How to make a round table Do-it-yourself round table - a historical attribute of family furniture

Make a dining round table with your own hands, and you will not only replenish the house with a new piece of furniture, but also improve relationships. Psychologists note that the absence of corners, together with the equidistant position of all those seated, contribute to a special trusting comfortable atmosphere of communication. Unfortunately, the round shape is not the most ergonomic for a small space filled with other items. But if you make a table yourself, then you have the opportunity to adjust the size for a specific area of \u200b\u200bthe room.

Today, in the production of tables, traditional wood materials, metal, glass, plastic, etc. are widely used. timber (not less than 50 mm) or metal for the supporting structure.

The generally accepted parameters for the height of kitchen tables are in the range from 750 to 800 mm.

When preparing a drawing, it is necessary to take into account all the vertical dimensions of the structure: the legs themselves, the connecting structure, the thickness of the tabletop. But the diameter of the countertop itself depends on the tasks and conditions of the room where the product will be located.

What is the main thing on the table? A solid, smooth table top and a solid base that can support its weight and everything on it. Although other characteristics are also important, for example, the quality of the coating. It must be resistant to abrasion, scratching, moisture and temperature, etc. The proposed round table model is designed to meet all the necessary requirements.

In the work on creating a wooden table, we will use the following tools:

electric jigsaw;
screwdriver or drill;
grinding machine (or grinding nozzle for a drill);
wood screws and confirmations;
multi-stage drill for holes for confirmations;
edge tape if you are using chipboard;
tinting for wood in the color of chipboard;
varnish for finishing coating of wooden parts.

The round table will be made from:

sheet of chipboard or birch plywood 150x150 cm - table top;
a sheet of laminated chipboard or birch plywood 128x128 cm - a binding disc;
4 bars 12x5x75 cm, 2 planks measuring 111x12x2.5 - legs.

Without special mechanisms and experience, it is difficult to independently cut the table top and disc for connection with the table leg from sheets of solid material. Therefore, it is better to contact a professional, providing him with the required measurements and drawings. The diameter of the large table top circle is 128 cm, and the base circle is 104 cm.

Those who love strong and simple furniture, the reliability of which has been tested for many decades, will undoubtedly like the Provence style table. Also, its advantage is the material of manufacture - natural wood. Tabletop diameter is 48 inches (121.92 cm), table height is 30 inches (76.2 cm).

Before you make a round table, be sure to prepare the necessary set of tools:

roulette;
grinder with nozzles of different grain sizes;
electric drill;
electric jigsaw;
miter saw, can be replaced with a circular saw;
if possible, use a modern device that helps fix joints, workpieces, and carry out the most complex fastenings with self-tapping screws;
screws 7-8 cm;
screws 6 cm;
screws 3 cm;
confirmations 6.3 cm;
glue, finishing materials for wood.

If you have the opportunity and sufficient work experience, cut the blanks of the specified parameters from lumber (plywood, wooden boards and timber). Color drawings show the location of parts in the product, study them carefully.

1 piece of the central support 4x4x23.25 inches (10.16x10.16x59.055 cm);
1 part of the upper cross of the support 2x4x43 inches (5.08x10.16x109.22 cm);
2 parts of the upper cross of the support 2x4x19 inches (5.08x10.16x48.26 cm);
1 part of the lower cross of the support 2x6x18.5 inches (5.08x15.24x46.99 cm);
4 base parts for the lower part of the support 1x6x6.5 inches (2.54x15.24x16.51 cm);

8 rafters 2x4x14 inches (5.08x10.16x35.56 cm);
2 tabletop mounting segments 2x6x6.5 inches (5.08x15.24x16.51 cm);

The dimensions of the blanks for the countertop do not match the parameters of the scheme. After mounting on a plywood sheet, they will be cut to give the countertop a round shape.

Assemble the base base. Fasten the halves of the crosses to the central whole part of the leg, use glue and 3 euro screws for each connection. Also with confirmations, with glue, attach the lower segments of the base (red).

You can purchase a pre-made countertop or use a part from an old table. In this case, you can install the circle on the finished base, align the position. After that, proceed to attaching the tabletop to the upper crosspiece with confirmations. Screw in 3 for each connection. Don't forget to reinforce the bond further with glue.
The wooden table is assembled, you can start finishing. First of all, fill in the bumps and indentations from the confirmations with a special filler.
After drying, carefully sand the entire product. Use the coarse grit attachment first, then move on to finer grit.
Cover the round table with several layers of varnish. 1-2 applications will emphasize the beauty and texture of wood, 3-4 will give a glossy shine to surfaces. Instead of varnish, at the request of the master, the table can be painted or decorated in any chosen way.

