), " Baby Sister"- "Baby Sister" (15 cm), " Blue Snippet"- "Blue Snippet" (25 cm), " Sassy Kuma"- "Sassy Koota" (45 cm), white " Weiser Zwerg- "Weiser Zwerg" and many others.

In 1950, the American Iris Society established the highest award for 28-chromosomal Siberian irises, the Morgan Award, and in 1984 it was turned into the Morgan-Wood Medal. In 2000, the variety "Over In Gloryland" became the owner of this award. ("Over In Gloryland") with blue-purple flowers.

Elegant Siberian irises are a godsend for landscape designers. To assess the decorative parameters of these plants, an original rating system was proposed in 1995. Three parameters are evaluated on a five-point scale: growth qualities, features of the growth apparatus and flowers. Clean, stiff, upright foliage throughout the season receives 5 points. A slightly arched but not collapsing bush is awarded 4 points, those cultivars that tend to break the characteristic shape of the bush at the end of the season earn a score of less than 3 points. Varieties with flowers soaring above the foliage get 5 points, and those with flowers located at the same level with the tips of the leaves - 3 points. If the flowers "hide" - cultivars earn 2 points.

Some varieties bloom in the first year after planting, and the second may "miss". Some cultivars can bloom for 3 or even 4 years. At different varieties flowering time may vary. In the first year after planting, the shade and shape of the flower may not meet the standards. This is especially true for terry cultivars. Sometimes they form semi-double or even simple flowers.

Agrotechnics of Siberian irises is simple. These plants can be called a culture for the lazy. You can not care for Siberian irises at all, and if you pay attention to them, they will delight abundant flowering and beautiful leaves.

"Belissima"
Photo Shakhmanova Tatiana

Location: in the southern regions, irises are planted so that during the daytime they are not in the sun, in the northern regions - in open places. Siberian irises are moisture-loving, but cannot stand constant waterlogging.

The soil: Siberian irises prefer dense, well-retaining moisture soils with a pH reaction of 5.5-6.9.

Landing: if it is supposed to grow irises in one place for 6-10 years, then the planting distance should be 60-100 cm. However, it must be borne in mind that some varieties grow very quickly, for example, "Fo Winds" ("Four Winds"), Others are much slower: Liberty Hills ("Liberty Hills")"Pa-De-De" ("Pas-De-Deux").

Care: feed irises with fertilizers that can acidify the soil (for example, potash and ammonium nitrate), twice per season: the first dressing - in early spring, after the snow melts, the second - at the time of the formation of peduncles or immediately after flowering.

"Butter and Sugar"
Photo by Mandriko Natalia

Reproduction: it is more desirable to divide Siberian irises, one to one and a half months after flowering, from mid-August to the end of October (depending on weather conditions). Before digging, shorten the leaves by 2/3 . The delenka should consist of 3-5, maximum 8 fans. If a planting material overdried, it must be soaked for two to four days in water. It is almost impossible to save a delenka that has rotted. The division of Siberian irises in the spring is undesirable.

Value for landscape design: plants are not afraid of severe frosts without a sufficient amount of snow, feel good in damp low places, successfully withstand spring floods and, at the same time, can grow magnificently in ordinary mixborders. Landscape architects around the world have long appreciated the plasticity of Siberian irises, as well as the beautiful shape of the bush, magnificent leaves and abundant flowering. The number of flower stalks in some varieties at the age of seven can approach 200! In addition, these plants do not require frequent transplantation. Over time, they grow into huge curtains with a diameter of 1.8 to 2.5 m and, with proper care, can bloom even at the age of 25.

Based on the article by Andrey Treshchenkov "Siberian Irises", a member of the club "Gardeners of Moscow". Photo by A. Kurlovich. // "In the world of plants" - 2002 - No. 2.

The ancient Greeks, paying tribute to the beauty and richness of the shades of this aristocratic plant, named it after the goddess of the rainbow they adored. In Russia, 60 species of the genus Iris grow, among which the Siberian iris is one of the most stable and unpretentious. Learn all about planting and caring for this flower crop outdoors. In the article you will find a description of the best varieties of iris and a photo of a flower in different parts of a romantic garden.

Siberian iris: biological features of the plant

Siberian irises, they are also Siberian irises, are a whole group of closely related species, the natural range of which covers vast expanses from the foothills of the Alps to Primorye, China and Japan. All of them are distinguished by several interesting features for the gardener:

• tallness and, as a result, showiness in any elements of landscape design;
• resistance to lodging, which eliminates the need for tying;
• decorative leaves after flowering, which allows you to leave them in the flower bed for the entire growing season;
• unpretentiousness up to complete undemanding care: they will be surrounded by weeds, but will not give up;
• convincing winter hardiness.

Siberian irises in a flower bed

The usual places of its wild growth are drained floodplains and light birch groves.

