Herbaceous peony - varieties of peonies, planting peonies and caring for peonies. Herbaceous peonies: cultivation and reproduction

Varieties and hybrids herbaceous peony are always a decoration of the garden or suburban area and often become the center landscape composition. After all, the peony is beautiful not only during flowering, but also in other periods, since the foliage of many varieties and hybrids changes its green color to reddish-green or greenish-brown.

Peony at proper care can stay in one place for several decades and still not lose its appearance, as well as flowering power. But in order to do so, you need to know the features of choosing a place for planting, preparing the soil and the nuances of care throughout the year.

Site selection and land requirements

For the constant cultivation of grassy peonies (there are still tree-like varieties), well-lit areas with permeable, nutritious, sufficiently moist and loose soils are selected. Also, the place for permanent cultivation should be open so that there is a possibility of free air circulation, as this helps to prevent the occurrence of many diseases. But at the same time, the site should not be constantly blown by strong winds.

This plant can grow on almost any garden soil, but its development will take place in different ways.

• On soils with big amount clay peonies bloom very large flowers, but the overall development of the bush is quite slow.
• And where there is a lot of sand in the composition, peonies give a lot of shoots and leaves, but the number of flowers decreases.

The acid reaction of the soil can vary from slightly acidic to slightly alkaline (pH 5.8 to 7).

Remember! This plant is very demanding on the amount of moisture in the ground. But it does not withstand places with excessive moisture, as this causes rapid rotting of the roots.

Preparing the soil for planting

The site chosen for growing herbaceous peonies must be dug up to a great depth (up to 70 cm). The width and depth of the landing pit can vary from 50 to 70 cm.

Remember that with a shallow digging of the earth, the roots of the plant, reaching solid ground, begin to grow in a horizontal plane. And if there is a deficiency at this level nutrients and moisture, this causes a slowdown in the development of the bush and a deterioration in flowering.

Such deep tillage is especially required on heavy soils, as it enriches the soil with oxygen and helps water to drain faster into the lower layers of the earth. Pits are prepared 2-4 weeks before planting.

Before planting, the bottom of the pit must be loosened and two-thirds covered with a loose nutrient mixture, which is made up of peat (two parts) and humus (two parts). Also, bone meal (about 500 grams) and superphosphate (about 250 grams) are added there.

When to plant peonies

Optimal landing time for middle lane and the non-chernozem zone is the period from August 15 to September 15. During this period, peonies are at rest, since the buds have completed their formation, the roots have stopped growing, and the thin suction roots have not yet begun to grow.

When planted at a later time, the bushes do not have time to take root before the onset of the first frost. In this case, rooting occurs in the spring, and flowering occurs only a year later. It is better not to carry out planting work in the spring months.

Planting technology for herbaceous peonies

When planting herbaceous peonies, the distance between plants should be about a meter.

Plants are placed in a hole so that the buds are at a depth of about 5 cm. With a deeper planting, peonies stop blooming, although they grow and develop well. If the plants are planted at a depth of less than 5 cm, then in early spring or winter, during thaws, the buds may be damaged by frost.

When planting, all roots must be straightened and carefully covered with earth so that there are no empty spaces left.

Peony roots are covered with good garden soil without any fertilizer, humus and manure.

After planting, the bushes must be watered and the settled earth is filled up.

Herbaceous Peony Care

In order for this spectacular culture to please every year with good flowering, careful care is needed, which takes into account its biological characteristics.

Care is abundant watering, regular top dressing and weeding.

Watering

Both adults and newly planted plants are watered infrequently, but with plenty of water. It is worth remembering that during irrigation, the entire layer of earth where the roots are located should have been completely moistened.

At the same time, herbaceous peonies withstand dry weather quite well, so if the bushes begin to wither ahead of time from a lack of moisture, do not be upset. They will still bloom next year.

Water is especially required for peonies during certain periods of time:

1. In the spring, when shoots and leaves begin to grow intensively.
2. At the beginning of summer, when flowering occurs.
3. At the end of summer (July - mid-August), when renewal buds are laid.

Weeding and loosening

In caring for a peony, frequent weeding and loosening is of great importance, since such agricultural practices help retain moisture in the ground, as well as remove its excess from the surface, control weeds, and also allow air to penetrate the soil.

Loosening and removal of weed plants is carried out as necessary, but it is impossible to allow the land around the plants to grow over. The area next to the bushes is loosened to a width of up to half a meter and to a depth of about 5 cm.

Remember! In spring and autumn, shoots, roots and eyes are very fragile, so loosening should be done carefully and gently.

top dressing

It is advisable to start feeding peonies in the first year of cultivation. For the whole season spend from 2 to 3 dressings. To do this, use either mineral fertilizers with a full range of elements (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) or solution organic fertilizers(bird droppings, cow dung).

For fertilization, a circular depression is made 20 cm from the center of the bush (depth is about 10 cm). Fertilizers are poured into it, then they are spilled with water, and after it is absorbed, they are covered with earth to the top. In the same way, fertilizing with organic fertilizers is carried out.

Remember that various fertilizers are best applied after watering, and immediately after top dressing, you need to water the bushes again. A day later, be sure to loosen the soil.

Some subtleties of growing herbaceous peonies

In cultivation, it often happens that a newly planted bush does not germinate for a long time. In this situation, it is worth marking the landing site with a special indicator, do not loosen the soil and wait 6-8 weeks. Then you need to carefully dig young plant and examine the kidneys, roots and understand what's wrong with him.

In the first year of vegetation, the bushes most often do not produce flowers, but if they do appear, they are likely to be different from this variety. Flowers appearing on young specimens must be removed in the bud phase.. Full-fledged inflorescences in peonies begin to bloom only for 3-5 years of cultivation. Remember that with proper care, this culture grows well and develops up to half a century.

