What not to put in compost. What not to add to compost

To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other points of water intake, and greatly simplifies the installation process. Flexible piping is also used during installation gas equipment. It differs from similar devices for water in manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.

Characteristics and types

Flexible hose for plumbing is a hose of different lengths, made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Due to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily accepts desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, the upper reinforcing layer is designed in the form of a braid, which is made of the following materials:

• aluminum. Such models withstand no more than +80 ° C and retain functionality for 3 years. At high humidity aluminum braid is prone to rust.
• Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water supply is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 °C.
• Nylon. Such a braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 ° C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.

Nut-nut and nut-nipple pairs are used as fasteners, which are made of brass or stainless steel. Devices with different indicators allowable temperature vary in braid color. Blue are used to connect to a pipeline with cold water, and red - with hot.

When choosing a water supply, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that excludes the release of toxic components by rubber during operation.

Features of gas connections

When connecting gas stoves, speakers and other types of equipment also use flexible piping. Unlike models for water, they have yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixing, end steel or aluminum fittings are used. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:

• PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
• synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
• bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

Holding "Santekhkomplekt" offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and fixtures for its connection to communications. The range is represented by products and materials of well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, a personal manager is assigned to each client. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without any hassle.

At the end of the technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement of the sewer system in apartment building, a production building, as well as in a private household, it is required to test the system involved by the forced flow method. This task was applied to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewer part involved and the act of testing the internal sewerage systems and drains will be material evidence of work on the acceptance of the object.

Visual inspection should be accompanied by entering into the act of testing internal sewerage and drain systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the appendix of the D series, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 "Internal sanitary systems of the building", recently a new one has been applied updated working version according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.

High-quality and reliable gutter system Galeco, made of laminated steel, is the key to the success and prosperity of the building, which involves the operation of a drainage system. According to the general design, the Galeko drain has one characteristic. A feature is the presence of gutters, the edges of which are optimally concave inward, thus during the passage of heavy rainfall, water will not splash and overflow over the edges. The modern gutter Galeco is an innovative development that is able to withstand any mechanical damage and resists negative impacts ultraviolet rays.

WHAT CAN AND SHOULD NOT BE PUT IN COMPOST organic farming is constantly gaining momentum, while this method of working with the land implies the mandatory use of compost, which serves as a replacement for the entire set of purchased fertilizers. As I have already noted, it is far from immediately possible for many gardening neophytes to make a truly high-quality compost, but over the years, experience and practice do their job and most gardeners become true experts in composting. We can say that composting is 50% science and 50% art. We can say that the final nutritional value of this fertilizer is decisively influenced by its component composition, that is, those substances and materials that you add to it during the preparation process. All materials put into compost can be conditionally divided into nitrogen-containing and carbon-containing. The expediency of such a separation is due to the fact that composting works best when elements such as nitrogen and carbon are present in the compost heap in a certain proportion (their optimal ratio will be discussed in one of the following posts). So, from nitrogen-containing materials to compost will go: Green grass without roots, fresh green leaves, freshly weeds, green corn stalks and leaves, apple carrion (if it is not affected by rot), etc. Lake and river silt. Trimmings of fish, meat and medium-sized bones. Such additives are quite to the taste of soil microorganisms, but keep in mind that they also attract various pests, in particular rats and mice. Therefore, if you want to put them in compost, then they need to be sprinkled on top with a dense layer of earth. Dung slurry. Bird, horse, cow and other types of manure. The soil. Fermented grass without dilution, as well as the thick of the herbal infusion, left after feeding the plants. There are different opinions about whether to add human waste to the compost heap. Some avoid adding these things for fear of spreading worms, but many don't take the threat too seriously and consume vegetables grown in their own faeces for years. Although I believe that if a cow refuses to eat grass that grows on cow cakes, then we should not do this either. A list of carbonaceous materials that will work well in compost includes: Dry grass with roots, dry weeds, withered last year's leaves, dried corn stalks and leaves, branch clippings, etc. Straw, dry hay, peat. Wood sawdust. Although this component does not add nutritional value to the compost and decomposes poorly, it can still and should be put in the compost heap. The benefit of sawdust lies in the fact that they give the compost greater friability and absorb a large number of moisture, contributing to its better preservation. Paper, cardboard, old plywood. These materials must be properly moistened with water before laying in the compost heap. A great addition to the preparation of compost will be some food and household waste: eggshell, coffee grounds and tea leaves, fruit and vegetable waste, withered flowers, spoiled animal feed, etc. However, I do not advise you to throw citrus peels into the compost, as it contains natural preservatives in the form essential oils, which will inhibit the maturation of this fertilizer. The nutritional composition of the compost will also improve significantly if you add some lime, ash and mineral fertilizers to it. There are, however, a number of substances that are not recommended for compost production: Leftovers from cooked food Weeds with a strong root system (especially goutweed, couch grass). Sick plants. Horticultural chemicals. Remains of building materials. Plastic bags. Diseased leaves and stems of plants can only be composted if you are absolutely sure that the combustion process has been initiated in the compost heap, that is, the temperature inside it has risen to 60 degrees and above (otherwise it is better to burn the affected tops for ashes). However, there is an exception here: some pathogens are highly viable and able to survive even under heating conditions. In addition, the layers of the compost heap can warm up unevenly, and in some places the temperature will not be high enough to destroy all foci of infection. It is strongly not recommended to compost plants that are sick with clubroot, rotten root crops, celery and legumes, on the surface of which a white dense fungal coating or black balls are visible. Such tops are also burned, and the ash can then be used to make compost. Before laying in the compost, all its components (especially coarse elements) must be crushed, as this will greatly accelerate its maturation. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that large segments (for example, tree bark or branches) will contribute to better air circulation inside the compost heap, without continuous access to which full combustion cannot be initiated. In a word, it is important to observe the correct ratio of large and small components, which is determined more empirically, and not on the basis of any strict recommendations. Material from the Internet.

