How to make a table at home: a simple and understandable instruction. Do-it-yourself table: we make wooden and folding tables by studying the drawings and step-by-step instructions How to make a table at home

The table is the second object after the stool, which a novice furniture maker should take up. Design simple table no more difficult than a stool; unassuming comfortable table to the cottage or for a picnic, you can build in half a day using a hacksaw, hammer and drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly ennobled can also look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensively purchased one. However, the table also gives more freedom. creative expression, it can be a significant and even a key element of interior design, it is not for nothing that handicraft furniture makers are called joiners, and not sofa makers, cabinetrs or bedside tables. Having mastered the carpentry craft, it will be possible to take up exclusive tables over time, the rest of the poses. there.

This article discusses how to make tables out of wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic qualities. In utilitarian products, she forgives rather gross mistakes for beginners, but fine woodwork requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, then mastering glass, metal and plastic will be much easier.

Tool and workshop

To make a table with your own hands, you need a separate from the living rooms production room: Woodwork is notoriously dusty. In addition, such good means of toning and protecting wood as wood stains emit harmful fumes during staining; nitro-varnishes, too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, and preferably with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and they will not benefit the car. Better to work in the barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, but on the farm it will come in handy for a lot of things.

The usual carpentry tool, on the left in the figure, is enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better if modern achievements are brought to the rescue, right there:

Swivel miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make saw cuts exactly in size and in angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with a complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work will be more accurate. The miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
Also universal is a manual electric jigsaw with an inclined shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, it makes it possible for a beginner to get the surface of a wooden plate in 5-15 minutes, on which an experienced carpenter with a skin in his hand will take at least an hour, and tape, pos. 5, also quickly and efficiently process the ends; there are also belt grinders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders; artificially aging, a tree, but this is a delicate work.
It is also preferable at first to rent a manual wood router, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges, choose holes and grooves.

A universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on a table, powered by 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines a circular saw, planer, wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just grind the table legs on it, the tailstock caliper overhang is too small. But the caliper itself is just steel round pipe, it is easy to lengthen it. The stop of the cutter remains regular, it is mobile, the leg and with a long caliper are sharpened in one setting.

How to choose a tree?

A wooden table can be made from any wood of medium rot resistance, except for the most soft rocks: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Of the domestic ones, these include:

The rocks are listed in order of availability. For example, timber harvesting horse chestnut, sycamore and juniper are not cultivated at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in southern regions, while the juniper is endangered and protected. Industrial blanks of elm are almost completely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and mountain ash - for weapons stocks; complete plastic replacement they don't have yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, does not renew well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and the wood is expensive.

Note: walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent viscosity, the most openwork carving does not prick on the nut. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.

At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. Pine or oak will go to the countertop; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop, it is strongly warped from the spilled. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.

On a pine countertop made of boards, you can and even need to take low-grade cheap boards - knotty, serpentine. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, rot marks on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.

Why is the countertop substandard? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished on a circular and jointer? And after skillful processing of them, plates of remarkable beauty are obtained, on the left in fig. Manufacturers do not like such a tree: the production cycle is delayed, waste increases. But for yourself with your own hands, this is not so scary compared to the result.

wooden humpback

Commercial pine has a clearly defined zoning of wood in the form of annual growth rings; other conifers and many hardwoods also have it. On the saw cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. humpback in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in fig. in the center, then when rallying the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with humps alternately up and down, from below in fig. If the ridges are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with ridges in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the countertop does not split or warp.

Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue

Free means of protecting wood from decay - used motor oil, but for what they eat from, this option is not the best. Optimal will be 2-fold, with a break of 3-5 days, impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE), it will give protection to the table for the entire time of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with WPE is suitable for furniture front panels: it is also varnished on top and does not delaminate.

Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually falling into disuse: they are superior in all respects to acrylic varnishes by water based; in addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 on alcohol are inferior to PVA; however, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them tack-free before joining and holding them under pressure for 1-3 days, but this is acceptable for home production.

Wood for furniture can be pre-tinted and protected with a stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same lacquer and artistic (not paint!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC lacquers and acrylic water-based for the same lacquer.

First, they prepare a “painting”: they take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it with continuous thorough stirring with a paintbrush. The coloring is stored in a tightly closed vial and added to the varnish to the desired tone; a test for it is done on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the rules for mixing oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.

First steps

The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If 1-2 brick pallets remain from the construction site, then the pallet table will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.

From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, it turns out garden table like a magazine, on the left in fig. If there is a pair available, in just half an hour you can make a wall-mounted desktop-rack, in the center and on the right. Chains for it can also be woven yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop, a small tool is placed on a shelf of a wall pallet.

With a little more work, a collapsible cutting table for a summer residence is made from one pallet, which allows you to transfer the summer-autumn harvesting campaign to the street without littering with husks and without trampling on the stumps. For the winter this table is collected in a compact package. The construction is clear from Fig; a bucket is placed under the hatch in the tabletop.

The next in order of complexity is the well-known country table- goats, colloquially a goat. Its construction of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right - a country folding table on the same principle. It has swivel joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on the nails between the crossbars of the table top. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it will also go to a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the countertop can be made longer.