Choosing a place for irises

A place for iris is chosen taking into account two parameters. Firstly, this tall plant should not block other flowers, so the central part of the flower bed or the background of any decorative frame is well suited for iris. It perfectly decorates the shores of a garden pond, rockeries, looks against the background of spirea and jasmine bushes. If desired, you can create a flower garden of irises alone - an iridarium.

Secondly, the needs of the plant should be taken into account:

• loamy, non-alkaline, fairly fertile soil;
• constant hydration, necessary to preserve the decorative foliage and lay new peduncles;
• openwork penumbra in the hottest hours of the day.

Irises do well in partial shade.

It is important to remember that the Siberian iris should receive light and moisture in sufficient quantities, but without excess. Only in such conditions can you get the maximum flowering annually.

Attention! Before planting irises, dig up the corner intended for them on the bayonet of a shovel and select the rhizomes of weeds.

Iris Planting Technology

Irises are planted in two terms: April or August. They grow rapidly and occupy the territory: a curtain from one rhizome in 10 years can cover a circle with a diameter of 2 meters. For this reason, the distance between the holes is measured at least 60 cm.

Flower farms sell rhizomes of irises in containers or with an open root system. In the first case, the contents of the container are simply placed in the hole without deepening: the rhizome in the soil is already located at the desired depth.

If the rhizome is purchased without a container or obtained by dividing a curtain already existing in the garden, it is soaked in a root formation stimulator (kornevin, epin, heteroauxin) for 6-12 hours. Planted, deepening by 3-5 cm, no more.

The division of the iris bush

The planted rhizomes are shed with water, wait until the earth settles and sprinkle the soil until the surface is leveled. If leafy delenki were planted, the leaves are pressed with earth so that they do not lie down. To retain moisture, the soil is mulched with peat or pieces of bark.

Attention! Avoid mulching with hay: mice and other pests that gnaw on rhizomes can live under it.

Iris flower care

Although irises are unpretentious, they give the best flowering to a caring owner. In the first year or two of life, it is necessary to carefully weed. Mature plants will crowd out any weeds. A layer of mulch is desirable to maintain as the rhizomes do best in cool soil.

Young irises need watering with good wetting of the soil as needed. Twice a year, before the start of the growing season and before winter, they are provided with a complete complex fertilizer.

Drying flower stalks are removed systematically, and a complete cutting of foliage to a height of 10-15 cm is carried out just before the cold weather. AT middle lane plants winter well thanks to retracting roots, but if we are talking about latitudes closer to the Arctic Circle, then for the winter it is better to cover them with spruce branches and snow.

Siberian iris Rikuji Sakura

Siberian irises are immune to many diseases, but they can settle at the base of the leaves. molds. The affected areas are mercilessly cut out and burned, the sections are sprinkled with crushed coal, and the plants themselves are thinned out to improve ventilation.

Of the pests, cutworm caterpillars, which become active in the conditions of a dry spring, pose a threat. They can be collected by hand, and in the event of a massive appearance of caterpillars, they can be treated with Intavir or Zeta. If you do not want to use insecticides, you can use tinctures of garlic or wormwood.

Advice. If you want the scoop to fly around your garden on the tenth road, plant more calendula in it - this plant has an unbearable smell for many insects.

The best varieties of Siberian iris

The expressive iris flower resembles an exquisite orchid. Its six petals are arranged in two circles, with the upper and lower ones of different shapes, often curved, with a slight fringe. On the lower petals there is a spot of a contrasting color. This is a signal, a kind of "landing strip" for an insect that wants to feast on nectar.

The best variety of Siberian irises, which received the prestigious Dykes medal, was obtained in the UK. This is the Cambridge variety. purple flower, as if powdered with frost, at the base of each petal has a mysterious pattern in the form of a wide golden brown feather. Of the other varieties, the most attractive are:

• Baccarat - soft orange, with clove and lilac shades;
• Bebling Brook - bluish-lilac, like the sky at dawn;

Variety Bebling Brook

• Color Caanival - colors Ivory, with a bright orange signal surrounded by burgundy strokes;
• The first snow is like a swan with open wings;
• The song tree is yellow like a chicken, with a signal reminiscent of the yolk in a scrambled egg.

They often joke about the unpretentiousness of irises: "planted and forgot." And although this is not entirely true - the plant still requires careful observation and timely assistance - it is worth planting irises near the house. Gorgeous rich green foliage and spectacular fist-sized flowers will win the heart of any grower.

SIBERIAN IRIS. LANDING AND CARE

Siberian iris, Strawberry Fair variety

If, speaking of roses, we use the title of “queen” of the garden, then noble and stately irises can rightly be called kings. Tall plants from early spring begin to delight the eyes with light emerald greens. Large crested flowers, according to ancient Greek mythology, got their name from Iris, the goddess of the rainbow. The golden-haired messenger of the gods fluttered on her iridescent and transparent wings, carrying out their orders. In her honor, people decided to name magnificent irises, which in a variety of shades could compete with the rainbow itself.