The circle is a perfect figure. That is why it has the largest number of analogues in wildlife - the sun, the moon, fruits and vegetables, round in section, annual rings that are present on trees when they are cut. Psychologists note that this harmonious form contributes to the psychological comfort of each person. To create an informal, relaxed atmosphere, it is no coincidence that round tables are used at negotiations and business meetings. Such an item will perfectly fit into any interior, and it does not matter if it is a spacious living room or a small kitchen. Due to the absence of sharp corners, such tables look elegant, but are also expensive. To acquire such an interesting piece of furniture and save money, you can make a round table with your own hands. In today's article, we will tell you how to prepare all the necessary details and assemble such a design from the most popular materials.

Varieties of round tables

It may immediately seem that making round tables with your own hands is a simple matter, but in reality there are many nuances that should be taken into account. It would seem that there is an ordinary round tabletop on the most ordinary legs. But modern manufacturers offer a huge selection of such products, so it is very difficult to decide on any one option.

supports

Maximum attention, of course, is paid to the number of supports. There are several options here:

large central cabinet or leg;
three or four legs;
several legs in the middle.

Equipment

But the design differences of round tables are not limited to only the number of supports. The structure may have:

cabinet;
shelves;
superstructures;
drawers.

Important! Like structures of a different form, they can be sliding, folding, transforming. On sale you can even find a barbecue table or a bonfire product, a card table, folding or in the form of a book.

Base materials

Naturally, the material from which the product is made is of great importance:

In the classic version, this is a wood massif. Wooden furniture looks solid, beautiful, fits perfectly into modern and classic interiors.
Less commonly, for their production, ordinary and laminated chipboard, plywood, MDF, artificial or natural stone, plastic, glass, and metal are used.

How to make your own round wooden table?

Have you decided to take on the job yourself and make a round table with your own hands out of wood? Drawings are the most important thing you will need, in addition, you should decide on its dimensions, because it can be large, medium or small. Everything here depends on what you want to get as a result - a coffee table or a dining table. It also takes into account such an important factor as the dimensions of the room.

We will give an example of making a small wooden table with three legs.

Work materials

It is necessary to prepare such tools and materials:

Boards.
Bar.
Special wood glue.
Metal corners, at the rate of 3 pieces for each leg.
Self-tapping screws.
Waterproof impregnation for wood processing.
Ruler.
Pencil.
Roulette.
Peel.
Electric jigsaw.
Screwdriver or screwdriver.
Drill and drill.
Brushes.
Clamps.
Sander and sandpaper.
Construction circle.

Assembly

Make the table according to the following scheme:

Coat the sides of the boards with carpentry glue, attach them to each other. Fasten the structure with clamps.

Important! To further strengthen the table, fasten the boards with slats from the wrong side.

Draw a circle for the tabletop using a building compass. If you didn’t have it, then you can use the following scheme: screw two bars with a self-tapping screw at the right angle, attach an awl to one bar with tape, and a pencil to the other bar. Then draw a line, measure the resulting circle with a ruler.
Carefully cut out the resulting circle with an electric jigsaw.
With a grinder, process all surfaces of the countertop. This must be done very carefully so as not to miss anything. Clean the edges of the table with sandpaper. It is important that there are no chips on the ends and the countertop.
Round the bottom and top edges of the edges of the countertop.
Make the legs out of timber. Cut them to a length of 70 cm, then sand with a machine and sand. Round corners.
Attach a metal corner to each leg on three sides. They must be fixed in the same plane. To do this, you should put the leg on a flat surface to the countertop with the place of attachment. Attach the corners and mark their location with a pencil. Attach the corners to the leg with self-tapping screws. Do all the steps with each leg.
On the countertop, mark the location of all the legs. To make sure that it is in full compliance, you can turn the table top over, then put it on its legs. Attach the legs to the tabletop with screws.
Make jumpers from the bars of the same size, attach them to the legs with self-tapping screws.
Treat all elements of the product twice with water-repellent impregnation. Cover it with varnish in several layers.

So you learned how to make a round table out of wood with your own hands. If you stick to this scheme, then everything will certainly work out. You can leave its surface natural, decorate or just slightly emphasize the beauty of natural wood.

How to make a glass round table with your own hands?

If you are tired of the classics, you may like the following master class, which will describe how to make a round table with your own hands from glass.

As for the glass itself:

Basically, for the manufacture of such structures, shockproof tempered glass with a minimum thickness of 5 mm is used. This material is able to withstand a huge load - in order to break it, you will have to deliver a strong point blow to the rib. In addition, tempered glass does not shatter into small pieces, it falls in rectangular pieces that are not dangerous to humans. But to work with it, you need special equipment.
At home it is better to use triplex, tinted, frosted or ordinary glass.

Important! If you have never cut it, then it is better to entrust this work to a professional so that he cuts the countertop of the required diameter.

You need to do the following to get a beautiful glass round table:

Draw a circle on a sheet of glass with a compass, sticking a suction cup right in the middle, sticking a needle in its center.