Organic fertilizers for plants and soil are safe substances that do not allow the soil to dry out and deplete. Top dressing is subject to the soil that annually produces a crop. The principle of operation of organics is simple: the whole process takes place with the participation of soil microorganisms and earthworms, as well as insects and their larvae.

In a word, in order for the activity of bacteria not to stop, organic matter is needed, and in order for organic matter to grow, bacteria are needed. In addition, you need to know what not to put in the compost so that microbial activity continues throughout the process.

Humic acids are the main substance that gives high performance fertility. Humates are produced by the action of digestive tract enzymes of microorganisms and earthworms.

The work of the latter is especially useful. Eukaryotes secrete coprolites into the soil, which, because of this, becomes several times more nutritious. Plants assimilate microelements several times faster and better, which affects crop yields: it increases by at least 50%.

Compost components

Raw material for compost production own site are all kinds of organics. These are dry fallen leaves, vegetable and fruit peelings, cut tree branches, mowed green grass or hay, dry straw, paper or cardboard, cattle dung or bird droppings.

All components are divided into nitrogen and carbon-containing. It is necessary to distinguish them in order to correctly lay down the components and correctly calculate the amount of one and the other ingredients.

If, for example, you try to make fertilizer from nitrogen substances alone, then the compost heap will begin to rot and exude a stench. The result is silo. In the worst case, the entire pile will have to be disposed of.

The increased content of carbonaceous substances leads to the fact that in vivo, without the use of accelerators, fertilizers will have to wait 2 years. This is not beneficial, as plant and soil nutrition is required annually.

The correct ratio of substances is when 1 nitrogen part accounts for 3 parts of carbon-containing components.

Nitrogen feedstock:

• manure;

• fresh grass;

• raw cleaning;

• tops of vegetables.

Carbon feedstock:

• straw;

• hay;

• paper;

• dry foliage;

• coniferous litter - be careful with the amount, since such an additive increases acidity;

• woody branches.

To make the composting process faster, large particles must be crushed before laying.

And in order to get fertilizer after 1.5 - 2 months, it is necessary to use biodestructors and properly care for the composter.

Fertilizer preparation methods

There are two different ways making compost at home. In a sealed composter without oxygen and in an open compost heap. In the first case, anaerobic bacteria will do all the work.

These are microorganisms that do not like sunlight, high temperature and die under the influence of air. If they are used to decompose components, the compost heap must be hermetically sealed and not opened until the fertilizer has matured.