Indeed, the beauty of the plant does not leave anyone indifferent. To grow irises like this, you need to know the features of planting and care for each type. Siberian irises , for example, make different demands than bearded ones, and do not accept content at all marsh iris .

Choosing a place for planting Siberian irises

One of the fundamental factors for the successful cultivation of Siberian irises in the garden is the competent choice of a place with a suitable level of illumination. In the southern regions, the plant must be planted so that it is hidden from the scorching sun at noon, to the north (including in the Moscow region) - on open heat place. In the light shade of trees and shrubs, at a small distance from the trunk, the natural species Siberian Iris can grow, in hybrids the decorative effect of flowering is reduced.

Siberian irises love water, but in moderation. They absorb the necessary moisture from the depth of the soil with their long rhizomes up to half a meter. Excess waterlogging can harm them, so when planting, lowlands and places with swampy soil where water stagnates should be avoided.

"Siberians" are one of the most unpretentious garden plants. Their tall peduncles do not need to be tied up, as they are not afraid of the winds, so they can be planted in an open place that is not protected from the wind. They grow on various soils The main thing is to ensure good drainage. Moreover, they themselves improve its structure, get rid of weeds and even heal, as they are not affected by many diseases of their relatives. The best for them will be loamy, organic-rich soil with a pH of 5.5-7.

Transplantation (planting) of Siberian irises

Siberian iris, Silver Girl variety

In one place, the plant can successfully vegetate up to 10 years, there are cases of flowering at the age of 25. However, it all depends on the characteristics of the care and plant variety. Therefore, with a decrease in the quality of flowering and an increasing density of plantings, Siberian rice should be transplanted, dividing into a bush into parts.

The planting of Siberian irises must be approached thoroughly, since it will be more difficult to correct mistakes. Deeply penetrating rhizomes need deeply cultivated fertile soil. The site is preliminarily dug up on a shovel bayonet, weeds are removed, compost or humus, mineral fertilizers are applied, if necessary, they improve the soil structure (add sand on heavy and wet, and clay on loose soils), normalize acidity (very acidic soils are limed, and alkaline soils are enriched with riding peat or sulfur is added, you can sprinkle with pine needles).

Separated rhizomes are best planted immediately at a sufficient distance from each other. It is determined depending on the characteristics of the variety, the speed and intensity of growth, as well as the planned growing time in one place. The longer it is planned to keep in one place, the greater the distance when planting, up to a meter for fast-growing varieties

Unpretentious "Siberians" tolerate transplantation well at any time of the warm season. However, it is better to do this at the very beginning of the spring growing season or in the second half of August, when annual growths and young roots have formed on the rhizome. Some flower growers transplant irises two weeks after flowering, when new roots are just starting to grow, and transplanting them will not hurt.

The delenka is broken off so that it has a fan of several leaves (at least 2) and a healthy, rot-free, developed rhizome with roots. If it is not possible to plant it immediately, then until planting it should be in a wet state, do not dry. The leaves are cut off by a third, very long roots can be shortened a little so that they enter the hole. Holes are made at a distance of 35 cm between plants (average value). The rhizome must be deepened, that is, it is covered from above with soil the height of a matchbox. Leaves in the form of a fan are pressed tightly with the ground so that they maintain a vertical position. Watered. The soil around is mulched with a 5-centimeter layer of peat. In hot weather, plants shade. In the first months after planting, soil moisture is constantly maintained.

Rooting takes a long time, so young plants may not bloom in the first year, bud formation is more likely to begin when a large bush develops.

On the video: Planting Siberian irises, their vegetative reproduction dividing the bush

Rules for planting Siberian irises after purchase

Planting rhizomes of hybrid Siberians purchased in bags at garden centers is best done under temporary shelter. Small delenki planted in this way will quickly grow roots and rhizomes, it will be easier to take root and overwinter, because shelter will help increase warm growing season.

If there are few rhizomes for planting, each can be planted in a pot and grown in it, providing regular watering and frost protection. If necessary, bring to the veranda, balcony. Later planted in a permanent place.

If there are no roots on the planting material, and the rhizome looks healthy, you should not worry. With proper planting and care, it will soon build them up.

If the roots are dry, before planting, the rhizome should be soaked in water for 5-48 hours in water. It is good to soak the rhizomes for 2-3 hours before planting in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or another growth stimulant.

At spring planting rhizome can be planted immediately in the ground, for summer months they will grow well and prepare for wintering.

Siberian Iris Care

After planting, the main task of caring for the plant is timely watering, periodic feeding with complex mineral and organic fertilizers, autumn pruning and shelter if necessary.