Important! You can also use a template cut out from a sheet of paper. You just need to attach it to the material and circle it with a marker.

Turn the glass over to the front side, carefully clean from dirt. Wipe it with a microfiber or cotton cloth. Make sure the surface is perfectly dry and clean.
Lay the glass on a hard, flat surface, move its edge close to the edge of the surface. Start cutting from the farthest point of the resulting circle.

Important! Cut in one continuous motion.

Lay a soft cloth or towel under the circle, carefully break off the structure.
Sand the edge under running water to soften the machining. If large notches have formed, then you can remove them with a file. Sand the rest with sandpaper.
To grind the surface, use a grinder or drill. Glue coarse grit sandpaper to the nozzle. Go around and finish sanding with fine grit sandpaper. Round the edges of the bottom and top.
Use polishing paste or a felt wheel to polish the countertop. If you prefer frosted glass, then the paste is not required for polishing.
Table supports can be made from chrome-plated legs with nickels, which are glued to the table top with special glue, then fixed with an ultraviolet lamp. In principle, using this method, you can fix the legs from any other material.

Important! Before you make a round table, decide on the option of attaching the legs, because you will have to prepare the necessary materials and tools in advance. You can use another method - make a circle of the same diameter as the countertop from chipboard, insert screws with suction cups into it around the entire perimeter. Such a connection holds much better if gluing is not done with ordinary glue, but with a special one for ultraviolet lamps.

The table is the second object after the stool, which a novice furniture maker should take up. The design of a simple table is no more complicated than that of a stool; an unpretentious comfortable table for a summer cottage or for a picnic can be built in half a day using a hacksaw, a hammer and a drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly ennobled can also look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensively purchased one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative self-expression, it can be a significant and even key element of interior design, it is not for nothing that handicraft furniture makers are called carpenters, and not sofa makers, cabinetrs or bedside tables. Having mastered the carpentry craft, it will be possible to take up exclusive tables over time, the rest of the poses. there.

This article discusses how to make tables out of wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic qualities. In utilitarian products, she forgives rather gross mistakes for beginners, but fine woodwork requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, then mastering glass, metal and plastic will be much easier.

Tool and workshop

To make a table with your own hands, you need a production room separate from the living rooms: woodwork, as you know, is dusty. In addition, such good means of toning and protecting wood as wood stains emit harmful fumes during staining; nitro-varnishes, too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, and preferably with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and they will not benefit the car. Better to work in the barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, but on the farm it will come in handy for a lot of things.

The usual carpentry tool, on the left in the figure, is enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better if modern achievements are brought to the rescue, right there:

Swivel miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make saw cuts exactly in size and in angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with a complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work will be more accurate. The miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
Also universal is a manual electric jigsaw with an inclined shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, it makes it possible for a beginner to get the surface of a wooden plate in 5-15 minutes, on which an experienced carpenter with a skin in his hand will take at least an hour, and tape, pos. 5, also quickly and efficiently process the ends; there are also belt grinders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders; artificially aging, a tree, but this is a delicate work.
It is also preferable at first to rent a manual wood router, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges, choose holes and grooves.

A universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on a table, powered by 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines a circular saw, planer, wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just grind the table legs on it, the tailstock caliper overhang is too small. But the caliper itself is just a steel round pipe, it is not difficult to lengthen it. The stop of the cutter remains regular, it is mobile, the leg and with a long caliper are sharpened in one setting.

How to choose a tree?

A wooden table can be made from any wood of medium resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Of the domestic ones, these include:

The rocks are listed in order of availability. For example, horse chestnut, sycamore and juniper are not harvested at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in the southern regions, while juniper is endangered and protected. Industrial blanks of elm are almost completely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and mountain ash - for weapons stocks; There is no full-fledged plastic replacement for them yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, does not renew well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and the wood is expensive.

Note: walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent viscosity, the most openwork walnut carving does not prick. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.

At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. Pine or oak will go to the countertop; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop, it is strongly warped from the spilled. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.

On a pine countertop made of boards, you can and even need to take low-grade cheap boards - knotty, serpentine. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, rot marks on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.

Why is the countertop substandard? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished on a circular and jointer? And after skillful processing of them, plates of remarkable beauty are obtained, on the left in fig. Manufacturers do not like such a tree: the production cycle is delayed, waste increases. But for yourself with your own hands, this is not so scary compared to the result.

wooden humpback

Commercial pine has a clearly defined zoning of wood in the form of annual growth rings; other conifers and many hardwoods also have it. On the saw cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. humpback in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in fig. in the center, then when rallying the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with humps alternately up and down, from below in fig. If the ridges are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with ridges in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the countertop does not split or warp.

Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue

A free means of protecting wood from decay is used motor oil, but for what they eat from, this is not the best option. Optimal will be 2-fold, with a break of 3-5 days, impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE), it will give protection to the table for the entire time of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with WPE is suitable for furniture front panels: it is also varnished on top and does not delaminate.

Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually falling into disuse: they are superior to water-based acrylic varnishes in all respects; in addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 on alcohol are inferior to PVA; however, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them tack-free before joining, and holding them under pressure for 1-3 days, but this is acceptable for home production.

Wood for furniture can be pre-tinted and protected with a stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same lacquer and artistic (not paint!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC lacquers and acrylic water-based for the same lacquer.

First, they prepare a “painting”: they take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it with continuous thorough stirring with a paintbrush. The coloring is stored in a tightly closed vial and added to the varnish to the desired tone; a test for it is done on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the rules for mixing oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.

The first steps

The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If 1-2 brick pallets remain from the construction site, then the pallet table will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.

From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, you get a garden table like a coffee table, on the left in fig. If there is a pair available, in just half an hour you can make a wall-mounted desktop-rack, in the center and on the right. Chains for it can also be woven yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop, a small tool is placed on a shelf of a wall pallet.

With a little more work, a collapsible cutting table for a summer residence is made from one pallet, which allows you to transfer the summer-autumn harvesting campaign to the street without littering with husks and without trampling on the stumps. For the winter this table is collected in a compact package. The construction is clear from Fig; a bucket is placed under the hatch in the tabletop.

The next in order of complexity is the well-known country table-goats, colloquially a goat. Its construction of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right - a country folding table on the same principle. It has swivel joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on the nails between the crossbars of the tabletop. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it will also go to a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the countertop can be made longer.

Finally, it also does not require special tools and skills for a gazebo table, see fig. below. Material - the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.

One step closer to art...

To advance in table building, now you need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. A table, in general, consists of a tabletop, its support frame, possibly with niches and / or mechanisms, or simply a plate - underframe - legs, and knots holding everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because. their fastening is the weakest point of the table.

Connections and legs

At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled on a quick-drying glue that does not require exposure: carpentry, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off hats are used to connect thin boards, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.

For dowels, a thin-layered tree is taken stronger than both connected parts, i.e. the hardest rocks. A pine table with birch legs can be joined on oak or beech dowels. On sale there are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels; before use, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, for example. inserts in sliding tables.

Legs for industrial tables are attached with detachable drawers, see fig. on right. Pos., marked in yellow - the simplest, cheapest and worst. With its shortcomings in the complete absence of advantages, buyers of Shiroptrebov's Soviet furniture are well aware, even if it remains there. Reliable, well-kept, except for the legs, and underframe boards, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require the least cost, but are quite laborious, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. Drawer side with shaped steel jib, top right in the figure, even stronger; in this way it is possible to fasten legs with a round head and in general any, however, purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel are required.

Note: legs are attached to the round table, as shown below in fig.

Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. In a small apartment with a narrow corridor, a table with legs is often simply impossible to push to the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments are more spacious, and in 1-story private houses the table can be served / given out the window, so in such cases, the strength and durability of the table with tightly fixed legs comes to the fore.

For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in fig. By the way, the tsargs are also one-piece: then the legs with dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the fibers of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that these 200-year-old tables can be fought by grabbing the leg.

Sufficiently high-quality tables on turned legs are assembled simply on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs of a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. So that they do not cling to the floor, you need to stuff the thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.

tabletop

The easiest, but not the cheapest way, is to order a countertop made of laminated chipboard (chipboard, laminate). Chipboard for countertops is available in the form of the so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m 20-60 mm thick with a decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the bottom face with a drip collector, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is quite environmentally friendly, no matter what gossip does not want to forget the co-furniture, which stank of phenol for months.

Postforming is well bought by small furniture enterprises. They always have his scraps; of them, they will gladly and for a very affordable price cut the tabletop to size, if the company has a jig saw. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be closed, i.e. cover the PVC end with a piping (edge). If you will be edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an awkward surcharge for edging), then keep in mind:

The upper and lower flanges of the edging have a different profile, see on the left in fig. Confuse - there will always be a piping of dirt on the table.
Kant must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the plate. It is possible to put on a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm plate, but it will soon slide off.
The groove for the crest of the edge must be selected with a manual disk cutter; saw, it seems that no one has yet succeeded as it should.
Before installing the edge, a thin layer of silicone sealant is applied to the end surface and the "sausage" is squeezed into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also be a lubricant, without which the ridge of the edge can simply be crushed.
The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop must lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately washed with a clean rag slightly moistened with table vinegar.

Plank tabletops are rallied in plank clips with wedges and spacers - wimahs. Wimes are quite possible to make yourself; You need 3-4 for a tabletop. Wym boards (cheeks) are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. On fig. for example - the process of manufacturing a round tabletop; rectangular rally in the same way, only cropping to size is easier. The shield is rallied onto the countertop with glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are grooved, dowels are not needed. When rallying to PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue is tacky before installation in the wyma.