Why don't peonies bloom?

Quite often, flower growers complain about the lack of flowering in peonies. Let's get acquainted with the causes of this phenomenon and what to do in a given situation.

Peonies refuse to bloom if the place for permanent cultivation is in the shade, if there is not enough moisture in the soil, or if it is located next to shrubs or any buildings. In this case, the bushes need to be moved to a more suitable site.

Also, this culture does not produce flowers if the division of the bush is not carried out correctly, that is, on large “divides” there is a discrepancy between the size of the root system and the number of buds and shoots. Plants in this case need to be dug up and divided into ordinary-sized "delenki" with 3-5 buds.

The peony will not bloom if the bush is planted too shallow or too deep, and also if the plant itself is weakened or old. Such bushes are transplanted so that the buds are at a depth of about 5 cm.

Another reason why this crop will not produce flowers is dry weather, lack of water or nutrition during last year's bud formation. Also, these plants will not flower if the buds are damaged by a return frost due to shallow planting.

15 popular varieties of herbaceous peonies

Peony is perfect for decorating both a spacious garden and a small summer cottage. If your garden is quite large, plant peonies in groups and use the whole palette of colors and variety of shapes.

If you are the owner of a not very large area, decorate it with single plantings of peonies, between which you place low plants with smaller flowers. Peony bushes look gorgeous against the backdrop of an emerald lawn. Such a presentation will emphasize the openwork of the leaves of your handsome man and make you admire the lovely, large flowers.

Where to plant a peony?

Peonies are very fond of light. At noon, they will accept light shading, but heavy shading will cause the plants to stop flowering or show weak, poor-quality flowering.

Choose an open area for planting, away from the walls of buildings. On hot days, the peony will suffer from overheating near such a wall, and during the rains, all the water from the roof will fall into the bush.

Leave the distance between peonies 1-1.2m, this will enable the bushes to grow without interfering with each other.

Peony breeding

Peony can be propagated by seeds and division of the bush. The division of the bush is preferable, since the plants obtained by dividing will bloom quite quickly and retain the characteristics of the mother plant (important when propagating varietal peonies).

Division and transplantation is carried out in August-September:

• dig up an adult bush
• cut the stems
• rhizome well washed under running water
• we divide the rhizome so that we get delenki, which should have 3-5 buds and the same number of roots shortened to 10 cm
• bushes divide more easily if the roots are slightly tied
• planting a delenka in the hole
• abundantly water our seedling

Even if you just want to transplant a peony bush from one place to another, we recommend dividing it as well. This will help your pet bloom profusely.

Planting a peony

The planting hole for the peony should be spacious - 50-60 cm wide and deep. Since the peony does not tolerate stagnant moisture in the roots, arrange drainage from crushed stone or broken brick in the pit. We fill 2/3 of the pit with a nutrient mixture of organic fertilizers: rotted manure, compost, peat. For heavy clay soils, add 1 bucket of sand (preferably river sand), and for light sandy soils, 1-1.5 buckets of crushed clay. Mix everything well.

We fill up fertile soil. When planting, make sure that there is a layer of soil 4-5 cm above the upper bud, planted delenki. This depth will best affect the development and flowering of your peony.

Care

Basic rules for caring for a peony:

• regular weed removal
• soil loosening
• watering is not frequent, but plentiful, until wet through the entire depth of the roots
• top dressing (applied to the holes around the bush after watering)
• protective measures
• the first 1-2 years of young plants, flowers are removed to develop a powerful root system and stimulate lush flowering in the future

Fine-leaved peony (black-leaved)

Fine-leaved peony (Voronets) is a perennial, herbaceous species. Voronets is highly decorative. Its fiery red double flowers, perfectly combined with strongly dissected bright green leaves, are visible from afar. Blooms earlier than other herbaceous peonies. Decorative all summer. Thin-leaved (narrow-leaved) peony looks great in a flower garden. Well suited for ornamental plantings near a pond.

Peony varieties

There are many varieties of peonies. We have selected some of the most beautiful varieties for you and we hope that you will like them too. We are sure that your garden will be beautiful with them.

• "White Cap" ("White Cup")- interspecific hybrid. Anemone-shaped flower, 14-17 cm in diameter. The color is dark pink, the middle is light yellow, then almost white. Medium term flowering. 0.9-1.1m
• "Susie Q" ("Susie Q")- a flower with a diameter of 18 cm, terry pink, pink. The leaves are narrow, small. Flowering later. Bush height 0.7m
• "Starlight" ("Starlight", "Starlight")- hybrid peony. The flower is anemone-shaped, large, light cream, aminodia are yellow. Bush height 0.8m
• "Solange" ("Solange")- flower 17 cm in diameter, terry, cream, when dissolved with a light pink tint. Fragrant. It has strong stems 0.7m high. Flowering later

• "Seguestered Sunshine"- the shape of the flower is from simple to semi-double with a diameter of 17 cm. The color is yellow, the bases of the petals are with a pink tint. Stamens short, yellow, anthers large. The pistils are light green, the stigmas of the pistils are pink. Flowering is early-medium.
• "Scarlet O'Hara" ("Scarlet O'Hara")- interspecific hybrid. A flower of a simple form, fiery red (scarlet), brilliant, in the center a ball of yellow stamens. Bush height up to 1.3m. Flowering early
• "Sarah Bernhardt" ("Sarah Bernard")- flower 20 cm in diameter, double, pink-lilac with lighter edges on strong stems. The leaves are dark green, large. Fragrant. Flowering mid-late