Watering and removing inflorescences

Siberian irises are watered about once a week, making sure that the water sinks deep into the soil, and not just wets its surface. The best time for watering is morning or evening, so that the hot sun does not immediately dry out the soil, and the plants have time to drink. With dry hot weather, especially in spring, you will have to water more often. Mass flowering, as a rule, begins in the first half of summer. At this point, the plant especially needs moisture. It also needs timely removal of wilted flowers. The seeds of Siberian irises are fast enough, but their development is completely unnecessary for the plant and will only take away extra strength. In addition, numerous self-seeding outward signs does not have hybrids.

Mulching

Mulching helps reduce the frequency of watering and avoid excess moisture. It also protects against weeds. The best option is peat, humus. You can take freshly cut grass or sawdust. Under the thickness of dry grass, mice can live and gnaw out rhizomes and buds, so it is not used.

top dressing

Watering with fertilizers is carried out twice - three times per season. The first time in early spring, always with a predominance of nitrogen components in the composition. Under the plants, you can additionally pour half a bucket or a bucket of humus. The second dressing is appropriate when the plant begins to form flower stalks and buds. In this case, a complex soluble fertilizer or organic in liquid form is used. After the end of flowering (in the third top dressing), the elements of phosphorus and potassium should prevail, and the nitrogen content should be minimal or completely absent. If acidification of the soil is required, it is better to use nitrate (ammonia, potassium) for top dressing.

Sometimes, in addition to or instead of the root, monthly foliar top dressing is used - a complex soluble fertilizer is sprayed over the leaves of the plant. It is impossible to get on the flowers, as well as with water when watering, from this they lose their attractiveness. It is very important not only not to fertilize the plant, but also not to overfeed it. Therefore, in each case, depending on the growing conditions and the appearance of plants, it is necessary to determine the methods and amount of fertilizer application. In the year of planting, irises are not fed at all, since the necessary nutrients are introduced when planting in the ground.

Preparing for winter

Closer to winter, when the leaves of the plant inevitably begin to lose their decorative effect, it is better to remove them as they turn yellow and wither, cutting them off at a height of 5 cm. Early pruning is harmful to the plant, since the planting flower buds feed on substances from the leaves. Leaves that have lost their green color, on the contrary, must be cut off to make it easier for young shoots to germinate in the spring.

Mulch in autumn upper layer soil with good humus. The rhizome of irises grows not only in depth and over time begins to protrude strongly on the surface. Mulch helps protect the roots from environmental stress and freezing. In addition, on young plantings, bulging of the soil is possible and, as a result, a violation of the root system, which prevents mulching.

Reproduction of Siberian irises

Siberian iris, Caesar's Brother variety

Propagation by seeds of garden irises is not practiced in everyday life (with the exception of Sino-Siberian irises), breeders do this. Like other irises, Siberian irises reproduce perfectly by dividing the bush.

For propagation, a part of an annual rhizome (growth) with a diameter of 2 to 2.5 cm is used, on which there are 3-4 fan-shaped leaves (sprouts). Such a plant will take root well, overwinter, but will bloom only after a season. A biennial growth with 6-8 leaves can be used. It will take longer to take root and during autumn planting it can freeze slightly without shelter. But the flowers will appear on it a year earlier.

Optimal time reproduction of Siberian irises:
in early spring, as soon as the first shoots break through. The advantage is that in autumn the plant will be able to grow a better rhizome and lay more buds, it will overwinter well, while planted in autumn young plant frost can damage.
in the second half of August, when the one-year growth used in reproduction reaches optimal sizes and has the ability to take root before frost and winter well.

Diseases

Siberian irises are resistant to many diseases that their relatives suffer from. Therefore, they can be safely planted where the “bearded” have grown for a long time and a lot of infection has accumulated in the soil.

For irises of all varieties, diseases of a fungal nature are most typical, which affect the base of leaf bundles. This happens most often due to an excess of moisture in combination with a cool temperature or its sudden changes during the day. For treatment and prevention, fungicidal preparations should be used. The affected areas are pre-cut out. If necessary, sprinkle with crushed coal. Plants are transplanted into healthy soil.

In some very rare cases, diseased plants are removed. For example, when scorching. Its symptoms - the leaves of the iris become red-brown, as if burned, later the roots and rhizomes die off.

A viral mosaic is contagious, therefore, when a mosaic appears in any part of the plant, it is dug up and destroyed, and the soil is replaced with a healthy one. In order not to be confused with other non-dangerous diseases, the affected area is cut out, treated with a fungicidal preparation and observed. If the mosaic appears again, the bush is removed.

If the soil has a strongly alkaline environment, then the iron may not be absorbed by the plant and, as a result, the leaves may turn yellow. In this case, it is recommended to apply an acidic mulch or spray and water with an iron chelate solution.