Often, countertops are assembled without a wym on a plaza - a flat surface covered with plastic wrap. It will not work to assemble a good plank shield on the plaza: either it will come out slitted, or the boards will stand on end when assembled. But inlaid countertops from fragments are simply wonderful in skillful hands. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. - a tabletop made of sawing waste, tinted with wood stain. And on pos. 4-5, the base of the tabletop was the plaz itself made of thick plywood. The tile and its break are glued with tile adhesive, then the depressions are filled with grout for drinking, the surface is lacquered and the contour is edged with a wooden lath.

Note: these examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making do-it-yourself inlaid art tabletops.

Underframe

The underframe of the table with non-removable legs is a simple wooden frame, on the left in fig. Niches and details of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/sliding, or heavy operational loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffeners in the center. If the legs are fastened with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the table top, so that a single power circuit is obtained, on the right in fig.

no frame

Tables without underframes are also known, in which the tabletop with legs work in a single carrier system. Very durable, eg. plywood table on the left in pic; its connections are shkantovye. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will go one piece for large sidewalls, and 1 more for smaller ones. The table on the right is already quite possible to make with your own hands: the supporting frame is prefabricated; connections - in a spike with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the countertop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right angles.

... and get into the kitchen

Exactly. The table for the kitchen is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country ones. It must already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average completeness; the width of the seat for 1 eater / rider is 60-80 cm, depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.

All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of chipboard on metal legs; they are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in fig. Factory legs for tables, as a rule, are supplied with height-adjustable heels. The table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the nests of the legs with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% cheaper than the whole purchased one, but in appearance it will not yield, on the right in Fig.

If you are not too lazy to put your hands on it, steel legs can be made with your own hands. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of branded legs are cast from a rather fragile silumin, the fasteners weaken over time, they need to be tightened. You yourself can cut out nests from good steel, and weld your own legs into them.

The kitchen is more spacious, perhaps there is room for a larger table. In such a case - on the trail. rice. drawings of a kitchen table in a rustic style. "Rustic" this table is not only in appearance: it does not have a single nail and metal fasteners in general. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing such, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will have to rally the shields on the sidewalls, but in this case, the extra work is worth it.

Kruglyashi

A table with a round top is appropriate in any room, if it fits there. But a tabletop made of boards in this case is not the best option: due to the presence of sharp corners, it is subject to splitting without a frame, which is very complex and time-consuming. Type-setting countertops from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; unlike laminate rounds, they are decorative, stylish, unique, and practically free.

There are even more sharp corners in a small-type table top, but here the “broom law” works. Not the American senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion of it at home, but the broom with which they sweep the rubbish. As you know, it is impossible to break him (a broom, not a senator) tied up, and a child will break twig after twig. So here, due to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, the countertop made of them works like a solid plate, and you can cut it off after assembly even with the letter zyu.

Note: the idea of the broom senator, sorry, Venik, was suggested by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world-famous as Mark Twain: “I affirm, and undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more fantasies than a bull. But not the bull that lows in the pasture, but the one that is the support of the bridge.

How to make a semi-folding round table is shown in fig; on the right there are the dimensions of the countertop and the assembly order. And in fig. on the right above - a small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - a business card. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; glue assembly. Any kruglyash will go to the countertop, from sawing off a stump to a cardboard one, made according to the method of manufacturing cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (dvuhsotka board) or chipboard.

Moving on to the living room

The table in the main room of the house should be in line with the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves living space costs), the table should not be conspicuous for the time being, and take up less space. Therefore, one of the most sought-after pieces of furniture of our days has become a transforming table.

The simplest transformable table, which, with all its transformations, remains a table, and does not turn into a closet or bed - a bedside table; it is quite possible to make it with your own hands "from scratch". There are 2 most common options here. On the left in fig. - the table is deployable, it has a record ratio of occupied areas in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. By raising the wings one by one, you can get a kitchen or everyday dining table, and fully extended (in the center), it will provide a place for a rather crowded banquet.

A bachelor living in a small apartment is more suitable for a folding bedside table, on the right in fig. These are, in essence, 2 small round folding tables, described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch alone from it folded, because, unlike the previous version, there is where to put your legs. And having unrolled, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or sincere gatherings with friends.

All of the above qualities combine coffee-dining tables-transformers with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables that are always tables, they basically come down to 2 types: an elevator (pantograph) and a book. How one and the other work, see the video:

Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although much depends on the quality of execution. It is more popular among book lovers, because the mechanism-book can still be made independently, and the elevator outside the production environment is unlikely.