Finally, it also does not require special tools and skills for a gazebo table, see fig. below. Material - the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.

One step closer to art...

To advance in table building, now you need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. A table, in general, consists of a tabletop, its support frame, possibly with niches and / or mechanisms, or simply a plate - underframe - legs, and knots holding everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because. their fastening is the weakest point of the table.

Connections and legs

At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled on a quick-drying glue that does not require exposure: carpentry, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off hats are used to connect thin boards, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.

For dowels, a thin-layered tree is taken stronger than both connected parts, i.e. the hardest rocks. A pine table with birch legs can be joined on oak or beech dowels. On sale there are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels; before use, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, for example. inserts in sliding tables.

Legs for tables industrial production fastened with split sides, see fig. on right. Pos., marked in yellow - the simplest, cheapest and worst. With its shortcomings in the complete absence of advantages, buyers of Shiroptrebov's Soviet furniture are well aware, even if it remains there. Reliable, well-kept, except for the legs, and underframe boards, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require the least cost, but are quite laborious, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. Drawer side with shaped steel jib, top right in the figure, even stronger; in this way it is possible to fasten legs with a round head and in general any, however, purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel are required.

Note: legs are attached to the round table, as shown below in fig.

Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. In a small apartment narrow corridor a table with legs is often simply impossible to push up to the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments more spacious, and in 1-storey private houses the table can be served / given out the window, so in such cases, the strength and durability of the table with tightly fixed legs comes to the fore.

For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in fig. By the way, the tsargs are also one-piece: then the legs with dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the fibers of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that these 200-year-old tables can be fought by grabbing the leg.

Sufficiently high-quality tables on turned legs are assembled simply on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs of a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. So that they do not cling to the floor, you need to stuff the thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.

table top

It is easier, but not the cheapest, to order a laminated worktop. chipboard(chipboard, laminate). Chipboard for countertops is available in the form of the so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m 20-60 mm thick with a decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the bottom face with a drip collector, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is quite environmentally friendly, no matter what gossip does not want to forget the co-furniture, which stank of phenol for months.

Postforming is well bought by small furniture enterprises. They always have his scraps; of them, they will gladly and for a very affordable price cut the tabletop to size, if the company has a jig saw. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be closed, i.e. cover the PVC end with a piping (edge). If you will be edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an awkward surcharge for edging), then keep in mind:

The top and bottom shelves of the edging have different profile, see on the left in fig. Confuse - there will always be a piping of dirt on the table.
Kant must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the plate. It is possible to put on a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm plate, but it will soon slide off.
The groove for the crest of the edge must be selected with a manual disk cutter; saw, it seems that no one has yet succeeded as it should.
Before installing the edging on the surface of the end face is applied thin layer silicone sealant and "sausage" it is squeezed into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also be a lubricant, without which the ridge of the edge can simply be crushed.
The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop must lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately washed with a clean rag slightly moistened with table vinegar.

Plank tabletops are rallied in plank clips with wedges and spacers - wimahs. Wimes are quite possible to make yourself; You need 3-4 for a tabletop. Wym boards (cheeks) are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. On fig. for example - the process of manufacturing a round tabletop; rectangular rally in the same way, only cropping to size is easier. The shield is rallied onto the countertop with glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are grooved, dowels are not needed. When rallying to PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue is tacky before installation in the wyma.

Often, countertops are assembled without a wym on a plaza - a flat surface covered with plastic wrap. It will not work to assemble a good plank shield on the plaza: either it will come out slitted, or the boards will stand on end when assembled. But inlaid countertops from fragments are simply wonderful in skillful hands. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. - a tabletop made of sawing waste, tinted with wood stain. And on pos. 4-5, the base of the tabletop was the plaz itself made of thick plywood. The tile and its break are glued with tile adhesive, then the depressions are filled with grout for drinking, the surface is lacquered and the contour is edged with a wooden lath.

Note: these examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making do-it-yourself inlaid art tabletops.

Underframe

The underframe of the table with non-removable legs is a simple wooden frame, on the left in fig. Niches and details of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/sliding, or heavy operational loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffeners in the center. If the legs are fastened with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the table top, so that a single power circuit is obtained, on the right in fig.

no frame

Tables without underframes are also known, in which the tabletop with legs work in a single carrier system. Very durable, eg. plywood table on the left in pic; its connections are shkantovye. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will go one piece for large sidewalls, and 1 more for smaller ones. The table on the right is already quite possible to make with your own hands: the supporting frame is prefabricated; connections - in a spike with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the countertop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right angles.

... and get into the kitchen

Exactly. The table for the kitchen is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country ones. It must already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average completeness; the width of the seat for 1 eater / rider is 60-80 cm, depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.

All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of chipboard on metal legs; they are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in fig. Factory legs for tables, as a rule, are supplied with height-adjustable heels. The table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the nests of the legs with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% cheaper than the whole purchased one, but in appearance it will not yield, on the right in Fig.

If you are not too lazy to put your hands on it, steel legs can be made with your own hands. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of branded legs are cast from a rather fragile silumin, the fasteners weaken over time, they need to be tightened. You yourself can cut out nests from good steel, and weld your own legs into them.