• "Red Grace" ("Red Grace")- a flower with a diameter of 18 cm, double-bomb-shaped with a dense center, dark red, sparkling. The stem is strong small leaves. Bush height 0.9m. Flowering early
• "Raspberry Sunday"- flower 16-18 cm in diameter, complex color: outer petals are pale pink, more saturated in the crown, the center is yellow-cream. The stems are strong. Bush height 0.7m. Flowering early-medium
• "Princess Margaret" ("Princess Margaret")- flower up to 20 cm, densely double, rich pink, without blue. Stems strong, ribbed. The leaves are green, slightly folded. Three-time APS Grand Champion: 1971, 1974, 1978
• "Primevere" ("Primavera")- lactiferous peony. The flower is anemone-shaped, medium in size, rare in color: the outer petals are white, cupped, the central ones are short, narrow, yellow, brighten with age. The stems are weak and require support. Has a light fragrance

• "Pink Havaiian Coral" ("Pink Hawaiian Coral", "Pink Hawaiian Coral")- flower up to 16 cm, double or semi-double, pink-coral color, white shading along the edge of the outer petals, yellow center. Fragrant. Strong bush 0.7 m high.
• "Pillow Talk"- Terry flower, rosy, very large (20-25 cm in diameter), pale pink, fluffy. Aroma medium
• "Moon River" ("Moon River")- large flower 17-18cm, creamy with a pink tint. Flowers keep their shape for a long time. Medium term flowering
• "Koenigin Wilhelmina" ("Koenigin Wilhelmina")- densely double flower 16 cm, with a funnel in the center, light pink with saturation in depth, there are carmine marks on the central petals. The aroma is strong and pleasant. Flowering mid-late
• "Julia Rose" ("Julia Rose")- flower simple-semi-double, large. The color changes as the flower blooms, from cherry red to orange-pink to yellow. It can show three different shades at the same time.

Support for peonies

Published by DecorateMe. Updated 27 Oct 2018 .

Herbaceous peony refers to plants that delight with their flowering in the first half of summer. As soon as the earth on the plot warms up a little, reddish thickened sprouts can be observed on its surface after a short period of time.

Initially, they are no different. big size, but very soon they turn into tall and strong stems on which buds form.
There are also such peonies, the inflorescences of which can reach up to 20 cm in diameter.

Those who adore them for abundant flowering and the magnificent shape of the bush, they strive to extend the time of enjoying their view and plant varieties different terms flowering.

Herbaceous peonies most often come in these colors:

• white;
• red;
• yellow;
• pink.

peonies care

Gardeners love peonies because they are perennial plants that do not require special conditions. In order to enjoy its lush bushes for a long time, the flower must be watered abundantly (after all, the tuberous roots are at a depth) and loosen the near-stem space.

At the beginning of spring, when the vegetative period is just beginning in peonies, it is recommended to feed the plants with a nitrogen-containing complex. Secondary feeding will be appropriate during the period of bud formation, only this time it will be necessary to choose a phosphorus fertilizer.

In order for the bushes to bloom longer, the flowering shoots must be disposed of with a knife.

The third time to fertilize peony bushes is necessary after flowering, when the plant will need potassium and phosphorus.

All types of herbaceous peonies can suffer from diseases, among which gray rot is common. Moreover, any part of the plant is affected by the fungus:

• trunk;
• foliage;
• inflorescence;
• roots.

In the event that this disease was found on the bush, it is necessary to remove all damaged areas with a sharp knife and disinfect the plant with a preparation containing copper.

IN autumn period the ground part of pions is subject to cutting. Peonies do not need shelter for the winter, as they steadfastly endure the cold. Only in their first wintering, young plants are recommended to be insulated with covering material.

Reproduction of peonies

Those who decide to propagate this flower using seeds that ripen in boxes in the place of the former bud are advised to abandon it. Varietal features At the same time, the peony is most often not preserved, and it will take at least five years to wait for flowering.

The best way to breed peonies is by root division. take care of it better in autumn or at the end of August.

The roots are dug up when the bushes are to be updated. The need for this arises when peonies grow in one place for a very long time and flowering becomes scarce.

The tree peony is both a shrub and a flower.

One has only to plant on this plant, and you can get a lushly growing inflorescence ornamental shrub. In height, a tree-like peony can grow up to 2 meters.

It all depends on the fertility of the soil, the year of life and care.
These flowering plants are long-lived.

These shrubs can grow in one place for 90-150 years. The most ancient centenarian is a tree-like peony, which is 300 years old.

The peony grows slowly and, as it grows, produces 10-70 inflorescences every year, and sometimes hundreds. The flowers are usually spherical or bowl shaped. They decorate the bush for about two weeks.

Among those who care for a tree peony, hybrid varieties are the most common. They have long feathery leaves, and the flowers are up to 25 cm in diameter. Dwarf tree peonies are also in demand.

Tree peonies requirements

For the normal maintenance of tree peonies, it is desirable to provide them with a place with a sufficient amount of light and protected from drafts.
If the peony bush is located under the shade of a small tree, it receives diffuse sunbathing and blooms longer. But under the open sky, the bushes bloom more abundantly.

The soil under peonies should be fertilized, drained and alkaline.

If there is a need to transplant a plant or plant a new one on your own, then the most favorable time for this is the period from late August to mid-September. Also, a tree peony can be planted in early spring, but it must be borne in mind that in this case it will be most vulnerable to frost.

Read also:

Creeping miracle - purslane

The planting hole for the flower is prepared in advance. It is given the shape of a cone. At the base should be twice the diameter on the surface.

Landing principle

First you need to pour a thick drainage layer on the bottom ( broken brick, gravel and sand). Then all this should be filled with humus. At the end, place the root of the shrub there and sprinkle with the top fertile layer of soil.