The aerobic method does not require an airtight container, but is more labor-intensive, since in the process it is necessary to shovel the mixture several times in order to ventilate it. With such care, bacteria multiply faster and more intensively process plant residues. Moisture levels must be monitored so that the compost heap does not dry out.

Vermicompost

This method of preparing fertilizer is the fastest, since, in addition to bacteria, plant residues are processed by Californian red worms.

This type is the most efficient reproduces 500 times faster than ordinary worms, but in order to produce a huge number of cocoons, they need to eat a lot. If conditions external environment correspond to the needs of this type, then the finished fertilizer can be made not only for yourself, but also for sale.

Conditions of detention:

• warm room with a temperature of 18 - 20 degrees.

• Equipped pile with wet raw materials and air access.

• A constant supply of plant residues for nutrition.

Vermicompost is the most nutritious organic fertilizer, which is required three times less than other dressings. Absorbed in full a short time, so it does not have time to be washed out by rains.

Where to set up a composter

The compost heap box should be kept out of direct sunlight, which can inhibit bacterial growth. It can be the shade of a tree or a canopy with a roof. It is desirable that the box be with a lid so that precipitation does not get inside.

The bottom of the composter is concreted or left open. For a stationary collar, it is better to make a solid floor, since during the ripening process a nutrient fluid flows out, which must be preserved, since it is rich in nitrogen. As an option - lined with straw, peat or soil.

The box can be made independently from boards, mesh or slate, or you can buy a ready-made container. In the first case, it is easier to take care of the compost, but only the aerobic composting method is available. IN plastic container lay raw materials for both aerobic and anaerobic decay. But it is more difficult to care for, because the container has a small hatch.

How to properly lay a compost heap

To begin with, the components are prepared and crushed to increase the area of ​​penetration of bacteria. Green freshly cut grass it is recommended to dry in the air to reduce the amount of nitrogen. This will prevent rotting and speed up the ripening time.

Lay at the bottom first soil layer about 30 cm. Next, the layers are alternated so that 3 parts of the carbon-containing components account for one layer of nitrogen. It is recommended to pour each layer with a solution of biological fertilizer - bought in a store or prepared with your own hands - for this, yeast and sour-milk products are used.

For aerobic composting, the ingredients are placed in a loose manner, without being tamped down, so that there is air between them and bacteria can multiply.

Video: How to make weed compost

After laying the components in 2 - 3 days, it is necessary to shovel the pile. The temperature at this point is already beginning to rise due to the release of gases. Then turn the mixture every two weeks. If necessary, pour water over, but do not flood, as this will lead to the death of microorganisms. The mixture should be slightly damp.

Do's and Don'ts in Compost

The question that most of all interests summer residents is what can be put in compost. You can lay all the organic matter, but make sure that it is not affected by the fungus, otherwise the disease will spread along the site along with the fertilizer.

Which plant tops should not be composted?

• cabbage put in the compost if it is not damaged by the keel - outgrowths on the roots;

• tomatoes and potatoes susceptible to phytophthora disease, which causes darkening of the leaves, if the tops are healthy, then it can be used as a raw material;

• weeds you can’t put them in compost if they are collected with seeds - they are pre-soaked in water so that the shell becomes soft, then the bacteria can destroy it;

• gout roots pre-crushed so that the plant could not survive and germinate in the composter.

Which tops cannot be put into compost is determined by their appearance. The greens should be clean, and the root area without darkened areas.

What not to put in the compost heap:

• glass- it is not processed by bacteria;

• rubber– can cause the death of microorganisms;

• faux fabric scraps- they are also not digested;

• faeces of domestic cats and dogs, as there is a risk of contracting toxoplasmosis;

• meat waste and fat– it attracts flies and other pests;

• painted boards or sawdust with chemicals;

• glossy paper- it is treated with heavy metal chemicals.

Not suitable for processing for fertilizer construction garbage- drywall, laminate and plastic.

Questions that cause controversy among gardeners:

• Can you put it in compost? potato peelings? You can not even grind if EM preparations are used. The exception is tubers affected by the fungus.

• Can strawberry leaves be composted? Berries are also exposed to diseases, but if everything is in order with the bushes, then the prunings are laid in a pile.