Pests

Scoop caterpillars (damage shoots), thrips (leaves dry), sawflies, slugs, snails, cruciferous fleas, ants are considered pests of Siberian irises, there is a possibility of aphids being affected. It is easy to notice it at the very base of the leaves. In this case, you can try to cope with folk methods: an infusion of garlic or green tomato leaves, a solution of water and soap (it is more convenient to use liquid) with the addition of any vegetable oil. If the problem becomes widespread and large-scale, then special insecticides cannot be dispensed with: Karbofos, Fury, Fufanon, Aktellik, etc. With their help, you can cope with other pests, but it is better to carry out preventive spring spraying when leaves appear. Basudin scattered on the soil will protect from caterpillars.
When not properly mulched, Siberian irises kill mice and voles that feed on their rhizomes.

Siberian irises in landscape design

Siberian irises in the flower garden

For landscape design in general and a separate garden in particular, the Siberian iris is of great value. It endures even the most frosty winters with weak snow cover, high soil moisture, and is also distinguished by an abundance of flower colors and a variety of their shapes. Irises are equally good both in group plantings and in single ones, creating large bushes in just a few years. Their leaves remain decorative from spring to late autumn. When planting Siberian irises with perennials, it is better to choose moisture-loving neighbors who also need watering. Daylilies can be their partners, aquilegia , bathing suit, lilies, aconites . Siberian irises are good near a pond, in natural-style gardens, on the border of a lawn. They are suitable for cutting. Unlike bearded irises, each flower is kept open not for 1, but for 3-4 days.

Siberian irises exquisitely beautiful, few people can remain indifferent to the bizarre lines of flowers, silky petals, as if painted by a mysterious artist. These irises do not freeze in winter, they can bloom magnificently for decades, rarely get sick. And the hybrid varieties that have appeared are also pleasing with a richness of color. If the petals of natural species are bluish-lilac, then varietal ones can be white, yellow, pink, purple, the color can even shimmer from one tone to another.

Siberian irises, despite their name, do not grow in Siberia, but in northern Italy, eastern Switzerland, the Baltic States, Western Belarus, in the high mountain meadows of the Caucasus and Turkey. We meet in the south of the Arkhangelsk region and in the Komi Republic. And in Siberia grows blood-red iris.

It was these two species that became the first parents of hybrid varieties of Siberian iris. Then there were many more crossings, as a result, about 800 hybrid varieties were bred. Given that selection work has been carried out since the middle of the last century, a significant result has been achieved.

If a wild-growing iris produces a straight peduncle bearing no more than three flowers, then among the hybrids there are varieties with branched stems that adorn up to seven flowers, which significantly lengthens the flowering period.

A classification of hybrid Siberian irises has already appeared, based on such features as color, shape and size of flowers, height of peduncles and flowering time.

Eyes, standards and fouls

The classic flower of the Siberian iris consists of three narrow petals directed upwards (standards) and three wide lower ones (falls). Near their base there is a contrasting spot - a peephole. In hybrids, all petals can be wide, and all of them are directed up or down. There are varieties with double flowers or with corrugated edges of the petals. The size of the flowers varies from 5 cm to 16 cm.

Breeders have worked a lot with the color of the petals. They can be of the same color, without spots or borders: white, blue, blue, purple, cream, yellow and even pink, crimson and wine red.

The upper and lower petals come in different tones of the same color or different color. For example, the top petals are white or blue, while the bottom petals are yellow, blue, pink, or purple. In some varieties, the color of the petals is even difficult to describe - several colors smoothly flow into each other.

The great advantage of Siberian irises is the strength of the stems, even at a height of 70-120 cm they do not need supports. Medium-sized irises (50-70 cm) are perhaps the most popular among summer residents, and dwarf (25-50 cm) and dwarf (15-20 cm) are often planted in parks.

Hybrid Siberian irises also differ in flowering time. There are varieties that bloom in June, but most bloom in July - August. Irises planted in the shade bloom later. Available remontant varieties that bloom twice a season: in spring and autumn.

Multicolored Iridarium

To give you an idea of ​​the beauty of hybrid irises, we have grouped the most popular varieties by color and present them to your attention.

FLOWERS WHITE: Butterfly Fountain, Belissima, Easter CDM, Snow Prince, White Lance, Forfold White, Harpswell Shantez, Shirley Choyce, Eol (domestic variety).

Belissima

YELLOW: Butte End Krim, Butte End Suga, Dane Susie, Dreamin Yellow, Isabelle, Moon Silk, Sunny Spells.

Butte End Suga

PINK Cast: Valley of Delight, Jax Hals, Dawn Walte, Mary Louise Michi, Roaring Jelly, Spackling Rose, Frostid Cranberry, Heath Wave.

Spackling Rose

PURPLE, RED VIOLET, WINE RED Cast: Anya Marie Troger, Jubilee Blackburn, Jemaykin Velwit, Jeweld Crown, Indy, Lady Vanessa, Ovil Faye, Plum Frolik, Sweet Surrander, Hubbard, Active Duty.

Lady Vanessa

BLUE, BLUE Cast: Vicky Ann, Lady Of Quality, Lilting Laura, May Love, Riverdance, Sally Carlin, Silver Edge, Super Ego, Steps In Blue, Tweed.