If harsh winters rage in the region, flower growers recommend making a protective dry shelter. Especially young plants or recently planted shrubs need this. As a covering material can be used:

• spruce branches;
• reeds;
• dry needles.

After wintering, in April, the plant is inspected and all dry branches are removed.

In any garden there is a place for these beautiful plants. They look gorgeous against the backdrop of lawns, even at the moment when the flowering has passed. Landscape designers note the demand for this shrub, go to meet their customers and use the tree peony both in single and in group plantings.

Why don't peonies bloom?

During flowering, the peony bush is a very lush greenery and lush, bright inflorescences with intoxicating aroma. But it also happens that some owners of peonies do not bloom.

The first reason for the lack of flowering may be the wrong landing site. For a peony, a place that is too shady, with stagnant moisture, is not suitable. Also, this plant will not bloom luxuriantly near tall trees and shrubs.

The acidity of the soil should not be higher than 6.5.

Of great importance is the depth of planting a peony bush. If the plant is planted too shallow, its buds will not be protected by soil and may suffer from frost in winter. And, conversely, too deep landing prevents flowering. The best option is a deepening of the buds of peonies, which are located at the base of its stems five cm into the ground.

Also, the reason for the lack of flowering of peonies may be errors in feeding. If the soil is poor in trace elements, the bushes of this plant will bloom, but sparsely and with small inflorescences. And with an excess of fertilizers, they will acquire too lush green mass, but flowering may not occur at all.

The name of the flower comes from the name of Pean (Payeon), a character in ancient Greek mythology, who was the physician of the Olympian gods. He healed Hades himself from the wounds inflicted on him by Hercules. This name was given to the genus by Theophrastus, and the ancient Roman philosopher of the 1st century BC. e. Pliny the Elder listed twenty diseases cured with the rhizome of the medicinal peony (Paeonia officinalis).

The genus contains about 40 species naturally distributed in the temperate zone of Eurasia. In culture, several natural species and varietal peonies are grown, the founder of which was the milky-flowered peony.

Natural types of peonies are divided into forest and plants of steppes and meadows. Forest species, these are peonies: evading peony or Maryin root (Paeonia anomala), Wittmann peony (Paeonia wittmanniana), felt-fruited peony (Paeonia tomentosa), Caucasian peony (Paeonia caucasica), large-leaved peony (Paeonia macrophylla) and obovate peony (Paeonia obovata) . Forest peonies are, as a rule, tall (up to 80-100 cm) plants that form sprawling bushes with trifoliate leaves and large (up to 12 cm in diameter) simple flowers. Peonies of meadows and steppes are Crimean peony (Paeonia daurica), milky-flowered peony (Paeonia lactiflora) and fine-leaved peony (Paeonia tenuifolia).

In the gardens, they mainly grow a huge number of varieties and hybrids (Paeonia x hybrida) obtained as a result of many years of breeding work from P. lactiflora (P. lactiflora) and P. offlcinalis (P. officinalis), differing in shape, doubleness and color of the flower, height and the structure of the bush, as well as the timing of flowering. The basis of the modern garden classification is the structure of the flower, according to which the groups are distinguished: non-double, Japanese, anemone, semi-double and terry. Varieties with double flowers subdivided in turn into: rose-shaped, bomb-shaped, crowned and spherical. Early varieties begin to bloom in late May, late ones bloom in early July.

Classification

In floriculture, a classification is used that takes into account life forms pions and the origin of cultivated hybrids.

herbaceous

BUT) Species (or botanical) - these include all types and forms found in nature, as well as decorative forms medicinal peony. This is the smallest group, accounting for about 1% of all cultivars.

B) Varieties of peony lactiflora (previously they were often called “Chinese”, because the Chinese were engaged in their culture several centuries ago, and it was from China that the first varieties were brought to Europe). This includes intraspecific hybrids obtained from crossing between varieties of this species, as well as natural form this species and its varieties. This group makes up more than two thirds of all cultivars. All its representatives are distinguished by high winter hardiness and a pleasant aroma of flowers.

IN) hybrids - this includes varieties obtained from crossing the peony lactiflora with other species and varieties obtained from other species, as well as hybrids between other species. This is the youngest group, it makes up almost a third of the total number of varieties. Thanks to the participation different types members of this group have a more diverse color scheme than varieties of lactiflora peony - among them there are pure white, creamy yellow, lavender, pink, coral, fiery red and very dark, almost brown.

Large-leaved peony (Paeonia macrophylla)

Perennial herbaceous plant up to 100 cm high. The leaves are large, double-triple, with wide entire lobes. The flowers are large, white with a yellowish tint, the petals are large. Blooms in April-May.
Prefers a semi-shady location, deeply cultivated and well-drained loose garden soil.
Low-growing drought-resistant species (Crimean peony and fine-leaved peony) can be grown in rockeries.

Crimean peony (Paeonia daurica)

Perennial plant 40-60 cm high. The lower leaves are double-trifoliate, with wavy edges. Flowers 8 to 9 cm in diameter. Petals are rounded, slightly elongated, red-pink. Blooms in May.
Needs rich in organic matter loose garden soils, can grow in the sun or in partial shade, does not tolerate stagnant moisture.

Peony thin-leaved, narrow-leaved (Paeonia tenuifolia)

A perennial plant that forms a compact hemispherical shrub 30-45 cm high. The leaves are pinnately dissected, dark green. The flower is solitary, surrounded by shortened apical leaves, up to 8 cm in diameter, with dark red petals. Blooms in mid-May.
Fine-leaved peony - very beautiful plant, not inferior in decorativeness to cultivated varieties. The contrast of graceful foliage with large satin flower petals attracts attention. The combination of this species with plantings of garden peonies is spectacular.