The kitchen is more spacious, perhaps there is room for a larger table. In such a case - on the trail. rice. drawings of a kitchen table in a rustic style. "Rustic" this table is not only in appearance: it does not have a single nail and metal fasteners in general. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing such, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will have to rally the shields on the sidewalls, but in this case, the extra work is worth it.

Kruglyashi

A table with a round top is appropriate in any room, if it fits there. But the table top made of boards in this case is not the best. the best way: due to the presence of sharp corners, it is without a frame, very complex and time-consuming, subject to splitting. Type-setting countertops from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; unlike laminate rounds, they are decorative, stylish, unique, and practically free.

There are even more sharp corners in a small-type table top, but here the “broom law” works. Not the American senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion of it at home, but the broom with which they sweep the rubbish. As you know, it is impossible to break him (a broom, not a senator) tied up, and a child will break twig after twig. So here, due to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, the table top made of them works like a solid plate, and you can cut it off after assembly even with the letter zyu.

Note: the idea of the senator-broom, sorry, Venik, was suggested by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world-famous as Mark Twain: “I affirm, and undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more fantasies than a bull. But not the bull that lows in the pasture, but the one that is the support of the bridge.

How to make a semi-folding round table, shown in fig; on the right there are the dimensions of the countertop and the assembly order. And in fig. on the right above - a small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - a business card. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; glue assembly. Any kruglyash will go to the countertop, from a stump saw cut to a cardboard one, made according to the method of manufacturing cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (dvuhsotka board) or chipboard.

Moving on to the living room

Table in main room at home should be to face the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves living space costs), the table should not be striking for the time being, and occupy smaller place. Therefore, one of the most sought-after pieces of furniture of our days has become a transforming table.

The simplest transformable table, which, with all its transformations, remains a table, and does not turn into a closet or bed - a bedside table; it is quite possible to make it with your own hands "from scratch". There are 2 most common options here. On the left in fig. - the table is deployable, it has a record ratio of occupied areas in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. By raising the wings one by one, you can get a kitchen or everyday dining table, and fully extended (in the center), it will provide a place for a rather crowded banquet.

A bachelor living in a small apartment is more suitable for a folding bedside table, on the right in fig. It's basically 2 small round folding tables described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch alone from it folded, because, unlike the previous version, there is where to put your legs. And having unrolled, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or sincere gatherings with friends.

All of the above qualities combine coffee-dining tables-transformers with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables that are always tables, they basically come down to 2 types: an elevator (pantograph) and a book. How one and the other work, see the video:

Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although much depends on the quality of execution. It is more popular among book lovers, because the mechanism-book can still be made independently, and the elevator outside the production environment is unlikely.

How the table-book is laid out is shown in stages in fig. on right. For its independent production, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. In fairly expensive branded designs, very soft gas dampers (gas lifts) are used, but it is better for an amateur to stop at a spring damper, and not because a gas lift is much more expensive.

The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the table top, underframe and the own weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened / loosened; in last resort replace. In general, an unsuccessful home-made transforming table with gas lifts rarely manages to be "brought to mind", and spring - almost always. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in fig. - drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.

Without the availability of or access to drilling, turning and milling machines for metal, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. A factory-made transforming coffee table rarely costs less than $200, so even in this situation, the savings are significant.

The transformer table is made under the mechanism. One of the most popular are the Mazetti transformation mechanisms, thanks to good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti movements are available in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. The rest of the pos. in fig. show the device and the dimensions of the table for this mechanism.

For a strong feast

Whatever you say, but in a normal family with children, friends and relatives, crowded gatherings at the table cannot do without, and here the transforming table will not always help out. However, banquet tables for the living room are more or less in full let's leave, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily because of the extension mechanism.

By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the halves of the table top (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable if properly executed, in addition to this, they can be made by yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern sliding mechanisms with telescopic full extension guides, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the capacity of the table by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description of no less voluminous.

There are banquet tables with clamshell inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when sliding / sliding the halves of the table top, the insert lifts, unfolds and puts in place or puts back in the underframe a very complex mechanism, but its manual versions are available for home production.

As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in a computer desk, they cannot be called popular by any means: leaning forward (and how to avoid this if the house is without servants?), We get the board back into the underframe, and our portion of treats - for festive clothes.

But let's not talk about sad things. Recall that the table is not always pushed apart, and you can use the side table, but the whole table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of drawings below - a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and how it looks "live" - see the left in fig. at the beginning.

In addition

A table, and indeed any furniture, often wants to be painted not just with stripes or artistically painted. To protect the drawing from external influences and to ensure the possibility of updating the varnish if necessary, the paints should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by layer-by-layer rubbing of paints is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on wood glazing.

Video: wood glazing master class

In the 40s of the twentieth century, the industrial style of decorating your home became very popular in the United States. It gained popularity due to the lack of affordable affordable housing for ordinary people. In the course for the arrangement were premises that were not originally intended for living - attics, attics, abandoned premises of factories and warehouses. The premises were settled in hastily, therefore they were left in their original form, only slightly made suitable for life. Thus, a new loft style was formed.

The originality of the loft style is that the space, reminiscent of an industrial one, is modern and comfortable.