There is often debate about whether to bring in meat and fish waste. It is better not to do this, as rotting meat attracts insects that lay eggs. Fish waste often contains helminth larvae. Such compost can infect the entire soil on the site.

Astrakhan tomatoes ripen remarkably lying on the ground, but you should not repeat this experience in the Moscow region. Our tomatoes need support, support, a garter. My neighbors use all sorts of pegs, garters, loops, ready-made plant supports, and mesh fences. Each method of fixing the plant in an upright position has its own advantages and " side effects". I'll tell you how I place tomato bushes on trellises, and what comes of it.

Flies - a sign of unsanitary conditions and carriers infectious diseases hazardous to both humans and animals. People are constantly looking for ways to get rid of nasty insects. In this article, we will talk about the Zlobny TED brand, which specializes in fly protection products and knows a lot about them. The manufacturer has developed a specialized line of drugs to get rid of flying insects anywhere quickly, safely and without extra costs.

summer months- flowering time of hydrangeas. This beautiful deciduous shrub is luxuriously fragrant with flowers from June to September. Florists willingly use large inflorescences for wedding decors and bouquets. To admire the beauty flowering bush hydrangeas in your garden, you should take care of the proper conditions for it. Unfortunately, some hydrangeas do not bloom year after year, despite the care and efforts of gardeners. Why this happens, we will tell in the article.

Every summer resident knows that plants need nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium for full development. These are the three main macronutrients, the deficiency of which significantly affects appearance and yield of plants, and in advanced cases can lead to their death. But at the same time, not everyone understands the importance of other macro- and microelements for plant health. And they are important not only in themselves, but also for the effective absorption of the same nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

garden strawberry, or strawberry, as we used to call it, is one of the early fragrant berries that summer generously endows us with. How we rejoice in this harvest! In order for the "berry boom" to repeat every year, we need to take care of the care of the berry bushes in the summer (after the end of fruiting). Bookmark flower buds, from which ovaries will form in spring, and berries in summer, begins approximately 30 days after the end of fruiting.

Spicy pickled watermelon is a savory snack for fatty meat. Watermelons and watermelon rinds have been pickled since time immemorial, but the process is laborious and time consuming. According to my recipe, it’s easy to cook pickled watermelon in 10 minutes, and a spicy snack will be ready by the evening. The watermelon marinated with spices and chili is stored in the refrigerator for several days. Be sure to keep the jar in the refrigerator, not only for the sake of preservation - chilled, this snack is just licking your fingers!

Among the variety of species and hybrids of philodendrons, there are many plants, both gigantic and compact. But not a single species competes in unpretentiousness with the main modest - blushing philodendron. True, his modesty does not concern the appearance of the plant. Reddening stems and cuttings, huge leaves, long shoots, forming, although very large, but also strikingly elegant silhouette, look very elegant. Philodendron blushing requires only one thing - at least minimal care.

Thick Chickpea Soup with Vegetables and Egg is an easy recipe for a hearty first course inspired by Oriental cuisine. Similar thick soups cooked in India, Morocco, countries South-East Asia. The tone is set by spices and seasonings - garlic, chili, ginger and a bouquet of spicy spices, which can be assembled to your liking. It is better to fry vegetables and spices in melted butter (ghee) or mix olive oil and butter, it's certainly not the same, but similar in taste.

Plum - well, who does not know her ?! She is loved by many gardeners. And all because it has an impressive list of varieties, it surprises excellent harvests, pleases with its diversity in terms of ripening and huge selection color, shape and taste of fruits. Yes, somewhere she feels better, somewhere worse, but almost no summer resident refuses to grow her on her plot. Today it can be found not only in the south, in middle lane, but also in the Urals, in Siberia.

Many decorative and fruit crops, except for drought-resistant ones, suffer from the scorching sun, and conifers in the winter-spring period - from sunlight, enhanced by reflection from snow. In this article we will talk about a unique preparation for protecting plants from sunburn and droughts - Sunshet Agrosuccess. The problem is relevant for most regions of Russia. In February and early March, the sun's rays become more active, and the plants are not yet ready for new conditions.