Peony lactiflora (Paeonia lactiflora)

The species combines cultivars of herbaceous peonies of complex hybrid origin. perennial plants, forming slowly growing dense bushes from 25 to 150 cm high. According to the shape and height of the bush, hybrid peonies are conventionally divided into 3 groups:

Park- undersized, with strong stems that look good in the foreground of groups and mixborders, in single landing because they do not need a garter.

cut- with tall flower-bearing stems and showy flowers. They are planted in the background of groups and mixborders in such a way that neighboring plants hide the supports installed around the bush. Without this measure, the stems of cut peonies lie down during the flowering period.

Universal- having relatively tall, but strong stems, in a place protected from the wind, they can grow without a garter.

Peonies need nutritious, balanced soil. For planting, only well-rotted compost or manure is introduced. With an excess of nitrogen, the bushes are affected by fungal infections and may die. It is also necessary to prevent the formation of a crust around the plant on the soil surface.

Herbaceous peonies differ in the type of flower, height and shape of the bush, flowering time, the presence or absence of aroma, the color and shape of the leaves, and the stability of the peduncles.
The aroma of peonies is diverse, in many varieties it resembles the smell of roses, lemon, lily of the valley, lilac, honey, jasmine or linden. A pleasant aroma is characteristic of the milky-flowered peony, from which many hybrids inherited it. Some varieties of peonies have a sharp, unpleasant odor, this is especially true for varieties with a coral flower color. Varieties of medicinal peony are odorless.
When choosing varieties for planting in the garden, various characteristics. For example, the stability of the peduncles and the shape of the bush are important if peonies are planted to create a garden composition. Any artificial supports will irritate the eye, whereas for cutting plants this is not a big deal.

Flowering time

You can pick up a collection of peonies in such a way that they will bloom for 6-7 weeks. Exact calendar dates cannot be specified, they fluctuate depending on the weather, and can move back and forth by a week or even more.

In the conditions of the Moscow region, the flowering sequence is approximately the following:
Mid-May - Mlokosevich's peony, evading peony (Maryin root);

End of May - large-leaved peony, p. Bicha, p. medicinal, p. foreign, p. Crimean, p. Caucasian, p. thin-leaved male, p. obovate, p. lobata, hybrids of p. Witman (Ballerina) and p. Mlokosevich (Athena, Clarion);

Early June - mountain peony, p. milky-flowered, varieties of p. medicinal - Lize van Veen, Rosea Plena, Rubra Plena, interspecific hybrids of p. fine-leaved (Early Scout, Little Red Gem, Smouthii), and p. Mlokosevich (Claire de Lune, Early Glow, Open Sesam);

Mid-June - early varieties of lactiflora peony (Gardenia, Krinkled White), interspecific hybrids of lactiflora and officinal hybrids (Carol, Dandy Dan, Red Charm, Cyteria, Pink Hawaiian Coral, Coral Charm, Scarlet O "Hara, Moonrise);

The end of June - the bulk of peonies are blooming - varieties of lactiflora with medium flowering periods (Sarah Bernhard, Laura Dessert, Lady Alexandra Duff);

Beginning of July - late varieties of lactiflora (Clemenceau, Marie Lemoine).

flower type

The following flower types are distinguished:

1) simple - in a flower there are 5 or 10 (that is, one or two rows) petals. In the center of the flower are pistils and stamens, they can be full-fledged (in specific peonies) or sterile (in hybrids). All species of peonies and many hybrids have this flower shape. As a rule, their flowers are lighter than most terry ones, due to which the flower stalks hold them without drooping under the weight. Therefore, the habit of the bush has the correct shape, the flowers are turned up and are clearly visible. Many flower growers and especially garden designers appreciate varieties with a simple flower shape, which are more natural in garden compositions;

2) semi-double - there are many petals in a flower, they can be arranged randomly interspersed with stamens, or symmetrically, when the flower has several rows of petals instead of one (this is also called “a flower in a flower”), and rows of stamens evenly alternate with rows of petals. This type of flower is found in species peonies, in varieties of lactiflora peony and in hybrids, respectively, the reproductive organs can be full-fledged (fertile), or sterile;

3) Japanese form - in England this form is also called imperial. Flowers with this form have 5 or 10 petals, and the anthers of the stamens are modified - greatly enlarged and do not have pollen, turning into petal-shaped formations. The staminate filaments, as a rule, are also deformed, expanded, but there are exceptions when they retain a filamentous shape. Such modified stamens are called staminodes.
In shape, staminodes are narrow and even, wide, wavy, twisted, and may have carved edges. Their color also varies and usually changes as the flower blooms. In white and light pink varieties, the staminodes are usually entirely yellow, in crimson and red, their bases may also be red, and the tips yellow and even almost white;
Along with staminodes, normal or modified stamens with pollen may also be present in the flower. This form of flower was first obtained in Japan; it is characteristic of varieties of lactiflora peony. The pistils of such varieties are normally developed, so they can be used in further hybridization.

4) terry - the whole flower is more or less evenly filled with numerous petals. Pistils and stamens are either absent altogether, or they are not visible among the petals.