Soon, creative personalities - artists, artists, owners of spacious country houses - began to decorate their houses and apartments in this style. Loft has existed for over 60 years. It has no territorial and temporal boundaries, because the originality, unusualness of the interiors in this style fits perfectly into the life positions of people who are creative, free in spirit.

The urban loft style in the interior arose as a direction that combines the features of the underground and bohemian

This direction allows you to equip your living space so that it becomes possible to embody the most daring ideas, go beyond what is permitted, stand out with your individuality. There are many people striving for everything unusual, not only in America, but also in Russia there is a large number of followers.

Initially industrial interior in the loft style of the last century - housing for the poor

line up correct interior in the loft style, the introduction of the main elements will help.

Open space without partitions. Enclose only the bathroom, toilet. Even the bedroom is organized on a common territory.
Huge windows to the floor, which are the main source of daylight. As a rule, windows are not covered with curtains.
Massive beams under the ceiling, open ventilation pipes, iron fittings.
The walls are not decorated with wallpaper and decorative plaster. Leave or imitate brickwork, concrete walls. The decoration contains wooden elements, sheets of plywood and aged metal.
The floors are most often left concrete, replaced with old wooden boards. Available in marble slabs.

Modern housing furnished in loft style

The loft is popular due to its versatility.

Within the framework of the style, three main directions were formed.

Bohemian. It is preferred by "creators". Artists and theater-goers hold fashion shows, theatrical shows, place art galleries. In personal interiors, it is used more and more often.
Bohemian Loft in interior design

Loft-boho assumes the maximum preservation of the theme of the industrial premises in the decoration, but the furnishings are made in a colorful style.
Glamorous. It differs from others in a more delicate color palette. Heavy iron beams and brick walls are mixed with graceful chandeliers and baroque furniture.
Loft glamor - the usual stone-wood and pastel shades diluted with a bold combination of gray and lilac, pink and turquoise

Glamorous loft provides an emphasis on lighting
Industrial. The most popular. To implement this direction, the space is filled with elements resembling a workshop, warehouse space with the effect of not quite habitable space. Here it would be appropriate to make do-it-yourself loft-style furniture, ventilation forks, external wiring, chains, a combination of rough wood, aged iron and raw stone. Everything is simple, without excessive embellishment.
Industrial loft - housing is diluted with elements of factory equipment

Suitable for an industrial loft simple furniture with correct geometry no extra elements

Spacious common space without partitions, with high ceilings, visually divided into zones. It must necessarily retain the characteristic features of a large factory premises without traces of fresh finishes.
Walls decorated with author's paintings, paintings by unknown modernist and expressionist artists, unusual posters, photographs.
Designer furniture, sculptures, musical instruments. Furniture in the setting, choose vintage or artificially aged, with traces of wear. Most of the elements can be made with your own hands from improvised materials. Will go into action wooden pallets, vintage boards, pipes and metal elements- bed parts, spinning wheels, sewing machines, wire spools and even barrels.

We delimit space: how to place accents?

The white loft in the interior is quite original - pastel colors soften the excessive expressiveness of the situation, and it becomes light and airy

As mentioned above, a characteristic feature of the industrial style is a spacious, single room, divided into zones. With the help of pieces of furniture, light screens, carpets on the floor, we highlight the boundaries.

A beautiful bar counter with a countertop made of a single piece of wood or stone will help separate the kitchen from the dining room. Open shelving will visually hide the bedroom from the living room. The loft is attractive because it combines old and new, luxury with the ugliness of unplastered walls.

Loft style involves the use of furniture not only for its intended purpose, but also to separate one functional area from another.

Furniture in this design plays an important role. With its help, accents are placed. Playing with style, it is not necessary to rush to purchase designer furnishings. You can make them with your own hands, because the essence of it lies in the fact that the environment should first of all be functional, and only then beautiful.

Homemade wooden cabinet for a loft-style bedroom

Materials needed to make furniture

When we decided on the style of the house, we thought color scheme and the interior as a whole, we choose furnishings that emphasize it. It is not necessary that all products be made to order or purchased. You can make a couple of items yourself, using literally everything that is at hand. It can be pipes, old boards, concrete elements.

The most popular materials used in this direction are the following.

Natural aged wood.
Metal and stone.
Glass.
Leather, textiles - in the upholstery of upholstered furniture.
Plastic imitating wood, marble.

Sofa and bed: DIY

Wooden pallets are great for DIY furniture

The central element of the living room, no doubt, is the sofa. You can make it yourself using wooden pallets that will go to the frame. Assemble the shape of the sofa, sand the surface, sew soft pillows and a mattress. Lay on the frame, and make shelves for books and magazines in the armrests. It will be inexpensive and effective.

Pallets are also useful for making beds. Three pallets for a bed of standard sizes will be enough. Making it, following certain recommendations, will be easy. This is done in several stages:

There is another interesting option - a podium bed. It can be embedded additional places storage. It is made of plywood or boards, painted or varnished.

Shelving and coffee table: to make quickly and cheaply!

Shelves and open shelves made by hand will perfectly “flow” into the interior. The metal thin frame of the rack, painted black, looks beautiful. It is this color that makes it almost invisible. Shelves are made from solid pine, oak. To emphasize the structure of the tree, treat the shelves with a tinting compound. Fill the shelves with books, photo frames, vases and designer accessories.