“Each vegetable has its own time”, and each plant has its own optimal time for landing. Anyone who has experienced planting is well aware that the hot season for planting is spring and autumn. This is due to several factors: in spring, the plants have not yet started to grow rapidly, there is no sweltering heat, and precipitation often falls. However, no matter how hard we try, circumstances often develop in such a way that landings have to be carried out at the very height of summer.

Chile con carne translated from Spanish- chili with meat. This is a Texan and Mexican dish whose main ingredients are chili peppers and minced beef. In addition to the main products, there are onions, carrots, tomatoes, and beans. This red lentil chili recipe is delicious! The dish is fiery, burning, very satisfying and amazingly tasty! You can cook a large pot, arrange in containers and freeze - a whole week will be a delicious dinner.

Cucumber is one of the most beloved garden crops of our summer residents. However, not all and not always gardeners manage to get really good harvest. And although growing cucumbers requires regular attention and care, there is a little secret that will significantly increase their yield. It's about about pinching cucumbers. Why, how and when to pinch cucumbers, we will tell in the article. An important point The agricultural technique of cucumbers is their formation, or type of growth.

Now every gardener has the opportunity to grow absolutely environmentally friendly, healthy fruits and vegetables in own garden. The microbiological fertilizer Atlant will help in this. It contains helper bacteria that settle in the zone of the root system and begin to work for the benefit of the plant, allowing it to actively grow, stay healthy and give high yields. Usually, many microorganisms coexist around the root system of plants.

Summer is associated with beautiful flowers. Both in the garden and in the rooms you want to admire the luxurious inflorescences and touching flowers. And for this it is not at all necessary to use cut bouquets. In the range of the best indoor plants many beautiful flowering species. They are in the summer when they get the most bright lighting and the optimal duration of daylight hours, can outshine any bouquet. Short-lived or just annual crops look like living bouquets.

Compost can significantly improve the soil of any type: clay soil will become more crumbly, sandy soil will retain water better. In addition, compost is used to level trenches and pits. Compost attracts all kinds of living organisms that improve the texture of the soil, converting organic matter into nutrients easily digestible by plants.

But compost is not cheap, especially since it needs to be brought to the site, which entails additional expenses. That is why economical owners create special compost pits.

Every family has a lot of organic waste. Of course, you can put it in a plastic bag and throw it in the trash can. But why, if this waste can benefit the site if it rots in the compost pit.

Compost pit device

The construction of a compost pit largely depends on the purpose for which it is created. If the residents of the dacha simply have nowhere to throw organic garbage, and after three years there is a desire to get valuable fertilizer, then the compost pit should be equipped according to the most simplified scheme.

First you need to dig a ditch fifty to sixty centimeters wide and about half a meter deep. Line the bottom of the ditch with weeds, dry leaves, and other plant debris. Food waste can be dumped directly into the pit and immediately covered with pre-prepared dry foliage and weeds. In this case, the gardener does not risk breeding a cloud of flies and prevents the appearance of an unpleasant odor.

Of course, for compost pit equipment of this type you should choose a place on the site so that the pit is not conspicuous, located at some distance from the fences of neighboring sites.

compost pit closed type- it's much more complex structure. The dimensions of the pit must fully comply with the so-called "two-year cycle" rule. That is, the pit should be divided into two parts, one of which is intended for old compost, and the other for regular replenishment.

Closed-type pits are equipped with a lid, which is removed when it is necessary to collect humus.

For the preparation of high-quality compost, the use of weeds is undesirable: they can multiply and “stuff” the soil mass with harmful seeds. Earthworms should easily penetrate into a closed-type pit, otherwise the compost will “ripen” much longer. You should also take care of the appearance of the structure, making it in such a way that it decorates the site, and does not disfigure it.

The main components of a closed compost pit are:

1. Pipes.
2. Plinth.
3. Columns.
4. Area.
5. Roof with frame.
6. Removable cover or hinged "doors".

Before constructing a closed-type pit, specialists level the site, remove upper layer soil. Then they break through a ditch up to seventy centimeters deep, three meters long and two meters wide. You can not do without the construction of formwork, pouring walls cement mortar or concrete about ten centimeters thick.