There are five subgroups within this group:

A) pink - a flower correct form, evenly complex, all petals are almost the same size, there is practically no difference between the marginal and central petals. (Mrs Franklin D. Roosevelt, Suzy Q);

B) crowned - the outer petals are large and wide, the inner ones are staminodes or petalodies, narrow and usually bend inward, forming a kind of crown. (Monsieur Jule Elie, White Sail);

C) bomb-shaped - the outer petals are large, like those of a crown flower, and the inner, numerous staminodes and petalodies, form a lush dome. Such flowers are usually heavy, strong peduncles are needed to support their weight. The name was given because of the similarity of such flowers with the dessert popular at the time in the United States - ice cream "bombe" (Raspberry Sandae);

D) spherical - the outer petals are wide, the inner ones are plentiful and somewhat narrower, but in general the outline of the flower looks like a ball (Cornelia Shaylor);

E) anemone - this term is not generally recognized. In fact, the anemone form is an even more developed Japanese form. The flowers have 5 or 10 petals, and the stamens are completely deformed and turned into petal-like formations - petalodies devoid of pollen. They can be not only yellow, but the same color as the outer petals (pink, red). Normal stamens are absent. So far, such varieties are not numerous, and they are sometimes referred to as the Japanese or terry form, depending on the degree of development of the petalody. This form is found in varieties of lactiflora peony. (Gay Paree, Primevere).

Agricultural technology

The decorative effect, productivity and longevity of the culture depend on the correct agricultural technology, taking into account the biological characteristics of peonies.

First of all, you need to know that peonies are very photophilous. They can tolerate light partial shade, especially at noon, but strong shading for 2-3 hours leads to the fact that the plants either do not bloom at all or the flowers are of poor quality. They should not be planted near buildings: they will suffer from overheating and dryness from the walls, as well as from dripping from roofs and from snow blockages. And planted near trees and shrubs - they will lack moisture and nutrition.

Peonies can grow in almost all garden soils. But the best for them are loamy cultivated, well-drained and fairly moisture-intensive soils.

Although peonies are very demanding on soil moisture throughout growing season, but at the same time, they absolutely cannot tolerate damp, swampy places where their roots rot. The reaction of the soil environment should be slightly acidic or neutral (pH 6-7). The roots of peonies penetrate to the depth to which the soil is cultivated.

With shallow cultivation, the roots, having reached solid ground, grow to the sides, located in the upper soil layer. In this case, the plants lack moisture and nutrition and grow poorly. Therefore, deep tillage is required.

Landing pits should have a depth and width of at least 50-60 cm. The bottom is loosened and the pit is filled 2/3 with nutrient mixture. The mixture consists of 15-20 kg of organic fertilizers (rotted manure, compost, peat), where 400 g of granulated superphosphate or 400 g of bone meal, 150-200 g of potassium sulfate are added and for acidic soils- lime. Here it is important to know that 300-350 g of lime per 1 m2 increase the pH by one, i.e. significantly reduce the acidity of the soil environment.

On heavy clay soils, 1 bucket of sand (preferably river sand) is added to the mixture, and on very light sandy soils - 1-1.5 buckets of crushed clay. The upper part of the pit (about 20 cm) is filled with fertile soil from the topsoil.
On waterlogged soils, drainage is necessary. To do this, gravel, pebbles, broken bricks are poured into the bottom of the landing pit, deepening it by 15-20 cm.

Herbaceous peony, preparation of planting material

Planting material preparation. The main and most reliable way to propagate garden peonies is to divide the bush. The best time for this operation is from mid-August to mid-September. This is the time when the renewal buds have already fully formed (from which shoots with leaves and flowers will form in the spring), but the mass formation of suction roots has not yet begun.

After pruning the stems, the bush is carefully (so as not to damage the buds) dug out, washed from the ground with a stream of water and carefully divided into planting units - delenki, which should have 3-5 buds and the same number of roots shortened to 10 cm. Bushes divide more easily if the roots are a little tied up. They are divided using a wooden wedge, which is driven into the center of the bush with a hammer. The roots are cut with a sharp, fire-sterilized knife, the cut fabrics are sprinkled with crushed charcoal.

It should be taken into account that if there are too many buds in the planting part, and few roots, then the developing shoots will lack nutrition and develop poorly. If there are few buds, but many thick storage roots, then young plants will not form new roots in the first year, and the next year they will suffer from insufficient development of the root system. When dividing the bush into small parts - with 1-2 eyes and a piece of rhizome, the plants develop slowly (flowering occurs a year later), but these will be healthy plants with a well-developed root system. Such small delenki need to be grown for 1-2 years on special ridges.

Planting herbaceous peonies

Landing. When planting peonies in a permanent place, they are placed at a distance of 100-120 cm from each other. Plants are located in the upper third of the pit in fertile layer soil without fertilizer. Above the upper bud of the planted delenka there should be a layer of soil 4-5 cm. With a greater depth of the buds, the plants, although they will grow well, will not bloom. Shallow planting bushes can be "squeezed" out of the ground. In the future, the buds may be damaged by late spring frosts, and flowering will be weak. The roots should be loose, they should not be bent or pressed.

After planting, the plants should be watered, and then topped up with earth so that the buds are not open. If there is no rain during the planting period, then watering should be repeated every 2-3 days for 2-3 weeks, then the hole should be mulched with peat.

Planted peonies in the first year are recommended to be covered with peat or leaves for the winter (but not peony). In early spring, plantings are freed from shelter, raking it into the aisles. It is necessary to ensure that the kidneys are not above ground level and, if necessary, add earth.

Caring for herbaceous peonies, the timing and frequency of fertilization
Plant care. Annual care consists in the systematic removal of weeds, loosening, watering, fertilizing, protective measures. Young plants should be fertilized from the first year of life. Fertilizers, especially in liquid form, and mullein are best applied to the holes around the bush and, after watering, cover them with earth. This favorably affects the development of a young plant.

Norms, terms and frequency of fertilization depend on soil fertility, age and phases of plant development. At the beginning of growth, the plant needs a large number of nitrogen, during budding and flowering - nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, when laying buds - only phosphorus and potassium. In the first two top dressings (in the spring in the snow and during the budding period), you can give nitrophoska at 100 g / m2. The third top dressing should be carried out immediately after flowering: add granulated superphosphate (25-30 g) and potassium sulfate (10-15 g) or potassium magnesia (15-20 g). The mixture is dissolved in 10 liters of water (dose per 1 m2).