Assembling the table frame

Loft-styled furniture in stores is expensive. Rectangular coffee table price metal frame high.

Attaching the leg brackets

To make it yourself, you need to take only two boards of the right size, four bars or metal pipes for legs, screws, varnish, stain. You can make a tabletop from a pallet. Screw it to the base of the wheel and the table is ready.

Fixing table legs to the base

We paint or cover with stain, and then with varnish

Do not limit the flight of your imagination, feel free to combine the incongruous, mixing styles and color solutions. Everything is possible in Loft, and you need to use it!

Ready coffee table in the interior

Video: Do-it-yourself loft-style table. DIY furniture.

Landscaping is an ongoing process. You build something, you improve it. Moreover, furniture is constantly required and tables are most in demand in the country. And put in the garden, and near the house, and also in. How to make a table for a summer residence with your own hands we will tell in this article using the example of finished projects.

Homemade table from boards from pallets

Dismantled pallets served as the material for this table. Naturally, you can use new boards. Only one condition - they must be dry. You can buy dry ones (it costs more) or buy ordinary ones, put them somewhere in ventilated piles and soak for at least 4 months, or better, six months. In general, any furniture, including, is made from dry wood.

We assemble the table for the street - put it in the gazebo, therefore we will not glue the tabletop boards, but fasten them from below, with the help of planks. This is a very simple country table and very cheap.

Having dismantled the pallets, we get boards with an individual color and pattern. Having conjured a little, shifting them several dozen times in different manners, we achieve the desired result. It turns out quite a nice table.

We take the side parts of the pallet. We use them for the frame of the table. We grind them first with coarse sandpaper, then finely bring them to the required smoothness (grain 120 and 220).

We take the strips that remained unused, with their help we fasten the countertop. We place them in the place where the joints of the boards are located. We use two self-tapping screws for fastening each board with a joint, one for a solid one.

From the processed sidewalls and two boards (also sanded), we assemble the table frame. We fix its parts with self-tapping screws at the end (two for each joint). The frame can be glued or also “planted” on self-tapping screws. Only their length is large. Under each, we pre-drill holes with a drill, the diameter of which is slightly smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screws.

We turn the assembled countertop over and grind it. The order is the same - first with sandpaper with a large grain, then with a fine one.

Next up is installing the legs. We select four boards of the same size, check their length, adjust if necessary. Then again grinding. It's easier than sanding already screwed legs. We fasten the sanded boards to the frame. These will be the legs. For each - two self-tapping screws fixed in a diagonal (look at the photo). For greater stability, we install jumpers at the bottom. About 10 cm can be left from the floor to the jumpers. We connect everything with self-tapping screws so that the boards do not crack, we pre-drill holes.

After removing the dust, varnish again. In theory, the varnish should lie flat, but depends on the wood, so another sanding / painting cycle may be necessary. As a result, we get such a homemade country table.

If you do not like motley boards and traces of old nails, you can make their boards the same design. This table can be rectangular, maybe square. All dimensions are arbitrary - see the available space.

Country table from the remnants of the boards

This do-it-yourself dacha table is assembled from the remnants of boards different breeds and sizes. Pine boards 25 mm thick and 50 mm wide went to the frame of the tabletop, the remains of 15 * 50 mm were left on the legs. We make the frame according to the dimensions you need. This table will stand on the veranda, and it has a small width. So let's make it not wide - 60 cm, and the length is 140 cm. The height of the legs is 80 cm (everyone in the family is tall).

We immediately cut off two long boards of 140 cm each. To make the width of the table top 60 cm, subtract twice the thickness of the board used - this is 5 cm. Short bars should be 60 cm - 5 cm = 55 cm. Fold the frame, following the right angles, twist with screws. We check whether the bars are folded correctly - we measure the diagonals, they should be the same.

We cut off the boards four boards of 80 cm each, fasten them from the inside to the assembled frame. You can use 4 screws for each leg.

Approximately at the middle of the height of the legs we fasten the crossbars. This is a shelf frame. The shelf can be used for its intended purpose, and it also increases the rigidity of the structure. We fasten strictly at right angles, checking with a large square.

We put the frame on the floor, check whether it staggers or not. If everything is done correctly, it should stand rigidly. Next, take sandpaper or a grinder and grind.

Let's start assembling the countertop. From finishing works there were boards of different types of wood, some painted with wood stain. We alternate boards of different colors.

We fasten the tabletop boards with finishing nails, carefully finishing them with a finisher. On the shelf can be fixed with ordinary nails or self-tapping screws. Then smooth with a grinder. The last step is painting. Very unlucky with the choice of varnish. Bought too dark, did not like the look. Will have to sand again and paint a different color.

Wooden table with glued top

This design features L-shaped legs. They are assembled from boards of the same thickness. In this case, 20 mm. To keep them well, 5 self-tapping screws are needed. Pre-drill holes with a drill with a diameter of 1-2 mm less than the diameter of the self-tapping screws. Then, with a larger diameter drill, we drill recesses for the hats. Diameter can be matched to furniture plugs suitable color or make them from a wooden rod. Another option is to use wood putty, to which you add wood dust that remains after sanding. After drying and sanding, traces will be difficult to find.