How the table-book is laid out is shown in stages in fig. on right. For its independent production, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. In fairly expensive branded designs, very soft gas dampers (gas lifts) are used, but it is better for an amateur to stop at a spring damper, and not because a gas lift is much more expensive.

The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the table top, underframe and the own weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened / loosened; replace as a last resort. In general, an unsuccessful home-made transforming table with gas lifts rarely manages to be “brought to mind”, and spring almost always. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in fig. - drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.

Without the availability of or access to drilling, turning and milling machines for metal, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. A factory-made transforming coffee table rarely costs less than $200, so even in this situation, the savings are significant.

The transformer table is made under the mechanism. One of the most popular are the Mazetti transformation mechanisms, due to their good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti movements are available in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. The rest of the pos. in fig. show the device and the dimensions of the table for this mechanism.

For a strong feast

Whatever you say, but in a normal family with children, friends and relatives, crowded gatherings at the table cannot do without, and here the transforming table will not always help out. However, we will leave more or less full banquet tables for the living room, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily because of the extension mechanism.

By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the halves of the table top (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable if properly executed, in addition to this, they can be made by yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern sliding mechanisms with telescopic full extension guides, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the capacity of the table by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description of no less voluminous.

There are banquet tables with clamshell inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when sliding / sliding the halves of the tabletop, the insert raises, unfolds and puts in place or puts back in the underframe a very complex mechanism, but its manual versions are available for home production.

As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in a computer desk, they cannot be called popular by any means: leaning forward (and how to avoid this if the house is without servants?), We get the board back into the underframe, and our portion of treats - for festive clothes.

But let's not talk about sad things. Recall that the table is not always pushed apart, and you can use the side table, but the whole table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of drawings below - a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and how it looks "live" - see the left in fig. at the beginning.

In addition

A table, and indeed any furniture, often wants to be painted not just with stripes or artistically painted. To protect the drawing from external influences and to ensure the possibility of updating the varnish if necessary, the paints should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by layer-by-layer rubbing of paints is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on wood glazing.

Video: wood glazing master class

There are no such owners who would not like to furnish their home with stylish, beautiful, practical furniture. One of the elements of the interior, which cannot be dispensed with in any home, is a table. Despite the wide selection of these products, many home craftsmen try to make a round table with their own hands, because this way you can be sure that the product will fit perfectly into the interior. This solution has its pros and cons associated with some process difficulties.

A round table is an excellent option for creating a comfortable environment in the kitchen, living room, children's room, veranda, gazebo. The absence of corners eliminates the possibility of bruises, contributes to an atmosphere of comfort and intimacy. However, it should be remembered that such a piece of furniture will not fit into every interior.

If you have the skills to handle household tools, patience and attentiveness, making a round table is not difficult at all.

The decision to make a round table out of wood yourself has the following advantages:

Saving the family budget. Factory products are much more expensive. The added value is several times higher than the price of raw materials. The cost of making a round table with your own hands includes only the purchase of wood and fasteners.
Choice of model. It is not always possible to find the right product in stores. Self-design, assembly allow you to compile elements of different models, creating your own unique version.
Choice of size, configuration. Furniture is made for a room with a certain shape and a limited area. Sometimes the rooms are so small that not a single factory thing fits in them. The way out is a portable round table to the kitchen with your own hands.
Getting the necessary experience. Having assembled a very complex structure, the home master will be able to develop further, bringing new projects to life.

The downside is that it is quite difficult for beginners to make a round tabletop on their own. In addition, there is a need to purchase special tools, without which it is impossible to obtain perfectly even edges.

Family budget savings

Choice of model

Choice of size, configuration

Getting the necessary experience

Popular Designs

To make a round table with your own hands, various ideas are used that can be gleaned from magazines, thematic pages on the net, by visiting furniture stores. The most popular designs today are:

Coffee table. As a rule, such items are made in multi-tiered design with open shelves. Their walls simultaneously serve as legs.
Kitchen table. Well suited for small spaces where there is a free corner. Sloping edges allow you to freely move a piece of furniture around the room. If necessary, a sliding shelf for appliances is installed.
Dining. A large wooden round table will fit perfectly into the interior of the living room, which has a square shape. The product will look especially good against the background of cabinet furniture made of solid wood.
Folding. A do-it-yourself oval table with folding tops is an indispensable solution for small apartments. When assembled, it takes up little space, in working condition it can accommodate a large number of guests.

When developing a scheme for how to make a round table with your own hands, you should consider not only its dimensions, but also the configuration of the space under the table top. Presentability, stability, ease of use of the product depend on its design.