To stimulate the best development of plants in the first and second years after planting, it is recommended to remove the flowers. In subsequent years, to obtain larger flowers, it is better to leave one flower on the stem, removing the remaining buds in the size of a pea.

When cutting flowers at least half of the stems should be left on the bush (otherwise the plant will weaken). In terry varieties, stems cannot always hold large, heavy flowers. Therefore, supports are installed near the bushes during the budding period. They can be made from thick (0.5 cm) wire in the form of rings with racks that are painted green.

In late autumn, with the onset of the first frosts, the entire aerial part of the peony plant is cut and burned. Early pruning may cause a lack of flowering next year.

N. Ya. Ippolitova, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences

Diseases

gray rot (botrytis)- fungal disease. The disease is recognized by a gray coating on the affected parts of the plant. The first signs of damage are the wilting of young shoots, brown spots appear at the base, encircling the young shoot. With a strong defeat, the bushes fall apart, the stems fall and dry out. Later, unblown buds die off, the edges of the leaves turn brown. A gray coating appears on the affected parts of the plant. The fungus causes root rot. Plants flooded with spring waters, on clay soils and in case of overfeeding with nitrogenous fertilizers are more often affected.

Usually, two or three preventive treatments are carried out with an interval of 10-12 days: the first is watering the bushes with one of the fungicide solutions at the beginning of the growing season when buds appear above the ground (2-Zl solution per bush); the second and third - spraying the plants with one of the fungicide solutions. Later, when gray rot appears on the stems, they are immediately cut out to the rhizome and the affected area is poured with one of the fungicides (1 liter of solution per bush).
The least toxic fungicides:
copper sulfate (50-70 g per 10 liters of water);
copper oxychloride (60-70 g per 10 liters of water);
colloidal sulfur (60-100 g per 10 l of water);
Bordeaux liquid (100 g blue vitriol and 75 g of quicklime); the components are dissolved separately, then a solution of copper sulfate is poured into the lime solution and the mixture is added with water to 10 l;
burgundy liquid - prepared in the same way as Bordeaux, but instead of lime, soda is taken in the same amount;
potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) - 3 g per 10 liters of water;
lime-sulfur decoction (200 g of sulfur and 100 g of lime per 10 liters of water); quicklime quench in a small amount of water and then add sulfur powder. Top up with water to 10 liters and boil for 1 hour; the resulting solution is diluted before use in the ratio of 200 g of solution per 10 liters of water.
Good results in the prevention of the fight against gray rot are obtained by spraying the plantings of pions in the fall with a solution of nitrafen at a concentration of 200 g per 10 liters of water after cutting and burning the aerial parts of the plants. Of the methods of plant protection that are harmless to humans and animals, amateurs most often use garlic infusion treatment (3-5 g of crushed garlic per 1 liter of water).

Rust- fungal disease. Yellowish-brown spots appear on both sides of the leaves, on the underside of which there are yellow-orange spots of sporulation of the fungus. Mushroom reserve - pine.

brown spot peony leaves - a fungal disease. Brown or dark purple spots appear on affected leaves. irregular shape. At first they are small, and then cover the entire leaf blade. In damp weather, a smoky coating of sporulation appears on the underside of the leaf.

powdery mildew - fungal disease. It mainly affects the leaves, forming a plaque on them.

white spotting- fungal disease. Light, angular or rounded spots with a dark rim appear on the leaves. The second type of spotting is phyllostictosis. It is characterized by brown spots on the leaves and numerous dots on these spots.

Of the bacterial diseases, bacterial cancer is the most common. On the roots, at the root collar, white outgrowths with an uneven, tuberculate surface are formed. Over time, the outgrowths turn yellow, then darken. By the end of the growing season, the outgrowths rot and collapse. Plants are disrupted in their diet. Cancer is dangerous for young plants.

ring spot- viral disease. Light yellow narrow rings, lines and intricate patterns are clearly visible on the leaves. Later, the rings and lines blur into yellow spots.

Pests

The most common pest is bronzovka green- a beetle 15-20 mm long, which devours stamens, pistils and gnaws the petals of peony flowers. Simultaneously with the bronzovka, the Kuzka beetle attacks the peonies. These beetles are most commonly seen on tree peony.

Root nematodes(acne) settle in the roots of peonies, causing knotty root swellings. After the decay of the roots, they move to new ones.

Scoop butterfly caterpillars gnaw buds from plants planted in the shade or partial shade. Such buds dry up without opening.

We bring to your attention the article of the candidate of agricultural sciences Ippolitova N. Ya. about the features of agricultural technology, planting and caring for herbaceous peonies.

Probably, each person has their favorite flowers. But at the same time there is flower plants that everyone likes. Well, how can one pass indifferently past a luxurious fragrant rose, which is rightly called the queen of flowers, and a peony, the most delicate, lush peony from an abundance of petals ... can it not rightfully be considered the prince of the flower kingdom ?!

herbaceous peony- one of the most popular and common perennial ornamental plants. It is highly valued for its excellent large and delicate flowers, ornamental bush from spring to autumn. And, of course, for the ability to reproduce well and grow in one place for a long time (up to 20 years or more).

Currently known more than 6 thousand varieties. It is hardly advisable to strive to collect a large collection of peonies on a small plot of land. It is enough to plant several varieties of just one plant. And, most importantly, the flowers of these varieties should be of different colors and various terms flowering.