When assembling the legs, make sure that the angle is exactly 90°. As a pattern, you can choose a bar. First, we coat the joint of the two parts of the leg with carpentry glue, then install the screws in the following sequence: first the two extreme ones, then the middle one, and only then the other two. After the glue dries, sand the legs, varnish and dry.

It's time to make the table top. It is assembled from boards of the same thickness. Pick up the size you need. You can use fragments of different widths. It is only important that everything looks organic, and the sidewalls of the boards are even and docked without gaps.

We coat the sides of the boards selected for the table top with glue, lay them on a flat surface (some kind of table) and tighten them with clamps. In this case, they managed one, but preferably at least three. We tighten so that there are no gaps in the resulting shield. We leave for a day. Having removed the clamps, we get an almost finished countertop. It still needs to be trimmed - to align the edges, and then sand it. You can trim with a jigsaw or a regular hand saw. Using a grinder is difficult to get a straight line, but you can try. After grinding, we get a beautiful countertop.

Using the same technique, you can make an oval or round countertop. It will only be necessary to draw the appropriate line and cut the glued boards along it.

To make the table look more attractive, we will make a frame. We take a thin bar, process it with sandpaper and fasten it around the perimeter of the countertop. Finishing nails can also be used. Only the planks are also pre-lubricated with carpentry glue, and then with nails.

After the glue dries, we again process the junction with sandpaper.

Now you can attach the table legs. We assemble a table frame from four boards (there is no photo, but you can do it as in the previous paragraph). We attach it to back side countertops on glue, then through the countertop we install furniture confirmations. Under the confirmations, a preliminary hole is drilled with an extension for the cap. Holes for fasteners are masked in the same way as on the legs.

We attach the legs to the fixed frame. We put them inside the frame. You can attach with ordinary screws. That's it, we made a table for giving with our own hands.

How to make a wooden garden table with benches

For this table, boards of 38 * 89 mm were used (they dissolved them themselves), but you can take standard sizes. The difference in millimeters will not really affect the results. In the photo below you can see what should happen.

To connect the parts, studs 16 cm long with washers and nuts (24 pieces) were used. All other connections are made with nails 80 mm long.

The parts are installed in place, a through hole is drilled with a drill. A stud is installed in it, washers are put on both sides and nuts are tightened. Everything is tightened with a wrench. How convenient is this option? For the winter, you can disassemble and take it to a barn or garage.

Making seats

We cut the boards according to the drawing required size. Everything is necessary in double quantity - for two seats. We grind the boards, pay special attention to the ends.

We cut the short segments with which we fasten the three seat boards along the edges at an angle of 45 °. First, we assemble a structure that is attached to the seat from below. We take a board about 160 cm long, at the end we attach two short boards cut at an angle to it. Attach it so that this board is in the middle.

Then we attach the legs to the resulting structure (you can use nails). Then we add more boards cut at an angle and tighten everything with studs and bolts.

We attach the seat boards to the resulting structure. Since this is a table for the street, it is not necessary to knock them down close. Leave a gap between two adjacent at least 5 mm. We nail to the supports (which are cut down), two for each board.

We fix the finished seats with four boards 160 cm long. We fasten each leg with studs (if you walk, you can put two studs by setting them diagonally or one above the other).

Putting together a table

The table is assembled in a different way. Please note that for the countertop, the transverse boards are sawn along the edges at 52 °. We fasten them at such a distance that the legs enter. Each board has 2 nails. You can finish, with small hats, or you can hammer deep, and then mask the holes with putty.

Now we need to assemble the legs-crosses. We take two boards, cross them so that the distance between their ends is 64.5 cm. We circle the intersection with a pencil. At this point, it will be necessary to remove the wood by half the thickness of the board.

We make the same notch on the second board. If you add them together, they are in the same plane. We connect with four nails.

Similarly, we make the second leg for the table. While the table is not collected.

Installing the table

Now you need to fix the legs to the structure on which the benches are installed. We put them at an equal distance from the benches, fasten them with hairpins.

Now install the table top. We also fasten it with studs. The last step is painting. Here everyone does as he likes.

Variations on a theme

According to this drawing, you can make benches and a table separately for giving, garden. The design is reliable and easy to implement.

Do-it-yourself table for giving: drawings

In the 40s of the last century, the loft architectural style began to gain popularity in the United States. It originates in the industrial areas of New York, where a lot of industrial premises were abandoned by their owners due to rising land prices. The bohemians were the first to notice them and, after the purchase, they began to use the abandoned factory buildings to create housing and place furniture. It turned out cheaply and tastefully, which allowed the style to remain popular until today. Now such an arrangement of an apartment is very popular, and do-it-yourself loft-style furniture is great for both private houses and offices.

When creating loft-style furniture, materials are used that usually go to a landfill during a major overhaul. This explains her low cost. Old metal pipes and rough-hewn boards in skillful hands will turn into magnificent loft-style designer items. The only limitation when choosing a material is the overall style of the house. Loft furniture should emphasize it, so you have to think about the color scheme and the overall interior. Wood and metal are the most used materials in the loft. The elements of decor are things made of concrete or roughly hewn stone. There is no need to purchase noble materials like marble for decoration. Plastic is an undesirable raw material, because it does not correspond to the style direction. Loft originates in industrial premises, so the material should be similar to that used in the design of industrial buildings. However, it is not always possible to find deck boards or metal barrels. Then the thing can be artificially aged, giving it a casual look.