Magazine

Kitchen

Dining

Folding

The underframe of a round table can be like this:

4 legs. A classic that has stood the test of time. The advantage is that such furniture is stable and easy to use. People do not need to think about where to attach their legs, as there is enough space for this.
With jumper. This design of the table is practical, durable, easy to manufacture. The disadvantage is that the knees of those sitting will constantly rest against the crossbar.
Crosshairs. This model is more suitable for rooms decorated in country style. Sitting at such a table will be moderately comfortable.
One pole with cross or disc. The furniture looks spectacular and takes up little space due to its compactness. Stability is achieved by mounting a heavy wide base. Otherwise, a homemade round table on one leg will constantly tip over.
Modern developments. Curvilinear supports, diverging from below and from above, come into fashion. Comfortable and practical models, in which the legs are connected by a threshold, which makes the sitting process more comfortable.

Priority is given to projects that best match the interior of the room where the furniture will be located.

4 legs

with jumper

One pole with cross

Crosshairs

Modern developments

Material selection

When choosing a material for the manufacture of a round table, it is necessary to take into account the following criteria:

strength;
durability;
ease of processing;
moisture resistance;
beauty and attractiveness;
compatibility with the interior;
own abilities and skills.

For different parts of the table, you can use the same or different material. It all depends on the taste preferences of the owner and the initial project.

for countertop

There are such options for making a round table:

Wood. The massif of a pine, an oak, a beech, an ash-tree is used. The raw material is easily amenable to all types of processing, has a presentable appearance. Finished products organically fit into any interior, both indoors and outdoors. The downside is that wood is susceptible to moisture, insects and mechanical damage.
Chipboard. For manufacturing, it is better to take laminated boards, which are durable, affordable cost. The disadvantage of finished tables is the loose structure of the material, in which self-tapping screws do not hold well.
Monolithic polycarbonate. The material is beautiful, very strong, but easily scratched and melted from contact with hot objects.
Plywood. A round plywood table is made of a waterproof material with a thickness of at least 16 mm. The plates are durable, with a beautiful surface, but sensitive to moisture.
Metal. Strong and resistant to all types of impact base. The downside is that working with stainless steel requires special tools and professional skills.

For a round table top, it is advisable to choose materials that fit well into the environment. So, glass, chipboard and solid wood are suitable for the kitchen. When making a table for a gazebo, it is better to stay on plastic or metal. Such products without consequences will endure changes in humidity and temperature. We should not forget about the aesthetic side of the issue. Putting practicality and durability first, it is easy to lose in design. However, here you can find a golden mean using various surface decor options.

Wood

Chipboard

Monolithic polycarbonate

Plywood

Metal

For foundation

The best choice for a round table would be metal, which is almost impossible to damage. Depending on the place where the round table will be installed, the choice is made among the following materials:

profile pipe. Products from black, galvanized, stainless steel or aluminum are used.
Corrugated fittings. Inexpensive and durable raw materials that must be regularly cleaned and treated against corrosion.
Water pipes. The advantage is that ready-made shaped parts can be used to connect them.

The next in strength will be solid wood with a cross section of 20 mm or more and chipboard with a thickness of at least 12 mm. It is better to connect panels with bolts, nuts with wide washers. Self-tapping screws do not provide a sufficient margin of safety. Plywood should be discarded, as it bends even under small loads. The exception is light coffee tables that do not experience a lot of stress.

As for the base for the round table, here strength should come first, and convenience and presentability should come second.

profile pipe

corrugated reinforcement

Water pipes

solid wood

Plywood

Tools and fasteners

To make a round table from wood, you will need the following tools:

roulette;
level;
hacksaw;
drill;
screwdrivers;
compass;
miter box;
Grinder;
pencil;
clamps.

If you plan to work with metal, then you need to purchase a grinder, welding machine, electrodes. In addition, a steel disk and iron rods are useful for assembly.

To make a wooden round table with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

steel corners;
self-tapping screws;
boards 20 mm with selected edges;
timber 50 x 50 mm;
wood glue;
furniture varnish;
stain;
edge tape;
acrylic paint;
antiseptic.

When drilling and grinding, it is advisable to use a gauze bandage, goggles. To ensure the safety of manufacturing a round wooden table, you must purchase powder and foam fire extinguishers in advance, which can be used to extinguish fires if they occur during operation.

Dimensioning and drawing preparation

The beginning of making a round table with your own hands is to determine its dimensions and configuration. The strength, stability, practicality of the product depends on the correctness of the calculations. The basis for the calculations are the following criteria:

the total area of the premises;
the presence of other furniture, the place of its installation;
purpose of the subject;
leg height;
configuration;
the optimal size to meet the assigned tasks.

It is necessary to think over so that even on the most beautiful round table you can easily arrange a set of dishes for the whole family. In this case, it is desirable to provide a reserve for 1-2 guests.

After that, design documentation is prepared, where the dimensions, diameters of the holes, the distance between the parts are drawn. Detailed detailing will allow you to perform work with a high degree of accuracy. Drawings can be done both on paper and on a computer. The choice is determined by individual skills and experience in carrying out similar work.