Proper agricultural practices of peonies

From the right agricultural technology, taking into account the biological characteristics of pions, depends on the decorativeness, productivity and longevity of the culture.

First of all, you need to know that peonies are very photophilous. They can tolerate light partial shade, especially at noon, but strong shading for 2-3 hours leads to the fact that the plants either do not bloom at all or the flowers are of poor quality. They should not be planted near buildings: they will suffer from overheating and dryness from the walls, as well as from dripping from roofs and from snow blockages. And planted near trees and shrubs - they will lack moisture and nutrition.

peonies can grow in almost all garden soils. But the best for them are loamy cultivated, well-drained and fairly moisture-intensive soils.

Although peonies are very demanding to soil moisture throughout the growing season, but at the same time they do not tolerate damp, swampy places where their roots rot. The reaction of the soil environment should be slightly acidic or neutral (pH 6-7). The roots of peonies penetrate to the depth to which the soil is cultivated.

With shallow cultivation, the roots, having reached solid ground, grow to the sides, located in the upper soil layer. In this case, the plants lack moisture and nutrition and grow poorly. Therefore, deep tillage is required.

landing pits should have a depth and width of at least 50-60 cm. The bottom is loosened and the pit is filled 2/3 with nutrient mixture. The mixture consists of 15-20 kg of organic fertilizers (rotted manure, compost, peat), where 400 g of granular superphosphate or 400 g of bone meal, 150-200 g of potassium sulfate and lime are added for acidic soils. Here it is important to know that 300-350 g of lime per 1 m2 increase the pH by one, i.e. significantly reduce the acidity of the soil environment.

On heavy clay soils 1 bucket of sand is added to the mixture (preferably river sand), and on very light sandy soils - 1-1.5 buckets of crushed clay. The upper part of the pit (about 20 cm) is filled with fertile soil from the topsoil.
On waterlogged soils drainage is required. To do this, gravel, pebbles, broken bricks are poured into the bottom of the landing pit, deepening it by 15-20 cm.

Herbaceous peony, preparation of planting material

Planting material preparation. The main and most reliable way to propagate garden peonies is to divide the bush. The best time for this operation is from mid-August to mid-September. This is the time when the renewal buds have already fully formed (from which shoots with leaves and flowers will form in the spring), but the mass formation of suction roots has not yet begun.

After trimming The stems of the bush are carefully (so as not to damage the buds) dug up, washed from the ground with a stream of water and carefully divided into planting units - delenki, which should have 3-5 buds and the same number of roots shortened to 10 cm. Bushes divide more easily if the roots are a little tied up. They are divided using a wooden wedge, which is driven into the center of the bush with a hammer. The roots are cut with a sharp, fire-sterilized knife, the cut fabrics are sprinkled with crushed charcoal.

Need to take into account that if there are too many buds in the planting part, and few roots, then the developing shoots will lack nutrition and develop poorly. If there are few buds, but many thick storage roots, then young plants will not form new roots in the first year, and the next year they will suffer from insufficient development of the root system. When dividing the bush into small parts - with 1-2 eyes and a piece of rhizome, the plants develop slowly (flowering occurs a year later), but these will be healthy plants with a well-developed root system. Such small delenki need to be grown for 1-2 years on special ridges.

Planting herbaceous peonies

Landing. When planting peonies in a permanent place, they are placed at a distance of 100-120 cm from each other. Plants are placed in the upper third of the pit in a fertile soil layer without fertilizers. Above the upper bud of the planted delenka there should be a layer of soil 4-5 cm. With a greater depth of the buds, the plants, although they will grow well, will not bloom. Shallow planting bushes can be "squeezed" out of the ground. In the future, the buds may be damaged by late spring frosts, and flowering will be weak. The roots should be loose, they should not be bent or pressed.

After landing plants should be watered, and then topped up with earth so that the buds are not open. If there is no rain during the planting period, then watering should be repeated every 2-3 days for 2-3 weeks, then the hole should be mulched with peat.

planted peonies in the first year it is recommended to cover with peat or leaves for the winter (but not peony). In early spring, plantings are freed from shelter, raking it into the aisles. It is necessary to ensure that the kidneys are not above ground level and, if necessary, add earth.

Caring for herbaceous peonies, the timing and frequency of fertilization

Plant care. Annual care consists in the systematic removal of weeds, loosening, watering, fertilizing, protective measures. Young plants should be fertilized from the first year of life. Fertilizers, especially in liquid form, and mullein are best applied to the holes around the bush and, after watering, cover them with earth. This favorably affects the development of a young plant.

Norms, terms and frequency of fertilization depend on soil fertility, age and phases of plant development. At the beginning of growth, the plant requires a large amount of nitrogen, during budding and flowering - nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, when laying buds - only phosphorus and potassium. In the first two top dressings (in the spring in the snow and during the budding period), you can give nitrophoska at 100 g / m2. The third top dressing should be carried out immediately after flowering: add granulated superphosphate (25-30 g) and potassium sulfate (10-15 g) or potassium magnesia (15-20 g). The mixture is dissolved in 10 liters of water (dose per 1 m2).

To stimulate better plant development in the first and second years after planting, it is recommended to remove flowers. In subsequent years, to obtain larger flowers, it is better to leave one flower on the stem, removing the remaining buds in the size of a pea.

When cutting flowers at least half of the stems should be left on the bush (otherwise the plant will weaken). In terry varieties, stems cannot always hold large, heavy flowers. Therefore, supports are installed near the bushes during the budding period. They can be made from thick (0.5 cm) wire in the form of rings with racks that are painted green.

Late autumn with the onset of the first frost the entire aerial part of the peony plant is cut and burned. Early pruning may cause a lack of flowering next year.

N. Ya. Ippolitova, candidate of agricultural sciences