The easiest way to make loft-style sofas, beds, ottomans and tables for various purposes. To create the first two, you will need used varnished pallets. It will be enough to put pillows and a mattress on top. Can be used as a bed frame metal constructions found, for example, at a local factory. If there is sufficient skill in working with metal, then they can be altered to your taste, covered with a cloth. Deck boards will be custom and original choice as the basis for a loft-style bed. The sofa can also have a similar design, but also have its own characteristics. For example, metal barrels are suitable for the base. The top is carefully cut off, the surface is polished, then the sofa is filled with a durable substance and soft pillows are placed on top.

Ottomans are obtained from pallets, metal or wooden barrels, industrial mechanisms, even old suitcases. Tables can also be made from anything, the main thing is that there is enough imagination and skills. Everything will be used - from old boards and solid layers of wood to frames sewing machines. Even wooden cable spools can be turned into a stylish coffee table.

What can be made

There is no such furniture in the loft style that could not be made independently. Moreover, these can be the designs of the most different sizes and appointments.

pallet bed

This option is increasingly becoming popular due to two factors - originality and cheapness. Pallets can be purchased for 100-150 rubles, and the most expensive part of the structure will be the mattress. It is best to purchase pallets with the EUR / EPAL marking. Thanks to high quality they will last longer. Often, new or used pallets are in a damp state. Therefore, you should first sand them with sandpaper and paint. Can be left natural look, using wood impregnation, or you can experiment with color. The originality of the composition of the loft depends on the ability to find a use for things that are no longer new. If the budget is limited, the pallet is made by hand from the boards, but there will be more hassle. In addition, these beds have one major drawback - the inconvenience of cleaning. However, it will not be so important for true connoisseurs of the loft.

For a standard pallet bed you will need:

three pallets sized 120x80;
primer and paint on wood;
roller and brush for coloring;
grinder and sandpaper.

First you need to go through wooden surface grinder, and those places where she did not get it, level with sandpaper. Then the pallets are wiped with a damp cloth. Next comes the woodworking with primer and paint. If necessary, apply two layers. The pallets are then stacked one by one to form a bed frame. In conclusion, it remains to put a mattress and pillows on top. There is a more functional option with niches. To create such a bed, eight pallets and an additional wood drill will be required. First, you need to remove the extra boards so that niches for the boxes form when applied. The process is then repeated: cleaning grinder or sandpaper, wiping with a damp cloth, primer and paint. It is recommended to leave the pallets to dry overnight. Photos of pallet loft beds can be found below.

Draft assembly

The basis of the future bed

Installing pallets on the base

From above the base is upholstered soft cloth or carpet

table

The design of a standard loft style table, which is sold in a store, is very simple - wooden table top on a metal frame in the form of a parallelepiped. But such elementality hides a considerable price, so it is best to do such a thing with your own hands. For this you need:

two fir boards measuring 250 * 15 centimeters;
three pine beams 250 * 5 centimeters;
30 7 cm screws;
grinder or sandpaper;
drill;
dark walnut and ebony wood stain;
polyurethane varnish.

Before assembly, you can make drawings on the computer.

The process is as follows: first, the frame is assembled with the help of screws. It is recommended to pre-drill holes for fasteners in each corner. Then the boards are polished, and the countertop is impregnated with "dark walnut". The frame for the table is treated in two layers with "ebony" to give it a metallic look. Using twelve screws, the tabletop is attached to the frame. Then the table is turned over and three screws are screwed into each board from the inside out.

Instruments

Fixing leg corners

Leg attachment

Bedside table

Probably the easiest loft-style piece of furniture to make is a bedside table. It can be made from metal racks or handles, but sometimes a painted metal barrel is enough. Sometimes, for the sake of the industrial roots of the loft style, the role of a bedside table is played by two cinder blocks placed together. The main thing is that the material makes one of the most expressive parts of the interior from the simplest element of furniture. In addition to originality, a bedside table can have many functions. To make it, you need pine boards, two pieces of pipe with a diameter of half an inch, four wheels for furniture:

first, the side parts of the cabinet are assembled. Small strips with pre-prepared holes are attached to each other with glue;
two holes are made on each of the boards. Before that, you should check them for a match in size - they must be the same;
two boards are screwed to the middle and bottom shelf. In order for them to be the same, planks are attached to the middle;
the lower part is installed under the side bases with glue and euro screws;
the remaining strips are installed on the sidewalls from above. The top shelf is assembled from three boards;
holes prepared in advance are filled with a special composition;
defects on the walls should be removed with sandpaper;
the nightstand is covered with stain and left to dry. After applying one layer of varnish;
when it dries, wheels are installed on the screws with glue at the bottom of the tube.

wooden pallets

Bedside table width

Finished frame for the frame

Grinding workpieces

Table top assembly

Wall mounting

Making a box

Finished box

Shelf making

Cutting a hole in the shape of a heart

Closet

The largest piece of furniture on this list. For its manufacture, wood and metal are best suited. A great addition would be to use two types of wood. The standard will be redundant. decorative ornaments, especially in the form of flowers or ornaments. Loft is an industrial style, and “tenderness” in the ornament will be inappropriate. If the cabinet has mirrors, then they should be decorated in a classic way or in the form of fragments. Some decor is allowed, but it must be industrial. For example, doors made in the form of wooden shutters. Loft-style wardrobes can be:

case - have a full-fledged frame, they are not particularly difficult to move;
built-in - they make the most practical use of space and do not contain walls. Perfect for small apartments
semi-embedded - part of the frame, for example, a wall, is missing;
diagonal - well suited for dwellings with a large area;
trapezoidal - the side wall will be smaller than the other. The cupboard is turned by it towards the doorway.