Vicki Ann

BLUE-PURPLE, PURPLE: Liberty Hills, Ruffle Velwit, Ruffles Round, Reprise, Sultans Ruby, Silver Edge, Super Ego, Hurry (domestic variety), Trim The Velwit, Tylwood, White Conner Swee, High Standards, Caesar Bryze, Shirley Pope, Eduard Riegel (domestic grade).

Ruffle Velwit

iridescent: Blackburn Jubilee, Book of Secrets, White Emba.

BI-COLOR: Dane Ballerine Dane, Shakers Price, Orientel Capital, Hantis.

By the way!

In Siberian irises planted in partial shade, flowering is delayed by a week compared to plants of the same variety growing in sunny place. It will not bloom in heavily shaded areas.

Choosing a place of residence

Since frequent transplants of Siberian irises are laborious and undesirable, before planting, you should consider where to settle them. For some reason, it is believed that they love the shade. In fact, these irises bloom best in places well lit by the sun. After all, in nature they are found along the edges of the forest, in forest glades, floodplain meadows. Therefore, in the garden it is necessary to find a place for them, sufficiently illuminated by the sun, at least half a day.

When planting in a very sunny place, trees and shrubs can become protection from burning rays, giving a slight shading. In this case, irises should be planted at a distance of 2 m from them, as their roots dry out the soil.

Siberian irises thrive in damp places, but on excessively moist soils, drainage is required for their planting. They can also grow in elevated dry places, only then they should be watered more often, especially during flowering. Surprisingly, these irises can grow even on a rocky hill. For such planting, low-growing varieties are suitable.

Since Siberian irises have strong stems, they can be planted in areas open to all winds. Bushes with powerful foliage and strong peduncles successfully resist the wind.

We select neighbors

In mixed flower beds(mixborders) Siberian irises thrive because they come from meadow species, where they grow together with daylilies, watersheds, acanitas, delphiniums and lilies. White looks especially good blue varieties Siberians on the background of orange swimsuits.

In complex flower beds you can plant Siberian irises in low places, the soil level in which is 10-15 cm lower than the rest of the surface. Thanks to this trick, the decorativeness of the flower garden will increase, since the height of Siberian irises will visually decrease. In addition, such plantings are very convenient for flood irrigation.

For group boarding only irises need to be selected in such a way that they all bloom at the same time and harmonize in color. Irises look beautiful different shades one color. In this case, the plant with the lightest flowers should be the tallest.

The Siberian iris bush with its green fountains of leaves looks good on the lawn. Against the background of a lawn, a group of 3-5 different varieties can also be formed. They can be combined with other perennials such as peonies, daylilies, hostas, oriental poppies.

Siberian irises look great against the background of the lawn, but it is important to ensure that the grass roots do not fit into the circle of irises and do not interfere with their growth.

Imagine how beautiful the composition will be with white or blue Siberian iris against the background of carved foliage and bright red oriental poppy flowers. Such a group is also very effective: dark blue Siberian iris, white-yellow peony Claire de Lune and connecting them with calico-colored lupine.

Siberian irises are simply indispensable for decorating ponds. Bright large flowers reflected in the water will not leave anyone indifferent. Their xiphoid leaves, reminiscent of reeds, look very natural on the shore of a pond. BUT high humidity air and soil creates the most favorable conditions for the growth and development of these beautiful flowers.

Soil preparation

Before planting, the soil must be prepared so that Siberian irises have enough nutrients in it for a long time. We remind you that in one place they can grow 12-15 years.

Preparation should begin with digging the ground and removing weeds, especially rhizomatous ones, such as sow thistle, creeping couch grass, snp, bindweed, horsetail, which cause a lot of trouble to irises. Despite the fact that the highly developed root system of these flowers forms a very dense turf, even the rhizomes of weeds climb into it and pierce it through and through. If there is a lot of weed grass, you can clean the area from it with a roundup. However, this should be done a year before planting flowers.

Siberian irises grow best in neutral or slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5-6.5). If on section easy loam and even rich in humus, then the earth is the best suited for their cultivation.

Acidic and heavy soils are improved with lime and sand, and peat is added to alkaline soils to increase acidity. Sandy land is the poorest. Both moisture and nutrients quickly leave it. It is not easy to adapt such a plot for growing Siberian irises, but it is possible by adding 1 bucket of clay and 2-3 buckets of nutrient compost or peat with humus per 1 m2.

In peaty soils, irises also do not grow well, since such areas are too waterlogged and very acidic, but Siberians can also be grown there by making drainage and adding lime (300-500 g / m2). clay soil improve by adding a mixture of river sand (13-15 kg / m2) and peat with humus or compost (1-2 buckets / m2) when digging.