Master class on creating a round table made of wood

Making, assembling a round table with your own hands should be carried out in a well-ventilated area on a flat and clean surface. A bucket, broom and dustpan should be prepared in advance to keep the work area clean throughout the assembly process. If you plan to use strong-smelling and toxic substances, then it is necessary to warn family members about this, isolate pets.

Fire safety measures should also be taken into account. To extinguish a fire, you need to prepare a container with water and a powder fire extinguisher to eliminate possible ignitions of electrical appliances and tools. We should not forget about our own health. During work, injury is not excluded. To provide first aid, you need to have a first aid kit with a set of necessary tools and medicines on hand. The emergency phone must be in a visible place.

Manufacturing and assembly

The manufacturing process of a round table consists of the following steps:

Impregnation of the material with an antiseptic. After that, the wood should dry completely.
Treatment of workpieces with a hydrophobic agent. Drying oil is well suited for this.
Sawing boards into fragments of the desired length. Lubrication of the grooves with glue, alternately attaching new segments. Fixing the shield made with clamps. To increase the strength, several rails can be screwed on the underside.
Table cutting. The contour of the circle or oval of the table is made using a compass or twine with a pencil. Then all the excess is cut off.
Attaching the legs to the center of the shield with metal corners.
Production of jumpers in the amount of 8 pieces. Sawing is carried out at an angle of 45 degrees.
Assembly of a cross with sides equal to the diameter of the tabletop.
Attaching the cross to the leg with steel corners.
Screwing jumpers to the bottom of the tabletop, cross.

At this stage, the assembly is completed. You can proceed to the final processing of the finished product. If desired, the table is decorated according to your own taste.

Cut boards to desired length

Lubricate the grooves with glue, alternately attach new segments

Fix the made shield with clamps

Cut out the countertop

Insert the tabletop into the frame

Trim the frame

Cut jumpers

Assemble crosses

Attach cross to leg

Screw jumpers

Finishing

Finishing includes the following steps:

Made parts are processed by a grinding machine. The final polishing is carried out with a zero sandpaper. The quality of work is checked visually and tactilely. The finished surface should be smooth, without protruding parts.
Putty. During or before processing, holes, chips and cracks may form on the table top. They need to be sealed with a special wood putty, silicone or putty.
The product is dust free. Depending on the chosen design, the wood is stained or fired with a blowtorch.
The table is finished with paint or varnish. To achieve an even, durable layer, apply 2-3 layers.
End tape is attached. For fixing, use an adhesive that is resistant to temperature and humidity changes.

In conclusion, additional elements are installed - shelves, sills, forged ornaments.

Clean the product, cover with stain

Paint the product

Lacquer

Finished table

creative ideas

To give housing more originality and attractiveness, non-standard approaches to the manufacture of furniture are used. You can use one of the following ideas:

Bottoms made of boards from giant decommissioned barrels. The existing inscriptions only emphasize the interesting history of the product. The lower edges of the tables can be equipped with thresholds made of iron staples or chopped wood.
Saw cut trunks of large diameter. Their edges may be rounded or remain with the bark. A wild tree looks very good in gazebos, on verandas and in the hallways of country houses.
Coils from the power cable. Products are comfortable, large, stable. They just need finishing touches. Service inscriptions add originality.
Solid wood carved. The holes made are filled with epoxy. It looks very unusual.

The round table helps to create an atmosphere of intimacy in the house. And if it is made by hand, it will surely become a favorite of all family members. Exclusive design will help to give the room individuality and unique style.

Video

A photo

Since ancient times, round tables have been considered a symbol of equality and unification of all those present. The round table is easy to use and practical - there are no problems and questions about who will sit on the corner. Massive oak tables are luxurious pieces of furniture, but they are not always convenient for daily use.

The round table is usually made of oak or pine.

A great option is to make a folding round table with your own hands, which can be adjusted in size and folded from time to time so that it does not take up space in a small room.

How to make a round table for the house?

To prepare the table shape, you need the following materials and tools:

ruler;
pencil;
scissors;
glue;
large compass;
whatman.

The material from which the table will be made can be absolutely any. If you are new to this business, you can use coniferous wood, and if you have already dealt with wood and know how to work extremely accurately and efficiently, use oak or mahogany.

We connect several large sheets (whatman paper) with PVA glue. Now, with the help of a compass, we draw a circle of the desired size.

If you do not have a suitable compass, you can use any round element or make a compass from 2 bars or sticks by attaching a pencil to one of them and an awl (or any sharp object) to the other.

When you have a smooth drawing, cut off any excess paper (don't throw it away, you'll still need it!). We fold the resulting circle in half 4 times so that the circle is divided into 8 small triangles. Now we retreat 5-6 cm from the bases of the triangles and connect the points with straight lines along the entire circumference.

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