How to prepare concrete for closed pit equipment

It would seem that it is not difficult to make concrete correctly. However, in practice, many make mistakes, the correction of which takes a lot of time. A closed-type compost pit is a complex structure and its construction should be approached with all seriousness: it is necessary to strictly observe the proportions of the components necessary to prepare the solution.

So, for concrete you will need: river sand, gravel, cement, water. To determine the most appropriate proportions of all components, you need to pour gravel into a ten-liter bucket, shake well. Then slowly add water with a measuring container. If five liters of water fit in a bucket, this means that the voidness of the gravel is fifty percent and you need to adhere to the proportions of two to one, that is, add half a bucket of sand to a ten-liter bucket of gravel.

It is better to pour water into the solution as little as possible. When there is a lot of water, numerous small holes appear on the surface of the concrete when it dries.

Perhaps more important correct selection components - high-quality mixing. For these purposes, it is good to use a construction vibrator, but in the absence of this tool, the work can be done manually.

Do it yourself

Building a compost pit with your own hands is not as difficult as it seems. Moreover, all the work can be done in such a way that the design will in no way interfere with either the neighbors or the summer residents themselves.

Here is a great way to build such a compost pit.

First of all, sections of pipes should be installed in the corners of the pit, while the racks should be made from ten by ten centimeters timber.

The lower part of the bar should be sharpened, fitting it to the diameter of the pipes. It will be useful to impregnate the bars and pipes with a special bioprotective component.

Drive the bars into the pipes. Now you should fill the upper parts with longitudinal and peppered boards, which will serve as the walls of the pit.

It is best to fix the boards with self-tapping screws and "corners" made of metal. After the boards are installed, the crate can be installed.

The resulting structure must be painted with acrylic paint.

The main thing to consider is that the diameter of the pipe must be larger than the cross section of the timber used for the racks. As a rule, a compost pit is made one meter high. Higher and more massive buildings make it difficult to dig up the compost and extract it.

Many make a removable cover in the form of the most ordinary plywood shield, hinged to back wall buildings. To keep the lid open, you need to make special props, for example, pieces of a bar, metal rods or thick branches.

The compost ripens better with the lid closed, the fertilizer should only occasionally be allowed to “breathe”.

What can and cannot be thrown into the compost pit

It is necessary to immediately decide what can be thrown into the compost pit and what is not.

Can:

1. Raw fruits, vegetables, cereals, berries.
2. Straw, hay, grass.
3. Foliage.
4. Ash.
5. Bark, branches, roots of shrubs.
6. Needles.
7. Shredded paper.
8. Sawdust.
9. Manure from cows and horses (but not fresh, but at least second-year).

It is forbidden:

1. Bones.
2. Excrement of cats, dogs and other domestic animals.
3. Potato and tomato tops.
4. Leaves treated with herbicides.
5. Inorganic waste: plastic, rubber, iron, synthetics, etc.

For successful formation of compost, high looseness and moisture are necessary. To do this, you should regularly water the pit, or cover it with a film, creating a kind of greenhouse effect.

For greater looseness of the compost, from time to time you should turn the mass with a pitchfork.

There are those who do not want to spend time and effort on building a compost pit, but prefer to put organic remains in one place, gradually forming a heap. Of course, this method is not the most aesthetic, but in terms of functionality, it can be quite viable if you water the pile with special EO preparations and cover it with dark material to speed up the formation of compost.

plastic containers

This option is in a single bundle with a simple compost pit and is great for people who do not want to spend extra money. A plastic container minimizes the chance of compost getting into drinking water(for example, in a well). However, in this case, you will have to regularly water the compost with preparations that accelerate the decomposition process. organic components, and besides, constantly "settle" earthworms in the container.

Some summer residents equip compost heaps as follows: they simply put on the ground a large polyethylene film, and organic residues are dumped on it. They explain the use of the film by the fact that with it the useful elements of the compost will not be washed out. In fact, these compost heaps are the worst. Compost isolated from the ground rots much more slowly, moisture from it evaporates too quickly.

Whatever type of compost pit you decide to build, you can be sure that you are doing an exceptionally useful thing for your site. Plus, having equipped a compost pit, you can no longer worry about where to put food leftovers, which is especially convenient if you live in the country all the time.