What to look for when buying iris

The rhizomes of Siberian irises do not tolerate drying out. Therefore, when selling, they suffer most often, especially if the sellers did not take care of them. When buying, pay attention to the packaging of planting material. The best option is the rhizomes of irises in pots, and it is more reliable if they are grown in domestic nurseries, and not in greenhouses in Holland.

A good option if the rhizomes are placed in a plastic bag and sprinkled with sphagnum moss, which retains moisture well and is also a natural antiseptic.

Often, the rhizomes are simply sprinkled with peat - this is not the best option, since the roots often turn out to be overdried, which is why the irises do not take root well and get sick for a long time.

And of course, do not buy planting material from random people in spontaneous markets. The chances that they will have varieties of hybrid Siberian irises are not only minimal, but we can safely say that they are equal to zero.

Planting and transplanting

Planting Siberian irises is possible from the second half of August to mid-September and early May. They are transplanted in the summer, 2-3 weeks after flowering.

If planted later in the spring, there is a high risk of damage to the overgrown tender roots, because of which the plant will be sick for a long time. belated autumn planting also a waste of work. The fact is that for rooting, irises need a month with positive air temperatures.

Planting acquired rhizomes of Siberian irises is as follows. In well-dug soil, holes are made so deep that the roots do not bend when planting. The rhizomes are deepened by 5-7 cm, covered with fertile soil, compacted around the planted plants and watered.

By the way!

In the spring, with early thaws, irises can be squeezed out to the surface. In this case, they should be deepened in a timely manner.

You can plant in an accelerated way. This is done as follows: the blade of the shovel is driven vertically to the full depth, then the stalk of the shovel is taken 30-40 degrees to the side and the Siberian iris is planted in the gap formed. After that, they pull out a shovel, fall asleep and compact the earth around the roots.

After watering, cover the soil around the plants with peat, compost or mowed grass (layer 3-5 cm). This mulch will protect the irises from losing moisture in the soil. If the planting was carried out in hot weather, new plants should be shaded from the scorching sun. To do this, it is enough to stick branches with leaves into the ground in front of the plants.

If an iris bush growing in the garden needs to be transplanted, they are waiting for the end of flowering. After the flower stalks are cut off, so that the plant does not waste nutrients on seed maturation. After 2-3 weeks, the bush is dug up, the roots and leaves are cut by a third and planted in a previously prepared place, deepening by 5-7 cm.

When planting several plants on the lawn, the distance between them is 60-70 cm. In mixborders, irises can be planted after 40-50 cm and even after 25 cm. However, in the latter case, every second plant will have to be transplanted after 2-3 years.

Advice!

In summer, an indicator for transplanting irises is the appearance of new roots. Usually they form 2 weeks after the plant has faded and rested a little.

By the way!

If the roots of irises purchased by mail have dried up during shipment, soak them for several hours in water with a growth stimulator. You can leave them in the water even overnight.

Watering is required

For the successful cultivation of Siberian irises, it is necessary high humidity air and soil, because in natural conditions they usually grow in wet meadows, where it is damp in spring and cool during their flowering.

However, often watering irises can harm them. The fact is that water has a pH above 7, which means that it is highly likely that it will gradually alkalize the soil. If the color of the leaves has turned light green with yellowness, this is a signal that the soil acidity is above 7.5. In such a situation, nitrogen becomes difficult for the plant to access and the foliage begins to turn yellow. To prevent this, before planting Siberian irises, add sulfur to the soil or water the plants with an aqueous solution of ferrous sulfate (30 g per 10 l of water).

This is easily achieved by mulching the soil with a layer of freshly cut grass, pine or spruce needles. Such a simple agricultural technique will not only benefit the plants, but also save you from weeds, you do not have to weed.

Advice!

When feeding irises, do not exceed the dosage - an excess of nutrients can lead to excessive development of the leaf apparatus at the expense of flowering. Young iris plants do not require additional nutrition at all.

What feeding is such flowering

At the beginning of spring, when the snow has not yet completely melted, and the bushes of Siberian irises are already turning green, it is necessary to carry out first feeding full mineral fertilizer, scattering fertilizer around the bushes. When using Kemira-universal, you will need 60-80 g per plant. The fertilizer must be carefully planted into the soil with a chopper so that its granules do not fall on the growing shoots and do not damage them.

Second top dressing Siberians are given during the formation of buds so that the flowering is lush and long, and the flowers grow large. Fertilizer can be used both organic (compost, slurry, fermented grass) and complete mineral.

The third time irises are fed after flowering - after all, they gave so much strength to bloom magnificently. This time, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are used, in which nitrogen is present in minimal quantities (or better without it at all), for example, such as autumn kemira universal (10-15 g / m2).

Protection against diseases and pests

Siberian irises, unlike bearded ones, get sick very rarely. Yet sometimes, especially in rainy years, the base of the leaf bundles is affected rust. The disease can be stopped by treating the bushes with a 0.4-0.5% solution of copper oxychloride, sold under the name "abiga peak".