Sometimes you don't have to do it all over again. Normal old wardrobe decorated with metal staples or rivets, which makes it look like steel doors at the factory. Nails with decorative caps are well suited for this purpose.

In addition to metal fixtures, staining and subsequent wrapping with a cloth are suitable. In the photo, the loft closet is guaranteed to look like a passage on a warship. To give style features, you don’t have to do a complete rework, just add a few details. For example, from an old barn or abandoned construction site, you can take a wooden ladder, clean it and use it for tall cabinets.

The photographs show the above-described pieces of furniture in the loft style. They will help you understand what this direction is. Special attention you should pay attention to the description of the pallet, which can be useful if the furniture elements of the loft are made independently.

built-in

Wardrobe

For starters, amateur self-manufacturing furniture, it is worth learning how to create a stool, because this is the easiest. And then comes the time to study the issue of creating a table.

Table designs vary, however, the simple version is very similar to the process of making a stool.

A simple table for use in the country or during a picnic can be assembled in just a few hours. To do this, you need a hacksaw, hammer or drill.

However, a table based on a similar approach can also be made for living quarters. Because it is able to perfectly replace the current very large version bought at a retail outlet or furniture store.

The process of self-creation of the table is also interesting from the other side, since with the help of it there is freedom of the author's creative expression. It can be imagined as a noticeable element of the interior of the room.

The creators of handmade amateur furniture are called carpenters for a reason. They do not apply the usual definition like: sofas or bedside tables, or maybe cabinets.

Having gained experience in this area, over time it will be possible to create exclusive types of tables with advanced characteristics.

Now consider the issue of self-creation of tables based on wood.

Wood is distinguished by its purity and availability, in addition, it is not as difficult to process as other materials. It conveys the maximum energy of the aesthetic filling of the style of the living room.

Due to its properties, it is condescending to the mistakes of beginners in the field of self-creation of furniture. However, thinner versions of the tables will require an advanced level of skill.

To begin with, having learned how to work with wooden things, then it will be easier to use as a material: glass, plastic or even metal.

Selection of tools and premises for work

To engage in independent creation of tables or other wooden elements furniture, it is necessary to use only non-residential premises.

This is due to the specifics of working with wood. It leads to the formation a large number dust, shavings and other waste.

And the process of toning or creating protection for a stain-based material can form dangerous emissions into the air. Actually, nitro-varnishes can also be dangerous.

Because of this, for a personal carpentry workshop, you will have to take care of airing the room. Experts advise creating artificial ventilation of the room.

Many people use the garage for this, however, production waste can pollute or damage the car because of this, this is not the best option.

Carpentry tools belong to modern and traditional types

For the most part, you can start with a simple carpentry tool, however, later modern versions may be required in the form of:

A rotary version of the miter box, which helps to create saw cuts based on two planes, adhering to the required size.

This tool will open all your beneficial features, primarily with a bow saw. This couple is considered universal, it can be useful for many jobs.

A manual version of the universal electric jigsaw, featuring a tilting shoe to help create cuts based on the desired angle in relation to the vertical plane.

Disc version of the grinder. It will help beginners complete the surface treatment of wood in about 5-15 minutes. An experienced carpenter, along with sandpaper, can do the same job in about an hour.

And there is also a conventional belt grinder for grooves with recessed places, which is distinguished by a protruding version of the working part.

Such tools are distinguished by the price and narrow specialization of the work performed, experienced craftsmen recommend to take them for a short rental period.

The best specialists, using various sanding machines, can even create the effect of artificial aging of wood, however, this is a very difficult job, as for beginners.

Which tree is the best?

For creating wooden table Any wood that has an average resistance to decay will work well, however, you should refrain from softer versions like: poplar, willow, ailanthus, aspen, and even alder.

From domestic types of wood it is best to use:

soft options in the form of pine, fir, cedar, horse chestnut, plane tree, juniper or spruce.

solid in the form of an ideal oak, suitable for many works of beech, maple, walnut or ash, larch, as well as fruit species represented by apples, plums, pears, apricots and quince. And also here it is worth including elm and mountain ash.

rather hard species based on acacia, yew, stone birch, dogwood and boxwood.

Conclusion

You want to decorate the table and probably all types of furniture created by yourself with an artistic version of the painting, and not with ordinary stripes.

However, over time, the pattern may deteriorate, so that this does not happen, it is necessary to rub the paint into the depth of the tree before the varnishing process. This can be done on the basis of technology - glazing. It's about about layer-by-layer rubbing of the paints used.

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