Very rarely, bushes of Siberian irises are also affected by a disease such as scorch: the foliage begins to turn brown, the ends of the leaves dry out and bend. The main means of prevention is the timely division of the bush into several parts, followed by transplantation to another place. For treatment, irises are sprayed with a 0.6-0.8% solution of sulfur suspension. In case of severe damage, the plant is dug up and burned, and the earth is shed with potassium permanganate, bleach or formalin.

Sometimes butterfly caterpillars: scoop winter and iris, wintering in the ground, in the spring eat away the bases of flower shoots, which leads to their yellowing, and sometimes death. For prevention, in early May, the plant and the soil around it are sprayed with a 10% solution of karbofos. If caterpillars appear, kinmix is ​​used against them (1 ampoule per 8 liters of water), after treating the plant, 2-3 cm of soil is removed, replaced with fresh and spilled with dissolved kinmix, spraying is repeated a week later.

It happens, settles in leaf bundles gladiolus thrips. The color of such leaves becomes brown, and they begin to dry. Tobacco infusion helps to get rid of this pest: 400 g of tobacco dust is poured into 10 liters of water, insisted for two days, filtered and, adding 40 g to the solution laundry soap, sprayed plants. Processed twice with a weekly interval.

Another invader - iridescent sawfly. The insect itself is small, but its larvae reach 2 cm in length and are very voracious, often after them only the central veins remain from the leaves. They get rid of them by spraying plants with insecticides - you can use the kinmix recommended above - however, if only a few plants are affected, it is easier to cut their leaves along with caterpillars at a height of 10-12 cm and burn them.

By the way!

Yellowing of foliage in Siberians is not a disease, but a consequence of a lack of available iron. In this case, you need to spray the leaves and water the soil with iron chelate. Mulching with coniferous litter also gives good results.

Advice!

After flowering

Faded stems are cut, and as low as possible. Removal of peduncles and phosphorus-potassium top dressing will help to better lay flower buds, which means lush bloom next year.

For successful wintering in late autumn, the leaves are cut at a height of 12-15 cm. Do not do this too early. Green leaves store nutrients, which means they also contribute to the laying of flower buds. This is why early leaf cutting can lead to reduced flowering the next year.

Dividing, multiplying

Hybrid Siberian irises are propagated by dividing the rhizomes, since the seeds do not transmit varietal features plants. However, natural species can be propagated by seed. Moreover, they often self-pollinate. This is both good and bad. Well, because thanks to self-sowing, Siberian irises are not threatened with extinction: the seeds, having fallen to the ground in autumn, germinate in the spring. But in the garden, self-seeding of species irises planted along with hybrid varieties, is a disadvantage, as it clogs valuable specimens with rootless offspring.

When dividing the bush, the plant is dug up, shaken off the adhering earth and the rhizome is torn apart. It is easiest to divide 3-4-year-old irises, older and older bushes are more difficult to divide. The roots of such plants are so intertwined that they form a large dense turf that cannot be torn apart by hand. Only by using a sharp shovel and knife, it is possible to divide the old bush.

You can get planting material without digging up the plants. To do this, the soil is raked from one side of the bush and a leaf bundle with a piece of rhizome is separated with a shovel, the cut is sprinkled with crushed charcoal, the bush is covered with earth, and the delenka is planted in a pre-prepared place.

The smallest planting unit should have a one-year shoot with a bunch of leaves and roots. However, such delenki bloom only after 2 years, so only very valuable varieties are divided in this way. The usual planting unit consists of 3-4 shoots with roots and leaves. At the delenka, the roots are immediately cut, leaving 5-7 cm, and the leaves are 2/3 of their length. This is done to reduce the evaporation of moisture.

For Siberian irises, the most important thing is not to overdry the rhizomes. Therefore, they are immediately planted, in extreme cases they are added dropwise before planting. If delenki are promised to someone, they are packed in moss, wrapped in plastic wrap and pierced in several places to allow air to reach the roots. When sending the roots of Siberians should not dry out, but waterlogging is also undesirable - this can lead to the development of diseases and rot. An important point is the time of division and landing. Although Siberian irises can be transplanted at any time (spring, summer, autumn), specific climatic conditions should still be taken into account. I think that it is best to plant delenki in early autumn, leaving one month for rooting without frost.

Mulching the soil around Siberian plantings is another secret to success. You can mulch with grass clippings, pine needles, bark, and even straw.

By the way!

The most painful place of Siberian irises is their rhizomes, which do not tolerate overdrying. If you keep them from drying out, then the landing will be successful.

Advice!

When sowing natural species of Siberians, you should know the following. Seeds remain viable for 2-4 years. You can sow them in spring and autumn. To accelerate the development of plants, they are sown in March for seedlings, and after the appearance of the third leaf in seedlings, they are transplanted into the ground. Seedlings bloom in the third year.